what are the bumps on the spine of the knife for? it doesn't look like a saw......
1765733
Those are actually used for the fire starter stick. You basically strike the stick against those bumps quickly and it creates a spark which is what will help start your fire. Hope this helps.
1765734
It's called jimping, it's there for grip for your thumb. Not to be used as a saw.
1765735
As far as I can tell they are there from thumb grip purposes, as in when you push down to cut something and have your thumb on the spine. Also can be used with the firestarter if you end up keeping it..
1765736
for the flint sparker...scraping the part of the knife on the flint stick will create the spark to start your fires...beware,,i did not recieve green sheath or cord wrap..mine was all black....
1765737
those are called Jibbing and the purpose is to grant greater grip/slip resistance. you put your thumb there
1606046
lol I don't know but the same things happened to me.... the knife works great!
203516
I'm sorry, I'm not familiar with that type of knife and I don't want to give you bad information.
209894
Just a transition area between the flat back of the blade and the false edge. Just makes it a little different then the next model. Nice knife. Good steel. Great price. I just bought a second one. Mike Cummings
2205613
It's a folder....not a fixed blade so probably nothing in regular production. You could try www.phlster.com. They do some custom stuff (usually by walk in) and they're in Philly.
1394579
The knife dose not come with BC mounting means. You could probably improvise with plastic cable ties.
983367
That knife was not designed for that, but the I can recommend the K-Bar plus a very durable machete, if you are having those kinds of problems.
2279418
doesn't look like it. At least it isn't shown in the picture. The blade sits on the stem which I can see.
352476
There is a small white plastic piece that covers the edge of the blade. It pushes out to expose the blade...its a safety feature.
1345381
To me its got the feel of a butterfly knife, and it looks like a stiletto knife, and with the little piece it opens almost the same speed like a switchblade I think. I really like it but is the blade suppose to have a wobble in it if not then I need to get it fixed.
816692
Technically, the blade design is a combination rip and cross-cut. However, it is optimized for joinery work. If you need to use it for work other than joinery, you can use it with the spine brace attached to keep the blade straight and cut a fair bit in, then remove the spine brace so the blade can continue cutting with the spine going below the surface of the wood. If you try to make any cut starting without the spine brace attached you will end up with a complete mess and it will be very difficult to work.
1795969
Its foam. It comes with two layers. It wont form to the shape of the knife. Take out the second layer if you plan on sticking thicker knifes like a benchmade grip
1958801
The blade has an unusual coating; almost looks like a weird sort of 1075 Carbon/Damascus steel thing going on. It definitely is not a black coat, so I suppose it is more of a rustic version, but I guess that would depend on ones version of rustic. It really is a beautiful yet simple looking throwback type of chopping knife. I apologize if my answer seems a bit vague. It's about the best I can answer though. Take care.
586596
It's a prying tool as opposed to a cutting tool. The tool is already dull out of the box as there is no need for sharpness.
399117
the tip of the blade is a stright angle cut. there is a slight curve to the over-all blade.
1405793
The clip point is sharpened on the other side of the blade, while its not as sharp as the cutting edge of the blade I believe its purpose is for opening cans as well as to aid in driving the blade into certain thin gauge metals. The saw back on the blade is meant for cutting through rope and sheet metal, it was never intended for wood sawing like some may think when first seeing this knife. One thing I would like to add is the knife is easy to sharpen. Great knife for the price you pay.
163218
Are you talking about the side of the knife, as opposed to the actual edge itself ? If so, I have noticed a scratch on two of my knives: it is a line that follows the curve of the edge, about 3/8 to 1/2 inch above the edge, on the right side if the blade, looking at it from the top as you hold the knife in your right hand. I'm guessing that one of the sharpening wheels is not exactly aligned. Until you asked this question, I had not noticed. That I did not notice is due to the fact that I occasionally clean my knives with a yellow/green abrasive sponge, so the sides are mildly scratched anyway. I only use this device if the blade has gotten pretty dull, which in my household is so rare that of my 20+ knives, I've only used it on the two aforementioned knives. ( it's rare because I steel my knives everyday, always cut on wood, and once per month I "steel" them on a ceramic rod. The dullness that I mentioned came from friends "helping" me in the kitchen, and using the knives on a porcelain plate. I just about dropped dead ! Ha ! ). The 464 certainly worked to put the edge back on, but it is rough on the blades. After using the 464, I then used a polishing steel to smooth out the actual edge itself. But, I'm afraid the scratching is inevitable. The only solution that I know is to find the guy in town who professionally sharpens the local restaurant knives. I found this person in San Antonio, and he can put a fabulous edge on the knife, and buff the sides if you want. He charges about $1.00 per inch ( so my 8 inch chef''s knife cost me about $8.00. Hope this helps, and good luck. Bill