I bought a four foot piece of 5/8 x 5/8 Square Steel Tubing to stabilize a yard address sign. Do i deed to clean before using self etching primer?
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Hello Bill, To use any primer or paint, you have to clean the metal. Most new metal has at least traces of manufacturing oil on it. This will ruin your paint job even before it's finished. Clean the metal with a strong dishwashing liquid and rinse well with hot water. If you don't have compressed air, at least get as much water out of the inside as possible, then dry off the tube with a clean towel. The make sure that the first inch of the inside is dry so the paint on the edges is not affected by water. Then Prime. The thorough cleaning is very important. Hope that helps! Joe
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Yes, I had good luck doing that with this. It's good at bonding surfaces that are different. I'd use rubbing alcohol on the surfaces first to clean them.
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I'm assuming you will apply the POR15 with a brush. The etching will definitely affect the adjacent exterior paint. You will want to build a ledge along the bottom of the corroded area using masking tape and cardboard to catch the metal prep. Take care to keep the corroded area wet, but not so much it flows onto the exterior paint. Once the area is etched with the metal prep the water will neutralize the acid of the metal prep. Dry thr area thoroughly and brush on the POR 15. Randy in Wichita
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I used a knife blade and scraped it almost perpendicular across the label. Goof off or other products didn't work very well for me. Any flat metal edge tool scraped down it will remove it faster. A paint scraper or the side of the edge of a screwdriver would work, I used my pocket knife. I cleaned the remaining glue off with acetone. The label will soak off inside the waterheater if you don't remove it. It would probably remain at the bottom of the heater until you drained/flushed the heater but it might make it into the water lines and find it's way to an aerator screen at a faucet and plug it up requiring removal to clean it off. I used a knife blade and scraped it almost perpendicular across the label. Goof off or other products didn't work very well for me. Any flat metal edge tool scraped down it will remove it faster. A paint scraper or the side of the edge of a screwdriver would work, I used my pocket knife. I cleaned the remaining glue off with acetone. The label will soak off inside the waterheater if you don't remove it. It would probably remain at the bottom of the heater until you drained/flushed the heater but it might make it into the water lines and find it's way to an aerator screen at a faucet and... » Read More I used a knife blade and scraped it almost perpendicular across the label. Goof off or other products didn't work very well for me. Any flat metal edge tool scraped down it will remove it faster. A paint scraper or the side of the edge of a screwdriver would work, I used my pocket knife. I cleaned the remaining glue off with acetone. The label will soak off inside the waterheater if you don't remove it. It would probably remain at the bottom of the heater until you drained/flushed the heater but it might make it into the water lines and find it's way to an aerator screen at a faucet and plug it up requiring removal to clean it off. « Show Less
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Rust reformer dries flat black and acts as your primer. Clean all loose rust and flakes first (wire brush) for a good smooth result. I was very happy with this product and my results!
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It will have to be a trial and error process I'm sure. I put on two thin coats and let it sit for twenty minutes. Then I rinse it off and do it a second time the same way. Sometimes, depending on the type of glass, I may have to apply a third time (but this is very rare). I like a heavier etch, however. For a light etch, one time is plenty.
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I did not use any primer I just add the red loctite and that was it due allow for it to cure properly make sure the material is free of oils or grease
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The new bullet proof allows you to spray the product on to the surface you are sealing. However I have found that putting it into a container, then using a sponge, apply to the surface. Let dry and then whip with a small amount on a good quality paper towel as to buff the surface. The last can be repeated to even out the sealer. Wait 24 hours then use. This is a very good product if applied properly. If spraying you might want to apply twice. Note darker stones do not need a sealer. This product will not stop etching, and anything can penetrate the surface if left on for more than 12 hours.
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Per Radon user manual (available ontheir website).... No"The concrete must be completely clean and bare. Remove all paints, sealers, adhesives, curing or form releasecompounds. Clean off dirt, oil, grease, wax, efflorescence, and other contaminants that might interfere withpenetration of the sealer.Make sure that the substrate is porous. Confirm that it readily absorbs drops of water or apply the sealer in a test area. If needed, increase the surface porosity by sanding, grinding, or acid etching."
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Definitely clean it. Any paint can only adhere to whatever is beneath it. You want it adhering to concrete, not algae.
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I would be careful and tread lightly with an SOS pad. Probably it wouldn't hurt, especially if you didn't exert a lot of pressure, but if you scratch the surface, that area will always be a sticking point, as well as a place for rust to start. I've never found an SOS to be necessary. I always grease, butter or spray my pan, and if something does stick, I let it soak a little while, then use a plastic scrubber, and it always comes right off. Happy roasting!
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You can use a Big Box exterior primer. Roll on with small roller where it will contact.
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Keep in mind, a factory finish can not be duplicated! All aluminum cleaners etch or bleach the surface. The issues of aluminum whiting can be reduced by how you reduce product with water (5/1 or 3/1 etc.). Add most important rinsing the foam activation off from top to bottom before foam bigins to dry. I highly recommend starting at 3/1, test on a blind area, rinse foam when it's still wet. Additionally, preperation, a good mix and having everything ready including enough product mixed consistently, unwanted areas covered and either a good garden nozzle or preferably a pressue washer ready for rising off foam before drying. Keep in mind, a factory finish can not be duplicated! All aluminum cleaners etch or bleach the surface. The issues of aluminum whiting can be reduced by how you reduce product with water (5/1 or 3/1 etc.). Add most important rinsing the foam activation off from top to bottom before foam bigins to dry. I highly recommend starting at 3/1, test on a blind area, rinse foam when it's still wet. Additionally, preperation, a good mix and having everything ready including enough product mixed consistently, unwanted areas covered and either a good garden nozzle or preferably a pressue washer ready... » Read More Keep in mind, a factory finish can not be duplicated! All aluminum cleaners etch or bleach the surface. The issues of aluminum whiting can be reduced by how you reduce product with water (5/1 or 3/1 etc.). Add most important rinsing the foam activation off from top to bottom before foam bigins to dry. I highly recommend starting at 3/1, test on a blind area, rinse foam when it's still wet. Additionally, preperation, a good mix and having everything ready including enough product mixed consistently, unwanted areas covered and either a good garden nozzle or preferably a pressue washer ready for rising off foam before drying. « Show Less
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To be on the safe side, I would suggest using some sort of release (thin film...residual amount... of Vaseline should be fine). You could always do a small test piece before you cast your actual project.
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I keep a jar filled with mineral spirits and just spray it through the sprayer when I'm done painting. Probably overkill for latex paint but at least I'm sure there isn't any residue left. When I first got the critter I tried to be sure the whole thing was clean. Now I only ensure the tube, the tip and the hole in the lid are clear. GarryG is right about the cork gasket. I ended up getting some heavy duty gasket sheet from the auto parts store and made my own gaskets. They're not as fragile and I've always got a spare if I need it.
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You have to use some kind of metal prep I used a pint of muratic acid from the hardware store it worked fine you just need to rinse very well and then dry and treat quickly before the metal has time to oxidize
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I followed the instructions from a DIY web site, I only sanded the tub one time with 220 and a second time with 400. Then I cleaned the tub with Lime away using a scrubbing pad. This gave me a good surface to work with. Don't know about the design my tub is plain.