RV users...if this is hard-wired and batteries go dead...how's this going to work? Would a battery operated one be a better choice?
1765105
It will not work if battery is dead but a low battery alarm sounds from the detector which is very annoying and you will know to charge your battery.
1765106
That is a good point, but I rarely have a dead battery in my trailer (solar) and I do have a battery alarm when the voltage gets low. And I don't have to worry about changing a battery on the monitor when it goes bad. Good luck with your research.
1765107
No then you forgot to replace the batteries, easy to install , had no problems
1765108
Depends on your system. This unit feeds off my aux battery system. Would take a lot to kill that, and if it did, my alarm kicks on at any voltage lower than 11. But if it did 'go dead', I do not believe that this has an internal battery source.
1765109
All RVs Alarms are wired using there 12 volt coach battery. If your RV battery is dead your LP safety Solenoid wont turn on any of the LP appliances. the MTI-742 is a 12 volt unit. Hope this helps
1765110
Hard wired with battery back up by your rv battery..as for which one to choose that is your choice...most hard wired like this model should be replaced every 5 years..told to us by rv dealer and explained in the directions.
875773
I powered it up on my bench with a bench supply. There is no reason that a 12 volt battery pack would not work. Pay attn to + and -. Not sure how long it would last. You would have to look a the current draw of the desplay.
840634
well, that was the only bad thing. not sure why but I got mine an adaptador and it wouldn't work. so, We only use batteries. they have lasted but make sure to not leave it on. my son tend to leave it on and I always have to check and turn it off.
1308636
This unit is powerful enough to keep several batteries charged depending on the sun. You will need a good battery bank, a power inverter with enough watts to power your stereo, lights, and a power tool. The answer is yes it will work depending on your batteries, and what type of drain you put on them during off sun hours. I use mine on an RV, it keeps my two large deep cycle batteries up, and also powers a 750 watt inverter when needed.
2088318
I would buy a crap ton of batteries as they drain out if you leave the little on/off switch in the on position. Just remember to turn it off after each use and it should last as long as anything else.
592385
I actually attached mine to my DC to AC inverter that is wired to my 12 volt battery. I soldered an "eye" type of connector on the end of the wires that come off the controller. I also attached the wires with the standard solar clips just like the ones provided in the kit that they provide. It was just for convenience to un-hook my system at the RV compartment for easy set-up and take down when traveling. One other item of note, put a 10 amp fuse both before and after the controller. This protects both the controller and the system.
1080159
My application was not on the battery post. There are other units available for that type of application. I used it on my rv to keep the battery from draining when not in use. It works well and I installed it "in line" in the same manner you would wire a light switch.
1425003
This device is expected to be installed in an RV, in a sheltered location and supply 12V at (usually) 30 amps through a fuse panel supplying power to 12V lights, water pump as well as 3-stage battery charging. It is microprocessor controlled, and I really don't know if it will work without a battery detected. Assuming it will, you would need a fuse or circuit breaker for protection at the maximum expected power demand of the lift. I'd run the lift from a battery charged by this.
1409046
I don`t know RV regulations but this is battery operated and will work "wherever you install it" by their instructions which are included. Will last around 6 years before sensor may fail and it will signal you when that happens.
107974
Hard wired....don't know where it says battery powered, but there's no battery anywhere
2030748
Most vehicles use a negative ground. In general, when servicing a battery, you should always disconnect the ground side first. That way, if your wrench slips and you hit part of the vehicle, you'll just be connecting the ground side of the battery to the ground of the vehicle, which causes no harm. If you slipped when loosening the positive post, and the ground was still connected, you could connect the positive terminal of the battery to the ground, which would cause arcing, or worse. So, because of that safety issue, people always disconnect the ground side first, and switches like this are usually placed on the ground side. Disconnecting either battery terminal will stop the battery from charging, since you no longer have a complete circuit through the battery. If you leave your RV plugged in constantly, and leave the battery connected continuously, be sure that your RV's battery charger is well regulated. (Although, perhaps that's why you wanted this switch in the first place-to prevent your charger from overcharging the RV battery.) Handy Bob's Blog, HandyBobSolar, has a big page of good information about RV battery charging. It's the page entitled "The RV Battery Charging Puzzle". I think I'm not allowed to insert links here, so you'll need to Google for it. Handy Bob says the biggest problem with typical RV converters is that some of them never get the batteries fully charged, even if left plugged in 24 hrs/day. Handy Bob goes on to suggest buying a large automotive battery charger, one that puts out 25 amps, and use that a few hours each day. That sounds like overcharging to me, but he's the authority here. Personally, I use a smart charger to top off my batteries, and I generally disconnect them from the vehicle before charging, and it's a low-amperage charger, as well. Mine's the 7 Amp NOCO Genius charger, and I think it's sufficient, but I'm only charging medium-sized batteries one at a time.
50646
I'll ask my husband (not here right now), but my thought is that if the transformer dies, do you really want it hard wired? That's what happened with our previous lights. The lights were fine but the transformer died.
1664452
It is designed to be hardwired. I wired it with a 30a, 10ga generator cord and plug to make it more portable if needed.
1315313
powered by batteries - but mine came with dead, OLD and corroded batteries already installed, only worked a few times and died
1076455
I agree with the above answers. The question is; will the sensor and electronics hold up with the temperature swings that RV's can have while in storage. After reading the reviews I think this one is worth a try. The RV approved brand that came with our travel trailer has the worst reviews and has failed.
908579
Not sure what you are asking, but if your RV has a 30 amp plug I suggest you consider the 30 amp model. That way you don't have to use an adaptor. I have to use a 50 to 30 adaptor sometimes if the RV park does not have 50 amp service. It works just fine in that case.
1210961
I have found most battery operated appliances and tools are underpowered and the batteries short-lived. I seem to go with a cord whenever possible.