How is this different from simply using an expandable curtain rod through the sleeve and hooking it over a nail in the wall?
1734433
This item only has one nail hole in the middle -- very difficult to get a quilt to hang level (teeter totter effect). I think an expandable curtain rod with a nail (or holder) on each end would work better.
502949
The bracket extends 4.5" from the wall. The outer part of the outer rod is 4" from the wall with the center of the outer rod centering at 3.75" from the wall which is where your curtains/valance will sit from the wall when hung. I would definitely recommend this to anyone as it's pretty sturdy. I currently have a sheer curtain on the inner rod and a fairly thick cotton valance hanging on the outer rod. Looks fantastic and the rod holds in place by the ball ends which are screwed into each the end of the rod... which I feel is a great design feature and keeps the rod from sliding out of place. The bracket extends 4.5" from the wall. The outer part of the outer rod is 4" from the wall with the center of the outer rod centering at 3.75" from the wall which is where your curtains/valance will sit from the wall when hung. I would definitely recommend this to anyone as it's pretty sturdy. I currently have a sheer curtain on the inner rod and a fairly thick cotton valance hanging on the outer rod. Looks fantastic and the rod holds in place by the ball ends which are screwed into each the end of the rod... which I feel is a great design feature and keeps the rod from... » Read More The bracket extends 4.5" from the wall. The outer part of the outer rod is 4" from the wall with the center of the outer rod centering at 3.75" from the wall which is where your curtains/valance will sit from the wall when hung. I would definitely recommend this to anyone as it's pretty sturdy. I currently have a sheer curtain on the inner rod and a fairly thick cotton valance hanging on the outer rod. Looks fantastic and the rod holds in place by the ball ends which are screwed into each the end of the rod... which I feel is a great design feature and keeps the rod from sliding out of place. « Show Less
2019365
The method is an upside down V screwed into the piece being hung, which rests into an angled piece that is fastened onto the wall, wall/. Almost flush result, perhaps a 1/16 out based on metal bend/thickness and how true the wall is. If important, a felt pad would likely absorb the difference. Go for it. Cheap enough and good for 200 or so pounds....
746461
Before putting the rod up, slide the curtains on first then attach the end to the bracket.
2144906
The pulley bracket is mounted to the wall at the bottom of the curtain or blinds. The cord from the blinds or curtains is then fed through the pulley in order to keep the cord from becoming loose. Not sure what rod you are talking about.
995010
It basically allows the item your hanging to hug the wall. I refinished an old door and hung it as a headboard using two of these and there is no gap between the wall and the door.
242102
You screw it to the wall at both ends. There are two rods. The rod on the inside I bought hooks for (separately) for drapes that had loops. The rod on the outside I put a valance which had a hole from end to end. The rods are very weak. We had to put supports in the middle to keep it from sagging which worked for us since we were just using the drapes for a boarder around our projector screen. Our drapes were also heavy.
1603509
I pull a 6 ft grommeted black out curtain across this rod without a middle bracket. I suspect a lined drape could bow the rod.
522871
I had a similar idea for hanging mine, and spent a lot of time walking the aisles at Home Depot for ideas. In the end I hung it in a less desirable location where the opening was flush. I used ikea window curtain hanging hardware and rods because that's what I had on hand. It is far from ideal, but it does ok at dampening the noise and is reasonably easy to pull up from a lower part of one side and hook to a hole on the other side. Can't really slide it open because it's too thick. The trickiest thing I have found is trying to find ways to get it to be as flush with the wall as possible, because that's what will make the biggest difference for noise. I have yet to find a good way to hang it (I have one over a hallway opening, and another over a window) that is both easily moveable when needed but also holds it up against the wall so that there is a seal. I guess that isn't an answer other than to say that it is not easy to work with these or hang them.... But certainly worth it for what it is. It is the best non-permanent sound dampening thing I have found.
1523491
I do not think it can be done because the curtain snaps over the rod and you wouldn't be able to open or close it
1777120
My first instinct was to say, no, not without compromising the structure. But I just went and looked at mine and I think it could be done. The bracket that is mounted in the wall is two separate pieces, and while I'm not going to try to yank one of the rods out (my husband doesn't need any more reasons to question my sanity) they don't appear to be riveted, the ends are in plastic cup-like holders that look like they're part of the frame. If you had a good cutting tool and were handy it might be possible. I think I'd just buy some cheap expandable curtain rods, though, and see if that would work before I spent the money and chanced wrecking the rack. It really is a nice rack, though, for the money. My first instinct was to say, no, not without compromising the structure. But I just went and looked at mine and I think it could be done. The bracket that is mounted in the wall is two separate pieces, and while I'm not going to try to yank one of the rods out (my husband doesn't need any more reasons to question my sanity) they don't appear to be riveted, the ends are in plastic cup-like holders that look like they're part of the frame. If you had a good cutting tool and were handy it might be possible. I think I'd just buy some cheap expandable curtain rods, though, and see if that would... » Read More My first instinct was to say, no, not without compromising the structure. But I just went and looked at mine and I think it could be done. The bracket that is mounted in the wall is two separate pieces, and while I'm not going to try to yank one of the rods out (my husband doesn't need any more reasons to question my sanity) they don't appear to be riveted, the ends are in plastic cup-like holders that look like they're part of the frame. If you had a good cutting tool and were handy it might be possible. I think I'd just buy some cheap expandable curtain rods, though, and see if that would work before I spent the money and chanced wrecking the rack. It really is a nice rack, though, for the money. « Show Less
324993
I live in an apt as well. It attaches using a tension type rod like many shower curtains use. Definitely no permanent damage with it.
974011
We used a cable curtain rod (sold through Amazon). (Look it up on Amazon's site.) My wife simply hemmed the material top and bottom, after sewing the panels together to create enough length. It all fits nicely behind our exesting drapes. This proved an excellent solution for our southern exposure room.
1254771
It is not a huge box and it is actually a rather small rod. IF you extend it all the way? you will need to support it in the center. I am using it for a curtain rod. NOT all the way extended and not heavy curtains but I needed to support it in the center. My point was NOT to drill holes anywhere.
370675
I use curtain rings that can be removed with out dismantling the rod. I would not want to dismantle the rod to change the curtain.
1843047
yes it comes with a sleeve and can be used for through the wall installation.
1975343
i am not a professional installer.. what i would do is cut a small slit on the back side of the curtain and buy a corner support which is like a hook with along body that screws into the wall...then slip the hook into the fabric pocket under the rod and that should do it. hope that helps