Since you can input only one line voltage, will you get erroneous power consumption displayed since most houses have items that run off of 110V and others off of 220V? Power(watts) = current times voltage. Since you can input only one line voltage, will you get erroneous power consumption displayed since most houses have items that run off of 110V and others off of 220V? Power(watts) = current times... » Read More Since you can input only one line voltage, will you get erroneous power consumption displayed since most houses have items that run off of 110V and others off of 220V? Power(watts) = current times voltage. « Show Less
1751164
No Problem. The system monitors both incoming mains. 120V devices run off one of these, plus the neutral. Their consumption is monitored by the clamp on that main. 240V devices involve both mains, and get monitored by both clamps.
1751165
The sensors are attached to the main power lines. The consumption is monitored for the whole system in real time. I love it.
585485
The unit attaches to both legs of the incoming power so it reads 110 and 220 draws.
67124
Voltage is the power that is needed by the appliance for instance 120 voltage is used by small appliances and light bulbs.240 voltage is used by large appliances such as the stove and washing machine. The wattage is the amount that said appliances use such as light bulbs of 75 wattage compared to bulbs that are brighter using 150 watts.
644369
Basically you push buttons to view present voltage current and watts or power factor and accumulated kWh (energy consumption over time). This article might be helpful: http://greenhomearchitect.com/2013/11/22/weekend-project-where-is-all-my-electricity-really-going/
1860317
What do you think when you use the voltmeter to measure the voltage of the outlet in your house and the meter keep showing the voltage value changing all the time for example 100V then 110V then 90V then 120V (I know for sure 120V at the outlet by measuring with a good Voltmeter)????
1702658
You are confusing Watts and Volts! American current is 110 VOLTS, but the description here says 220 WATTS. That would mean simply that it uses as much current as a 220 watt light bulb, but you could screw a bulb of any wattage into a 110-VOLT receptacle!
55325
Only 110V. The electricity voltage in my country is 220V, so I had to get a transformer 220-110 and works perfect. I hope this helps to you.
1735063
Yes. the watt button gives you instantaneous power usage.The KWH kilowatt hour button gives you power consumption over time.For example, keep your refrigerator on it for 24 hours tells you how muchpower it uses on a typical day. The meter doesn't have batteries. It uses a small amount of current to operate. a power loss would lose the measurement.
1929913
My technician used normal electrical house wires for 240V. Only consideration was how many appliances were connected to the same source of power. I had bought 220V. It also comes in 110V. I do not have a hotwayer tank system where it was installed. So I use electric currant to heat water for every use of hot water. You can chose to use room temoerature water without using power. the flow is good, but as you increase the flow the water does not get enough time to heat. but for me, using the hot water as per my likeness, it was hot enough and even hotter with a conformable flow of water. My technician used normal electrical house wires for 240V. Only consideration was how many appliances were connected to the same source of power. I had bought 220V. It also comes in 110V. I do not have a hotwayer tank system where it was installed. So I use electric currant to heat water for every use of hot water. You can chose to use room temoerature water without using power. the flow is good, but as you increase the flow the water does not get enough time to heat. but for me, using the hot water as per my likeness, it was hot enough and even hotter with a conformable flow of water.
222590
you need to call the manufacturer for that information. A lot of small appliances need a transformer to work, otherwise the 220 V will fry the circuitry
2215657
Based on the information provided by you, I think you have two motors each of 100 Watts running on 220 v. I have been using Power Bright VC300M voltage transformer for one appliance that uses 200 Watts running on 220 V and so far there has been no issues. There is only one power outlet for step down (converting 220 v to 110 v for using other country appliances in US) and the other outlet is for step up (converting 110 v to 220 v for use of US appliances in other countries). I have never used another country's power-cord extension to the transformer and hence cannot comment on how the transformer will perform with 2 motors running on the same unit. Based on the information provided by you, I think you have two motors each of 100 Watts running on 220 v. I have been using Power Bright VC300M voltage transformer for one appliance that uses 200 Watts running on 220 V and so far there has been no issues. There is only one power outlet for step down (converting 220 v to 110 v for using other country appliances in US) and the other outlet is for step up (converting 110 v to 220 v for use of US appliances in other countries). I have never used another country's power-cord extension to the transformer and hence cannot comment on... » Read More Based on the information provided by you, I think you have two motors each of 100 Watts running on 220 v. I have been using Power Bright VC300M voltage transformer for one appliance that uses 200 Watts running on 220 V and so far there has been no issues. There is only one power outlet for step down (converting 220 v to 110 v for using other country appliances in US) and the other outlet is for step up (converting 110 v to 220 v for use of US appliances in other countries). I have never used another country's power-cord extension to the transformer and hence cannot comment on how the transformer will perform with 2 motors running on the same unit. « Show Less
810825
Yes. the watt button gives you instantaneous power usage. The KWH kilowatt hour button gives you power consumption over time. For example, keep your refrigerator on it for 24 hours tells you how much power it uses on a typical day. The meter doesn't have batteries. It uses a small amount of current to operate. a power loss would lose the measurement.
1223801
Watts are to tenths of a watt. One decimal place. FYI: If I was going to buy another one, I'd get another "P4400" original and not this "EZ" "P4460" version. I have one of each and the newer "EZ" does the electrical cost calculation, but since there are no more buttons, they switched to a confusing multi-press 'Menu' sequence that takes forever poking around looking for the information you want. I don't use it enough to remember where I found what I am looking for the next time and it is a pain. The original has a button for each feature with max of 2 selections per button. I can always find the value I am looking for with a maximum of 2 button presses. I don't care about the accumulated data memory that the new one has. Also, the newer one has a display that is set back deeper and is harder to read unless you shine a flashlight on it most places in a wall outlet.
350481
Why would you need two, unless they each run separate 220v units? Did you compare the wattage demand of your heaters with the capacity of the thermostat? I matched mine to the amperage rating of my baseboard heaters, and it has been working just fine for almost two years now. You are using this 220v device with a 220v application, right? Most fans are 110v. It's possible to pull that out of a 220v circuit depending on what wire service exists (black, red, white and ground wires of adequate gauge are needed), but these things need to be wired correctly and carefully. Otherwise, it may do more than melt. Why would you need two, unless they each run separate 220v units? Did you compare the wattage demand of your heaters with the capacity of the thermostat? I matched mine to the amperage rating of my baseboard heaters, and it has been working just fine for almost two years now. You are using this 220v device with a 220v application, right? Most fans are 110v. It's possible to pull that out of a 220v circuit depending on what wire service exists (black, red, white and ground wires of adequate gauge are needed), but these things need to be wired correctly and carefully. Otherwise, it may do... » Read More Why would you need two, unless they each run separate 220v units? Did you compare the wattage demand of your heaters with the capacity of the thermostat? I matched mine to the amperage rating of my baseboard heaters, and it has been working just fine for almost two years now. You are using this 220v device with a 220v application, right? Most fans are 110v. It's possible to pull that out of a 220v circuit depending on what wire service exists (black, red, white and ground wires of adequate gauge are needed), but these things need to be wired correctly and carefully. Otherwise, it may do more than melt. « Show Less
1117377
That depends. Appliances with motors can take extra current (or watts) at startup that might be 2 or 3 times the running current. The Kill-a-watts does not really detect that peak turn-on wattage. But you can watch the display and it will update in a second or two and you can roughly how much current (wattage) the appliance takes. But you will need to watch it at startup. For appliances without motors, you can just look at the typical wattage and get a pretty good feel for how much electricity it will require.
1536830
I just read the online user manual, and watts is one of the readings you can get. See pages 9 & 10. http://www.p3international.com/manuals/p4460_manual.pdf
469012
This is NOT a voltage converter, it will only allow you to use that 1600 Watt item if it is rated for 110V 60HZ which is what is used in the USA. If your item is not rated for that then you will need a voltage converter in order to use that item.
1326294
From pervious answer: "It is 1500 the same as most of them. Ours just stopped working, we had it 3 years" not correct...Voltage is standard US household voltage of ~120V. Wattage is 1500. This is close to the maximum of must household outlet circuits. It will work fine in most cases, however, you cannot put two of these units on a single circuit. Two units will trip the breaker. One will not.From another previous answer: "Do not use this item with an extension cord or surge protector. It will melt the cord and short out the heater" This statement is true only if you use a small extension with inadequate wire guage. A good 12 ga. extension will work fine. From pervious answer: "It is 1500 the same as most of them. Ours just stopped working, we had it 3 years" not correct...Voltage is standard US household voltage of ~120V. Wattage is 1500. This is close to the maximum of must household outlet circuits. It will work fine in most cases, however, you cannot put two of these units on a single circuit. Two units will trip the breaker. One will not.From another previous answer: "Do not use this item with an extension cord or surge protector. It will melt the cord and short out the heater" This statement is... » Read More From pervious answer: "It is 1500 the same as most of them. Ours just stopped working, we had it 3 years" not correct...Voltage is standard US household voltage of ~120V. Wattage is 1500. This is close to the maximum of must household outlet circuits. It will work fine in most cases, however, you cannot put two of these units on a single circuit. Two units will trip the breaker. One will not.From another previous answer: "Do not use this item with an extension cord or surge protector. It will melt the cord and short out the heater" This statement is true only if you use a small extension with inadequate wire guage. A good 12 ga. extension will work fine. « Show Less