Can I use this on Nitro Lacquer to bring out the SHINE on my restored Guitar
1747671
Yes, if there aren't any breaks in the finish use a small amount of soapy water as a lubricant. But if there is anywhere the water can get through the the finish (cracks or penetrations) it will cause the finish to blister. If the finish is solid, start with 1000 and move up to at least 3600. Then you can buff with wax or very fine car polish, then wax.
1747672
You can as this product acts just like high grit sandpaper so you would want to wet sand with it as you would in the final stages of finishing. You may only need a abrasive polish or rubbing compound and a buffer or a lot of elbow grease if you are just trying to restore luster.
1747673
I agree with the previous posts, but I would agree with the one that says start with a finer grit not the 1000 - if your finish is thin a coarser grit can go through it and ruin your best friend. I am not familiar with the nitro-li have used it building with Tru-Oil with wonderful results and used it to do some repair work on older guitars but with great caution.
1747674
HI.....that would be a good question.....I would start with a very small section on the back where no one would see.....and work through the full set of grits. Be sure you are keeping it wet. that seems to work best for me when I use mine....and I like mine. At first the lower grits you start thinking - what have I done...but when you start working through the higher grits you see the shine...hope this helps.......
1747675
I don't exactly know that finish you're talking about. I do know that I've used these sheets on a cyanoacrylate finish I out on wooden jewelry and it works amazingly well. My advice is to test a small patch with one of the very high grit numbers (maybe around a 7,000'grit or above) and see what happens. With my finish the lower grits were necessary to go through so that by the 12,000 grit it shined back everything to an ultra high gloss. I'd give it a shot. Good luck.
922795
Yes, but rough up the brass slightly first with a scotch brite. The patina will work much faster that way. After neutralizing in a water + baking soda bath, rub lightly with baking soda on your finger to get that antiqued look and brighten up the high spots for interesting texture. Check You Tube for some great video how-tos.
342985
Yes it gives you a nice smooth glossy finish.Great for applying decals so they don't silver
1847052
I would say yes, it would dull the effects of the metallic paint. Since this is a wax it creates a barrier that will cause a slight clouding of any finish. I would really suggest this for only unpainted or stained woods since it will bring out the grains in those. I can't really see this working well for any painted finish. However, I would be happy to try it out and let you know how it reacts!
1663232
I prefer nitro. This particular neck comes with a light coat of sealer, it is compatible with laquer. If you reshape the back, and I recommend it because it's a little too thick, you'll burn through it anyway. After you get the final shape sand it up to 320 grit but just scuff the fret board with Scotch-brite. Seal the whole thing with Behlens vinyl sealer then scuff it with 320. If you burn through the vinyl apply another coat. After that apply 2-3 very light coats of Behlens nitrocellulose lacqer to the fret board (frets and all) and 6-8 coats to the back and head-stock. If you want a colored finish you can add trans-tint dye to the lacquer to make it a toner. I prefer nitro. This particular neck comes with a light coat of sealer, it is compatible with laquer. If you reshape the back, and I recommend it because it's a little too thick, you'll burn through it anyway. After you get the final shape sand it up to 320 grit but just scuff the fret board with Scotch-brite. Seal the whole thing with Behlens vinyl sealer then scuff it with 320. If you burn through the vinyl apply another coat. After that apply 2-3 very light coats of Behlens nitrocellulose lacqer to the fret board (frets and all) and 6-8 coats to the back and head-stock. If you want a... » Read More I prefer nitro. This particular neck comes with a light coat of sealer, it is compatible with laquer. If you reshape the back, and I recommend it because it's a little too thick, you'll burn through it anyway. After you get the final shape sand it up to 320 grit but just scuff the fret board with Scotch-brite. Seal the whole thing with Behlens vinyl sealer then scuff it with 320. If you burn through the vinyl apply another coat. After that apply 2-3 very light coats of Behlens nitrocellulose lacqer to the fret board (frets and all) and 6-8 coats to the back and head-stock. If you want a colored finish you can add trans-tint dye to the lacquer to make it a toner. « Show Less
159159
Yes you should be able to do that. I used it on a pair of brown boots and it made them a darker color after applying it.
1091407
Generally speaking, it is always best to stick with the same brand and type of paint for all coats, primer, base, color, clear/top coat. Lacquer can not be used over enamel, but enamel can usually be used over lacquer with no problem. I am not sure if the Rust-Oleum clear coat is enamel or lacquer, but, since it is being applied over lacquer, it "should" be OK regardless. To be safe, it should be tested on a separate test piece or in an inconspicuous area. There is never any way to guarantee that different brands of paint will be compatible, but, in most cases they are.
1058847
It`s not ment for bare wood. It reacts with the original finish and brings back the shine. It works well if and old finish is still there
134059
It restored the shine on my copper pans. After using them they get darker, this turns them back to shiny copper
1721384
Hard to say - this stuff is not real lacquer. Real lacquer has the property of blending new coats because of the vehicle (lacquer thinner).Call the mfgr.
1690031
Hey Sam, although I am not specifically qualified to give you a definite yes or no answer to this question, I will state my opinion. After using these products extensively for a few years, I personally would not recommend using the polish on your fret board. I do highly recommend the Dunlop 65 'Lemon Oil' for your fret board though. I use the polish on my guitar body, neck and headstock. It shines up beautiful and after a few fingerprints and smudges you can just wipe it clean again with a cloth and it shines right back up like new. I use the lemon oil on the fretboard (and the bridge, just to make it shine). The lemon oil keeps the fretboard wood nicely moisturized and slick for all your needs. Hey Sam, although I am not specifically qualified to give you a definite yes or no answer to this question, I will state my opinion. After using these products extensively for a few years, I personally would not recommend using the polish on your fret board. I do highly recommend the Dunlop 65 'Lemon Oil' for your fret board though. I use the polish on my guitar body, neck and headstock. It shines up beautiful and after a few fingerprints and smudges you can just wipe it clean again with a cloth and it shines right back up like new. I use the lemon oil on the fretboard (and the bridge, just... » Read More Hey Sam, although I am not specifically qualified to give you a definite yes or no answer to this question, I will state my opinion. After using these products extensively for a few years, I personally would not recommend using the polish on your fret board. I do highly recommend the Dunlop 65 'Lemon Oil' for your fret board though. I use the polish on my guitar body, neck and headstock. It shines up beautiful and after a few fingerprints and smudges you can just wipe it clean again with a cloth and it shines right back up like new. I use the lemon oil on the fretboard (and the bridge, just to make it shine). The lemon oil keeps the fretboard wood nicely moisturized and slick for all your needs. « Show Less
174587
the points of contact are covered with a soft close cell material. No damage to my guitar but I do not have a nitrocellulose finish.
373374
I painted a car I restored and the paint came out beautiful. To try and compare that and answer your question is difficult. Stain has a much thinner viscosity than automotive paint. What you will need to do is adjust the fan spray pattern as well as the air mixture but it can be easily done with this unit. It is an LVLP and compared to my other guns that are HVLP, LVLP gives a much finer spray with much less overspray which will allow you to have much less loss of material from overspray as well as less orange peal. Make sure your compressor is able to provide about 10 CFM or better and keep your tank pressure as high as possible and adjust it down at the gun with a pressure valve at the gun. Be sure to test the air compressor with an empty gun by holding the trigger and making sure that after several minutes of continuous use, the pressure regulator at the gun can maintain a pressure in the peek of the green zone.
1312826
In my experience, YES, absolutely safe. I use it as the second-to-final polishing stage with the nitrocellulose lacquer I use to finish the acoustic guitars I build. Provided the lacquer has had sufficient time to reach full cure, the Meguiar's 105 is perfect for getting a mirror-sheen, after buffing it out on the buffing wheel with extra-fine compound, which still leaves some swirl marks. After giving the finish a good rubdown with Meguiar's 105 (using a foam pad wrapped in tee-shirt cotton), I finish up with Meguiar's #205 to perfect the finish. I have found nothing better! In addition to lacquer finishes, Meguiar's also works fine with various Poly finishes, including waterborne polyurethanes. Hope this helps!
2031675
I should think so. It may help to slightly roughen the inside of the ring to assist in adhesion. Also, make sure the metal is clean, lacquer thinner will remove any oil residue. Depending on the thickness, it may take more than one application, due to shrinkage.
1426201
you can use it on head lights and it works as good as the restorers . You will need to do some hard strokes and repeat a few times to get a good shine but it works great!
554508
Generally, one never sprays lacquer over other paint types. I don't know what will happen if you decide to spray a lacquer clear coat over a polyurethane base coat. I don't recommend it. but I am very much not an expert in this particular field. I do recommend that you consult a professional if you seek professional results. Perhaps some testing may produce suitable results?