Hi, not much hand strength...skier's thumb, will these easily cut 9 gauge galv. wire, or is there a better tool? Thanks
358841
Ya these are easier on the hands than say the Irwin side cutters. I've used them to cut wires holding suspended ceiling grid. They pretty much do what dykes or side cutters would but easier on hands.
1334194
I use this tool for automotive battery cables/ends. I have used it up to a 0 gauge cables and heavy duty/thick terminal ends. Hopefully this helps.
997774
these are your best bet because you can use a lower (heavier duty) "awg or gage" wire dirrectly to the connection/metal of the connector- deffinitely a plus for ease and efficiency of use and installation, most importantly you dont have to worry about splicing in to the flimsy thin wire on all the others available. solderless connectors like these are fullproof while other "style" connectors can be shady sometimes. ive used these 110 and dc and in a car using the battery directly
249341
I have cut two of these ropes now and the first one was a snap. I used a good pair of wire cutters that we had around the house for years. They were my Dad's and they were well made and still sharp. They didn't smash the cable at all. Another time I was visiting a friend and helping him cut his rope but he only had some cheap rusty old wire cutters and that was tougher. I realized that not all wire cutters are created equally. So make sure you have a good pair of wire clippers.
549832
I used the wire to stiffen a 7 foot deer fence around our property. I used aluminum crimping sleeves once I had looped the wire around each of the fence poles. I used a crimping tool that you can buy on Amazon to squeeze the sleeves. I think they are just saying that they do not rate the wire to hold any significant weight overhead. I would imagine a 1/16 wire could fatigue. Just a guess as it was not applicable for my application.
2248050
Hey Wareren, .. ok, I took a knife too one of my connectors; though it all looks like copper, I was however, able to cut a surface layer off identifying aluminum. Weight also doesn't line up with what would the weight of 25' of copper cables. I will note, they have worked fine for the occasional use that I had need of them. I still really like the quality connectors, all the rubber, and the carrying case is of better quality than I expected. Personally at this price point & again, for what I'm using them for, I would buy again. Note: Though these are called "commercial duty", I would not buy them for commercial use!
933285
I have only used mine for 2 GA battery wire on my car and it did a great job so I don't see why it wouldn't do just as good a job for you. The die's that come with it are metric but it is easy to cross over. This is a great tool for the money and sure saves the hands from all the hard squeezing. Hope this helps. John
667585
I have used this tool to strip hundreds 12 awg wires successfully since I got it. It feels almost as easy to strip 12 awg as any other smaller size. Just place the wire at the right position and squeeze. One note: if you use solid conductor of a heavy guage (including 12) make sure that your wire is relatively straight, without big bumps or bends; otherwise the effective cross-section of the wire is increased at the jaws, making the job a lot harder or even impossible.
1612857
It's probably to small to handle the skill saw. Wire size should be 2 guage minimum and no longer than 3'
2237584
No man these things are great!!! You can't bend them with your bare hands if you tried, size is nice, they come sharp, one downfall is that they are dark, so throwing them outside and losing them in the dirt is a thing.... But the shiny edge helps.... Trust me, no regrets!
1217980
Having to use one on a project, I cut one in half (length-wise). Scary - Really scary.These are not made with 20-gauge. Maybe not even 24-gauge. Barely larger than 30-gauge wire-wrap. I was going to strip and solder one end. But this will be difficult, even with a small, low-wattage soldering iron. These are probably fine for signal-level work (r.f. and audio). For higher voltage and current applications, it may be better (safer, at least) to construct your own jumper-cables.The Chinese continue to scimp on metal. Somthing to keep in mind when buying from Asia. Having to use one on a project, I cut one in half (length-wise). Scary - Really scary.These are not made with 20-gauge. Maybe not even 24-gauge. Barely larger than 30-gauge wire-wrap. I was going to strip and solder one end. But this will be difficult, even with a small, low-wattage soldering iron. These are probably fine for signal-level work (r.f. and audio). For higher voltage and current applications, it may be better (safer, at least) to construct your own jumper-cables.The Chinese continue to scimp on metal. Somthing to keep in mind when... » Read More Having to use one on a project, I cut one in half (length-wise). Scary - Really scary.These are not made with 20-gauge. Maybe not even 24-gauge. Barely larger than 30-gauge wire-wrap. I was going to strip and solder one end. But this will be difficult, even with a small, low-wattage soldering iron. These are probably fine for signal-level work (r.f. and audio). For higher voltage and current applications, it may be better (safer, at least) to construct your own jumper-cables.The Chinese continue to scimp on metal. Somthing to keep in mind when buying from Asia. « Show Less
933286
Yes, but check your gauges, when you are using high amperage gauges of wire you might be outside the sizing of this tool. What the tool does is pretty simple, but might not work for really hard wire.
1464042
Free fall means you don't have to "force" them open, gravity does the work, like they are "loose" (but they are not, they are plenty tight and don't twist or seperate which would cause problems while cutting). This makes for quicker work and ease of "flow". The extra long handle just gives you a little more leverage, but honestly, if you need it, the wire you are cutting is too heavy a gauge and you shouldn't be using this tool on them. They are meant for light gauge, soft copper wire (cat 3, 5, 6) that they should cut through very easily. It does make it nice for quick ID if you carry them in a tool bag though. Free fall means you don't have to "force" them open, gravity does the work, like they are "loose" (but they are not, they are plenty tight and don't twist or seperate which would cause problems while cutting). This makes for quicker work and ease of "flow". The extra long handle just gives you a little more leverage, but honestly, if you need it, the wire you are cutting is too heavy a gauge and you shouldn't be using this tool on them. They are meant for light gauge, soft copper wire (cat 3, 5, 6) that they should cut through very easily. It does make it nice... » Read More Free fall means you don't have to "force" them open, gravity does the work, like they are "loose" (but they are not, they are plenty tight and don't twist or seperate which would cause problems while cutting). This makes for quicker work and ease of "flow". The extra long handle just gives you a little more leverage, but honestly, if you need it, the wire you are cutting is too heavy a gauge and you shouldn't be using this tool on them. They are meant for light gauge, soft copper wire (cat 3, 5, 6) that they should cut through very easily. It does make it nice for quick ID if you carry them in a tool bag though. « Show Less
249340
Hi BatSheva, The best tool to cut the jump rope cable is a sharp and strong wire cutter. There is a video showing this tool at www.JacksFitness.net/FreeGift check it out and it will help you with this question. You will have to add your name and email. Don't worry we won't spam you ...and if you don't want to stay on our list after checking out the video, then just unsubscribe ok? Good Luck. MK Carr CEO Jack's Fitness Products
1423864
This is not the best or cheapest tool for that kind of work. I have done it but it takes.a few steps. I'd strip the outer.jacket.away with.the.blade to expose the.length of wires I need to have exposed. Then I either carefully cut down through the insulation and spin the.blade to make a circumfrential cut. Then you may be able to pull the insulation off or grab the insulation with the pliers and pull it off. The other way is to shave the insulation away from the wire. Either way you'll want to be careful not to NICK the wire. To cut the wire itself you could use the pliers to bend it back and forth until the wire fatigues and breaks, or use the file and file part way through then bend it once or.twice and it will snap.
1329671
These cutters are fine for cutting up to about 4mm wire, it's not very fine pointed, good for hobby, I build truck looms and these were inadequate for the job, good grip.
110665
I am left handed and use these to grade seam allowances. Gingher quality makes them precise cutting tools for grading seams. I used them upside down. Since I am only cutting a single layer there is no thumb pain as in using right handed scissors. I don't think that Gingher makes a left handed pair or I have never seen one.