I want to install this into a wall which has tile and cement board (no drywall). What is the minimum and maximum thickness the wall can be for this?
388731
the 4 securing tabs are on rather long screws. My best estimate is that the screws are long enough to secure to the thickness of cement board and tile.
388732
Mine is already installed so I can't measure. The panel is mounted using screws with a paddle at the end that needs to be aligned flush with the panel to go into the wall opening. Once you begin to tighten the paddle there is a catch to prevent it from getting back to the flush position. It is the same design as a remodeling electrical outlet box you would find at your local Home Depot or Lowe's. I happen to have one of them on hand here at home and it would accommodate a wall thickness of 7/8". You could probably squeeze a full 1" if you backed that paddle off a bit more. Hope this helps.
388733
Mine is already installed so I can't measure. The panel is mounted using screws with a paddle at the end that needs to be aligned flush with the panel to go into the wall opening. Once you begin to tighten the paddle there is a catch to prevent it from getting back to the flush position. It is the same design as a remodeling electrical outlet box you would find at your local Home Depot or Lowe's. I happen to have one of them on hand here at home and it would accommodate a wall thickness of 7/8". You could probably squeeze a full 1" if you backed that paddle off a bit more. Hope this helps. Mine is already installed so I can't measure. The panel is mounted using screws with a paddle at the end that needs to be aligned flush with the panel to go into the wall opening. Once you begin to tighten the paddle there is a catch to prevent it from getting back to the flush position. It is the same design as a remodeling electrical outlet box you would find at your local Home Depot or Lowe's. I happen to have one of them on hand here at home and it would accommodate a wall thickness of 7/8". You could probably squeeze a full 1" if you backed that paddle off a bit more. Hope... » Read More Mine is already installed so I can't measure. The panel is mounted using screws with a paddle at the end that needs to be aligned flush with the panel to go into the wall opening. Once you begin to tighten the paddle there is a catch to prevent it from getting back to the flush position. It is the same design as a remodeling electrical outlet box you would find at your local Home Depot or Lowe's. I happen to have one of them on hand here at home and it would accommodate a wall thickness of 7/8". You could probably squeeze a full 1" if you backed that paddle off a bit more. Hope this helps. « Show Less
459778
Yes. It can. You need to check with your handyman. My husband is a carpenter and installed it in about an hour in our wall that was about 6 inches thick. He added some plastic in the pass through areas.
414820
Maybe the Residential model would, I've only used the Commercial model with cement board & ceramic tile or drywall and granite panels. There hasn't been a void between the 2 materials.
852248
That's what I bought it for was posters. Works well as long as the wall is not real rough and porous. I found it didn't work well with cement or stucco walls.
590452
If it good drywall and close to a stud. If the studs are too far apart I would be concerned about breakage. You could always put something there to disperse the pressure like a single 4 or 6 in tile.
809500
For that you'd want a lead anchor with a screw, and washers to secure it. You'd measure where the screws go. Then drill holes in the cement or brick. Place the wall mount up on the wall. Then screw in the lead anchors with the washers and it should hold up fine. I would think you'd want 2" lead anchors just because that'd hold the weight a little better. And if you talk to someone at Lowe's, home depot, or Ace, etc. They should know what you're looking for and be able to help you out. And get a friend to help you mount it. So one person can hold the wall mount while the other screws in the lead anchors.
209019
The manufacturer's installation instructions sheet requires that the purchaser mount the product to wood (or concrete) that is at least 4 inches thick. The screws that are provided with the product are 3.125 inches long.
1178512
I've used both gypsum and cement backer boards in the past. Gypsum is by far easier to work with, I would say just use regular sheetrock. If you install the Kerdi correctly, then the backing material is not going to see water anyway. If you can get it, use an unmodified thinset mortar (ditraset, etc.) as Schluter specify.
1791822
We are a remodeling company so I bought it for a client. It's been installed a month or so ago and I don't have any left over in my office to give you an accurate measurement. It could be 1/4" thick but I am guessing. Sorry I could not give you more info.
1426424
Mine is about a half inch thick but it looks like it could be as much as 3 inches thick (thought that would leave you with only a 1/4" clearance). So maybe it's best to say the maximum usable distance is 3 3/4". The minimum thickness would be set by the length of the screws.
379205
My cat door, installed, is about 4-3/8" deep total. It protrudes from the wall about 1.25" on both the outside and the inside. The remaining 1.875" is the depth of my wall. As I recall there was a lot of room for variance in the depth of the wall. According to the Sureflap website dimensions the tunnel thickness is 3/16", so that might be the minimum wall thickness.
1643931
If you REALLY need to mount to a cement wall, then I would use lag/shield combination into the cement. Because you are not restricted by studs to mount to, you could pretty much place the shields anywhere where the mounting frame covers. Just mark holes from mounting frame, drill hole big enough for shield, attach frame with lags into the shields. The lag/shield would only cost you about $10 bucks @ $2.50 per lag/shield combo? Your biggest challenge is finding a drill (cement drill bit and impact drill) to drill the holes into the cement safely and without grief (normal drills will take much longer to do). If you could put the holes into the mortar lines, I have found that to be easier to drill into. This would be the strongest, easiest and safest way to attach the mount ("you do want to keep the TV on the wall and not falling down to the floor")
1164688
3/8" drywall is the thin stuff. If you can get a nice board that would go with your wall that you can anchor into the drywall with at least 6-8 anchors it would greatly strengthen the rack installation. Might be worth a try. I have done tank-less waterheaters this way but would be best to find what studs you can.
371053
I used the thicker version because I was installing on 3/4" USB over 20" spaced joists. That's due to potential floor flex. On a slab I would have used the thinner (cheaper) version. Some people use the thick version to better match other parts of their floors (like wood floors)
561632
A stud is your best bet. But it may depend on what your wall is made of. Our drywall couldn't hold this, with anchors.
1105530
I just drilled into the wall and put longer screws in. You would want to use the plastic expansion shields in the brick. Keep in mind the mortar joints are the easiest to drill (carbide tip bit).
899826
It is not necessary to mount this into studs on your concrete wall. However, you will need to make sure you purchase the correct mounting hardware for your application.