Will this click in our bedroom? I currently have a wired EIM in the basement and our current Honeywell 3 wire doesn't click.
369941
I have 2 Prestige t-stats. One doesn't make a sound when it activates the heat pump/air handlers, etc. The other one does make a faint "click." But it's not loud or distracting. In fact, it's a nice "click" that tells me the t-stats summoning the air.
961253
1. Correct. You will need to purchase a two conductor wire (I have 18 ga alarm wire from my local home improvement store) OR you can purchase the Honeywell LT-Cable. 2. In my two story home, the unit is across the room from the main entry door. The alarm is PLENTY loud enough for a 2000 sq ft home. The additional sirin really succeeds at letting your neighbors know the alarm was triggered. The alarm remote is radio based and can work through walls. When the remote is used, the main unit beeps one time, very loudly to let you know the status has changed.
1256365
Gerry, Where does the wire originate? (i.e. kitchen switch to kitchen light, basement breaker to livingroom recep etc...) Make sure the power is off. remove the receptacle, light switch or light fixture from the wall or ceiling where you are going to start your trace. Connect the black toner lead to the ground wire which is typically green or bare. Connect the Red toner lead to the neutral wire which is typically white. (polarity isn't essential since the signal is a sine wave and can be traced either way) Turn on the toner and test the signal at the source with your wand. Its best to turn up the volume on the wand to high so you can hear it through the walls. The signal should be loud and clear. While pressing the button on the wand, move it up and down on the wall (switch or recep) or around the ceiling (fixture) to locate the direction where the wire is running. If you have a basement, most likely the wire will run in that direction. If its a recepticle, you will have a supply line coming from the basement and another line running to (possibly) multiple switches and light fixtures. you will need to trace all lines that have a toner signal. Every electrician wires houses a little differently. Some homes, a room has a line running to a receptacle, from there a light switch, then a light fixture. All of these wires will share the same tone. Once you have traced the lines, you will get to a point where the signal drops and it is barely audible. This is where the break is. If it is in a wall, you may have more of a rodent or structural issue than just a wire break. Without being there, seeing the house and understanding the issue more I really cant give much more info. If this helps, let me know. If not and you have another question, feel free to ask. God Bless and happy tracing!
616189
It will work and talk to other Nest Protect detectors, but not Kidde, First Alert, or any other detectors. The feature is called "wireless interconnect" for the nest by the way.
1054334
it is a scam! it does nothing. you plug it in to wall but nothing inside is connected to anything. there is just a random piece of plasic inside with little pieces of random metal. no wires or anything connected to anything. total snake oil scam!! best bet is buy an emf meter so you can find areas in your home to shield or stay away from.
1703000
Trash it and get you a Chamberlain Wireless Motion Alert. I got 3 of them and they are working great. No digging holes to bury them in either :-)
1107978
I mounted it on the ceiling and it penetrated to the second floor with good signal. I love mine. The middle floor would be the best because it would penetrate upper and lower. BTW remember you need a POE Injector unless you have a POE Switch.
182074
Hello Kathleen, The unit comes with one "standard" sensor rated at 71Amps (8.5kW @ 120VAC) and will "clamp" over a 10mm (3/8") wire. There is a 200Amp (17mm wire) available (sold as an accessory). You will need at least two sensors if you're in the US (if you're aiming at total usage). The transmitter has inputs for up to 3 sensors (3phase) Most all US residential is 120/240 60Hz two wire with a neutral. These units appear to be originally intended for the UK (Euro) market where the power grid is 230VAC 50Hz single wire and neutral. I couldn't seem to find any sensors locally (in the US) and finally ordered from MGElectronics Ltd, Egmanton, UK, Nottinghamshire thru Ebay. (Sorry, I don't have the link at hand) Just Google Owl CM119 (or your model #) sensors - there will be many hits. &lt;$25 US with "Royal" shipping - - takes a while (like 2 weeks) but eventually gets here. Funny, shipments from China arrive in 3 to 5 days - - go figure . . . must be the language barrier - - humm? BTW I really like my monitor - much better than the Efergy E2, although, I do like Efergy's software a bit more. When checking against a known load (wattage) the Owl is spot-on, whereas the E2 varies. Have a great day.
526503
If your sauna is putting out a high level emf I would say this will tell you.It goes off in places where wiring is hidden and we did not now it was there.It goes off really loud and high when we are near certain things.I would say it would.We really like this unit and for the price it is worth it to us.
1283500
I have mine wired to a light switch so when I enter the room I can just flip the switch. Unless you have a light switch wired to the closet I don't think it would work?? That's just my thought. Good luck.
600987
Yes, because it is a 3-way switch. I have my wired in such a circuit, and it works perfectly.
1736990
Hi An, First of all, I just want to let you know that I'm not an electrician and all the installation that I had performed was just by following the instructions that came with the product and also did some online reading so that answer that I'm going to tell you was just based on their instruction. All my installations were on a single-switch installation and I never done a 3-way installation but just looking at instruction, it showed that Red is connected to the Yellow wire. I took a picture of the diagram that I had when I still have my Honeywell switches and I hope by looking at this, it will clear things up for you. http://db.tt/NXf3Hi0X- Joel Hi An, First of all, I just want to let you know that I'm not an electrician and all the installation that I had performed was just by following the instructions that came with the product and also did some online reading so that answer that I'm going to tell you was just based on their instruction. All my installations were on a single-switch installation and I never done a 3-way installation but just looking at instruction, it showed that Red is connected to the Yellow wire. I took a picture of the diagram that I had when I still have my Honeywell switches and I hope by looking at... » Read More Hi An, First of all, I just want to let you know that I'm not an electrician and all the installation that I had performed was just by following the instructions that came with the product and also did some online reading so that answer that I'm going to tell you was just based on their instruction. All my installations were on a single-switch installation and I never done a 3-way installation but just looking at instruction, it showed that Red is connected to the Yellow wire. I took a picture of the diagram that I had when I still have my Honeywell switches and I hope by looking at this, it will clear things up for you. http://db.tt/NXf3Hi0X- Joel « Show Less
93643
We have THREE of these fans now and though I don't use the oscillator much, I haven't noticed any clicking. I just ran each fan on oscillate and cycled through each of the speeds. It sounded seamless. No clicking at all. For those who have clicking, I would make sure the base is snapped . together properly and that the fan is on a flat surface.
906764
I have two units; one for heat and one for the AC. Only the one for the AC clicks on and off. The manufacturer offered to replace it, but then said that 50% of them make that noise. Of course, the AC hasn't been on in months (I live in PA), but I actually think that either it stopped the clicking, or I got used to it and totally ignored it. I actually had two Honeywells for years that were totally quite, but they became inaccurate and shut the heat and AC on and off, and that noise was louder than the clicking. Ya can't always get what you want.
1242988
not electrically qualified to answer that question. I would direct question back to Honeywell
263937
Sidney, I wonder if you tried it? If so, how did it work for you? I am considering the same setup. I cannot run a wire from the inside wall to the outside wall so I was thinking simply mounting the units on opposite faces of the door, hiding the wire inside the door itself. (sorry if this comment is entered in the wrong place)
1415473
I wired mine using the existing 40-yr-old, 3-switch wall unit. I think any device that causes the electricity to be fed to the correct wires, when you want it fed there, will do.