stemming from the first question, I use powder enamal, when heated it melts. Does this paint dry to a hard/raised feel? Smooth/Brushstrokes? thx
385124
my use for this paint has been for detail work in coloring 50 caliber ammunition belts for vintage military aircraft and armored vehicle models.as such, I do not know how it would compare to powder coating on larger items.
1733667
Nothing to do, just let it dry for an overnight or 1 day to be sure. on the prep make sure it is dry and maybe you can use the sand paper (included in package) so paint will stick properly, then, clean it dry. It works on me, it looks like new afterwards.
356837
Don't buy it! I had two cans so I know it was not just a bad can I got. It don't dry with a solid finish. It will always get on your hands if you touch it, and finger prints make it look like crap after time. And no! It is not a hi temp paint and will just burn off and smoke at hi temp. Avoid it, Unless you want to make something shiny but never plan to handle it because when it is dry finger prints show on it and you get it on your hands and it makes it look like crap and reduce the shine. And it is not a hi temp paint.
2125877
Hello Twigs: First, I would check the heat temperature rating on this product (side of can). I used all of mine so I no longer have the can in front of me. Next would be to measure the surface temp of your exhaust manifold. As I work part time for an "Orange Colored" box store, I can safely tell you that Rust-Oleum makes all different types of heat resistant paint. Punch in "high temp exhaust manifold spray paint" on your Amazon search box and see what comes up. The paint you are asking about, I used on my Weber Grill which can and has gotten up to 500 degrees F. This paint did not peel or flake. Good luck! Hello Twigs: First, I would check the heat temperature rating on this product (side of can). I used all of mine so I no longer have the can in front of me. Next would be to measure the surface temp of your exhaust manifold. As I work part time for an "Orange Colored" box store, I can safely tell you that Rust-Oleum makes all different types of heat resistant paint. Punch in "high temp exhaust manifold spray paint" on your Amazon search box and see what comes up. The paint you are asking about, I used on my Weber Grill which can and has gotten up to 500 degrees F. This... » Read More Hello Twigs: First, I would check the heat temperature rating on this product (side of can). I used all of mine so I no longer have the can in front of me. Next would be to measure the surface temp of your exhaust manifold. As I work part time for an "Orange Colored" box store, I can safely tell you that Rust-Oleum makes all different types of heat resistant paint. Punch in "high temp exhaust manifold spray paint" on your Amazon search box and see what comes up. The paint you are asking about, I used on my Weber Grill which can and has gotten up to 500 degrees F. This paint did not peel or flake. Good luck! « Show Less
1074377
After continued use the bristles on this brush will either spread out or compress. Ii agree that you should be waiting for your pans to cool first, but this brush has never let me down. However, the bristles and the brush are made of nylon (or some sort of plastic), not silicon, so theoretically they will melt at high temperatures
2045080
VHT sprays better than any "rattlecan" paint I have ever used. Paint stainless steel? Why? But if you have to, this is as good a high temp paint as there is. You need to prime with high temp primer too after cleaning and scuffing with 400 grit paper.
30550
I bought mine to use on our gas stove to help even out the temps for simmering. This is an excellent product & I think it is light enough to lift & move with tongs (I got the smaller size). I just let mine cool down before moving it. The finish/coating? not sure about that but (it's like a solid disk) is rugged, not any cheap enamel or anything which would chip or peel off.... hope this helps. I would buy this for camp type cooking !!
1379932
It didn't mess ours up when we baked it. I think they recommend baking it to make the paint permanent? I honestly couldn't tell the difference between what the pieces looked like before and after we baked them, but baking definitely didn't mess anything up. Good luck!
1372169
The instructions indicate you sprinkle it on a medium fire. Ok, that doesn't make any sence to me what so ever. I simply place the powder on a flat board and spread it out nicely. Then I insert the board carefully on top of the fire from the side. It seems to work well, and I don't get that crispy burnt hand feeling. Wish you the best.
1869243
I will tell you one thing. do no skimp on prep time. If you can, san all of the old paint off first. It is not easy, but this is the only way to get a factory finish. might i suggest a wire wheel on a drill, then after that , smooth out the metal o it is realatively smooth. When you now paint it, make sure you do noy let the nozzle get to close to prevent runs, if ny type of imperfections were to happen, then wait for the taint to dry, then sand the imperfevt area, then put on at leaaaat two thinne coats rather than one Robert thicke coat
219043
M/S paints are exceptionally good quality paints. Some of them are a bit thick, the high-gloss paints, more so than others. Paints also get thicker as they age. I don't know what the shelf life is on these paints, but I have found that they do tend to thicken to almost a "gel like" substance the older they get. Adding water is okay and does not effect the outcome of your project - as long as it's only a small amount of water. Too much water will make the paints lose some of the gloss effect and will not cover as thoroughly. If the paint is too gel like or too thick already, I would advise buying a new bottle (or set) to insure the best outcome for your project. The paint should Not be 'gel like' brand new. It should be thick but easily useable. A word of caution: Hobby and Craft stores, as well as Paint stores, often put their paints On Sale as they enter the end of their factory recommended shelf life. The paints are still good, but best used right away. Paints are also put On Sale as new colors hit the market and old ones fall out of favor, so not all paint 'on sale' has necessarily reached it 'sell by' date! I hope this info is helpful! C.Dinkins, Madison MS
2208325
I didn't use the glaze. I tried it and it didn't seem to change it much. However, a couple of people said they liked it. BTW, I used a foam brush and put on three coats, so there wasn't any grain showing.
271551
Experimenting,cleaning nozzles, tubes, adjusting spray nozzle, thinning paint down quite a bit, at least 50/50 comes out too watery. Pressure from can seemed to vary--not from being cold, unless 2 0r 3 little squirts cool it down that fast. Overall not too excited about the product. I end up using stock sray paint if I can find the right colors and not lacquer based. Usually coat pices with primer before colors, so as not o melt plastic
1075715
Colomba d., it's nice to hear from you again. The canvas does come as you know with some folds and creases due to how it is packaged. Canvas is a fabric, so what I do is iron it from the back side of the canvas on medium heat until the folds and wrinkles are gone. Then I lay the canvas on my paint table flat and paint away. Then I stretch the painting over my framing boards. I like laying my canvas flat especially painting by the numbers, because you can guide your paint brush with better leverage. Myself I always use two coats on each number to cover the number. If you mix your paint correctly, you will have enough paint for the entire painting. You will see a definite difference in your painting when your finished using two coats. I think I have painted at least ten DiyOilPaintings kits so far. I hope this helped you out. If you have any other questions don't hesitate to ask. Don C.
1267589
I airbrushed a tan, flat (Testors) base-coat. Let it dry completely. Then I brushed a mixture of Raw-Umber, oil paint. Follow that with a very light mix of Burnt-Umber, following the grain pattern along the stock.Hang the stock on a piece of curved wire and set aside to dry for a few days, before assembly. I have a very nice picture of the finished product.
332706
I have not experienced this drying out, but I would think the compound is oil base not water. Therefore I suggest trying light oil such as 3 in 1 or WD 40. Maybe even paint thinner.
274388
I have never had any problem with it drying. The issue is that you HAVE to make sure all of the embossing powder has melted when you hit it with the heat gun - and be aware that it takes the heat gun a moment or two to heat up... just because it's blowing doesn't mean it's hot enough. Once it has warmed up, and your embossing powder is on there, it should "dry" (harden is a better word) within 10 seconds.