How often is it safe to use this fine cut cleaner. It seems to leave the car like ultimate compound, which i know is a very strong abrasive.
359693
There's not going to be a blanket answer to this because so many environments, exposures and paint formulations exist. For me, once a year is all it takes to get the last year's oxidation off. In between I'll do a Show Car Glaze (now called machine glaze) in the spring and fall with the Fine Cut in mid-summer.I use the High-tech yellow wax as a protectant and the car is stored under a car port.
359694
I read that some Honda models have water based paint jobs. It's Hondas attempt at going green. Usually the surfaces(horizontal) are over polished by dealers(or anyone really) because thats the first place we look for a shine and it's the easiest to polish. Just lay the polisher up there and turn it on. Just like a table so, paint is usually thinner there. You can purchase an instument that will measure the thickness of the paint (or ask a reliable shop to do it) check for the differance from roof, hood, trunck then check the side doors and fenders. A polyeurothane clear coat basecoat job can easily cost $3000.00 if done right ! I read that some Honda models have water based paint jobs. It's Hondas attempt at going green. Usually the surfaces(horizontal) are over polished by dealers(or anyone really) because thats the first place we look for a shine and it's the easiest to polish. Just lay the polisher up there and turn it on. Just like a table so, paint is usually thinner there. You can purchase an instument that will measure the thickness of the paint (or ask a reliable shop to do it) check for the differance from roof, hood, trunck then check the side doors and fenders. A polyeurothane clear coat basecoat job... » Read More I read that some Honda models have water based paint jobs. It's Hondas attempt at going green. Usually the surfaces(horizontal) are over polished by dealers(or anyone really) because thats the first place we look for a shine and it's the easiest to polish. Just lay the polisher up there and turn it on. Just like a table so, paint is usually thinner there. You can purchase an instument that will measure the thickness of the paint (or ask a reliable shop to do it) check for the differance from roof, hood, trunck then check the side doors and fenders. A polyeurothane clear coat basecoat job can easily cost $3000.00 if done right ! « Show Less
359695
This is fine "cut" cleaner, though it's called Mirror Glaze(which is confusing-look at the red meter on left, and go lower to get finer grits), and #5 is surely an abrasive for removing scratches, heavy oxidation, etc....and should not be a repeat process over the same panels. When the panel is free of scratching(if not too deep), move to finer grit, swirl remover #4, before getting to non-abrasive "show car glaze", and/or wax. Hopefully not letting it get away from you, by washing and waxing often, maintaining the clearcoat...hope this helps.
359696
I emailed Meguires about a paint job on my older Ford Explorer. Seems that the body shop used a cheap clear coat over the base coat and began to haze prematurely. I suspected the clear coat was sprayed on too thin. I live in the southwest and auto paint is subject to harsh summer heat. I asked the shop to spray four clear coats but I'm sure they didn't and used some cheap stuff because paint failure happens after a couple of years but anyway, The customer care guys at Meguires suggested I use this product with a grey foam pad( I used a yellow) and my car looked like new after I finished it. The oxidized paint came right off. I also put the synthetic sealer soon afterwards and even left that on overnight to bind with the paint. You really dont need to polish your car often if you wash it by hand using a microfiber wash cloth and Meguires car wash then spray on the synthetic detailer (while car is still wet) dry off with a dry microfiber cloth. The polish is only to SLICK UP THE FINISH. Sometimes the birds get to my car and I polish that off after the hand wash but once the suface is slick and sealed, evrything will wash right off. You are right though, you go polish off some of the paint when you do this so go easy, low RPM on your rotary polisher,light pressure and remember to seal it up ! this stuff really worked well for me, I used a Dewalt rotary polisher that I purchased here on Amazon for about $150.00 a year ago. The rotary polisher is a little more difficult to use than the orbital(much lower oscillations per second) and you might want to consider that first. I have seen those at Harbour Freight Sales for about $25.00. I hope that helps !
754085
Not sure what you are using it for, but if your planning on doing a permanent long term repair I would replace the metal. Por has been a big pain in the butt for me. I'm running into problems using it to restore a car right now. I wish I never used any of their products to be honest with you. That said if you are making a temporary repair it sticks to sand blasted or rusted metal. Scrape the flaky rust off and clean it with a wire wheel use there metal clean and apply. Granted there is a place and time for por15 but it's very hard to top coat and takes a long time for all the processes to be completed. There support line is usually pretty informative though. Not sure what you are using it for, but if your planning on doing a permanent long term repair I would replace the metal. Por has been a big pain in the butt for me. I'm running into problems using it to restore a car right now. I wish I never used any of their products to be honest with you. That said if you are making a temporary repair it sticks to sand blasted or rusted metal. Scrape the flaky rust off and clean it with a wire wheel use there metal clean and apply. Granted there is a place and time for por15 but it's very hard to top coat and takes a long time for all the processes to... » Read More Not sure what you are using it for, but if your planning on doing a permanent long term repair I would replace the metal. Por has been a big pain in the butt for me. I'm running into problems using it to restore a car right now. I wish I never used any of their products to be honest with you. That said if you are making a temporary repair it sticks to sand blasted or rusted metal. Scrape the flaky rust off and clean it with a wire wheel use there metal clean and apply. Granted there is a place and time for por15 but it's very hard to top coat and takes a long time for all the processes to be completed. There support line is usually pretty informative though. « Show Less
1740866
I agree with Brian W. answer that you do not want to use it on a very dirty car. Having said that, I only use it clean the black rims on my car after having washed them. This way after I dry off the car, I go back and detail the black rims using this product. I also use this product to clean the door jambs after car is washed. It's not concentrated and I do not dilute it with water.
716290
My experience with Flitz...it has been safe for the last 4 cars/trucks I've used it on ('97 Expedition, '00 Civic, '00 Excursion and '07 Jetta). I would advise applying by hand (no buffer) since buffers can overheat the paint and destroy the clear coat no matter what you are trying to apply. Flitz will help remove mild water stains and small scratches. My favorite success was when I had the battery on the '97 Expedition blow up when off-roading, leaving battery acid sprayed all over the engine compartment (had to buy a new oil cap as the acid chewed through it). While removing the battery I must have had some on my forearms as there was an imprint on the passenger fender where my arms were when I removed the battery. A good wash and run-through with Flitz and I couldn't tell you where the marks were. Keep in mind Flitz is a cleaner/polish and can remove wax. If you have heavy water spotting, Flitz may remove the 'haze' of the water spots, but won't get rid of the etched marks from the hard water (suggest a professional acid bath to remove that). As for black vinyl, I would keep Flitz away from that (tape it off while polishing the metal, etc.). If it's textured, you'll see hazing where the Flitz hits and is not fully removed. Not sure what you'll see on smooth vinyl.
487773
Works well. Increase dwell time from lacquer. Couple coats before scraping off. No water until end. Scraper, steel wool, then hot water and nylon brush, then pressure washer, then soap and water, then pressure washer. Faster the better when scrubbing off stripper. Commit to it otherwise you'll just have to do it twice. Oxalic acid if you get black spots.
2278033
Dave: the first day out of the box I cut 200 lf of champion metal roofing. oiled lightly when I put the tool away. next day cut 60 lf. works just great. I let the tool do the work and not force anything. I always oil my tools. as for how long the bit lasts I have yet to ware it out. I think it is a good idea to have a spare on hand just in case when your on a job.
1641721
I purchased the product with the idea it was a protectant, not a cleaner-protectant. In reading the literature on the box, it says to clean oxidized surfaces first with another of their products. I've used the product on both cars-thoroughly cleaned-with VERY good results, especially after a light buffing (buffer) a few days later. It's very easy to use-GREAT product!
1528204
Hi my friend, tell me about it!!! Worst product! Had the same problem with my new car. I finally took it to a car wash, and used a wand. By getting it wet, it became soft and pliable, allowing me to grab pieces at a time and tear it off. A lot of it peeled off just from the high water pressure. Sad product! It still takes time, but it will come off. Good luck!
783770
M105 and M205 was easier for me to work with. Plus it doesnt have all the fillers that the ultimate polish does. If you use the M105. You HAVE to follow it with the M205. You should only have to use the M105 ONCE on the car. Then wash it properly with the 2 bucket method so you don't put swirl markes back on the paint. If you use the M105 I recommend getting a dual action polisher its safe for beginners. I got mine from harbor freight. It works great just change the backing plate to a 5" and dont buy their pads I got mine from chemical guys.
477935
I'm not sure yet if its car wash safe... but..it scrapes every time I close the window. Very..Very annoying. Two of the windows wont even close without you physically moving the edge of the shade out of the way.
526590
Scott, I still really like this product. It has been 6 months now and I use speed shine every time I take my new car for a drive. First I use the California car duster to get the dust off and any bugs not glued on. Then spot clean with Griot's speed shine. It quickly removes the bugs, finger prints, and any tire overspray. On average I am done in under 3 minutes. I finish with the windows. If the shine is not super brilliant I use a little Zymol glaze to punch it up, usually once a month, after cleaning with griot's. Now I started with a good hand wash and waxed it with zymol wax to get a good base coat. It has been 45oo miles and 6 months later and I have not water washed my car or re-waxed and it looks show room clean. I keep the car in a garage. Just finishing spring and lots of bugs especially bees and it is still my favorite spot cleaner. I do use Griot's green spray cleaner when the bugs are especially thick (can't tell what color the car is under them) Seems to be a little better at dissolving mass bugs. But I use the less expensive Speed Shine almost everyday for quick touch ups. I only spot clean, sometimes use it on the wheels, and clean the front around the grill to keep my new car brilliant. I usually run the California duster over the car just before driving and it brings out the luster and gets rid of any dust. You can definitely see a difference. I am still getting lots of comments about how great the car looks (shiny and clean). I have not notice any scratches from cleaning the car this way. I use a soft hand and the rags that Griot's sells with the product. They are an improvement over cleaning clothes I have used in the past. Hope that helps.
1165782
This is better than the Ultimate- & Quick detailer, easier in use and adds a way better hydrophobic finish to the surface. One of the best quick detailer sprays on the market. And it smells great ;) Kind Regards
771523
The car washes didn't bother it. It got dirty though. It had a bit of stick on it and it would catch dirt. I would clean it with a little gasoline on a cloth.
2176077
The best product I've ever used is "Auto Glass Stripper" I think by Permatex. It requires elbow grease! You put this stuff on a wet sponge (SPONGE, not scrubbie!), and scrub the DRY glass in circular motion. Don't wet the glass first. It should be used prior to washing the rest of the car, because it will drip down here and there and can be a little messy. After you use it, water and rain will sheet off your windshield like you won't believe. It strips off silicone (RainX-y type products), bugs, road oil/tar, mud, general DIRT. You do have to keep re-doing it every few weeks, but your windshields will always be clean. The best product I've ever used is "Auto Glass Stripper" I think by Permatex. It requires elbow grease! You put this stuff on a wet sponge (SPONGE, not scrubbie!), and scrub the DRY glass in circular motion. Don't wet the glass first. It should be used prior to washing the rest of the car, because it will drip down here and there and can be a little messy. After you use it, water and rain will sheet off your windshield like you won't believe. It strips off silicone (RainX-y type products), bugs, road oil/tar, mud, general DIRT. You do have to keep re-doing it every few weeks, but... » Read More The best product I've ever used is "Auto Glass Stripper" I think by Permatex. It requires elbow grease! You put this stuff on a wet sponge (SPONGE, not scrubbie!), and scrub the DRY glass in circular motion. Don't wet the glass first. It should be used prior to washing the rest of the car, because it will drip down here and there and can be a little messy. After you use it, water and rain will sheet off your windshield like you won't believe. It strips off silicone (RainX-y type products), bugs, road oil/tar, mud, general DIRT. You do have to keep re-doing it every few weeks, but your windshields will always be clean. « Show Less
58605
I would be afraid to use abrasive cleaners, as they may ruin the finish. I soak the pan in hot water and residues remove quickly .
1575100
Interesting that you should ask. I never thought to use the machine on my car, but when I was using it on the driveway, a casual friend stopped by to visit. Her car was DIRTY as in it looked like it went through a mud rally. Every inch was covered in thick dried dirt. (It had been stolen and used in a robbery and was driven here and there, and abandoned, etc.) We took turns spraying off the dirt and it did a really good job. It was on a fairly heavy duty setting, and it took off all but the crud in the dents in the car. Amazing difference. I did not notice any of the paint missing, and her car was at my place a long time for cleaning it.I think you would be good to go if you used it on your car. Interesting that you should ask. I never thought to use the machine on my car, but when I was using it on the driveway, a casual friend stopped by to visit. Her car was DIRTY as in it looked like it went through a mud rally. Every inch was covered in thick dried dirt. (It had been stolen and used in a robbery and was driven here and there, and abandoned, etc.) We took turns spraying off the dirt and it did a really good job. It was on a fairly heavy duty setting, and it took off all but the crud in the dents in the car. Amazing difference. I did not notice any of the paint... » Read More Interesting that you should ask. I never thought to use the machine on my car, but when I was using it on the driveway, a casual friend stopped by to visit. Her car was DIRTY as in it looked like it went through a mud rally. Every inch was covered in thick dried dirt. (It had been stolen and used in a robbery and was driven here and there, and abandoned, etc.) We took turns spraying off the dirt and it did a really good job. It was on a fairly heavy duty setting, and it took off all but the crud in the dents in the car. Amazing difference. I did not notice any of the paint missing, and her car was at my place a long time for cleaning it.I think you would be good to go if you used it on your car. « Show Less
551719
I would like to make a suggestion. If you really want to clean out your engine and make it run and last longer, use this, /Cerma-Gas or Diesel-Ceramic-Engine-Treatment. It will cut through every bit of crud in your engine and completely coat the metal surface with ceramic coating. Cerma really works and results will blow your mind. It is not cheap, but well worth it. It can be found here on Amazon and on Ebay. It has made my car with 240,000 miles run better than new and it is a one time treatment. PTK