how do you know what size to choose for a two bedroom, 1 bath house with dishwasher, laundry room or does it matter with on demand electric water heat
366503
You can stack three of these things together and it's still not enough heat for one bathroom
366504
All on demand hot water heaters are rated GPM If you try to use more then the GPM system you buy ,it will not work out for you. I needed 1.5 GPM and I bot a 3 GPM and we are very happy with it.
366505
I depends on how many gallon a minute your fixtures will be using. At most this heater could only supply one of the items you list at the time. This heater is not for a whole house. A shower with a very low flow shower head uses 1 gallon a minute. This heater works best when it is located next to the item that is using the hot water so you don't waste energy heating up the water in a long run of pipe.
367749
The heater will work. Your hot water capacity is going to be about 3 gallons as when you use hot water, cold water enters the heater and even though it has a four gallon capacity, the water begins to cool as new water enters. It is not an "on demand" heater but one that heats slowly and stores the heat in a small tank. So your sink and dishwasher should be fine however the shower will have to be two minutes or less. If you insulate your piping the heat is not wasted and will last a small bit longer and save you some energy.
1420474
Typically there is a sizing chart on the box indicating the approximate wattage required by room square footage. PAW system allows for flexible voltage setting and heat output. The thermostat is optional, either on the heater or on the circuit.
1439280
This one works great for us but I would suggest for a room the size you mention I'd buy a bit bigger one, say the 18,000 BTU.
2262882
I believe this unit is too small for your needs. If this unit is intended to be used as a whole house water heater, then you need a larger unit.
1967670
Well, it's a point of use hot water heater. I currently have 3 units: 2 at a cottage where 1 is a small unit for the kitchen and the 2nd is a mid-size for the bathroom. In these installations I have never run out of hot water: showers (2 in a row), dish washing, etc. I have another one in my primary home located in a converted free standing garage which houses washer and dryer. This is a small unit: it is sufficient for my front loading washing machine for a 'hot' load. I think these units are the cats meow.... If I were to build a new house, I would install these units at every hot water source, either as independent heaters or as an adjunct to a house-wide heater. Can you tell I'm an advocate!!! Well, it's a point of use hot water heater. I currently have 3 units: 2 at a cottage where 1 is a small unit for the kitchen and the 2nd is a mid-size for the bathroom. In these installations I have never run out of hot water: showers (2 in a row), dish washing, etc. I have another one in my primary home located in a converted free standing garage which houses washer and dryer. This is a small unit: it is sufficient for my front loading washing machine for a 'hot' load. I think these units are the cats meow.... If I were to build a new house, I would install these units at every hot water... » Read More Well, it's a point of use hot water heater. I currently have 3 units: 2 at a cottage where 1 is a small unit for the kitchen and the 2nd is a mid-size for the bathroom. In these installations I have never run out of hot water: showers (2 in a row), dish washing, etc. I have another one in my primary home located in a converted free standing garage which houses washer and dryer. This is a small unit: it is sufficient for my front loading washing machine for a 'hot' load. I think these units are the cats meow.... If I were to build a new house, I would install these units at every hot water source, either as independent heaters or as an adjunct to a house-wide heater. Can you tell I'm an advocate!!! « Show Less
1992099
Depends on a lot of factors, especially insulation but assuming its well insulated I'd say a 10x10 room would be a max size. It's more of a supplementary heat than a main heater... unless you're heating a dog house! ;)
1207326
It is set up for hardwire AND requires a 30AMP breaker. Note that this is MORE than the typical 15 or 20 amp residential breaker, and therefore requires larger GUAGE wiring all the way back to the circuit. In addition, note that you will need to install the water restricting governor on the sink to limit the flow. If you are just washing hands, it is fine but if you're doing dishes...not so much. Good luck!
1686986
The water heater element is rated at 1650 watts and at 120 volts it will draw 13.75 amps. At alower voltage it will draw less because the resistance of the heating element is calabrated at 120 volts which is the standard for all power companies. A 20 amp circuit with 12 (awg) american wire-gauge wire is required. If you plan to connect it to an existing kitchen circuit please turn off all other appliances on that circuit. I recommend a dedicated circuit for this heater. After all this is done it works well for the kitchen sink and dishwasher. Enjoy. Al S. EE
2146916
Just an opinion here, Kindle Customer; If I were you and had 'that' kind of money I'd get kit anyway and 'go solar' for just part of the house--part of the kitchen comes to mind. Right off the top of my head I'd have somebody wire up the hot water heater, fridge, and maybe a light. Check the wattage for all three and see how it matches up. Plan B would be to wire up a window air conditioner. Futher, you need to remember solar panels work best with batteries hooked up to them.
1415896
You can either purchase one unit by itself for a certain price or purchase a 2 count which will represent two of these units or you can purchase four of the units. The size of unit does not change just the number of these that you wish to purchase for different areas of your home. I hope this helps!
1012971
On. But your heater will stay on all the time then... Unless your going to push the button everytime you want hot water, but depending on how often that is you may not have very hot water. I would suggest letting it heat two hours in early AM and two hours very late afternoon, this is what we do and with two people in house we always have hot water and it has saved us a lot of money on electricity. Good luck
1388655
Honestly mine is only used for maybe 20-25 minutes a day warming our Master bath, which runs colder than rest of house, while my wife takes a shower and dries off. I don't see any appreciable rise in electric bill in winter and my wife is very happy with how much it heats the room. It is a fairly large bathroom roughly 9 x 16' and seems to warm up pretty good. I doubt if I answered your question but we are pretty happy with ours.
2236018
I don't know. We have three people in house and my wife does laundry almost 24/7 (slightly exaggerated). Many times we've run laundry and a couple showers back to back and we've NEVER run out of hot water. MY water heater 10 years old. If you're going electric ..... this is my choice for water heaters.
1021075
I've had the same basic question for some time now. It's surprisingly hard to find out how much water a specific machine uses, but you could try researching that first. (Personally I had no luck.) One estimate that's out there is that a typical front loader uses 15 gallons of water. I figure slightly more than half of that is for the (cold) rinse, meaning in a worst case scenario (cotton whites) you would need about 7 gallons of hot water. That said, most water heaters start delivering cooler (i.e., warm) water as they approach their capacity. In other words if you have a 10 gallon tank the temperature might start dropping off significantly after using only 8 or 9 gallons of water. So you (I) might be better off with 10 or even a 20 gallon tank. My problem with all these small "point of use" tank type heaters is that they are low power, which means easy electric hookup but really long recovery times in terms of gallons per hour. My advice for someone building from scratch and wanting point of use for a laundry room, even with a slop sink, would be a small tank-less heater. You could use a 30 amp unit like the Bosch AE7.2, have limitless hot water with zero recovery time and about the same up front cost, though you would have to run however many feet 10/2 wire (relatively cheap) and add a 30 amp 2-pole breaker, also cheap if you have the room in your electrical panel. I wish someone made a high-power (30 AMP 220V) small-tank (10-gal or less) heater, but so far I haven't been able to find anything like that. That would be the best of both worlds, since experience has shown that small tankless heaters can be finicky, delivering bursts of cold water, needing to be reset occasionally, and are extremely sensitive to changes in water pressure, which is a big factor if you live in certain areas or are on a well like me.
899912
Satish, it depends on the appliance. The simple answer is that a 1 Kw transformer should do, and provide a 30% power safety margin. The 2KW power supply should provide about a 130% safety margin, which should be more than adequate.But that's not the whole story. If your appliance requires high startup current, as some heaters and electric motors do, you may need to buy a bigger transformer. Also, you need to verify that the appliance will work on 60 cycle power. Most will, but some sensitive or safety critical devices will not. If you can state the nature of the appliance, I might be able to give you a more definite answer. In the mean time, I hope that this helps. Satish, it depends on the appliance. The simple answer is that a 1 Kw transformer should do, and provide a 30% power safety margin. The 2KW power supply should provide about a 130% safety margin, which should be more than adequate.But that's not the whole story. If your appliance requires high startup current, as some heaters and electric motors do, you may need to buy a bigger transformer. Also, you need to verify that the appliance will work on 60 cycle power. Most will, but some sensitive or safety critical devices will not. If you can state the nature of the... » Read More Satish, it depends on the appliance. The simple answer is that a 1 Kw transformer should do, and provide a 30% power safety margin. The 2KW power supply should provide about a 130% safety margin, which should be more than adequate.But that's not the whole story. If your appliance requires high startup current, as some heaters and electric motors do, you may need to buy a bigger transformer. Also, you need to verify that the appliance will work on 60 cycle power. Most will, but some sensitive or safety critical devices will not. If you can state the nature of the appliance, I might be able to give you a more definite answer. In the mean time, I hope that this helps. « Show Less
1365652
As a rule of thumb use 10 watts of electric heating per square foot of room space. Using that factor, the 500 watt setting can heat a room that is 50 square feet. How well the room is insulated is also a factor. 10 watts per square foot assumes the room is well insulated. Use a higher setting if that is not the case. You can get additional information at this site http://homerepair.about.com/od/heatingcoolingrepair/ss/size_elec_htr.htm