Hey, all. Did you experience this with router other bits? Can I use another router bits for this like MLCS 8377 15-Piece Router Bit Set with Carbide-Tipped 1/2-Inch Shanks http://www.amazon.com/MLCS-8377-15-Pi... I'm curious and want to try with...
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I use a set of Steelex D3725 Carbide Tipped Router Bit Set, 1/2-Inch, 24-Piece
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You need to hold the button down you use to adjust the depth of the router bit. For tightening the bit I think the depth adjustment needs to be all the way out (shallowest router bit depth), or far enough out that you can fully tighten the router bit before the depth adjustment gets to it's limit.
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I haven't used the bearings on other bits because those other bits come with their own bearings. The bearings in this rabbet set should fit other bits that normally accept bearings but the best thing is to check the Whiteside website for the bearing # on the router bit you want to use it on. The rabbet set comes with 7 different size bearings.
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Most router bits sold in the US have either a 1/2" or 1/4" shank. Most larger routers have collets to accept either size shank. The smaller (trim) routers usually only accept 1/4" shanks. I believe the bit in question is 1/4", so the chances that it will fit your router are very good.
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I have only had luck using DeWalt bits. I tried some RotoZip bits but they are too big. I haven't tried anything else, so someone but have had better luck with some other bit.
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It sure does. I think this is a great set of router bits. I'm not a professional wood work, just a hobbits and they work great for me!
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No, the router bit is 1/2". I ordered a 1/4" bit from Whiteside Mfg found on Google
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I use the router in a cnc machine without the base and ring. (I don't know how you would do it). Did you loosen the thumb screw?
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Shank diameter of 1/4" are the only ones that will fit this router.Other important numbers: the instructions recommend not using CUTTING bits with a diameter greater than 1 3/8" (35mm), because it says it can "result in a hazard." Maximum RPMs for the router are 9000, and the instructions also say to use bits rated at least equal to those RPMs.
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I had the same problem, so I asked my husband and he was able to push the bit in, and now I'm able to put the other bits in myself. Although it works ok, the bits now come out sometimes when using the drill. Hope this helps.
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This is not for use with a router table. this item is clamped down to the piece of wood and using the drill bit provided with a drill to make evenly spaced holes. if you are planning to use this drill bit in router, this is extremely dangerous. if you are planning on insetting this device into your router table, it would be more than useless.
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Disregard my previous answer. I have the Skil Router and thought that is what I was answering the question about. Sorry about the mix up. I have no idea what size shank the B&D; router takes but it should say in the description of the item.
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Yes but this bit is huge. You could get by a smaller one. This needs to be used with a router table.
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No. This is a router, not a carving tool. Way to many RPM's to handle that small of shank with any pressure applied at all. Not only would it be a potential breakage of a bit shaft it would be a potential dangerous way to operate the tool. There is a reason that they do not offer it as an accessory...
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1/4" shank. actually amazon suggests only one size of bits for this router...
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A 1/2" router can accept a 1/4" collet, not vise versa (as far as I know). Your router can use either a 1/4" or a 1/2" shank bit. You need the collet to make that happen. 1/2" shank router bits use the 1/2" collet. Unscrew the collet nut from the router and remove. Replace with the 1/4" collet and use your 1/4" shank router bit of choice. I have the same router and purchased the 1/4" collet from Amazon. Changing collets isn't difficult. It's like changing the nozzle on a water hose... or something like that.
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I am sorry I do not. I have mine in a Hawk router table and have never had any troubles. It just uses the depth adjustor in the base. Maybe you have some saw dust built up in the threads. Does the locking clamp on the base still work?