I drive 30 miles each way to and from work. For the last 10 miles closes to home the roads don't get treated because of the surrounding land/water. I had snow tires but got rid of my old car, the car I have now has all season tires. The tires have good threading, but I'm concern the all season tires won't be enough to get me though those last 10 miles. Could I put the tires before I left work/home and dive the 30 miles? Or would I have to find a place to put the chains on when driving conditions are too dangerous to continue? Does anyone put on a lot of miles on these chains including driving on the highway? I drive 30 miles each way to and from work. For the last 10 miles closes to home the roads don't get treated because of the surrounding land/water. I had snow tires but got rid of... » Read More I drive 30 miles each way to and from work. For the last 10 miles closes to home the roads don't get treated because of the surrounding land/water. I had snow tires but got rid of my old car, the car I have now has all season tires. The tires have good threading, but I'm concern the all season tires won't be enough to get me though those last 10 miles. Could I put the tires before I left work/home and dive the 30 miles? Or would I have to find a place to put the chains on when driving conditions are too dangerous to continue? Does anyone put on a lot of miles on these chains including driving on the highway? « Show Less
49286
i have found that unless you're up in the mountains in deep snow, chains are a pain. they don't travel well on clear roads, so they are awkward if you have some good highway miles then off onto smaller snow-covered roads. in they end i found it better to fork out the extra bucks and get studded tires put on in the winter months.
49287
It's better to put it on when condition requires, you can't drive fast with the chain (any chains) and it's very noisy, I'm not sure if it will damage your car though.
49288
Im am no expert but I would put them on when the road gets bad, probably would end up beating them up on clear pavement thus premature wear on the chains. The max speed with chains on is probably not more than 15 to 25 mph, you should check with the manufactuers recommendations.
49289
No matter what brand of chains you buy they're not going to last if you run them on dry pavement. They'll last a little while but they're going to wear out fast.
49290
I would not put the chains on until I really needed them. Not sure how long they would last if you used them frequently. I only bought these chains because of travel from Washington to Colorado during the winter months. If I was driving in the snow on a daily basis, I would buy actual snow tires for the winter months. Good luck!
1333281
I still have less than 1,000 miles on mine, but in every review I've read, people typically start noticing wear on their tires tires between 4,000 miles and 6,000. Typically that is every day driving on pavement when it is hot, which softens the rubber. These are a Mud and Snow tire, that are rated at 8,000 pounds per tire at 80 psi, and those that have used them for mud and snow have got over 30,000 miles on these tires.
466646
Of course there is a speed limit, stay safe as the conditions are obviously quite bad.I have always been told to not drive more than 20 mph with chains, which seems reasonable.
186007
I live in Oregon and drive 365 days a year (well, maybe miss 3-4 days from snow and ice) and it rains 9 months out of the year in Oregon and I've never run into any issues with it. Works as good as the day I bought it a 2-3 years ago.
278092
Charles is correct but there is no simple answer. I would like to elaborate a bit further. The sticker on the pillar is/was correct for the original equipment tires given the following: 1-the exact size listed 2-for an average day temperature (0-90* F typically) 3-for the maximum weight listed So if you have an average car, on an average day, with tires that are of reasonable quailty, you should use the sticker on the door for the COLD inflation of your tires. Now, if the tires are a different size, you are traveling in extreme temperatures, and/or carrying at or near your maximum load rating, traveling long distances (in excess of 100 miles) or have poor quailty tires, your inflation will need to be adjusted for your conditions. This is because tires build up heat. The tires are designed for a certain amount of heat. When traveling in extreme conditions or with heavy loads, addtional air pressure is need to keep the tire from flexing too much. Too much flexing causes too much heat. This is why you see more tire treads and chunks on the freeway in the summer. So you ask, how much air to I add when I am in those "extreme" conditions. The answer sadly is that only the tire company's "load inflation table" can tell you. Every tire is different and every car, truck, trailer and RV is loaded differently. Each vehicle will need to be evaluated to what trip is, how much weight are you carrying, and the conditions expected. When we go on a family vacation, and have the vehicle "loaded up", we inflate closer to the tire's sidewall maximum PSI just to be safe. Regular day to day use of the vehicle, we run closer to the door pillar "sticker" weight.
1253608
What are you installing Slime into. I don't believe they recommend using slime for any tire that will be used on highways. It is mainly for construction equipment, farm equipment any off-road vehicle that does not require wheel balancing. It is not recommended,if I remember correctly, for any speeds over 35-45 mph. Yes it can be used on front tires. My commercial mower has it in all 4 tires. i have used Slime now for 5 months without having to add air to any tires. Previously I had to add air every use because of thorns and briars sometimes every couple hours. I can not believe I never installed Slime before this, what a timesaver. What are you installing Slime into. I don't believe they recommend using slime for any tire that will be used on highways. It is mainly for construction equipment, farm equipment any off-road vehicle that does not require wheel balancing. It is not recommended,if I remember correctly, for any speeds over 35-45 mph. Yes it can be used on front tires. My commercial mower has it in all 4 tires. i have used Slime now for 5 months without having to add air to any tires. Previously I had to add air every use because of thorns and briars sometimes every couple hours. I can not believe I never... » Read More What are you installing Slime into. I don't believe they recommend using slime for any tire that will be used on highways. It is mainly for construction equipment, farm equipment any off-road vehicle that does not require wheel balancing. It is not recommended,if I remember correctly, for any speeds over 35-45 mph. Yes it can be used on front tires. My commercial mower has it in all 4 tires. i have used Slime now for 5 months without having to add air to any tires. Previously I had to add air every use because of thorns and briars sometimes every couple hours. I can not believe I never installed Slime before this, what a timesaver. « Show Less
577585
I bought these chains for a friend. He said they were the same as the ones the dealer had originally sold him six years ago. His driveway is a quarter mile long. Six winters, quarter mile= good chains.
2135496
Keeping in mind the max recommended speed is 30mph, there is minimal vibration. I did drive on dry pavement for a short distance and I could definitely tell they were there. That would be true of any chains.
1297194
Yea but it goes away. I suggest driving over 55 for at least 30min or so. A little day trip.
1582646
Living in the great north west, I can say they're awesome. Drive through rain all winter long with no issues and trucked through snow with ease. As long as you respect the element, these tires will keep you happy and safe.
1017382
I got mine yesterday and after putting it together I hauled it with the base on just 20 feet out into the back yard. In my house this requires a slightly tricky turn near the back door and three steps down to the drive. I'm a 40 year old, fairly robust guy and I gotta say this one haul kind of wore me out and afterwards I was thinking I need to keep it in the garage instead of the house for easier movement. I don't think a 70 yr old would stand a chance. As others have said you can unhook the two springs and take the tube off and carry it in two separate trips but even the 40lb base might be a bit much for a senior. I would say go with the XT6 or smaller model instead. I got mine yesterday and after putting it together I hauled it with the base on just 20 feet out into the back yard. In my house this requires a slightly tricky turn near the back door and three steps down to the drive. I'm a 40 year old, fairly robust guy and I gotta say this one haul kind of wore me out and afterwards I was thinking I need to keep it in the garage instead of the house for easier movement. I don't think a 70 yr old would stand a chance. As others have said you can unhook the two springs and take the tube off and carry it in two separate trips but even the 40lb... » Read More I got mine yesterday and after putting it together I hauled it with the base on just 20 feet out into the back yard. In my house this requires a slightly tricky turn near the back door and three steps down to the drive. I'm a 40 year old, fairly robust guy and I gotta say this one haul kind of wore me out and afterwards I was thinking I need to keep it in the garage instead of the house for easier movement. I don't think a 70 yr old would stand a chance. As others have said you can unhook the two springs and take the tube off and carry it in two separate trips but even the 40lb base might be a bit much for a senior. I would say go with the XT6 or smaller model instead. « Show Less
892755
I had to run my car over 100 miles before the engine repair started working properly,but once i drove it over a 100 miles it ran better and sealed all the leaks. So my advice would be to drive it for as many miles as you can and see what happens after that.
14418
It should be, have a look at http://drivinglaws.aaa.com/laws/tire-chains/ When using tire chains, be sure that the conditions require them. Don't drive around with tire chains on if the roads are bare and you probably shouldn't be on the interstate with them. Only use them in the most demanding conditions.
1929288
DL, Here's a know-nothing but real-world response from a novice, 30-mile per week biker. I had the same question and took a chance. Assuming your tires have the same tread pattern as mine, there is an observable, sort of V-pattern series to the tread on mine. I mounted my tires so that the apex of each "V' points toward the front of the bike where the tires contact the ground. At the top of the tire, the V-pattern apex obviously points toward the rear of the bike. I have been riding with this configuration for 6 months now and observe no abnormal wear, vibration, or rolling resistance.Ken DL, Here's a know-nothing but real-world response from a novice, 30-mile per week biker. I had the same question and took a chance. Assuming your tires have the same tread pattern as mine, there is an observable, sort of V-pattern series to the tread on mine. I mounted my tires so that the apex of each "V' points toward the front of the bike where the tires contact the ground. At the top of the tire, the V-pattern apex obviously points toward the rear of the bike. I have been riding with this configuration for 6 months now and observe no abnormal wear, vibration, or rolling... » Read More DL, Here's a know-nothing but real-world response from a novice, 30-mile per week biker. I had the same question and took a chance. Assuming your tires have the same tread pattern as mine, there is an observable, sort of V-pattern series to the tread on mine. I mounted my tires so that the apex of each "V' points toward the front of the bike where the tires contact the ground. At the top of the tire, the V-pattern apex obviously points toward the rear of the bike. I have been riding with this configuration for 6 months now and observe no abnormal wear, vibration, or rolling resistance.Ken « Show Less
42115
I got only about 35,000 miles on my Mercedes rear wheel drive. My front tires probably will get 50,000 without any problem, but my rear tires don't have any thread left at 35,000 miles. Before you ask why I did not rotate my tires, this isn't possible because my rear tires are much wider than my front tires. Front and back tires are different sizes on many sport cars. On a Honda Accord, I think you would get at least 50K if you rotate your tires.
111325
Absolutely! I drove about 1500 miles, mostly highway, in a week with no issues at all. Just make sure it is tight and wrap up the ends of the ties so they don't flap around and you will be fine.
798831
Several factors involved. If your ground is level you should be OK. Ground wetness is also is a factor. Even a slight uphill with non aggressive tires might be a problem with wet ground. I have a Craftsman lawn tractor with a 25HP Kohler for pulling. I use winter snow chains on the tires which helps but I can still get stuck with wet ground. Tires dig in and the axle bottoms out. The ground must be very wet to make a significant difference which I am sure you already know. My property has slight hills so I have learned to go side to side instead of up and down. The wheel is very heavy which I like. I did my yard today as a matter of fact. After doing most of it I brought out the zero turn and cut. I didn't think it made much of a difference until I hit the part I DIDN"T DO with the roller. It was much rougher so the roller does make a difference. Go easy on the turns, avoid up hills if possible and I think you should be OK. If you have a pull behind wagon load it up with about 700 lbs and give it a test run. The individual hydrostatic transmissions might not be able to take the load. Possibly check with the manufacturer. So far it's a great wheel. Hope this helped.