Anyway to make this work with incandescent 12V halogens on electronic ballast? We gambled the $31 but it's not working.
47308
I TRIED to advise someone earlier that capacitative loads such as electronic ballasts for LEDs & compact-fluors would be PROBLEMATIC, so nobody should be surprised. The only way I can see to make such a thing work is to do one of the work-arounds I have tried and succeeded with: 1. Use on a circuit, such as a ceiling fan/lamp fixture, where the capacitative and inductive loads help "cancel" each other out... i.e., screw-in the fancy bulb all the way and set the fan to at least low speed at all times. THEN, the fan will always move a bit (but will NEVER attain full-speed performance at any mechanical setting), but the e-ballasted bulb will at least turn and OFF decisively. THIS is the problem I'm currently struggling with as I dread the approach of Summer, where I won't be able to "feed" my current-hungry ceiling fan thru that current-limiting 6696 wall-switch.... The other workaround yopu could try is to put a low-wattage incandescent bulb (resistive load) in as part of the usual combination of bulbs in the ceiling-fixture. Currently (no pun intended), I use none of the fancy bulbs and rely solely upon the li'l 20W tungsten bulb in the whole ceiling fixture-- works GREAT... dimming/set and everything. I've also found that one or so fancy bulbs will also operate "properly" in the ceiling-fan fixture WHEN and only when the incandescent bulb is also operating. The e-ballast will cause the fancy bulb to sputter-- even as the incandescent is dimming-- but at least it will get to full-on or full-off in a second or two. Such is not possible with the fancy bulb(s) comprising the total electric load on the e-ballast alone. It's a bad, caveman-ish design; the older versions (with the 4-batt remotes) were less difficult... bulb-sputter and never a full-turn-off without the fan being at least on "low," but at least they would allow FULL-speed operation of the fan.... I'm working on the problem... thinking of a dual-switch solution for the fan only... so stay tuned....
2145226
Swap the ballast to the other side. If the problem follows the ballast. Then the ballast is bad. Be sure ALL the connections are good including the battery connection.
61360
No, Will only work with Halogen or Incandescent loads (bulbs). FOR LED, you need a DC driver, try Eversale (illuminous) 12V, 12W = EV-12V-1000-12D, 26W = EV-12V-2200-33D, 48W = EV-12V-4000-60D. Also 24V versions 12W = EV-24V-500-12D, 26W = EV-24V-1100-33D, 48W = EV-24V-2000-60D
275938
It didn't work in mine. I had to send it back. It really would have been better...less hassle...to just spend the extra $3 and get the bulb from Brookstone. I ended up having to replace my ballast too. It really diodn't last that long, considering how much the mirror cost. Probably 30% of what a fluorescent fixture's life should actually be.
635403
What type of bulb are you using? The lamp works best with regular incandescent or the newest dimmable LED bulbs. CFL's are not compatible with this lamp
1464175
I had the same problem with my switch trying to use it for a 12 volt outdoor light. Power going in, light fixture works when connected directly to the battery, but timer does not work. I am past the 30 days, so.....
128969
Good day, I purchased some of this model LED tube from this particular company and the tubes work well. Realize that LED fixtures are NOT compatible with fluorescent ballasts, so you cannot plug them directly into a pre-existing fixture. The ballast must be removed or you may "hot wire" them around the ballast. Different manufacturers wire differently. There are four prongs: two on each end. You only need two of those prongs. Either the two on one end or the same two on opposite ends. I am currently on the road, so I cannot look at this particular tube to tell you how to wire it, but if you say you have "hot-wired" and it works, you have picked the correct wiring configuration. Yes, it is wired directly, no ballast. That's the way LEDs work. Hopefully this message has been some help or, at least, reassures you. Good luck. Bob
999044
I used an electronic dimmer switch and it works like a charm I got mine at Ace Hardware for less than $20. Remember you are controlling the power to the Ballast not the Lamp
1572272
I would have to agree with DB ,the current ballast would not start the 250 watt ed28
791726
!!! NO !!! Nor can you use a Different Wattage Lamp! Ofcourse, I guess you could take all the "Ballast Stuff" out and then replace with just a "Regular Bulb"
1724891
Yup! I've used both digital and analog ballasts and the bulbs don't really matter much. If your current ballasts work with your set up (as in plays nice with sensors/daytime/auto-on modes) and the wattage matches; this should be a plug and play installation. There's plenty of places on google that can help you out if you get stuck. Best of luck!
1643654
Are your halogen lamps 12 volts DC? If they are this controller would work up to 95 watts total. Add the total wattage of all the lamps and if it falls within the parameters I have given, it will work and it will reduce the heat.
2240676
Check to make sure it is the right one for your bulbs. If it isn't putting out enough voltage to fire the bulb and then maintain it, you may have the wrong ballast or the wrong bulbs. That's what happened to me....I ordered the a D2R bulbs when I really needed D4R. Still have them if you need D2Rs New...give you a great deal on them.
1025009
Gabriel, I'm not sure since we bought a large amout of incandescent bulbs. You could try it. Or contact the manufacturer or seller and ask them. Good luck.
2176220
This bulb will not work with an electronic ballast, only a magnetic HPS. This is a conversion bulb from HPS to MH.
1424755
Yes it will work but ballast won't last as long I lost a digital ballast never used them again
869232
I ask my husband. He said there is no electronic ballast. He would know since he is and electrician.