what if my existing attic vent holes are 2 and 1/8" they pop out when I try to put them in. I'm considering caulking to fill the gap. Advice welcome
53406
As long as the loaner edge is larger then the hole, caulk will hold them in place
53407
I got a pair of tin snips and made 4 cuts half way in the cylinder in a cross pattern. Then bent them in or out as needed with a plier. Another option is to wrap electrical tape around the cylinder. Hand press only on the edges if possible. Louvers are very soft and even a rubber mallet will seal them shut and will have to reopen them with a screwdriver or other flat edge tool.
1617559
They come in 2 sections - one is angled down to fit the back of the vent. The two sections together extend out to about 36". If you need it longer than that you could buy another one and cut off the angle part, then attch them all together and you'd end up with another 36".
1237499
You will have to have someone bore out the existing hole to the 2 1/8" diameter. Bore kits are available at any big box store
542673
There is not an explanation of vent space required on the back. I suggest to call the factory and inquire.
2099653
I installed a custom circular 15" vent with wide louvers angled at about 45 degrees down. This setup produced a large amount of blow back. In order to improve the exit flow, I straightened out the louvers which allowed more air to vent outside. I am still getting a small amount of blow back so it seems the 15" vent is not large enough.
2048695
This would cover the opening of 2..maybe 2.5, but with that much of a gap, water, bugs etc could easily come right in.. It wouldn't be a very tight seal.. mine is closed with less than 1/2" of a gap.. You could make some kind of a ledge of raised up epoxy cemet or something like that to make it level just where it closes.. Not sure about exactly what you have there.. This gasket/seal is your best shot as I had to search quite a while to find anything this good.. Most of what's out there is cheap foam rubber and nails.. This product is great but takes some work to modify the aluminum to fit your application.. I hope some of that helps.. This would cover the opening of 2..maybe 2.5, but with that much of a gap, water, bugs etc could easily come right in.. It wouldn't be a very tight seal.. mine is closed with less than 1/2" of a gap.. You could make some kind of a ledge of raised up epoxy cemet or something like that to make it level just where it closes.. Not sure about exactly what you have there.. This gasket/seal is your best shot as I had to search quite a while to find anything this good.. Most of what's out there is cheap foam rubber and nails.. This product is great but takes some work to modify the aluminum to... » Read More This would cover the opening of 2..maybe 2.5, but with that much of a gap, water, bugs etc could easily come right in.. It wouldn't be a very tight seal.. mine is closed with less than 1/2" of a gap.. You could make some kind of a ledge of raised up epoxy cemet or something like that to make it level just where it closes.. Not sure about exactly what you have there.. This gasket/seal is your best shot as I had to search quite a while to find anything this good.. Most of what's out there is cheap foam rubber and nails.. This product is great but takes some work to modify the aluminum to fit your application.. I hope some of that helps.. « Show Less
235657
I cut mine into 6" lengths of 36" and it sticks to a vertical vent. The whole 24x36" on a vent that is ceiling mount may be a problem but it would depend on how much surface it has to cling to. I have three sheets left of 6x36 and everything I have flung them on sticks and they're all painted. Old lead paint may also be an issue but I wouldn't know as we have few old structure in my area and lead based paint was out lawed many years before this home was built.
1135709
The vent holes are 6" (2) top left, (1) bottom left, fan size i used a 410cfm which is a over kill. gd luck grownin
1390249
I'd use a silicone caulk as I expect the gaps are too big for this product.
886168
John... I had the same problem as I want to put the stove in my cabin and the chimney must extend higher than the roof. I know of no place to purchase the same size pipe as with the stove so my solution was to go to my local muffler shop and have him custom fabricate a section of 2 1/2 inch exhaust pipe to my specs. They were able to match the diameter of the pipe to the existing pipe by flaring the ends. Keep in mind though that in order to maintain the proper draft, especially in cold weather, the length outside the house must be insulated. This is very important. Wrap the chimney with fiberglass matting and protect it against rain water and you will be all set. Hope this helps you. Phil John... I had the same problem as I want to put the stove in my cabin and the chimney must extend higher than the roof. I know of no place to purchase the same size pipe as with the stove so my solution was to go to my local muffler shop and have him custom fabricate a section of 2 1/2 inch exhaust pipe to my specs. They were able to match the diameter of the pipe to the existing pipe by flaring the ends. Keep in mind though that in order to maintain the proper draft, especially in cold weather, the length outside the house must be insulated. This is very important. Wrap the chimney with... » Read More John... I had the same problem as I want to put the stove in my cabin and the chimney must extend higher than the roof. I know of no place to purchase the same size pipe as with the stove so my solution was to go to my local muffler shop and have him custom fabricate a section of 2 1/2 inch exhaust pipe to my specs. They were able to match the diameter of the pipe to the existing pipe by flaring the ends. Keep in mind though that in order to maintain the proper draft, especially in cold weather, the length outside the house must be insulated. This is very important. Wrap the chimney with fiberglass matting and protect it against rain water and you will be all set. Hope this helps you. Phil « Show Less
505614
The round part fits in the hole, but the screw holes on these do not align with the old holes - you will have to drill 2 more holes. Don't know why. Other replacements I bought had the screw holds on the door side in the center of the place. These holes are offset just a tad. Other than that they fit. For new installation they should be fine-- I just don't want to be re-drilling all the time. Actually I want all these euro-hinges gone from the house, but there must be 60 of them all told. Seems like at least one or two have broken springs at any given time and make a cracking noise when opening and closing the door. I hate them... but hey, that's just me. The round part fits in the hole, but the screw holes on these do not align with the old holes - you will have to drill 2 more holes. Don't know why. Other replacements I bought had the screw holds on the door side in the center of the place. These holes are offset just a tad. Other than that they fit. For new installation they should be fine-- I just don't want to be re-drilling all the time. Actually I want all these euro-hinges gone from the house, but there must be 60 of them all told. Seems like at least one or two have broken springs at any given time and make a cracking noise when... » Read More The round part fits in the hole, but the screw holes on these do not align with the old holes - you will have to drill 2 more holes. Don't know why. Other replacements I bought had the screw holds on the door side in the center of the place. These holes are offset just a tad. Other than that they fit. For new installation they should be fine-- I just don't want to be re-drilling all the time. Actually I want all these euro-hinges gone from the house, but there must be 60 of them all told. Seems like at least one or two have broken springs at any given time and make a cracking noise when opening and closing the door. I hate them... but hey, that's just me. « Show Less
164987
You will have to drill 2 holes 3/8 inch diameter above your existing hole and in it goes.
2246753
You will need a hole somewhere to allow vented air to flow through, either on opposite wall or could be on same wall but not too close to the vent. The vent installs by removing one block -- or close to it - you have to remove enough to allow the fan and controls to fit through.
1353771
These are designed to go in an unfinished attic. There isn't a way to get them through a hole in a ceiling if you remove the can. They would not fold up and they were too high for me to pt the subfloor back over they without cutting away about 1 1/2" all the way around the bottom. I was only putting them over 3" cans so it worked for me. If I was doing it again I would buy IC rated cans and use led bulbs.
1452488
Always vent a little. Have a professional do the install unless you already have prepared gas outlet.
815585
I installed mine as a bathroom exhaust vent. I'd advise to check with the retailer on that question.
480982
Check the length and be sure. I had to cut almost an inch off the stem and then re-drill the air vent holes. Not easy.