I am going to trim out cabinets with faux wood trim with the inside made of poly foam. Which blade best for this in 10" miter saw"
66113
I've not used it for poly foam but I can tell you the saw makes clean cuts with melamine-coated particle board. I am using a DeWalt portable saw.
66114
I would recommend a thin kerf blade for that - 60 tooth is a good choice but look into a frued diablo (spelling?) for that.
66115
Any wood cutting blade would work. The more teeth a blade has , the less ripout there is. This mainly applies to wood but I imagine it would be the same with the foam backed trim. Get a 50 or 60 tpi blade
734611
I have the Incra MITER1000SE. It fits the groove and works well. Most cuts I still use the miter gauge that comes with the saw though. The MITER1000SE is overkill I think.
681482
I have not tried this blade on a machine that uses fiber blades I would not reccomend using it with a wood cutting miter saw. It seems that the saw used for this blade turn slower and have more torque than the chop saws that use fiber blades. If it does work there are several advantages such as less dust, a more accurate cut, less heat, and lasts a lot longer. Just make sure the material is clamped tight in the vice, this blade tends to grab the metal and move it in the vice, which results in broken teeth. It cuts thin and thick metal quickly, no problem. One more thing they are very noisy.
1775773
Sure. And what works best IMHO is an electric carving knife. Cutting foam with those is the only reason I keep one around.
1712238
A section of old hack saw blade will work well. If necessary one could use a knife if nothing else is available. I prefer not to use my knife in such a way.
617346
I wouldn't count on the Dremel Saw-Max to cut any 2-by materials. It's best use in my experience is for cutting flush to walls and other edge-cut projects. It grinds the materials and dulls fairly quickly. Since the "cut" in fairly shallow, it doesn't do well on materials that are thicker than an inch or less. A circular saw works well, like a 7-1/4" blade, hand-held, general purpose electric saw. If you're cutting lots of 2x2's in a cut-off fashion (as opposed to ripping length-wise) an inexpensive miter saw works well. Hope this helps. I use the Dremel Saw-Max strictly as a flush cut saw. I have two of them and one Roto brand saw of similar design. The Roto is toughest of the two. Hope this helps. I wouldn't count on the Dremel Saw-Max to cut any 2-by materials. It's best use in my experience is for cutting flush to walls and other edge-cut projects. It grinds the materials and dulls fairly quickly. Since the "cut" in fairly shallow, it doesn't do well on materials that are thicker than an inch or less. A circular saw works well, like a 7-1/4" blade, hand-held, general purpose electric saw. If you're cutting lots of 2x2's in a cut-off fashion (as opposed to ripping length-wise) an inexpensive miter saw works well. Hope this helps. I use the Dremel Saw-Max strictly as a... » Read More I wouldn't count on the Dremel Saw-Max to cut any 2-by materials. It's best use in my experience is for cutting flush to walls and other edge-cut projects. It grinds the materials and dulls fairly quickly. Since the "cut" in fairly shallow, it doesn't do well on materials that are thicker than an inch or less. A circular saw works well, like a 7-1/4" blade, hand-held, general purpose electric saw. If you're cutting lots of 2x2's in a cut-off fashion (as opposed to ripping length-wise) an inexpensive miter saw works well. Hope this helps. I use the Dremel Saw-Max strictly as a flush cut saw. I have two of them and one Roto brand saw of similar design. The Roto is toughest of the two. Hope this helps. « Show Less
809083
Depends on what you are cutting. Any standard reciprocating saw blades will work in this Bosch unit, you don't have to spend a ton of money. Again, it really depends on what your are cutting and the type of cut desired. Good luck.
385792
Eventually you'll find a dado blade set helpful. With the ever shrinking size of plywood today,I'd suggest you first use a router. You should have at least a two amp router that accepts a 1/2" shaft. Make a "t" square guide to keep your cut straight. With the routeryou can make any width cut but will be limited to maybe a 3/4" depth.If you are making dadoes in a lot of material a dado saw set will be faster but you'llfind it challenging to accommodate the weird plywood sizes. Your saw also needs the power touse the dado set as well as the arbor length so you can add or remove blades and or shimsto cut the dimension you desireMartin Eventually you'll find a dado blade set helpful. With the ever shrinking size of plywood today,I'd suggest you first use a router. You should have at least a two amp router that accepts a 1/2" shaft. Make a "t" square guide to keep your cut straight. With the routeryou can make any width cut but will be limited to maybe a 3/4" depth.If you are making dadoes in a lot of material a dado saw set will be faster but you'llfind it challenging to accommodate the weird plywood sizes. Your saw also needs the power touse the dado set as... » Read More Eventually you'll find a dado blade set helpful. With the ever shrinking size of plywood today,I'd suggest you first use a router. You should have at least a two amp router that accepts a 1/2" shaft. Make a "t" square guide to keep your cut straight. With the routeryou can make any width cut but will be limited to maybe a 3/4" depth.If you are making dadoes in a lot of material a dado saw set will be faster but you'llfind it challenging to accommodate the weird plywood sizes. Your saw also needs the power touse the dado set as well as the arbor length so you can add or remove blades and or shimsto cut the dimension you desireMartin « Show Less
885210
it's incredibly smooth on everything i've cut. i've cut oak, pine, poplar and ash. I recently went to cabinet making shop and they use this same blade in all their saws. They're great blades!
1720338
6 1/2" saw blade, suggest finish saw blades for smooth cuts. Rough cuts get jammed.
2143785
I use a ceramic 7 for everything almost, depends on the length you want though, before buying read what the blade cuts on length.
1472951
I've only used it on foam-core board but it does slice cleanly through all the layers and slice into the mat board I use to prevent the wood support from being marred. It is easy to use with a straight rail that is anchored somehow. The foam-core I use for model building. I would expect you to go through blades fairly fast but that happens any time you want super-crisp cuts with thin blades.
1166305
Sir, in my humble opinion there is no blade anywhere close to the blade I have. I do make a lot with plain plywood, the same blade has inadvertently been used to cut a few nails and it still cuts quietly and sandpaper smooth. I have probably cut 20,000 feet of assorted materials hardwoods (even some Yarrow)and use it each day. All I have done is clean it three times. Hope this helps you. Boyd Jackson 71 yo woodbutcher frm Tx
881779
I just tested it on some 1/8" foam and 1/4" foam and it worked fine. Keep the blade sharp to prevent material from sliding and you should be fine, Just a heads up - this does not come with extra blades so you may want to consider ordering them at the same time.
387552
Exactly. I have a 4 1/2 inch porta cable with a 3/8" arbor. The "knock out" that comes with this blade fits perfectly on that arbor and the blade (in my opinion) cuts better than the original porta cable blades costing more than twice as much, and I say that from over 45 years experience as a cabinet maker.
1162124
As well as a hand plane, but much faster and taking less muscle. The surface will have a slight dimple effect because the planer blades rotate instead of slice in the direction of the hand plane movement. Bit more sanding afterwards. I have used power planers for this on red oak, maple and pine and it worked quite well.
448592
I wouldn't hesitate to try it. The cut is very close. The blade is thinner than most saw blades. It is flexible so you can get it to lie flush against the surface. There is a medium tooth side and a fine tooth side. You may require a tad of sanding or a sharp razor knife to finish if there is a splinter left. edit: I see the suggestion that it may be too large for flush cutting. I would say that all depends on how tight your work space is. I have cut many delicate materials with this saw and it does everything I've ever tried t on. That said, if you have a huge saw budget, get as many saws as you wnat. This one does a lot for one tool. I wouldn't hesitate to try it. The cut is very close. The blade is thinner than most saw blades. It is flexible so you can get it to lie flush against the surface. There is a medium tooth side and a fine tooth side. You may require a tad of sanding or a sharp razor knife to finish if there is a splinter left. edit: I see the suggestion that it may be too large for flush cutting. I would say that all depends on how tight your work space is. I have cut many delicate materials with this saw and it does everything I've ever tried t on. That said, if you have a huge saw budget, get as many saws... » Read More I wouldn't hesitate to try it. The cut is very close. The blade is thinner than most saw blades. It is flexible so you can get it to lie flush against the surface. There is a medium tooth side and a fine tooth side. You may require a tad of sanding or a sharp razor knife to finish if there is a splinter left. edit: I see the suggestion that it may be too large for flush cutting. I would say that all depends on how tight your work space is. I have cut many delicate materials with this saw and it does everything I've ever tried t on. That said, if you have a huge saw budget, get as many saws as you wnat. This one does a lot for one tool. « Show Less