Will this strip 30 year old varnish and stain from inside doors, moulding, and trim work? How about sand hardwood plywood to shelving quality?
55196
Thank you for your question. THe ROS20VSK with the correct sanding sheets and speed setting will do well for many applications such as stripping old varnish and stain as well as sanding hardwood plywood to shelving quality. The sander is supplied with a 'soft' backing pad for multipurpose applications. If you have further questions please feel free to contact our Bosch Customer Service Representatives at 1-877-BOSCH-99 (1-877-267-2499).
55197
The Bosch 5 in ROS20VSK sander a really excellent tool for flat-ish surfaces 5 inches across or more.... So maybe some parts of doors and flat panels. But it is a better prep sander than a finish removal tool. If you have mouldings and door panels you will want a detail sander... after a chemical strip. There area lot of eco-freindly chem strippers out there, so don't fool around with sanding old varnish off detailed parts. Look into multifunction tools at Harbor freight. harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=multifunction+tool One they offer has variable speed and comes in a kit with a triangle detail sanding head. Better than the Fein Tool which costs a ridiculous amount more. I know. I'm a pro and I use my HF tool all the time on jobs with guys who have Fein Tools...HF is a Great tool for the money. Skip the bigger sanders listed as "detail sanders". They are too large You will want to cut your own sandpaper for the detail heads from 3X sandpaper hook-n-loop disks. 3x sandpaper is excellent stuff so if you buy this Bosch RO sander get some 3X discs for it too.
2249526
No. But I have taken a piece of 3/4 plywood I had laying around and sanded and stained it and it works great. Not to heavy so I can lean it up out of the way until needed again.
1859235
I think no matter what product you use to clean the cabinets, you need to sand and prime.....sorry, I know that takes more time:(. Chalk paint may be worth considering.
813482
I had shiny wood gloss stain (I can not remember exact) and it went on without sanding at all! I also had paint on one of my cabinets and it went on that as well! It is still on and still looking great after at least 2 months!
498226
Depends on the extent of the damage. This product wipes on, shines the wood with a dark wax, but fill in dings beautifully -- they actually look good, like old English furniture. Large areas can be treated, then wiped and lightly polished. The result of this stuff on furniture is nothing short of amazing. I build furniture and use it on everything I make regardless of the stain color. And dark brown is the only shade I use. I know that 70's woodwork and Briwax might make it look more classic and like antique furniture. But if there are only a few dings a filler stick in the right color might be enough but wont give you the incredible sheen of Briwax. Hope this helps. Depends on the extent of the damage. This product wipes on, shines the wood with a dark wax, but fill in dings beautifully -- they actually look good, like old English furniture. Large areas can be treated, then wiped and lightly polished. The result of this stuff on furniture is nothing short of amazing. I build furniture and use it on everything I make regardless of the stain color. And dark brown is the only shade I use. I know that 70's woodwork and Briwax might make it look more classic and like antique furniture. But if there are only a few dings a filler stick in the right color... » Read More Depends on the extent of the damage. This product wipes on, shines the wood with a dark wax, but fill in dings beautifully -- they actually look good, like old English furniture. Large areas can be treated, then wiped and lightly polished. The result of this stuff on furniture is nothing short of amazing. I build furniture and use it on everything I make regardless of the stain color. And dark brown is the only shade I use. I know that 70's woodwork and Briwax might make it look more classic and like antique furniture. But if there are only a few dings a filler stick in the right color might be enough but wont give you the incredible sheen of Briwax. Hope this helps. « Show Less
1919418
I have used this product on wood and metal. I used 2 good coats. I worked great on my fridge and wood molding. On the metal fridge it holds up great to heavy wear, but i dont know how it would do on the seat part (metal rivets and all). If you use this product on the legs and back rest it would work beautifully. I think this should be the jewel in any crazy diy decorator (like me, lol)! I love it but make sure you let it dry completely between coats and work in a well ventilated room for a few tips. Cheap foam brushes work great and remember to keep brush stroke level and in the same direction. Good luck. I have used this product on wood and metal. I used 2 good coats. I worked great on my fridge and wood molding. On the metal fridge it holds up great to heavy wear, but i dont know how it would do on the seat part (metal rivets and all). If you use this product on the legs and back rest it would work beautifully. I think this should be the jewel in any crazy diy decorator (like me, lol)! I love it but make sure you let it dry completely between coats and work in a well ventilated room for a few tips. Cheap foam brushes work great and remember to keep brush stroke level and in the same... » Read More I have used this product on wood and metal. I used 2 good coats. I worked great on my fridge and wood molding. On the metal fridge it holds up great to heavy wear, but i dont know how it would do on the seat part (metal rivets and all). If you use this product on the legs and back rest it would work beautifully. I think this should be the jewel in any crazy diy decorator (like me, lol)! I love it but make sure you let it dry completely between coats and work in a well ventilated room for a few tips. Cheap foam brushes work great and remember to keep brush stroke level and in the same direction. Good luck. « Show Less
1969498
There are probably better and cheaper solutions for moulding like tongue oil or linseed oil. Van's works well on unfinished wood furniture, so I'm sure it would also work on unfinished moulding just make sure you have enough and it does have to be reapplied over time.
2160345
with any product they will tell you to try it in a spot that wont matter so much if it strips off the varnish. will it strip off the varnish or finish? if it does it should be sold in a different catagory. like all cabinet finishes over time they start to flake and you wont see this until you wipe it away, same thing happens when you use an area over and over it gets dirty you clean it and your down to the wood nothing you can do about that put keep the cabinets protected with products like scotts furniture polish which is a good cleaner to boot
1887384
You will want the surface to be as smooth and non-porous as possible and plywood usually won't work. You will need to make sure it is as smooth as possible and perhaps has a coat of paint. The paint should also have 2 weeks to fully cure.
2260513
I think what may suit your needs better is BriWax. Use it with 0000 steel wool - both to put on and rub off. Use a clean piece of steel wool after this process and your cabinets will polish up beautifully. I use it on all my older furniture to remove dirt or dullness that comes with age. It comes in colors but I always use the neutral/clear "color." It will take some "elbow grease" but you won't be disappointed.
1004707
If you were to use this on varnished surfaces, it might tend to seat on the surface and get gummy. It is best used on open grained surfaces. It is really a form of rub on varnish that needs to penetrate the surface. I have had very good results using it on old, cracked varnished surfaces like you would have on antique pieces. Use several light coats, never try to put a thick coat down. Rub the excess off between coats after it has sit for 15 to 30 minutes. I have a boat with an open grained teak interior that I use this on and it looks great. I have built numerous pieces of furniture made from pine, teak, cherry and other woods and find that multiple coat of this (6+) provide a very attractive finish that holds up well with a single recoat every 6 months to a year instead of wax or furniture polish.
696706
Yeah, I did on some of my interior trim and it worked great. Just do it in low humidity, use the second buff pad, and give it time to dry before touching it. If interior is all you need though, I used some cheap vinyl polish/protectant and that works really well for me on my interior surfaces as well. This stuff does wonders for my exterior vinyl though. I used it once a year ago and it still looks great after going through car washes and mag chloride.
87135
I've used it many times over varnished wood, and had very good results. Most people, these days, seem to skip the middle steps of sanding and wiping down, and are pleased enough with the results. I prefer to do it old school and reap the benefits. Even 1-2-3 will adhere better if you break the gloss, first. Your end results are only as good as your preparation. If the chair is old, it may be shellac and not actually varnish. Zinsser also makes a shellac-based product called B-I-N. Both work really well.
1240323
The packaging says (as I recall) it's good for veneers, formica, etc . I think even metal. I think it should work for any material/surface.
1313897
No, I would not! It works perfectly on smooth, unfinished furniture - even unpainted but I would not recommend it for reclaimed would and certainly not crevices or chips in the wood. I have no idea what to use except for a good power sander and work down from several grades of sandpaper until it is more manageable.
1909545
I applied this to older oak cabinets which had uneven levels of polyurethane remaining. I did a good cleaning with an all purpose spray cleaner and then a light sand with a sanding block. We have finished 3 bathroom cabinets at this point and the finish is great on all of them using this same process.
2112004
Hello Angel. Yes. I cut through 3/4" thick TREATED plywood, which is a really dense and heavy plywood because of all the chemicals in it. Treated plywood also tends to hold more moisture than regular plywood, at times it even feels damp to the touch, and two sheets stacked together with out some kind of divider between them will actually "sweat". So I really thought I would have had a problem cutting it, but this tool did great. Just make sure you use the cutter that is specifically for wood. With the correct bit you should be able to cut through any thickness of plywood. Hardwood may cause problems if you cut anything thicker than 3/4". I have not tried it in a full 1" thick hardwood board; as I have only cut ply. Just take your time, don't rush the cuts and clean them out often if you are making thin and curved cuts. If there is a high moisture content in the ply, the sawdust will build up in the cuts. I just repass the bit along the inside of the cut and the spinning bit can be used to clean the area. Please protect your eyes, wear goggles -- I tend to lean down really close to the area as I cut as my eyes are old and getting bad! Good luck with your project -- oh and this tool can be used just like a small dremmel brand tool. I needed to cut some really big nails out of some old wood and I tried one of my metal cutting disk from my dremmel and it worked great. So you can use this for a lot of different things.