>

Recently picked up a Keychron Q10 and I'm wondering if anyone knows what the spacebar size is.  Looks like maybe 2U or 3U but I'm unsure as this is my first mechanical.  Any help would be appreciated. 
Thanks!
What stabilizers does the community recommend right now? I have heard Durock V2s are no longer "the thing" and have heard TX V3s and Staebies come up often. Doing a Mode Sonnet build with tactile switches and a POM plate if that were to affect the answers. >

Honestly there are "it was perfectly fine" and "it was an absolute nightmare" stories for all of those, so my recommendation is get whichever is more accessible/fits your color scheme better and just be sure to balance the wires before assembly + don't over-mod to start (just wire balance+lube is enough in most cases) + test them on the PCB before installing the plate/all the switches. >

Oh wow just looked up wire balancing. Never heard of that, thank you! >

Hi y'all. I've posted about this a couple of times now, and I appreciate the guidance I've gotten so far. I'm looking for a high quality (comparatively), wireless 1800 keyboard that's either prebuilt or barebones and requires only keycaps and switches. I've gone through quite a few, but it's hard to get an idea for the quality of a lot of these, especially when I can't find much coverage on some. Here's my shortlist so far, and I'd love any feedback on these, or additions to them:
​
Keebmonkey 1800 V2.0: Barebones, wireless, backlit, seems to be well made. My gut says I'd prefer something not plastic, but I know that's not necessarily an indicator of quality.
​
Yunzii IF98 Pro: Again, the only knock on this is that it's a plastic body, and I don't know if that should count as a knock. I also don't love the white body, but the others are transparent and that's not my vibe.
​
Ajazz AK966: This one seems good, but it's probably the one I've done the least reading on. Another plastic body.
​
Dareu A98 Pro: I can't find *anything* about this board. It seems nice, and I'm intrigued by the LED screen. Plastic body (I think).
​
Everglide SK98: Another barebones, I think this one ticks all of my boxes, as it's the only aluminum board on my list. But it's more than $200 just for the barebones kit, and that seems pretty steep. I can't find very much about it, but if the quality really is that much better than these other options, I'd consider it.
​
Akko PC98B Plus Air: I know a lot of folks speak highly of the 3098B, and this seems to be very similar. Maybe it's a slightly newer model? Not sure. I like the aesthetic of this better than the non-Air version. Another plastic body.
​
Leopold FC980MBT: This one isn't backlit, which is pretty high on my list of priorities, but I included it because every single person out there says that Leopold makes the best prebuilts. If it's head and shoulders better than these other options, I'd consider it despite the lack of backlighting. 
​
The only other consideration I'm making is that I know I want to install Kaihl Box Jades on whatever board I end up getting, and I haven't confirmed yet whether all of these would be compatible with that. To be honest, I'm not sure how to go about confirming compatibility with switches. Thanks for any insights! >

What about the Keychron K4 Pro? Ticks all the boxes including hotswap, barebones, 1800-layout and wireless to boot. >

I’d looked at that, and the V series as well, but I like the Q series so much better. And I know that if I get something in the range of the K series, I’ll end up being restless and wanting to upgrade sooner than later. I’ll say this, if Keychron would make a Q5 Pro, like they’re currently kickstarting the Q1 Pro, I’d buy that in a heartbeat. >

I wouldn't be surprised if a Q5 Pro came along very soon TBH. Nothing wrong with waiting for what you want to buy if you don't need one right now. >

That’s where I’m leaning right now, actually. At the rate they have been releasing new boards, I wouldn’t be shocked it it happens this year. And it feels like sort of a given that it will happen eventually. >

Hi, new to mechanical keyboards and looking to pick one up that's versatile for work (Mac) and games (PC). I don't plan to go down the hobby rabbit hole.

size: not a concern as it'll stay on my desk, thinking maybe 75% or 80%/TKL, and I figure if I really want a numpad in the future, I could get one separately
budget: ideally the best value I can get <$250 CAD but open to stretching if there are great options
layout: I'm considering a split keyboard but haven't tried them before... was looking at the Moonlander and Dygma Rise but maybe in the future.

Must have:

Mac and Windows support
swappable USB cord
prebuilt/no soldering required
number row

Nice to have:

hot-swappable switches
Bluetooth/wireless support
detachable wrist pads
RGB
rotary knob
QMK/VIA / doesn't require brand-specific software
white color

I'm a bit overwhelmed by all the options out there so I decided to narrow down by brand instead and am currently deciding among Keychron, Akko, and Nuphy (open to others). I'm currently leaning towards Keychron (Q, V or K Pro). Heard great things about Akko and Nuphy too but heard the software isn't that great, and Keychron uses QMK/VIA which is open source.
Among Keychron's series, I like how Q has knobs and a white option, but no RGB or bluetooth (although I heard it's not great anyways) and a lot more expensive. V and K are cheaper and have RGB, but are kinda ugly -- can I buy other keycaps and switch them? Thoughts on what keyboards to narrow down to? >

the other post mentioned "split 75% doesnt really exist," but depending on how long you're willing to wait the Keychron Q11 is going to be a split version of their Q1, just with an extra knob & some macro keys on the left side. I think slated for Feb or March release?
Q also does have RGB, just not shine-through keycaps ("enthusiast" tier buyers tend to not want those because shine-through plastic feels/sounds bad in comparison generally). For V and K* Pro (and Q), yeah you can definitely change the keycaps. You can even get a barebones version that doesn't come with switches/keycaps to save the trouble of removing them, if you want. 
*I think some of the K series, especially the low-profiles?, may have issues with stabilizers on standard keycaps, but K Pro should be fine except again maybe the low-profile K3 Pro. (You probably want K Pro anyway since it doesn't really cost much different and has QMK support)
Also note that the Q boards have a Shell White option for case/keycap color, it's just somewhat hidden on some models behind picking the right top-level option (like "Fully Assembled Knob" for the Q1).
There's also the current "kickstarter" (really just a preorder) for the Q1 Pro, which is offered in a white case option, that is Q1 but with bluetooth. >

Thanks! Where can I see more about the Keychron Q11? Tried to search but didn't see anything. Macro keys would be useful for me too but I didn't mention that as I haven't seen mkbs with them (besides gaming ones). >

They post upcoming stuff in the discord sometimes, but just there and not like "officially" on the website/social media until dates and such are set in stone (since the general audience is more likely to make angry posts about delays or whatever, which aren't uncommon given the covid situation, chip shortages, etc).
They have some other boards with macro keys as well if you're interested I guess, like the Q10/V10 and Q65. (technically any key/key combo can be a macro key with QMK/VIA, but just speaking about standalone macro keys) >

How do I choose keycaps? Im new to custom keyboards, so I dont really know what I like. I'm planning to get a white monsgeek m1 with alpaca switches, what would be an appropriate budget for keycaps with that in mind? Is there any objectively good things I should be looking for?
I like the look of the YMDK matcha keycaps, as well as the artifact bloom series black on back. Are these valid options?
Thanks :) >

It's all preference and you won't know what you like until you try it. That being said, cherry is a safe profile, it's the most popular for a reason. >

should I buy the Keychron Q1v2 now or wait until the Q1 Pro gets enough reviews and buy it if it is worth it? >

Do you really need Bluetooth? If not, get Q1v2, if yes - wait. >

This is probably a really weird query. I love the layout of a 75% keyboard so much, but I can't work around the the right shift key being smaller from the left.
My muscle memory always uses the right shift, and because of my hand placement I almost  always hit the arrow up key than the shift. Is there or has there been any keyboards in a 75% layour with a longer right shift key? >

Not really, because the arrow keys go there. There were some exceptions tho - Mammoth 75, but it was a GB. I'd suggest either going with TKL or trying to slowly get used to the smaller shift :/ >

The Mammoth 75 is EXACTLY what I was imagining. Aw man. >

See r/mechmarket, might get lucky and find someone selling one >

akko has their own software to program the keyboard. i haven't used it myself yet so maybe someone can confirm;   i'd imagine download this and you will find the options your looking for >

big tip: check your stabilizers of they lubed em from factory. 
I thought my Enter button keycap/switch was defect, but it was too much lube on the stabilizer that was making it mushy.
Removed a bit of lube with paper & a world of improvement. >

Did you have a question? This is a questions thread. >

What are the differences between stabilizers? Are some better when used with certain switches? >

not switch related. but the quality of the stabs make a huge difference. some of the most popular ones right now are:   aeboard stabies, tx stabilizers and owlstabs >

Hi everyone,
I am looking to build, yet another, keyboard. I am looking for an ortholinear (or staggered from left to right, not sure the terminology for this) keyboard with “ergonomic” form. Unfortunately the person I am making it for will not go with what I think is superior, a split keyboard. I have not been active in the keyboard making world so I no longer know where to look for a PCB with the layout I have in mind.
Could someone mention some PCBs I should look for? To be clear, I am thinking something like the Malicious Ergo but with ortholinear instead of the standard keyboard stagger. 
Alternatively could someone tell me how difficult it is to make a split keyboard into a single board?
Let me know if I could be more clear somehow.
TDLR; Where to buy PCB like the Malicious Ergo but without standard stagger. >

Planning to build my second keyboard, which switches should i choose?
My first keyboard have Holy Pandas X hand-lubed, which i really like (much more than the blue cherry MX, which were my first)
The options are:
Drop + Invyr Holy Panda,
Everglide Aqua King,
Drop Halo,
Gateron Oil King >

I love the Oil Kings, Im planning on getting some soon. I tried them at a keeb store a while back and liked them immediately >

Are they more Thocky or Clacky? >

Thocky >

Wanting buying advice on switches and brand, low profile.
I'm daily driving cherry blacks from almost a decade ago. I think they're pretty good, but interested in moving to some low profile mechanical switches to reduce strain on my hands. I notice I enjoy typing on my 2021 14" macbook pro more than my desktop.
I've tried almost all the cherry switches. I think I'd prefer a tactile bump if it was very gentle and quiet. Browns are okay, but I'd prefer less bump.
What I'm looking at most right now is keychron's low profile switches.  I appreciate that their keyboard's are mac friendly, (as I may daily drive a mac) but I will be using this keyboard on a PC for gaming, video editing, and 3d software rendering software. Budget $80-140, but if the value is there I'd go higher. >

I've personally tried the low profile Keychron and it was decent. The flexibility across wired/wireless and operating systems was very nice. Heard good things about the Nuphy Air too which might be closer to what you'd like with flat keys. 
Alternatively have you tried spring swapping your MX Blacks to a lighter spring? >

Is there anyone here who happens to be aware of some software that would let me record and play back strings of keys on the fly?
I'm trying hard to ween myself off that Logitech goodness, but i'm hard-pressed to find anything that will allow me to use macros as powerfully as the logitech software does.
With logitech using macros is so simple; Hit record, hit the button to assign it to, do your thing, hit record again. Now the assigned key plays back whatever you recorded. No opening an app, no popups, just on the fly, anywhere anytime. Why is there no such thing for 3rd party use?
As a last resort, is there perhaps a way to 'spoof' a logitech keyboard so that I may use a nice mechy like a Keychron Q6? >


As a last resort, is there perhaps a way to 'spoof' a logitech keyboard so that I may use a nice mechy like a Keychron Q6?

No. >

Greetings swell folks,
I am looking around on Drop and see that they have the Preonic available and in my favorite color way, orange. There is no information on the key caps that come with the set though. Can anyone here help me discern the differences?
TIA! >

accute keycaps are the colored ones with legends in the pics on the site the other two options are pretty straight forward as they r both blanks with no legends one is black in OEM profile the other is beige in XDA profile . u can google what those profiles are but both will be blanks >

Ty >

Was the nk87 supposed to support vial out of the box? I believe it was via only, either way you can port it into vial or compile your own from the vial repo >

I just purchased a tokyo60 from a friend but don’t know what website would be good to get key caps can anyone recommend me any? >

Do you have experience with cannonkeys.com? If so, how is their customer service? Are they reliable with fixing orders? 
I just received my Zoom65 and it came with the wrong weight. I ordered the gold mirrored one but they sent me the black one. I just sent an email with pictures attached. >

Cannonkeys is pretty well known for their keyboards and their customer service so I think you shouldn’t have a problem with them. >

Thank you! >

Hi, does anyone have any views or experience with the bubble 75? There seem to be so many posts about the Mode Sonnet, but very little about the Bubble 75, which appears a similar keyboard at a similar price. Thanks. >

Any recommendations between purchasing the new Zoom65 v2 or the Mode Envoy? >

Both are overpriced and not very good, so I'm afraid it will be hard to get any recommendation for either in this sub >

If I compare for example the Keychron K6 for $99 with the keychron Q1 for $179 I really start to wonder what is so much better on the Q1. Barebone does not include switches and keys and it's still so much more expensive. I know the build quality is better and all that, but so is the build quality of the more expensive keychron keyboards but that's still cheaper than getting the barebone, switches and keycaps separately.
Am I missing something here? >

Basically for the Q series the case is a huge chunk of aluminium and that costs money to make. A lot of people really prefer that heavy premium feel. If you don't, that's what the V or K Pro series is for basically. 
Comparing to the K6 in particular (which isn't entirely fair because K6 is a smaller layer and thus needs fewer switches/caps/etc), it's also hotswap (extra labor and materials) and gasket mounted, and comes with various pre-installed mods to improve the sound. It also comes with more tools (switch puller, L wrench, C to C USB cable with C to A adapter, etc), which is minor but adds a bit. Plus QMK support, of course (which requires a more powerful and specific chip). >

The K6 has pre installed mods, hotswappable keys, qmk and tools but the only reason it's cheaper is because it's less aluminum and a handfull less keys/switches? Sorry, just making sure I understood what you meant :) >

Please don't be intentionally obtuse to strangers. Obviously "it" refers to the other object of comparison—the Q1 you were asking about; there would be no point of comparing the K6 to itself. >

Where can I get Kailh Silent Box Brown switches in Europe at a decent price? >

Candykeys has them in stock >

What keycaps do I need to buy to replace stock ones on a K6 Pro? >

Cherry mx compatible ones. Besides that, make sure whatever set you buy has support for standard 65% keyboards. (mostly the 1.75U shift)
SA, XDA, Cherry, MT3, KAT, DSA, or any other profile will work. >

Which ones do I need to look for to make the keyboard sound thocky? >

Keycaps have little to no effect on keyboard sound. >

Smoothest stock Akko linear switch? >

Weird question, but I'm still relatively new to the hobby - is there any unintuitive or surprising way I might be screwing up connecting a small 5-pin flat/ribbon cable in my QK75? 
Context, I got my kit, tested all the keys on the PCB and everything seemed to be working great, but I haven't been able to get the rotary encoder to work at all. It looks to me like the cable is installed correctly on both ends (image), and I've tried replacement cables, a replacement encoder, flashing firmware, and nothing seems to work to get their software or my pc to recognize inputs from the knob. 
They say the next thing to try would be to send back and swap out the entire PCB, but given my lack of experience with these components, I just wanted to ask if there was some common rookie mistake or something I might be making on my end but not realizing before I go through with that. Thanks so much! >

I'm considering going with the Keychron Q5 after the Nuphy Air96 is nog longer an option for me (No ISO layouts) . However I'm worried the Q5 might be too tall for me and fuck up my wrists. Is there something similar that isn't as tall? Currently using a Logitech K520 on it's last leg. >

get a wrist rest! I got a KC Q1 and ran into the same issue, got myself a wrist rest and I love it now >

Anyone know of a way to make Cherry style keycaps sit a bit higher on the crucifix? I added three new keycaps and they sit lower than the rest. Thanks! >

What makes a good cable? Why do people need custom cables? And which do you recommend? >

A good cable is a durable one, that doesn't break in a couple months. Custom cables are (90% of the time) purely cosmetic. >

How do people feel about NovelKeys? Specifically interested in the GMK Notion set whenever it’s back in stock. I currently only have the stock ABS keycaps that came with my Keychron C1 so I don’t know what to expect. >

I like NK a lot and feel that their pbt caps are a great value for the expansive kitting. You will much prefer them to the stock keychron caps >

Somehow when assembling my Zoom65 I managed to pull the two cables for the battery out of their plastic housing. I got them back in the housing and the keyboard was working but after a day of use the battery has stopped providing power.
If I power the keyboard using the USB C port it connects wirelessly but powers off and disconnects as soon as it's unplugged.
I'm not very knowledgeable when it comes to electronics like this. As I understand it the connector is some kind of 2 pin JST connector and the battery is 3.7V with 2250mAh capacity.
Pictures of the battery are here. Approximate battery dimensions are: length: 105mm, width: 41.6mm, thickness: 3.6mm.
I was wondering what I might search to find a replacement as I haven't had much luck with the information printed on the battery itself?
Any names for the connector or possible specifications for the battery would be appreciated. >

Are there any good tools for keycap planning? There are a few sets I’m interested in but don’t know if they would remotely look good together. >

Thank you! This is exactly what I was looking for. >

Keychron K3 Pro or NuPhy Air 75? Not sure which one should i choose. >

both very nice. for me qmk would probably be the deciding factor >

I'm looking for a first keyboard and looking at Keychron, Akko, and Nuphy. I'm leaning towards Keychron because of the QMK/VIA support as opposed to the proprietary Akko/Nuphy software. But do I even need software to use the keyboards? Can't I just plug in and use it assuming I'm getting a 75%+ and not using layers? >

It'd work fine without software. However, to re-keybind, use macros, etc. you need the software. Qmk/Via gives you a lot more freedom than proprietary software. >

Anyone can tell me if i can buy the akko 5075S knob in any other color than gold ? Do all akko keyboards have the same knob ? >

the sites says they all have a case color matching knob with a gold knob included in the box >

Omg what, i don think thats true in m case >

Is it possible for Keychron V4 leds to be configured to change colors based on layer? Based on my research so far, I'm thinking the leds aren't compatible with that type of config. Can someone help me if this is possible? >

there a way to do it in QMK not in VIA though . does require some research in program code >

Currently using Akko's ASA profile keys and considering adding some accents (Enter, Spacebar, and Esc) to my set. Obviously the ESC key doesn't matter as much, but if I were to get some MT3 caps from drop, would the Enter key and spacebar be noticibly too high? I can't seem to find a direct comparison of the two. >

I could be wrong but from the comparison of both profiles to standard cherry it definitely seems like MT3 keycaps are around 4 mm taller than asa. So a Cherry profile keycap is closer to asa than asa is to mt3 there would be a noticeable difference. >

Yeah, that's what I'm afraid of. Currently have a OEM keycap on the enter key and it's ever so slightly smaller, and I'm happy with it. Any reccomendation on where I can purchase quality PBT OEM single caps? Looking to do the spacebar, escape, and enter in red to complete a dolch colorway with the Akko Black & Silvers. Preferably with a font style on the enter key that plays well with the Akko or blank. >

I have two wyse-120 terminal with cherry black keyboards I believe. Still works. They feel fantastic. Is there a modern equivalent switch with ps/2 port? >

cheery black are still made but those are probably vintage blacks . cherry hyper glide blacks would prob be closest . but i am not sure if anyone still makes kbs with PS/2 port cables as that tech is rarely found on hardware these days its 20 years retired as the standard >

Hard to say without going through your entire keymap line-by-line unfortunately.
What I would do is this: get the base layer, edit it and have no layers. Flash that and verify it works and if it does, add your first layer, flash that and test again.
Rinse and repeat for all the other layers. You should be able to pinpoint what's causing the issue faster this way.
Also, are you flashing the default keymap provided by GMMK or one you obtained elsewhere? >

Thanks. I will try that. I’m using a keymap that somebody else edited based on a file glorious created. But I am pretty sure that my edits broke it. >

Could anyone recommend ZMK controller + shield/PCB with north facing RGB leds, bluetooth? >

I love the keycap sets that have the cadet symbols. How many kits have them? so far i know of these three: Space Cadet, GMK Nuke Data, GMK Euler. Any others? >

crimson cadet >

Are there any good navless keyboards? I'm using an 1800 now (keychron k4) but honestly I never use the arrows or the nav buttons so I'd rather have full width right shift and 0 keys. (by muscle memory I use the numpad for those things.) >

Wind X R2 is going up very soon and at least has the fullwidth zero. (no F row though if you wanted to keep that) 
Otherwise you miiiight be able to find a southpaw board, but those still often have right-side arrows. 
You could I suppose get a TKL and simply rebind the nav cluster to a numpad + backslash key as your zero? (feels pretty similar aside from the missing plus/enter/minus/etc non-number keys)
In general though the options are pretty limited for "has numpad" and "doesn't have arrows/short right shift". >

Yeah, I'm aware it's a niche preference. I'll probably end up settling into a 60% and a separate tenkey at some point, but with so many options out there I figured it didn't hurt to ask. >

looking to replace my 60% with a 65%, currently looking into the keychron Q2 or the zoom65 V2. Any recommendations on one over the other or any other boards over one of those two? >

There's also the upcoming Mode Envoy, Tofu Jr., Tofu 65 2.0, QK65 extras (I think?), Killer65 (gb i think ended but can probably get one in extras when it arrives), Ikki68, and honestly probably several others I'm not thinking of; 65% is a popular layout. >

Looking at building first custom board, what % money should i spend on what?? unsure what is the most important >

It’s preference so there’s no “should” here. I would spend the most on kit itself (case + PCB). Switches usually range between $2 to $6 for a pack of 10. Keycaps can be expensive but you can find great keycaps for around $70-90 and there are some decent/good ones for as little as $25. >

any plate mount stabs should work >

I’ve done some searching and I see people saying specific ones won’t work, some need clipping, etc.
Would you mind sending me a link of just the cheapest stabs I could get to sell this thing? >

I've never had anything but Vortex off-the-shelf. Now I would like to have something that feels a bit more unique and premium. I also don't feel ready to jump into group buys with uncertain delivery times since I would like to use it soon. What are my options right now? 75 or TKL preferred. The rest I don't know yet.
I am eyeing a Freebird TKL for 270€  and GMK retrocast for 130€ simply because it's in stock right now
Will I be happy with this or am I overpaying way too much? Is there any recommendation for a reliable group buy delivering soon where I can still participate? This is in Europe >

You might be able to get a Zoom TKL soon in extras or Assembled Edition; group buy ended a while ago so the timing is possibly good for that. 
I've heard some bad stuff about the freebird's value, but I haven't actually looked into it so I can't say either way.
Keychron Q1/Q3 are of course options as well, especially if you want ISO layout (not a lot of ISO support out there). 
Ripple TKL from cannonkeys is a current group buy that should be pretty reliable. 
Tiger 80, Tiger Lite, Odin 75 from KBD Fans too.
Also Mode Sonnet, and possibly Mode Eighty (though I think the Eighty is maybe getting replaced by another TKL from them soon? not sure).
And honestly probably a ton of other options as well if you're going for something fairly premium, TKL is like a hugely prefered layout for that market demographic so there are toooons. >

what is a usual markup from group buy to in-store? if the zoom tkl is over I will have to probably pay that anyways, right?
The other options ill check out. thanks >


what is a usual markup from group buy to in-store?

I think it basically depends on the store/group buy; might be able to check the store of whoever you're buying from and look for past GB vs Extras store pages to compare. >

Hey guys,
I  just switched my RK84 to Gateron Brown switches and lubed them. This is  the first time I've lubed or installed switches, but I had a question  about the Pause button.
I've  tried multiple online keyboard key testers and cannot get the Pause key  to register. I even switched the switch 2 or 3 times thinking it was  defective, but still haven't had any luck.
Then again, Pause doesn't play much of a role, as far as I know, in modern OS'es and I'm wondering if that might play into it.
I'm testing this on a MacBook Pro and I'm not sure if Mac OS X even has a use for the Pause key.
I'm also using a Royal Kludge RK84. I've tried setting the keyboard to both Windows and Mac modes.
Any  help would be appreciated. I find it hard to believe that I went  through 3 duds back-to-back while trying to get that key working and I'm  wondering if there might be another reason it's not showing up in a  test.
Any  help would be appreciated. Thank you to anyone who responds. Love this  group and love having this is a new hobby. I can't wait to stay broke!  =).... Also, =*( >


Chances are that the Pause button is on the edge of the keyboard. Checking. Yea it's like second from the right. Sometimes the switches in the corners don't go in all the way. You can unscrew it and try smushing it together or use a plate fork. Make sure there isn't more space around that corner than others. 
Check the switch to see if the pins are crunched. Sometimes when I push in a hotswap it's at an angle and I smush the pins. Crunch. Pull the switch out to check.
Pull the switch out. Grab an all metal tweezers. When the pcb is plugged in, touch each side of the tweezers with the holes of the hotswap socket. It should register the key. 
If the key works "like scroll lock works" then try using the software to reset it to default. I'm not familiar with what they use. 

Hope that helps. >

it looks so familiar I'm pretty sure its a real set, reminds me of gmk tuzi... I am interested too lol
(edit: the more I think about it, it might just be tuzi with the honeywell pink accents) >

What are the best silent tactile switches regardless of budget? >

First off, you are good to go with that keycap set, they will fit the q5 perfectly.  As for the R#s, those are row numbers, since cherry keycaps are sculpted and have different heights at difference rows, this is why the gmk set has 4 different page down keys, they can go on any row you want. Typically you will see the very top function row as R1, then R2 and so on, keychron seems to have flipped it for whatever reason (doesn't matter). >

Thank you! I really like that set, I'm excited to install it. I think a tape mod is next >

What's a good switch lubing kit? Something that comes with everything I need with good quality control would be great! I would also not prefer spending over $30 on one. >

Are there any GMK/SA Nuclear Data clones out there? These sets are not available expect in aftermarket for absurd prices, and the green color on these is just chef's kiss.  I know clones are controversial, but in this case, I wouldn't mind if someone has any ideas. >

I have a steelseries apex 5 keyboard. I took it apart for a long overdue deep clean, not using any water and making sure the alcohol wipes I used had dried off the bits I wiped, non electronic, using a dry wipe and letting it air dry. I think the rgb light on the enter key has shorted as it looks like if has. However this has stopped the function of that key and others including m, 2, 4 and others on the numpad. Is there a fix or something as I'd hate to replace.
* >

I am new to mechanical keyboards and I have decided on the Keychron V1 pre-built as it ticks all the boxes. I have heard reviewers saying that it feels stiff to type on. Is this something to worry about or is it a no-brainer? >

Are Cherry MX switches still bad/mediocre after lubing them properly? I heard that the scratchiness is a major deal breaker for most of the enthusiasts. >

Any suggestions for other good places to sell keyboards other than mechmarket since I don't have enough comment karma to post there. >

Discord servers, a lot of the keyboard vendors have them. >

Thanks for the idea I'll have to check >

Hey, im looking for good switches for creamy clean sound, but when i see how many variants my eyes are popping out of my head, maybe u know some so smooth ones between 35-50g up to 50$ per 70 switches (and to play some games too)
P.S. my gaze falls more to akko switches (cuz they cheap and good quality) and Everglides
P.P.S and im looking for nice stabs >

Does anyone know where I can find switches (or keycaps combo) that sound like the sound that comes out of the controller when Sam in Death Stranding walks on rocky terrain? >

I'm looking for build idea for a few weeks now. I think I found something good.
My needs : silent keyboard with numpad under 150e
My idea : Duharo VN96, Outemu Silent lemon or peach switches, some keycaps.
Whay do you think of this build? Any keycaps suggestion for around 30€? >

looking for keyboards with:
volume knob
dedicated media keys
full layout (100%)
hot swap (strongly preferred as i want to use a silent tactile switch in the future)
dedicated macro keys (nice to have but optional if necessary)
browns or silent blacks / reds
bluetooth (optional)
white on black pbt stock keycaps (preferred but i can simply change them later)
black, office look (at least black preferred)
removable cable (optional but preferred)
white true backlighting (optional considering i almost never needed it before but a nice to have and looks good asf when done right)
im new to the scene and simply want something that can fit my needs (all round keyboard thats quiet but tactile) with niceties like the media controls. I would highly prefer to not have to build my keyboard from the ground up but it seems like my options are really limited at the 100% form factor
Thanks in advance to anyone who has ideas or suggestions!! >

Keychron V6 or Q6 is most of those things excluding bluetooth and white backlight; K10 Pro would have bluetooth & probably white backlight option, but no knob probably. >

Hello, I am buying an entry level mechanical keyboard for my girlfriend as a gift, but I am not sure what to buy. For reference, she said she was tired of using cheap keyboards (think $20 logitech ones), so I don't want to buy trash, for reference I use Keychron and similar quality if what I'd like to buy. Never had connection issues, and it doesn't feel cheap (to me).
The list is fairly specific, I guess.

TKL, 87%, 70% or so. It isn't really set in stone, but nothing TOO compact. Fullsized might be ok
Wireless bluetooth (no adapter)
macOS support (preferably first class support as I'd like to avoid karabiner or other potential issues)
Backlit (through the keys), white/rgb doesn't matter
White or pink color options
Switches should be red or equivalent, as we share a home office. I recently changed to reds from brown, and foam/oring modded mine.

Essentially a pink Keychron K6 (what I use) is what I am looking for, but I don't want to go down the modding route to be frank.
So far I have found these options

~~Keychron Q1 Pro - Not sold in Thailand~~
Royal Kludge 87 - it doesn't have proper macOS keys anywhere I see, and furthermore I can find it as low as $34 which kind of makes me wonder if it is TOO cheap of a brand? Is RK an ok brand?
Akko 3087 Plus Prunus Lannesiana - I think this one shows the style well, although no backlight and it is wired.
1STPLAYER CLEAR 75% - Looks alright, spec/layout wise, no backlight and again never heard of this brand.

Anything looks alright here?
I also wonder how I know which ... kind? type? height? ... of keycap-replacement to buy, as I want to buy the macOS keys to replace with alt/windows.
Thank you in advance! >

Royal kludge is fine, akko is a bit better, never heard of the other brand >

Thank you, probably will go for RK then. >

I have zero idea about any of the fancy tech related words you all use. All I am looking for is someone who will mod my keyboard (Razor Huntsman) on commission basis for me.
My keycaps are in EN layout and I would love to have them in DE Layout. Also, the new keycaps need to be similar to the Huntsman and it's prior keycaps, as in, they need to support the shape and form of the keyboard and they need to be able to support the backlighting of the keyboard. 
I tried reading through all of the info but I still have zero idea where I can get this done and how. >

Honestly, paying someone to do that for you would be a lot more expensive than just buying a Keychron V series board that comes with DE-ISO layout.
edit: to add, if all you want to do is change the keycaps, you don't really need to pay anyone to do that, the actual act of changing keycaps is very easy. the problems in your case would be:
1) are the Razer Huntsman switches actually compatible with non-Razer keycaps? (probably; if your spacebar is as long as 6.25 "normal" keycaps then likely you're okay)
2) can you find keycaps with German legends on them? (this might be tough)
3) can you find keycaps with German legends and shine-through and sold separately from a keyboard? (this will be very tough) >

I just looked but the problem here is that those only seem to be available in grey/black and my keypoint is the nice layout customs have, the fancy colors, etc. >

Unfortunately the "custom" scene is extremely centered around "US English" (because thats the layout both America and China communities use); alternate language options are way rarer. 
On top of that, the plastic needed for the "shine-through" effect for RGB feels lower quality the popular options for opaque caps, so most of the "custom" market doesn't care for them→demand is lower→very few options.
If you're okay with non shine-though caps, there are a decent-ish amount of options. Sets by GMK, ePBT, and others usually offer "international kit" options that include some DE keys, and keyboard-centric stores in Europe will have some DE sets (like the selection here at candykeys). >

Thanks for the answer (I'll cry), it's as helpful as possible. At least I now know that I didn't weirdly miss something, but actually there is nothing available...
Paying someone to make a full on custom themselves would be possible tho, right? >

Honestly I'm not sure if it's even possible; there's a reason people pay so much for GMK keycap group buys—small-run custom keycaps are expensive and have minimum order requirements, and shine-through plastic is even harder to work with.
You could possibly get some laser-etched... basically "blank" keycaps that are shine-through plastic covered in a layer of coating, then with the coating lasered off. I'm not sure if that service exists for individuals but it definitely might; I know Yushakobo does it but for non-shine-through, so somewhere might offer it for shine-through caps. 
You can also get translucent or transparent keycaps without legends and print/buy stickers with DE legends to put on them. Thats a commonish practice for JP layout users, since like most languages the other options are just not really there right now.
You may also want to try sending some emails to places like Razer support or local keyboard vendors like that candykeys to see if they have any recommendations. >

Candykeys was totally sold out, sadly, but I put email-annotation on, so they will get back to me when my preferred models are back in stock. >

Hi there,
Looking for some guidance as a complete noob ;)
I am currently running a logitech G910, I am quite happy with it overall appart from the fact those darn switches have started failing and generate double strikes quite often. And it's apparently a common issue with logitech so...
I am not trying to break the bank, so staying below 100 euros (buying from france) would be great.

Size : 100% . I like my numpad set well appart from the rest ;)
USB
Backlit (through the keycaps), RGB is much appreciated (I know, I know...)
Overall color : black
Switches : I am not entirely sure, I think it's red or silent red that I need. I didn't dislike the feel / sound of the ROMER G switches on my G910 (black / white switches). But by all means I don't want a soviet era typewritter sound when I game / work :D

Overall I am leaning toward a prebuild, because I work remotely and the double typing is quite the issue (I could have alieexpressed my way through some new romer G and soldered them back inside but that's going to be weeks till delivery.
Any advice would be much appreciated ;) I am not going full mechanical crazy (yet), just looking for the middle ground that I can get decently fast and ditch the dying G910 :) >

Keychron >

They have full sized keyboards under 100 euros at keychron ? I was told about that brand but when I checked it seemed in a much higher price bracket. >

Their V6 board is 100% layout and should be under that, yeah. >

my left shift key has a "tick" sound on the left side of the key (how to fix this ?) >

Is it a long ANSI shift? Could be the stab underneath, might need some lubing >

I did bandaid mod and it was fixed ! Thanks for help tho >

Anybody own a bisoromi rs60? I'm thinking of buying one. I don't usually go for 60 percents but if the experience is amazing I'd go for it. >

Any mechanical that feels good and is also completely silent? >

Yes but not out of the box; at minimum you'd need to get a barebones and put silent switches in it. Keybored on youtube has a video on making them quiet easily. >

Got quite the problem on my hands, hand to take separate the plate and pcb to do the pe foam mod and put the keyboard back together, now the back-space, shift and enter key feel really sluggish and mushy. They also feel really hard to press down. Anyone got ideas on how to remedy this?
Edit: they barely rise even though they were fine before opening the keyboard up ( I did not lube the stabilizers) >

Remove the stabilizers, clean them, make the wire"even" (no curves you need a straight wire), relube them and put them back
That would be my suggestion >

I don't have anything to relube the stabilizers with unless I destroy them with wd-40, should I scrape all the lube off and do what you suggested or just leave them and only try to straighten the wire? >

Well, it kinda depends - too much lube can make the stab mushy. But just go after your gut feeling - I would prob just try to straighten the wire/ time the stab >

alright thanks >

i have a QK65 Pink with Chroma weight, any keycap recommendations? i want cherry profile and some kind of pink in the keycap (alphas, mods, accents whatever) >

CXA Iara if you like navy >

thanks but i want cherry profile >

I’m bringing with me 2 boards. 1 wired and 1 wireless. the question is, since the wireless one has a battery. where should I put it on my luggage?
check-in or carry-on?
thanks! >

I prefer to put anything that can potentially be broken in my carry-on because that way I know how it’s being handled. Baggage handlers are really rough. >

Hello, need some help with my keyboard! I know this may sound silly but my keyboard's fn key suddenly disappeared and is now a ctrl key. I'm not familiar with keyboards at all and don't know how these keys could have been remapped, but it's been a hassle since I don't have an fn key at all anymore. I know it's a ctrl key now since when I make keybinds, it always says ctrl instead of fn. If anyone could help me understand why this happened I'd greatly appreciate it, and also let me know how to fix this or remap them. I'm not sure of the exact model of my keyboard since it was gifted, but I know it was from KBD fans if that helps. >

Ah are you remapping in VIA?
There was recently an update that broke layer keys on old firmware basically. If that's the issue probably you can fix it by updating the firmware. Other people have had basically this problem recently so you can probably search the reddit for relevant terms and find some other people who've gotten it solved, or maybe ask in the KBD Fans discord, or contact KBD Fans support directly on the chat feature on their website. If you have pictures it should be pretty easy to identify the model for them. >

Oh yes! I did have VIA downloaded because I wanted to switch the lights for my keyboard but uninstalled it cause it didn't change anything. I had no idea that would be the cause so thank you for your insight and I'll make sure to look around for others posts to see how I can update my firmware and fix this issue :)! Thank you again!! >

Oh, specifically the update broke lighting stuff too, so once you do get it updated you can probably go back to usevia.com and adjust the lighting for real. >

Okay that's nice to know because I've been stuck on the same lighting for a year now 🥲! >

The bounciness is quite normal with pc plate, dont think it will snap but maybe bend a bit. You can also try with a FR4 plate to increase the stiffness I think you can get it custom made from hypekeyboards.ca. Not sure if they can make a custom alu one >

Is there a significant (or any at all) difference in terms of sound and feel of - say GMK, EPBT etc. other "higher end keycaps" versus something like Akko, for example? I don't care about the absolute crispness of text and such. Simply sound and feel. Is it really worth spending $100-$150 or even more vs $60 ish? >

Sometimes. If you chase the perfect sound it may matter - but for most it probably isn't worth it...
But different keycap profiles and materials affect the sound - if it is noticeable enough for you depends on you :)
Some prefer e.g. Akko keycaps over GMK, although I like GMK the most (but I haven't tried them all :) )
The texture depends on the material (mostly abs vs Pbt) and which profile they have >

Currently I'm using the Keychron OSA profile stock keycaps. I'm looking for an upgrade in thickness, maybe a little deeper sound if possible at all and just genreally prettier coloring. So I'm thinking most likely PBT, cherry/osa/asa profiles as "sa" may be a little too tall, don't want to risk.
Also, some people say ABS actually sounds thinner, higher pitched than PBT and some say quite the other way round - give that ABS is of proper thickness and quality like GMK or DMK.
What do you think? >

I would honestly just take a set that's comfortable and looks decent. Comfort>>sound (for me)
I like my cherry keycaps because they are not too tall - but taker keycaps often give a deeper sound. >

Sup everyone, I am a fellow enthusiast who needs help.
I but away some money some months ago ti put towards a new board, then I stopped caring about the keyboard world for a bit so I haven’t been catching up with any releases and shit, I unfortunately have found myself back into the rabbit hole and I want to use the money I saved up, so
What can I get for 400€ with a decent shipping time? >

Oh, also it can be with or without caps since I already have a spare set >

Got a Redragon K550 Yama RGB. Tried setting the backlight colors using both the keyboard button and the software. Everything works fine except just the 'R' key. The 'R' key can't be set to certain colors. If I set it to red it's fine. If I set it to yellow, it's red. If I set it to green, it's blank. If I set it to blue, it goes to a lighter blue than the others.
Any ideas what is wrong and how to fix it? >

one of the colors in the led is dead this can happen with smaller electronics like leds they have a like 1% failure rate u cannot fix it with software this is an led issue ( hardware ) easiest fix would be to return it and get a new one . hardest would be to take the kb apart and replace the led . this will be hard to find the correct led and its not an easy task if u have little to no soldering exp >

Thanks, that makes sense.  I'll take it back and exchange it for a new one. >

I want to build a new keyboard without RGB for gaming, I have done the research and found out some linear switch that I considered: Gateron yellow pro 2.0, C3 Tangerine V2, and Gateron Baclk Ink v2. Which should I choose ? >

Gateron yellow might be a good choice and they are cheap compared to black inks v2. Tangies used to be very special but now they aren't that unique. You can also hyperglides cherry black and spring swap them if you feel they are too heavy for you. >

I don't have any problem with budget, but the tangerine is nearly the same with black inks v2 except for the bottom with 70g, is it too heavy ?? >

Some people find heavy (I do, my favs are 60g), some people find it just fine. You can always replace springs with lighter/heavier ones, 100pcs pack is around 10$
Hope this helps! >

is it much different with Tangies 62g ? >

pff no idea honestly, never used Tangerines. Though compared to 63.5g Slows of Gat Yellows, 60g TX Long springs feel just a tad lighter >

Thank you >

Has anyone tried Gateron’s G Pro 2.0 White switches? How are they? >

I have disturbingly a lot of spacebar rattle (its a lot) I did holy mod (with paper tape) and band aid mod and its still loud and bad as fuck pls help
Edit : I don't have access to lube >

without lube aint much u can do specially if they r stock stabs >

I found gateron lubed stabs for 11 us dollars and I think I need to buy that shit , amazing value >

Anyone know what the differences are between the Tofu65 2.0 and the Tofu Jr?
Both seem to be 65% with an option between top and gasket mounts. >

My Tofu Jr is not detected on boot, can't get into my BIOS or anything and have to unplug/re-plug the keyboard every time I turn on the computer, works fine on all my other keyboard pls help, went to enable usb legacy support in BIOS and there was no option for it. >

VA108MN keyboard help wanted ;-;
So I have a roughly 2 years old VA108M keyboard and today my entire bottom row of keys was weird. For example, pressing the z key triggers all the keys in the row and going down the row triggers the one behind them (eg: pressing “Z” gives “zxcvbn” and pressing “X” gives “xcvbn”). It is not consistently like this and sometimes it triggers more keys and sometimes it triggers less keys (eg: pressing “X” can vary from normal to “xcv” to “xc” to “xcvbn” etc). It is exclusively the bottom row so far. I have tried updating the drivers and uninstalling then reinstalling drivers but to no avail. If anyone knows why in the world this is happening, please let me know. All help is appreciated ;-; >

I am completely new to mechanical keyboards, but I'd like to build my first one. Am a uni student, so don't have a huge budget but I can splurge a little.
I have decided to go with a Monsgeek M1 in ISO layout (whenever it becomes available, I am in no rush) with Gateron Milky Yellow Pros.
Now I'd like to have some XDA profile keycaps with it, obviously in ISO layout and in German. I also would prefer pastel colours or some muted green or something (at least for some novelty accent keys, the alpha keys can be white but I don't want blanks) without it costing nearly the same or even more than the Monsgeek M1 itself. As I understand it, that's so rare in ISO-DE I might as well start searching for a unicorn. I think at this point I have clicked through the entirety of what AliExpress has to offer, which was not much. Any insider advice where I could find something like this?
On a side note, it is really frustrating how many keycap sellers are apparently based in Germany but only offer US-ANSI keycaps. I get it's probably because of low demand, but it's kind of a chicken and egg question: How are people supposed to get into the hobby if you quite literally can't find anything to get started? Sorry for ranting. >

xda profile is semi new and not many options . ur question about ANSi keycaps is due to the manufactures in this hobby target the highest sales regions of USA and ASIA both who exclusively use ANSI . they do see the point in making stuff for ISO went there is almost zero demand for it .  u dont see many cars for sale in the EU with the steering wheel on the left side do u ? that cuz no demand >

Nearly all EU cars have left side steering. Everywhere in the EU drives on the right. >

i just saved up some money (around 400 bucks) and was wondering what keyboard kit can i afford in this range of money, rly want some good design ones, my main use are for gaming and typing >

What layout do you want? >

So I just got my new keyboard, the SGK3, and everything went well until I tried to use my “w” key. It doesn't work, and it only works when I press very hard. Please help me.
PS: I'm using my On-Screen Keyboard to write “w” >

if it hotswap remove the switch and check for bent pins or check the backside to see if the hotswap socket is loose , if it neither of these things return it >

I got a mechanical keyboard as a Christmas gift recently. It’s the wired keyboard from Logitech’s Aurora collection (G713) with linear switches. I’m not extremely knowledgeable about switches, but I know that linear switches “activate” quicker than clicks or tactile. My issue is that the keys are too sensitive—I literally graze them/put barely any pressure and the key is activated. 
I was wondering if anyone knew if this is an issue w/this specific keyboard or if this is normal for linear switches? I’m also considering replacing the keyboard but I’m not sure if it’s worth it if this isn’t an issue specific to this keyboard, so I’d take any advice on the issue. Thank you! >

Linear switches don't necessarily actuate faster than tactile or clicky switches, but they could be considered the easiest to actuate due to the linear travel (no bump). They might seem too sensitive because the spring weight is low, meaning less force is required to actuate the switches. 
To replace the switches on the board you would need to know how to desolder/solder, and even then it's not worth the time/effort IMO. I suggest replacing the G713 with a different keyboard, and one with hot-swappable sockets so that you can easily change switches. 
Take a look at Keychron and see if they have anything you like >

Looking for something that is similar to the Nuphy Air96 in ISO layout, any recommendations? >

Looking for a 75% barebones board around 60-70 dollars any recommendations? >

Keychron V1 or Portico75 are good options >

Does the v1 come in white? >

I think only in black/frosted. Its more expensive Q1 cousin used to come in shell white but that doesn't seem to be available anymore. 
The Epomaker TH80 Pro is another option for a 75% that comes in white and has a barebones edition. >

I was looking at the homyl next time nt75 is that a good option? >

I haven't tried it myself but I've seen good things about it. Especially at its price point. >

Alr I’ll prob go with that I’m trying to sell my kb67 lite r3 with box jades so I can get that and some keycaps and switches >

How often do you guys have warped spacebars? I wanted to hold out for the PBTfans ronin set to come out but I'm thinking of just ordering some GMK Gladiator clones in the meantime. The last clone set I got was warped to the point where my spacebar would barely go up and down, and even doing the boiling water trick didn't fix it. (I think the issue was more about the poles on the bottom side of the spacebar being too far apart, rather than just warp)
​
I don't want to get burned again, but there are no keycap sets I like enough to justify paying $100+ for that are actually in stock right now. Is the experience I had a fluke or is this pretty much what I can expect from clones in the future? >

Any help with this or where can I get qmk_sys help? 
qmk_firmware % qmk compile -kb /users/username/qmk_firmware/keyboards/keychron/q3/ansi_encoder -km via
and I get
make: *** No rule to make target '/users/username/qmk_firmware/keyboards/keychron/q3/ansi_encoder:via'. Stop. >

You don’t need the full address if you’re already in the directory. Try this:
qmk compile -kb keychron/q3/ansi_encoder -km via >


qmk compile -kb keychron/q3/ansi_encoder -km via

I tried that and I get 
Making keychron/q3/ansi_encoder with keymap via
⚠ "git describe --abbrev=6 --dirty --always --tags" returned error code 1
⚠ "git describe --abbrev=6 --dirty --always --tags" returned error code 1
⚠ "git describe --abbrev=6 --dirty --always --tags" returned error code 1
builddefs/build_keyboard.mk:57: *** target pattern contains no '%'. Stop.
gmake: *** [Makefile:414: keychron/q3/ansi_encoder:via] Error 1
Make finished with errors
But I don't get a .bin or anything usable by the QMK Toolbox. >

Join the Keychron discord and put your error messages in the QMK thread. They’ll be able to walk you through it faster than Reddit. I’m assuming the issue has to do with which QMK fork you’re using >

Ty >

Hey guys. What is the best stock  tactile Akko switch? >

Switches are all preference and there is no “best.” Just get an Akko switch tester and pick out the one you like most. >

Looking for Bluetooth keyboard. Suggestions welcome, info below.
TL:DR is there something better than the Keychron K6?
Only Mechanical keyboard experience is current Ducky Shine 3 TKL Cherry Red.
Musts

Bluetooth (2+ devices, iOS & work laptop) and Wired/Wireless (PC)
65% (or 60/75)
Brown (or Blue) Switches (something more noise+tactile than my MX Red)

Wants

Easy to purchase alternative keycap sets
Good Backlight (RGB not required)
ISO or ANSI layout (only reason for ANSI is better keycap options)
Hotswap Swtiches & customisation options if I want to try things

Other: Don’t need to transport it (battery and weight not so important).
Budget: up to £200/$200
I've been interested to get into this as a hobby so a good starter hobbiest kb rather than just a good mech kb would be nice.
Nuphy Halo65 and Keychron K6/K2 (75%) keep rising to the top of any searches but looking for alternatives. From searching here I've also found: Epomaker GK68X and TH66, Drop MelGeek Mojo68 (pricey and not available), Durgod Fusion (don't like design), Kemove Shadow (60%), Akko 3068B.
I really liked the look of Zoom65 so will keep my eye on those coming available again.
Thanks for any additional suggestions. >

Keychron Q1 Pro sounds like it would work and fit within your budget. The K-series boards are decent wireless boards, but not as premium or hobby focused as the Q-series. 
Also, Zoom65v2 group buy is this Friday. >

Thanks for mentioning those, I had no idea that they were being launched/released soon. Going to check out both of them some more. >

I'm looking to replace my Logitech Orion g610 brown with a tenkeyless keyboard. I figure since I'm changing keyboards I might as well go for an upgrade. I'm looking at the WASD Code Brown but I'm wondering if I'll really feel that much of a difference. Do premium keyboards with same switches feel all that different? >

They can, yes. However, WASD is nothing special these days and severely overpriced considering the competition. You can get much better boards for that price and many of them will let you swap switches whenever you want >

Does the zoom65 have a hotswappable PCB? >

Yes, it does >

Do u know some good stabs? >

durrock stabs , stabbies , owl stabs v2 >

Hello. I just moved and am looking for a pretty mechanical keyboard, but idk where to start looking. So far, the only one I've found that suits my needs has been "Varmilo VA Series V2 Sakura R1 Pink LED Mechanical Keyboard"
Does anyone know if this is a quality brand? Any other recommendations?
Some features I'm looking for are:
-pretty keycaps, preferrably pink, flowers, or koi themed
-blue switches, brand must be high durability
-100% full sized 
-wired
-LEDs preferred, but not necessary
-media wheel to adjust sound preferred, but not necessary
I had "Basaltech Mechanical Gaming Keyboard and Mouse Combo, Retro Steampunk Vintage Typewriter-Style Keyboard with LED Backlit, 104-Key Anti-Ghosting Blue Switch Wired USB Metal Panel Round Keycaps, Pink" in the past. It was everything I was looking for, but the switches wore out after awhile and started sticking/not registering. >

My wife has a Varmilo,  it came prebuilt. To me its a really low tier plastic keyboard and would not recommend for anyone wanting to get into the hobby. 
Having said that if you can not afford more or not willing to build one yourself its OK >

Which gaming keyboard is best? Need help deciding.Gaming keyboards >

there is no "best " gaming kb unlike mice . all modern kbs are equal for gaming and typing >

I recently received my Womier K87 and am having difficulty with the software for the keyboard's RGB settings. I have a Mac and was wondering if anyone has had any luck finding a version that works. I downloaded the K87 software listed on gamakay's software download page, but it doesn't open (I'm assuming it's PC only). I'm extremely new to mechanical keyboards so I apologize if this is a dumb question lol
TIA! >

budget kb are usually cheaper as they cut corners on the software . u can try contacting the manufacturer but brand like gamakay , royal krudge , and reddragon are notorious for bad software that is a pain to find the right version to get it to connect  
ur also on MAC which inly accts for 11% of the worlds computers of that 11% how many use a mechanical kb ? prob less than half so many kb makers dont focus on such a small user base >

i didn't think of it that way, thank you! I'll probably just give up on the software hunt and stick to searching through the settings manually. thanks for the reply! >

Hey,
I'm looking to buy my first mechanical keyboard at the end of the month, i've decided to go with keychron
I was wondering if a TKL + numpad works the same as a 100% keyboard (with the alt + 157 for symbols) ?
Also does anyone know where to find iso-FR keycaps with rgb letters ? I work in dark environments and it helps a lot >

both ISO and FR are not a high demand market there will be some but it semi rare also due to "shine thru" ( rgb backlight ) keycaps are very unpopular in the aftermarket and also very bad for ur eyes being used in the dark and low light ( many medical studies have shown ) >

Can anyone confirm the IRL color of the faint blurple Zoom65? I searched the sub but the ones I’ve found seem to vary widely (with some skewing pale and greyish and some appearing almost bright lilac). I currently own a Keychron Q2 and QK65 so not sure if I want to spring for the zoom if the color render is way off. TIA! >

Are thicker keycaps regardless of material and height less optimal for gaming (for example osu!) than thinner keycaps? I've been using thick PBT and Doubleshot ABS but thinking about using regular thin abs keycaps that come with prebuilts like Ducky or Filco. >

doesnt matter for gaming its all about feel and sound thickness or height will be preference >

Hands and shoulders are sore from using a Vortex Race 3.
I can't seem to find a comfortable position when using a Vortex Race 3.  I tried angling the board up or down, wrist rest, wrist rest raised a bit higher, and various combs.  Nothing works.
Would changing the oem keebs to DSA help?
Open to all ideas.  Honestly, the MS Surface Ergo (tkn) in a mech would be my ideal solution.
TIA! >

If your shoulders are hurting, it's your posture and general ergonomics that are the issue, not the keyboard. >

What about my hands?  I just can't seem to find a comfortable position for my hands, much less one that lets me easily reach the keys.  Would a new key profile help with that? >

Nice catch, I wrote it backwards.  Would OEM keys, with varying row heights provide any benefits?
For ergo, I have done all of the normal stuff like adjusting desk and chair height, distant to the keeb.  As well as, playing with different angles for the keeb and wrist rest.
Shoulders could be that I am old. >

The 1,Q,A,Z keys are not working on my 61 keyboard. Does anyone know the issue/fix? I Googled and looked up vids on YT but they all for membrane keyboards. >

if the board is hotswap change chenge the switch to sii if it works >

I received some gateron phantom yellows, the factory lube was not very good and I took the time to lube them with 205g0 however on some of the switches I cannot seem to get rid of the scratch when pressing on the upper part of the keycap. Is there anything I can do to remove this or is it just the quality of the switches? I applied lube lightly following taeha's video >

Any particular manufacturers folks like for shine-through keycaps?
It'll be a bit before my Q1 Pro gets here, but if I can source some great keycaps before then, I can be ready when it arrives. >

Nope, shinethrough's all relatively low-end. >

Bummer. Was really hoping there would be someone producing something good. I've found a few on Amazon that don't look horrible, but apparently QA/QC is rather hit or miss. >

To let light through, plastic generally has to be a bit thinner, and keycap thickness and quality are related unfortunately. >

I plan on getting a Zoom65 EE V2, but I'm not sure whether I should buy it directly from Meletrix, or from a local vendor, which would be mainland EU in my case. Does someone have any experience with this? >

directly from meletrix imo. I dont think theres anything wrong with buying from authorized resellers but I prefer to give my money directly to the source >

That makes sense, thank you! Do you know if shipping costs are usually lower when buying from more or less local vendors? >

TBH I'm not sure, but the total price will most likely be about the same as buying directly from Meletrix. All my shops shipping costs are about the same being in the US, I'm not sure about EU! Might be worth comparing >

Alright, thanks again for sharing your opinion! >

For sure! lemme know if you have anything else you're curious about! >

My keyboard sometimes doesn't register certain keys. Specifically "S", "A" and "Enter". The keys work most of the time, when I press the keys a bunch of times the same ways it will detect it 90% of the times. 
I don't know if the problem might be the board (GMMK Pro), the Switches (Akko CS Lavender Purple) or the keycaps (from Amazon IDK the brand). I assume it might be the keycaps but since it's my first build I would rather ask, thanks! >

almost certainly the board (pcb) but maybe the switches. Can try to swap them out if you have extras >

Just finished my first build! I flashed the keyboard with QMK configure / toolkit, and it is up and running! I tried to install VIA, but ran into a few snags. Looks like the VIA website made the program into an online app? It doesn’t seem to detect my HID device online, so the app seems useless. I found the VIA GitHub page to install the program on my PC, but was blocked by windows which said VIA was harmful to my computer. I gather this happens, but it still makes me wonder why. If VIA is a safe program, why is this error occurring for everyone? Should I install VIA anyway as admin? Or is there a better software to tweak the RGB? Thanks! >

the only reason that happens is because windows doesnt like unrecognized executables, especially ones from open source projects. you are totally fine running VIA and I definitely recommend it for custom boards. as far as i know, most of those boards are only compatible with QMK/VIA >

Much appreciated! >

Does Varmilo sell their own switches somewhere? I can't find them >

Hello! 
I have a niz plum atom 68 that have costar stock stabilizers, but they rattle even after lubing them, so I was planning on switching to tx stabs. But will tx stabs fit my keyboard? 
(I'm very new to stabilizers and keyboards in general) >


But will tx stabs fit my keyboard?

Nope. Costar boards can only use costars. >

oh okay, thanks! >

I was thinking of getting an Epomaker GK96S, but I was confronted with two choices. The aluminum case one, and the regular black one. I'm pretty new to keyboards and would like for someone to explain me the difference between those two, especially because I'm looking for a quieter keyboard and the price difference is a bit too much for me to not matter. >

what is a really silent switch my friend needs a keyboard to use at night ( partner is a light sleeper) >

just about any silent switch will work they r all about the same siund wise they can also add case foam to further dampen the noise >

what is the best quiet switch for my q5? it doesn't have to be silent, but i plan on using it in a dorm setting. i want something that is really good ig, since i'm getting the barebones q5 for the purpose of pairing it with nice switches + keycaps >

you can get silenced switches in tactile and linear form. if you haven't heard one yet check out an example on youtube. some popular ones to start with; gazzew u4 (tactiles) and gazzew bobbagum (linear) and many more >

Don’t own a mechanical keyboard yet (well I do but it’s Logitech g213 and sounds awful) so was debating getting a proper one, I really like the idea of those Rama Duck switches but they only come in 70qty since everything else is sold out. Since I’m after a 75 or 80% i would have to buy double to have enough. Is it worth it so I don’t miss out like I did on the Klein blue’s that I really liked the sound of or am I going too far ahead for my first? >

Those are quite expensive , watched a video about those switches and they sounded quite good but i feel you can try something else and mod them if you dont mind modding/lubbing. >

This might be a bit of an odd question, but I just want to check my understanding... Let's say you have a switch with an actuation point at 1.0mm and travel distance of 3.0mm. If you were to then swap in a long pole stem, would it be actuation at 1.0mm and travel distance of 2.5mm? >


If you were to then swap in a long pole stem

There's no way that switch isn't already a long pole stem with those measurements.
Either way, there's no standard "long pole" stem so the question inherently doesn't really make sense without specifying a specific stem and switch. >

Couldn't just be a shallower housing? Again, sorry if it's a dumb question! >


Couldn't just be a shallower housing?

No, not a thing. They could be speed switches where they don't pole bottom out, but the shortening will be on the stem.
Plus I'm 99% sure you're looking at a tecsee switch which I know is long pole. >

The specific switch I got the distances from is the Akko CS Silver, but this is just me trying to understand conceptually what physically makes up those distances.