>

Thank you, yea I also thought of getting a barebone but I'm a bit on a budget at the moment, and some pre-built options are very appealing in this sense.
Hi. I currently live in a place where there is often dust in the atmosphere, and I would like to keep my keyboard clean from dust as well as from other particles. However, removing & adding back the keys every time I want to clean it, is a pain in the ass, since I have to do it pretty often. Is there any other way to achieve it? Would any air compressor work or is there something better? >

Compressed air would work
Also you could use a small towel to place over your keeb when you aren't using it >

no idea, its a thing (people being downvoted) that happens in the daily threads >

How can I re-attach the non slip foot to the bottom of my ducky one 2? One of them fell off months ago, and it's been hard times ever since. I've tried hot glue, but no luck. >

Use different glue >

That just might be crazy enough to work. >

Looks like the last community poll was done in 2017.  Are there any plans to do another? >

Probably not, they're not particularly useful. >

I want to get into building custom keyboards, but my hype has crashed pretty spectacularly lately, as any time I find any highly recommended products, they are sold out. Also, I'm afraid that when I'm done building my first keyboard, I won't really know if I've done a good job, since I have no reference point.
So now I've come to the conclusion that I would rather buy a pre-build (but "custom") keyboard that is really well put together, perfectly lubed and tuned and all that. This would give me a reference point for what a *well built* keyboard feels and sounds like, and give me a starting point for future modifications.
Are there any companies that sell *high quality* fully assembled keyboards that are fully customisable after the fact? (Most importantly hot swap switches) >

Not really. There are some pretty decent pre assembled boards out there, but will not that great stock. They're perfectly usable, but not what I would call well lubed/tuned. So they won't be great reference points as to what a well built custom really feels like.
Preassembled Keychron Q series boards are a good spot to start at. They are sort of the entry into custom cnc aluminum kits with a decent mounting system. Can be improved with a few simple mods. They are somewhat outclassed by recent kits though. Qwertykeys and Meletrix have been coming out with better boards at relatively similar price points to the Q series boards. Those aren't prebuilts though.
I've seen a few reviews about the iqunix og80 that say it's pretty out of the box. But from what I've seen it's somewhat annoying to open up and mod later on.
KBDfans offers an assembly and lube service, but I haven't personally used it or seen many reviews. >

Thanks! That's a bit discouraging. The qwertykeys board I've seen recommended is obviously out of stock. I guess I'll do some more research and perhaps buy a keychron kit, if it's in stock...
(What the heck is up with the custom keyboard industry by the way? If everything is constantly out of stock, isn't that a hint that demand is higher than supply? Just produce more! It doesn't make any sense to me.) >

it has always been this way they do produce more demand just cannot keep up with supply also many of the items in this hobby are considered niche items and manufacturers are fine with how things are . if stuff sells out the first day it restocks they r fine with it not like they r lossing money because of this . even stuff like the qwertykets line of kbs does rolling preorders with thousands each round and it sells out in the first day . they r ordering as many as they can >

I'm not even able to select out-of-stock items on qwertykeys' webstore. What am I supposed to do if I want one of their boards? Refresh several times per day for weeks or months and hope to see them in stock?
​

it not like they r lossing money because of this

Pretty sure that's not how economics works. If it's not in stock, people will try to find something else, like I will. >

Refreshing their site isn’t needed, as they typically announce their Group Buy/Pre-orders via newsletters or discord. 
If you want a more ‘conventional’ supply chain, then Akko or Keychron offer quite a few keyboards that are available for retail purchase whenever you want. 
The quality of the item will still be solid; it just won’t be custom because it’s a regularly restocked item, rather than a one off run. >

Need a new keyboard.
Must be somewhat silent, have a RGB setting that makes one key glow after pressing, 87+ keys and cheap. >

You are basically asking for "something to drink" in the biggest drink bar in the world.
Most rgb keyboard have that function you are asking for.
The silent part depends on the switches and your own mods to the keyboard.
The "Cheap" is different for everyone, i consider 150$ expensive while there's people thinking 300$ is cheap af.
If you give a price range i'll give you some recommendations. >

I am stuck at like 120 wpm and I just can't get ahead. What do you guys  think is the next step to getting my typing speed above 120? >

What is the full sized switch that feels and sounds the most like the gl clicky on the g815 / g915?
I would like to put some in a hot swappable mechanical keyboard >

Full sized switch? >

I guess regular sized switch as opposed to low profile lol >

Honestly I have no idea about clicky switches but I have enjoyed kailh box navys in the past >

akko v3 cream blue vs gateron milky yellow pro
which is better stock? >

Really depends on preference. One is tactile and long pole. The other is linear and has a factory lube. >

Is akko v3 smooth as gateron yellow? Also what is long pole if u dont mind >

I haven't tried either so I can't say. Long pole switches have a longer pole on the stem which reduces the travel distance and has a sharper and louder bottom out. >

Any keyboard with same spec, same layout as monsgeek m1 but north facing? >

Any reason for north facing? Kinda hard in the hobby, mostly because some have interference with keycaps profile. >

i want backlit keycaps, i dont like south facing because it making RGB horribly bad >

😅 maybe try some translucent keysets from kbdfans if you cant find a north facing board. >

😁ok thanks, maybe i'm gonna bought M1 with side printing keycaps >

Maybe zoom tkl extras on dangkeebs soon >

Zoom tkl is nice but the red they have is a bit too bright and doesn't have the slightly purplish red color I'm looking for >

Not sure if geon gonna make another run of frogs soon but maybe the burgundy frog? >

Any keycap recommendations for the zoom65 v2 in the red color way? >

Some ideas I have include, if you don't want to have to wait a while you could go for, gmk bento r2 or gmk red samurai. If your okay with waiting a while for gb extras, gmk lychee, gmk infernal, or gmk Jamón 2 would go well. If you need me to provide links, just let me know. >

Do you have a link for the bento R2s? And you know any other key ap recommendations under 75$? >

Here the link I would not recommend getting keycaps under $75. Keycaps is one area of the board where going more budget  can cause serious issues such as stem cracking and damaging your switches as well as not lasting a very long time due to being dysub not doubleshot. >

Aight thank you >

Sure thing 👍 >

i got my first keyboard recently and i bought kailh heavy box burnt oranges to go with it. i really like their weight but i don't find them tactile and loud enough. are there any switches that have a similar/slightly heavier weight but a much more noticeable tactile bump (and preferably sound better too)? >

Kailh box navy is slightly heavier, has a very noticeable bump, and is loud as hell. They are clicky switches, not tactile, but they seem like the kind of thing you’re looking for. 
One of my keyboards has them and they’re my favorite switches.
Edit- the box jade is similar to the navy but would have a closer weight to what you currently have. >

You can game on pretty much anything, but in terms of reliability and responsiveness, Cherry and basic Gaterons switches have stood the test of time and it's hard to go wrong with them. If you want to improve the feel, you can do a little DIY by spring swapping and lubing them.
If you want something with actual gaming benefits, look into Hall Effect switches like the ones on the Steelseries Apex Pro and Wooting boards. >

How big is the difference between a mem chanical and mechanical boards? About to make the switch to mechnical boards >

Very big difference.
"Mem-chanical" is still a rubber dome keyboard, it just uses a slider so there's a bit of travel before you contact the rubber dome. >

Ok lads bit of a basic bitch question but what can I say. Been looking for my next keyboard for a while and entered a pickle can't decide between Logitech G PRO X and DuckyOne3 anyone had experience with these to give a suggestions. >

Is there anywhere online I could find the Cherry MX Speed Silvers? >

Best brands for ~70-80 $ keycap sets? >

Why does it seem like everyone prefers to have a wired keyboard? Is it just so you don’t have to charge it ever? >

i rarely use it anywhere other than my desk. the keebs i have that have multi option (bt/wireless/wired), i always keep wired at my desk as i dont wanna charge it in the middle of something. 
another thing is - i really like my coiled aviator cables haha :) >

I have a plate mount TKL ( SC mysterium) and there is a huge gap between the back of the PCB and the bottom of the Inside of the case. This means the pcb is kind of just hanging on by the switches and flexes a lot. Is this normal? And how can I fix it? It seems like there should be something better to support the heavy pcb not just a face plate in between switches…. >

PCB hanging by the switches in plate mounted keyboard is a intended design in keyboards. I wrote intended because when PCB is "supported" or fixed to the bottom case the resonance from typing increases significantly in the bad way.
Because the plate takes all the pleasure from typing the PCB should be fine even if it is flexing, don't worry about it.
If you insist you can put EVA foam under the PCB to support it from extreme flexing but it will mute the sound. >

Does Epomaker renew stock in their European Amazon storefronts? Or whenever something is gone, it’s sold out forever? >

they most likey restock but when it a question for them as they do advertise that info to us >

Thanks, just wondering whether it was worth holding out for local stock, placing an order to an aliexpress vendor under their name that does have the ISO keyboard I want, or just go with a different model altogether. I guess I'll wait since I'm not particularly in a hurry. >

Hey everyone,
I recently built an NK65 and it sounds great and everything is awesome except the stabilizers are a total mess.  This is my first time building a keyboard, so I'm sure that is a big part of the problem.
​
For every stabilizer, there is a "strong" side and a "weak" side.  When depressing the "strong" side the sound is very deep and there is no rattle, but when pressing the "weak" side there is a ticking and the keycap kinda shimmies on the way down and during the rebound.  I don't know if this is because I have put the keycap on the keys incorrectly (if that's possible?) or because of how I've tuned the stabilizers.
For each stabilizer I lubed the wire, the inside of the housing.  For one set I even lubed the stem of the stabilizer, but this stabilizer has the exact same problems as the others.
I have put small pads on the pcb where the steam makes contact, but this has not solved the problem.  I also tried putting bandaids and small pads between the clip-in stabilizers and the plate, this made no difference at all there is still this "strong" and "weak" side problem.
​
Any ideas here? I'm going crazy.  I'm sure I'm missing something simple, but no matter what I try I can't get this to go away.  It isn't really a super big deal when typing, but it just really bothers me after spending this much money.
​
This is the keyboard, but I doubt that makes a difference:
NK65 oblivion
Black ink v2 (lube/film)
pbtfans resonance
stock stabilizers
Thanks for reading! >

From your description, I  believe that the stabilizer wires are not balanced. It'd be easier to look up some videos on stabilizer tuning to try and fix that. The stock stabilizers could also just be subpar. >

I don't k now of any full sized ones, but there are the Keychron Q65  and EVO70.
The left hand column is called XT if you want to try to find other custom kits. >

Thanks, and as you can see, it's nearly impossible to find a full size keeb with these features I need :( 
Thanks for the tip on XT name. >

Are there any wireless hot swappable macropads with a knob, qmk/via, and at least 16 keys (arrange in 4x4), basically the Megalodon Triple Knob Macropad but wireless lol >

I don't think so. There are compatibility issues with QMK and wireless I believe. >

Dang not even over Bluetooth? >

if you must have wireless…. >

Thanks for the recommendation! I'll consider >

Hello everyone, 
I’m fairly a noob when it comes to keyboard modding but I’ve been planning on adding a coiled cable to my G80-1800, though I don’t know what’s the procedure is like. 
Is it as easy as buying a coiled cable and replacing the standard one with it? Or does it require a completely different board?
Thank you >

maybe this is of help; link
you could probably add a female usb port this way and use a detachable cable after >

Thank you, though this calls for scratching the board to make room for the socket which is not good for me >

Hi everyone, I want to start out with my first custom mechanical keyboard. I am new to this, and I simply don’t understand why I can’t seem to find one with a numpad on it. Why is this? >

because full size layout is not popular in the custom world. 1800 and full size compact layout are more common though. keychron and akko has some options but they are more pre-build than custom. kbdfans has the odin v2 (compact full size).
and for 3 more days there is a GB for a full size, which is rather rare: Fossil >

Thanks for the answer. and some options! My quest continues :) >

Checkout cannonkeys 1800, they have 2 boards with thst layout. Not sure if those might work for you >

Great, thank you! >

Hi everyone. I have a question about keyswitches.
Do box and dust-proofed switches have the same wobbling feel?
I am looking for a tactile keyswitch that does not wobble at all, like the keyboards on new MacBooks or something similar on other laptops. I wonder how box keyboards and dust-proofed keyboards are different in terms of wobbling. Or I might be wrong that the wobbling depends on these additional stems. I intend to buy AKKO V3 Cream Blue if it does not wobble.
I ordered the Keychron K3 Pro yesterday after using RK68 for a month. Now I think what I might need is just a membrane keyboard that does not wobble and feels tactile. Is there any good option for that too? >

yeah the wobble isn't influenced by the dust cover. it depends on the switch itself.
there are some with almost no wobble i.e. from gazzew
topre would have no wobble whatsoever, a hybrid between mech and membrane >

I'm looking to buy my first mechanical keyboard. My primary use case is having a keyboard I can bring in my backpack for when I have an office away from home, and I've decided I'm going to go used in order to cut costs and try out some different switches and whatnot. 
I've found three potential buys: A Keychron Q1 and GMMK Pro for roughly the same price, and a Keychron K2 v2 for a bit less than half that. (I did look at the K3, but wanted something with a "normal" form factor so that I could have more options when it came to testing out switches & keycaps.)
The cost isn't a problem either way. If I went for the K2 I'd  probably spend the difference on caps & switches out the gate, while with the others I'd be more inclined to stay with the "stock" version for a while.
Any thoughts on which I should pursue? >

I've found the carrying case of either of those cases quite bulky and it doesn't fit in my (quite large) bag. As a compromise a company called lofree has a keyboard with a built-in case but no hotswap I know of. But it comes with some nice switches stock. >

should i get the maxfit67, ltc nb831, or the feker ik75? >

Maxfit67. Otherwise there's a new brand called Mathew tech on AliExpress which has some nice boards. >

well, i guess there’s more to it. which one is the sturdiest? which one is the easiest to mod? >

Hey guys! I'm looking for 100% or 95%-ish keyboard withing $100 budget (focus on overall silent and yet tactile switches). My best guess was Keychron V5/V6, but assembled versions with brown switches are out of stocks on their official website and even on Taobao. 
Is there any other good choices at this moment, on Taobao or Amazon/etc? My next idea was to take barebone version of V6 from Tao, but I'm not sure about which switches and keycaps to get from there (to ship it all together) >

Keychron's Amazon store shows both of these in stock. >

any vial-qmk fork with rp2040 board merged in it that i can use? someone mentioned zykrah's fork. havent tried it but wondering if there are others? thanks >

Are you going to build your own keyboard or macropad? >

thanks. yes and it is already working but i need something that can be used with a vial configurator. >

Which keyboard {fork} do you have? >

currently using qmk_firmware master for the rp2040 keyboard. i also have vial-qmk fork but i believe rp2040 is still not implemented in its latest repository. >

Then you would need to update the fork you have >

Is the keychron q1 worth buying for 110$? Barebones btw >

version 2? even for it's normal price (159$) it's good value >

Mmm okay cos i already have an mw65 that i love rn and was wondering if you’d think its better quality than what i have rn >

Springy sound in a few keys, anything to worry about?  
I got my new Steelseries apex pro TKL keyboard, and all of the arrow keys make a springy sound, is this a sign that they are going to break later on? Is there a way to stop them from making that sound? Is it worth it to return the keyboard, I don't have the original box so I would have to buy one to return it. >

normal for mediocre switches. no need to worry. if it bothers you, you could swap out the pingy switches (or lube the current ones). but seing the apex isn't hotswap you would need to desolder the old switches >

Does nicePBT “a” have a smooth surface? Normal keycaps tend to have a slight texture but i was told nicePBT keycaps have this much smoother texture to them. Does that apply to these keycaps too? I want to make sure because it is a big part in my decision. >

I've never used nicePBT but if you're looking for smooth PBT caps I can vouch for CRP. Very smooth texture and great overall quality of the mold and dyesub. >

Hi there
I have been looking into building a keyboard after falling in love with all the "thock" going around but I have very little experience aside from youtube videos.
The problem is that I am from denmark and most videos (and links to buy parts) are with a US key layout.So my question is quite simple:Is it possible to reprogram the keys to fit a EU/Danish keyboard layout?
I understand I could just buy keycaps with Danish letters and switch my keyboard language on windows, but I am worried the underlying programming on the board is coded to a specific setup.
I tried searching in the Wiki for the subreddit and have been googling for ages. Sorry if this has already been answered or if it seems like a stupid question >

The layout you are typing in has nothing to do with the physical keyboard. The keyboard sends keycodes to the PC, and then the PC interprets those keycodes according to the keyboard you currently have active in Windows settings. The keyboard itself doesn't know what language it is. 
So absolutely nothing prevents you from using Danish layout using a physical ANSI keyboard, except for ANSI having one fewer physical key (not sure how much that matters, and whether workarounds are convenient). 
But also, if you care about having Danish layout on your keycaps, your choice of keycap sets will be severely limited. >

Hey there thanks alot for your comment and thank you for making me feel dumb 😁 Never really thought about the fact that the keyboard doesn't care and it all comes down to the windows settings 
50% of my day is in English anyway, so the Danish layout is not necessary.
Skål! >

I really need a new keyboard but im on a budget. I have done much research on the k530 pro but not on the RK61. Any reccomendations on what to buy and when? It would help me out a lot! >

did you also consider the V series of keychron?
IMO the better choice in that price range >

Looking for suggestions for tactile switches that feel nice with a board that has a solenoid
EDIT: narrowing it down to tactiles! Maybe modern ones that are kinda unique? >


feel nice with a board that has a solenoid

that would be preference what i think feel nice vs what u think feels nice are miles apart not many modern kbs have soleniods ( that accept modern switches ) so the chances of any one replying are very slim >

I know what my preferences are but I kinda don’t want to do that so I can explore more switches. So, any suggestions? I will edit my comment for now to narrow down to tactile switches. >

I am currently waiting for parts to build my Lilly58 keeb and I started  thinking about keyboard layers. I have looked at QMK and around this sub  and I have a good idea of how I would flash my keeb and use the  friendly configurator to map  my keys. However, this is the first time  that I will be using a keyboard this small so am aware of how little  inuitition/experience I will have on this and thus how likely I am to  make a terrible layout. I figured that people would share templates that  they use so that others can use them but I can't seem to find anything.  Perhaps, I'm not Googling the wrong phrases because it seems strange  that people wouldn't atleast recomend a rough structure for, say, a 65%  keyboard or a 58 key keyboard. Can anyone help enlighten me? >

every QMK has a default layout ur best bet is to use that as a base and go from there . there isnt much in terms of layout sharing as most people use a layout that fits what programs they use and their preferences .( different hand sizes or most used keys ) for example my kb has no capslock key programmed as i dont use it ever >

I'm looking to replace the default K100 OPX switches with similar optical switches that require much higher actuation force. My main problem is rest my fingers on the keycaps a lot and I have a lot of accidental presses registering due to how extremely sensitive these switches are. I like the switches themselves and the actuation distance but I just wish they required more actual force to register a keypress.
Does anyone know if Corsair offers such OPX switch alternatives and if not if there are any third parties that might? I really don't want run of the mill switches that aren't optical as that would lower response times.
And yes I've already asked on their forums with no response yet. >

You have no alternative switch options for that board. >

That software is all you have, yes. >

Newbie here in terms of mechanical keyboards. I'm looking at expanding into new keyboards and switches. So far I've only ever had a Razer Blackwidow Ultimate and a Roccat Volcan 121 (current). I liked both of them, but wanted to see more of what is out there. I've been eyeing some keyboards and was hoping to get other's opinions. I'm currently looking at at 96% keyboards (I like having the keypad, but also being more compact) with wired/unwired connections and to easily swappable switches (RGB is nice but not necessary). I've tried to look more at the guides on here, but there has been so much to go through. I've also looked at multiple different keyboard websites, but the ones I've kind of gravitated towards were all on Amazon. Does anyone have any recommendations based on these 5 keyboards or maybe others that I haven't considered? My other question is, I never replaced switches in my keyboard, are all switches compatible with these keyboards, in case I do not care for the swtiches they come with or want to try different ones?
BOYI TK96, YUNZII Qeekestudio CR960, EPOMAKER TH96, Akko 3098N, YUNZII Royalaxe Y98 >

No idea about the boyi one but yes, all switches should fit on The other keyboards. The best option is the akko 3098n >

LOGITECH G Pro X or should I build my own?
Hi, I’m a noob so please don’t get angry at me lol
I’m looking for
• a CLICKY Keyboard (blue switches)
• low profile
• size doesn’t matter but 80% would be best
• mac compatible 
I want a keyboard for typing (i’m a translator and type quite a lot) and gaming. High profile isn’t for me, I type too quickly and accidentally push 4 other keys if they’re to high. As for the gaming part, I play LoL a bit, but mostly rpgs like the witcher and assassins creed. And stardew valley too lol
I tried (and liked it very much) razer ornata chroma v2. It’s perfect size and key height but from what I’ve read, it’s not really mechanical and basically overpriced 
The other one I like is LOGITECH G Pro X. It’s currently on sale in my local shop for 85$, has blue switches and all, but I would like to hear some opinions and maybe recommendations:) 
Also, i’m not sure if I would be able to replace the keys for low profile ones? They are mid i’d say, so would be perfect for gaming but typing was still a little bit hard (or maybe i just need some practice to get used to it? For last 4 years I’ve only been using my absolutely flat macbook keyboard so yeah lmao)
Thank you for any tips! >

Take a look at the Keychron K1 SE. High quality, low profile, and available with clicky switches. Unlike many keyboards that just "work with" a Mac this one is fully Mac compatible (has a switch to go between Mac or PC) and comes with the Mac keycaps. And the entry level model costs the same as the Logitech. >

I have pretty much browsed through EU stores but haven't found individual blank SA keycaps. I found them from ohkeycaps and was ordering but the shipping was around 70 euros. lol Any ideas? >

Can't say I ever came across in-stock SP stuff in EU stores. You can buy from SP directly over at pimpmykeyboard. I bought from there last year and shipping was like $20 to Croatia. >

Thanks, I did check them out as well but they do not have white blanks for anything else than the third row :/ >

Are there any laptops with ortholinear keyboards? Or more likely... a company/project/crowd-funder to create an ortholinear drop-in-replacement for an existing laptop keyboard? >

nope . due to laptop having proprietary design and chips in them its not possible . even a aftermarket maker cant source the kind of switches laptops use let alone keycaps for it . there is almost no demand for it so the costs might end up being half the price of a mid range laptop . i dont know anyone who would pay those kind of prices for a keyboard to put inside a laptop that would also void the warranty >

Bummer... I was thinking some of the more hacker-friendly laptops... perhaps one like the framework laptop, might have a niche community to make a swap-in alternative keyboard. >

Is it normal for companies to create shipment labels and not ship items for weeks?
I've been a lurker for a long time and finally bought the parts for my first build. I know that shipping takes a while in the keyboard world. Meletrix sent me a shipping label for my zoom tkl in early January and it still hasn't shipped. I'm just wondering if this is normal or if I should reach out to them. >

i mean u can reach out . stuff like group buys or large preorders yes they do print them out in advance as they have to takes along time to order print and pay for hundreds of labels >

Thanks. That makes sense. I didn't want to reach out and bother them if it's a completely normal thing to happen haha. >

How to tape mod my TH80? I read that you can't tape mode if the keyboard has a battery >

this will leave a residue that u will never get off fyi . no one rec electrical tape for this reason >

Are Redragon switches cheap? >

They’re rebranded Outemu switches. Not the best quality, but they’re compatible with Outemu hotswap sockets. If you have Kailh hotswap sockets, there are better options at that price point. >

Would Kailh box switches be better? Thank you 🙏 >

Just about anything will fit Kailh hotswap sockets, which is not the case for Outemu sockets. If there’s a Kailh switch you like, go for it. You could also go with Gateron, Akko, TCC, etc. >

I'm looking for a new keyboard and I think 75% or TKL would be my preferred size.
I need a UK ISO layout but my options for 75% seem really limited.
I want a prebuild as i'm not interested in building a keyboard as of rn and as far as I can tell my only options are a GMMK Pro pre-build which is £300 or a Keychron Q1 which is £180. 
My primary use would be gaming so latency is a big priority. I've heard both of the above don't have the best latency.
Any advice on which I should pick or if there's any other options I have? >

keychron has 1000hz poling rate with translates to 1ms latency. GMMK is overpriced. >

Any non-gb rgb keycaps with vertical legends (shift symbols above, not next to normal symbols)? Most rgb seems to either be horizontal legends or proprietary for some reason. Something like CoolerMaster RGB keycaps. >

While using my Varmilo on my Macbook Pro 2022, the option keys suddenly stopped working (both the left option and the right option).
I checked my settings, and nothing seems to be out of place. I tried an online keyboard test and pressed the option keys nothing happened, while the option keys from my laptop worked without a problem.
What could it be? It impossible to work like this as a software developer 😓
Thank you >

give this a try: press FN + OPT key (it's a toggle).
perhaps you accidentally pressed it >

Dang it! I was about to buy a new keeb 😅😅😅 thank you so much 🥹 >

glad to hear so! >

Im at my first custom keyboard, kbd67 lite, and sound of the stock stabs (cherry screw-ins) is kind of bothering me. Im just wondering if i should try to lube them and mod them a bit or if its worth it to buy new stabs aswell? Im not to scared of spending some extra on that if its worth it. I also take recommendations on where to buy keyboard stuff in Sweden (or in the EU)? >

Hi, guys:
I want to solve this use case: I like to use vim-keys (h, j, k, l) to go left-down-up-right. Many of my apps use them by default, and when not, I have those keys mapped on the Fn layer to do that.
BUT, using those keys while holding a bottom-right Fn key is supper uncomfortable and it almost makes my have a cramp my hand 🤣.
Do you know mechanical keyboards that have an Fn key on the left side of the keyboard to access another key-layer?
If possible, 60% keyboard, or at least TKL. >

Any QMK/VIA/VIAL compatible keyboard can do that >

I got a redragon K625P, and, as I should have expected but really 96%s are rare, I already ran out of spare switches because double clicks.
so my question is: what would be a good 96%/1800 clicky low profile keyboard? parts for a full custom, or replacement switches compatible withb the redragon low profile ones also help >

low profile switches are very unpopular ur options are very limited and futher limited by the fact that no to low profile switches use the same pin layout so anything that uses red dragon lowprofiles switches will only works with red dragon low profile switches . same goes for all other low profile brands . keep this in mind if  u absolutely need to use low profile switches  . there really isnt any parts for custom low profile kbs u would need to buy something liek a prebuilt like keychron ( they use either gateron low pro switches or thier own brand of keychron low profile switches ) >

Is there something like the GMMK Pro but in 100%? A vendor that allows you to select case, switches, keycaps, etc. but has a 100% option? >

none i know of 100% kbs are mostly just prebuilt and are the least popular size in the enthusiasts side of this hobby >

Keychron Q/V-series has full sized boards. >

SIMPLE: shine-through PBT keycaps for Keychron K2. The ones I find on amazon do not have the correct keys to fit the keys and shift on the right side of the spacebar. Thank you! >

AliExpress >

The normal "standard" for USB is Green & White for data, and black and red for power & ground. Without seeing the PCB this came from, your guess is as good as mine >

Hello!
Some help or advice,
Asus ROG Falchion 65% or Ducky ONE 3 Classic SF 65% ?
I want to replace my Asus echelon with a new one. >

What is your budget? >

150 >

I would get the stacked 1800 from cannonkeys and also get millmax sockets from divinikey along with your switches and stabs. I would go for tx stabs. But switches are entirely up to preference. For keycaps look on, omnitype, oblotzky.industries, or novelkeys. >

Thks >

these are usually called "XT" layout . example u could search for 65% XT keyboard and stuff will turn up . but as far as avail to buy stuff like that is 99% group buy stuff so its either wait for the group buy or buy at a mark up on r/mechmarket >

Much appreciated. >

I'm thinking about making custom sticker / decals for my keycaps, How exactly would one go about doing that? Is there some sort of layout / guide i could use in like photoshop to make the custom decals? Thanks.  
(I have a razer blackwidow fullsized keyboard) >

etsy has a few shops who do stuff liek this never seen publicly availed templates  they would differ from each keycap profile due to each profile has different surface area >

Ever-wise internet friends, i'd love to upgrad to an ergonomic mechanical keyboard.  I have a low vision condition that would make lit-up keys super-super convenient.
btw, when i think of 'ergonomic' im thinking of the split formfactor like on microsoft keyboards.  
Any suggestions?  thank you !!!! >

Is there a trick to getting a keyboard to be recognized in Via?
I have a Zoom65 and am trying to set it up with Via. I downloaded their JSON and uploaded it in Via's design tab, it shows up, and the key tester is working. When I go to the Configure tab, though, it sits on Authorize Device forever and never gives me an option to actually configure the board. 
Is this expected? How can I actually configure my keyboard? >

Hello guys,
I am new to mechanical keyboards and am looking for a replacement/upgrade for my Logitech G613. Some criteria I have been figuring out are 100%, support for a 2.4Ghz receiver (need to use with KVM), hopefully hot-swappable (starting with some budget option but with the possibility to upgrade later), and thinking about tactile switches. Keychron seemed like a good option, but I don't like that they don't have 2.4Ghz receiver. In the end, I could go wired, which would solve many problems, but I wonder if finding a 100% base board with a 2.4Ghz receiver is possible. I am researching options here, but I wanted to ask if anybody has any advice or recommendation. >

100% is a not a common layout in this hobby. 1800 layout is a bit more common if you’re looking for a numpad. Also, wireless is good for when you need to connect multiple devices, but it has latency issues and isn’t as fast or advantageous as a wireless mouse. Wired is generally preferred for home setups, especially is gaming is something you do regularly >

Yes, I am open to 96% or 1800, as I noticed that 100% is quite uncommon. I understand that wired is better for latency, but I'm not looking for competitive gaming, just casual. When I was investigating layouts, I found out that I am using numpad and home/end, insert, etc. keys quite a bit. I just try to minimize the amount of cables, but it seems that what I am looking for is quite difficult to find, so I will probably give up 2.4 Ghz connectivity. Thanks a lot! >


Maybe somebody who manufactures custom bases too?

Not relevant - built-in wristrests are not a custom keyboard feature and are typically found on the prebuilt gamer brands like your logitech. >

The vast majority of aftermarket keycaps are for MX-style switches. K4 has MX-style switches, so just about anything will work. I would just make sure that the sets your looking at have the right modifier sizes included, which is why Keychron lists those sizes on the second image. Any quality cap manufacturer will list the sizes included with the kit >

Thank you this is helpful >

Keychron does indeed sell palm wrests for the Q6. It’s also common in this hobby to just buy whatever wrist rest you want. Additionally, you might like the Q5, which is an 1800 and has the two rarely used “missing” keys remapped to the Fn key. >

Akko CS Jelly Purple vs Akko Jelly Purple switches
Hi there, I'm looking for a new keyboard and I think I found what I'm looking for, but the one I would like to get has the older Jelly Purple, while there is another one which is my second choice that has the new CS Jelly Purple. Is there a big difference between these two switches? How do they compare in feel and sound? >

CS is better quality, but you can also just buy a board barebones and throw whatever you want on there