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I'm looking to buy my first mechanical keyboard. My primary use case is having a keyboard I can bring in my backpack for when I have an office away from home, and I've decided I'm going to go used in order to cut costs and try out some different switches and whatnot. 
I've found three potential buys: A Keychron Q1 and GMMK Pro for roughly the same price, and a Keychron K2 v2 for a bit less than half that. (I did look at the K3, but wanted something with a "normal" form factor so that I could have more options when it came to testing out switches & keycaps.)
The cost isn't a problem either way. If I went for the K2 I'd  probably spend the difference on caps & switches out the gate, while with the others I'd be more inclined to stay with the "stock" version for a while.
Any thoughts on which I should pursue?
Hi. I currently live in a place where there is often dust in the atmosphere, and I would like to keep my keyboard clean from dust as well as from other particles. However, removing & adding back the keys every time I want to clean it, is a pain in the ass, since I have to do it pretty often. Is there any other way to achieve it? Would any air compressor work or is there something better? >

Compressed air would work
Also you could use a small towel to place over your keeb when you aren't using it >

no idea, its a thing (people being downvoted) that happens in the daily threads >

How can I re-attach the non slip foot to the bottom of my ducky one 2? One of them fell off months ago, and it's been hard times ever since. I've tried hot glue, but no luck. >

Use different glue >

That just might be crazy enough to work. >

Looks like the last community poll was done in 2017.  Are there any plans to do another? >

Probably not, they're not particularly useful. >

I want to get into building custom keyboards, but my hype has crashed pretty spectacularly lately, as any time I find any highly recommended products, they are sold out. Also, I'm afraid that when I'm done building my first keyboard, I won't really know if I've done a good job, since I have no reference point.
So now I've come to the conclusion that I would rather buy a pre-build (but "custom") keyboard that is really well put together, perfectly lubed and tuned and all that. This would give me a reference point for what a *well built* keyboard feels and sounds like, and give me a starting point for future modifications.
Are there any companies that sell *high quality* fully assembled keyboards that are fully customisable after the fact? (Most importantly hot swap switches) >

Not really. There are some pretty decent pre assembled boards out there, but will not that great stock. They're perfectly usable, but not what I would call well lubed/tuned. So they won't be great reference points as to what a well built custom really feels like.
Preassembled Keychron Q series boards are a good spot to start at. They are sort of the entry into custom cnc aluminum kits with a decent mounting system. Can be improved with a few simple mods. They are somewhat outclassed by recent kits though. Qwertykeys and Meletrix have been coming out with better boards at relatively similar price points to the Q series boards. Those aren't prebuilts though.
I've seen a few reviews about the iqunix og80 that say it's pretty out of the box. But from what I've seen it's somewhat annoying to open up and mod later on.
KBDfans offers an assembly and lube service, but I haven't personally used it or seen many reviews. >

Thanks! That's a bit discouraging. The qwertykeys board I've seen recommended is obviously out of stock. I guess I'll do some more research and perhaps buy a keychron kit, if it's in stock...
(What the heck is up with the custom keyboard industry by the way? If everything is constantly out of stock, isn't that a hint that demand is higher than supply? Just produce more! It doesn't make any sense to me.) >

it has always been this way they do produce more demand just cannot keep up with supply also many of the items in this hobby are considered niche items and manufacturers are fine with how things are . if stuff sells out the first day it restocks they r fine with it not like they r lossing money because of this . even stuff like the qwertykets line of kbs does rolling preorders with thousands each round and it sells out in the first day . they r ordering as many as they can >

I'm not even able to select out-of-stock items on qwertykeys' webstore. What am I supposed to do if I want one of their boards? Refresh several times per day for weeks or months and hope to see them in stock?
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it not like they r lossing money because of this

Pretty sure that's not how economics works. If it's not in stock, people will try to find something else, like I will. >

Refreshing their site isn’t needed, as they typically announce their Group Buy/Pre-orders via newsletters or discord. 
If you want a more ‘conventional’ supply chain, then Akko or Keychron offer quite a few keyboards that are available for retail purchase whenever you want. 
The quality of the item will still be solid; it just won’t be custom because it’s a regularly restocked item, rather than a one off run. >

Need a new keyboard.
Must be somewhat silent, have a RGB setting that makes one key glow after pressing, 87+ keys and cheap. >

You are basically asking for "something to drink" in the biggest drink bar in the world.
Most rgb keyboard have that function you are asking for.
The silent part depends on the switches and your own mods to the keyboard.
The "Cheap" is different for everyone, i consider 150$ expensive while there's people thinking 300$ is cheap af.
If you give a price range i'll give you some recommendations. >

I am stuck at like 120 wpm and I just can't get ahead. What do you guys  think is the next step to getting my typing speed above 120? >

What is the full sized switch that feels and sounds the most like the gl clicky on the g815 / g915?
I would like to put some in a hot swappable mechanical keyboard >

Full sized switch? >

I guess regular sized switch as opposed to low profile lol >

Honestly I have no idea about clicky switches but I have enjoyed kailh box navys in the past >

akko v3 cream blue vs gateron milky yellow pro
which is better stock? >

Really depends on preference. One is tactile and long pole. The other is linear and has a factory lube. >

Is akko v3 smooth as gateron yellow? Also what is long pole if u dont mind >

I haven't tried either so I can't say. Long pole switches have a longer pole on the stem which reduces the travel distance and has a sharper and louder bottom out. >

Any keyboard with same spec, same layout as monsgeek m1 but north facing? >

Any reason for north facing? Kinda hard in the hobby, mostly because some have interference with keycaps profile. >

i want backlit keycaps, i dont like south facing because it making RGB horribly bad >

😅 maybe try some translucent keysets from kbdfans if you cant find a north facing board. >

😁ok thanks, maybe i'm gonna bought M1 with side printing keycaps >

Maybe zoom tkl extras on dangkeebs soon >

Zoom tkl is nice but the red they have is a bit too bright and doesn't have the slightly purplish red color I'm looking for >

Not sure if geon gonna make another run of frogs soon but maybe the burgundy frog? >

Any keycap recommendations for the zoom65 v2 in the red color way? >

Some ideas I have include, if you don't want to have to wait a while you could go for, gmk bento r2 or gmk red samurai. If your okay with waiting a while for gb extras, gmk lychee, gmk infernal, or gmk Jamón 2 would go well. If you need me to provide links, just let me know. >

Do you have a link for the bento R2s? And you know any other key ap recommendations under 75$? >

Here the link I would not recommend getting keycaps under $75. Keycaps is one area of the board where going more budget  can cause serious issues such as stem cracking and damaging your switches as well as not lasting a very long time due to being dysub not doubleshot. >

Aight thank you >

Sure thing 👍 >

i got my first keyboard recently and i bought kailh heavy box burnt oranges to go with it. i really like their weight but i don't find them tactile and loud enough. are there any switches that have a similar/slightly heavier weight but a much more noticeable tactile bump (and preferably sound better too)? >

Kailh box navy is slightly heavier, has a very noticeable bump, and is loud as hell. They are clicky switches, not tactile, but they seem like the kind of thing you’re looking for. 
One of my keyboards has them and they’re my favorite switches.
Edit- the box jade is similar to the navy but would have a closer weight to what you currently have. >

You can game on pretty much anything, but in terms of reliability and responsiveness, Cherry and basic Gaterons switches have stood the test of time and it's hard to go wrong with them. If you want to improve the feel, you can do a little DIY by spring swapping and lubing them.
If you want something with actual gaming benefits, look into Hall Effect switches like the ones on the Steelseries Apex Pro and Wooting boards. >

How big is the difference between a mem chanical and mechanical boards? About to make the switch to mechnical boards >

Very big difference.
"Mem-chanical" is still a rubber dome keyboard, it just uses a slider so there's a bit of travel before you contact the rubber dome. >

Ok lads bit of a basic bitch question but what can I say. Been looking for my next keyboard for a while and entered a pickle can't decide between Logitech G PRO X and DuckyOne3 anyone had experience with these to give a suggestions. >

Is there anywhere online I could find the Cherry MX Speed Silvers? >

Best brands for ~70-80 $ keycap sets? >

Why does it seem like everyone prefers to have a wired keyboard? Is it just so you don’t have to charge it ever? >

i rarely use it anywhere other than my desk. the keebs i have that have multi option (bt/wireless/wired), i always keep wired at my desk as i dont wanna charge it in the middle of something. 
another thing is - i really like my coiled aviator cables haha :) >

I have a plate mount TKL ( SC mysterium) and there is a huge gap between the back of the PCB and the bottom of the Inside of the case. This means the pcb is kind of just hanging on by the switches and flexes a lot. Is this normal? And how can I fix it? It seems like there should be something better to support the heavy pcb not just a face plate in between switches…. >

PCB hanging by the switches in plate mounted keyboard is a intended design in keyboards. I wrote intended because when PCB is "supported" or fixed to the bottom case the resonance from typing increases significantly in the bad way.
Because the plate takes all the pleasure from typing the PCB should be fine even if it is flexing, don't worry about it.
If you insist you can put EVA foam under the PCB to support it from extreme flexing but it will mute the sound. >

Does Epomaker renew stock in their European Amazon storefronts? Or whenever something is gone, it’s sold out forever? >

they most likey restock but when it a question for them as they do advertise that info to us >

Thanks, just wondering whether it was worth holding out for local stock, placing an order to an aliexpress vendor under their name that does have the ISO keyboard I want, or just go with a different model altogether. I guess I'll wait since I'm not particularly in a hurry. >

Hey everyone,
I recently built an NK65 and it sounds great and everything is awesome except the stabilizers are a total mess.  This is my first time building a keyboard, so I'm sure that is a big part of the problem.
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For every stabilizer, there is a "strong" side and a "weak" side.  When depressing the "strong" side the sound is very deep and there is no rattle, but when pressing the "weak" side there is a ticking and the keycap kinda shimmies on the way down and during the rebound.  I don't know if this is because I have put the keycap on the keys incorrectly (if that's possible?) or because of how I've tuned the stabilizers.
For each stabilizer I lubed the wire, the inside of the housing.  For one set I even lubed the stem of the stabilizer, but this stabilizer has the exact same problems as the others.
I have put small pads on the pcb where the steam makes contact, but this has not solved the problem.  I also tried putting bandaids and small pads between the clip-in stabilizers and the plate, this made no difference at all there is still this "strong" and "weak" side problem.
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Any ideas here? I'm going crazy.  I'm sure I'm missing something simple, but no matter what I try I can't get this to go away.  It isn't really a super big deal when typing, but it just really bothers me after spending this much money.
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This is the keyboard, but I doubt that makes a difference:
NK65 oblivion
Black ink v2 (lube/film)
pbtfans resonance
stock stabilizers
Thanks for reading! >

From your description, I  believe that the stabilizer wires are not balanced. It'd be easier to look up some videos on stabilizer tuning to try and fix that. The stock stabilizers could also just be subpar. >

I don't k now of any full sized ones, but there are the Keychron Q65  and EVO70.
The left hand column is called XT if you want to try to find other custom kits. >

Thanks, and as you can see, it's nearly impossible to find a full size keeb with these features I need :( 
Thanks for the tip on XT name. >

Are there any wireless hot swappable macropads with a knob, qmk/via, and at least 16 keys (arrange in 4x4), basically the Megalodon Triple Knob Macropad but wireless lol >

I don't think so. There are compatibility issues with QMK and wireless I believe. >

Dang not even over Bluetooth? >

if you must have wireless…. >

Thanks for the recommendation! I'll consider >

Hello everyone, 
I’m fairly a noob when it comes to keyboard modding but I’ve been planning on adding a coiled cable to my G80-1800, though I don’t know what’s the procedure is like. 
Is it as easy as buying a coiled cable and replacing the standard one with it? Or does it require a completely different board?
Thank you >

maybe this is of help; link
you could probably add a female usb port this way and use a detachable cable after >

Thank you, though this calls for scratching the board to make room for the socket which is not good for me >

Hi everyone, I want to start out with my first custom mechanical keyboard. I am new to this, and I simply don’t understand why I can’t seem to find one with a numpad on it. Why is this? >

because full size layout is not popular in the custom world. 1800 and full size compact layout are more common though. keychron and akko has some options but they are more pre-build than custom. kbdfans has the odin v2 (compact full size).
and for 3 more days there is a GB for a full size, which is rather rare: Fossil >

Thanks for the answer. and some options! My quest continues :) >

Checkout cannonkeys 1800, they have 2 boards with thst layout. Not sure if those might work for you >

Great, thank you! >

Hi everyone. I have a question about keyswitches.
Do box and dust-proofed switches have the same wobbling feel?
I am looking for a tactile keyswitch that does not wobble at all, like the keyboards on new MacBooks or something similar on other laptops. I wonder how box keyboards and dust-proofed keyboards are different in terms of wobbling. Or I might be wrong that the wobbling depends on these additional stems. I intend to buy AKKO V3 Cream Blue if it does not wobble.
I ordered the Keychron K3 Pro yesterday after using RK68 for a month. Now I think what I might need is just a membrane keyboard that does not wobble and feels tactile. Is there any good option for that too? >

yeah the wobble isn't influenced by the dust cover. it depends on the switch itself.
there are some with almost no wobble i.e. from gazzew
topre would have no wobble whatsoever, a hybrid between mech and membrane