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Dang! I'll have to look at some tutorials to do those mods! Looks great too!
If you can muster up the $ to send me your board, I will attempt to fix it for you free of charge if you are continental USA. You can get very affordable shipping through a service like pirate ship (they sell the label essentially for usps and ups). At this point I’ve built hundreds of boards and if the pcb is repairable, I should be able to do it. >

Vouch for Cob, great guy and he will definitely help you if you can get the board to him >

<3 >

That would be amazing! If it fits within my price range, I'd love to be able to ship it over to you :) >

How much is shipping in the us? Because in EU its pretty cheap. >

I find it expensive:( >

How much is it? >

With pirate ship you can ship a board for around 10-15 USD USPS or UPS depending on the dimensions, a PCB by itself can be $5-7 via USPS first class. >

While u/Cobertt had heroically stepped in to save the day, I'd like to add that on a hot swap board, you should really take the PCB and plate out and lay on a flat surface when changing switches, or at least support the hot swap sockets from the rear by hand when inserting switches.  It's very common (there are many posts each weak about this) to break hot swap sockets when inserting switches if the switch pins are not perfectly straight.  Very few manufacturers put any kind of warning in their literature about this, so please...  open the case and support the hot swap socket from the rear when inserting switches.  If you can't open the case, then ensure all switch pins are arrow straight before fitting, and don't just push the switch in.... feel it in...and make sure the pins are actually entering the hot swap sockets before pushing all the way home. >

Ooh okay; thank you very much! I had no idea and the instructional video just kinda tugged it out :) >

Pulling it out is fine... you won't break anything removing a switch, it's fitting them that can cause the PCB damage. >

Sounds like you just need to have that specific hotswap socket replaced on the PCB, if Cob will do it for free send it to him. Not all heroes wear a cape… >

Seeing stuff like this makes me worry. My own Yunzii KC68 is arriving today. Only seen relatively positive stuff, here and there some negative things but never about failures of any kind. >

Im using  Yunzii KC68  as a daily driver for about a year now. Cant say a bad word about that keyboard. >

I've been using it and tinkering with it for the past 2 hours. Seems like a really malleable keyboard. The upper plastic shroud looks like it can be prepped and painted easily, a few internal mods, tons of switch options, and loads of keycaps to choose from. It's a great piece of kit to get started in the hobby.  
I originally tried a Keychron K3 because I came from Apple keyboard. Too many mistakes when typing and have been enjoying using this keyboard with far less mistakes. Just not used to the key travel yet.
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By the way, did you mod your KC68 in any way? >

This is my keyboard
I holee moded stabs, inserted some foam in case and I have puted some painters tape on pcb. I was very pleased with results. I'm currently building CIY GAS67 but Im struggling with spacebar. Its not smooth, will have to disassemble the keyboard for third time 😓