>

Ooh okay; thank you very much! I had no idea and the instructional video just kinda tugged it out :)
If you can muster up the $ to send me your board, I will attempt to fix it for you free of charge if you are continental USA. You can get very affordable shipping through a service like pirate ship (they sell the label essentially for usps and ups). At this point I’ve built hundreds of boards and if the pcb is repairable, I should be able to do it. >

Vouch for Cob, great guy and he will definitely help you if you can get the board to him >

<3 >

That would be amazing! If it fits within my price range, I'd love to be able to ship it over to you :) >

How much is shipping in the us? Because in EU its pretty cheap. >

I find it expensive:( >

How much is it? >

With pirate ship you can ship a board for around 10-15 USD USPS or UPS depending on the dimensions, a PCB by itself can be $5-7 via USPS first class. >

While u/Cobertt had heroically stepped in to save the day, I'd like to add that on a hot swap board, you should really take the PCB and plate out and lay on a flat surface when changing switches, or at least support the hot swap sockets from the rear by hand when inserting switches.  It's very common (there are many posts each weak about this) to break hot swap sockets when inserting switches if the switch pins are not perfectly straight.  Very few manufacturers put any kind of warning in their literature about this, so please...  open the case and support the hot swap socket from the rear when inserting switches.  If you can't open the case, then ensure all switch pins are arrow straight before fitting, and don't just push the switch in.... feel it in...and make sure the pins are actually entering the hot swap sockets before pushing all the way home.