>

Does anything need to be done for the Libra Mini Joystick to function properly? It seems to be activating itself when i touch it (not move, no pressure added) and when I do press it, its very sensitive and triggers the wrong direction (pressing right makes it go down). 
​
It looks like everything is triggered when i use the right pcb. it doesn't happen on the left (the ghost pressing).
I recently got into this hobby and am looking around, but it seems like all the good custom keyboards are sold out. I looked at Mode Eighty, Haven65, Smith&Rune, etc... but I guess I was too late to join the hobby here.
Is there a page where I can get those updates?? I would love to know if there's a place so that I can check everyday for a keyboard that I like and purchase it when possible. >

Will someone please recommend a wireless mechanical keyboard brand or model #?  I would like to be able to be used while plugged in, but also be able to quickly unplug and take to the couch for some casual couch gaming/web surfing.  For reference I have a Razor mouse that works like that. >

Keychron K series is a good start, but it's only bluetooth so it's not gonna be that good for gaming, especially competitive. Then again you did say it's just casual gaming so that might not be a problem.
You really didn't specify a form factor but Keychron has pretty much all of the usual ones.
Also, I think pretty much all of Royal Kludge's boards have 2.4 GHz, EXCEPT for RK68, 920 and 925.
These are all the relatively cheap options that I know of. >

Thanks! >

These are not one specific set. They're a mix of several Signature Plastics SA sets - I recognize Pulse and Selectric. Don't know what the red and yellow ones are. >

are cherry clip in pcb/platemount stabs better than durock platemount stabs? also do clip in pcb stabs work on a platemout stab keyboard? >

Clip-in stabilizers are designed to mount directly on the PCB, just like screw-in stabilizers. If you have a keyboard with plate mounted stabilizers, you have to use plate mounted stabilizers. >

Any cheap pbt dyesub  black or grey dsa keycaps? >

Keychron maybe >

Bruh every keycap is wireless >

Oh wrong reply. Im talking someone on another post and thought u are answering my question >

Xd no worries >

Accent Qwerty International 
Hello,
i wanted to know how i can use accent with the qwerty international layout cuz i eared i have to do this ' + e = é but it's not working for me and i have no idea why. And in french we have to use it a lot so it's really anoying to use all the time the ascii table. >

Whats the difference between switch 1 and switch 2  other than the bottom color?TY >

The gateron pros have a different mold (supposedly smoother and has reduced stem wobble). The different 'color' is also a material change so there will be a sound difference >

Hey mechanical keyboard internet:
​
CAN keyboard cases be "too bad" for certain switches?
as in:
​
the case "limits the full capacity" of the switch/keycap combination?
​
Specifially I am looking at 75 % keyboards, q1, gmmk pro, keychron V1 and I start to like the V1 because of its lighter and slimmer form factor!...
​
I roughly plan to go for lubed drop holy pandas and PBT FANS Dolch Keycaps.
​
Is that viable or sort of "overkill" and for expensive switches and keycaps I should also have a "better" case (+modding or whatever) to even get out the "best sound".
​
Feel of the keycaps and basic feel/springyness etc. of the switches will obviously stay.
​
Thank you! >

No - sound would be the only difference if we isolate switches from everything else. >

Need help to find a slim wireless black (no grey keys) board .. wife approval.  I am aware of the Corsair one bit that is what 280.  Anything else out there similar? >

If you are looking for low profile depending on your budget, try Nuphy Air 75 It's around $100.  Or Keychron K1 or K3, or K4 if you need a full board with numpad.  You can get the Keychrons can find on Amazon for $100 or less.  And then you can mod them if you want to..and change the keycaps to whatever color she wants. >

!thanks not sure if this is done here but again thank you. >

Question: the niz atom 68 black 35g can it be purchased in a Norwegian layout or can the layout be changed if the keycaps are changed? >

I flashed my CRKBD (corne keyboard) a couple of times trying to RGB per layer working with RGB_MATRIX, At any rate, the last time I went to flash the board and pressed the reset button, the PCB didn't go into boot mode. I tied shorting the board with tweezers and the particular pin (I can't remember the names) but when I put back the microprocessor, it still would go back to boot mode, then I tied holding Q while putting the usb back in the socket, and something was going on, but it still wouldn't go back to bootmode, making my board un-flashable. I can use it, it types and changes rgb modes, but I cant flash it, using qmk-cli.
I wanted to add some custom keys...
Any advice would be appreciated. >

does anybody know how to remap the knob turns on the qk75, since when i turn it nothing happens and i can't find a way to change it. >

I spilled water on my FC900R a few days ago
A few keys are selectively not working now, I've gotten a few to work/work properly consistently with some compressed air but a few aren't budging
I can't find any disassembly guides online so I can get inside and diagnose the issues, and after removing the screws on the bottom of the board I'm lost as to what to do to take it apart next
Any ideas?
Edit: After I got a lot of the water out directly after the spill nothing seemed to be broken on the keyboard. I just now have started having problems today. >

Hi, does anyone know if changing the plate material changes the switches feel on the stabilizers? >

Hi Everyone, I just have a couple questions regarding my first keyboard I just built. I got a qwertykeys qk75 for my first board and all went will in the build process, very happy with it. I just cant seem to find anywhere on qwertykeys website and or videos online on how to check the wireless battery life on the board. Does anyone know if this is a feature, or if they can on their qk60/65? Im assuming it is probably similar to those. Thanks in advance! >

most kbs like this u cannot check battery life >

Just wondering since ive never worked with the material before, can i sand down the standoffs on a polycarbonate case without cracking so i can properly use my oring as im concerned if i use power tools and such it might crack, so would using some sandpaper and elbow grease remove the standoffs? the case is a mekanisk klippe T r4 >

what's a good budget tkl build for around £120, that would also include all supplies, such as lube if needed, im in the uk, so if you have any places that i can buy from that would be nice. >

Hello guys, right here i am attempting to buy a specific keyboard, but in general is there any way i can find second hand ones that tell you how long they've used it for?(they dont have to specify how many times theyve actuated on their keyboard  because legit no one would want to count how many times theyve clicked keys everyday) >

r/mechmarket
You can also search on keebsforall.com they are practically eBay for keyboards. They also check the products being sold in their marketplace and certify the quality of it and rate it out of 5 >

thanks allot i needed that >

I bought around 1 month ago the Adam kit from kdbcraft, today arrived, assembled and doesn't work. Why? >

Here's a crazy idea. Metallic keycaps with 2 different metals like double shot ABS keycaps. Why has no manufacturer tried it? Metallic Aluvia and AluMizu does have takers and are considerably successful correct? >

I'm no machinist but I bet you'd have to essentially cnc two pieces per keycap which doesn't sound cheap and considering a tkl base kit is already like 400 dollars that'll be pretty pricey >

Question! Does cherry profile keycaps work on this gk61? if it does does anyone have any suggestions on sub $40 white keycaps? >

GK61 has north facing LEDs so that means there could very well be interference on the 3rd row for cherry profile. If you still want a cherry profile and this board, there are switches that get around the issue. I know off the top of my head Gateron Oil Kings, and any long pole switch will prevent any interference. >

do my switches look like a long pole switch? >

I don't know what switches you're planning to use?
Also for under $40 you're gonna have to sacrifice some quality, but I've heard HK gaming has some good ones for the price. Check out this link here and see if there's any you like. If you just want pretty much all white, try looking up black on white keycaps aliexpress, you'd probably find some there for under 40 >

I have 68g outemu sky switches I got in early 2020 and gateron browns. Only 2 tactile switches I have experience with. How different are outemu milk tea, ut4x, u4t, u4 silent, and outemu red pandas from each other and the outemu sky and gateron browns? >

not sure about the outemu ones but the u4 series are much sharper than the gateron browns >

Can I buy Polycaps Seal keycaps in the EU? >

yeah, here on divinikey >

This is kineticlabs? I looked it up and both divinikey and kineticlabs are US-based >

Oh then I saw wrong >

So I don't know what "stabilized" is... But no, you won't find a similar sounding keyboard and that's a great thing about this hobby - everything sounds kinda different. But you can get some nice sounding prebuild keyboards. Maybe check out the keychron q series, qk75 (the assembled version), ... and just scroll YouTube for some prebuilts.
These would be my suggestions although somebody else may have better ones >

I mean, similar is subjective, and if you're really into the hobby I guess nothing sounds the same. But I just like the "dull" sound of the one in the video I linked. Looking for something that sounds "dull" like that one. I think the q series still sounds very "sharp", same for qk75. Sure, I could do loads of modding, but I'm not really interested in doing so :) >

Well those are apparently ceramic keycaps which are extremely niche, nothing prebuilt comes with that. If you want a "duller" sound though, try looking at plastic cases with plastic plates. >

Excited to get my first board, but want to be real sure about the feel of the switches, so I consider ordering the Gateron 35 switch sample. Issue is, afaik it doesn't come with a keycap to put on top of the switches. So, question: can I test the switches' feel and understand what I like without buying and putting keycaps on first? >

keycaps can make a big difference, you should get a sample pack of the brand you like aswell. >

Looking for parts for a 75% acrylic ISO keyboard!
Hello everyone,
as the title suggests, I am looking to build a 75% clear stacked acrylic keyboard with an ISO layout, preferably with the big enter DE layout as I am from germany and used to it. I already did some research on a case but I can't seem to wrap my head around all the possibilities.
I hope to be able to get your feedback on my preferences and which parts I should order.
-75% ISO DE layout 
-Black PCB with RGB LEDs 
-hot-swappable, possibly with the option for low-profile switches 
-2.4GHz wireless and cable, if possible
-black/clear keycaps (I know about pudding keycaps but I've seen clear keycaps with black tops somewhere but can't find them anymore)
-already know which switches l’Il get
The KiBoom Phantom81 would be a perfect keyboard for me but they don't have an ISO DE layout option. I own a keychron K7 and love the look and feel of it, if it would be possible to have something similar with more connectivity options (2.4GHz) and better programmable RGB, then I would be happy to be pointed that direction.
Sorry if this is not the place to ask for something like this, hope to count on you guys.
Greetings >

The idobao id80 crystal is full acrylic but doesn't have wireless unfortunately. For keycaps there's the g.skill crystal crown but i don't know if they have iso-de. >

I have a Wooting 60 HE and am looking to get a Tofu 60 case. I have been struggling to find one in stock but the Tofu 60 2.0 case just came out and is in stock. I was wondering if the Wooting 60 HE PCB would still work in this new case. Only thing is that the port on the wooting is top left, but the port on the 2.0 is in the middle. Not sure if there is any compatibility adapter or anything. But I assume that it probably wont fit? >

It wont fit into tofu 2.0 case and you wont be able to adapt it. Good thing is most 60% tray mount cases are compatible (tofu 2.0 is gasket mont). >

Ah ok, thanks for the useful information. >

Use the promotional flair and your should be good. But maybe don't post too often :)
But if you want to sell them, head over to r/mechmarket >

I do make YouTube shorts daily I guess its to much to post a short everyday?
How about photos is that also promotional? >

I honestly do not know. But mod mail exists for a good reason;) just ask them they are really helpful >

Currently looking for a hotswap TKL or 75% KB with an aluminum body & weight preferably. I like the Zoom TKL but, as always, it is very hard to find. Are the GMMK Pro and Keychron Q1 my best bets when it comes to availability in Europe? >

Look up the QK75. Although the group buy is over, candykeys will have extras in stock very soon. You could also try to buy on r/mechmarket >

I wasn't aware of the QK75's existence, thank you very much, it looks promising! I hope they restock soon. >

Prob not - QK75 is a group buy board so it probably won’t ever be in stock. There might be extras from your local vendors though. Otherwise Zoom75 and Jris75 will go into group buy at some point next month most likely. Zoom TKL will have another round of group buy Q2 this year >

I want a 75% keyboard. My budget is 128$ but i can go over 20$ if its necessary.
i dont want rgb just want a simple design but beautiful also i dont need the qmk/via, just need a board thats good for typing with good sound. (I need a black case and keycaps)
If its a barebone then it must be 65-85$ since im gonna get the boba u4t for 63.5$ (Edit: i want a wireless one, its fine to have rgb) >

If you're in the US & willing to assemble it, consider a Portico75, otherwise maybe a V1.
edit; note that rgb is too popular to find many widely-available boards without it, but it also doesn't affect the price much and you can turn it off >

Its fine with rgb since i can turn it off but i want a wireless one also (im in asia) >

K2 Pro is pretty good, or maybe something like a Skyloong GK84. >

Also i can go down to 60-65% keyboard >

Check out Leopold 660mbt or 650mbt. Those are the Bluetooth versions. I don't think you can get better value for the price with Leopold boards. No rgb puke. 
The problem is on mechanical keyboards dot com they don't have the black keycap version in Bluetooth, as of now. If you're open to the other colorways and okay with cherry switches they're fantastic. >

I want to try some new switches. I currently have self lubed glorious pandas but I’d like to try something different.
Only stuff available on allegro
For those unfamiliar it’s Polish Amazon
(If you don’t want to check it you, I’m limited to Akko and certain gatoron switches )
Thanks in advance >

You’d need to be a bit more specific- do you want tactile, linear, or clicky? Also what’s your budget? Since you’re from the EU I’m assuming you can use Aliexpress or EU vendors >

I want to cry something linear, and I’d prefer to avoid eu vendors and aliexpres and duty costs on these could be very high and make a cheap product expensive >

There’s not much point tbh. For Akko linears I would try radiant reds (long pole), matcha greens or jelly black (normal linears), Cream V3 yellow (new version of Akko linears, also long pole). For gateron hard to tell what’s available to you but oil kings are great >

Prob jelly blacks then >

ok, not any offerings from gatron? (I'm surprised because it was my impression was that akko was the good on the budget but not the best options) >

Akko is definitely better than stock gateron switches like reds or browns or imo even yellows. Gateron make some of the best switches (like oil king, CJ, and pure berry) but these aren’t usually sold on marketplaces like Amazon etc. Honestly if you want something good and relatively cheap EU vendors or Aliexpress are the best places. Idk about Poland but anything from Amazon here in the UK is significantly more expensive than going through Aliexpress >

i can get 110 Gateron CJ Dark blue for only 5 bucks more then 90 akko jelly blacks (the number doesnt batter too much as i use a tkl but it gives me more room for error) >

That doesn’t make sense. Jelly Blacks should be around $25-30 for 90, CJs are usually $50-60 for 90. So either Jelly Blacks are insanely overpriced where you’re buying or those CJs are sus >

images of board
one key stopped showing green and blue. only red. opened up the board, found this thing. any help is appreciated! >

thats the rgb led it prob is faulty of its dying this tends to happen with leds they sometimes have a short lifespan compared to what many hrs they r supposed to work >

thank you. how do i replace this? i can solder. i dont know what called to the rgb. >

there is hundreds of models version of those rgb leds pretty sure they r called "smd rgb led" no clue what one u will need as some model can look the same but be different >

I recently just bought the Redragon K617 Fizz and I'm wondering are Redragon keyboards durable? and what is the usual life span of a average Redragon keyboard. >

it really all depends on your use case but it should last for a while >

I have the Gamakay MK61 keyboard but their website doesn't have software available for it for MacOS. Any suggestions how I can otherwise customise my keyboard's lighting etc? >

Wanting to get into the hobby but I feel like my timing has been off and the options for what I want are not close to being available. Feel like I would of went with a keychron or I almost impulse bought a gmmk pro but I can’t help but feel like those are awful value when compared to the offerings of the meletrix with zoom and qwerty keys. Any recommendations on a 75% other than waiting for those 2 brands? >

For in stock Keychron Q1 or Q3 would be the best options. Other boards (as well as the other two you mentioned) are group buy only. Kbdfans used to carry Tiger 80 in aluminum case but idk if they will ever be restocking it. >

Ya I guess it’s a matter of waiting to get in my opinion much more value or it being readily available. Would of already done keychron if I didn’t look around more. Especially hate keychron shipping price… think I’ll try and source a zoom or qk off of mechmarket or just wait for zoom75 >

Yep although for a first board you’ll be more than satisfied with a keychron. Also check your local vendors that way you won’t have to pay that much for shipping. There will also be a Jris75 group buy soon so might be worth checking that one out as well >

Looking for a low profile, 96%-100% layout to replace my Logitech K520 after 8 years of use (Starts to disconnect, numpad is starting to go).
I like the simplistic look of the Keychron K4 & K10 but I'm worried the height will be uncomfy for me as I'm not really interested in a fat keyboard with a palmrest. I would've picked the K5 but I don't like the exposed look of the switches/keys.   
Any recommendations? >

the size is difficult but if you're willing to give up the numbpad you can go for the nuphy air75 >

Thanks, looked at their models and noticed the Air96 is available for Pre-Order. Which is definitely up my alley. >

perfect, glad I could be of assistance >

hi, im having a pretty urgent problem with one of my stabilizers. My right shift. so you know how theres a stabilizer on each side? my left stab fell out and i cant get it back onto the wire and pop it back in. Its a plate mount Gateron. >

A picture would be helpful >

If your keyboard Hotswap (ie can you pull out this switch without having to desolder)? If not you would have to desolder to fix >

is there a way to do it without desoldering? i dont know how to do it nor do i have the tools for it >

Unfortunately not. You’ll need to get the whole stabilizer out on both sides with the wire, assemble it back together, and put back in. Obviously the switch will be in the way if you don’t remove it. >

so im basically done for with the right shift? >

Not if you can desolder/find someone who could do it for you >

Probably not... But hey it sounds like a nice lubed mx Blue Now :D >

Lol get a hotswap board next time tbh. Price diff is minimal nowadays but it can save you lots of headache in a situation like that >

Hi 
I just bought a Gamakay lk67 and the software not recognising it so i cant change RGB
Someone had the same issue nowdays and maybe a working solution?
Thx in advance! >

try connecting it via the cable. most keyboard softwares dont recognize the keeb if its connected wirelessly >

I only tried with cable as ofc >

hey, i have a cheap 100% mechanical keyboard that i got on amazon a while ago, but i dont really use the numpad, except for in blender. i was thinking of using some kind of software that would allow me to map my numpad keys to a few different macros but have them be togge-able. for example when num lock is on its a normal numpad and when num lock is off its a macro pad. does anyone have any solutions? >

if the kb has software that allows this  then im sure u could but there is no 3rd party software for most kbs due to the proprietary code most have on the MCU that only the manufactures has access too >

Oh crap alright. I guess I’ve gotta buy a dedicated macro pad then. God to know. Thanks anyways! >

Hi complete noob here, just built a keyboard with a mj64 pcb, no clue how to turn off rgb, tried using via with no success, not sure if it’s me or the board, pls help >.< >

Topre related.
for anyone who has tried both, what's the difference between original topre purple sliders vs deskeys sliders with #5 silencing rings? >

Looking for tactile switch recommendations. I bought some SP-Star Magic Girl switches and I love the feel of them but I can't get over the spring and leaf ping. Does anyone know of any switches similar to them? >

just lube the springs and leaves >

I bag lubed lubed the springs with krytox 105 and lubed the leaves with krytox 205 and triboysis 3203 on separate switches. There was still ping in both springs and leaves while losing some tactility >

Weird, otherwise just try and donut dipping the springs in krytox. Should reduce ping but no idea about the leaves >

help me build/buy a 70% keyboard
-any switches
-hotswap
-50€/$
thanks >

That price is impossible for a 75 hotswap keyboard with better-than-run-of-the-mill switches >

Alright,thanks >

If you give me a higher budget I can help further >

I have a 60% keyboard that I want to switch to pudding keycaps, but most of the default keys have 2 or 3 labelled functionalities. FN1/FN2 ect. 
Does anyone have a suggested way to lable these keys and make it look somewhat professional? >

Im looking for a full size, as much quiet as possible keyboard for office use (programming).
I saw that the Mx silent red is good for that purpose.
What is the best keyboard (for me) I can get for under 120$?
Thanks! >

take a look at keychron keyboards >

With mx silent red? >

you can get them or other silent switches to add to the board, since the board is hotswap. Meaning it's easy to add/change switches, it's like building lego >

Currently i have Corsair K95 platinum with brown switches.
Everything is decent, except the plastic key caps keep breaking , with normal use.
I have already bought another set of key caps, and they are starting to break.
Can somebody recommend me a new mechanical keyboard
My requirements are
Macro keys or dedicated media keys on the left side
MX brown switches.
Durable keycaps. >

keychron q6/v6
any key can be a macro, has simliar gateron/keychron switches  
left side macros aren't really a big thing outside of gamer brands >

Ty for suggestion but i would like to have dedicated media or macro keys. >

Hi i wanted to try to vuild one of those 40% that have those wpm trackers orthat one bongo cat one but have absolutly no idea where or how to start since i have never done anything like that before.Are there any good yt tutoriels? >

Hey there, newbie here looking to buy my first keeb switching from laptops and Logitech K120
I'm looking for recommendations on some good 75% layout, preferably wireless and with a knob. 
Budget up to ~400$/320€/1500PLN and available in EU 
Uscase is programming by day, gaming by night(Destiny 2, Dota 2, Genshin, single player RPGs) 
I'm not really sure about sound profile and switch type. I think I prefer more thoccy and silent sound, I don't really enjoy higher frequencies in the spectrum. And when it comes to feel maybe a bit of tactile response to make sure whether or not I pressed one or two keys. 
For now I looked up the GMMK Pro because its near perfect but sadly it's not wireless and Akko PC75B Plus seems cheap with its plastic body but the keycaps have great big labels >

If you can wait until Marchish, the Keychron Q1 Pro will be an upgrade of the Q1v2 that is 75%, wireless, aluminium, and knob'd. >

I am looking to upgrade my keyboard from a Logitech G910 to a custom built mechanical keyboard. I want to keep the full size layout, but I am having trouble locating any of the parts that I want. I am looking for a black aluminum frame, Razer Red Optical switches, and customizable keycaps as well as rgb built in or with room to add it. If anyone has suggestions of where to find these items or a prebuilt that matches my needs, I would love to hear from you. >

Is there any way to buy parts separately and install my own razer switches?  Or any equivalent optical switches? >

no they don't sell razer switches on their own, + they are exclusive to razer, and most likely a razer only pcb
and optical switch boards are super budget boards, so nothing higher end >

So would a mx red or speed silver be better?  I'm interested in a quieter keyboard with very fast responsiveness. >

I think either some khail speed silvers or a long pole switch such as huskies are probably what you’re looking for. Long pole meaning you will reach the end of your press faster than most switches. >

Tape modding keycaps(???)
I  saw someone put tape inside their spacebar keycap and I did the same  thing. It turned out pretty good, but I wanted to try and do the same  thing with all the other keycaps. The problem came with the normal  keycaps. Everytime i put paper tape inside, whenever i bottom out, the  key just get stuck to the switch and doesn't go back up. Any idea on  what I should do?
Also the keyboard I use it keychron v3, if that helps. Box switches. >

You can use thin squares of foam and cut an "x" in the center to fit inside the keycap.  I have used the rubber mesh that goes under carpet to make it non slip, for a spacebar.   Have you done any mods to the case?  Doin this to all the keys may make them feel mushy.   Maybe consider different switches or keycaps if you want to change the sound/feel. >

hello i just want to ask if anyone knows about this board: Redragon K645W-GB-RGB CASS 
been seeing it in my local e-commerce shop but it does not have much information and reviews, even in YT.  Is this a new release of redragon? >

Hey i need buying advice from the pros of mechanical keyboards because im new to this.
i would like one without numpad. And the switches shouldnt be to loud so that if I'm on DC my mates dont hear me clicking. Also i would love one where the space between keys is as small as possible so small stuff cant fall easyli into the gaps. My price Limit would be at 350€, but for that price i want something that will last me for a fairly long time.
I would love some Brand or exackt product recomendations. Iam in EU if that matters.
I hope someone can help me and that my expectations are not that far fetched. >

Keybored made a video about making a silent board. Keychron is a good starter board that doesn’t have to be modded. They have a ton of different boards that don’t have number pads >

Yo thanks for the video will check that out >

Hey! I am in search of a dark forest green 65% kit. Anyone know of one currently available? >

The freebird 60 is an olive green and the Bakaneko 65 is a dark forest green. I don’t know if the zoo65 is in stock but those also have green colors. >

Any suggestions for keycaps similar to IFK's Writer's Block, but from a better manufacturer? I'm really liking the off-white w/ grey legends, but the consensus seems to be that IFK is real bad. >

Cherry stone is on sale rn, or you could customize something through 21kb. IFK has had color matching issues in the past, but at least with something in stock that is not an issue. I found IFK to be relatively rough textured (not necessarily a bad thing) and I did not happen to like the way it typed. That said, if you love the look of it, there are worse ways to blow $65 in this hobby lol don't let other people sway your choices too much. >

Ouuu thank you! Those are tempting, but I'm not 100% on the legends. Time for more contemplation lol.   
Could you elaborate on not liking the way it typed? >

I think mostly the texture was not for me, but they also sit a bit taller than my gmk sets. Sound wise, they come off a bit higher pitched than other pbt I have used. Again, you may love IFK, I have found plenty of keyboard stuff to be reversed and enjoyable / awful for me personally despite popular opinions to the contrary. All preference. Hell I may just not have the right build together to be appreciating IFK for what it is, gotta play around and see what your fingers enjoy. >

I feel dumb, but is the th80 pro compatible with any switches and key caps? I think I saw someone say that the keychron isn’t >

Ya I have the board it’s compatible with all the cherry style switches and key caps I have >

Has anyone tried outemu milk tea switches? I can’t find anything about them >

Aside from these, are there any other 65/75 boards that support split space?  I have it on my Charon and love the sound + feel compared to long bars.

Zoom 65/75
Ikki68
The Mark: 65
Charue Charon (daily driver that got me into this mess, rip charue) >

Hello, new to the subreddit and the hobby. I bought a royal kludge 68 key last week and have been having fun with it, just ordered some new key caps. It came with brown switches, which I guess are ~okay~ but definitely leave something to be desired. My question is, how do I figure out what kind of switches I want?
I feel like I want to be halfway between brown and blue, some tactile feedback, and some click, but not an overpowering one (I take notes on zoom calls for work), any suggestions for me? I guess this stock board feels a little thin to me and I’m looking for something with more mass and oomf to it, maybe I need a higher force? Not really sure what I’m doing, help would be appreciated! >

kalih mute jades? they have a rubber piece in the top housing that makes the click a bit quieter
you can add them to a board like any of the keychron q line easily since it's hotswap (like lego)
the q line boards are solid cnc alu cases >

Could use some help finding my ideal keyboard.  Are tenkeyless keyboards all the same size? I purchased a Hyperx Alloy Origins Core and it's 95% perfect for me but compared to my previous keyboard (a Logitech G613) the keys feel a little cramped. It's great for gaming and I especially appreciate having the number keys deleted but when I'm writing I find my hands start to cramp up and I wish the keys were a little more spread out. Is there a tenkeyless mechanical keyboard that's a little roomier than this? Thanks!
​
edit: no budget >

Yes the spacing between keys is the same >

Thank you my heart is broken. >

Is there a ISO barebone for low profile switches, that is comepletly flat like the Cherry MX 10.0N?
I had a Fujitsu KB400, a rubberdome keyboard, which lies comeplety flat on the table. So I bought the Cherry MX 10.0N, but the layout is too narrow and the speed switches are too sensitive for typing. I need an alternative and did not find it. >

Hi everyone! I had purchased a hex 4b and it arrived a month ago. I had built it and it was working perfectly till today when it suddenly stopped working. I unplugged it and plugged it back in and it did absolutely nothing. After a while I got a new cable and plugged it in and after a couple of seconds it was back to working again. Then suddenly it stopped working. I tried new cables and new ports and it would only work for a few seconds and then stop working. Eventually when I plugged it in, it wouldn't even be registered by the computer. Now when I plug it into one usb socket it does nothing, into another it says the usb has malfunctioned and into another it keeps on connecting and disconnecting until it just gives up. On my laptop it still works most of the time, when I plug it in it might take a second or two for it to get started. However I use an usb-a to usb-c adapter on my laptop. If I use this adapter on my PC it still doesn't work and it doesn't work in a friend's computer either, also giving the malfunctioned usb warning. What could be the problem? Do I need to resolder my pcb? Or is it the usb port? I already flashed the latest firmware and my drivers are up to date. >

Anyone have actual dimensions for RK100 (or pro)?  All product descriptions only list packaging dimensions, or at least I find it hard to believe it is 16" wide and 6" deep.  That is larger footprint than my regular full sized keyboards. >

Hi everyone! I need help choosing first keyboard base. I am thinking about NextTime 75 or Feker IK75 (the only budget keyboards I found on AliExpress). What keyboard would you recommend for a beginner? >

Gmk67 or gas67 >

Hi guys! I just received the percent studio trio65 I bought... Love the keeb, but can't find anywhere the .json or how to configure it through QMK  or VIA... Any help would be appreciated. I'm kinda lost, is it not compatible? Do i need to look for another software? >

Are there switches with similar feel and sound characteristics to Boba U4Ts but with regular length stems? >

The boba u4t is very unique in terms of feel and sound but the closest switches I’d say is the doom switch. >

Does anyone know of a GH60 pcb that supports the 64 key layout that is Bluetooth enabled and supports QMK/VIA? The only option I see is the GK64 pcb but I would like to avoid using their terrible software. Preferably hotswap. >

Discipline 65 Help
So I just completed soldering down all of the components for the Discipline 65 keyboard and I can't get windows to recognize it. I get the The last USB device you connected to this computer has malfunctioned and windows doesn't recognize it message and the reset button do not seem to work either. The weird thing is the red power light turns on when plugged in.
I triple checked the amount of solder used on the USB-c connector and it looks perfectly fine as well! (used a flux pen)
Any ideas/help is greatly appreciated! Thanks! >

Hi guys & girls, I'm currently building my first keyboard, a tiger80 lite.
I'm done, but the switch for the Esc key always disconnect, due to the  width of the foam between the PCB and the plate. I guess that after  multiple plug-in/plug-off, the hotswap socket no longer keep the switch  pins within...
Do you have any advice? Cut the foam on this area? Put foam below to  squeeze the PCB up against the plate? >

I would cut the foam in that area and check the switch for bent pins. >


but it has a  function row on the left that I think is kind of weird.

That is actually removable, so if you don't want it, you can snap it off. >

Wow I didn't realize that. Is that easy to do? I've never not purchased an assembled board, so I'm hesitant to buy a kit and do the build myself. >

You literally snap it off of the PCB, it's designed to be. You can see on the PCB that section is attached through a few smaller points. From the quefrency pcb page "One size fits all - Left PCB can have macro section broken off " >

Ok sweet I might give that a shot. Thank you for your help! >

Where can I find a hotswap PCB that will work on a Bakeneko60 and supports split right shift and has a tsangan bottom row? >

I do not think so. If it makes you feel better, I promise that soldering in switches is very easy. >

Kunlun or owlabs spring? Why? >

These two boards are pretty similar but owlabs does way better jobs with their boards so I’d choose that. >

I’m a little overwhelmed with getting my first mechanical keyboard. I need a separate number pad and then a regular keyboard that is fine to use in an office. Does anyone have some recommendations? Thanks! >

I currently have a fairly simple keyboard that has cherry reds but I would like to get one with some nicer switches.  I had my own build that kinda uhh broke and it had gateron yellows which I loved.  So I am looking for a TKL keyboard with gateron yellows or switches that are similiar or maybe that you guys would think I would like.  I would like to try and stay under 100 but wouldn’t mind going up to 150 at max.  I would heavily prefer a keyboard with hotswap.  Do you guys know of anything that could fit the bill for me? >

It has been around a year since I built the mechanical keyboard I am referring to. I recently decided to relube the switches and all went well. (hotswap 60% build). However since I have done this the "D" key has stopped working. I have replaced the switch many times, I have used electrical lube and all sorts of other things online. Is the only solution to by a new PCB? >

Check the hot-swap sockets on the PCB, it's possible that you broke one off and it needs to be resoldered >

I have some weird ticking on the left shift key
This only happens on that key. I've done the holee mod to the stabilizers, bandaid mod, even swapped stabilizers with the Enter key. I don't know what else I could try to fix it. >

Will there be a restock for zoom tkl?
or is it even worth it? >

I'm having a weird keycap interference issue and need some help.
I recently purchased a set of CannonKeys 9009 cherry profile keycaps and put them on my build. As I was finishing up and doing a few test key presses I noticed that row 3 had interference. I know about the cherry keycap interference as it's been talked about a lot, but the thing I don't understand is why/how am I getting interference on a board with a South-facing PCB? I tested the keycaps using both orientations and both ways have the interference click occurring. I tried the caps with other switches and it's the same issue
If anyone has experienced this problem or has any info about it I would love to hear about it.
Thanks >

Just bought a used SteelSeries Apex
7 TKL and some of the keys sometimes don't work. Tried cleaning it. Didn't work. Tried reinstalling drivers. Didn't work. Tried cleaning it again but with more focus on the faulty keys. Didn't work. Any help or am I screwed? >

Sounds like someone sold you a board they knew was faulty >

Is it possible to Mill-Max a Link65 solder PCB? I have Mill-Max 3305 sockets, and they are too large in diameter to fit. >

Hey guys, I'm pretty new to the hobby. I was told that the zoom65 would be restocking soon,  so I began looking online and found no info on it. It got me thinking how do you guys usually find info on what products are dropping and when they are dropping? >

Join discord servers.  Sign up for emails.  Check Geekhack.  Check Mechgroupbuys.  Watch more serious YouTube and twitch channels like ApiaryKeyboads and Alexotos.  There's also MechMerlin's group buy weekly round up.  ^(Other channels are available :))
Sign up for updates on the Zoom65 at the website.  Go to the bottom and sign up to the newsletter. >

Thank you very much! this is super insightful >

Hey guys. Is a Razer BlackWidow Tournament Edition Chroma V2 Yellow switch worth $41? >

You could do worse, but also much better. I suggest saving up some more money and getting a Keychron V3 or a Tiger Lite. >

Thank you for the recommendation. A friend wants to buy it. I think it's worth it for me. >

No shame in that, go for it! Honestly $41 isn't too bad >

I currently have a Varmilo MA series keyboard with their EC V2 Sakura switches. I have tried Akko Lavender Purple switches and liked the feel a lot. I was looking into the Epomaker TH66 with the Budgerlgar switches. I was wondering in anyone has tried the keyboard and if I should try it. >

I’ve heard two reports of epomaker th66s coming with absolutely disastrously soldered pcbs. So bad components are falling off or close to it. Just something to keep in mind. >

Would a 1.5mm MDF plate be sturdy enough for a sandwich mount keyboard? >

I'm  upgrading and modding my keyboard and I would love to replace my MX  Clears with something else after 6 years of use. I narrowed it down to Anubis and Coffee Chip switches, I found alot of  comparisons of both against other switches like U4T and Neapolitan  etc... but never compared with each other.
Anyone has any experience of both the Anubis and Coffee Chip and how they compare? >

I'm thinking of buying a TKL on the market, Mode 80 got me interested. Problem is, I'm an ISO guy, and I love my split right shift. And the image in the Mode 80 configurator for solderable PCB has a weird split right shift format. For those who have a Mode 80 with the solderable PCB, is the image correct? Please and thanks. >

Help getting a budget gaming keyboard
I play some competitive Valorant and Fortnite on my free time. I been looking for a new budget keyboard recently (below 80 USD) however all of the ones I find that look good, and have very good features for their price come with a high response time. My keyboard right now is a Redragon k552 and it has a 26.5ms response time and it is so notable when I play. I would apricate any recommendations. thank you! >

keychron v series is at 1000hz polling rate as well and within your budget:  

like the other Q boards it has a 1000hz polling rate as advertised on its product page. This is a 1ms response time >

I know that PC is polycarbonate and that POM is polyoxymethylene, etc. etc. for the other materials. 
However, I don't know what LY or P3 are. Any pointers? >

I've never heard of either of those, where did you see them mentioned? >

They're stem materials from JWK fyi >

Trying to get into the hobby, seems intimidating. Since I have a few questions I’ll list them below.
Are there any real differences in the case other then the weight and how strong/ fragile it is? Will a metal case make a keyboard louder then a plastic one and vice versa?
I am looking into using hotswappable switches and pcb since I don’t know how to solder. Will this cause any issues?
What is a good hotswappable switch to keep the keyboard from being to loud? I know it’s subjective but please just list some and I’ll look into them.
Are there any brands to avoid?
And finally where would be a good place to buy all of this? Would Amazon work? >

What are the best websites to sell my custom keyboard? >

/r/mechmarket >

enjoypbt 9009
"inspired" by gmk 9009