PowerPC applications no longer supported MacBook Lion I have an interactive DVD that came with one of my college course books.  I need to use this for some homework. When I try to open its says I can't run start projector because PowerPC applications are no longer supported.  I have Lion Version 7.1. What can I do? Can I download anything that will allow this to work?

You will need to use a computer with 10.6 (snow leopard) or earlier if you want to run that software on a Mac. Maybe a friend has an older computer you can borrow. Or maybe it will work on a computer lab machine.

Other Options:

1) Try running it on a Windows PC (I'm guessing backwards compatibility will be better)

2) Virtual Machine. It looks like Snow Leopard on Virtual Box is very difficult (and I'm guessing illegal) but maybe you can get your hands on a copy of Windows that will work.


IOS 6.0.1 UnTethered Jailbreak Is there an UnTethered Jailbreak for IPad 3 with IOS 6.0.1? I've been searching for a while but couldn't find one.

UPD

There are some news on the topic

Currently there is no jailbreak for devices with A5, A5X A6, or A6X chips; Tethered or Untethered. This means we need to be patient for the Chronic Dev Team to complete the jailbreak for the IPhone 4S, 5, IPad 2, 3, 4 and Mini. Do not be fooled by any site that aims to have it available. Most of them charge and may actually be viruses.

Check http://www.redmondpie.com for any updates. They will have realtime updates as to the status of the progress / release.


How is Macbook Air, Macbook Pro's Solid State Drive compared to Intel or Crucial Technology ones? I want to buy a Solid State Drive for my PC, but also is thinking of just buy Macbook Air or Macbook Pro 13 or 15 inch so that there is already a Solid State Drive.

How does the Solid State Drive (SSD) in Macbook Air or Macbook Pro compare to the SSD drive I can buy for the PC?   (for speed)  Especially the Macbook Air, because it is so slim and small, will it have an SSD that is not as fast as the bigger brothers?

For example, these two seems highly rated for the PC:

http://www.amazon.com/Crucial-Technology-RealSSD-Solid-CTFDDAC128MAG-1G1/dp/B0039SM0AS

and

http://www.amazon.com/Intel-Internal-Technology-2-5-Inch-SSDSA2MH120G2K5/dp/B00486UR2I

and even an external one... but maybe less useful if computer has no USB 3.0

http://www.amazon.com/Iomega-SuperSpeed-USB2-0-External-35141/dp/B0047ZGNIC

The AnandTech Review of the fall 2010 MacBook Air models has some graphs comparing the performance of the built-in SSD to some other SSD drives, including some Intel models. Their conclusion is that the built-in SSD is quite good, though not the best available on the market.

Keep in mind that the storage drive speed is only one factor determining the computer's overall speed. The MacBook Pro models are available with SSD drives as well and will give you better overall speed than a MacBook Air. The AnandTech review of the early 2011 MacBook Pro models includes details about their SSD options, but no direct comparison between the SSDs provided by Apple and market models. They do state "Apple offers an array of BTO (Build to Order) SSD options, however the drives are likely of average performance."


Time Machine not automatically deleting old backups My MacBook is currently using around 180GB of its internal drive. However, when I plug in my 250GB external drive to make backups of my Mac, I incessantly get the error "your backup drive does not have enough storage to perform the backup."
My backup drive still has 15GB free. From my understanding, older backups should be deleted to make space for newer ones. Is there any reason why Time Machine does not automatically delete the older backups to make space for the newer one?

If you wish to delete your biggest backups (because Time Machine won't do it automatically), you can download TimeTracker, which will calculate the size of each backup, as well as show you which files are taking up space. From there, you can:

decide to delete all backups of a file (by using the Time Machine UI and selecting "delete all backups of 'file'")
Add the large file(s) to System Preferences > Time Machine > Options > Ignored files
Delete an entire single backup by opening Terminal, typing sudo tmutil delete  and dragging, from finder, the backup you wish to delete. It should say something like this in the end: sudo tmutil delete /Volumes/Backup\ Drive/Backups.backupdb/My\ Mac/2020-08-27-150021


Keeping Finder in sync with changes made in Terminal? Until Yosemite, I could work in the Terminal and file system changes would be immediately updated in Finder. Now, however, Finder seems to be out of sync with the filesystem. Finder shows files I have moved or deleted as still being in the original folder.

I am at a loss to restore Finder's old behaviour. Things I have tried, to no avail:

rm .DS_Store; open .
Seeing that my whole Documents folder had become infected with the com.apple.quarantine attribute, removing it with xattr -drv com.apple.quarantine .
Checking the filesystem with Disk Utility; no errors reported.

It's not the problem described in Moving folder to Trash in Finder is not synchronized with Terminal, as any files I delete, I delete with rm.

Update: what does work is Force Quit... → Restart Finder, which is a bit drastic.

Not necessarily a fix, but I use this to refresh Finder windows - works after changing file visibility too, rather than killing the Finder.

tell application "Finder"
    set theWindows to every window
    repeat with i from 1 to number of items in theWindows
        set this_item to item i of theWindows
        set theView to current view of this_item
        if theView is list view then
            set current view of this_item to icon view
        else
            set current view of this_item to list view
        end if
        set current view of this_item to theView
    end repeat
end tell


iPad can't be backed to iTunes 11 in Mountain Lion Since updating to iOS 6.1.3 I am no longer able to copy files onto iPad and can't back up to my main Mac Pro with Mountain Lion and iTunes 11.0.2. I
first thought it was the iPad, but now it's connected to my old Macbook Pro with 10.6.8 and it is backing up just fine.

Also when I try to put files onto it using the Goodreader app it creates a miniFile with the name but then stops and freezes iTunes. Also no luck with using the seperate app GoodreaderUSB.

Any ideas where to start with the troubleshooting?

Try re-installing iTunes.  Sometimes the problem could stem from there. It's quick just head to the Apple website and download a copy and it will install on top of what you have.

Silly but also try another USB port just to be safe.


Most efficient way of migrating selected elements of user account and selected applications to a new mac I will have to transfer my user account and some other stuff to a new mac and I am currently considering what would be the most efficient way of doing that. The list of things I would like and wouldn't like to transfer is below:

To transfer

Current user documents
Emails
Photos / Music
Address book, preferences settings

From applications:

Precisely defined list of applications
plus corresponding application preference folders

Not to transfer

The whole content of the user folder as I have things that I do not need there. Like bin folder with some old stuff, Virtual Boxes, etc.

What's the best strategy to approach this problem?

Clean current account leaving only stuff to transfer? I'm thinking that no matter what I do they will be orphans from software left. Also in the course of years, I made mess using homebrew and macports in the same time, instaling various python frameworks, etc.
Install new clean account and copy selected things by hand. If this is better, how to efficiently copy selected application with corresponding preference folders?

Use Apple's Migration Assistant to copy all of your documents, apps, user accounts, and settings to a new Mac from another computer.

https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT204350


Is there a way to make the iTunes Store faster in Windows? I realize that iTunes is a little slow on windows in general.  But dealing with my stuff locally is workable.  But whenever I use iTunes to go the iTunes Store, that tab takes a long time to do anything.  The home page takes a couple of minutes.  I have a fast internet connection using IE or Firefox.  (Comcast 12MB service)

Any thoughts on how to make the iTunes store go faster?

No. The only way to speed up iTunes is to get a faster PC or Mac. It's a bloated program with a lot of legacy code in it. It's been needing a complete overhaul for years now (even on the Mac). And as time passes, it just seems to get bigger as more is continually added.

With that said, the speed of iTunes is dependent on your Internet connection but it's also dependent on the power of your PC. Having broadband allows data to transfer quickly from Apple's servers but crunching all that data requires CPU cycles and a lot of RAM too.


Get Messages from iPhone onto new MacBook Pro I recently purchased a new 15" 2016 rMBP with TouchBar. It replaces my 15" 2015 rMBP. That system (the 2015 model) was the tail end of a chain of systems (some iMacs, some rMBPs) on which I had always done Migration Assistant to set up the new system. That system was also beginning to experience a lot of strange slow downs, beach balls, loud fan noise, etc. I suspect it's not the system hardware itself, but just years of junk piling up.

So, I'm starting fresh with my new system. I have everything set up pretty well and the new system is screaming fast. No beach balls or loud fan here yet!

Everything in iCloud Drive, Google Drive, and Dropbox has downloaded without a hitch, and I'm getting all of my programs re-installed. So far so good.

The only deficiency I have come across is with respect to the Messages app on macOS. I sign in just fine, and sending/receiving new messages works perfectly, but it has none of my message history. I can kind of understand why this would be true for SMS (non-Apple messages), but I would expect iMessage entries to be backed up through iCloud and auto-restored. But nothing is showing up.

I have seen several products online that tout the ability to export messages from an iPhone, which would work fine, since my iPhone 7 Plus has essentially all of the message history I care about. What is not clear, however, is exactly how this export process works. From what I can tell, most of these products do get the data off of the iPhone, but I want to then load/import the data into Messages for macOS, and it appears that most of these solutions just save the text message data into some kind of file (*.txt, *.pdf, etc.). I don't want to pay money for that kind of a solution.

Does anybody have experience with what I'm trying to do? I still have my old rMBP, so if there's any way to selectively back up just its Messages, and restore them to the new rMBP, that would work, too.

Any ideas?

Per @Tetsujin's comment, I started down the path of what was linked. It didn't work, though. After transferring in the folders/files, Messages looked the same as before.
It got me looking for a similar answer, however, and I was able to come across this article on iMore.
The basic gist of the article is to copy the contents of ~/Library/Messages from the Old Mac into the same directory on the New Mac.
[Insert standard "back up your stuff before doing this!" comment.]
Then, I did a reboot (which I hadn't done with the prior attempt; maybe that was the difference).
Note:
The iMore article seems to indicate that the "Archive" folder is only for conversations that have been closed, and only if you have the "Save history when conversations are closed" option checked. I did not have this option checked, and I rarely close conversations, and all of my conversations were there.
Note 2:
The folders from the original answer in Tetsujin's comment were aliases, and I don't know if they are pointing to the folders in ~/Library/Messages, but – for whatever reason – iMore's solution worked! (Perhaps it was the recommended reboot found in iMore's article.)


Require admin password when changing Mac Wi-Fi How can I go about requiring an admin password when changing Wi-Fi networks on Mac? The auto-connect/preferred list sometimes connects to a lower priority network without my knowledge.

Go to System Preferences → Network preference pane.
Unlock the pane using the lock button in the bottom-left and authenticating.
Choose Wi-Fi in the services list, or whatever you called your Wi-Fi service.
Click Advanced….
Enable ‘Require administrator authorisation to: Change networks’.
OK and Apply.


Apple 1 year warranty - What type of issues are covered for Macbook Pro UK? I am wondering which types of human error or accidental breakage the Apple Manufacturer one year warranty covers.

I have a Macbook Pro which is in full working order, The problem is the reciept for this is in somebody else's name.

I have been told by the store manager in one Apple Store that in order for me to get a new receipt, the only way he could think of is if my Macbook Pro had a "fault" which resulted in me being issued with a new Macbook Pro (and a new receipt).

What the manager was saying is if I could create the conditions for a problem to occur on the Macbook Pro, he could then issue me a new one with a new receipt.

I told him it sounds idiotic for me to do such a thing to a brand new machine, but at the same time it's the only option I have in this politically correct world.

I need the receipt in my name for third party insurance reasons - I cannot insure the Macbook pro with a receipt in somebody else's name.

First of all, I'm glad you asked about it before hitting your MacBook with a sledgehammer. The 1-year limited warranty only covers damage that was caused by a manufacturer defect. Water and/or physical damage is not covered. No exceptions. The only damage that is covered is if the battery drains super quick or whenever you use it it gets way too hot. Or the software does not work properly and you have tried all remedies possible.

Secondly, the only way to get a new receipt is to purchase a new computer. That's really the only way. I broke my iPhone twice, and no new receipt was ever given.

The only way that is possible is to sell your computer and then buy a new/used MacBook.


I can't get the zsh-theme to update all the inner shell scripting with each "return" on the terminal Here is my new oh-my-zsh zsh-theme, updated with an escape character before each code block within $()'s which allows it to update every time the prompt is displayed (works with setopt prompt_subst:
PROMPT="%F{yellow}%n%F{white}@%F{green}%M %F{cyan}%j %F{white}\$(curl -s https://api.myip.com | jq .ip -r) %F{green}%2c%F{cyan} [%f "
RPROMPT="\$(git_prompt_info) %F{cyan}] %F{red}\$(top -l 1 | grep 'Load Avg' | awk '{print $3, $4, $5}' | tr -d , | awk '{print $2}')[\$(sysctl hw.ncpu | grep -o -E '[1-9]+')] @ \$(top -l 1 | grep 'CPU usage:' | awk '{print $3, $5, $7}' | tr -d , | awk '{print $3,"%%"}') idle %F{green}%W %* %F{yellow}%D{%p}%f"

ZSH_THEME_GIT_PROMPT_PREFIX="%F{yellow}"
ZSH_THEME_GIT_PROMPT_SUFFIX="%f"
ZSH_THEME_GIT_PROMPT_DIRTY=" %F{red}*%f"
ZSH_THEME_GIT_PROMPT_CLEAN=""

It will dynamically change the date and time, the IP address, and the git_prompt_info, every time I press return, but the shell scripting like \$(top -l 1 | grep 'Load Avg' | awk '{print $3, $4, $5}' | tr -d , | awk '{print $2}') does not update every time I press "return", it gives me an error instead:
awk: syntax error at source line 1
 context is
    {print >>>  , <<<
awk: illegal statement at source line 1
awk: illegal statement at source line 1

What's going on here?

setopt prompt_subst

Enable prompt_subst in your zshrc or other file sourced by your shell to make zsh re-evaluate your PS1 variable on each prompt appearance.


Force FileVault to use 256-bit key encryption Is there a way to use 256-bit key encryption for macOS system?

I’ve tried formatting system partition myself with bigger key size APFS, but macOS installer actually reverted this as it asks for user password now on login screen, not “disk password” on boot.

Most documentation I'm finding seems to indicate that the key's used in macOS 10.9 and higher use a 256 bit key by default.

  Encryption and authentication support

  FileVault 2 uses the Advanced
  Encryption Standard (AES) encryption algorithm, which delivers robust
  protection for stored data. Until mid-2013, it only supported the use
  of 128-bit keys, not 256-bit keys. Although 128-bit keys are
  technically acceptable in many environments, organizations are rapidly
  moving toward 256-bit keys to thwart emerging threats.

  The latest versions of Mac OS X, starting with 10.9, support 256-bit
  AES keys, so organizations wishing to enable FileVault 2 on legacy
  systems should be cautious about the 128-bit key strength present in
  older Mac OS X versions, Lion (10.7) and Mountain Lion (10.8).

Reference: Apple FileVault 2: Full disk encryption software overview

This PDF and the Wikipedia page seem to indicate this as well.

macOS Security - Overview for IT 2018
Wikipedia - FileVault


Remove menu bar and dock from external monitor? I have a MacBook Air (10.13.2). I'd like to play videos full screen on an external monitor, while still being able to continue working on my MacBook.
I can't get it the way I'd like.

Whenever I click back on my MacBook, the dock and menu bar appears over the full screen video on the external monitor.

I've Googled and the only way I found to get rid of them is to uncheck the "Displays have separate Spaces" in System Preferences >> Mission Control.

However, that brings the unfortunate effect that when I switch to a different desktop than the one where I started the video, I lose the video on the external monitor as it too switches to a different desktop.

Anyone know how I can get rid of the menu bar/dock on the external monitor and still keep it as a separate space?

Try setting your dock to autohide while leaving the displays with separate spaces. Also make your video playing app fullscreen before using the fullscreen feature built into the app.

This answer says that the menu bar cannot be hidden, but it shouldn't be showing up in full screen unless you place your mouse over the top of the second monitor.


Limiting a standard user to use 50 GB of the hard drive I have added a standard user for my brother on my Mac Mini, and I would like to limit the amount of space he can use on my hard drive, but I can't see where I can set this kind of restrictions.

I have read online that you can set it from accounts; however, I can't see any option there. The only options I can see are checkboxes to allow the user to administer the computer, and to enable parental controls.

Does anyone know where I can set this?

This should work for you:

Create a root shell session in Terminal with sudo -s, providing your admin password when asked.
Create an empty quota options file with touch /.quota.ops.user
Run quotacheck -a to generate a list of drive space used by user
Run repquota -a to list the drive space used by each user
Enable quotas by typing quotaon / (You can turn them off again with quotaoff / )
Set quota limits for a given use by typing edquota -u username
This will put you in a vi editing session, where you can set both hard and soft limits on drive space and inodes (files).
Note: vi is a text editor and can be a bit of a handful to use if you're not used to it, try searching for a basic tutorial on the net if you've never used it before.

You'll get a file that looks like this:

Quotas for user fakeuser:
/: 1K blocks in use: 14968, limits (soft = 0, hard = 0)
        inodes in use: 224, limits (soft = 0, hard = 0)

The soft limit can be exceeded for one file, allowing users to save a file which puts them over their limit but not allow them to save any more until they get back under their limit.  Hard limits cannot be exceeded though.


MBP TB 2016 Failed to format and crashes. APFS Container damaged? Hy everyone!

I need help restoring my MBP.

2016 MBP15TB

I made a USB stick with Mojave, restarted with Command+R, went into disk util, and wanted to erase my SSD to start the install. The computer was working fine earlier today, but had a lot of crap on it and I wanted to start fresh. Had about 260GB free space.

Unfortunately this did not work, and the erase process crashed.

Looked online and found a topic here and found out that you can delete the apfs container manually in terminal with diskutil.

Found a YT video explaining it and it worked until the process actually started.

When in gets to 50%, it crashes again and restarts.

Format does not happen. I can try erase from the disk utility and it does the same. No % shown but after unmounting everything it hang for a few secs and crashes again.

Cannot load back to the original OS either.

Also diskutil list shows 22 disks for some reason that i do not understand.

Here is a video on what's happening:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xg25MFLcQc4&feature=youtu.be

Anyone have any idea what to do? How to clean the SSD for a full clean install?
Thank you.

This is the official answer from me on what fixed the issue.
If you run into this same situation(rare case really) this is how it was fixed.
The background: MBP 2016 with TB, updated normally, converted to APFS and had at one point windows running on it with bootcamp.

I decided to format the drive and reinstall clean because i had a lot of clutter on it and moved everything to cloud, so i can have more space.

Followed the apple guideline and made a bootable installer USB.
Followed the erase process, and in the middle of that my MBP crashed with a kernel panic.
Kernel panic happened with disk utility and terminal. Tried multiple methods.
My APFS container was damaged and disk utility was unable to resolve it.
The OS was gone, it was not booting. The only sign on the screen was a circle with a diagonal line in it. Recovery still worked.

Took it to apple store and started working on it with genius bar guys.
After 3 hours most of them gave up and said needs an ssd repair because this is a hardware issue($800). I was thinking differently, because it was fine a few hours earlier. Then another genius came up with an idea that became the solution.

We connected another macbook pro with a thunderbolt cable to mine, and turned mine on while holding T.

This way we tried to format the drive using the new macbook pro's disk utility.
Surprisingly worked, and was able to format the drive in HFS in 15 seconds.

Install still crashed but we were able to use my disk utility and reformat to APFS, and run the installer again. Crashed again.

3rd time we did PRAM and NVRAM reset, run the installer again and no crash, Restarted, with apple logo and a timer.
Finished with a working OS and booted to the welcome screen.

Currently its still running, and the partition table cleaned up.
If you watched my video, the ghost drives from diskutil list disappeared.
The only thing showing now is the current new APFS container, with correct names and sizes.

Drive speed test shows good speeds, no crashes so far. Installed some apps and updates.

I will update this thread if another issue comes up but hopefully it will stay stable for a long time!
Cheers!
David


Is there a way to read/respond to iPhone text messages on a Windows computer? I would like to be able to read/respond to my text messages on a computer.  I only seem to find a place to do this if you have a Mac.  Can this be done on a Windows computer or Chromebooks running Chrome OS?

No, you can only use iMessages on iOS and Mac OS devices.


Mac Pro 2020 upgradability - DDR5, ARM, Neural Engine? Can the Mac Pro 2020 in the future be upgraded to replace/add these:

DDR4 -> DDR5
Intel -> Arm
... -> Apple Neural Engine

Or are they not compatible with the current Mac Pro design?

They are all technologies that could potentially be available for Mac products within a year or two.

The short answer is no, the Mac Pro isn’t upgradeable to any if those technologies.

DDR5 RAM, is a low power, but double bandwidth compared to DDR4.  Its a standard that hasn’t been released yet, and must be supported by the CPU.  in order to support this, you would need to redesign the logic board to accept the new requirements and since it’s a non-finalized standard, nobody has adopted the tech yet.
ARM vs Intel.  This is two completely different CPU architectures.  To use an automotive analogy, this is like asking if your car with a big block V8 can use an electric motor from a Tesla.  Unless you remove all the drive train and what supports it so you can put in this new tech, it’s not upgradeable.  The same holds true for Intel to ARM; you’d have to replace the logic board (at minimum) to support it and that’s not “an upgrade”
Apple Neural Engine is a technology that comes on their ARM SoC (System on Chip), it’s not application software that you can just install and suddenly have.  This is their CPU, and to support it, you’d need a whole new architecture.  See the previous point.

However, I think you said it best in your question:

  They are all technologies that could potentially be available for Mac products within a year or two.

They are potentially available which means the standards by which they inter-operate with other technologies haven’t been finalized and thusly, not implemented.


How to listen to my iPod on an other computer? I have an iPod and it is synchronised on a computer A.

I would like to listen to my music on another computer B, on which iTunes 11 is installed.

When I connect the iPod on the computer B, I am able to see all the screens related to the settings, such as  or
but I don't know how to actually access the content of the iPod to play the music.

Is it possible ?

And, if yes, what should I do  ?

EDIT : When I click on "Sur cet iPod" ("On this iPod"), I am able to see the content of the iPod but it seems that I canno't play it... Any advice ? Here is the screen :

When your iPod is plugged in, just go to Sur cet iPod (On this iPod) and you can actually play the music from your iPod.


How to remove GrowlMail (on Mavericks)? I've installed Mavericks and started to us the Mail app from Apple again, but every time I start Mail I get the message:

  Incompatible Plug-ins Disabled

  Mail has disabled the following plug-ins:

    Growlmail

I've tried disabling and removing it in the System Preferences under Growl but the message above keeps popping up when I start Mail.

How can I remove it?

Close Mail.app

Open a Terminal and enter chflags nohidden ~/Library.

Now you can navigate with your Finder to the following directories and delete the plugin GrowlMail.mailbundle:

~/Library/Mail/Bundles/GrowlMail.mailbundle
/Library/Mail/Bundles/GrowlMail.mailbundle

When starting Mail.app now, you shouldn't get any error messages related to GrowlMail.


How do I clean ununsed tags from Finder? I seem to have accumulated a number of tags, some of which are duplicate and which do not belong to any files. I can see these tags when I open All Tags. These I assume were set for some files, which were then deleted.

How do I clean up the Finder so that only the current tags are present?

Open Finder preferences either by going to Finder → Preferences in Menu bar or by pressing Command + , keyboard shortcut with with Finder.app open.

Go to Tags tab, select the unwanted tags and hit - button.


How should I cool my Mac? I was wondering if I should by a CoolerMaster X3 cooling pad for my mac. I got a Late 2011 mac which reaches temp 80 degrees C even at 720p video buffering in browser and goes bonkers if I switch it up to 1080p or above or any quality at 60FPS.

It also gets hot while running simple programming softwares. Should I buy the cooling pad? Is it worth it?

I'm not looking forward to performance boost, I have to use this mac for a few more years. I just don't want it to get damaged due to heat effects in that time!

You actually don't need a cooling pad. You can manually change the fan speed on Mac with this utility called smcFanControl. You can get it here. You may also want to try to reset SMC to make sure that your fan is working properly.


Chrome tabs being cut off in small viewing area after wake from sleep I've had a recurring issue since last week where I wake from sleep on a new external monitor, and several of my already-open Chrome tabs have their content resized (i.e. into a 600x600 viewing area).

This doesn't affect all tabs, but the websites that are affect are not consistent. For instance, Gmail wasn't affected today, yet it was last week when this happened.

Current version of Chrome: 38.0.2125.111; OS X version: 10.9.5. In Mission Control, "Displays have separate Spaces" is enabled.

Things I've tried to correct the problem:

dragging window to different display/monitor -- this fixes the issue if the problematic tab is in focus. As soon as Chrome window is on the other display, it apparently triggers a re-rendering of the page.
resizing Chrome window -- this just causes the viewing area to scale with my resizing
hard refresh (Cmd+Shift+R) -- viewing area stays the same
opening website in new tab -- new tab viewing area is fine, but old tab remains the same

Example #1:

Example #2:

You can join this discussion group on Chromium to be notified when Chromium people have done something about it.

Meanwhile check your Chrome GPU settings with chrome://gpu/ in the Chrome web address window.


characters stick at the beginning of CLI When I press arrow up to search through the command history, some characters always remain at the beginning of the command line. Does anyone know what's going on ? How can I fix it?

for example, I ping google.com, it looks like this:

then I press up arrow a few times and down arrow a few times, some characters stick at the beginning of the command line like this:

those characters can't be removed or highlight, and I can still use the CLI normally, like this:
and move between directory despite the leading characters:

Your Bash prompt is not properly escaped for non-printing characters, so it thinks the prompt is longer than it truly is (and doesn't delete some of the characters). To fix it, add \[ and \] around the invisible parts.

You need to change it to:

export PS1='\[\e[31m\]\W\[\e[0m\] '


Forcing `open` command to open unsigned app? I've got my Security preferences set to allow apps downloaded from "Mac App Store and identified developers."  When I try to open an unsigned app:

open xyz.app

I see the following:

Usually, I right-click on the app and click "Open".  This brings up a similar dialogue, but this one includes an "open anyway"-type button:

Is there a way to do this only using the open command -- something like:

open --even-if-unsigned xyz.app

Create and add a Gatekeeper label to the app. (‘Approved’ is an arbitrary string.)

spctl --add --label "Approved" /path/to/xyz.app

Approve all apps with the label.

spctl --enable --label "Approved"

This only needs to be done once and adding the same named label to apps in the future automatically enables their access.
Open the app as usual.

open xyz.app

For more information about spctl (SecAssessment system policy security), see the man page.


Would an SSD make developing in Eclipse (much) faster? I'm developing a lot of Java software with Eclipse. My MacBook running Snow Leopard 10.6.8 with 4GB RAM and Core 2 Duo is very slow.

Would it help to use an SSD and upgrade RAM to 6 or 8 GB? I've read that SSD will make my MacBook much faster, but will it have an effect on Java development?

TL;DR: Yes on both accounts.

Start with RAM. Max it out at 8 GBs. My compile times dropped in half going from 4 GB to 8 GB -- swapping is a performance killer and the primary cause of the beach ball on OS X. More memory, less swapping. Happier development.

Then go SDD. In my case I went to an SDD in my DVD drive slot. I never used the thing so didn't think it was worth keeping around. Compile times for larger Java projects on the SDD vs the HD are consistently 3x faster on the SDD.

There's a caveat to all of this: SDDs are unreliable. When they fail, they fail hard. That's why I opted to keep my Main drive on a spinning platter drive. Also remember: Time Machine doesn't back up anything by your Main drive. So that means nothing on my SDD is backed up by Time Machine. Why am I okay with this? Two words: revision control. I only do things on my SDD that are backed by revision control. In my case git. And I push my changes upstream fairly frequently. If the drive fails, I'd lose an hour or two of work and that's not so bad. Everything else is safe on my remote repository in the cloud.


Help Installing Wine Mono I installed Wine Mono from its Git page (by git clone), their README file says

To build Wine Mono, use the msi or bin target.
$ make msi

So I go to the directory (cd) then do make msi it outputs:
GNUmakefile:54: *** 'wine' command not found. Please install wine or specify its location in the WINE variable.  Stop.

so I follow the other option make bin
GNUmakefile:54: *** 'wine' command not found. Please install wine or specify its location in the WINE variable.  Stop.

so I try make /bin, and the sane happens.
Am I doing something wrong, also I may not have one of the dependencies, I do not know what are

libgdiplus, to support Mono's resource compiler.
The dos2unix command.

And I use a macOS 10.15.7 so I may not have (I don't know what is autotools, and I can install CMake again if required)

All of the dependencies of Mono for your native (presumably Linux)
system, such as autotools, CMake and a C++ compiler.

EDIT: It also throws errors about libgnutls, like this:
0009:err:winediag:gnutls_initialize failed to load libgnutls, no support for encryption

It has a pretty explicit README...

Wine Mono is a package containing Mono and other projects, intended as
a replacement for the .NET Framework (4.x and earlier) in Wine. It
works in conjunction with Wine's builtin mscoree.dll, and it is not
intended to be useful for any other purpose.

And a pretty explicit list of dependencies including...

Wine, for the winemsibuilder and cabarc commands. A 32-bit Wine is
not necessary, despite the warnings when running 64-bit Wine.

If you are expecting this to be Wine itself, you are mistaken.


Issue when trying to convert the month number to word form in AppleScript (but only when that month contains 31 days) I have a piece of AppleScript code that converts a numerical date to that date in words.

The code accepts a variable that contains a date in the following format:

  2017_04_01

The code converts this numerical date to the following word-based format:

  Saturday, April 1, 2017

My code has been modified from the answer provided to this question, by user markhunte:

Applescript date manipulation to get multiple formats

My code works perfectly when it is given today's date of 2017_04_01. But, for some reason, it does not work when it is given the date of day 31 of any given month.

For example, my code will not work if theNumericalDate is 2017_03_31.

Here is my AppleScript code:

set theNumericalDate to "2017_04_01"

-- Remove the underscores:
set temp to AppleScript's text item delimiters
set AppleScript's text item delimiters to {"_"}
set listOfTheNumbersOfDate to text items of theNumericalDate
set AppleScript's text item delimiters to temp

-- Separate each individual element:
set onlyTheYear to (item 1 of (listOfTheNumbersOfDate))
set onlyTheMonth to (item 2 of (listOfTheNumbersOfDate))
set onlyTheDay to (item 3 of (listOfTheNumbersOfDate))

-- I don't want to display "March 03" as the date. I would prefer: "March 3". So, remove the first character from the day if it is a zero:
if (character 1 of onlyTheDay is "0") then
    set onlyTheDay to text 2 thru -1 of onlyTheDay
end if

set stringForShellScript to " date -v" & onlyTheDay & "d -v" & onlyTheMonth & "m -v" & onlyTheYear & "y +%"

set theMonthAsWord to (do shell script (stringForShellScript & "B"))

set theDayAsWord to (do shell script (stringForShellScript & "A"))

set theDisplayDateString to (theDayAsWord & ", " & theMonthAsWord & " " & onlyTheDay & ", " & onlyTheYear)

Based on some debugging that I have done, I think that the source of the issue lies in this line:

set theMonthAsWord to (do shell script (stringForShellScript & "B"))

Can you identify and solve the issue?

I realize that I can easily accomplish the desired effect of determining the month name by implementing an if statement such as:

if onlyTheMonth is "01" then
    set theMonthAsWord to "January"
else if onlyTheMonth is "02" then
    set theMonthAsWord to "February"
else if onlyTheMonth is "03" then
    set theMonthAsWord to "March"
...

I shied away from this method because it's lengthy and unsophisticated.

Also, I'd still have to figure out the day of the week somehow, which is more complicated and cannot be accomplished by a simple if statement. Thus, the line:

set theDayAsWord to (do shell script (stringForShellScript & "A"))

would still terminate my code when theNumericalDate ends in _31.

Solution
Use the following stringForShellScript:
"date -v" & onlyTheMonth & "m -v" & onlyTheDay & "d -v" & onlyTheYear & "y +%"

Explanation
Interestingly enough, you need to shift the month before the day, but only if you’re going to shift the day to the 31st of the month.

-v30d -v2m will produce February just fine, but the 31st of the month causes date to bug out (up to the version that ships with macOS Sierra 10.12.4).

You can shift the year at any point in the command without any issue.

Side Notes

set onlyTheDay to (onlyTheDay as integer) as string will remove any leading 0s from a number string. It’s less error-prone than parsing a string. Performance is inconsequential in this case.
You have a leading space before date. Not that it matters—just pointing it out.


Where do I find the logs for OS X authentication attempts? I'm on a personal computer, with Lion running and only a single user account on the computer. Is there a log file for authentication attempts (both for login attempts and password protected screensaver aka sleep mode)?

Mostly interested in the unsuccessful attempts. Is it possible to also see the passwords that were used to make those unsuccessful attempts?

It's found in the secure.log (the path is /var/log/secure.log) and the entries would look something like this:

authorizationhost[5917]: Failed to authenticate user <cksum> (error: 9).

It does not log password attempts (the password they tried to use), just the actual unsuccessful (or successful) login attempt.

Additionally, to focus your search exclusively for failed login attemps, open Terminal.app (found in Utilities folder) and run the following command:

sudo grep 'Failed to authenticate' /var/log/secure.log


Whenever an app tries to authenticate with Facebook, the dialog is in a foreign language As you can see whenever an iOS app tries to authenticate me with Facebook the dialog is in Indonesian (I think). I've never set anything to that language, and in iOS and on Facebook my language is set to English.

I figure Masuk is something like "allow" but I don't know what kind of permissions I'm granting the app, so I would like to get these dialogs in English.

This is a bug by Facebook - you can track the status of it here: http://developers.facebook.com/bugs/407246299295529?browse=search_4fa410ea79db26337556383


iCloud log in requires old phone number i neither have nor remember I recently got rid of my iPhone & tried to log in via icloud on my laptop so I could get some contacts.

I know my Apple ID  & my password well. However, on entering my credentials,  iCloud requires that I either enter my old number which I dont recall nor still posses.

Is there a work around for this? or am I doomed?

You have to start an account recovery here : https://iforgot.apple.com/password/verify/appleid

However, they may also ask you to verify your phone number and in this case, only Apple support can help you. They'll ask you question about your devices, your credit card and will ask you your new phone number.


Import Google Voice Contacts Into iPhone What I'd like to do is have my Google Voice contacts available on my iPhone, not the other way around.  I recently had to restore the phone to factory defaults and it's a pain to manually enter all them all.

When I make a new GMail e-mail account on my iPhone it won't let me import contacts from my Google account, but even if it did I don't want every single contact in my phone.  Google for some reason adds every single person I've ever sent e-mails to into my contacts list, which as you can imagine is quite a large list by now.

Does anyone have any suggestions for how to do this?

Go to the Contacts tab of the GV sidebar.
Click the Export link at the top right.
Select which you want to export.
Use the Outlook CSV format if you've got a PC and the vCard format if you've got a Mac.
Import it to Outlook or Address book (depending on your system) and set iTunes to sync contacts to the iPhone from that program.


OS X 10.6.8 App Store "Get" Button Does Nothing I am trying update to El Capitan using the App Store. I am logged in and my Mac meets the requirements, but when I click "Get" nothing happens. Just goes dark blue and nothing else after that.

What can I do? I've tried with other user accounts, tried re-installing OS X from the disk, but I still have the issue.

@rogerdpack answered this in a comment at Mac OS X 10.6.8 App Store not working:

To get around this problem, manually go to "software update", install all available updates, reboot, and then the app store GET button should work again.

If this still fails, try to reboot again, and/or to log in to the App Store before clicking the GET button.


why does OSX add extra '._' when I tar a directory? I'd just like to know why if I "tar -czf" a file/directory, osx adds a:  ._  for each file? I see these when I untar in linux. Or when I work with the uncompressed project in eclipse as it doesn't like them at all.
I use 10.7.5.

OS X's tar uses the AppleDouble format to store extended attributes and ACLs. tar and Archive Utility also know how to convert the ._ files back to the native formats, but the ._ files are kept if the archive is extracted on another platform or on a non-HFS volume.

You can usually just tell tar to remove the metadata by setting COPYFILE_DISABLE to some value:

$ xattr -l file.jpg
com.apple.quarantine: 0002;50d20c48;Tweetbot;
$ tar -cf 1.tar file.jpg
$ tar -tf 1.tar
./._file.jpg
file.jpg
$ COPYFILE_DISABLE=1 tar -cf 2.tar file.jpg
$ tar -tf 2.tar
file.jpg

Information stored as extended attributes:

Resource forks (since 10.4)

Custom icons set in Finder and the images of Icon\r files
Metadata in PSD files
Script objects stored in scpt files, AppleScript Editor window state

Information about aliases
Quarantine status, download URLs
Spotlight comments
Encoding of files saved with TextEdit
Caret position of files saved with TextMate
Skim notes

You can see ACLs with ls -le:

$ ls -led /Applications/
drwxrwxr-x@ 146 root  admin  4964 Jun 17 22:53 /Applications/
 0: group:everyone deny delete


How can I tell if my Mac CPU supports AVX? Background info for my particular case (though it would be good if answers were more general):

I have an 11 inch MacBook Pro. I'm trying to run MuJoCo but it says Illegal instruction: 4. Searching Google for similar errors lead me to something saying that I need a CPU that has AVX instruction support.

When I looked up how to tell if my CPU has AVX support, I came across this page which gives a list of CPUs with AVX support.

When I looked up how to tell what CPU my Mac had, Google said to use "About This Mac" which just told me I have a 2.53 GHz Intel Core i5, but that doesn't seem to be anywhere on the list, but the site says that these types of CPUs tend to support AVX instructions.

How can I tell whether or not my computer actually does support AVX instructions?

Execute this command in Terminal:

sysctl -a | grep machdep.cpu.features

You'll get a report out like this:

  Redacted-Family-iMac:~ redacted_user$ sysctl -a | grep machdep.cpu.features

  machdep.cpu.features: FPU VME DE PSE TSC MSR PAE MCE CX8 APIC SEP MTRR PGE MCA CMOV PAT PSE36 CLFSH DS ACPI MMX FXSR SSE SSE2 SS HTT TM PBE SSE3 PCLMULQDQ DTES64 MON DSCPL VMX SMX EST TM2 SSSE3 CX16 TPR PDCM SSE4.1 SSE4.2 x2APIC POPCNT AES PCID XSAVE OSXSAVE TSCTMR AVX1.0 RDRAND F16C

I've bolded the presence of the AXV1.0 CPU feature in the report from my Mac: iMac 27" Late 2012 3.4GHz Core i7.

(Answer lifted from this site.)


Certain podcasts not syncing to iPhone when subscribed through iTunes I subscribe to a lot of podcast both audio and video on iTunes.  I rarely have an issue with the audio but the video ones sometimes will not sync certain podcasts.

For example current the "Fast Lane Daily" video podcast will not sync at all.  I have been watching this podcast for over 2 years but all of sudden it will not sync.

http://itunes.apple.com/ca/podcast/fast-lane-daily-car-news./id217735843

Any ideas what the issue could be?  This seems to happen intermitently with other video podcasts from time to time as well.  Such as the UFC video podcast:

http://itunes.apple.com/ca/podcast/the-best-of-the-ufc/id424338078

It's hit and miss with this one.  Some sync some do not.

Is there a way to identify which ones will not sync even?  Currently this is a manual process after a sync where I go through each podcast and manually verify that they have copied over and identify which ones have not so I can delete those specific 'episodes'.

Is there something I can adjust on my side to ensure the podcasts do sync or is there a way for iTunes to not download ones that will not sync?

Are you using an iPhone 3GS? It's possible that the creators of the video podcast changed their video format to high definition. If that is the case,  these items will not sync because the 3GS can't playback certain HD video formats that are targeted for other more powerful Apple devices like iPad or Apple TV.

More info on supported video formats: http://www.macxdvd.com/mac-dvd-video-converter-how-to/iphone-video-format-supported.htm


Question marks folder when I turn on my mac I recently tried to reinstall macOS on my MacBook Air 2017 (Catalina) because it was slow and full of problems (for example, I didn't have any disk space though I had deleted and uninstalled everything).
So I started to follow a tutorial: I launched my device by going to my mac recovery, "Disk utility" and I deleted all the data in my Macintosh disk.
I don't know why, but my mac turned off. When I turned it back on, I saw a question mark inside a folder.
So I turned on my mac again, and I pressed CMD + r. I see a progress bar with a planet. It seems to work for now. But after that, when the progress bar is loading with the apple logo, there is a startup sound, the screen becomes completely black, and it comes back to the question mark inside a folder.
I also followed this tutorial. The unique difference is that I press alt rather than cmd + r. I select my wifi, and the downloading of the OS seems to work again, but still the same issue.
Here is a video of the issue.
I tried again and again, the same thing happens everytime, at the same level of loading.
I already tried to reset the NVRAM, but it changes nothing.
If you have a possible solution to share me... thanks !

After several trials, it finally worked. If you are having the same issue make sure you have a good internet connection.


Disappearing "From" field in Apple Mail In Apple Mail (7.3) on Mavericks (10.9.4), when I compose a new message, I cannot choose which of my two accounts to send from.  Bizarrely, when I open the New Message window, there is a From field, but it quickly disappears.  I'm including an animated GIF showing this behavior below.  How do I stop the From field from vanishing?

Open your preferences and go to "composing" amd change the setting for "Send new messages from:", close the preferences, quit mail, and then reset your preference to what you want.

If this doesn't work, make sure you don't have any Mail plugins installed.

Check the folder(s) if they exist:

$HOME/Library/Mail/V2/Bundles/
 $HOME/Library/Mail/Bundles/


Cannot remove wrong autocorrect/predicitve text language I want my iPhone keyboard's autocorrect and predictive text to be English only, but it somehow it is set to both English and French at the same time.  For example if I type "tress" then it shows "très" as a prediction.  If I then press space it autocorrects to "très".

French is not selected in my keyboard settings (Settings -> General -> Keyboard) nor in my dictionary settings (Settings -> General -> Dictionary).  These are the two places that one needs to change according to online resources.

When I removed "French" from "Settings -> General -> Language & Region -> Other languages" then the problem disappeared.


How do I know if I have the Lion recovery partition set up? I am looking to swap my HDD for SSD and OWC recommended methods 2 listed in this link

Perform your drive upgrade.
Place your original drive in an external enclosure.
Boot to the recovery partition on your original drive by holding down Command-R and starting up.
Use Disk Utility to Restore to your new drive.
Restart or Boot your Mac to the new drive.

So I was wondering if my MacBook has Lion recovery partition set up properly.

In the Terminal (located at /Applications/Utilities/Terminal.app) type:

diskutil list

You know that you have a Recovery Partition installed if you see this entry:

Apple_Boot Recovery HD             650.0 MB


Why doesn't Epson driver show up in Software Update as Epson claims it will? I'm following Epson's guide for installing OS X 10.9 Epson drivers for Workforce 610, which says to use OS X Software Update to install. Unfortunately, nothing under "Updates" mentions Epson.

I've tried connecting to printer with both USB and Wireless network, and neither work.

The printer already works with an existing Mac on the network.

It turns out the Software Update page was simply cached, and pushing Cmd+R on the keyboard forced it to recheck for updates.


What filesystems does iOS use? I can't find this information documented anywhere.

What filesystems do iOS devices use?

Did Apple stick with HFS+?

Is it different between devices and iOS versions?

The other answer seems to be correct about the file system being HFSX*, but on being case-insensitive (other answer since edited to correct), I found that not to be the case in the book Mac OS X and iOS Internals. On page 23 it says:

In iOS, being the case sensitive HFSX by default, case is not only
preserved, but allows for multiple files to have the same name, albeit
with a different case. Naturally, case sensitivity means typos produce
a totally different command or file reference, often a wrong one.
[emphasis above is mine]

Since that didn't agree with the other answer, I sought confirmation.  I loaded a sample iOS project I was working on and changed the name of the database to only differ by case.  After running the app on my iPad mini (iOS 6.1) to re-create the database, I went into iTunes and looked at the files under File Sharing for the application.  Here's what I saw:

So, it would appear Mac OS X and iOS Internals is correct: case is preserved and allows for multiple files to have the same name.
Interestingly, when I selected both files in iTunes' File Sharing and clicked "Save to..." my desktop, I did not get any warning.  iTunes apparently "saved" both files to my desktop, but only the initial-uppercase version survived (presumably overwriting the initial-lowercase version of the file.)

* 2017 Update to Apple File System (APFS):
As of iOS 10.3, released on March 27, 2017, iOS now uses the new Apple File System (APFS), said to be "optimized for flash and solid-state drive storage, with a primary focus on encryption."
APFS was announced at WWDC 2016 and there is a WWDC video titled Introducing Apple File System, and an Apple File System Guide for developers. The features section of the guide may be of specific interest.


Special HDMI cable for Apple TV? I'm looking to purchase a HDMI cable online for use with my AppleTV. I asked the seller just to be on the safe side, would this cable work with an AppleTV and he said it will not work.

From searching the Apple site it seems the only thing the HDMI cable needs is HDCP capability which the seller claims the cable has. The cable is also 1.4 with Ethernet capabilities so it seems to be top of the range.

Would there be any reason why this cable wouldn't work or do I have to purchase a special Apple one?

Link: Item

There is no reason why it wouldn't work. In fact I use even cheaper (but shorter) cables myself and they work fine. For reference, I paid €0.75 a piece for a couple of 0.75m HDMI cables with a local online cable shop, and they work fine for 1080p video.

I'd advise to not succumb to the "gold or silver plated" marketing nonsense or the overpriced "premium" HDMI cables, as even the cheap cables transport your binary 1s and 0s just fine.


Configuring iPad's to not require passwords routinely I have a small commercial building with about 6 iPads that were set up by a marginally competent vendor. They periodically require passcodes and Apple ID passwords and this has become a serious inconvenience.

The iPads are set up throughout the building and control things like lighting, access doors, and the security system. Individual applications have their own authentication procedure and everyone in the building is authorized to use the system. The Apple ID is owned by management and has a very secure password.

Here's the problem:

The iPads constantly prompt for the Apple ID password, which only management knows. This has resulted in someone from management having to go to every room in the building and enter the very secure (takes long to enter) on every iPad. And I've watched them do this -- it prompts for it over and over. First it asks for it for no particular reason. Then it asks for it to update software. Then it asks for it again for no particular reason. I should make a video of this, it's ridiculous.

This means application additions and updates have to wait for management to make rounds to every iPad and enter every password two or three times. The prompts for the Apple ID password also seem to appear randomly and are system modal -- you can't just ignore them or hit the home key, you must answer them.

There has to be a better way.

How can I deal with users trying to access emergency functions having to find the "Cancel" button on an Apple ID prompt that has appeared for no particular reason?

How can I allow users to install and update applications without having to go to a manager to get the Apple ID password?

Are we doing everything wrong? Is there some simple, sane way for a very small entity to manage a small number of iPads that solves these issues?

I’d say - superficially you’re doing it wrong. I’m sure there were good intentions to start, but a little professional management would go a long way in your situation. You'll need automation and someone to learn and/or explain how these iPads will be managed securely:

There’s no fighting the inherent design of iOS to be tied closely to an AppleID.
You need MDM supervision to lock these devices to your business in supervised mode.
MDM allows easy purchasing and provisioning of iOS apps centrally and securely (no password required on the devices)

Here is the documentation on forcing updates which means people don't need to enter the password.

You don’t need to be so draconian on pass codes or local accounts now that you've decoupled management and automated setup / wiping.

MDM frees you to hand the devices to people that could break things by not being trained how to operate the iPad settings and updates. Don’t blame the vendor or the people, just make it free / inexpensive / reliable to get things back where they need to be. iOS devices can be managed, secured and ready to work like a refrigerator or espresso machine and not like a Mac or PC needing paid help desk and a lot of end user training.

If you’re budget constrained. I would dip your toes in with a free - hosted MDM like Jamf Now - You get three enrollments for free forever and can read up on how to assign devices and apps systematically.

https://www.jamf.com/products/jamf-now/

The reason I recommended that one is they specialize in MDM for teams without dedicated IT support and have extremely helpful user support and paid support for customers.

Another option would be Ground Control - they have a more “image” focused, so if you wanted to treat these iPads like a cart of devices all set up the same, explore their offering:

https://www.groundctl.com/

Once you’ve gotten one or two devices enrolled and played around a bit, you can decide if it’s time for you to manage the AppleID for this company using Apple Business Manager:

https://business.apple.com/

There is a cost you need to invest in terms of time you’ll spend learning to manage this, so I would make an estimate how much opportunity cost you’re losing by managing things and learning and making mistakes vs paying a team that knows how to run things to come in for a fixed period / fixed cost and get you stabilized. That way you’re happy with paying so you can make money elsewhere (or control budget elsewhere) or that you’re happy having you/your staff learn how to manage IT whether it’s your job or a side assignment.


Is my iPhone 7 that was bought in Japan compatible with Verizon neywork and H2O wireless network? I would like to know if my new phone, iPhone 7 (A1779) from Japan works on Verizon and H2O wireless network. According to the spec sheet of an iPhone 7 from Apple web page, the compatible cellular bands are:

FDD-LTE（band 1、2、3、4、5、7、8、11、12、13、17、18、19、20、21、25、26、27、28、29、30）
TD-LTE（band 38、39、40、41）
TD-SCDMA 1,900（F）、2,000（A）
CDMA EV-DO Rev. A（800、1,900、2,100MHz）
UMTS/HSPA+/DC-HSDPA（850、900、1,700/2,100、1,900、2,100MHz）
GSM/EDGE（850、900、1,800、1,900MHz）

but I don't know about this kinds of stuff so well, so I want to ask you if my Japanese iPhone 7 works or not.

Yes. The A1660 (which supports both GSM and CDMA) is identical in terms of cellular capabilities. This is the phone you'd get under a Verizon contract, or if you just buy one without a contract. The A1779 differs only in that it includes contactless NFC for use in Japan.

All models of the iPhone 7 support GSM, so H20 is no problem.


Apple Music / iTunes: Cannot add track to playlist when iPhone connected via wifi Following occurs when using Apple Music / itunes:
I'm in itunes, listening to some music from an Apple Music Playlist. I am also connected to a wifi network, the same network that my iPhone is on.

When I like a track I want to add it to one of my own playlists so I click on the three dots, select 'add to playlist', select the correct playlist and all is well.

However, when itunes shows the little phone icon in the icon bar (indicating my iPhone was detected in the same wifi and wifi sync is available, although I am not actually syncing anything) the option to add a song to a playlist disappears. It is no longer available when I click the three dots next to a song. As soon as I eject the iPhone, the option is available once more.

What is happening here (why does add to playlist disappear), and how can I keep adding music to a playlist even when the iPhone is connected via wifi sync?

This problem has been bugging me so much, it seemed so random but yes it definitely disappears the moment you plug in the iPhone, then appears again the moment you take it out.

I assume this is a bug and will be fixed soon, but here are a couple workarounds:

As you say, eject the iPhone either by physically disconnecting, or clicking the eject icon.
You can click "Add to My Music", then go to your library, find the relevant song, and drag/drop into a playlist. It works, but it's not much fun.


Error saving credit card information. Try again later. I am trying to join https://searchads.apple.com , but I am getting this error:

  Error saving credit card information. Try again later.  (Error: 3564473453).

I read something about it here and it looks that it is because I am using a debit card.
My question is: Does anyone know what could solve my problem(except using credit card).

Thank you

If you're using the store for the first time with an existing Apple ID, you must provide a payment method. After you create the account, you can change your payment information to "None."
If you're creating a new Apple ID, you might be able to create an account without entering your credit card details.


MacOS dictionary look up stopped working I'm suddenly unable to use the dictionary look up feature in MacOS. When I choose "Look up" on a word I get a dialog saying that "Look Up now shows personalized suggestions... etc" and a button on the bottom that says "Continue" (see image). But the button does not respond to clicking it, so I'm stuck with this message. Neither updating the OS nor restarting seems to mend the issue.

Using MacOS High Sierra 10.13.3

Found a quick fix. Just turning of Spotlight suggestions in Look up brought back the dictionary.

Not being able to click the button previously still seems like a bug to me though.


Apple Maps for iOS App I'm interested in using Apple Maps for an iOS app, and have a couple of questions about it.

Is there any cost associated with using Apple Maps? Is it free, or does it depend on the type of use?
Does Apple Maps have the ability to run predefined queries based on device location? (nearby attractions, for example).

Is there any cost associated with using Apple Maps? Is it free, or does it depend on the type of use?

It's free to use within a map view in your iOS app, in any way.

  Does Apple Maps have the ability to run predefined queries based on device location? (nearby attractions, for example).

Yes. Implementation is off-topic here.


Little Snitch Global rule not working I have a little snitch rule effective in all profiles to allow any process to connect to *.apple.com

Why do I keep getting request for applications to connect to apple.com? Here are 4 different processes requiring permission. I thought that the rule above should cover these...??

On closer examination of the rule in the picture, it looks like it is set to Hostnames apple.com, not Domains apple.com, which may make all the difference.

If not, try adding a duplicate Domains rule also for System processes, as well as 'My' processes.

If that spits out any duplicates, you can then clear the others.
You may find some are locked - so disable or just leave as a dupe, it won't actually hurt anything.


Is there a way to get a screenshot / snapshot of a movie purchased on iTunes? Using ⌘Shift3 or ⌘Shift4 won't work -- it will capture a grey window. (I think it is due to the video being displayed using the video card's video buffer).

I think one way is to use an iPad and play the movie and take a screenshot by the Home and Power button together, but other than that, is there a way to take it on the Mac, without installing any additional program?

You can't take a screenshot of a protected video with the stock Mac tools.  Apple has built-in protection to prevent this from happening (if the video is not protected, then it's ok to take a screenshot).

The only way you'll be able to do this is to use a third-party video player, like VLC, or a third-party image capture, like SnapNDrag.


Error copying large file to usb 16GB Thumbdrive Trying to copy a file (Win7_IE8.vhd) to a USB drive.

The file is 9.07GB in size according to my Mac file info.

The USB drive is 16GB.  I bought it new 10 minutes ago. This is its first use.

I get:
The item "Win7_IE8.vhd" can't be copied because it is too large for the volume's format.

How can I overcome this issue to copy this file which seems like it should fit?

The answer was that the default formatting was FAT32 which has a limit of 4GB per file.

The answer was to format the drive.  As I'm copying from Mac to Linux I chose the Ex-FAT format, all the better to interchange with.  I used the Disk Utility which is within a 'Utilities' folder which is itself at the bottom of the applications list.


I can't download garageband sounds I purchased I installed Garageband 10.0.3 on my MacBook Pro 2013 when it was running Mavericks. I then purchased the additional sounds. I delayed downloading them all because at the time I didn't need them right away. I installed Yosemite, and now want to download them, however when I go to GarageBand > Download More Sounds the option is grey and clicking on it does nothing. I tried signing into the Appstore and opening Garageband through there, and it didn't work. I've restarted Garageband several times but with no luck. I'm wondering if I need to reinstall it, however I'm not quite sure how to do this. If anyone knows how to fix this, please let me know. If you need more information or this question needs to be edited, please let me know. Thank you for your time.

The issue has been resolved try downloading again.

Source: Apple Support


Removing a contact from a folder in Yosemite Contacts software I created a folder in the Yosemite Contacts program and added some people to it. I'd like to remove a contact from the folder but keep the contact in my overall contacts database.

How do I do this?  The delete button deletes it completely.

Here is what I see if I select a name in a group and press delete.  I don't get the dialog box above with the "Remove from Groups" option:

If I select the contact and use the Edit menu the "Remove from Group" item is greyed out:

There's a Remove From Group Menu item.

Select Your contact in the Group and open Edit -> Remove From Group.


Stuck without admin account on a MacBook Air running 10.5.8 I did a backup on my MacBook Air as I had lost admin rights and thought my best option was to carry out a reinstallation with the original disc which I obtain on purchase would assist.

When done, I loaded the updates etc, all was well until I restarted after some updates.

I lost admin rights so only had limited access as visitor, cannot go back to reload the software as keeps asking admin password.

Took my mac to BTOption supposedly Apple Authorized Service Provider (info@btoptions.com) in Colombo Sri Lanka, they are as stumped and as lost as I am, any suggestions greatly accepted.

They say I need the firmware password to reinstall the system.

Learned something new today:  You can break the firmware password with help from Apple.

http://reviews.cnet.com/8301-13727_7-57542601-263/efi-firmware-protection-locks-down-newer-macs/

This note says that Authorized Service Providers are equipped for that?  http://support.apple.com/kb/ts3554


X takes a long time to load under Lion I recently upgraded to Lion.  X now takes a couple of minutes to load.  Anybody know what to change to make this go faster?

As per the Lion technical specifications, there must be at least 2GB of RAM. Do u have ?
If yes, then there may be some other unnecessary applications using the resources of OS. These must be either stopped or removed from your Mac.

To keep your Mac clean and remove unnecessary data, you can use Stellar Speed Up Mac software.

Please make sure you have enough free space in your disk.


Remove any numbers at the front of a file name or remove the first two numbers for Mac I have a thousand files that are named like this...

01 heartbeat a.wav
02 heartbeat b.wav
03 heartbeat c.wav

I'm looking for a terminal command that will remove the numbers at the front of the name.
And when I use the code do I start with

"cd_"
drop the folder in terminal
enter
"ls"
enter
Copy and paste the command?

Thank you!!

This answer recommends you install rename via brew.


Old versions of the OS X Human Interface Guidelines I'm looking to write a paper on how the OS X user interface has evolved from OS X Leopard all the way through to OS X Yosemite and am seeking guidance on where to find older versions of the OS X Human Interface Guidelines documentation.

The following data should aid in the search in the circumstance that navigating the WayBack Machine in the event that that is the only viable option.

OS X 10.5 Leopard Release Date: October 26, 2007
OS X 10.6 Snow Leopard Release Date: August 28, 2009
OS X 10.7 Lion Release Date: July 20, 2011
OS X 10.8 Mountain Lion Release Date: July 25, 2012
OS X 10.9 Mavericks Release Date: October 22, 2013
OS X 10.10 Yosemite Release Date: October 16, 2014

Any help in finding these documents would be greatly appreciated.

If there's not a complete link to them, perhaps several answers could point to each or one answer be maintained to point to them all.

It wasn't easy, but I think I got all of them.

2006-10-03:

https://web.archive.org/web/20070520203932/http://developer.apple.com/documentation/UserExperience/Conceptual/OSXHIGuidelines/OSXHIGuidelines.pdf

2008-01-15:

https://web.archive.org/web/20080225084449/http://developer.apple.com/documentation/UserExperience/Conceptual/OSXHIGuidelines/OSXHIGuidelines.pdf

2008-06-09:

https://web.archive.org/web/20081222045913/http://developer.apple.com/documentation/UserExperience/Conceptual/AppleHIGuidelines/OSXHIGuidelines.pdf

2009-08-20:

https://web.archive.org/web/20110604173215/http://developer.apple.com/library/mac/documentation/UserExperience/Conceptual/AppleHIGuidelines/OSXHIGuidelines.pdf

2012-07-23:

https://web.archive.org/web/20121004065110/https://developer.apple.com/library/mac/documentation/UserExperience/Conceptual/AppleHIGuidelines/OSXHIGuidelines.pdf

2013-10-22:

https://web.archive.org/web/20140603021344/https://developer.apple.com/library/mac/documentation/UserExperience/Conceptual/AppleHIGuidelines/OSXHIGuidelines.pdf


How do I get command+tab to stop re-ordering spaces Right now I have Chrome set up in Desktop 1, Terminal in Desktop 2, and Spotify in Desktop 3.  If I command+tab to Spotify, it changes the order of the desktops, so now Desktop 3 is Desktop 2 and Desktop 2 is Desktop 3.  This is frustrating because I expected them to stay put.  What I would like to have happen when I command+tab to Spotify is have it go to Desktop 3 and not reorder the Desktops.

You can change the default preference easily:

System Prefs > Mission Control > Automatically rearrange Spaces based on most recent use.


I have the iphone 4s and it will not record videos My iphone 4s will not let me take pictures or videos it keeps telling me that i do not have enough space available. But i have recently taken all my picture off and put them on my computer. So i have very few picture on the iphone and very few apps. I have tried deleting both more apps and picture but it does not seem to help. What is going on? this has never happened before what should i do? Thank you! :)

Go to your settings, press general, then usage. See how much space you have left. There may be something else taking up your space.


Time Machine backup strategy to avoid ransomware/other malware I am trying to develop a strategy to protect a 2016 iMac against ransomware and other types of malware.
I have several assumptions:

An infection is going to occur when I am using it. Things such as clicking on an infected email or website.
If the computer can be compromised, then any drive that can be accessed through Finder (iCloud, Drobox, OneDrive, Google Docs or USB drive) can be compromised also.
I can back up to a USB drive, then disconnect it. I am looking for something more automatic. (easier) Something I can't mess up or forget to do.

Could I schedule a USB drive to Mount/Unmount at a scheduled time with Automator and then set Time Machine to backup during that time?

2 am mount USB drive
2:30 am Time Machine back up.
5 am unmount USB drive

For the mounting unmounting part you can simply use the commands

  diskutil mount HDD UUID

for mounting the USB disk and

  diskutil unmount HDD UUID

You can get the UUID selecting the drive or partition in Disk Utility and clicking on "Info".

For the Time Machine part, you could use TimeMachineScheduler it let you change the interval of backups and also set time where no backups are to be done.

Let us know if that worked for you, or if not let us know more info about what version of OS X you are running etc!


Will I miss something if I uninstall Growl off Mountain Lion? I updated to Mountain Lion more than a year ago.

Even before that, Growl has been annoying me with a pop-up asking me to update.

The new version is costs 4 USD in the App Store.

Since ML has notifications:

Should I care for Growl anymore ?
Would I'll be missing something if I unistall Growl ?

I was an avid user of Growl before Mountain Lion. I started a fresh install without growl and all my apps that were using growl have been updated to use the built in notifications.

Unless there is something specific you need from the growl features I doubt you'll miss it.


SATA 2 SSD in Mac Pro '09 I have an early 2009 Mac Pro(4,1). Firmware upgraded to a '10(5,1), 24GB RAM, upgraded processors to two quad core 3.46 GHz Xeons', NVIDIA GeForce GTX 760 2GB. I'm looking at the next upgrade options and an SSD comes to mind. As you probably know, the '09 and '10 have SATA II, not III.
What I want to know is the performance gain from a HDD to a SSD running at SATA II, as opposed to III, worth the upgrade? Can SATA II SSDs be found at a lower price than SATA III drives, if they can be found at all?

I know I can either get a SATA III card or a PCI SSD and not have the performance hit, but that adds enough to the cost of the upgrade to not fit in the budget at this time.

Empirically, the answer is 'Yes'.

I have a very similar machine - 4,1 -> 5,1, dual 3.46GHZ Xeons, 64GB RAM & also an older 3,1.

Both now have an SATA III 840 EVO 1TB as boot drive [best available at the time of purchase] in the first optical drive bay [leaving room for your usual 4 HDs in the regular bays. Adapter bracket a few quid/dollars/shekels from eBay.
On the 4,1 it connects directly to the cabling in the bay, the 3,1 needs a longer SATA cable down into the main body, under the cooling fans, where the two 'secret' SATA ports are.

No, they don't run at SATA III speeds, but boy do they make the entire machine more responsive. Boot time down from a couple of minutes to 15 seconds. iTunes [the slowest to launch that I know of] now launches in about 5 seconds. Finder is zippy & responsive, no more waiting for it to fill a window.

You get so used to the speed you don't notice it until you have to use a machine with a spinning HD again.

Speed test - SSD

Speed test - HD


How do I get a Save As… option always appear in my Apple apps without using the OPTION key? I couldn’t find an answer here, so maybe this doesn’t bug anyone else. But surely it must?

Basically, when using Apple apps such as TextEdit, Preview, Pages, Numbers, there is no Save As… option unless you hold down the OPTION key. This is just such a time waster and can’t possibly ‘add’ to the user experience. Plain dumb if you ask me.

How can I add this option so that it appears by default without having to press the OPTION key?

The easiest workaround is to actually create a custom shortcut for Save As… using the same keyboard shortcut as the Duplicate option. In other words, don’t use the default keyboard shortcut of shiftoptioncommandS, but change it to optioncommandS instead.

You can do this as follows:

Go to Apple > System Preferences…
Click on the Keyboard preference pane
Select the Shortcuts tab
In the lefthand pane select the App Shortcuts option
Now click on the + button
Ensure that All Applications is selected for the Application field
For the Menu Title field type in “Save As…”
Click on the Keyboard Shortcut field and now press the optioncommandS keys (remember, this will totally replace the Duplicate option from appearing in the menu).
Now click on the Add button

Now you’ll have the Save As… option by default in your various Apple app File menus.


Can iPhones play Opus files? Can iPhone play Opus music files? Nothing found on the web or here.

https://duckduckgo.com/?q=can+iphone+play+opus&ia=web

https://apple.stackexchange.com/search?q=opus

Update Nov 2017:
Opus is now included in iOS 11.

iOS 11 and Android Spearhead Universal Support For Opus Audio Codec, MP3’s Overdue Successor

Judging by this conversation on the Apple forums, it seems unlikely an iPhone can use the format directly.

  Since Opus is not compatible with most popular players and devices so far, it's absolutely impracticable, no matter directly play Opus files on Windows Media Player, Android, PS3, Xbox 360 and iTunes or sync Opus to iPhone, iPod, iPad via iTunes, or edit these Opus in iMovie and QuickTime.

  Under the circumstances, the best solution is to convert Opus to MP3 and other more compatible audio formats in order to play or edit Opus in the above popular players and devices.

One of the posters mentioned that Adapter (freeware) can convert then to a playable format, MP3, AAC etc.


iTunes keeps respawning Possible Duplicate:
  Why does iTunes re-open after I quit?

Hey,

I have some rather annyoing behavior with my system:
Whenever I close or kill -9iTunes it just keeps coming back up.

Any ideas how I can find the root cause of this?

Do you use any add-ons / controllers for iTunes, like Media Servers (eg. Plex, Front Row) or others for global hot-keys or song notifications? Sometimes these apps use applescript, which tends to launch applications if they´re not already running.


Delays or skipping for single key on keyboard The 'T' key on my 2014 macbook pro is behaving strangely.

It sometimes works, but often doesn't. Mostly it skips completely. Other times it has a delay, such that I type the words correctly, but the T appears out of sequence.  Once in a while it will work great for a minute or less.

I don't suspect a dirty key because sometimes he 'T' will appear after I have released the key. I have cleaned under the key anyway and it looks good. I have reset NVRAM and SMC.

To illustrate the problem, here's this question as it was originally typed, before I painstakingly fixed it up.

he 'T' key on my 2014 macbook pro is behaving srangely.

I someimes works, bu ofetn doesn'. Mosly i skips compleetly. Oher imes i has a delay, such ha I ype he words correcly, bu hte T appears ou of sequence. Once in a while i will work grea for a minue or less.

I don' suspec ta diry key because someimes he 'T' will appear afer I have released he key. I have cleaned under he key anyway and i looks good. I have rese NVRAM and SMC.

Can I fix it?

Edit - answering questions in the comments:

Testing behaviour a bit more, I realise that many of my apps don't permit repeating (including chrome and IDEA). So I've tested in vi where repeating works. The key's behaviour seems more consistent:

There is a delay of around 1 second before the 't' character appears and another delay of about 1 second before the repeating stops after key release. The keypress signal is delayed 1 second.
It seems unaffected by temperature.
As of this afternoon, the delete key is also affected.

It sounds like you have a defective keyboard. Yah it's difficult, nigh impossible, to diagnose hardware via messages on the internet but that is my guess.

It may be possible to find a used, working, keyboard on eBay or the like, if you feel up to replacing it yourself. iFixIt likely has a take apart guide that would show you how difficult it would be to do it.

If you are anywhere near an Apple Store I would make a full backup of your system. Create a new admin user for Apple to use and take it in to an Apple Store for diagnosis and/or repair.


Repeated keystroke "w" for Agar.io I've been searching for the relevant articles on the Internet and found nothing useful. Maybe I'm too stupid to understand.

I would like to create a script that automatically keep pressing the "W" key, like wwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwww, endlessly and as quick as possible when I press and hold the key, and it ends when I release the key.

"defaults write -g ApplePressAndHoldEnabled -bool false" doesn't work in this case.

Thank you very much in advanced.

Karabiner:

  <item>
    <identifier>private.w2wRepeat</identifier>
    <name>Turn W key to W key repeat</name>
    <autogen>
      __KeyToKey__
      KeyCode::W,
      KeyCode::W,
      DelayUntilRepeat::RawValue::1,
      KeyRepeat::RawValue::1,
    </autogen>
  </item>


How do I re-download songs I purchased on the iPad, after formatting the iPad? I formatted the iPad and lost my songs.

Is it possible to re-download songs I bought via iPad?

Yes the purchased tab in the app stores should allow you to re-download most if not all of your purchases. If you have previously hidden some purchases, you may need to access your Apple store account (Apple ID) to see the unfiltered list of past purchases.

Please see this link or this link on Apple's website for more details. You can edit your question or ask another if you find a problem on a specific step.


Chrome address bar disappeared after update I have a weird issue with Chrome (69.0.3497.92 (Official Build) (64-bit)). When I go into fullscreen mode with CMD + CTRL + F the addressbar disappears.

It started after the update from the old known theme to the 'new' flat Chrome version. I cannot browse to URLs in fullscreen mode anymore.

To make it completely clear. It is not with the video based fullscreen etc. it concerns every page.

Normal view:

Fullscreen view:

Anyone know how to fix this?

Open Google Chrome on your Mac
Move cursor to top of screen where OS Toolbar is located and click VIEW
In the drop-down menu that appears, click "Always show toolbar in full screen"


How to get iTunes to skip over 1 star songs? Is there a way to get iTunes to just never play any 1 star songs. I know I can delete the 1 star songs but just wondering if there is a way to just skip them.

The simplest way to do this is to make a Smart Playlist with the rule of "Rating is not 1 star". The playlist will auto-update as you add and rate new music. You would just want to make sure you always play your songs from this smart playlist or make other playlists include the "white list" or exclude a "black list" that consists of all one star items.


OSX dock mysterious element I have a mysterious element appearing on my dock that looks like the indicator under a folder but isn't actually attached to anything - any ideas how to get rid of this?

If I turn on dock hiding it disappears when the dock is hidden but reappears when the dock is visible.

Hardware: Macbook Pro Retina 13 running OS X Yosemite 10.10.1

I managed to fix this by restarting the dock by running the following in the terminal:

killall -KILL Dock


How similar is Microsoft Excel for Mac to Excel for Windows? Like the title says - how similar is Microsoft Excel for Mac to Excel for Windows? Is it confusing when you have to keep switching from one to the other when working on a complicated excel file? (For example using a Mac at home and Windows at work). Are the formatting and formula inputs exactly the same? Thanks for any answers!

My Excel in the Mac doesn't open some password-protected files of my Windows ExceL: in Windows, the Excel passwords can have an almos limitless number of caracters, but in the Mac the password must be 16 or less.

The only solution I found was to reduce the number of characters in the password of the Windows files.

If you have Office for Mac 2011, there is a 100 percent compatibility ratio, as described on the BrightHub review.

I work with both and personally, I find Excel for Windows much more intuitive and more user friendly, but basically you can do (almost) the same with both versions.

But the most important part is, the two versions are 100% compatible with each other.


Failing to Connect Remote App to AppleTV (4th Gen), While Screen Sharing Works I don't have access to my proper AppleTV remote to control my AppleTV (4th Gen), but that's no problem because I can use the Remote app on an iPhone and iPad.

The Remote app was working fine until one morning it wouldn't connect from any iPhone or iPad. The status listed is "offline" -- see the attached screenshot.

The AppleTV appears to be still connected to the WiFi network, as I am able to share my iPhone's screen.

How would screen sharing work but the Remote not work?

I killed the Remote app multiple times (swipe up) and rebooted the AppleTV (power cycle).

Screen sharing and AirPlay can work over Bluetooth -- WiFi is not necessary. On the other hand the Remote app requires that the AppleTV is connected to WiFi.

This explained my problem.  My AppleTV was connected to a 2.4 GHz WiFi network, which stopped working. For some reason the 5 GHz network continued to work and my iPhone switched over, so I didn't notice.

Since I didn't have an original remote, I was able to follow these steps to switch the AppleTV over to the 5 GHz network:

Find a regular TV remote (with directional pad buttons).
Plug the ethernet cable to the Apple TV.
With the iOS Remote App go to Settings -> General -> Remotes
Select Learn Remote and follow the steps to teach AppleTV your TV
remote.
Once done, unplug the ethernet cable and set the WiFi under
General -> Network -> WiFi.


How do you prevent an iPod Classic (and other iPods) from losing ratings on sync On a number of occasions I have synced my iPod after several months of ratings only to have all of my meticulously applied stars get erased from the iPod Classic.

I switched from the more convenient Manual mode to Automatic management but it still seems to wipe my ratings. The ideal behavior would be to have iTunes sync the new stars back to my library. Why wouldn't this happen?

Im not sure this is default behavior. I use stars and smart playlists to actually help manage things (smart playlist to delete songs, and then rate things with 5 stars that need to be 'processed'). I sync usually once a week, and it always syncs these changes back and forth.

Its supposed to sync all the songs in recently played to update their metadata (like playcounts) as well. Maybe if you don't sync for months, that playlist doesn't show everything, and therefore looses some of your ratings?


Why won't iTunes update my iPod Touch from 4.0b to 4.1? My iPod Touch shows the icon for "I won't do anything until you connect me to iTunes." When I obey, iTunes tells me:

  The software on the iPod has expired and must be updated to a newer version.

So I go to click the "Check for Update" button. But when I do, iTunes tells me:

  This version of the iPod software (4.0) is the current version.

When I click the "Restore" button, iTunes tells me:

  There was a problem downloading the software for the iPod. The requested resource was not found.

The current version on the iPod is 8A274b (4.0 beta), which has, of course, expired. I just updated iTunes, so I have the latest version of that. Does anyone know how I might fix this situation?

If you have the 4.0 beta, you are able to download the 4.1 GM from developer.apple.com and use Xcode's Organizer or iTunes (by holding the option key when clicking restore) to choose the correct version of iOS (which is on the disk image you downloaded) to reload onto the iPod.


Multiple installs of the same application? Is there any way to have multiple installs of the same application (in the same user account)?

Basically, I have several google reader accounts, and I want to be able to have multiple instances of Reeder. As it is, changing accounts at the moment involves restarting the app, and manually typing the different account info in. At that point, you have access to only one of the accounts, and switching involves the whole rigamarole again.

Is there any way I can have something like a sandbox for each instance, with it's own keychain?

I have Xcode installed, and I would imagine there is some mechanism in Xcode for letting programs have separate keychain/info, for when you are testing an app you have compiled. Is there something like this and/or how do you use it?

You can do this with Reeder.

You will need as many user accounts as you have Google accounts.
Supposing you have 2 Google accounts, you can obviously run your main Google account as the default user. Just click on Reeder from Launcher or Dock and you are good to go.
Go to System Preferences, Users & Groups, and create a new user. Call it TestUser. Make sure you set a password. A standard user account would do.
Open Terminal.
execute this: echo "password" | sudo -S -u TestUser /Applications/Reeder.app/Contents/MacOS/Reeder &

voila! You can now see a 2nd Reeder window!


How to fix empty/blank notifications? I am using an iPhone 7 on iOS 10.1.1 and I need some help!

Every time I get a notification it is empty/blank, only the name of the app is in the title. How can I fix this?

Same is happening to me. I'm on 10.1.1, downgraded from 10.2, but didn't notice if the issue started after upgrading to 10.2 or only after the downgrade.

I've found someone on the internet (couldn't find the link again) that suggested deleting and reinstalling each app, which I tested with one app and worked. But I'm still looking for a better solution, since it would be a real pain to delete and reinstall every single app...

For me, upgrading again to 10.2 and back to 10.1.1, but it didn't fix the problem.

Worst case, you can wipe all settings per this reddit thread which resolved my issues on this subject.

  I went to Settings > General > Reset > Reset all settings

Be careful not to reset settings and data The above option has similar wording, but only resets your settings without deleting apps content and data files / content.


Installed Snow Leopard on VirtualBox but can't install guest additions My host machine is Windows 7. I installed Snow Leopard on VirtualBox but i am having problem installing the guest additions. The guest additions iso is mounted in /Volumes/VBOXADDITIONS_4. But if I run the install command sudo sh ./VBoxLinuxAdditons.run I get Unable to determaine library path.

Is installing guest additions for Mac OS X on VirtualBox even possible?

From Virtualbox Manual : Chapter 14:

  14.2. Known Issues
  Mac OS X guests:
  VirtualBox does not provide Guest Additions for Mac OS X at this time

What you are trying to run is the script for Linux distributions. That does not work on OS X due to numerous differences in the system, despite a similar-ish base.

From the content of this, I wouldn't hold out for such support in VirtualBox any time soon.


Is the iPhone 6 waterproof or water-resistant? Before the iPhone 6 was officially announced by Apple, several reports claimed that the device will be waterproof.

However, the announcement and specifications on Apple's site make no mention of it.

It would seem clear that the device is not waterproof, but has this been specifically reported or verified after the announcement?

The iPhone 6 is neither waterproof nor water-resistant as marketed by Apple. Though tech journalists have found that the iPhone 6S is semi-water resistant, Only the iPhone 7 is currently certified as being water-resistant.


How to buy and/or download OS X Server 4 I am upgrading an older server. It was running Mavericks (10.9) and just upgraded to Yosemite (10.10). However, when I try to upgrade the Server app, the only option I have is the new macOS Server, which won't install on my OS.

I've searched the web for hours looking for a legitimate way to buy and/or download this software, but there appears to be no way to do it.

As I never bought the app, it doesn't appear in my Purchases list in the App Store.

Does any one know how I can get OS X Server 4?

I would suggest trying to purchase Server 3.2.2 if you did not already have that since running Mavericks. Then look under purchases and if you can see the option to install macOS Server do that. On Yosemite it will ask you to install the latest compatible version Server 5.0.15. (I just installed Yosemite 10.10.5 and Server 5.0.15 on it). Server 4 however seems gone forever.

Reference:
https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT203137


Logitech MX Keys connects to dock but does not connect to mac I have a Logitech MX Keys keyboard, a 2018 MBP running Mojave, and an OWC Thunderbolt 3 dock.  The keyboard is connected through USB C to the dock.

If I had the keyboard working and then unplugged the mac from the dock, when I plug it back in, it works fine.  UNLESS I had opened the laptop and used the built-in keyboard in the meantime.  Then when I plug it in, the keyboard does a slow flash and the mac shows no evidence that it can connect.

Some arbitrary, looong amount of time later, maybe 20-30 minutes, it finally gets around to connecting, taking no action on my part as far as I can tell.  Attempting to manually pairing it in the bluetooth settings doesn't do anything, nor does pressing the button to connect on the keyboard (referring to the source-1, source-2, source-3 buttons to the right of the F-keys).  The keyboard has only ever been used with this machine.

My guess is that it's only connecting through Bluetooth.  Is it not designed to actually be able to connect through USB-C to the computer itself?  Like, is that cord JUST for power?  That feels like a pretty moronic design choice.  But if that's so, is there anything I need to do to make the keyboard reconnect quickly and automatically?

The Logitech MX Keys is a wireless keyboard that uses either Bluetooth LE (low energy) or the Logitech Unifying wireless receiver. The USB cable is for charging only.

So, excluding the USB connection from your question, this comes down to the following possibilities:

Bluetooth Issue
Defective Keyboard

You might have interference issues with your BT (AirPort card) on your Mac. To isolate, remove the dock and try pairing. If that doesn’t work, try pairing with the USB receiver. But to get a solid diagnosis of your BT adapter, try a different device to ensure it connects as it should

As for your keyboard, try pairing with another computer. If the symptoms persist, it’s the keyboard and it should be returned.   If they don’t, then you’ve definitely narrowed it down to your Mac.


AirPort Extreme Roaming Network I'm regularly hosting gaming events for medium-sized groups of 50-100 people. So far, players typically used personal hotspots to connect to the Internet. However, I would like to fix this with an AirPort Extreme setup. Before I purchase the equipment, I would like to answer some questions.

The target setup consists of two AirPort Extremes wired together to create a giant WiFi.

Do the two AirPorts create a shared subnet where every client can see each other?

If yes, what's the maximum size of that subnet? Is it just a 192.168.0.x one with 255 max-clients, or can you go bigger?

If people move from one AirPort to the other one, will they keep the same local IP?
Does AirPort Extreme support UDP broadcasting?

If yes, do these UDP broadcasts work between the AirPorts as well? i.e. if one client is connected through the first AirPort, and the other client is connected through the second AirPort, will they see mutual UDP broadcasts?

Each AirPort Extreme is advertised to handle up to 50 clients. Does this mean that I have to place the routers in a way that roughly halve of my people are in range of the first AirPort and the other halve is closer to the second one? Or will the connections automatically be balanced between AirPorts?

In 2020 - get a Dream Machine if you can. The software does all this automagically. Then add AP as needed to complete your coverage based on your measured quality and channel needs.

Your question is probably too broad, but a pair of recent 802.11ac AirPort extremes might actually run well with 50 clients. I would get a third for 75+ or if your clients aren't on 802.11 AC substitute 2 Express for each one Extreme to get adequate bandwidth over WiFi.

Don't place them all together on one table. The closer they are to the external walls of the room, the better your interference situation will be.
Do link them with cat 5e or better ethernet cable
The one connected to the internet is the router and you'll have plenty of reservations out of the box.
Set the rest up in bridge mode.
Run a wireless scan using airport utility on iOS or get a Mac program like WiFi Explorer so you can assign channels manually and troubleshoot things like spectrum noise to signal and channel overlap and utilization.
If all of your clients are Mac and iOS, and if you place the base stations equally around the space,  toggling Wi-Fi off and on on the clients should do an acceptable job of balancing the load and matching each client to the closest base station
I would probably make different SSID for both 2.4 and 5 GHz and for each base station. You can make the password the same for all of them in that way if you need to go in and read distribute things you can.

If you set things up as I have described, you can choose and arbitrarily large pool of IP addresses, devices will retain the same IP address in general, UDP broadcast won't be a problem.

Set up the first Airport Extreme with Channel 11 and Channel 36
The rest go in bridge mode:

channel 6 and 153
channel 1 and 161
channel 11 and 157 (note 11 overlaps with the first - so make sure this is quite far from the first base station)

Avoid channel 149 since it's used initially for AirDrop/AirPlay. Don't use any channels other than 1, 6 and 11 on 2.4 GHz. If you have more complicated wifi planning needs, get a tool like wifi explorer to actually measure your network conditions in real time.