JetDrive installation with missing Recovery partition: Clone internal SSD to external SSD I have accidentally deleted my recovery partition (Yosemite) - no problem so far.

Now I have bought the JetDrive 725 and want to install it. I have to boot into the recovery mode and clone the internal SDD. Now this obviously won't work as I don't have any recovery partition anymore...

I have seen How can I Create a Recovery Partition on a Newly Installed SSD? and the tip to do an internet recovery and install Yosemite over the existing installation. I am just a bit worried that this will change customizations / settings / installed programs / data.

I obviously have TimeMachine backups, although not all files due to space limitations.

What are the experiences with the internet recovery and to install Yosemite over an existing installation? How safe is it?

Alternatively, are there other options to clone my internal SSD to the new JetDrive SSD?

Carbon Copy Cloner - which can also create Recovery partitions - though it does need to get it from somewhere.

You can clone your boot drive whilst booted from it, with no issues.
Then just swap drives.

If you first clone without the Recovery partition option, you then have 2 identical drives to attempt the Internet Recovery on, with a full safety copy.

Recreate the Recovery Partition on either & CCC can then clone it to the other.

As far as I'm aware, the Internet Recovery should not mess up any settings - but this way is belt & braces.


How to change the document language in Keynote and make the red lines disappear? I am working on a slideshow in Spanish. Pages has the "More" tab on the inspector which allows you to change the language of the selected text / document, but Keynote lacks it.

I know you can spellcheck using Edit > Spelling > Spelling... but apparently this system spellchecker is independent from the document language. The checker will check in spanish, but spanish words in the document are still be underlined in red.

Is there any way to change this? Not only check for spelling in another language, but actually change the document's language and make the red lines disappear?

Turns out I figured it out not long after typing this question! I just thought I'd experiment a little and found out how to do it.

You change the language in Edit > Spelling > Spelling... and then reopen the document. That did it for me. I'm guessing it is a bug: I don't think having to close and open a document for language error display settings to make effect it's very intuitive, but I'm glad it can be done!

I'm posting this anyways to share the knowledge and in the hopes it will be useful to somebody else, struggling with those dotted red lines!


An app to stop another app (Music Player) after some time A friend of mine asked this question "Do you know of any timer apps for iPhone which will close down a particular app after a set period of time?"

On questioning further - the "particular" app happened to be Music Player.

Launch Clock
Choose Timer
Tap on When Timer Ends
Scroll right to the bottom and pick Stop Playing
Set your time - say, 20 minutes (or whatever time you want) and tap on Start

Hope this helps.


Why does Chrome starts fullscreen? With Mac OS Mavericks and Chrome 35 : everytime I start my computer, the first time I launch Chrome, it starts in fullscreen mode. If I exit fullscreen, quit Chrome and then restart it, it's normal. If I reboot (I don't check "open my apps on startup") and re-launch, it starts again in fullscreen.

Why does it do this ?

Thanks

Edit

Actually after further testing, it doesn't always start in fullscreen after a reboot, it seems pretty random.

You could perform the following steps:

Navigate to chrome://settings
Press the radio buttons next to Continue where I left off and under the On Startup header.
Reboot as you've tried and it should remain non-fullscreen next time.


Regarding groff - where is the config file and will this work? I've been reading Terminal Tips and Tricks For Mac OS X when I came across this.

bman () {
    gunzip < `man -w $@` | groff -Thtml -man | bcat
}

Apparently I should be able to view man pages with some HTML mark-up if I save this function somewhere.

The problem is that I don't know which config file it should go into. Are there any other things I should be aware of when using the code above?

For the first part of your question, "What file should the command go in?": put the command in ~/.bash_profile using your favorite editor. For example, you can do this using nano by opening Terminal and typing

nano .bash_profile

Type in the command and then press ctrl+X to exit. Say yes, you want to save the file.

For the second part, "Is there anything else I should know?": You are also going to need to install bcat, a program which allows you to send text to a browser via the command line. You can do this by running

sudo gem install bcat

in the terminal and entering your password.

Now you can view man pages in your browser by typing bman. For example:

bman ls


How fix fonts on external tv look good view? i have a little problem with my mac and external tv (LG 4K).

Macbook air 2012 (intel HD 4000)
LG 43UJ6307

i connect macbook with MiniDisplayPort -> DVI -> HDMI (1.4). by default i cannot set resolution to 2560x1440 (max resolut. is fullHD) but i fix it by switchResX app (but this only app can change this resolution more than fHD). when i set resolution to 2k fonts are vert uggly and readble. when i connect my Desktop pc and resolution to same size fonts are pretty and more understandable. (in 2k and 4k).

i was disable in Settings -> General -> Use LCD Smoothing when available

How can i fix it ?

i saw thereis option for HIDPI but there is only two variants
960x540 (HIDPI)
850x450 (HIDPI)

It sounds like your TV is not correctly connected to the Mac, so that you only have Full HD resolution available instead of the UHD resolution you want.

I would suggest trying with a different cable from mini-DisplyPort directly to HDMI. This should give you the least amount of problems connecting to the TV. Ensure that the cable specifically supports 4k.

I have seen multiple times that even cables sold as HDMI 1.4 cables do not really support 4k with the Mac (I guess some companies deliberately re-label old cables). Specifically I have seen this also with expensive cables, where as a cheap HDMI cable from IKEA works without any problems.


How to stop Chrome from auto-opening App Store? Recently when I visited itunes.apple.com page for some app, Chrome asked me if I would allow opening the product in App Store. I chose "Yes" and I made a stupid mistake of allowing it permanently:

  Remember my choice for links of type App Store.app

Now everytime I visit some iTunes page, App Store app automatically pops up and it's really annoying. Is there I way to turn this behaviour off?

I tried searching in Google Chrome settings, but without success  (chrome://settings/handlers should obviously list these protocols and programs, but my list is empty).

I have found the solution in this comment. The protocol handler in question is macappstores and it needs to be removed from Chrome's list of allowed protocols.

Unfortunately, it is not possible to solve it through UI, so manually editing of Chrome settings file is needed:

Ensure Chrome is closed.
Open a Finder window and use the menu option Go → Go to Folder…
In the dialog that pops up paste in the path ~/Library/Application Support/Google/Chrome/ and click the Go button.
Now assuming you don't use profiles in Chrome you want to look for a folder called Default.

If you use profiles you will be looking for one probably titled Profile X where X is a number (if there are several of them, you must manually identify yours or perform steps below in each).
If you are logged in to Chrome with your Google account, your folder will be probably called Default, too (this was at least my experience).

In that folder you're looking for a file titled Preferences.
Open it in your preferred text editor (TextEdit is enough).
Search for the following text: "macappstores":false. The surrounding text should look similar to this (without newlines and indentation; I have added them just to prettify the text):

"protocol_handler": {
  "excluded_schemes": {
    …
    "javascript":true,
    "macappstores":false,
    "view-source":true,
    …
  }
}

Delete text "macappstores":false, (note to also delete one comma!) and save file.
Done. Next time you visit itunes.apple.com page with Chrome, you will be asked for permission to open App Store once again.


How to change the volume of Skype for Mac, independent from the system volume? After the upgrade to version 7.25 (around April 2016) of Skype for MacOS, the ability to change the conversation volume in a way independent from the system volume seems to have been removed. To be clear, I am referring to the ability to change a Skype conversation audio volume, while leaving the System volume unchanged, so that System's sounds and other applications sounds stay the same.

In the past versions this was done via two entries in "Conversations" menu, or via the two keyboard shortcuts cmd-alt-up_arrow and cmd-alt-down_arrow.

Is there a way to have that functionality back?

The functionality has not been removed, it is only disabled in the default settings.
In order to have it back, go to the Preferences, in the Audio/Video panel, and change the "Speakers" drop down menu from "Same as System" to "Built-in Output (Internal Speakers)" (or any other output you have available, I guess). This gives you back the Skype volume adjustment, independent from the System volume.
Once you change the preferences, the two extra menu entries will also be back in "Conversations" menu.

I have checked this on Skype version 7.49 (274) under MacOS 10.11.2 (El Capitan).


Can the Lagom.nl "Inversion / Pixel Walk" screen test truly indicate a problem on a 13" MacBook Air? My 13" MacBook Air (late-2010 model) shows strong flicker on some of the following "Inversion / Pixel Walk" test images from the LCD test on the site "lagom.nl". Does that truly indicate a quality problem with the screen (as the test says), or is it a normal side effect from the screen technology that any 13" MacBook Air would suffer from?

I do notice that when scrolling say a web page or Pages document, the image noticeably flickers while scrolling. This might be due to the problem this test is supposed to detect, but I'm not sure. Web pages with a striped background where the stripes are just 1 pixel high also show annoying flicker (even when not scrolling).

The test images: http://www.lagom.nl/lcd-test/inversion.php#inversion-all.png

At full screen brightness on my 13" Air, I can see strong flickering on test image 3. Some of the other images show some slight flickering too, but 3 is particularly strong. By "strong" I mean that the flicker is clearly visible even from over 1.5 meters away from the screen (and yes I measured that).

I had a chance to test it out on two store models of the 13" MacBook Air and couldn't see any strong flicker, but I did forget to turn up the screen brightness so I'm not sure. Neither my 20" Cinema Display nor some MacBook (Pro) and PowerBook screens I tested showed any strong flicker. But note that the Air's screen has a higher pixel density, could that affect this test?

And if it's a quality problem, is it something I should / can demand Apple to fix or replace? (I still have a few days of return period left; it might just be a minor nuisance, but do I have to put up with that considering the price of the machine? ...)

Every Mac I've ever owned does this same thing. Don't demand a replacement.

As an aside, monitor flicker is sometimes noticeable because the 60Hz refresh rate is the same frequency as house electrical current. This causes your lights to blink at that rate. This is usually imperceptible, but can be noticeable with a monitor if they get synced up. This is more common with CRTs, but not unheard of with an LCD.

Don't worry yourself over this. Did you notice problems with your display before the test?


External Drive showing only in system profiler I have had a 1TB Western Digital Ultra external hard drive for nearly year.
Out of nowhere it will not show in disk utility but it does show in system profiler. I have a Macbook pro mid 2012 running Yosemite 10.10.1
I have of course tried searching myself but found no clear answers.
I tried verifying the main disk and found nothing wrong. Other external drives work fine with this port and cable. Could it be a hard ware failure? Thanks for the support guys I'm just trying to identify possible causes.

Details given by system profiler:

My Passport 0741:

Product ID: 0x0741
Vendor ID:  0x1058  (Western Digital Technologies, Inc.)
Version:    10.22
Serial Number:  575831314139335031333539
Speed:  Up to 5 Gb/sec
Manufacturer:   Western Digital
Location ID:    0x15200000 / 4
Current Available (mA): 900
Current Required (mA):  896

If disk utility does not even see it the electronics in the drive may have failed. System Profiler may show a drive there but if disk utility cant access it, well... "Houston we have a problem."

If it IS an external you could try unplugging any other USB devices and/or trying another USB port and possibly even a different USB cable. If you can easily open the case without voiding the warranty you could check cabling there as well. But that might be a waste of time. Drive enclosures are pretty reliable these days.

Failing that you might try a 3rd party disk utility. But I am not sanguine about the prospects. If Disk Utility doesn't even see the drive there is a good possibility nothing else will. It may be time for a new drive.


Can a 2011 MacBook Pro handle the new macOS updates? I have a 13" Late 2011 MacBook Pro with the following specs:

2.4 GHz Intel Core i5
4GB RAM
240GB SSD

I just put in the SSD and did an internet recovery, which installed Lion 10.7.5.

From a performance perspective, should I just leave it there? Or will I get any kind of benefits from upgrading to the latest (or a later) macOS?

My concern is I upgrade and then everything is much slower due to the machine not being able to handle the system requirements.

From a performance perspective, should I just leave it there?

No.  For two reasons:

You are running a 7 year old OS that is no longer updated since about October 2014.
4GB RAM is rather inadequate considering today's use cases.

  Or will
  I get any kind of benefits from upgrading to the latest (or a later)
  macOS?

The benefits will be numerous.  The most obvious would be increased application compatibility (i.e. Office 2016 and Phoshop CC just to name two) and increased security with System Integrity Protection (SIP).

Your performance is mostly determined by hardware and you've already taken steps to increase speed with the addition of an SSD.  Increasing your RAM will have an immediate effect by reducing/eliminating the need for swap space.  While you SSD is amazingly fast compared to the HDD it replaced, it's still not as fast as system memory.

You may find this answer relevant:  My Mac is getting really slow, what should I do?

Personally, I have upgraded 2009, 2010 and 2011 MacBook Pros by maxing out the memory and upgrading to at least El Capitan all with excellent results.  There are no loss of performance with the upgrades.


Apple planning to release new Mac Pro? With the Mac Mini getting a new release, what is happening with the Mac Pro (aka the "Trash Can")? It has not had any design changes since 2013, and 5 years later it would seem that Apple would plan to give it a new look. I read some articles that claim how Apple will change the Mac Pro, but are these statements true or can they be backed up by official Apple releases?

A quick search online brings you to either pages that stay on-the-surface of the topic, not going into much detail, or just fan concept drawings. Some places give info that they claim was released by Apple.

What has Apple officially released about there being a new Mac Pro, if they have released anything?

A new modular Mac Pro will ship sometime in 2019, along with a new Apple display.

https://9to5mac.com/2018/04/06/2019-mac-pro/


Recover iCloud data from lost device My friend had an iPhone 6 that was lost recently. The phone is offline now so we couldn't locate it using Find My Phone

She wants to recover the data from the iCloud account connected to the lost device. When she tried to login to the Online portal for iCloud, we were asked to enter a verification code that was being sent to the lost device. So she got a new sim card under the same number, put it in a new phone and tried the SMS option for the verification code. But it seems any sms that is being sent to the number is sent as an to the lost device and not as a normal sms. So we cannot get the verification code now.

Any other way to get the verification code or possibly change the phone number of the iCloud account without access to the device ?

Thanks in advance.

It sounds like the account is protected with two-factor authentication.
According to the FAQ on Apple's information about two-factor authentication

What if I don’t have access to a trusted device or didn't receive a verification code?
If you're signing in and don’t have a trusted device handy that can display verification codes, you can have a code sent to your trusted phone number via text message or an automated phone call instead. Click Didn't Get a Code on the sign in screen and choose to send a code to your trusted phone number.

You mentioned that the phone number is still the same, however, the normal SMS option is not working, so I would try the phone call method instead.
There is more information about how to get a verification code and sign in with two-factor authentication available at https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT204974.
Should these options still not work, you can request account recovery to regain access to your account.


How can I create an Apple ID for China if I live in the U.S.A I don't have a credit card I'm completely broke and I'm not jail token I'm just trying to get a free Chinese app from America ( Plants Vs. Zombies 2 Chinese Version).

You have to make another apple account, there are tons if tutorials for that. When you get to verify or review or something on your iPhone you need to choose the country. You may not find "China" but at the end of the list is China written in Chinese (translate China via google and it works).

When you get to the address you must write like I did:


Key Verification Failed! I was sshing into my iPhone, and I added an app from my computer. Then I switched computers and was going to fix something in it, and it gave me a semi-disconcerting error message...

@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@
@    WARNING: REMOTE HOST IDENTIFICATION HAS CHANGED!     @
@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@
IT IS POSSIBLE THAT SOMEONE IS DOING SOMETHING NASTY!
Someone could be eavesdropping on you right now (man-in-the-middle attack)!
It is also possible that the RSA host key has just been changed.

What exactly has just happened, and why?

The ssh tool stores known remote computer IP address and remote ssh key identification in the ~/.ssh directory.

You can read up on this by consulting the manual page on your mac man ssh or on the internet.

You may need to read the entire article and do some follow up research if this is your first exposure with ssh - but the relevant section for the warning you pasted goes thusly:

ssh automatically maintains and checks a database containing identification for all hosts it has ever
     been used with.  Host keys are stored in ~/.ssh/known_hosts in the user's home directory.  Addition-
     ally, the file /etc/ssh_known_hosts is automatically checked for known hosts.  Any new hosts are auto-
     matically added to the user's file.  If a host's identification ever changes, ssh warns about this and
     disables password authentication to prevent server spoofing or man-in-the-middle attacks, which could
     otherwise be used to circumvent the encryption.

In essence - either the key changed, the host name changed or the IP address changed and ssh is warning you that one or more of these do not match. You can turn off the storing, the warning or clear the cache if you don't care to investigate more. This is a very useful tool for people that ssh into fixed servers and need to know when things like the above change.


How to disable animation while 3 finger swiping to desktop? If I use Ctrl + 2 to get into Desktop 2 it's much faster than swiping three fingers to that desktop.

Is it possible to disable the animation with 3 finger swipe?

The animation speed is proportional to the speed of the swipe. If you swipe fast enough, the animation will be even faster than the one used with Ctrl+2.


Are app settings backed-up (SQLite) I'm developing an app for an iphone. This applicaiton stores almost all its data in a sqlite database. As you known, support for sqlite is not built-in to the swift/objective-c framework (unlike android). Will this data be backed-up. I've read that icloud backs up app settings but would this include the sqlite database too? If it doesn't, is it backed-up using itunes?

If the user chooses to include your app in their iCloud backup, then all the files which the app makes available for backup are backed up, such as files in the app container's Documents folder. Store your database here for it to be backed up.


The iPhone is over 3 times more expensive than the iPod touch, how much more margin is Apple doing on the iPhone? Besides small differences like a minor camera, fundamentally the difference between the iPhone the iPod touch is the GSM/CDMA antenna and I guess more battery to support the antenna.

Yet the iPhone costs $650 and the iPod touch $200 which is quite surprising to me.

Is it because Apple has a bigger margin on the iPhone or are the components of the iPhone really that much more expensive?

edit: my question is not about the concept of demand and offer. To make it more explicit I'll change the question to how much more margin is Apple doing on the iPhone than on the iPod touch? Original Title: "Why is the iPhone over 3 times more expensive than the iPod touch?"

The premise that components are the primary cost to bring a product to market doesn't hold much water for any iOS device.

The most astute quip I have seen was by Horace Dediu on twitter as @asymco:

The iPhone is a salesman hired by the operator to sell mobile broadband service.
He gets a healthy commission because he's very good at it.

I wouldn't confuse the initial price point or ongoing price point with the incremental cost to manufacture and sell a mass market product several years after release. The iPhone 3GS is still for sale and clearly it doesn't cost as much to make now as it did on the day it was released. It's also clear that each device released at the $650 retail price point doesn't really cost that to make. Retail pricing is more of a calculated gamble that the market will bear that price. Only months to years later can the margins be measured.

I think the cart is a bit before the horse as I read your question. Also, I wouldn't say the difference between 3GS to 4 to 4S rear camera is small. The iPod touch rear camera is measurably worse than all of the above so I'm not sure how to address that other than offereing a different opinion.


Where is the error message for a failed podcast download? I am running iTunes 11 on Mountain Lion, and I am subscribed to several podcasts. All of them work except one: With that one, new episodes are found, but every time I try to download one I get an exclamation point next to the name. If I copy the URL from the episode and paste it into a browser, I can download the file so I don't know why iTunes is failing. Is there a way to see an error message? I looked in Console and did not see anything.

Yes, when you are downloading episodes in iTunes 11, this icon shows up:

Click it and you can open your download progress:

If downloading fails, an error message will show up to the right of the status bar with an error code. You can Google this code for info. In my experience, this downloader is very unreliable if you have anything else downloading at the same time, or if you allow simultaneous downloads, although if you allow simultaneous downloads it generally finishes quicker if there are no errors.


Mouse pointer intermittently jumps to corner of screen I recently got two new Macs, an iMac (with magic trackpad) and a MacbookAir (both the most recent models - mid 2011 and both with Lion). They are both suffering from the same issue so I don't think it's hardware based.

Basically approximately every 10 or 15 minutes I'll be trying to move the mouse pointer or click and suddenly the pointer will jump to the corner of the screen (normally the bottom left but sometimes the top right). It might do it three or four times in a row and then not for half an hour.

I wondered if it was some sort of gesture I was accidentally performing (maybe more than one finger is touching the trackpad as I click?) but I don't seem to be able to reproduce it on purpose. It doesn't seem to be tied to one particular app but happens whatever I'm using.

The only mentions of a similar problem I could find online talked about hot corners and I've made sure all hot corners are disabled in system preferences.

Has anyone else run into this? It's driving me absolutely crazy (because when I click in the bottom corner the active app loses focus and I lose my flow!).

Edit: to add further information which may help.

I started to suspect that it might be something to do with applications that I have running all of the time. So I started trying to change things (as much as I can while still being able to work). The first potential culprit was Terminal running in fullscreen mode. So I took it out of fullscreen mode. And for a while it seemed to fix the problem. But unfortunately it is still happening but it appears to be less frequent!

I don't have anything else running fullscreen and I also don't have Dashboard running in a space (the problem still happened when it was).

Other apps that I am prettymuch always running:

Alfred (launcher)
PhpStorm (IDE)
Firefox

Does that help at all?

Edit: Another update.

At the suggestion of @mspasov I checked the logs in Console.app just after it happened. Unfortunately there doesn't appear to be anything that shows up in the logs at the point when the jump happens. I warnings like this:

osascript: Error loading /Library/ScriptingAdditions/Adobe Unit Types.osax/Contents/MacOS/Adobe Unit Types:  dlopen(/Library/ScriptingAdditions/Adobe Unit Types.osax/Contents/MacOS/Adobe Unit Types, 262): no suitable image found.  Did find:
    /Library/ScriptingAdditions/Adobe Unit Types.osax/Contents/MacOS/Adobe Unit Types: no matching architecture in universal wrapper

But that is happening frequently and happens lots of times when the jump doesn't.

Trying to think of software which could be causing the problem it suddenly occurred to me that Growl is also constantly running on both machines which display the problem. However, disabling Growl hasn't stopped the problem from happening...

The mouse problem you are suffering from has to do with OS X polling rates. It has been a known issue for quite some time now. You can read about the issue and a general rundown of some of the mice affected.

Note that contrary to what the author states, the problem still very much exists in OS X Lion. Refer to this post for your specific problem, which identifies CPU cycles as a possible culprit.

As a designer, I found this insufferable. I purchased and tested (even Apple's Magic Mouse) numerous mice only to have them returned to the store. Each mouse worked flawlessly under Windows 7 I might add. I ended up buying a Razor DeathAdder (Black Edition) with ample DPI and polling rate (even though I don't game). It still jumps every know and again when the CPU is busy (I'm running a more than capable Mac mini 2.3 GHz i5 with 8 GB of RAM and an OCZ Vertex2 SSD) but the jumps are so extremely infrequent that they are now a rarity rather than the norm. I should note that this problem occurs using the native OS mouse drivers, the Razor factory driver, or SteerMouse.

Sadly, there is truly no solution, just workarounds (mine was to buy a mouse with industry leading polling rates and DPI.

The simply truth is there is a flaw in OS X and how it handles mice that needs to be fixed. And Lion has not corrected the issue.


Apple's "Mail" does not show when opened I just upgraded to Yosemite and opened my "Mail" programme, and at first everything worked fine but when i closed it and wanted to open it again at a later time the app tells me its open (by showing me the nr. of unread emails and via a small dot beneath the app sign) but it wont show me the inbox..

can someone tell me what happened and/or how i can fix this?

thanks.

This is standard OS X behaviour for apps that can have multiple windows.

Close (by red button or the File->Close menu) closes the front window but leaves the app running. You can still switch to the app. To open a window do File->New Viewer Window or File-> New Message.

To stop the app you need to chose Mail->Quit Mail


iPhone 4 space used but not allocated I've been using the (iPhone) app Flash Drive, which you can use to start a http:// server on your phone and connect to it using Finder and transfer files. I recently transferred a .mkv file of over 1gig to my phone. It took a solid 5mins to complete, and then after it said done, the app's size showed up as zero KB on the phone. Even through Finder, the file shows up as zero KB, so I deleted the files individually via Finder. Now, the space is allocated on my phone, but the files don't show up any where. I connected using my FTP/WebDAV client to see if there are any hidden files (.XXX) taking up space, but nothing, just the same files I see through the app's interface.

Anyone have an idea how I can get the unallocated space back? I restarted my phone using the regular method, but still the space is taken up and I'm deadsure that I didn't put anything else on my phone which could have taken up the space except the two separate incidents with the .mkv file.

Thanks in advance.

I don't know the specifics of that particular App, but allocated space for 3rd party applications in the iPhone is restricted to themselves. That means that Application 1 cannot read Application 2 data. This security measure greatly limits the ways we have to share data among applications (and has made Dropbox very popular).

Given the above, it's very likely that the app Flash Drive uses its own space for storing the file(s) you upload (because it doesn't really have any other place to put it unless you jailbreak your device).

With that said, deleting the application from the phone and (just in case) fully restarting it, should recover the space. You can later re-copy the application to your phone by connecting it to iTunes again.

In order to delete it, make sure it's closed (i.e. not running), touch and hold the App's icon until it wiggles and touch the (X) on the corner of its icon. It will ask you if you want to delete the App and the Data (or warn you about it). Go ahead. Then shutdown your phone and restart it again.


How to activate Apple Storage I am paying for 50 GB of icloud storage. It shows up in my settings, but I can't access it. I am still deleting photos so I can store everything on the 5 GB I have. Have spent hours researching this but can only find others with the same problem. No answers from Apple.

I would logout of iCloud and log back in


In OSX App Store exist a update for a app that is not installed, and can't be I have installed a app with a different ID/Store, but is not longer in my system. However, the Appstore still insist in update it, yet is not in purchased list. The error in spanish say:

  La actualización no está disponible con este ID de Apple

  Esta actualización no está disponible para este ID de Apple; puede que
  la comprase un usuario distinto o que se haya reembolsado o cancelado
  el artículo.

Is say the update is not available with this ID (and I have tried both: I don't have use any other in my system, ever).

The appstore bother me with the updating of it all the time, still can't be neither reinstalled or ignored...

What I can do?

Try this.

Quit App Store
Use Activity Monitor to quit the following processes

storeaccountd
storeassetd
storedownloadd
storeinappd

On Terminal delete the following folders:

/Users/jj/Library/Caches/storeaccountd
/Users/jj/Library/Caches/storeassetd
/Users/jj/Library/Caches/storedownloadd
/Users/jj/Library/Caches/storeinappd

Restart app store and download!


Mail app freezes after opening? Ok, let me start by saying that I just started using a Mac about two months ago.

Yesterday I was doing something that kicked off about 500 emails to my email account.  When I tried to open my mail app, it pops up and then the cursor turns to a beachball that spins.  After this I have to do a force quit to get out.

I tried looking at the logs in the console, but it appears to be a giant stack trace that is pretty much meaningless to me.  Any suggestions on where to start to get this resolved?

Below is the first little chunk under "User Diagnostic Reports" (it goes on for quite a while after that):

  Process:         Mail [242] Path:
  /Applications/Mail.app/Contents/MacOS/Mail Identifier:
  com.apple.mail Version:         5.3 (1283) Build Info:
  Mail-1283000000000000~1 Code Type:       X86-64 (Native) Parent
  Process:  launchd [219]

  Date/Time:       2012-12-04 12:33:14.223 -0800 OS Version:      Mac OS
  X 10.7.5 (11G63) Report Version:  9

  Crashed Thread:  0  Dispatch queue: com.apple.main-thread

  Exception Type:  EXC_BAD_ACCESS (SIGSEGV) Exception Codes:
  0x000000000000000d, 0x0000000000000000

  VM Regions Near 0:
  -->
      __TEXT                 0000000107e31000-00000001081e5000 [ 3792K] r-x/rwx SM=COW  /Applications/Mail.app/Contents/MacOS/Mail

  Application Specific Information: objc_msgSend() selector name:
  isKindOfClass: objc[242]: garbage collection is OFF

  Thread 0 Crashed:: Dispatch queue: com.apple.main-thread 0
  libobjc.A.dylib                   0x00007fff87ee5110 objc_msgSend_vtable4
  + 16 1   com.apple.AppKit                 0x00007fff88d94c16 -[NSView _endEditingIfFirstResponderIsASubview] + 92 2   com.apple.AppKit                0x00007fff88d948aa -[NSView removeFromSuperview] + 128 3
  com.apple.mail                    0x0000000107e8a112 0x107e31000 + 364818
  4   com.apple.mail                    0x0000000107e887d1 0x107e31000 +
  358353 5   com.apple.mail                 0x0000000107eafbec
  0x107e31000 + 519148 6   com.apple.mail
    0x0000000107eafb9d 0x107e31000 + 519069 7   com.apple.mail
    0x0000000107eaf699 0x107e31000 + 517785 8   com.apple.Foundation
    0x00007fff8b560ae1 -[NSBlockOperation main] + 116 9
  com.apple.Foundation              0x00007fff8b5276b4
  -[NSOperationInternal start] + 705 10  com.apple.Foundation             0x00007fff8b53a912 __NSOQSchedule_block_invoke_2 + 124 11
  libdispatch.dylib                 0x00007fff89f26a82
  _dispatch_call_block_and_release + 18 12  libdispatch.dylib               0x00007fff89f288f2 _dispatch_main_queue_callback_4CF + 308 13
  com.apple.CoreFoundation          0x00007fff81457e7c __CFRunLoopRun +
  1724 14  com.apple.CoreFoundation         0x00007fff81457486
  CFRunLoopRunSpecific + 230 15  com.apple.HIToolbox
    0x00007fff883ff2bf RunCurrentEventLoopInMode + 277 16
  com.apple.HIToolbox               0x00007fff8840656d
  ReceiveNextEventCommon + 355 17  com.apple.HIToolbox
    0x00007fff884063fa BlockUntilNextEventMatchingListInMode + 62 18
  com.apple.AppKit                  0x00007fff88c82779 _DPSNextEvent + 659
  19  com.apple.AppKit                  0x00007fff88c8207d -[NSApplication
  nextEventMatchingMask:untilDate:inMode:dequeue:] + 135 20
  com.apple.AppKit                  0x00007fff88c7e9b9 -[NSApplication run]
  + 470 21  com.apple.AppKit                0x00007fff88efaeac NSApplicationMain + 867 22  com.apple.mail
    0x0000000107f09300 0x107e31000 + 885504

I ended up deleting the email account and re-adding it.  Once I did that everything fired right up.

Hope this helps someone...


Item "is in use by another application". How can I find out which one? In Finder the file VirtualBox_Uninstall.tool is greyed out.

I want to delete this file, but I'm prompted by a message that the file is currently in use:

Currently, I have no clue what is the cause of this. Therefore I want to know what other application is using it. How do I find this out?

The cause is usually a copy job that unexpectedly died or some process that has an open file handle on that file. You can check which process opened which files with lsof | grep "filename". This will not necessarily yield a result. If the issue isn't resolved after a logout or even a restart you still can continue at that dialog and remove the file.


Settings for CalendarAgent, Mingler and iCalExternalSync services I have the dreaded issue with recurring sync service processes wreaking havoc on my MacBook Pro with O S X 10.9 Mavericks and stealing my CPU cycles for no apparent good reason. Usually with a 3 month hiatus, strangely enough. It might run most of the times, but it doesn't interfere with heavy workloads in other apps, like music production software.

Could you please advice where and how to edit the SyncServices of OS X 10.9 Mavericks, so that all spawned sync processes like Mingler and iCalExternalSync are given really low priorities and/or are set to only run at certain time slots? I'm growing really tired of these processes that run even as I've inactivated most accounts, except for email. No Exchange servers to my knowledge are involved.

It would also be acceptable to just force these processes to not run when I don't need them running, so I can have my CPU back.

As Mingler belong to the SyncServer process and iCalExternalSync belongs to CalendarAgent I've identified likely setting files in com.apple.syncservices.SyncServer.plist and com.apple.CalendarAgentLauncher.plist both in /System/Library/LaunchAgents/, but I see no clear setting to make here in order to stop these processes from running all the time and use more CPU than they deserve. Most likely I need to find a good setting with the effect I want. What could a good setting be to try for this?

It's a bit of a workaround, but these unload commands seem to do the trick. I put them in a script that I run when I need more of my CPU:

#!/bin/bash
launchctl unload /System/Library/LaunchAgents/com.apple.AddressBook.SourceSync.plist
launchctl unload /System/Library/LaunchAgents/com.apple.CalendarAgent.plist
launchctl unload /System/Library/LaunchAgents/com.apple.syncdefaultsd.plist

For when processes are acceptable, replace "unload" with "load"


How to tether a 2014 MacBook Pro 15" Retina to two Dell Ultra HD 4k 27-Inch Screen LED-Lit Monitors (P2715Q)? I've attempted to connect my 2014 MacBook Pro 15" Retina laptop to two, 27" Dell Ultra HD 4k screens via OWC Thunderbolt 2 Dock, however, I was only able to tether one Dell screen instead of two; I've tried several combinations, which include the following:

MacBook > Thunderbolt > [OWC](HDMI to Dell_1 + Thunderbolt to Dell_2)
MacBook > HDMI > [OWC](Thunderbolt to Dell_1 + Thunderbolt to Dell_2)
MacBook > Thunderbolt > [OWC](Thunderbolt to Dell_1)+(HDMI from Dell_1 to Dell_2)

Apparently, Hengedock would be a great solution for tethering two 27" Apple Retina displays but I don't think the Hengedock is compatible with subject Dell monitors; I'm currently standing-by for my inquiry placed with customer-service.  I'd appreciate any insight or recommendations for OWC, Hengedock, or any other successful implementations-thank you!

It doesn't appear that your MBP is capable of driving 2 4k displays with the Macbook's primary display working (see Graphics and Video support):

https://support.apple.com/kb/SP704?locale=en_US

Also the OWC Dock isn't capable of driving 2 4k displays so even if your MBP is capable of driving the displays you'll need to use the HDMI port or one of the other Thunderbolt 2 ports to drive the second display:

http://www.owcdigital.com/products/thunderbolt/thunderbolt-2-dock-overview

One thing you may be able to try is to close the Macbook to turn off it's primary display, thus freeing up resources to try to handle both 4k displays.


Large amount of disk used by "System". Time machine not to blame. What's taking up so much space? So, I found a number of threads related to System files on Macs taking up to much space, and it seems for most people they are related to Time Machine snap shots. However, when I run sudo tmutil listlocalsnapshots / it returns nothing.

Here's what it show in the Storage tab of About my Mac:

The gray bar is labelled "System" and it's taking up nearly 200 Gb of space.

I downloaded OmniDiskSweeper to get an idea of what's going on, and this is where it gets weirder.

In the drive list, it says 223 Gb are being used, but after sizing everything it says only 95 Gb are being used, and System files are just under 7 Gb.

What gives? Is there another place Time Machine snapshots could be hiding. Is there something else that would be taking up space, but is being missed by OmniDiskSweeper somehow?

Mac details:

UPDATE: Daisy Disk has revealed a file /private/var/log/puppetlabs/puppet/puppet.log that is 121.6 Gb (!!?)

Is this safe to delete? I assume so, given that it's a log.

UPDATE 2: Also, how can I even delete this if it's okay to do so? I can't even get into the directory (sudo does nothing, and sudo chown doesn't allow me to cd into either...)

I don't think TimeMachine backups are stored elsewhere but on my machine, the Library folder takes up 100 GB! It may be included in the system size but OmniDiskSweeper separates it out. I've asked about the library folder being so large but didn't get an adequate response. I don't know how to safely reduce the size of that folder.

You should check the results of OmniDiskSweeper to see if your Library folder is taking up a lot of space. You have 2 library folders. Check the one in the Users/yourname directory.


MacBook Pro (Mid 2012) trackpad delay / failing I have a MacBook Pro (13-inch, Mid 2012) and some days ago I realize that the trackpad mechanical click sometimes not click. I mean, the trackpad is pressed but the click not work on the first time, and I need to press for the second time works fine.

When this happen, if I to click slowly works too. This may be a hardware issue? I'm asking that because the tap click works everytime.

This could also be a setting in Trackpad settings within System Preferences. Look for 'Trackpad' in System Preferences (second row of icons, fifth from left). There is a checkbox for 'Silent Clicking'. Check to see if that has been checked on by accident.


How to lower the volume of Skype sound effects? Skype Version 7.36 (507), OSX Mavericks on 2011 iMac

Skype's sound effects are insanely loud.  They play at the volume of the overall Mac, which is up full and should be.  But everything else on the computer is an appropriate volume (system sounds, browser, etc.), Skype is just way WAY too loud.

This is only its chat and related sound effects, NOT calls.  Has nothing whatsoever to do with voice calls.

Skype does have its own volume control, but it also does absolutely nothing, both for the sound effects AND calls.  Has no effect whatsoever.

Is there any way to quiet just Skype down?

EDIT: Another observation in case it's somehow relevant - changing Skype's audio devices in preferences also does nothing.  All sound effects (non-call related) always come out the internal speaker regardless of what device I select.

What you can do is to disable the sound effects, for each individual "event" (incoming call, new message received, etc).
Or, even better, you can associate to each event a different sound effect, maybe with a different volume.

To do this, you need to go to the preferences, and choose the "Notifications" panel. Then, you choose each individual "Event" for which you want to turn off the sound (via the first drop-down menu), and turn it off by means of the "Play sound" check button.
You can also choose a different sound effect (maybe with a different volume) by choosing a different audio file. This is done using the drop-down menu next to "Play sound", and selecting the last option: "Add/Remove...".
You can then select your file using the "+" button on the bottom-left corner of the small pop-up window.
To have different volumes you will need to create/edit the audio files, and change their volume, before you associate them to the Skype events.


MacBook Pro not recognizing USB ethernet adapter in macOS, but does in Bootcamp I have a 2015 MacBook Pro.  I recently moved and don't yet have a Wi-Fi router, so I have to use an ethernet cable.  To do this I'm using a USB ethernet adapter.

When I plug it in Bootcamp automatically detects it and connects to the internet.  However, when I switch over to macOS, it doesn't detect anything. I've tried to manually set it up, but even then it acts like nothing is there.

I don't understand why I can connect on one OS but not the other on the same machine.

How can I troubleshoot this?

If it's the standard Apple ethernet adapter, I've run into this problem on a couple of different MacBooks. There are a few different things you can try in this thread on Apple's message boards, but the one that usually works for me is this one:

in System Preferences > Network, create a new network location
delete all the network devices from the list on the left
re-add the ethernet adapter device
configure the rest of the new location as required, and use it instead of the one you were previously using

(Even with that working, I still have another annoying issue with the adapter: if I plug it in while the laptop is asleep, it's not detected when it wakes. Have never found a solution for that.)


Understanding active, inactive, free and swap memory allocation this is a conceptual question that came up from an issue I have.

I've been monitoring memory usage with iStat Pro and Activity Monitor for some weeks, since my MacBook Pro (OSX 10.8.4 Mountain Lion 8Gb RAM) became slower to change between applications and started to take some seconds to show me text when I start typing, or even take more than 5 seconds to let me put password when reopening my (turned on) laptop.

I've been reading some topics about this, and generally when I close Safari and Chrome and reopen them, it gets better, although sometimes I need to purge on Terminal to free up some memory, but actually I don't have a good idea about the way OSX manages its memory.

As far as I understand, Active Memory is for tasks that are currently being executed, Inactive Memory is for closed apps that may be potentially reopened, Free Memory is fully available memory, but what about Wired Memory, Swap Memory, VM size and Page ins / outs I see on Activity Monitor?

Since OSX comes pre-configured to have optimal performance (theoretically), I don't really like to purge and I don't want to change memory swapping configurations before having a good understand about what I am doing.

Can anyone better explain to me how these memories works out and make some suggestion for my issues? Specially the one with the password, If it helps, I noticed it became tougher when I started to use WiFi connection and turned WiFi permanently on.

EDIT: After OS X 10.9 Mavericks, the password issue has disappeared either on WiFi or not. Now I can open the laptop and immediately start typing my password and it accepts.

Wired memory is memory that the Operating System has reserved for itself, and it cannot be written to disk.

VM Memory is the amount of space on your disk that the system has allocated for virtual memory. This is slow, and one of the main reasons why running low of free RAM will bring your system to a crawl.

Page ins / outs are when RAM memory is written to the disk (out) and when it is copied back from the disk into RAM (in).

Swap is how much of the VM Memory the system is actually using.

This, and more, can also be found here: http://www.interrupt19.com/2009/06/15/os-x-memory-usage-explained/ and here: http://support.apple.com/kb/HT1342?viewlocale=en_US&locale=en_US

Make sure you have enough free space on your disk for the OS to swap as needed. A good rule of thumb is that 10% of your total disk capacity should always be free. Furthermore, have you noticed any particular apps giving you trouble? Those tools you're using can be powerful for narrowing down what is causing your problem. Also, if you are running Chrome and Safari simultaneously, I suggest you only run them one at a time, as they both tend to be memory-hungry in my experience.


Unable to modify administrative settings after El Capitan upgrade After upgrading to El Capitan from Yosemite, my main administration account was removed. After recovering it by forcing the first time setup to run again, I am now unable to change system settings. For example, if I open up "Users and Groups" and click the lock to make changes, it prompts for my password. I enter my password (that has admin privileges) and it accepts it, but the lock status doesn't change. I've also upgraded XCode to v7, and it prompts for my password to accept the license agreement. If I enter it incorrectly, I get the shaky box, but if I enter it correctly, it accepts it, but the license agreement box doesn't go away.
I've attempted to resolve this by turning off SIP and by using the "resetpassword" utility on both the Root Admin and my user's account and neither option has worked.
I'm out of ideas here- hoping one of you can help. Thanks in advance.
Edit
So I ran dscacheutil and shows two entries for root user. Does that mean anything?

If you are using Centrify, then this thread led me to this Apple forums answer: let the system rebuild the authentication database:

sudo mv /var/db/auth.db /var/db/auth.db.old

and restart. This fixed all the related privilege escalation failures for me and I seem to recall a Centrify upgrade was supposed to be done before the Mavericks upgrade too.

It has not, however, re-enabled network user logon. The check-box to allow network user logon is missing from Users & Groups still.


Remove all associations with Brackets I just downloaded Brackets (web development IDE) and it associated lots of unnecessary file formats like .json that I would normally open using Sublime. Is there any way I can remove all file associations with Brackets and assign them to Sublime or at least, to TextEdit?

Here's how to do it with any file (first method):

Highlight and right-click the file you want to change the default app for
Mouse over Open with... then click Other
Choose the desired application (i.e. Sublime) in the Choose Application prompt
Tick the checkbox Always Open With, then press Open (then close the application)

Alternatively:

Highlight and right-click the file you want to change the default app for
Select Get Info
Select Open with... in the window that just opened
Choose the desired application (from the drop-down list or Other)

If you are using Other, make sure to check Always Open With before pressing Add.

Ensure that the default application is displayed in the small box (as seen below, with Archive Utility)
Select Change All... to apply it to all files of the same type.


How do I make a custom ringtone for my iPhone using iTunes 10 only? I'd like to use a snippet of a song I have purchased as a ringtone for my iPhone. Is this possible using only iTunes?

I have found a few guides on the web, but I can't seem to complete this task following these guides. I might be misunderstanding something, or the guides are out-of-date, or incomplete.

I am looking for a solution that will be useful for an extended period of time, for others who see this question. There are similar older questions, but I'm interested in iTunes version 10 on the Mac.

As far as I'm concerned (this has worked for my iPhone, and is covered in this guide as well), it works like this:

In Import Settings, choose the AAC Encoder.
Go to the library and right-click the song you want to use. Select Info, and then the Options tab.
Here, set a time period using the Start and Stop markers. This period shouldn't exceed 40 seconds.

Now, let's convert it to the appropriate format.

Click OK, and right-click the song again. Select "Create AAC Version".
Locate the newly created AAC file ("Show in Finder" works on a Mac). It should reside in the same folder as the original, or in your iTunes library. Its extension will be .m4a.
Rename the extension from m4a to m4r.

Clean up and re-import:

Remove the AAC file from your iTunes library (do not move it to the Recycling Bin/Trash though)
Re-import the m4r file by dragging it into iTunes
Drag the newly imported file to your iPhone


Copying applications from applications folder to external and reinstalling osx Is it possible to copy all my applications from the applications folder onto an external, format my mac, reinstall OS X and finally copy the applications back into the applications folder for installing them?

Will that work? I am asking because my macbook seems to be behaving in a very odd manner, has become excessively sluggish and is preventing me from recording anything in logic.. I have tried the usual freeing up space, clean desktop, fixing permissions, verifying and repairing disk as well as resetting pram and making sure I have all the latest software and firmware updates. The macbook is only 8 months old and is running Lion with 8gb of ram, I really cannot understand what is wrong with it. Even when trying to watch a movie, the player will get serious audio/video synchronisation issues and I noticed that every time my wifi is on the fans speed up like a plane taking off. I even checked and it is clean from any dust. I am perplexed :(

If anyone could help me please, I would greatly appreciate it.
Thanks in advance!

Sure. That's definitely possible. I would recommend you use Time Machine to create a backup of your computer, that way you wouldn't lose any data. Also, because you're using 'Apple's way', its guaranteed to work better

Backing it up: Time Machine
Time Machine, by default, will backup your entire computer. However, you can choose to exclude certain folders from the backup:

In Time Machine preferences you can click the Options button to adjust settings. A sheet similar to this appears when you click Options:

This sheet allows you to exclude files, folders, or entire volumes from being backed up. You might want to do this to avoid filling up your backup drive.

Restoring it: Migration Assistant
Then, using OS X Recovery, you can do an Erase and Install. Once that is complete, you can use Migration Assistant to bring across certain information, like just your Apps, or perhaps your user information as well.

This would be the preferred way as it ensures just in case, you wont lose anything you explicitly want to and Apple system applications are reinstalled correctly.

Resources:

HT1427 Mac Basics: Time Machine
HT4718 OS X: About OS X Recovery
PH11273 OS X Mountain Lion: Erase and reinstall OS X
HT4889 How to use Migration Assistant to transfer files from another Mac


Is it possible to tell if a unjailbroken phone has been jailbroken in the past? I heard that a phone can be jailbroken and then "un-jailbroken." Is it possible to tell if an "un-jailbroken" phone has been jailbroken in the past?

If the device has been restored(how you "unjailbreak" a device), there is no way to find out if the device has been jailbroken in the past.


Auto-Unlock on a manually Continuity-enabled Mac? I have a brand new Apple Watch Series 1, an iPhone 6 running iOS 10.0.1 public beta, and an early 2011 MacBook Pro with an upgraded AirPort card and Continuity Activation Tool running the latest Sierra public beta. Handoff and AirDrop and other Continuity features have been working fine lately between my phone and my laptop, but how do I get Auto Unlock to work? I tried following these steps for enabling Auto Unlock in general, but System Preferences isn't showing me an "Allow your Apple Watch to unlock your Mac" checkbox. How can I make that box appear? Thanks!

What hardware is required for Auto Unlock?
According to Apple’s macOS Sierra beta 2 release notes, Auto Lock requires a 2013 or later Mac. That means that even 2012 Macs with Bluetooth 4.0 don’t officially support Auto Unlock.
What software is required for Auto Unlock?
To use Auto Unlock, you’ll need to be running macOS Sierra Developer Preview Seed 2. You’ll also need to have the watchOS 3 beta installed on your Apple Watch. Apple indicates that the latest version of watchOS 3 (beta 2) needs to be installed, but I was able to get Auto Unlock working with watchOS 3 beta 1.
You’ll also need to have Two-Factor Authentication established for the iCloud account associated with your Mac and Apple Watch.
How do I set up Two-Factor Authentication?
Two-Factor Authentication can be set up via the Apple ID website. Beware that a small number of users are complaining of being locked out of their accounts when enabling 2FA on the developer beta.
Keep in mind that Two-Factor Authentication differs from Two-Step Authentication. You must be using Two-Factor Authentication for Auto Unlock to work. If you need assistance, a full guide for enabling Two-Factor Authentication.
Once 2FA is enabled, Apple encourages users to do the following:

On your Mac, open System Preferences →  iCloud, and click the Account
Details button. Click the Security tab, and make sure Two-Factor
Authentication is on. On your iPhone, open Settings →  iCloud and tap
on your name to reveal account details. Tap on the Password and
Security item, and make sure sure Two-Factor Authentication is on.
On your iPhone, open Watch →  General →  Apple ID, and verify your
Apple ID is showing.
How do I enable Auto Unlock?

Enabling Auto Unlock is handled on your Mac via System Preferences → Security & Privacy.
I’m not seeing the Auto Unlock setting in System Preferences
After performing a clean install, it can take minutes for the Allow your Apple Watch to unlock your Mac checkbox to display in System Preferences → Security and Privacy → General on your Mac. This delay occurs while your devices are iCloud pairing. If you performed an upgrade instead of a clean install, you should not experience any delays.
If you’re still having problems getting Auto Unlock to work, try rebooting all three devices (Mac, Apple Watch, paired iPhone). Also, double-check to make sure you have Two-Factor Authentication enabled, not Two-Step Authentication.


Can I uninstall the Messages Beta? I'm thinking about trying the Messages Beta on OS X Lion. I'm wondering if I will be able to uninstall it if I don't want to use it anymore. If so, will I be able to use iChat again?

Yes.

In the Messages menu, there's an option to uninstall the beta. Apple just messes with the App bundle to add support for the iMessage protocol. The underlying app is pretty much the same.

See this AskDifferent Answer and this post which it references for more information.


Unable to install Xcode on a freshly-installed OS X Lion OK, so I own 2 macs :

a MacBook Pro (running 10.8 with the latest Xcode on it)
an iMac (running 10.6 on one partition - Xcode installed and all - , and 10.7 - just installed - on another partition)

Note : all of Xcode versions + OSes have been purchased via the App Store

Now, here's my problem :

I'm signing in with my Apple ID
I'm going to My Purchases
Xcode is obviously there, BUT with the "Install" option, not the "Download" option
I'm clicking on "Install", it seems to be working for some time and then it either stops working or it throws an error message along these lines : "Something went wrong. Unknown error code."

I need your help guys. That's why I partitioned my iMac's drive in the first place : to be able to debug under 10.7 as well (see here: Install 2 different OS X versions on the same machine/hdd ).

So, any ideas???

Hint : I've also tried to find any instances of "Install Xcode" installers on my MacBook Pro, hoping that there would be some left (appropriate for 10.7 that is)... but unfortunately all I've found didn't seem to want to work under 10.7. So I'm stuck - I don't think there's any other way I could manage to re-install it, other than through the App Store, and the... App Store doesn't seem to be working... :S

I have a similar setup, but I've got 10.6 on one partition, 10.7 on another and 10.8 on yet another partition.  When the Mac App Store looks for installs, it will look at all the partitions for installed apps.  I think that is your problem: it is already finding Xcode on your 10.6 partition.

Here is how I solved it and how I recommend you to do it as well:

Unmount your 10.6 partition after you boot into your 10.7 partition

If you want to do this automatically, you have to edit the file:

/etc/fstab

Inside of /etc/fstab, you need to place your partition's UDID like so:

UUID=68613ECB-3492-3B8B-9FFF-55FB1F30A32B       none    hfs     ro,noauto

noauto means don't automount it.

To find the UUID of your drive, launch Disk Utility, select the partition and then press the Info toolbar button.  It will show you the UUID listed as Universal Unique Identifier.

Then reboot and you should find that your 10.6 partition is automatically not mounted.

At this point, the Mac App Store should look for Xcode, not be able to find it, and then allow you to install Xcode properly.


iPhone 6 and iPhone X: Mail app not showing attachments correctly I have been encountering issues with both an iPhone 6 and an iPhone X using Apple Mail app. When receiving multiple automated reports from SRSS, the attachments will clone from other, similar reports.

On other phones, this behavior does not seem to happen, as it does not seem to happen on PCs. This lead me to believe it being an issue with iOS/Mail app. The reports are sent in HTML Web archive format through e-mail.

I have researched on the Internet regarding this issue, and mostly I found people reporting this issue, but I haven't found many solutions.

I would like to know what could be done about this. If possible, I would rather not install a secondary application for work e-mails on these phones but if this is the only option then I'd do it.

As the Internet search has yielded that the problem is also being faced by others, but hasn't yielded any solution, it's most likely a bug with the stock Mail app.

A likely resolution would be to use the official email client app from the email service provider (Outlook in this case). Official app is more likely to work bug free compared to Apple's Mail app.

The stock Mail app can be easily uninstalled on devices running iOS 10 and later as outline in this Apple Support document:

Remove built-in Apple apps from the Home screen on your iOS 10 device or Apple Watch.


Can I have multiple wifi networks on a single MacBook Pro? [[GoPro]] I'm looking to connect three GoPro cameras at the same time. Each GoPro needs its own network, and my computer needs to access all of them at the same time. Also, my computer needs a fourth wireless network of its own for accessing and uploading images to the internet.

Can I do this? Is it possible to have multiple connections going on at once? Is there a USB wireless adapter I could buy that would accept multiple wifi cards?

EDIT: I need to access both GoPros at the same time. If I have gopro1 and gopro2, each with their own wifi configuration, I can only access one network at a time via my computer's dropdown wifi menu. Is there any way to connect to multiple GoPro networks at the same time? I need my computer to have it's own network so I can pull photos from each GoPro simultaneously.

Assuming those cameras work like the ones I've used, all you do is connect your computer and the cameras to the same Wi-Fi router, and you'll be able to do everything normally, on one network. You should never have to create multiple physical networks like that unless you're setting up a corporate network, with multiple access points.


Remote manage an iPad for a friend I need to help a friend who has an iPad. Talking live on Skype and sharing iMessages, even screenshots, is not cutting it. On a computer I can do with the likes of TeamViewer.

This thread here on Apple.StackExchange offers some suggestions, but none of these apps like MobileIron etc do what I want: to control the screen of the target iPad, install apps, configure apps, etc. Just like TeamViewer -- full remote control.

I am NOT looking for a corporate "profile management" type thing. I need to fully control iPad screen of a friend.

Any recommendations would be super.

I'm afraid this is not possible, at least with a non-jailbroken device.
iOS Apps are built as SandBoxes at install time, which means that each App has access only to its own files, and very limited privileges with other of the device's services, such as the phone, sending emails, etc.
Apple states it like this:

For security reasons, iOS places each app (including its preferences and data) in a sandbox at install time. A sandbox is a set of fine-grained controls that limit the app’s access to files, preferences, network resources, hardware, and so on. As part of the sandboxing process, the system installs each app in its own sandbox directory, which acts as the home for the app and its data.
Important: The purpose of a sandbox is to limit the damage that a compromised app can cause to the system. […]


Can't boot up mac stuck in 'No Bootable Device error' Mac Book Pro Late 2011 I have a MacBook Pro 13-Inch Late 2011 (MacbookPro 8,1) with Bootcamp installed.I have been using Mac OS High Sierra and Windows 10. Once When I boot into Windows 10, an error shows up 'No Bootable Device — Insert Boot Disk and Press Any Key'. Then I have tried to change the startup disk, enter into recovery mode, safe mode, inserted Mac OS bootable disk ,Windows bootable disk. Nothing worked and I have even removed the Hard disk.Still stuck on the same error. I can't do anything on my MBP. I have tried all the startup key combinations and none of that worked with both inbuilt keyboard and external keyboard.

I would like to fix this MBP but Holding option key for changing startup disk or holding other key combination for Recovery doesn't work on internal keyboard or external keyboard.

What are the next steps to fix this?

This is a rare case when no keyboard works to enter the test / reset / restore screens one of two things is happening.

The Main logic board is not able to process keyboard input from any source - you need a repair to the internals.
The USB bus that sends keyboard signals is broken or the physical keyboard is issuing key down commands so fast that the processing is unable to read legitimate key presses. You need a repair to the internals.

Both paths lead to a hardware issue if you can't bring an external USB keyboard to get the system to let you attempt to choose an OS or start internet recovery. There's no third way to get in since you would need the OS to boot and a network to ssh in via a working system and keyboard.


Downloading Movies on Google Play in HD I can't download Google Play Movies in HD on my iPad Pro.  It streams it in HD, but it won't download it in HD, and I can't find a setting that chooses one way or the other.

Download videos to your iPad:

Make sure your device is connected to Wi-Fi or your mobile network.
Open the Google Play Movies & TV app Play Movies .
Tap Menu  Library.
Next to the movie or TV episode, you’d like to download, touch the download icon .

Note: To remove or stop a download in progress, tap the download icon again.

Source: Google Support


Is there a GUI SSH client for OS X? I know that SSH from the command line is easy enough, but would like to give my students that use OS X a GUI option.

Is there a PuTTY equivalent for the Mac?

If you are looking for something that keeps track of servers/connections via a GUI, Terminal.app will already do that for you. Launch it and then from the menu select Shell > New Remote Connection. This will give you a connections manager window.


Can my early 2008 MacBook run Mavericks? I have an early 2008 MacBook with a 2.4 GHz Intel Core 2 Duo and 4 GB of 667 MHz DDR2 RAM running OS X 10.5.8. Can I upgrade to OS X Mavericks? I realize that my early 2008 MacBook isn't on the list, but I have additional memory. Thank you!

No you can't, if your device is not on the list. The minimum RAM required for Maverics is 2GB. Increased RAM will not help you.

By the way here are the supported devices

To install Mavericks, you need one of these Macs:

 - iMac (Mid-2007 or later)
 - MacBook (13-inch Aluminum, Late 2008), (13-inch, Early 2009 or later)
 - MacBook Pro (13-inch, Mid-2009 or later),
 - MacBook Pro (15-inch or 17-inch, Mid/Late 2007 or later)
 - MacBook Air (Late 2008 or later)
 - Mac mini (Early 2009 or later)
 - Mac Pro (Early 2008 or later)
 - Xserve (Early 2009)
Your Mac also needs:

OS X Mountain Lion, Lion, or Snow Leopard v10.6.8 already installed

 - 2 GB or more of memory
 - 8 GB or more of available space


Does installing a second hard drive in my Mac Mini 2011 void my Apple hardware warranty? I just installed a second hard drive, and I'm wondering if that voids my warranty.

Apple's policy has traditionally been that you can install RAM, drives and PCIe cards (on a Mac Pro), without voiding your warranty. However if there's evidence that you broke something during the install, they won't cover that, nor the 3rd party parts (naturally).


I have an Apple keyboard that isn't recognized by my Mac I have the wired Apple keyboard that has the numeric keypad.
When I try to use the command or control keys in Cs4....they don't work.
When I checked the keyboard input area in my preferences..it shows a keyboard that looks nothing like the one I'm using.
How can I get my Mac to recognize my keyboard.
Thanks for your help.

Have you tried re-running the Keyboard Setup Assistant? First, get macOS to "forget" your keyboard:

sudo rm /Library/Preferences/com.apple.keyboardtype.plist

and then reboot your Mac. If it still doesn't recognize the keyboard, you can try manually running the setup assistant

sudo /System/Library/CoreServices/KeyboardSetupAssistant.app/Contents/MacOS/Keyboard SetupAssistant

to see if it detects any keyboards it's not sure about.


Python 2.6 and 2.7 in Mac OS X In my /usr/bin, the following is the result of ls -al python*:

-rwxr-xr-x  1 root  wheel  66480 Dec  3 01:36 python
-rwxr-xr-x  5 root  wheel    925 Aug 22  2015 python-config
lrwxr-xr-x  1 root  wheel     75 Oct 17 21:26 python2.6 -> ../../System/Library/Frameworks/Python.framework/Versions/2.6/bin/python2.6
lrwxr-xr-x  1 root  wheel     82 Oct 17 21:26 python2.6-config -> ../../System/Library/Frameworks/Python.framework/Versions/2.6/bin/python2.6-config
lrwxr-xr-x  1 root  wheel     75 Oct 17 21:26 python2.7 -> ../../System/Library/Frameworks/Python.framework/Versions/2.7/bin/python2.7
lrwxr-xr-x  1 root  wheel     82 Oct 17 21:26 python2.7-config -> ../../System/Library/Frameworks/Python.framework/Versions/2.7/bin/python2.7-config
-rwxr-xr-x  1 root  wheel  66480 Dec  3 01:35 pythonw
lrwxr-xr-x  1 root  wheel     76 Oct 17 21:26 pythonw2.6 -> ../../System/Library/Frameworks/Python.framework/Versions/2.6/bin/pythonw2.6
lrwxr-xr-x  1 root  wheel     76 Oct 17 21:26 pythonw2.7 -> ../../System/Library/Frameworks/Python.framework/Versions/2.7/bin/pythonw2.7

There are three: python, python2.6, python2.7. What are they and why do I have three? Can I delete some of them?

Well, I have another python from the anaconda installation, which I mainly use.

python is a hardlink to pythonw. The rest are symbolic links to their respective versions within the python framework. No, you should not remove them. It is not uncommon for a operating system to have multiple version of python.


Apple's iOS 14 Translate app on macOS? In iOS 14, Apple added a Translate app. You're also supposed to be able to run iOS apps on macOS now, but I don't see it in the App Store from my Mac.
Anyone know if it's possible to run it on macOS (version 11, Big Sur).

This application is not available on macOS at this time


How can I listen to free radio on an iPhone? Is it possible to listen to the radio for free on the iPhone?

Do I need a special app?

I have downloaded some apps for digital radio that require payment, but I just want to listen to regular free radio

If you're referring to normal, terrestrial radio such as you'd get in your car or a cheap clock radio, the answer is that you cannot. At least, not without buying a receiver, something like this Griffin radio receiver.


Does An External Solid State Drive (SSD) Increase Performance In The Same Manner That An Internal One Would ? I've read quite a bit on Ask Different and elsewhere about how fitting a Solid State Drive (SSD) is one of the best ways (if not the best way) to increase the performance of your Apple Mac computer.

AFAIK this is a piece of hardware that is fitted internally inside the computer in place of the regular hard drive (and therefore takes a bit of technical know-how).

How then does an External SSD as exemplified here fit into the equation of increasing the performance of your Apple Mac ? (or am I getting the wrong end of the stick.)

It's definitely worth going internal. Someone asked the question some time ago here and the conclusion was, that even with USB3 (which only the newest Macs have), the internal version is more than 50% faster.

USB3 external will probably still be faster than a regular 2.5" MacBook drive (assuming that you have a MacBook), maybe even with USB2, but with older hardware (and thus older connectors, e.g. just USB2) the margins will get slimmer.

It may depend on your machine (e.g. if you still have warranty or if it is one that is hard to take apart, like the the very new superslim iMacs), but having retrofitted an SSD into a 2009 iMac I can say the benefit does outweigh efforts IMO.

Also given the SSD you linked there, you can get a current Samsung of the same size less expensive and spend the rest of the money for someone skilled to put it into your machine.


Broken SSL certificates When trying to access a couple of high-profile websites (*.apple.com, twitter.com) via HTTPS, they've since recently been getting their certificates rejected by some client apps (Chrome, App Store, curl) but not by others (Safari, Firefox, wget, lynx).

This is a bit paralyzing, because with App Store unable to talk to identity.apple.com I can't get OS updates anymore.

I'm running OSX 10.9.5 on a 2013 rMBP. I'm not aware of having made any major changes in the system recently. Not using any network-sniffing or otherwise unusual software. I haven't been messing with stored certificate-authority data - I wouldn't even quite know how to do that. I do have Homebrew-installed OpenSSL, if that changes anything.

Could anyone help me fix this?

(With great thanks to @Tetsujin for pointing me in the right direction)

Looking up details of the certificates, in browsers that allow doing that and in Keychain Access, showed that all the breakage was traceable to a "VeriSign Class 3 Public Primary Certification Authority - G5" which was untrusted; I haven't figured out why that was, and it wasn't prominently marked as such in KA.
Anyway, in KA I've set this cert to be "always trusted" on SSL, and everything is now loading well, though the other certs calling upon it are marked as "signed by an untrusted authority".


Using 30" cinema display as TV I have the old (now discontinued) 30" cinema display, but I don't use it that much anymore so I'm thinking of converting it to a TV if possible.

Yes I could get a TV tuner but I'm not sure about the cables, how would it connect with TV tuners? I already have Mini-DisplayPort to Dual-Link DVI cable, is there any TV tuner available that supports it?

I've never heard of a DisplayPort-based external TV tuner.

But there are HDMI-based TV tuners available, and HDMI-DVI adapters are cheap.

Single-link DVI supports 1920x1200 at 60 Hz, which is higher than any digital broadcast TV standard, so that wouldn't be your limiting factor.


Top: how to view the full command path? Is it possible, using top, to view the full path of the running processes/commands? I tried pressing C on my keyboard but it doesn't seem to work.

If you are looking for Top type output with full path

I suggest ps ax sorted by PID

or even better ps auxww sorted by CPU


Is it possible to restore a backup from a single disk on RAID1? I want to setup a Mac Mini Server with the following configuration.

The Mac Mini server has 2*1TB HDDs.
I want to do the following:

Setup the server
Create a backup of the system on an external drive with Time Machine
Create RAID1 with the two internal disks, according to this Link the disks should be empty then
Then I want to restore the backup created in step 2 on the RAID1
Backup all future data on the RAID1 system on the external drive

The RAID1 should give us the reliability we need, while the backups should ensure data security. However I am not 100% sure whether I can restore the backup made in step 2 on a RAID1 system. I assume it makes no difference as a RAID1 should be handled like a single disk by the OS.

Is it possible to restore a backup from a single disk on RAID1?

I believe it can be done but you lose the recovery partition and depending on your IT skills and willingness to start from scratch if the O/S gets hosed it might be a viable opportunity.

Note that I have not done this with Mavericks or Time Machine.

You need to boot from an O/S install disk. you can make one out of an 8GB flash drive with the Mavericks installer app and a number of freely available tools. Once you have booted from the O/S installer flash drive, bring up disk utility and wipe the drives of all partitions. Delete them. Then under the RAID tab make a RAID out of those two disks and partition as you want. Probably just best to stick with one partition unless you have a specific need for more than one.

Once that is done you can install the o/s on the RAID and restore your apps/files/settings from the external disk.

Note that I restored with a disk image using Carbon Copy Cloner from within disk utility, worked great but on an earlier O/S. So feedback from other folks would be good before committing to this procedure.


Shorcut to pan in Preview? Is there a shortcut (or the ability to assign one) to pan in Preview app?

It is quite troublesome to keep moving the mouse to and fro the scrollbars when we want to scroll.

You can use your mousewheel to pan up and down. Use Shift + mouse-wheel to pan left and right.

I just found that it may be easier to use Quick Look for the feature you're after. In finder, select your file and press the Spacebar to open it in Quick Look. Then if you use command+ you can zoom in.  Then you can click and drag to pan.

Use command- to zoom out, and Spacebar or esc to exit.


Photos stopped uploading to iCloud. What can I do? After updating to OS X 10.10.3, I opened Photos.app and imported my iPhoto library. Around ~3,000 photos were uploaded to iCloud, but the upload process stopped before the remaining 7,200 photos were uploaded. I can't figure out how to get the rest of the library up into iCloud. The screen capture below shows is from the Photos app. It has displayed the "Uploading 7,200 Items" for days now.

I've tried to pause and resume the upload in preferences but all I see is Uploading 7,200 Items there too.

Before I began this process I upgraded my iCloud storage plan to 200GB. I still have > 180GB of space remaining, so there is plenty of room for my photos.

Just to confirm, I'm on the latest release of OS X.

Any help will be much appreciated.

The surest way to resolve this is to create a fresh Photos Library by following these steps:

⌘ cmd-Q out of Photos.
Go into  → System Preferences → iCloud → Photos Options… and uncheck iCloud Photo Library.

Reboot if you want to be safe, though it shouldn’t be necessary.
Launch Photos with ⌥ opt-click.
Click Create New… and name your new Photos Library.

Go into Photos → Preferences → General and click Use as System Photo Library.

Go into Photos → Preferences → iCloud and check iCloud Photo Library.
Wait for your photos to be redownloaded from iCloud.

If you’d rather try to keep your existing Photos Library, follow these steps instead:

⌘ cmd-Q out of Photos.
Create a backup of your Photos Library.photoslibrary file.
Launch Photos with ⌘ cmd-⌥ opt-click.
Click Repair.

Wait for macOS to repair your Photos Library. A full sync should take place once the repair has completed.

Some screenshots courtesy of OS X Daily.


Homebrew asked me to move macports now it does not work I'm using HomeBrew for my usual mac stuff but I need to do some experiments with other package managers. So I installed MacPorts. everything seems alright but brew doctor asks me to move it:

  warning: You have MacPorts or Fink installed:

  This can cause trouble. You don't have to uninstall them, but you may want to

  temporarily move them out of the way, e.g. sudo mv /opt/local ~/macports

So I listened and moved it. And then in my bash profile I changed

export PATH="/opt/local/bin:/opt/local/sbin:$PATH"

to

export PATH="~/macports/bin:~/macports/sbin:$PATH"

and now when I when run port ... it gives me this error:

  -bash: /Users/foobar/macports/bin/port: /opt/local/libexec/macports/bin/tclsh8.5: bad interpreter: No such file or directory

What am I doing wrong and how can I solve it?

P.S.1.

I edited the /Users/foobar/macports/bin/port file as the admin and edited the first line from
#!/opt/local/libexec/macports/bin/tclsh8.5

to

#!/Users/foobar/macports/libexec/macports/bin/tclsh8.5

now I get this new error:

  sources_conf must be set in /opt/local/etc/macports/macports.conf or in your /Users/foobar/.macports/macports.conf file
      while executing
  "mportinit ui_options global_options global_variations"
  Error: /Users/foobar/macports/bin/port: Failed to initialize MacPorts, sources_conf must be set in /opt/local/etc/macports/macports.conf or in your /Users/foobar/.macports/macports.conf file

P.S.2.

changed all the /opt/locals to ~/macportss in

/Users/foobar/macports/var/macports/sources/rsync.macports.org/macports/release/tarballs/ports/_ci/bootstrap.sh

and

/Users/foobar/macports/etc/macports/macports.conf

nothing changed!

P.S.3.

I see some of the guys here try to guid me towards removing/uninstalling MacPorts or HomeBrew. That's not what I'm asking for. I am able to revert all I did and make the MacPorts work again (in fact I just did that). My question is why HomeBrew Is saying that? what I happens If I don't do what it is asking for? What if I want the MacPorts too? and most importantly how make the MacPorts keep working after moving?

Disentangling messed up dot files and environment variables and paths might be a lot of work if you didn’t follow the recommended steps precisely or made subsequent changes. What about making a list of the homebrew packages you have (if any) then removing it entirely. Same with macports - don’t try to adapt it to run in a new place - remove it entirely after you know what packages you need.

Then make a brand new user account - install homebrew there cleanly with a default path and having cleaned up /opt before you made the new account.

This will quickly let you know if you have a system problem or it’s just the weight of all the changes made to get the previous software to run.

The alternative to this will be a lot of back and forth and you dumping a ton of data into the question or arranging remote access with someone skilled in picking apart bash/scripting errors and digging into the code and what brew doctor has to say about your setup that’s broken.


How to shutdown a Mac after one hour of an application? My son spends hours on Star Wars Galaxies.
Does anybody knows how to shutdown automatically the Mac after one hour of gaming and to let it turn on again only after some time?

I tried to identify the executable in a top command but I do not master enough shell and crontab to do something useful.

Best

The answer to this question will shutdown at a certain time How can I forcibly shut down my Mac at an appointed time? but that is not exactly what you asked for, although it is non-cancellable (well, not easily anyway) and walks you through the use of cron.

You can also achieve the same thing in the Energy Saver control panel, by clicking the Schedule... button.

To shutdown, after a certain time, there is a free application called Shutdown Timer which usefully gives a half-time reminder.

Finally, here is a non-cancellable AppleScript, from An AppleScript to generate a timed shutdown

(* how many seconds before we remove the notice? *)
property dialog_timeout : 3

repeat
  try
    display dialog "In how many minutes must the computer be shutdown?" ¬
    default answer ""
    set the time_amount to the text returned of the result as integer
    if the time_amount is greater than 0 then exit repeat
    on error number error_number
    if the error_number is -128 then return "user cancelled"
  end try
end repeat

if the time_amount is 1 then
  set the my_minuten to "minute"
else
  set the my_minuten to "minutes"
end if

display dialog "The computer will be shutdown in " & time_amount & " " & ¬
my_minuten & "!" buttons {"Ok"} default button 1 giving up after dialog_timeout

delay time_amount * 60
tell application "Finder" to shut down

However, none of these options keep the machine turned off for a specific set time, so they only answer half of your question, unfortunately. Maybe managed parental accounts, as suggested by D.G., are the way to go... See OS X Mavericks: Set up parental controls


Applescript : Merging list I'm trying to merging two list but always have an error

set myNewList to ""

set myClipboard to the clipboard
set theList to words of myClipboard
##set theLength to (get length of mylist)

set ColortheList to {"42f489", "5cdf64", "FFFF00", "41f4d0", "4191f4", "4286f4", "4286f4", "f44192", "f44192", "f44192", "42f989", "5cdf54", "FFFF40", "41f4d5", "4191f2", "4386f5", "4246f4", "f55192", "f46192", "f24192"}

repeat with a from 1 to length of theList
    copy ({item a of theList, item a of ColortheList}) to the end of the |myNewList|

end repeat

Return :

  error "Can’t set end of \"\" to {\"whateverfirstitemis\", \"42f489\"}." number
  -10006 from last insertion point of ""

How can I create a new list with the items of my clipboards merge with the colorlist ?

You need to change set myNewList to "" to:

set myNewList to {}

Otherwise myNewList isn't an empty list, it's an empty string.


File Not Found Error while including bits/stdc++.h My System: MacOSX 10.9 64-bit

Hey guys, I am working on Sublime Text 3. I have included the #include <bits/stdc++.h>
but when I am compiling the source code,

adityas-air% g++ 285C.cpp
285C.cpp:1:10: fatal error: 'bits/stdc++.h' file not found
#include <bits/stdc++.h>
         ^
1 error generated.

Is there some other header file specific to Mac that is needed to be included instead of this or some tweaking that is needed to be done to Sublime Text 3.Thanx in advance!

Since, bits/stdc++ is a GNU GCC extension, whereas OSX uses the clang compiler.

You have to create bits directory inside /usr/local/include and then make a header file stdc++.h inside bits and paste the contents of this code inside it. Then, it should compile as expected.


VS Code - Code Helper process using more than 100% CPU on macOS I noticed that my MacBook gets hot and noisy (fans) when using VS Code (v1.31). The Activity Monitor shows the process Code Helper using more than 100% of CPU. It started happening with one repository which is huge. Only one window opened, no files opened, and it always uses more than 100% CPU.

Checking in Microsoft/GitHub, there was an issue reported but they closed it saying "This issue has been closed automatically because it needs more information and has not had recent activity." , but it is still an ongoing issue. I tried some of the recommendations in the comments but didn't work.

Does anybody has more info and/or know how to avoid this? Is it possible to make some configurations for VS Code to not burn the MacBook?

The behaviour you describe could either be a bug in VS Code or it is intended behaviour simply because the numbers of files you have require large amounts of CPU time to process. I strongly suspect that the problem is a bug.

The issue you have found have the same externally observables as your problem, i.e. the CPU usage of Code Helper is very high. However there could be many different reasons for that to happen. Therefore it is not a problem that that specific issue has been closed for outside comments.

I would highly suggest opening a new issue instead. Go to this page:

https://github.com/Microsoft/vscode/issues

And click the "New issue" button.  Select that you want to file a "Bug report". Then please describe everything carefully, including which of the recommendations you have tried that did not work.

Hopefully the VSCode team will be able to fix the bug and release a new and fixed version.


Need to type password again installing next apps, after 15 minutes. How to disable? to install 20 apps, i need to type apple id password again & again, if idle to installing the next apps more than 15 minutes

is there a way to disable/bypass/extend the time limit?

Nb. i am using ios 7

No, the only options available are Immediately or After 15 minutes.


How to recover my harddrive if I can't see it in the disk utility I have a 2007 aluminium iMac which I upgraded months ago to Mavericks.
Today it locked up and I held the power button to shut it down and cannot get it to start again.
I get the flashing folder ? icon on boot which I understand means the boot drive is not found.

I tried Safe Mode (Shift after the boot sound) : nothing happened (grey screen)
I tried Single User mode (cmd+S after boot sound) : nothing happened
I tried recovery mode (cmd+R after the boot sound) : nothing
I tried booting with the option key, nothing.
I tried target disk mode with cmd+T, and it seemed to work in that it showed a different icon. However, I realized that I can't connect my new 2013 macbook to it because the latter does not have a firewire port (is there another way)
I also tried disconnecting everything, including the keyboard and mouse (I have bt keyboard and a usb one so I tried both, plus mouse and trackpad, tried both)
I tried reseting the PRAM and that other reset (where you unplug for 15s)
Finally I scrounged out my old installation disk (Leopard) and booted Installation disk 1.
When it came up, I went to Utilities in the menu and selected Disk Utility.

So far so good, but Disk Utility does not show my internal HDD, so I can't verify or repair it.
It does show my time machine drive connected by firewire, and of course it shows the DVD installation disk.

What do I try next?
Given this happened the way it did if there is disk corruption I think it should be minor and reparable. But right now I don't even know if I'd be able to restore a new OS.

Sorry Rhubarb but the next step is to physically remove the hard drive from the iMac. If you are not comfortable then the best option is to go to an Apple Store or Authorized repair center and let them do it for you.

They might even be able to test the iMac, hard drive cable, and the hard drive for you. Best case the cable just crapped out. Worst case the drive is dead and recovery is not possible. There are dozens of things in between both of those but more can be said concretely once the drive has been removed and tested in another enclosure.


Power consumption of iMac All other things being equal, what is the difference in power consumption of iMac with 8GB of RAM and iMac with 16 GB RAM?

It depends on which model of iMac it is as the various models have differents types of RAM - for example DDR2, DDR3, LPDDR3 and LPDDR4. In particular make note that some models use LPDDR RAM, where the "LP" stands for Low-Power.

The latest mid-2017 iMac uses PC4-19200 DDR4 SO-DIMM RAM modules. Here the difference in power usage between 8 GB and 16 GB is approximately 3 watts.

The difference between in power usage in having 1 x 16 GB, vs 2 x 8 GB, vs 4 x 4 GB modules is negligible.

Note that the mid-2017 27" iMac consumes about 217 watts when the CPU is maxed out, so the RAM power usage is very small compared to the rest of the system.


Screws required to attach HD's to mounting tray for Apple Mac Pro Tower Mid-2012 I recently ordered 2 new HD's for my Apple Mac Pro Tower however on opening my Mac, I found all the screws were missing in the last two trays.  I borrowed as many as I could from the other two trays but I need more!  However I cannot find them for sale anywhere!  I can only find them for sale with the mounting trays for e.g £15.  I need about 6-10.

Also they seem to be attached to some grey rubber too.  Is this important?

What do I need to consider if I want to buy replacements?

I assume you are talking about the first generation MacPro "CheeseGrater" tower. for future reference it is best to include the model number with your question so there is no confusion.

The screws are actually standard threads and common to ANY hard drive. You should be able to get these screws at any hardware store worth its name. Just take the HD with you to make sure you get the right ones.

The rubber grommets can also be sourced at a hardware or electrical parts store. Just get some grommets that will fit in the holes in the Apple HD trays and then size the screws long enough to span the gap between the grommet, the HD tray and into the drive. Depending on the size of the screw head you may also need some flat washers.

I did this with my MacPro 1,1 many years ago and it worked a treat.

Sourcing the Apple genuine parts proved frustrating and the few places/people that carried them wanted way more money than it was worth. In total you should be able to get screws, grommets and washers for well under $10


Is there any audio splitter applications? As I know,  there are many audio splitter software like GoldWave on the Windows platform. But I cannot find any similar applications for Mac Os.

What I want is an audio splitter which can

automatically split the audio file according to its wave, that is, it can recognize the pause automatically;
split the audio according to its lyric file.

Do you have any suggestions? I do not like to install a Windows along with OS X to use such software.

Audacity is available for Mac and can do many audio editing functions, though I'm not sure about "split the audio according to its lyric file".


How is the iOS App Store Updates list organized? I have dozens of apps in my iOS App Store that have updates available, but I have no interest in updating most of them. There are certain apps though that if an update were available I would want to install it. But I can't find any rhyme or reason to how the updates are sorted in that section of the App Store app which makes it harder for me to see if something is available short of slowly scrolling through the whole list or searching for that app directly.

So how are they organized?

Not to be flippant but I don't think anyone outside of Apple knows.  I've had Apple products for years and my only guess is they're rolled out within a specific time after their review has completed.  We don't know when the apps are reviewed, except for our own, so we don't know how we stack-up against the other apps that have been updated.


Renaming files with special structure in a quick way I checked out the solution here, but it is not adressing my problem too well, because it does not use the specific structure of my naming.

I have a collection of files, enumerated and named in a systematic way, for instance

  filep-x

where x is a number that can be quite large and p is a marker for a "makrocollection". I would like to copy all files in such a makrocollection as a template and automatically rename all files copied as

  fileq-x

With other words, is there an option that I can replace names automatically using the terminal (like it is possible in many editors) without working with additional documents?

Thank you in advance!

This could be a job for pax, assuming that there is a consistent naming convention.

cd directory

pax -rws/filep/fileq/ filep-* /path/to/copy/directory


Is there a way to use Apple TV+ for free one more time? One year ago I bought a new iPhone, and availed one year free trial period of Apple TV+ subscription.
Now I have bought a new 2020 MacBook Pro and I am just asking. Is there a possibility to use it somehow to launch free Apple TV+ for another year?
I have a family cloud. What will happen if I run new MacBook Pro with one of my family members Apple ID? Will it work and be visible also for me as the owner of Family Cloud?

Is there a possibility to use it somehow to launch free apple tv+ for another year?

No.
Once you have availed the free trial offer of Apple TV+, whether for an year when purchasing a new device, or 7 days for everyone else, you can not avail it again.

What will happen if I run new MacBook Pro with one of my family members Apple ID? Will it work and be visible also for me as the owner of Family Cloud?

You can not game the system to avail the free trial again.
From the Apple terms and conditions (PDF) for Apple TV+ promo:

Only one offer per Family, regardless of number of devices purchased. You can share your one-year free trial of Apple TV+ with up to five other family members via Family Sharing.