Cisco AnyConnect prevents Continuity from allowing Mac to answer iPhone One of the nicest features of the new OS integration between iOS 8 and Yosemite is the ability to text and receive phone calls from my iPhone while on my Mac.

However, when I work from home, I need to use Cisco AnyConnect to create a VPN network. When the VPN network is active, I can see phone calls from my iPhone on my Mac, but answering the call on my Mac will cause the call to disconnect. Trying to call from my Mac will show the dialog box that I am connecting, but the iPhone never responds. If I am on a call on my Mac, and start up the VPN, the call disconnects.

I have a 2014 13" MacBook Pro and an iPhone 5S both running the latest OS with all the patches.

What is going on, and is there a way to fix the problem?

Cisco's VPN software typically locks out all local LAN access.  In other words, your Mac is no longer on your network.  It is now tunneled into your VPN connection.


Yosemite bluetooth audio is choppy/skips On two separate MacBook Pros (one brand new, one several years old) running OSX Yosemite, all bluetooth audio devices are choppy (audio clicks in and out, skips like a scratched CD).

I have tried playing audio through Spotify, iTunes, YouTube with Beats Studio wireless headphones and a Big Jambox on both, in separate environments.  Sometimes the sound is perfect and clear.  Then it suddenly becomes choppy.

I've looked at Activity Monitor during choppy times, and nothing seems different from normal.

For the record, using the same Wifi and devices, iOS8 iPhone 6 and 5S both do not have this issue.

I'm curious how to even begin to troubleshoot the issue - It's hard to troubleshoot as there's no way of knowing if it's interference, app performance, etc.

It's an issue with the amount of power/bandwidth supplied to the BluetoothAudioAgent, the daemon in charge of streaming. Apparently most people have had success by entering the following command in terminal.app:

defaults write com.apple.BluetoothAudioAgent "Apple Bitpool Min (editable)" -int 40

Source: http://lifehacker.com/fix-your-bluetooth-audio-in-yosemite-with-this-terminal-1670380974

The source article lists Yosemite as the specific OS this applies to, but I know that this fix also works back to Mavericks and (possibly) Snow Leopard (untested).

I am having this exact issue at the moment and entered that command with non-noticeable results. I'm going to reboot the machine and see if that takes the new settings into account. But it seems like this command is the way that the wide majority of people have resolved this issue.

EDIT: Just rebooted, the audio quality is significantly better. No noticeable choppiness whatsoever (knock on wood). It appears that the command I posted above does seem to resolve the issue.

EDIT 2 (2015-8-24): The above command does help in many cases and produces noticeable quality improvements. Unfortunately, however, Yosemite is very moody with regard to bluetooth audio. The problem compounds itself when in proximity of other bluetooth devices. To expand on my previous answer above, I highly recommend entering the following additional commands to increase other bluetooth audio parameters:

defaults write com.apple.BluetoothAudioAgent "Apple Bitpool Max (editable)" 80
defaults write com.apple.BluetoothAudioAgent "Apple Bitpool Min (editable)" 48
defaults write com.apple.BluetoothAudioAgent "Apple Initial Bitpool (editable)" 40
defaults write com.apple.BluetoothAudioAgent "Apple Initial Bitpool Min (editable)" 40
defaults write com.apple.BluetoothAudioAgent "Negotiated Bitpool" 58
defaults write com.apple.BluetoothAudioAgent "Negotiated Bitpool Max" 58
defaults write com.apple.BluetoothAudioAgent "Negotiated Bitpool Min" 48

EDIT 3 (2015-9-08): Alright. I'm sorry I keep updating this answer, but I keep finding more information about this issue (since improving bluetooth audio on Yosemite is a long-term effort, apparently). I've found several sources that cut straight to the mustard and set everything to 80 which appears to be the maximum allowable value for Bitpool settings. If the above settings don't work well enough for you, try the "All In™" approach.

defaults write com.apple.BluetoothAudioAgent "Apple Bitpool Max (editable)" 80
defaults write com.apple.BluetoothAudioAgent "Apple Bitpool Min (editable)" 80
defaults write com.apple.BluetoothAudioAgent "Apple Initial Bitpool (editable)" 80
defaults write com.apple.BluetoothAudioAgent "Apple Initial Bitpool Min (editable)" 80
defaults write com.apple.BluetoothAudioAgent "Negotiated Bitpool" 80
defaults write com.apple.BluetoothAudioAgent "Negotiated Bitpool Max" 80
defaults write com.apple.BluetoothAudioAgent "Negotiated Bitpool Min" 80

To see your current defaults:

defaults read com.apple.BluetoothAudioAgent

Edit 4 (2016-07-14): One more (hopefully last) edit. Make sure that you restart the bluetoothaudiod (or coreaudiod) service after making changes to these settings.

sudo killall bluetoothaudiod

Or, if you are on El Capitan:

sudo killall coreaudiod

Credit for this goes to the multiple wise nerds below who suggested it. (Thank you!)


Why can’t I redownload Minecraft when I deleted it I paid for Minecraft on the App Store. I accidentally deleted it and now I can’t get it back. I signed into all 3 of my accounts but it always says minecraft costs money. How do I fix this?

Some reasons why this could be.

You changed your country or region:

  If you previously changed the country or region of your Apple ID, you might not see all of your past purchases.

Also try:

  If you can't find an item that you want to redownload, check your purchase history to make sure that you purchased it with the Apple ID that you're signed in with. If not, sign in with a different Apple ID.

Your purchases could be hidden:

  If you don't see items in your
  purchase history on other Apple IDs,
  check to see if the purchases are
  hidden. If your purchases are hidden,
  you might not see them even after you
  follow the steps in this article.

Additionally if the purchase was part
of a Family Sharing group and you
have been removed from it you can’t
re-download it.


What is the significance of the aliases field in the user preferences? Under:

System Preferences > Users & Groups > Advanced Options > Aliases:

There are 2 lines. One is my Apple ID. The second is in the form

com.apple.idms.GUID

What is the significance of these fields?

I do not have my Apple ID set to login my computer.

A user name alias functions as a simple way to create a shorthand version of an account name.

For example, if a users full account name is “Buscar웃SD” (which would be difficult to type every time to log in), one could setup an alias as “BSD” and just login with the shortened version instead.


How do I import only new photos with Image Capture. It used to be that if I connected my iPhone and clicked Import All in Image Capture, it would import only the new photos. Now it imports all the photos even though it recognizes that most of them are already imported and it shows a green checkmark on them. How do I import only new photos without having to select them one-by-one?

I don't think it's entirely possible although there is an Image Capture plugin for Automator that will let you do a number of automatic procedures. I can't say if this is possible but my guess is it will be difficult. Check out the end of this article to see if this is a path you want to take. The Many Miracles of Image Capture

That kind of smart import was built into Photos (iPhoto) as a part of the OS free suite of apps. I generally use that one for easy importing and sorting but some don't because of it's odd organization and storage of the photos.


Why does the pitch of my MacBook Pro changes when i plug something off the headphone jack? I've been wondering about that for quite a long time already.
My MacBook Pro (Retina, 15-inch, Mid 2015) runs on Mojave (10.14.4) and whenever i'm plugging off my headphones from the MacBook to switch to the internal Speakers the pitch of the outcoming audio is about 3 semitones up and after about 15 seconds it switches back to the original audio signal.

Honestly i don't remember for how long this problem is occurs but i think i noticed it first after a major software version update.
As i'm developing myself i'm just curious how something like this can happen, it makes no sense to me at all. (I can only guess it's a software driver bug)

A good friend of mine was also running a Mid 2015 Macbook Pro 15" and he never had that problem.

Try opening the Audio MIDI Setup app

and adjusting the Format of the External Headphones or the MacBook Pro Speakers so they're the same sample rate (48,000 Hz in this screenshot).

Mine were not the same.


Just changed a password, not in my keychain? I last used Twitter some time ago and no longer recalled my password. I did a reset and let Safari suggest a password.

I also have a PC where I use Chrome. Normally I would go into Keychain Access and show the password and then type it into Chrome. However, when I tried that this time, all the passwords for that service are from 2014.

Any ideas?

Also, is there a better way to do this? Is there some way I can use my iCloud keychain in PC Chrome?

There is a better way. Let me grab my small soapbox.

It's always so hard to manage multiple password stores across multiple browsers, multiple devices and multiple OS.

In my experience, turn off all offers to save passwords and use one repository. If you're all in Apple iCloud - the keychain is OK for many / most. When that fails you or you're a power user, get 1Password.

If you need to have windows and other OS - get 1Password. It is paid software but your time is also valuable and I see it as an insurance policy against bad passwords and password reuse.

https://1password.com

I can't imagine not having a system to remember all the fake security question answers, all the other details about account setup and most of all, not having a system to automate entry of unique passwords for each and every service so one breach doesn't spread to my entire digital life.

off the soapbox, now


Apple Numbers use Actual date instead of formatted date I have a spreadsheet with a list of months as the columns with the value 1/1/2020, 2/1/2020, 3/1/2020, etc. The cell format has been set to January, February, March, etc.
When I attempt to use date for calculation, it uses the month name and not the date.
Example:
=SUMIFS($Amount,Date,">="&E1,Date,"<="&EOMONTH(E1,0))

E1 contains '03/01/2020', displays March, but it sums everything up to the end of March. If I change it to ">=03/01/2020" it works as expected.
Is there a way to force Apple Numbers to use the Actual value and not the formatted one? The documentation says it should be doing this, but it does not.

OK. I reproduced this. If you use CONCATENATE instead of & to combine the strings then things become a little clearer. You can click on CONCATENATE and see the intermediate results--in this case, you will find a SUMIF with CONCATENATE in the February column yields ">=February" so it is not surprising that the SUMIF produces an incorrect result.
So your supposition that Numbers is using the month name rather than the date is correct. If you put the T function around the date cell reference--i.e. CONCATENATE(">=",T(C$1))--then you get an empty string from the T function, which matches with the T documentation (i.e. if you give T a non-TEXT type it returns an empty string). So, the T sees row 1 as being a series of DATE/TIME types but the CONCATENATE/& sees it as a series of TEXT types.
I would consider this a Numbers bug (with CONCATENATE not recognizing date/time types). I seem to remember having done a similar thing in a prior release of Numbers and it worked as you desired so the bug may have been recently introduced. While we wait for a fix, let's see about a workaround.
I first tried DATEVALUE--i.e. CONCATENATE(">=",DATEVALUE(C$1))--but that yielded ">=2/1/2020"! I presume this is because DATEVALUE is seeing row 1 as a series of TEXT types just like CONCATENATE and when it sees February it assumes the day is 1 and the year is this year, hence 2/1/2020. I would consider this a variant on the first bug.
So we have to go the long way round. If you do this: CONCATENATE(">=",DATE(YEAR(C$1),MONTH(C$1),DAY(C$1))) you will correctly get ">=2/1/2021" and SUMIF produces the correct results.
Interesting problem.


No .bash_profile in OS X Lion? I just did a clean install of OS X Lion and I see that now I have no .bash_profile file in my home directory.

Should I create this by hand? (I want to save in it some alias.)

Thank you.

PS : The only file that exist now that I could use is /etc/profile

By default this file does not exist on any version of OS X. And yes, it is up to you to create it manually:

touch ~/.bash_profile

Alternatively, you could use nano as well if you want to edit the file at the same time:

nano ~/.bash_profile

Do not monkey in /etc unless you know what you're doing.


Impossible to Delete Catalina Installers I've tried to delete the Catalina installer twice - and both instances have become stuck in Trash.
Trying to empty Trash via GUI results in 'operation can't be completed because item is in use` errors. Same thing when I reboot into safe mode and try to empty Trash again.
sudo rm -rf ~filename

gives 'operation not permitted' and then 'directory not empty` errors
ls -laO

show no flags set for the files. So no impediment there.
I've also tried the third-party deletion tool Trash It! on it's most aggressive setting to no success.

This is what the two files look like in Trash. I've never seen those icons before. I'd say it was something installer related but the Big Sur installer deleted without issue. I'm not sure what steps to take next.

If you cannot delete it normally, you can either attempt to find what file is keeping it from being deleted or just delete it from macOS Recovery.
To check for an open file that's in the Trash, from Terminal:
lsof | grep '.Trash'

Or macOS Recovery:
From macOS, running normally, open Terminal and execute the following compound command to reboot to macOS Recovery:
sudo nvram "recovery-boot-mode=unused"; sleep 2; sudo reboot

In macOS Recovery, open Terminal from the Utilities menu and run the following commands:
find /Volumes -maxdepth 4 -type d -name '.Trash'

On my system it returned:
/Volumes/Macintosh HD/Users/me/.Trash
/Volumes/Macintosh HD - Data/Users/me/.Trash

Then change directory to your .Trash directory, either one if two are listed for the target user, delete the .app application bundle, and reboot:
cd '/Volumes/Macintosh HD/Users/me/.Trash'
rm -r *.app
reboot

Or from Terminal in macOS Recovery you can simply run the following compound command and it will delete all .Trash directories and reboot. The .Trash directories will be recreated automatically when logging into your account.
find /Volumes -maxdepth 4 -type d -name '.Trash' -exec rm -r '{}' \; 2>/dev/null; reboot


Preventing Spotlight from Indexing Files & Folders? Spotlight is a very ingenious "tool" of OS X, attributable in no large part to its indexing feature. Hiding various files & folders is challenging even when using various encryption applications. I am aware there is a built in option, that allows you to mark as necessary, files, folders etc that Spotlight should not index.

Are there more effective, (possibly faster methods) of hiding files & folders from Spotlight's "prying eyes", therefore in essence protecting you from other prying eyes that may have access to your Mac ?

Create a file named .metadata_never_index inside a folder.
Rename folders or files so that they end with .noindex.
If you only want to hide files from the GUI, move them to a system folder like ~/Library/.
Move the files to a folder that starts with a period like ~/.fontconfig/. It doesn't remove them from mdfind queries like mdfind 'kMDItemFSName=*' -onlyin ~/.fontconfig/ though.

Related questions:

Exclude files from "central metadata store"
How to add folder to Spotlight "do not index"?
How can I hide the privacy tab from Spotlight.prefpane?


How do I install Windows 10 on a Mac Mini that is booted from an external SSD? I have a Mac Mini 2018 that is booted from a 2TB external SSD. I would like to install Windows on the internal 256 GB SSD. Preferably using the entire internal disk. When I run Boot Camp  Assistant it complains External storage device Attached. The two alternatives that I have considered:

Run Windows 10 in a VM - I've done this in the past but was not satisfied with the experience.
Boot from the internal drive and install Windows 10 on a partition there. - This would be a waste of the limited space on the drive.

I take Apple at its word that I can't resize the Windows partition after I create it. I don't expect to use Windows a lot, but when I do, I want it to behave itself. Can the process be completed without Boot Camp Assistant?

The primary reason you can not resize the Windows partition is because the Boot Camp Assistant installs Windows at the end of the drive. If you do not use the Boot Camp Assistant, then you could place the Windows installation files in a ExFAT formatted partition at the end of the drive. Once Windows is installed, you can delete this partition and expand the main Windows partition to reclaim the space. Or, avoid the problem entirely and install Windows to the internal drive by booting the Windows installer from a flash drive.

Below are the steps for creating a flash drive installer.

Erase the flash drive. Use a ExFAT format with a MBR partitioning scheme.
Mount the Windows ISO and copy the files to the flash drive.
Use the Boot Camp Assistant to download the Windows Support Software.
Copy the Windows Support Software to the flash drive.

You will have to configure you Mac to allow booting from a flash drive. Once booted from the flash drive, I am not sure how far you can get using the GUI. You may need to use the CLI to complete the installation. I do know the driver used access the internal drive is not loaded until you reach the window asking for the product key.


Upgrading RAM in Late Model 2009 iMac Is it worth upgrading an iMac late 2009 model to max RAM at 16gb for video editing/exporting? Currently to export a 3gb video file in Final Cut Pro it takes 1 - 1.5 hours to export the file. Is it worth it to upgrade the RAM or buy a new iMac ( was thinking this model)

Think its a late 2015 model which is the current one in store

21.5 inch

2.8GHz Processor
1TB Storage

2.8GHz quad-core Intel Core i5 processor
Turbo Boost up to 3.3GHz

8GB of onboard memory, configurable up to 16GB

1TB hard drive1

Intel Iris Pro Graphics 6200

1920-by-1080 sRGB display

You have the perfect test setup here:

  iMac late 2009 model ... to export a 3gb video file in Final Cut Pro it takes 1 - 1.5 hours

You can restart your Mac and quit all the apps except FCP and open activity monitor. You can watch the memory usage during the export. If the memory pressure is green, then no amount of RAM will help speed up the export.

Assuming RAM isn't the bottleneck, next to eliminate is the storage - watch the iops and data rates for read and write. That too is easy to benchmark - ssd gets higher iops than most single hard drive. The other answers have great advice and your bottleneck is likely CPU/GPU but you can measure precisely what you need with activity monitor.


Problems with Apple id i set up my son's mini iPad with my Apple id thus i could keep track of The purchases. Now i can only download apps on his mini iPad And not on my iPad nor iPhone ;( What can I do to fin this problem?

Since your phone only really talks to Apple's servers - you can sign out of your Apple ID in the store section of the settings App. Then check the date and time on the device (it needs to be somewhat close to the time on the servers for the security to work - within a minute should be fine) and then sign in again.


How to give access to my user and _www I am new to mac and running a website through apache server.
The code for my application is being accessed by the _www user, so I set the ownership to _www user but then when I try to edit a file from netbeans I have to give the ownership back to my user.
I dont want to use the my application or netbeans from the root user but is there a way I can give permission to both myuser and _www user to a directory?

Thanks!

To give a user or a group full access to a folder use

chmod +a "user_name allow list,add_file,search,delete,add_subdirectory,delete_child,readattr,writeattr,readextattr,writeextattr,readsecurity,writesecurity,chown,file_inherit,directory_inherit" /path/to/folder

You may replace user_name by a group_name.

To remove the ACL simply replace the +a by -a.

It's similar for a single file - the attributes are different though:

chmod +a "user_name allow read,write,execute,delete,append,readattr,writeattr,readextattr,writeextattr,readsecurity,writesecurity,chown" /path/to/file

Insert a -R for all files in a folder:

chmod -R +a "user_name allow read,...


How to have spotlight index .tex files? I want spotlight to index my .tex files and show them as possible results when I search. I imagine the solution would work for any extension, but right now I only care about .tex

TexShop should ship with a Spotlight importer that does the job.

If not, you can try this homemade solution:

https://email.esm.psu.edu/pipermail/macosx-tex/2013-May/051009.html


What happens after an iPhone has its data auto-erased? On the "Touch ID & Passcode", there's the option "Erase Data", which says

  Erase all data on this iPhone after 10 failed passcode attempts.

  Data protection is enabled.

Is it possible to restore the phone using a laptop that has backed up the iPhone?

Once erased by the failed passcode attempts, the phone will be put in Activation Lock (assuming you have iOS 7 or later and have enabled Find My iPhone). You will need to unlock it using the Apple ID it is linked to. From there, you can restore the phone from a previous backup.


Apple hardware issue. Battery not charging, service recommended Battery not charging. Service recommended.
I bought this MacBook Pro 13 inch retina exactly 5 years ago and it was working perfectly fine until now. But, all of a sudden it stopped working, then I plugged in the power adapter and tried to power it on, it started with a chime but took way longer than usual to boot up. On the home screen, it showed battery not charging, service recommended.
I went to  store, after inspecting the Mac for just a minute they told that the battery needs to be replaced and the fare they mentioned is very high. So, I bought a battery with one year warranty and replaced it myself with the help of ifixit document. Everything is fine and the Mac booted up. Now, in the Mac home screen, same problem again, the battery is not charging even after plugging the power adapter for 12 hours continously. The cycle count of the new battery is 0.
I'm unable to understand what the problem is!! The Mac works perfectly fine with the power adapter plugged in and the magsafe light is amber. As soon as I disconnect the power adapter, the Mac stops working and shuts down.
I ran the  diagnostics and the response codes were PPP003 and PPT006.
I tried different things to identify the problem:-
changed the power adapter, it's still the same.
Cleaned the contacts between power adapter and macbook pro, it's still the same.
Reset SMC, it's still the same.
Reset PRAM, it's still the same.
Please help me out!!!

The response codes from Apple Diagnostics are listed in https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT203747:

PPP003: There may be an issue with the power adapter. Disconnect the MagSafe power adapter from the computer and the power outlet, then reconnect. Run the test again.
If this code appears a second time, further troubleshooting may be required. Contact Apple or take your computer to an Apple Authorized Service Provider or Apple Retail Store to determine which service and support options are available.

PPT006: The battery requires service. The battery is not functioning normally, though you may not notice a change in its behavior or the amount of charge it holds. You can continue to use your battery before it’s checked without harming your computer.
Contact Apple or take your computer to an Apple Authorized Service Provider or Apple Retail Store to determine which service and support options are available.

So there still seems to be a problem either with the power adapter or the battery. Without access to the hardware it's impossible to analyze this further so it's probably best to visit the Apple Store again.


Can I upgrade my iOS using the iTunes restore, but not to the latest version? Right now, the latest version of iOS is 9.1. Mine is 8.1.2. Can I use the restore option in iTunes to install version 9.0.2 or do I have to update to 9.1 and then downgrade to 9.0.2?

I just did this. Use ipsw.me to download your version (9.0.2). You can restore from any version that's green. Red means Apple isn't signing it. Press & hold option when clicking Restore in iTunes. Select the downloaded .ipsw

Do note that time is of the essence. Once Apple stops signing the 9.0.2 firmware, you will be forced to upgrade to a current OS image.


Why does my Apple Watch glow green sometimes? Every now and then, I’ll notice the back of my Apple Watch glowing with a green LED light. It seems to happen sporadically and usually only lasts for a few seconds.

Why does my Apple Watch glow green sometimes?

It's taking your heart rate.
Per Apple:

"Blood is red because it reflects red light and absorbs green light. Apple Watch uses green LED lights paired with light‑sensitive photodiodes to detect the amount of blood flowing through your wrist at any given moment. When your heart beats, the blood flow in your wrist - and the green light absorption - is greater. Between beats, it's less. By flashing its LED lights hundreds of times per second, Apple Watch can calculate the number of times the heart beats each minute - your heart rate."

The green LED's actually are flashing hundreds of times each second so to you it looks like it's glowing, but it's not.


How to extract InstallESD.dmg from my iMac Recovery Partition? I'm trying to extract the InstallESD.dmg image so that I can create a USB key any time I want to in the future, to recover/boot my 2011 iMac.  I would think this would be no problem at all, since the machine obviously is authorized to run Lion.

However, every time I try to run the installer in order to retrieve the image (following tutorials such as http://hints.macworld.com/article.php?story=20110831105634716&query=lion+usb for example), I am stopped cold by the need to sign into the App Store with my Apple ID.  Apple then checks to see if I've bought Lion - which I have not since it came with the machine - and refuses to let me proceed.

This is maddening, does anyone know how to simply and direct extract the InstallESD image from the recovery partition without requiring an App Store login?

And in case anyone mentions it, I do NOT have the installer as downloaded from the app store so I cannot just open the package to get the file - it's not available that way on the recovery partition.

I should also add that I've tried Lion DiskMaker and while it seems like a great concept, the AppleScript always crashes just before completion, and I don't trust the result.

The recommended way to create a recovery partition on an external disk is now to use Apple's Recovery Disk Assistant. It was released after that Mac OS X Hints article and Lion DiskAssistant.

If your Mac has firmware support for internet recovery mode (like Macs released after 2010-2011), you won't probably need any external recovery partition. http://support.apple.com/kb/ht4718:

  If you happen to encounter a situation in which you cannot start from the Recovery System, such as your hard drive stopped responding or you installed a new hard drive without OS X installed, new Mac models introduced after public availability of OS X Lion or OS X Mountain Lion automatically use the OS X Internet Recovery feature if the Recovery System (Command-R method above) doesn't work. OS X Internet Recovery lets you start your Mac directly from Apple's servers.


How can I switch between the Japanese and English dictionaries on iBooks? For whatever reason, my iBooks dictionary is stuck in Japanese. Even when I read English books, defining a word always causes the app to use the Japanese dictionary. My iPod's language is English, so I have no idea why this might be. Is there any way to switch it to the English dictionary?

This answer is for iOS 7, maybe 6.

The question might be stale, but the ANSWER (if folks are on iOS7, maybe 6) is this:

Look up a word in iBooks, or in any App that has 'Define' flyouts from text. You'll get to the Definition UI which is in Japanese… if you can't read it go for the button on the lower left.
At the bottom of the definitions, you'll see 2 'buttons', from Left to Right: "Manage" and "Search Web". You should see this whenever you get UI to invoke iOS's Dictionary (which is not an App like it is on OS X)
Hit "Manage" and now you have a list of Dictionaries that you can enable/disable. AFAIK, enabling and disabling is global, so if you do it in iBooks it'd be the same in TweetBot, etal.

To conclude: There's no direct access to the Dictionary.app in iOS, even in Settings.app. You have to define a word, and manage dictionaries from there.


Use multiple speakers to play 2 ch audio My macbook pro has 2 built in speakers and a line-out for audio.

Additionally, I have it connected to my cinema display wich also has 2 speakers.

I want to know how to combine them to use all of them to play my musics so it does't just come from a single output.

Audio MIDI Setup to the rescue!

Open Audio MIDI Setup which is located in Applications > Utilities.

Click the + icon in the bottom-left hand side and choose Create Multi-Output Device.

When the multi-output device is selected, click the Built-In Output, and the Cinema Display's output audio devices.

After this is done, open System Preferences and click the Sound category. Under the Output tab, choose the Multi-Output device.

Any applications that were open when you started this process may have to be restarted in order to pick up the change in default sound devices. Some do, some don't.

I do believe that should do it.


Sluggish 2013 21.5" El Capitan iMac My second hand 2013 iMac has been running really slowly.

I have already done a complete wipe and reinstall, but that didn't help.

trying to get to the bottom of this, and suspecting imminent HDD failure, I booted from a USB El Capitan installer, then ran diskutil in Terminal, and discovered a whole bunch of additional disk images.

dev/disk0 is the internal physical disk, formatted as GUID journalled, with the EFI partition at 209.7MB, and the main Apple_HFS partition.

dev/disk1 is my USB Flash installer, also with EFI partition of 209.7MB and the main Apple_HFS partition.

dev/disk2 is a GUID disk image (Recovery Partition?), with a 209.7MB EFI partition and a 6.5GB Install ESD partition.

Here's where it gets weird: Disk3 is also a GUID disk image, with a 2 GB Apple_HFS OS X Base System. These four devices show up in the GUI Disk Utility.

Then I have disk4 through disk16, with no type and named "untitled", 7 of which are 524.3 KB (disk5 through disk9 & disk13), 2 are 6.3MB (disk10 & disk16), 1 is 5.2MB (disk4), then 2.1MB disk3), 2 are 1.0MB (disk12 & disk15).

If I do diskutil info /dev/disk'n', I get the following Mount Points:

 /dev/disk4 - Mount Point: /private/var/log
 /dev/disk6 - Mount Point: /private/var/tmp
 /dev/disk7 - Mount Point: /private/var/run
 /dev/disk8 - Mount Point: /System/Installation
 /dev/disk9 - Mount Point: /private/var/db
 /dev/disk10 - Mount Point: /private/var/folders
 /dev/disk11 - Mount Point: /private/var/root/library
 /dev/disk13 - Mount Point: /Library/Preferences
 /dev/disk14 - Mount Point: /Library/Preferences/SystemConfiguration
 /dev/disk15 - Mount Point: /Library/Keychains
 /dev/disk16 - Mount Point: /private/var/tmp/RecoveryTemp

I tried running fdisk -i -a hfs /dev/disk'n' (where 'n' is the number of the disk I want to remove), but I get "Resource busy" for all of them except dev/disk12, where I got "could not open MBR file /usr/standalone/i386/boot0: No such file or directory"…

I then get:
————————————————————————————————————————————————--
———- ATTENTION - UPDATING MASTER BOOT RECORD ————-     —————————————————————————————————————————————————-

Do you wish to write new MBR and partition table? [n]

How do I get rid of these additional disks?

TIA!

I smell an impending death of a hard drive. For that case, I suggest an upgrade to an SSD will do. Not only you have a newer storage device but also you have a faster computer altogether.

On a side note, if an SSD isn't your fancy, you can always purchase a new HDD, but go for the better models since it will benefit you more in the long run.


PDF Searching/Http Syncing on iPad I have two requirements with handling PDFs on an iPad, but I can't seem to find one app that will solve the problem. I was hoping the iOS 4.2 update would address this, but it doesn't.

Here are my requirements:

I need to be able to search for words in a PDF.
I need to have this PDF sync to a HTTP url. That is to say, I want my PDF on my iPad to be the exact same (the latest revision) of my PDF on my HTTP server.

The ideal solution would be able to just use Safari and open up the PDF via Safari. However, with Safari, I can't search for text within a PDF.

Any thoughts on how I can solve my problem? Any apps out there that will do this? iBooks or Goodreader don't.

Thanks in advance.

DropBox and iAnnotate, and since iAnnotate supports DropBox you really only work with one program as requested.


MacBook with Windows keyboard Problem occurs when pressing the @ and the " keys.  They seem to be mapped to each other, so @ -> " and " -> @.
The system preferences allow modifier keys to be re-mapped but not these two.
Can it be done?

That sounds like the main difference between a US and a UK keyboard. On a UK keyboard the " is above the number 2, and on a US keyboard the @ is above the 2.

Is the keyboard UK or US?

And is the Mac set to have a UK or a US keyboard attached?


Pair Apple Watch again without erasing I have accidentally unpaired my Apple Watch on my iPhone. I need to pair my watch with the same iPhone again.

(But I think the same problem can probably be faced if one gets a new iPhone with an already paired watch.)

The Apple Watch is fully working. I can open the apps, see my clock-face and so on. But in the menu bar, there is a red strikethrough iPhone icon.

If I open the Apple Watch app on my iPhone and tap on start pairing, my Apple Watch does not show the pairing image as it did first after unboxing it.

Do I need to completely erase my watch or is there somehow an option to start pairing my watch again?

According to my space usage on my iPhone (Settings > General > Usage > Manage Storage), I do have a backup on my iPhone. But this is some days ago and I do not want to lose my (activity) data – so erasing my watch is really my last choice.

To put it in a nutshell: How do I pair my iPhone with my watch again without erasing it?

I was experiencing this problem when i had my phone on my desk and I would walk away from it. When I came back I found that the watch would refuse to re-pair with my phone again.

I found a quick way to force the watch to re-pair with my phone:

Flick up on the watch face to get to the "Glances" menu
Tap the airplane button to turn on Airplane mode
Tap the airplane button again to turn off airplane mode
Within a few seconds the watch will re-pair with the phone


How to rotate photos sent in whatsapp in iPhone 6s Recently I switched to iPhone otherwise was an Android user.

I am trying to rotate the photo sent to my whatsapp messages left/right like within the app like there is a option in android. i can't find it in iPhone.

Note: i am strictly not asking about the auto screen rotation.

To rotate a photo on an iPhone and share it with Whatsapp:

Go into the Photos app
Navigate to the photo you'd like to rotate & share
Once viewing the photo in full screen, if the toolbar and navigation bar are not showing, tap the center of the screen
Hit the Edit button on the top-right (note: if you're running the iOS 10 Beta, you'll need to hit the slider button on the bottom toolbar)
Hit the crop & rotate button (should be on the bottom left)
Press the rotate button (should be towards the bottom on the left) until the picture is rotated correctly
Hit the yellow Done button
Press the share/export button (should be in the bottom-left again)
If you don't see Whatsapp in the list of apps you can share the photo to, scroll all the way to the end of the app list to the more button, hit the more button, and turn Whatsapp on.
Exit out of the More menu and hit Whatsapp, at which point you can share your correctly rotated photo to Whatsapp.

Let me know if this helps!


Can I save my free upgrade to Lion? I've bought a MacBook Pro 8,1 one month ago. Snow Leopard was pre-installed on it. Yesterday, I did the free upgrade, provided by Apple. I received a code for the App Store. I filled it in, and I got immediately the OS X Lion upgrade tool (after downloading). But is there a way to put the new OS X, on a DVD as backup?

Please, keep in mind that everything is legal.

Thanks.

From your question it is ambiguous whether you want to

a) Be able to reinstall Lion in future, if, say your HD crashed.

or

b) Save your Lion install to prevent having to download it again.

or

c) Create a bootable install disk.

If a):

The Apple Recovery Disk Assistant will create a rescue disk for you on a USB drive. Follow this link:

http://support.apple.com/kb/DL1433

When you use it, the latest version of Lion will be downloaded from their servers. NB You do not need a copy of your Snow Leopard install disk to use this.

If b)

You need to save the "Install Mac OS X Lion" app which is downloaded from the app store when you install Lion. The other answer here by bmike will tell you how to do that.

if c) see:

http://lifehacker.com/5823096/how-to-burn-your-own-lion-install-dvd-or-flash-drive

Regarding legality: a) and b) are permitted by Apple, c) is probably not.


How to prevent Terminal from resizing when font size is changed 10.8.3/Terminal 2.3.

Terminal resizes the entire window in seemingly unpredictable ways whenever I change the size of the font -- a frequent operation when frequently going between laptop and external displays.

Is there some way to prevent this?  iTerm seems to do the same thing.

Update:  Based on @robmathers' answer below, it seems likely that what I want isn't possible.  Can anyone recommend any OS X terminal emulators that don't have this feature?

Old question here ... but thought I'd add that this has been supported in iTerm for almost two years now https://gitlab.com/gnachman/iterm2/issues/2900

Just uncheck the "Adjust window when changing font size" box in the preferences.

2020 Update

The box is now here:


Can Textmate nicely indent HTML? Does Textmate have a function to nicely indent HTML?

HTML Tidy indents it - but it seems to delete tags as well. (This isn't completely proper HTML, but still!)

        <title></title>

Test

You can press ⌘+A to select all then Text->Indent Selection.


How to snooze reminders on the notification screen? In iOS 7, when a Reminder notification showed up on the Lock screen, I could tap it to Snooze it.  Since I upgraded to iOS 8, the option is no longer there..

Am I missing something simple?  Or is it simply no longer there?

The answer is actually simple...  Just swipe the notification to the left and you get the Snooze selection.


Worn out (stripped) screws in Macbook Pro - how to remove? I was planning to remove my cdrom and add a second HD in my Macbook Pro (2011), but I can't remove the screws. It seems they are stripped, even though I've been really careful (they are really tight).

Some images

Anyone had a similar problem before? Which is the best way to remove them? Would Apple authorized places remove it?

I would use locking pliers to take it off, then take the screw to a local fastenings store who should be able to sell you a similarly sized screw with exactly the same thread.

You may want to add Loctite, Apple usually uses Blue 242 Loctite on their screws. You can get cheaper brands, but make sure it's coloured blue — that's the strength of the glue.


Text message archive? Occasionally my ex and i will have texting conversations.  I would like to be able to save these digitally for my records.  Is there a way to save these conversations as a text file?  Right now I only know how to send myself an email with a singular text.  Not useful for a 50 text back and forth conversation about our kids.  I have an iphone 6

Depending on what you need to use it for and if you have a Mac or PC, there are multiple solutions:

On a Mac: for example use http://www.ecamm.com/mac/phoneview/, can also Google for alternatives

On a PC: the PC counterpart is http://www.copytrans.net/download.php

Since you mention your ex and your son, you might need these for legal purposes (hope not for you!).
In this case screenshots might be your best bet, as your lawyer might want to see those if things get rough (still your iPhone will be the best resource, so don't delete them there):
Scroll to the top of the messages you need

If timestamps are of value, swipe in from right side of screen to
show them
Press the power button (top right of iPhone) and the Home button
at the same time for ~1.5 secs and release
Scroll down so the last sentence which you just screenshotted is
shown at the top (thus the order of messages can easily be deducted)
Repeat steps 2 and 3 as often as needed

Good luck!


Assigning keyboard shortcut to iOS User Agent in Safari's develop menu I am trying to assign a keyboard shortcut to the Develop > User Agent > Safari iOS 8.1 - iPhone menu item of Safari web browser. But in the System Preferences > Keyboard > App Shortcuts, when I enter Safari iOS 8.1 - iPhone, the keyboard shortcut does not work.

I suppose that hyphen [-] like character that appears in the user agent menu is some other character. Can somebody tell what character is that so that I can the keyboard shortcut working.

That looks like an n-dash to me, rather than a hyphen

Hyphen -

N-dash —

typing 2 hyphens will change to an n-dash in regular text areas, if you have Smart dashes enabled in Edit > Substitutions, otherwise you could try copy/pasting this one...

Safari iOS 8.1 — iPad


Cannot join wifi network - "please move closer" I have a macbook pro running osx. It is identical to many others in my office. I am the only one who cannot connect to the office wifi network. I can connect to other networks just fine, but when I try to connect to this one specific network a dialog box replies with

The Wi-Fi network "office" could not be joined.

Try moving closer to your wireless router. Alternatively, run Wireless Diagnostics to troubleshoot.

Moving closer is not the solution. Diagnostics spits a lot of info, within which the wifi log is contained. During the join attempt the wifi log reported:

Tue Apr 22 14:37:28.028 <airportd[101]> composeEFIJoinParam: Invalid security type
Tue Apr 22 14:37:28.029 <airportd[101]> writeRecoveryNetworksToNVRAM: could not compose EFI join params
Tue Apr 22 14:37:28.029 <airportd[101]> _handleNewMessage: Received XPC message, event = USER_REQUEST_EVENT, pid = 175
Tue Apr 22 14:37:28.029 <airportd[101]> _handleNewMessage: Received XPC message, event = DEBUG_FLAGS_EVENT, pid = 1023

How can I solve this?

Just to make sure, check with network admin that your MAC address is not blocked :)

The message posted indicates you might have a Firewall setting issue.

Open About this Mac + more info + system report and find the Firewall. Check the settings there making sure it is not blocking that network somehow.

Also make sure you do not have a 3D party Network software blocking that connection like Little Snitch or others.

Lets try to connect manually, using the Terminal:

Follow this guide to connect using copy paste.

In Terminal type following (to turn the airport on)

networksetup -setairportpower en0 on

Next type (to scan for networks and find the one you want)

/System/Library/PrivateFrameworks/Apple80211.framework/Versions/A/Resources/airport scan

Finally type (to connect)

networksetup -setairportnetwork en0 WIFI_SSID_I_WANT_TO_JOIN WIFI_PASSWORD

If the password is something weird like ASCI or HEX follow this guide.


Can you customize the install of Xcode from the Mac App Store? I'd prefer not to install the whole iOS SDK with Xcode, just the gcc toolchain for my own console applications and school work. I know for the old Xcode installs it was possible to customize the install and deselect it, but I'm not sure how the Mac App Store handles it and I'd like to know before I buy it and try to install it. The iOS SDK is a good 4-5 gigs of overhead I have no need for, and with an SSD I'm trying to save space wherever I can.

Don't accept this answer without vetting it further first, but I think I noticed something during my install.

I think that you don't get any SDKs as part of the XCode 4 install. It was only after I installed XCode 4 and launched it, that the project window showed a download in progress. Clicking it gave me the option of downloading: OSX 10.6 SDK, Legacy OSX SDK, iOS SDK, and something else that I don't remember at the moment. Perhaps extended documentation.

So, the XCode install itself is still very heavy. What with XCode visually, all it's associated applications and libraries, Clang/LLVM/LLDB, profiling tools, and everything.

But, the SDKs themself? I don't think it comes automatically. I can't seem to figure out how to get back to choose the other SDKs to download, so I'm not 100% sure in this.


Is there any way to hook up a U3011 30" (2560x1600) monitor to my MBP? My MBP (GeForce GT 330M) seems to recognize my Dell U3011, but I've run into the following:

Mini-DP to VGA adapter to monitor: Supports up to the VGA max of 2048x1280 just fine.
Mini-DP to DP adapter to monitor: Flickering to the point where it's dark 98% of the time.
Mini-DP to monitor using M-M Mini-DP to DP cable: Supports up to 1600x1200 fine, but silently fails (nothing shows up on the monitor above that).

I've borrowed a co-worker's $100 Apple dual-link DVI adapter and that works fine, but I'd like not to spring for one and just have the DisplayPort work like it should. Is there anything I can do? The Mac doesn't seem to complain; it just fails.

I have a Dell U3011 running at 2560x1600 (native resolution) connected via a mini-dp to dp cable. This is working correctly on both my MBP mid 2009 with a NVIDIA GeForce 9400m and a  MB Air mid 2011 with an Intel HD 3000. Both computers can detect that they are connected to a Dell U3011 and allow me to choose the native resolution.

I am using a mini-display port to display port cable purchased at monoprice with product id 6007. The specs state that it is display port version 1.1 (8.64 Gbps) capable. Maybe the mini-dp to dp cable you are testing with does not have enough throughput?


Is there a way to disable dragging (drag-n-drop) in a read-write dmg file? I´m creating a dmg image that should be able to use drag-n-drop of a folder onto an application.

The user installs my app by dragging a folder onto an application (.app) that is made by Automator and installs the folder by copying it to the correct location. It does not install into the Applications folder, it´s in the User´s own directories. So not something one can use an Alias or symlink for.

The only problem is that the DMG converted to read-only (compressed, in Disk Utility) does not allow one to drop anything into anything, not even onto my little install app. (! :/)

One solution is to use a read-write DMG file. Not a good alternative. The user will mess up the order or positioning of the folders and files before installing and come back to a messed up installer app later on, for next time around. Also, it does not auto-open on double-clicking on the .dmg. That´s why you make them read-only.

So, can I disable dragging and essentially "lock" the file´s location in the read-write enabled DMG file format?

For solutions, any way is interesting, by terminal or any app.

It is not possible to disable drag-n-dropping of icons in Finder for a specific read-write DMG from within the DMG.

You should consider creating your installer in a different manner. For example consider using a read-only DMG with an app inside that the user needs to double click. When double clicked it will present a window allowing the user to drag-n-drop onto that area and doing whatever you wanted doing initially.


Play The Sims 3 on Mac with Intel HD 3000 Can I play The Sims 3 on my MacBook? It has only an Intel HD 3000 integrated graphics chip.

That chipset is capable of running a hell of a lot more than The Sims, however you haven't stated your OS version, processor, or memory, but based on what MacBook systems have that graphics chipset, you shouldn't have any problems.

The minimum specs for the game are:

  Mac

  Mac OS X v10.5.7 or later
  Intel Core Duo processor
  2GB of RAM
  6.1GB of free hard-disk space minimum (with at least 1GB of additional space for custom content and saved games)
  128MB of VRAM
  ATI X1600 or Nvidia 7300 GT or Intel Integrated GMA X3100
  DVD drive

  Note: This game will not run on systems using PowerPC processors (G3/G4/G5) or the Intel GMA 950 class of integrated cards


Unable to call FaceTime only to a particular caller ID I am using iPhone 4 with iOS 6, and my boyfriend is using iPhone 5 with iOS 6 (recently upgraded to iOS 7).

Whenever I called him from my iPhone, it would say "Connecting..." when he picked up, and then after a few seconds it would say "Connection Lost". I tried a lot of times and it never worked.

Then I have my Mac setup with Facetime, and I was able to call his phone. And then I tried to use my iPhone to call my Mac (different ID), and it was connected. And then I tried to use my iPhone to call a friend's iPhone 4, and it also worked. So the problem is not on the iPhone.

So here's the summary:

iPhone 4 calling iPhone 5 didn't work
Mac calling iPhone 5 worked
iPhone 4 calling another iPhone 4 worked
iPhone 4 calling Mac worked

Any idea?

FaceTime requires a very strong network connection, so I believe your issue has less to do with the device, and more to do with the type of connections you trying to use.

FaceTime works best with a solid wifi connection on both ends, or at least LTE. If either device is trying to use 3G or 4G, you will struggle to establish or maintain a decent connection.

To test this, I would ensure you are both on a good wifi connection and try it again to see how it works. If not, then you have deeper compatibility issues.

P.S. I would recommend upgrading your iPhone 4 to iOS 7.1. It has improved performance over 7.0.x and will help alleviate further compatibility issues.


After restoring my iPhone from iCloud, my photos are all low resolution. How can I fix this? I restored my iPhone 4S from iCloud after recieving a replacement one from the Apple store. It took many hours for The applications and photos to come back but once restored, all of the photos on the iPhone are now low resolution.

How can I restore the photos, which were backed up to iCloud, back to my iPhone in their original resolution?

According to this site it is a limitation of iCloud. You can, however, download the full-resolution images from iCloud to your computer. So you haven't lost the high-res versions, you just have to pull them over through local syncing and not iCloud.


How can I get an iPhone to play songs in order I'm trying to listen to an album on my iPhone. The play plays the songs randomly. I would like to hear the album in sequence.

I also have playlists that I'd like to listen to in sequence.

When I look at the list of songs in the playlist the controls at the top available to me are "Edit" "Clear" "Delete" and under that "Shuffle". But "Shuffle" doesn't seem to be a toggle switch. It's more like it means "reshuffle."

So anyway where do I set the music play to just play the songs in order?

Is it possible that you have shuffle enabled? The shuffle button in the playlist list is not a toggle, so that wouldn't tell you. Here's how you can find out:

If the shuffle icon is blue, it means your iPhone is playing on shuffle.

Something else you could check is if Shake to Shuffle is enabled:

If it is, you could accidentally activate shuffle without knowing it.

Hope this helps.


Upgrading Macbook Pro memory I've seen on the Apple support site, that my Macbook Pro (late 2008) will support up to 4GB at 1066Mhz is this the actual maximums or will I be able to install say 8GB 1333Mhz memory?

Also I have different memory that appear identical:

http://www.dabs.com/products/kta-2gb-ddr3-1066-module-65L8.html?refs=4294946774
http://www.dabs.com/products/2gb-ddr3-1066-module-6DLP.html?refs=4294946774

Is either of these RAM suitable? the specs seem to match the listing on the Apple support site?

There are two different "late 2008" MacBook Pros. There's the 17" which was the last of the old "AlBook" designs, and the 15" that was the first unibody MBP. The former will take up to 8GB, but can only address 6GB; the latter will take 8GB after downloading and applying the most recent EFI firmware update.


Can't download High Sierra from the Mac App Store When I click "Download" in the High Sierra page in Mac App Store, the button turns into a gray "Downloading" button and might even show an estimated download time but after a while it turns into a gray "Download" button that isn't clickable anymore.

This happens on my 2 Mac's: a Mac Mini running Sierra and a MacBook Pro (13-inch, Mid 2012) running High Sierra Beta (17A360a).

Update: I've just restarted the download and it estimates about 1 hour to download the ~5GB of the installer. If I start another simultaneous download in the network (iOS update, for example), the transfer time starts to increase and if it reaches some value over 15h the App Store quits the download. This happens even if the installer download is still active, only at a slower rate, as can be verified by looking for "OS update" in the Console app.

Update 2: it seems the problem I was facing with the download “fixed itself”. Since yesterday I managed 2 full downloads without any issues on my 2 Macs.

You can't  update because your system is running with a higher beta Version of OS X.
Leave Apple beta Program with the devices and wait for a greater update than the system have at the moment.

If you need help leaving the beta Program check this:
https://beta.apple.com/sp/betaprogram/unenroll


Adding copyright info on each photo using iPhoto Is it possible to add copyright information, or a logo, on the pictures themselves (bottom right corner for instance) for a selection of photos, at once, using iPhoto ?

If iPhoto is not the right app to do it, what would be a free tool to do it ?

Your best bet would be to use an application such as ExifShopper, which allows you view/edit image Exif information; It's free and also let's you do batch jobs. I wouldn't recommend iPhoto for doing this, people have complained quite often about it corrupting Exif data, etc.

If you're looking to watermark your images try iWatermark.


Is there a way to play 5.1 surround via Apple TV? I have several albums on DVD with both Dolby Digital 5.1 and DTS 5.1 versions. I'd like to be able to listen to them without dealing with physical disks all the time.

I have no problem using ffmpeg to pull the audio data out and stick it in a file, but I haven't been able to find the magic format that will let it play via Apple TV. I've read that the Apple TV doesn't need to understand the format, it just needs to send the data to a receiver that does, which makes perfect sense, but how do I get it to do that? I can't get a WAV containing DTS to work.

If the solution ends up being to stick the AC3 data in a video container, that's fine, but ideally, I just want to store/play the audio (and ideally, it would be the DTS version).

I have both a 1st and a 3rd generation Apple TV (a.k.a. the Apple TV 2 with 1080p support), so any solution, old or new, will do.

Yes. The Apple TV can pass through 5.1 AC-3 to a receiver if you set up the file correctly. Apple has the full details in a knowledge base article, but basically you need to set up your mp4/m4v file with a stereo AAC as the default audio track, then put your AC-3 track after it, disabled. On the Apple TV, you need to enable it by turning on Dolby Digital Out in the Audio Settings.


Making a digital TV out of cinema display I have an old cinema display 20", and I'd like to ask if I can make a digital TV out of this display.

Can I buy any tuner for it? What more do I have to buy if necessary?
What kind of tuners are in the market? What do you recommend?

The answer is that it depends on what you have at the moment.  If you just have a cable outlet in the wall and the cinema display then yes you need something in between such as a tuner.  The type of tuner will depend on the type of signal being sent by your cable TV provider (digital/analogue).  Then you'll need a cable which will connect the tuner to the cinema display and you'll also need separate speakers.  This also means that your tuner will have to have an audio outlet to connect to the speakers.

With a standard analog TV signal, the TV itself is the tuner.  With a digital signal the tuner can be built into the tv or it can be in a set-top box.  To make the cinema display function as a TV you need to have a digital signal and then you need a set-top box which would allow you to change channels.

To recommend specific tuners etc. you would have to describe specifically what your cable TV connection is and how you are expected to connect it to an ordinary TV.  Then you can work on figuring out how to connect the cinema display which is just like a digital TV with no speakers and no remote.


Apple Mail with Gmail Account (IMAP): Moving Mails from inbox to folders fails I have a Gmail account (gmail 1), and if I'm moving email from Inbox to an IMAP folder, the email disappears from Inbox and after changing the folder and going back to Inbox the moved mail is back in my Inbox.

I just created a new Gmail account (gmail 2) and tried it with this account. The behaviour is like expected: moved emails don't re-appear in their old folder.

Now, I don't know how to fix this. I've checked the account settings from both accounts, the new one and the old one and I can't find a settings difference to fix this problem.

I made a short 30sec movie about the problem.

The following solved the issue for me:

Gmail Settings:

Inbox → Categories:
Select only Primary
Inbox → Importance markers:
No marker
Inbox → Filtered mail:
Override filters
Forwarding and POP/IMAP → IMAP Access:
When I mark a message in IMAP as deleted: Auto-Expunge off
When a message is marked as deleted and expunged from the last visible IMAP folder: Move the message to the Trash


Are iPhone replacements for software issues free? iPhone 6 is not under warranty (no Apple Care+ either), but Apple Support on the phone offered a replacement phone that I pick up at the store (no mention of cost, did not ask) because of an issue with the phone that I did not cause (no physical damage). So, will this be a complimentary iPhone replacement or will it cost money like a screen repair?

Edit: It was, in the end, replaced free of charge.

It might be free. I had an iPhone 6 replaced for free just last month. The iPhone was 6 months out of warranty, no AppleCare, but was having battery problems. Apple determined the battery was defective and replaced it for free.


iMac Internet Surfing Issue I have an iMac (Retina 5K 27", Mid 2015) with OS X Yosemite v10.10.2. I am connecting to my network with a cable but when i type an address or refresh the page, the loading icon appears in favicon, but it keeps turning forever and the page is doing nothing. I have to refresh or re-enter the site like 4 or 5 times to make it work. Sometimes even that is not enough. I am pressing stop several times and refreshing it to make it work.

1) I have encountered this situation both on Chrome and Safari. Don't think this is browser based.

2) I have switched from cable to Wi-Fi but same problem still continuous.

3) There are 7 machines in my network, 6 Windows + 1 Mac, but Windows computers are not experiencing this issue. Everything is fine for them.

4) We are not using a server in the network. Computers are directly accessing the switch or access point and those are reaching the modem directly.

This really annoying. Can anybody help?

Check your network connection.

Open System Preferences
Click on Network, on the button Assist me... and then on diagnostics.
Choose your Network e.g. LAN and check the connection.

If you have at this point no problems

Click on the Network Window on the button Options.. and to the DNS Register.
Check if any other DNS entries are there unless the standard entries from your Router.
If additional entries you can delete them if you click on the minus (-) button below.

Check if the problem exists.

If you have any Network Software or (bad Antivirus) on your mac, please disable temporary.

Clear the System Caches in that order...

Restart your mac and hold down the shift-Key during startup.
This will start in the Safe Mode. You no need to login, after the startup is done, you can restart your mac.
During startup hit the buttons Command + ALT (Option) + R to boot into internet Recovery.
Choose from there Disk Utility, check and repair the permissions of your System drive.
Restart in normal Mode and check if the problem exists.


Should I format my disk when reinstalling macOS? I'm having some issues with my 16 inch MacBook Pro. It restarts and gives me the "Your computer was restarted because of a problem." prompt. It has done that 5 or 6 times so far. I was advised to do a recovery.

Apparently, you can reinstall macOS without wiping the disk. You can also reinstall and wipe as well. And if you go even further, you can reinstall and start from scratch without any data or apps.

Is it preferable to go all the way and start from the beginning, like how it was on the day it shipped?

Yes - it’s the perfect time and often sets you up for the best experience.
Your question is hard to answer absolutely since it does take a bit more time and some people don’t have confidence or skill in their backups. You can’t get the image Apple provides since it has non-registered versions of the free apps to claim. But on all the supported OS (N-2 with N being Catalina on October 1, 2020) are free and you can download them easily after an erase. I especially recommend an erase install if you want to be sure the hardware isn’t the cause of issues. You don’t have a better test than this in my experience.
Installing on top of a corrupt partition / volume / system won’t fix that, but will restore the OS cleanly. Make a backup and check your important files are intact on the backup and erase-install is my go to move.
You get to test a clean slate and then do the erase a second time if needed then restore files back. It takes a little extra time, but you never have to redo a step and build confidence the hardware is good sooner than an overlay install.


where is the Documents folder shown in iFile (iPad-Air)? There is a folder called Documents (and other folders beside that) in iFile

I tried but can't find the physical location with iFunbox or iTools.

How can I find the physical location of that folder?

When using a system that doesn't know how to follow POSIX symbolic links (like iFunbox), then you're going to need to know the actual location of the directory. When using iFile, it'll appear to be located at /var/mobile/Documents/, but in reality, /var is a symbolic link to /private/var/. So the answer to your question is: The Documents folder is located at /private/var/mobile/Documents/.


Incoming emails going to trash (no rules set) Lots of incoming mails skip the inbox and go directly to the trash folder (not the junk folder). When I visit my Trash folder I see a huge number of unread messages from legit senders.

I have Mail.app linked to my Exchange account for work (this is the only linked account).
Messages I send myself via my work's SMTP server always go to trash.
Incoming messages that I manually flag as Junk sometimes go to the Junk folder, and sometimes they show up in the Inbox, but they never go to the Trash folder.
I have no rules of any kind set up in Mail.app, and I never did.

My question is, who is the culprit - Mail.app, Exchange, or my work's SMTP server?
How do I find out?

As mentioned in a comment by @negacao another way to view mailbox rules is to use the webapp:
Webapp -> Gear Icon -> Options -> Organize Mail -> Inbox Rules

There was, in fact, a rule set there which I had completely forgotten about. Disabling the rule allows messages to come to the inbox from the SMTP server, which indicates this was the root of the problem.
This same rule is not visible anywhere within Mail.app, for some reason.
The moral of the story for me is, "when in doubt, check the webapp".


Something new on NFC capability on iOS12? In lack of information - Google didn't help me - does anyone know about possible new capabilities regarding NFC functionality on iPhone with iOS12?
There were several rumours that iOS12 will have a larger scope for using NFC on iPhone than just Apple Pay.
Background: I'm interested using the iPhone for unlocking our company's door than using those lousy rfid tags. But my interest is not limited on this scenario.

Basically two new NFC features were released - however they are only available on select newer phones, so there's not really any change if you have an older phone.

The new features are available on iPhone XS, iPhone XS Max and iPhone XR.

Feature 1: Express Card

This makes it possible for the phone to work as a NFC card for stuff like student cards, entry cards, transportation tickets - when the battery is dead! The idea is that even when the phone is shut down due to lack of battery, the phone can still be used as a valid NFC card for approx. 5 hours.

The feature is only available for (few) select cards that are stored in the Wallet.

Feature 2: Background Tag Reading

The phone is now always "listening" for NFC tags. You can read a tag without unlocking your phone, and it will show a small notification that you can activate to go into the app that is registered to handle that type of NFC tag.

Previously you had to open the app first, and then read the tag.


Wifi Direct Support on iOS Devices I am getting a lot of conflicting information to this simple question.

Basically I need to understand which devices will support WiFi direct. Is this device specific or is this iOS specific?

Can I run a Wifi Direct App on say a iPhone 4s with iOS 7?

How about a iPad Mini and iOS 8?

Theoretically the device list is as follows, running iOS 7 or later:

iPhone 5 or later
iPad (4th generation or later)
iPad mini
iPod touch (5th generation)

That said, this is the compatibility list for AirDrop which uses WiFi Direct as of iOS 7. Your mileage may vary with apps that are not utilizing AirDrop for the WiFi Direct functionality.


How to disable Magic Trackpad while typing? Is it possible to get the external Magic Trackpad disabled automatically while I'm typing?

I do get a lot of cursor movements/clicks when just touching the trackpad accidentally.

You could just goto your Bluetooth icon in the menu bar and disconnect it till you wish to start using it again, then goto said menu again and reconnect it.


Unable to execute JAR file I wrote a small Java desktop application using NetBeans, Java 8 and JavaFX 8 on my MacBook running macOS High Sierra. I can launch it from Terminal by executing a Bash script (mentioned below), but double clicking on the JAR in Finder fails (right clicking and selecting Open fails too) and I receive a suggestion that I look for errors in Console.app, but get no other clue as to what's failing. It's a very specialized app that I'll probably only distribute to a couple of co-workers who don't work in Terminal.

Google search has given me solutions that are out of date, the Oracle solution (out of date) provided a link that proved useless.

What do I need to do to be able make the JAR file executable from Finder? How can I get more information on what's wrong? Since it's not signed it might be that Gatekeeper is the culprit.

My script is in ~/bin which is included in PATH. I have a folder, ~/jars for Java apps, each of which has its own folder. In that folder I have copied my project-> ... dist app.jar and my libs folder that has external jar libraries. The script has execute permissions. Here is the script:

#!/bin/bash
java -jar $HOME/jars/myApp/myApp.

I can launch the app from Terminal or from Finder but the first time finder will think I want to edit it so I must choose Other and then choose Terminal.  BTW it works exactly the same in Ubuntu, I just copied the script, dropped it into ~/bin, and dropped the myApp folder in ~/jars.  It mostly ran but the JRE on the Ubuntu machine, while Java 8, is a little older version than the one on my Mac and I get a run time error after a while. I think that updating to the same version will solve the problem as I don't know how to force NetBeans to include the JRE.

In my case, I had a Netbeans app that I developed in Snow Leopard and was unable to open by double-clicking in High Sierra.

Instead of copying over just the app's .jar, I copied the dist directory that contained the app's .jar plus the library directory that contains 6 other .jar files that were added when I originally compiled the distribution version.

Double-clicking the app's .jar still didn't work, but I was able to launch "my_app.jar" from the terminal by cd-ing into the dist directory and using

  java -jar my_app.jar

(NB: I have the latest JDK installed.)


iPhone Reminders how to determine account How do I see which account my lists belongs to in the Reminders app? I'm using an iPhone with iOS 7.

When you open the reminders app, it will either show a display of all the lists or show you the items in one list.

If you are in the detailed view, tap the white area at the bottom of the screen to bring up the List View.

Each list that is synced through a cloud service has that service listed in grey to the right of the item count. Those without text are stored on the device only.


Headphone symbol when headphones not in use On my iPhone 5s I see a symbol for headphones next to the battery usage symbol. This only appears when the headphones are NOT plugged in. Also I am unable to get a sound notification for mail or messages. I think these are related problems.

The headphone symbol is shown when you are connected to Bluetooth headphones/speakers, which would be true if you have a Bluetooth device auto-connecting (which would not be used when you plug in headphones). Go to Settings → Bluetooth and see which device you are connected to, and disconnect if you wish. Sound notifications will be routed to this device so that is why you do not hear them.

If you no longer want to use Bluetooth to connect to these particular headphones/speakers (i.e. you only want to use a cable) you can also forget the device in the same settings by tapping on the info symbol  and selecting Forget this Device. This will stop your iPhone from auto connecting to them. If you decide in the future you'd like to use Bluetooth again, you can pair your headphones to your iPhone again later.


My mac keeps changing screenshot format to .tiff I use shift + control + command + 4 a lot.
The default fileformat in my case is .tiff.
I have tried to change it to .png using these setting:
https://www.laptopmag.com/articles/change-default-screenshot-file-format-macos

And I have tried to restart, but it does not seem to save the file in png in the clipboard which is what I'm interrested in.
I have a Macbook Pro 15¨ (with touchbar) from 2016. I'm running macOS 10.13.3.

Kind regards,
JJ

Try using Terminal, type the following command into Terminal and press Enter. This changes the file format to TIFF:

defaults write com.apple.screencapture type tiff;killall SystemUIServer


Which IP ranges and subnet does OSX internet connection sharing use by default? I'm using a TP-Link portable router to share a wireless internet connection from my mac to the router via ethernet. This seems to work but I notice that the IP on a device connected to the router is 192.168.2.14.

I'm curious to know which IP range internet connection sharing will use by default and whether this can be changed via the terminal.

I'm currently on Mountain Lion but also interested in any relevant differences in Mavericks.

ifconfig shows:

bridge0: flags=8863<UP,BROADCAST,SMART,RUNNING,SIMPLEX,MULTICAST> mtu 1500
    ether ac:de:48:08:15:b5
    inet 192.168.2.1 netmask 0xffffff00 broadcast 192.168.2.255
    Configuration:
        priority 0 hellotime 0 fwddelay 0 maxage 0
        ipfilter disabled flags 0x2
    member: en0 flags=3<LEARNING,DISCOVER>
             port 5 priority 0 path cost 0

Is this bridge the mechanism for internet sharing?

Sorry: I'm a bit short of time and so this isn't a complete answer, but hopefully it gives you a starting point.

From the answers to this question, it seems that /usr/libexec/InternetSharing creates /etc/bootpd.plist when Internet Sharing is turned on, and removes it again when it is turned off.  I think this file is the cause for the ifconfig values you are seeing.

On my machine, when it exists, among other things, that file contains

        <key>net_address</key>
        <string>192.168.2.0</string>
        <key>net_mask</key>
        <string>255.255.255.0</string>
        <key>net_range</key>
        <array>
            <string>192.168.2.2</string>
            <string>192.168.2.254</string>
        </array>

I'm guessing that 192.168.2 is the default range, as my machine is producing the same results as yours.

I think you could try modifying /etc/bootpd.plist once the file has been created to set your own range.  You might then need to restart bootp.

I don't know how to configure InternetSharing to use a different default.  (I had a brief look at /System/Library/CoreServices/InternetSharing.bundle and the output of strings /usr/libexec/InternetSharing, but couldn't see anything obvious.)  One of the answers  to the question I mentioned above suggests creating a cron job or launch agent to overwrite the /etc/bootpd.plist with the settings you require automatically.

These details are for Mavericks.  If I understand right, Mountain Lion uses named instead: see the question, and the article it refers to also.

However... bootp is only the subsystem that tells your other devices what addresses they should use (via DHCP).  The Mac also has to forward packets from those devices to your wireless connection, and vice versa.  I don't know how that forwarding is configured, and it might well be set up to forward only packets from/to the 192.168.2 subnet.


Binding modifier key to mouse button 4 using KeyRemap4MacBook I'm wanting to do this so when I'm gaming I can use the mouse button as my modifier "shift" key instead of having to actually hit ⇧+1 or ⇧+2. This will prevent me from having to take my fingers off of the "1-4" or "Q-R" keys in order to modify them to ⇧+1.

Some notes:

No Mouse Software Available from what I could fine.
KeyRemap4MacBook doesn't have the ability to directly let me do it, so I was hoping there might be someone who could help me with the code needed to add it to the program.
It doesn't just have to work for this mouse only as I'll essential always use it as a third shift key.
I think a global remap might be best.

I have no idea how much difference there is between KeyRemap4MacBook and Karabiner (minus Karabiner Elements), so I can't guarantee that this will work on older versions. KeyRemap4MacBook got a name change to "Karabiner" in 2014 I believe, so some of the documentation may not apply to it anymore.

I only have access to mac with Sierra, so I couldn't test it in any version.

Follow the instructions on how to add custom settings

Get back to this after you've completed step 3.

Ignore step 4 and replace the contents of private.xml with:

<?xml version="1.0"?>
<root>

  <item>
    <name>Mouse Button 4 to Shift</name>
    <identifier>MouseBtn4ToShift</identifier>
    <autogen>
      __KeyToKey__
        PointingButton::BUTTON4,
        KeyCode::SHIFT_L
    </autogen>
  </item>

</root>

Continue the instructions on how to add custom settings at step 5.

  If you're not 100% sure that it's actually button number 4 that you're pressing, you can use the EventViewer to check.

Just incase someone is interested:

Filter: Specify application
Filter: Specify device


Microphone not working after water spilled on iPad I accidentally spilled water on my iPad. I cleaned it up right away and it's perfectly fine. I can hear stuff and it turns on but when I call people, they can't hear me.

If some water got in the microphone it may still be damp.  You could try putting the iPad overnight in a sealed bag with a couple of handfuls of rice which will take up any dampness.


Why does my iMac freezes up intermittently? My iMac freezes up intermittently. The cursor can be moved but nothing responds. I just have to shut it down and restart. It's been doing this before and since my hard drive failed and was replaced. I'd also increased my memory from the original 4GB to 12GB thinking that was the problem.  But neither the HD replacement or the memory upgrade changed anything.  I can go for days, sometimes or a week or more without a problem. Then it'll freeze a couple of days in a row, or even twice in one day.

It's a late 2009 27" iMac, running Mavericks 10.9.4.

It could be that your iMac freezes because some component is getting too hot (in my opinion  Apple’s temperature thresholds are not setup for reliability, but rather for “comfort”).

You can list temperature sensors with:

iStat Pro (free, discontinued widget, but runs on High Sierra without a hitch)
Macs Fan Control (paid app)


Unable to open any applications Terminal System Prefs OSx has thrown a wobbly on me.

I cannot open any applications whatsoever.

When booting into safe mode:

Any time the system itself needs to be reinstalled, you can safely boot to recovery HD or internet recovery or bootable install media and then reinstall the core OS. This functions like the archive install of the old days where it sets aside your running system. Then a fresh system is installed and all users and data are migrated in to the new system.

This is super safe if you have a good backup and relatively safe even if you don't have a backup since it doesn't intentionally delete any user settings or data. You'd only lose your data and files if the system had errors anyway and that loss was just a matter of time.


How can I find out what is deleting my ~/.Trash folder? Some application or action is deleting my ~/.Trash directory. I obviously don't know when this happens, save for the "Are you sure you want to delete..." dialog box.

I can restore the Trash, by restarting the Finder, as per this question, but I would like to figure out what is doing this.

Is there a way to monitor a directory (i.e., .Trash) and determine when it changes? So when my Trash is deleted, I'll know.

Open Terminal.app
Type in (or better copy-paste ;): curl https://raw.github.com/gist/1043757/9b55d3ae174ea40a1ff3b031fec7f87c5a58aa0d/gistfile1.d > usage.d
Execute sudo dtrace -s usage.d

This will display every file deletion on your system. If you want to only display the deletion of "~/.Trash", add | grep .Trash to the last command.


How to prevent Terminal.app from displaying a tab bar when there is only one tab open The image below is the header that appears when I open Terminal.app.  As you can see, only one tab is open, but a tab bar still shows (just has one tab that says "bash").  How can I prevent the tab bar from showing unless there are >= 2 tabs?  It was working correctly until recently but I can't figure out what changed or how to fix.

Click "View" / "Hide Tab Bar" and the tab bar will go away and come back only when there is more than one tab open.


Replacement iPhone is missing web history I recently replaced my iPhone 6. The phone shows no web history. Can that be restored from original account?

Restoring from a backup of your device will restore the browser history.

If you've set up the device as new, you'll need to ensure iCloud was logged in on your old device and Safari turned on, and iCloud logged in to the same account on your new phone and Safari turned on there too.


2G iPod touch with iOS 4.2.1 I need a PDF reading app for my 2nd generation iPod touch. I downloaded Adobe Reader, Cloud Readers, iBooks and PDF Reader iPhone edition from the App Store, but all of them require iOS 5.

Please suggest the best PDF reading app for iOS 4.2.1, or suggest some steps to upgrade to iOS 5.

The 2nd generation iPod touch can’t be upgraded to iOS 5.

One PDF reader that still works on pre-iOS 5 devices is GoodReader, although according to their site it requires iOS 4.3.

If you connect your iPod touch to iTunes, then there should be an option to update to iOS 4.3. The instructions in this Apple Support article explain how to update an iOS 4 device (see Update your device using iTunes).

There may be other PDF readers that can run on iOS 4 devices, but I don’t know of any by name. Pre-iOS 5 devices are now a very thin sliver of the iOS installed base, so most developers have dropped support for them.


How to define a (ideally: global) keyboard shortcut for a particular letter plus diacritic? Is there a way to define (OSX natively, or alternatively: through some program) a global keyboard shortcut for a single letter plus diacritic, say: ctrl+alt+A gives "ä", ideally globally?

Note: I am aware of various ways to access diacritics faster (e.g. the "key repeat" diacritics menu), but I'd like to know if there's some way to get the exact behavior described above.

Does anyone knows if this is possible in OSX, and if so, how?

(EDIT) Thanks to a comment, I realize I should clarify my question.

I don't really care which modifier key I have to press, but what I want to do is:

[some modifier, e.g. alt or ctrl, or if necessary: two of them]

+

[some letter]

=> [a single letter with diacritic]

Now, I know that "alt-u plus letter" produces the corresponding "Umlaut" letter, but it's not exactly the same as the shortcut I ask about above. Ideally I would have the above version of a shortcut, because it is slightly unintuitive to me, and therefore a bit slower, to press a different vowel first, "u",  when I really want to produce another vowel afterwards, say, an "a" with diacritic, i.e. "ä".

So I am really just wondering: can I bind a shortcut as described above producing a single (Umlaut) letter of my choice.

The Karabiner and Ukelele apps should be able to bind keys the way you are requesting:

https://pqrs.org/osx/karabiner/

http://scripts.sil.org/ukelele


iPhoto failed to download After upgrading to Mountain Lion on my MacBook Pro, I noticed an update was available for iPhoto '11 (version 9.4)  I went to App Store -> Updates and it downloaded and than hung.  The message I received was

  iPhoto failed to download - Use the Purchases page to try again

I tried going through Purchases and get the same message.  I'm caught in the "loop" and don't know how to get out. Now there's a red letter message beside the UPDATE button that says "An error has occurred"...

How can I download this upgrade?

I had the same problem with a bunch of Apple apps. I restarted my computer a few times and they eventually went through. It has to be an issue on Apple's end because I had the issue on a brand new retina MacBook Pro with 10.8.2, and I don't muck around with any system stuff.


Finding videos in iCloud Do the videos you take on iPhone go to the iCloud? If so where do I find them on my computer? It didn't go where my pictures are.

No they don't get moved to the iCloud. At least not automatically. There is a feature called Photo Stream which does exactly that with photos. But there isn't a Video Stream (yet).

Note that iCloud backups do backup your videos (and hence go to iCloud), however, they are not user accessible (except in restoring an iDevice).


How do iOS devices perform on-device machine learning on photos while most of the photos are uploaded to iCloud? When iCloud photo is enabled, all photos are uploaded to iCloud and only a low-resolution copy is saved on the phone for browsing, the high res photo is download on-demand if the user clicks it.
Photos app will perform on-device machine learning when the device is not in use and is charging(typically while you’re sleeping) to detect faces in your photo library so that you have “people albums”. This is just one case that the app is using ML to achieve.
What confuses me is that the low res images are just not good enough to perform ML on, especially for face detection. So how can it analyze those low-res photos and giving the correct prediction?
I have two guesses:

Don’t care low or high res, just analyze what is on the device. (I don’t really believe this is the case as the face detection is too accurate to be believed that they were a result of ML on 480p photos)

On-demand loading, download the original photo from iCloud while the ML algorithm is running, and delete the original photo from the device when it is done. (Isn’t this a bandwidth waste for iCloud servers?)

Edit 1:
I’m interested in how will it handle the case when I manually added some photo to one person(this action causes the model to change, well, eventually change after it learns the new photos that weren’t detected previously), all photos must be analyzed again using the new model. At this time, most high-resolution images (let's say 199GB/200GB) are in iCloud only, so will the system pull them one by one to perform ML using the new model again? What if I “edit” the ML regularly? (by adding an un-detected photo to people album but not all at once) If so, this could be a huge drain to the iCloud servers... don’t forget some people do have more than 1TB of photos in iCloud.
Edit 2:
Don't take me wrong, I'm purely interested in how this whole thing works because to me it is done very nicely. And to be clear, I completely trust Apple on the "on-device" promise, and this is exactly why I asked this question to get an understanding of the technical details that make it both respecting privacy and giving accurate results.

Obviously the phone cannot do its work without the data - so it performs the on-device ML right after the photo was taken, before it is uploaded to iCloud and deleted on device - or if that wasn't possible - it downloads the photo data from iCloud and performs the on-device ML (without necessarily storing the photo on the device).
Whether or not that is a "bandwidth waste" is fully subjective. If you care about the privacy benefits on performing ML on-device, it is not a waste - if you do not care, it could be seen as a waste.
UPDATE: With your edit, you added a question on what happens if you add new information after the fact - for example changing a name, adding a photo to a specific detected person, etc. Actually the phone does not need to download all photos again to do the whole thing all over.
When the phone has the original image, it can extract features from the photo using machine learning. It is not known exactly which features iPhoto look at, but imagine extracting numbers such as the distance between the eyes, the color of the eye, etc. Another type of machine learning then can group thee numbers into classifications of individuals, which you them can name.
These numbers are stored on the phone and allow for you to update certain information and “recalculate” the detected persons without actually needing the full image data again.


Songs on iPhone I never put there There are song on my iPhone that i never put there.
Only the playlist iPhone and Purchased are activated and those songs are not on that list.
And somehow, I can't remove them.
Anybody help?

Look for a little cloud icon to the right of the song name... That mean's it's iTunes match. I had a bunch of songs I would never have gotten on my phone that kept coming up in genius shuffles. Turning off iTunes match did the trick.


App Store on iPad 2 keeps asking for AppleID password when attempting to update apps I have an iPhone 6 which never asks me for a password when updating apps, but my iPad 2 asks me for a password on every single app update if I want update apps individually even though I have the same restrictions settings on both devices (installing and deleting apps is allowed). Both are running iOS 9.3.2.

It's very possible that you've opted to "require always" at some point. To undo it, do the following:

Launch the Settings app on your iPhone or iPad.
Tap on General.
Tap on Restrictions.
Tap on Require Password under the Allowed Content section.
Tap on 15 minutes (yours is likely set to Immediately).

OR

Click Settings.
Click Touch ID & Passcode (May be named something else if you don't have touch ID).
About 75% down the right column should be "Require Passcode" with an option to change between Immediately or not. If you have Touch ID enabled, you may only get the one choice.

Source


Format USB for Samsung TV What's the simplest way to format a USB stick and write some video files to it in order for the Samsung TV to read it? As far as I know Samsung TVs support the FAT format (or maybe ExFAT too), but if I format the USB to FAT then I can't seem to be able to write to it (or even see it in Finder).

PS: I don't have access to a Windows machine

Simply use Disk Utility to format it as FAT, as Macs can indeed read and write to FAT drives–they just have problems with NTFS drives.

Insert your flash drive. Open Disk Utility (/Applications/Utilities/Disk Utility), select your flash drive in the sidebar, then click "Erase" in the top bar. Select "MS-DOS (FAT)" for your format, and Master Boot Record for your scheme.

Note that the FAT file system has a limitation of 4GB file size. If you want to circumvent this whilst still being able to use OS X, format the drive as exFAT (which has a file size limitation of 128 PiB). This option has been recently hidden with 10.11, so it takes a bit more work.

Open Terminal (/Applications/Utilities/Terminal). Run the command defaults write com.apple.DiskUtility advanced-image-options 1. This gives you access to hidden features within Disk Utility. Open Disk Utility (/Applications/Utilities/Disk Utility), select your flash drive in the sidebar, then click "Erase" in the top bar. Select "ExFAT" for your format, and Master Boot Record for your scheme.


"*account* is already signed in to iCloud" in Mojave—but it's not I am trying to sign in to iCloud after having signed out. I keep getting the message that my account is already signed in to iCloud and that I should delete it from Internet Accounts and sign in again.

It's not listed in Internet Accounts.

I've signed out of iTunes

and any other app that has used this account (list these please with an edit)

I've rebooted.
Nothing seems to help so I wonder how I can troubleshoot this further.

I had the exact same issue
It only occurred on one Mac, all the others were fine.

I even removed the device from my appleid.apple.com page as well,
then it asks me to authorise the device first, before giving the exact same error.

In my case I have removed it from iTunes, FaceTime, Messages, and Game Centre.
Im not using photos or books on here.

It started after changing my appleid password.

The fix for me was the following command in terminal:
defaults delete MobileMeAccounts

After this I was able to login again and add all my stuff back.
I have done some other steps, but as they did not help, I won't list them, unless people do have issues after this fix.
(like deleting my keychain and some terminal stuff that seems highly unlikely to help)


what is the Update from iMac OS X 10.6.8 When I go into my Apple Software Updates on my OS X 10.6.8 computer to update to OS X 10.9, the computer tells me that I do not have any new updates.

How can I upgrade to OS X 10.9 if it does not give me that option?

Operating system of my iMac
  Model Name:   iMac
  Model Identifier: iMac10,1
  Processor Name:   Intel Core 2 Duo
  Processor Speed:  3.06 GHz
  Number Of Processors: 1
  Total Number Of Cores:    2
  L2 Cache: 3 MB
  Memory:   4 GB
  Bus Speed:    1.07 GHz

Your Mac is a 2009 iMac. The latest OS is can run is MacOS 10.13 (High Sierra.)

Note that "UPDATES" are different from "NEW OS versions". An update to Snow Leopard is like from 10.6.3 to 10.6.8, or a security patch.

A New Version is a separate product, and must be downloaded from the App Store, rather than Software Updates. You may want to try this link for El Capitan.

It's likely that Apple will only show you the latest OS (High Sierra) for download. Unless you have specific needs, I would recommend installing High Sierra, and keeping all your software up-to-date. Snow Leopard is 10 years old!


Can I restore a system upgrade from a Time Machine backup? I created a full backup from OS X 10.10.3 and I'd expect that sub-minor upgrade to be included in the backup. However this seems not true when I apply that backup in the initial setup-process of a mint MacBook—it will be a 10.10-version.

Is there a way to restore such a updates from a Time Machine backup? Respectively are the OS-files actually stored in the backup anyway?

Unless you excluded the OS files from the backup, Time Machine should've backed that up along with everything else; but in order to recover the entire OS (rather than just your user files), you have to do the restore differently: use the restore tool in Recovery Mode (reachable by starting the Mac with Command and R held down). However, there are a couple of warnings I should give about this route:

I haven't tested it, but I think this form of restore will wipe out everything currently on the disk, replacing it with the earlier backup snapshot. Have you done anything important since the backup? If so, you should back that up before going this route.
If you'd excluded any files/folders from the backup, they'll be missing from the restore as well. It's fairly common to exclude the OS itself from backups, so if you'd done that this form of restore will not give you a bootable system.

Because of the above, I'd be inclined to stick with the restore you have, and simply reinstall the update.

BTW, the question seems to contain a bit of a misunderstanding about how OS updates and backups work. Time Machine (and other backup systems) back up files and folders. An OS update isn't a file or folder that can be backed up as an item; instead, it's a bunch of changes to various system files and folders. If those files and folders are being backed up, the updated versions will be backed up; if not, they won't be. Similarly, you can't restore a system update, you can only restore the changed versions of the various system files (and since you don't know precisely which ones were changed, that pretty much means restoring all of the system files and folders).


How to disable the dock on a specific display in Mavericks? I've just updated to Mavericks, and while I like having the dock on my 2 Landscape displays, my third portrait display is entirely unsuited to having a dock on it.

How can I suppress the dock from appearing on one of my 3 displays?

I can't find any way to allow the dock on 2 of the 3 displays.

But, there are some things you might do.

In Mavericks, the default is that each monitor has its own Space, an Apple way of saying that each monitor is its own independent desktop.

The implications of that are that your menu bar will be on all monitors but "disabled" on the monitors that you are not currently focused in. It also means that the dock will automatically change to the monitor that you are focused in.

You can change this setting so that the monitors are one Space, or one desktop. In "System Preferences" > "Mission Control", deselect the box for "Displays have separate Spaces".

Now, your menu bar and dock will only appear on one screen and will not move automatically.

To change which monitor is your primary monitor, go to "System Preferences" > "Displays". On the monitor that is your current primary monitor, a tab on the top of the window will say "Arrangement". There will see the side-by-side layout of all the monitors. Click and drag the white box on the top of your primary monitor to a different monitor to change which is your primary.

The new primary will have your menu bar and dock.


Safari on MacBookPro opens mobile YouTube After WWDC2020 I can't open common YouTube in Safari on my MacBookPro 2020. I'm being redirected to m.youtube.com each time which looks just like on iPad or iPhone. The main problem is that I can't watch any video "because macOS doesn't recognize internet addresses starting with rtsp:" (I see this when I start any video). What to do about it?
UPD: I have macOS Catalina 10.15.5
UPD#2: I have a default user agent and changing it to any other doesn't help.

Found the next solution: clicked on my avatar, then settings. There was the sacred button "full-version"


Reposition/Resize QuickLook window with AppleScript Is there a way to resize and reposition a quick look window with AppleScript? I have an AppleScript that will do this with any app, but I do not know what the quick look app is called.

I have tried QuickLook, Quick Look, and QL.

Here's a little AppleScript I wrote to resize and reposition the Quick Look window so that it occupies the right one-third of the screen:

    tell application "System Events"
        if not (exists window "Quick Look") of process "Finder" then
            activate application "Finder"
            keystroke "y" using command down
        end if
    end tell

    tell application "System Events" to tell process "Finder"
        if not (exists window "Quick Look") then ¬
            with timeout of 5 seconds
                repeat until (exists window "Quick Look")
                end repeat
            end timeout

        set [W, H] to size of scroll area 1 --(desktop)

        tell window "Quick Look"
            set [_w, _h] to size
            set [_x, _y] to position

            set position of it to [W * 2 / 3, 0]
            set size of it to [W * 1 / 3, H]
        end tell
    end tell

This requires that the appropriate application from within which this script is run (e.g. Script Editor, Keyboard Maestro, Better Touch Tool, etc.) is given assistive accessibility permissions, which (in High Sierra) you can grant in System Preferences > Security & Privacy > Privacy > Accessibility.