Delete Photos from my MacBook, not iCloud I have a MacBook air 2013. It has a 128GB M.2 SSD with 16GB of photos.

I'm trying to delete only the photos from my device.
I want all the photos to stay on ICloud but be gone from my MacBook

The only way to remove the photos from your Mac is to sign-out of iCloud.  This will keep the photos in iCloud but remove them, and all other iCloud-synced data, from the Mac.

iCloud is a syncing solution not an offline storage solution.  It's designed to give you access to your data from any device that logged-into that iCloud account.

From Apple's iCloud page:

  iCloud connects you and your Apple devices in amazing ways. It makes sure you always have the latest versions of your important information—like documents, photos, notes, and contacts—on whatever device you’re using. It lets you easily share photos, calendars, locations, and more with friends and family. It even helps you find your device if you lose it.

You could use an external storage device to store your photos and that will free-up your Air's HDD space.


Why CMD+N opened new popup Terminal window doesn't follow the default preference? I love Mac terminal in Dark and had set up the default color scheme to a dark one. Every time I open the terminal it's OK but I found that if I open one terminal window and then open another one via CMD+N the new one still remains in the original white one.

How can I make sure every Terminal window I opened all in the default preferences?

I am using OS X 10.9.1.

If I understand the question correctly, this is an easily doable through normal terminal preferences.
Go to terminal>preferences>startup
Here you can set the default behavior regarding window color scheme, including what color scheme new windows use.


Airport Express as extension I have an Airport time capsule as a main wireless, I add an Airport Extreme and a Airport Express as extension of my network. All of them have the same connection name.
Problem: the connection in the rooms where the extended devices are placed is too slow...
Is there a way to check the internet speed of each of the devices? The one with ethernet cable that is the main the speed is very good, but the others :(
Any help is more than welcome, thanks in advance.

This question is similar to this question on MacRumors. Try using AirPort Utility to check the speeds you are getting from the AirPort Express. Go to AirPort Utility -> Base Station -> Logs and Statistics -> Wireless Clients. Then, check the box called "Tx Rate." You'll see 130-270 for 802.11n, and < 56 for 802.11g. This will tell you what type of connection you are getting on your extended networks--i.e., 802.11a/b/g/n/ac. If you are getting very slow speeds, you may not be getting the speed you are getting from the TimeCapsule. Also, check out this question on StackExchange for determining the performance of your wired network.

Hope this helps.


Can I copy the entire scrollback buffer from iTerm2 to the clipboard? I've just run some commands and have several pages of output in iTerm2. Now I'd like to save it somewhere. (I could have piped it to a file, but I didn't think of that.)

Is there an easier way to copy it all to the clipboard that by scrolling back and highlighting for pages?

Oh, right, duh. ⌘ + A to select it all, then ⌘ + C.


MacBook Pro stuck on Apple logo - tried everything.. help Out of the blue my 2014 MacBook Pro running macOS Mojave is not booting.. it keeps freezing on the Apple logo.

I’ve tried the following already:

Ran it in recovery mode - ran first aid on the disk, all is well.
Verbose mode - ran it, text comes up real quick for a second and then it jumps to the Apple logo and the text disappears.
Tried running it in safe mode but it won’t work - just goes to the Apple logo as usual. Tried checking if I have a firmware password - I don’t.
Reset the NVRAM and PRAM.
Performed a Hardware Test (pressing D during startup) - all is well.

Please help me out here.. I’m really trying to fix this but nothing seems to work. Maybe someone here will have a clue how to fix this.

Thanks!

Not sure if it helps, but it happens to me sometimes too, or stuck in black screen when it attempts to start in BootCamp. I realized if I take out or unplug some usb cable from the laptop, it would start up normally. I also noticed it happened much less after I disabled a usb flash drive in Device Manager that I don't plug in and use all the time.


How can I make my computer believe a disk image is a hardware disk? I'm trying to do some research on TimeMachine right now. I don't want to purchase an external hard drive, just to learn about some software, and so I'd like to be able to tinker with the settings, by just creating a disk image...

But when I mount the disk image, TimeMachine doesn't see it as something it can back up to. So I'm wondering how I can lie to the system, and make it believe that the image is in fact real.

Thanks!

Aloha, counterbeing - I think we've worked together before!

I like the previous answer that creates a partition, but if that doesn't work for you, try this:

Create your Disk Image (I've used a sparse bundle disk image).
Mount the disk image
From the command line, enter the following:

sudo tmutil setdestination /Volumes/{mounted-image-name}

• Start Time Machine manually within the menu bar via "Back Up Now"

If all goes well, you should then back up to the image. It will need to be large enough to contain all of your backup data - or Time Machine will likely refuse to use it.


Using Audacity to Record Skype with External Mic i am using Audacity to (attempt to) record a skype conversation.  I am using an external mic.

when i attempt to record skype (via soundflower) in audacity, i only hear the skype output.  I can hear the caller on the other end, but not me.  this is true if i use the external mic or the built in mic.

i would like to have ideally separate tracks into audacity, one for my mic and one for skype output.  but i would be happy if they came in as one track too.  thank you!

For me sometimes Soundflower (i think is made to just do simple matching of one input to one output) alone just wasn't enough, specially when it comes to audio routing.

Then i use Jack jackosx.com, there i can also do things like route one input to two or even more outputs.

Sometimes i also use a combination of both.


iCloud Issue After El Capitan Update 10.11.2 After updating my MacBook Pro to 10.11.2, I am having huge issues with iCloud. Thus far, I am noticing that:

I can no longer use Messages.

I cannot use FaceTime.

I cannot authenticate into iCloud via the Preference Pane.

I have verified my iCloud credentials elsewhere (on another Mac, on iCloud.com, on an iOS device).

Does anyone know how I can force iCloud to recognize my credentials on this machine?

EDIT: In response to the myriad suggestions by Tetsujin, I have catalogued them here:

NVRAM reset has been done.
Started up MacBook in Safe Mode.
CANNOT use Messages from Safe Mode.
Checked status of service (UP).
Signed out of Messages and Facetime on all devices and back in.
Restarted routers and incoming internet.
Tried alternate ISP.
Verified SN displays, and is valid.
Disabled all firewalls.
Checked veracity of /private/etc/hosts file.
Verified that no proxy was being used.
Deleted Keychain entries for imessage and com.apple.idms.
Verified that the Guest account CAN access Messages.
Deleted com.apple.apsd.plist and rebooted.
Reset SMC.
Reinstalled OS X 10.11.2.

None of these things has worked for me.

EDIT 2: I am also having issues running apps purchased via the AppStore. Each time I run one, I have to log into the AppStore to verify the purchase.

EDIT 3: I've done myriad changes including deletes of Caches, StartupItems, Libraries, etc. (in concert with AppleCare Support), and nothing has remediated the issue so far. I'll document everything as time permits.

EDIT 4: The issue is more than just with iCloud, but also involves certain apps that require access to some subfolders in ~/Library. For example, when I try to update EFI's Fiery Software, I get this:

And when I execute OmniFocus, I see this response:

And some apps that use the Sparkle framework to perform updates simply fail. iSale 5 is one example:

Some apps work fine, while others obviously do not. There is a major permissions issue here somewhere. I just haven't been able to track it down.

It seems that I have found the answer to this issue. I ran the ACL permissions repair tool at the Terminal in Recovery Mode, but when I checked the ~/Library and its subfolders from the CLI, I found that many of the subfolders were owned by another user account. (How this happened is anyone's guess.) The solution here was to Get Info for the ~/Library folder, and then ensured that I had RW access to it. Then, I simply chose to Apply to Enclosed Items...


Removing data without formatting the iPhone Suppose I have a very simply notes app that does not use iCloud. All it does is simply save strings of plain text to files and retrieve them.

How securely is the data associated to the app (the text files) on the actual phone disk deleted when deleting the app? For example: by holding on the app icon and deleting it vs. formatting the whole iPhone.

Can it be recovered with special software/hardware?

Assuming you're not talking about a very old iPhone (i.e. iPhone 5 or older), then every file created by any app is actually encrypted on disk. The plain text content is not stored on disk at any time.

In addition, every file is encrypted with a unique key - i.e. there's a seperate key for each file. The key for the file is stored alongside the encrypted file contents, but encrypted with a so called "class key" (depending on the settings in the app). This is the foundation of the key hierarchy in Apple's "Data Protection" scheme.

When you delete an app manually, all the files stored locally by that app are deleted. This deletion of each individual file is actually done by simply deleting the per-file key. This makes it possible to delete even very large files quickly and securely at the same time.


Ugly graphical glitches in High Sierra 10.13.2 recently I noticed that MacOS has become pretty unstable, in particular there is a new bug that is annoying me a lot.
Since the computer has been started, it starts to collect some glitches on the screen, some of them blink and is very annoying, the situation get worse until the computer block it self or the OS crashes, this happens after two days usually.
I was used to let my Mac powered on for weeks and now I have to restart it also three or four times in a week...
I noticed also that sometimes the OS crashes due to video player in Safari, it happened some times that I was watching a video on the internet and suddenly the OS crashed causing reboot.
I'll attach a picture of my screen to this message.
These problems occur on my iMac (21.5" min 2011 with High Sierra 10.13.2) but I saw some other graphical problem during login on another my Mac (MacBook Pro 13" mid 2015 same OS version).
There is a solution? Can I solve this problem without a clean installation of the OS?
Thanks very much and have a nice day!

That is not a software issue. Your graphics card is getting inappropriate power. You probably have a capacitor or transistor that is dying (if you're lucky; if you're REALLY lucky you might be able to pinpoint the exact component by visual inspection) or the graphics chip is nearing the end of its lifespan.

If there is a shop that does board-level repairs near where you live it might be repairable, usually using donor parts from other dead boards.

Most often, instead of just dying one day, the glitches might slowly degrade to something like this.

I think on the 2011 iMacs the dGPU was a mezzanine card? I don't know if you would feel it is worth it to repair, maybe you could find a replacement for cheap.

If this is the integrated graphics, I don't think there is anything that can be done.

As for the MacBook, that's a completely different machine in terms of architecture, and not just for the GPU. Probably unrelated, but you could provide more details on what the issues on that machine are like in another question.


Where is Homebrew's doctor.rb? I need to change some configuration for the brew doctor tool and by surfing the web I learned that this can be done by editing the doctor.rb file and adding some custom code inside it.

The problem is that when I run

locate doctor.rb

I get an output like this:

/Applications/Xcode.app/Contents/Developer/[...]/ruby/2.3.0/rubygems/doctor.rb
/Library/Developer/CommandLineTools/SDKs/[...]/ruby/2.3.0/rubygems/doctor.rb
/System/Library/Frameworks/[...]/2.0/usr/lib/ruby/2.0.0/rubygems/doctor.rb
/usr/local/Homebrew/Library/Homebrew/cask/lib/hbc/cli/doctor.rb
/usr/local/Homebrew/Library/Homebrew/cmd/doctor.rb
/usr/local/Homebrew/Library/Homebrew/vendor/portable-ruby/2.3.3/[...]/doctor.rb

So, which doctor.rb file should I edit to customize the configuration?

The file that you are looking to edit should be present in Homebrew installation directory, which generally is /usr/local/Homebrew.

From your shared locate output, the one matching the criterion is:

/usr/local/Homebrew/Library/Homebrew/cmd/doctor.rb.


Too many apps; not enough space on my iPod I have a new PC. I have never used auto sync because I have more data than space on my iPod and I swap songs, movies, photos, and apps back and forth. My new PC now has all my music and photos on it in the Windows folders as well as all the songs in my iTunes library now. I have backed up the iPod through iTunes. I have done the transfer purchases thing, but only 48 of my apps are on my PC and my iPod right now because my old computer died and, as I said, my iPod is small.

Some of my apps are for scrapbooking and are over 100 MB and have cost a fair bit of money with all the add-ons and in-app purchases I've made. My songs will be ok. My photos will be ok. But what about my apps? I am terrified I won't have access to all my apps after I upgrade. Or maybe I'll only have the 48. I cannot use sync because obviously I am a control freak; I mean, obviously the new PC is an issue and the amount of storage space on the iPod and need to swap is an issue and WAY too confusing and time-consuming to have to use the checkmark method. I have to do it manually.

I was hoping to put all the songs and apps in the Cloud once I upgraded and purchase the $25 non-iTunes songs storage thingy so I can swap on the go until I go and get a bigger iPod, lol. But: will my apps be gone after the upgrade? Can I not go to iTunes and just reinstall the apps on my iPod when I want them like I have been doing? Will I have to buy them all over again?

My head is very fuzzy, so if this is not making sense, please tell me. I know someone out there knows the answer to this and likes to help techno-duds like me.

iCloud can be used to back up your device, but it's not a repository for Apps not in use. However, once you've purchased an app you can redownload it from the iTunes store, free of charge, as long as the app is still available.

You will lose the configuration files and any data files that wasn't saved out to an external source. (This would be the same for any app removed from the device.

To download a purchased app:

Open the App Store app on your device.
Tap the Updates tab in the lower right hand corner
Tap the Purchased pane at the top of the apps list.
Tap the Not On This iPod tab near the top of the screen.
Tap the download from the cloud icon for the app you want to
    install.


Cannot synch iMessages from old iPhone to new activated iPhone It seems that my text/iMessages from old iPhone is not synching with my new iPhone.  Is there anything special that needs to be done for the messages to synch?  Everything else is synched.

iMessage history only syncs a limited window. If you need to get all of the messages, backup the old phone to iCloud or iTunes, wipe the new phone and then restore the backup.

Transferring text messages with upgrade from iPhone 4 to iPhone 5


Is it possible in iOS 6 to make banners only appear when the device is active, but self-dismiss upon unlock? If I'm using the device, I'd like to see banner notifications from other apps.

When I unlock it, I don't want a swarm of banner notifications bothering me and hindering my ability to use the top of whatever app I'm using. I'd rather just check the notification center at my leisure.

EDIT: But I still want the rest of the device to operate as per usual; in particular, I don't want to turn on Do Not Disturb b/c I want to be disturbed by whatever else I've set to disturb me.

Is this possible?

Yes it is possible.  Turn on Do Not Disturb when you are in your phone.

Or just turn off notifications

http://www.imore.com/how-customize-notification-center-alerts-your-iphone-and-ipad


Help me unlock a German iPhone 4 iOS 5.1? I just bought a second iPhone for my sister on the net for almost no money. When I got the iPhone today, I saw why.

It's a German iPhone on iOS 5.1. It's locked and it only accepts the SIM provided by the carrier. It's still on the setup screen (where you have to set the language, locations, etc...)

Since jailbreaking/unlocking iPhone isn't new for me, I tried already a lot.

I tried downgrading it to 4.3, but according to RedSn0w I can't get him into DFU modus.
Restoring using iTunes didn't work out either because iTunes is asking for a valid SIM card.
Selecting a custom ipsw using iTunes didn't work out either. I guess the baseband to high.

I also know it's next to impossible to unlock such a device. But I'm sure someone in this community knows a way around.

I'm prepared to give 50 reputation (whenever I can) to whom can guide me to install the iPhone (so I actually can use it and see the SpringBoard) and another 50 to whom can tell me how to unlock this device.

So any suggestions at all are most welcome!

Here is a picture of the lock-screen:

Edit 2012-04-22:
As of today you can unlock any jailbroken iPhone:
http://laforeta.blogspot.co.nz/2012/04/how-to-spoof.html

What do you need: A jailbroken iPhone that can be activated in iTunes (that is, not officially blacklisted), a computer with the latest iTunes installed and working internet connection.  You will also need to know the carrier that your iPhone is locked to.
…
Your phone will work normally with your SIM card and that SIM card ONLY since we have tricked iTunes to think that ICCID is one of the intended carrier's. The phone can be rebooted and connected to iTunes freely without losing the "unlock", at least for now.
Since it does not involve emergency numbers or IMSI spoofing it will not have any of the issues associated with SIM interposers. Tested working on iOS 5.01 but should work with tethered 5.1 too.

You could check on the official German T-mobile site at what date you can legally unlock your iPhone. When beyond that date you can perform the whole process online on their site. Then you would restore the iPhone via iTunes and have the SIM-lock removed.
https://t-mobile-simlockportal.arvato-services-mocom.com/pubsilo/Home.aspx
To install the phone you could get a German T-mobile prepaid SIM-card; e.g. from ebay.de - current offers - I think even a de-activated one should work for the installation as only the country-/provider-code is checked.


Is there a way to lock the volume & brightness on iPad/iOS 10 from getting changed by a child? My little boy watches stuff on our iPad all the time, the smart monkey figured out how to change the volume and the brightness by pulling up the Control Center and adjusting them via the slider.

My problem is that he sets them to the maximum no matter how many times I tell him not to do that. Is there a way to lock them on a certain level? or disable the Control Center?

Edit: Sadly redeagle's solution never worked, I have no idea what is "Volume Limit" in the restrictions used for but my kid can still control the volume using the control centre and/or the side switch

For brightness, you can go in Settings > Control Center and change if you want access to Control Center on the lock screen or within apps, it will always be available on the home screen, AFAIK.

To prevent him from changing the volume, change the volume to what you always want it to be and go to Settings > General > Restrictions and tap Enable Restrictions, then set a Restrictions passcode (something different than the normal passcode). Go to Volume Limit and check Don't Allow Changes.


Mail count with Automator? I am trying to create file containing different statistics about things such as email count and such things, trial here: this proto returns empty file, not sure why. How can count the amount of emails with Automator under OS X?

Probably easier to do this with AppleScript, which you can then use in an Automator action if you like.

tell application "Mail"
    set myAccount to "Gmail"
    set mailboxList to {"INBOX", "[Gmail]/Sent Mail"}
    set messageCount to 0
    repeat with _mailbox in mailboxList
        set messageCount to messageCount + (count of messages in mailbox _mailbox of account myAccount)
    end repeat
    get messageCount
end tell

That will return the number of messages in each mailbox you specify in the list on line two. If use it in an Automator action, it will pass that value along to whatever the next action is.

You'll need to change the myAccount line to whatever your account is named in preferences.

To get the specific mailbox names, run tell application "Mail" to get mailboxes of account "Gmail" in AppleScript editor. You can then add them to the mailboxList in line 3, make sure they're quoted, and each entry is separated by a comma.


Can I get any info about my iTunes Connect customer? Regarding in-App (or other) purchases, is there any info available about the customer for a given transaction?

So far I've only found reports without any info on the customer.

It's important because how can we handle any customer requests in email without knowing if he/she has bought anything at all from us?

I don't clearly understand if you're using iOS or OS X, but you should receive a receipt from Apple servers with a lot of information about the transaction, including info about the customer. You need to validate this transaction in order to confirm an in-app purchase. more info : https://developer.apple.com/library/ios/releasenotes/General/ValidateAppStoreReceipt/Introduction.html


Can I attach an external GPU to my MacBook Air late 2010? I have an old laptop (which is definitely on its last strides). It's a MacBook Air Late 2010 and its running like a slug (I have abused the laptop beyond comprehension) so for its final year or two I want to get the most out of it. I already have a 2' monitor attached and I want to know if I get a GTX 970 and attach it with one of these things (Using thunderbolt) if it will function properly and that I'm not burning $600 for something my computer can't handle.

Unfortunately not, your Macbook doesn't have Thunderbolt, only Mini DisplayPort. For best results, your mac should have Thunderbolt 2 to take full advantage of the speeds.

By the way, I have Macbook 2011 and I had 2x Thunderbolt displays at 2560x1440 with my integrated HD3000 512mb without a problem. But it was fast as hell when I added a SATA3 SSD with 560mbps read. Hard drives are bottlenecking! :)


How to stop Mac App Store from downloading macOS Sierra? Today I've updated my 2011 15" MacBook Pro to macOS Sierra. After everything got updated, I've entered the Mac App Store in order to download Xcode. I saw in the "Apps Made by Apple" section the macOS Sierra, which seemed weird to be shown as downloadable, since I've already downloaded and installed it on my MacBook.
I thought maybe it's a minor update, so I clicked on Download button.

Since then, it is downloading the full macOS Sierra. The problem is that I can't stop it. I don't see it in the Purchases tab and on the button where it said Download earlier, it's says now "Downloading". When I press on the option key to cancel the download nothing happens.

Can you please help me to stop the macOS Sierra download? It is slowing the whole Wi-Fi...

Even though you already installed macOS Sierra, App Store still allows you to download the original install file.

There are 3 methods to cancel a download in Mac App Store:

You can stop the download by going to Launchpad, click and hold on macOS Sierra and click the small 'x' button to delete it. This will stop its download.
Turn off your WiFi temporarily and Mac App Store will show a message that the download has failed. Then, find the downloaded file in the Applications folder and move it to Trash. Empty the trash and turn your WiFi back on.
Go to the Purchases page in Mac App Store, hold down option key and click Cancel. The download will be cancelled.


Cannot select "Tile" in Desktop system preference I just upgraded from macOS 10.14.6 to macOS 10.15.4

Previously I had both my desktops to display a random picture and to tile them. Now the option to tile them is greyed out :

I have two Hp 27" monitors and I am running them with a  MacBook Pro closed.

I know there is something I am missing but can't figure it out.

If your image is larger than the screen's resolution (either by height or width) the ability to tile doesn't work natively.
tldr;

You can trick the option to show by adding an image smaller than your display to the
folder where you're selecting your wallpaper, and then selecting the tile
option.
I'd recommend having a separate folder full of optimised images fit for tiling (they could be copies)

As per above, if the image is larger than the resolution, then My macOS running 10.5.4 is has a display resolution of 2560 x 1600, however is scaled at 1440x900 (image below is a neofetch showing system info)

For an image to be tiled, it needs to be smaller than the width of the display. e.g. let's look at these images. Because the image width is more than my screen, the tile option isn't shown.

However, as is the same with this small image with a width of 900px.

When we reduce the width of the image, we're able to find the average percentage less than the width that would allow for an image to be tiled

At 886 width, we're able to finally select the tile function.
This means that the image width needs to be less than 98.5% of your monitor's width.

You can then select other images with the tiling option, however tiling would look rather odd as by the logic above, the tiling feature attempts to tile an image that's more than the width.

If you've made it this far, I'd suggest having a folder full of optimised images for what you're looking to do. You can resize them in preview as per image below

Hope this helps and explains things a bit!


iMessage with iPad and iPhone 5 My iPad was linked with my iPhone with iMessaging.  If I change my apple ID on my iPhone, will that prevent my messages from appearing on my iPad?  Or will it automatically change the account info on the iPad too?  Someone has my iPad and I don't want them to see my iMessages as I get them on my iPhone.

Remove the Apple ID from the iPad, and your iMessages will not show up there


Disk problems and reinstalling Mavericks! This started after I installed a BootCamp Windows 8.1 partition. That partition ran out of space so I decided to not heed any warnings and tried to format my Macintosh HD into free space, 10G of free space. Still no problems until I decided to boot into Mac OS X and saw that I accidentally deleted my Mac OS X partition!

I booted into my Recovery partition and reinstalled Mavericks.

I formatted the Recovery HD partition as HFS.. since after I made free space it showed up in the Mac (This is before the reinstall)

So after the reinstall, I am here. I went into the terminal and merged the apple_boot recovery HD into the main Macintosh HD partition...
except, there was one more Recovery HD partition HFS?

So what I want to do is remake my partition map, like the manufacterer's default.

Is there a way I can reinstall Mac OS X Mavericks without external media? Is Internet Recovery built into the rMBP Late 2013 13"?

If so, can I use it, delete all of my partitions, and reinstall Mac OS X mavericks and will that installation also make a Recovery HD partition?

What do I do?

No backups needed.

updated

/dev/disk0
   #:                       TYPE NAME                    SIZE       IDENTIFIER
   0:      GUID_partition_scheme                        *121.3 GB   disk0
   1:                        EFI EFI                     209.7 MB   disk0s1
   2:                  Apple_HFS MACINTOSH HD            89.4 GB    disk0s2
   3:                  Apple_HFS Recovery HD             650.0 MB   disk0s3
/dev/disk1
   #:                       TYPE NAME                    SIZE       IDENTIFIER
   0:                            Disk Image             *102.4 MB   disk1
/dev/disk2
   #:                       TYPE NAME                    SIZE       IDENTIFIER
   0:     Apple_partition_scheme                        *136.2 MB   disk2
   1:        Apple_partition_map                         30.7 KB    disk2s1
   2:         Apple_Driver_ATAPI                         2.0 KB     disk2s2
   3:                  Apple_HFS Recovery Disk Assistant 136.2 MB   disk2s3
/dev/disk3
   #:                       TYPE NAME                    SIZE       IDENTIFIER
   0:      GUID_partition_scheme                        *1.0 MB     disk3
   1:                  Apple_HFS Minecraft               1.0 MB     disk3s1
/dev/disk4
   #:                       TYPE NAME                    SIZE       IDENTIFIER
   0:     Apple_partition_scheme                        *158.6 MB   disk4
   1:        Apple_partition_map                         32.3 KB    disk4s1
   2:                  Apple_HFS Google Chrome           158.6 MB   disk4s2

No CoreStorage logical volume groups found

So what I want to do is remake my partition map, like the
  manufacterer's default.

Based on your comments, you've managed to reclaim the space from the orphaned bootcamp partition and merge it into your boot volume. Assuming disk0s2 is now ~30 GB larger, the partition map listed for your internal boot drive /dev/disk0 is the default partition scheme.

  Is there a way I can reinstall Mac OS X Mavericks without external media? Is Internet Recovery built into the rMBP Late 2013 13"?

Yes. As you mention, using Internet Recovery. Hold down Option+Command+R at the boot chime to enter Internet Recovery. You'll be greeted with a spinning globe. Once loaded, from the main pane select "Reinstall OSX" and then select your internal drive as the destination.

  If so, can I use it, delete all of my partitions, and reinstall Mac OS
  X mavericks and will that installation also make a Recovery HD
  partition?

Yes, if you wish, however you will lose all data on the internal drive during a clean wipe (reformat) and reinstallation. The reformat will wipe the drive. The reinstallation will reinstall OSX onto the boot volume, as well as recreating both the default EFI and Recovery partitions. To do so:

Enter Internet Recovery as mentioned above
Open "Disk Utility" from the main pane.
select the whole boot Drive [IE 120 GB Apple SSD] > Erase tab > Format: Mac OS Extended (Journaled) > click "Erase..."
The drive is now reformatted and completely blank.
Exit "Disk Utility" and Open "Reinstall OSX"
Select the Internal drive and let OS X install. Upon completion, the machine will reboot normally and you will be greeted with the Setup Assistant process.


I canceled (control+c) rsync transfer on a large file; will it be picked up if I start over? I am coping a about 5TB of data from a Drobo attacked to a Mac Mini running macOS Sierra to a NAS (FreeNAS). Here's the command I am using:

  sudo rsync -a --stats --progress "/Source" "/Destination"

Needless to say, it is taking days to complete, even over a 1GB network. Along the way, I had to stop the transfer due to server trouble. I remember explicitly stopping the rsync process using control + c while it was transferring a Parallels virtual hard drive file about 500GB. I later started the process again using the command above but I didn't note which Parallels VM file it stopped on and I want to make sure that the command I am using will pick that file up, despite having canceled the command the first round.

If I cancel the rsync command above, do in-flight files just get deleted, and if I run the command above again, will it see those file(s) as new files never transferred?

If you use the --partial option, the partially-transfered file is kept, and subsequent transfers should be much faster. It's probably a good idea to use it with large file transfers in general.


Correcting "choppy" graphics I've been having issues with many apps where they fail to render properly and take over the whole UI.  Sometimes I need to restart but usually just closing the app solves the problem.

Is there any setting I can tweak to avoid this?

15-inch MacBook Pro with Retina display.
Configuration:

2.8GHz Quad-core Intel Core i7, Turbo Boost up to 4.0GHz.
16GB 1600MHz DDR3L SDRAM.
1TB PCIe-based Flash Storage.
Intel Iris Pro Graphics + AMD Radeon R9 M370X with 2GB GDDR5 memory.

Lack of screen refreshing is often a sign of something failing in the video card or perhaps even a damaged/corrupted video driver. This is a bit problematic on a Mac as it is rarely even possible to remove and re-install a video driver, which would be a simple and free first step.

Depending on what is going on you may want to update (or re-upadte) your system with the latest combo updater. With the hopes that it will re-install or update the current video driver with a 'clean' version.

I would, however, be tempted to run a cleaner/maintenance app to make sure there are no corrupted cache files and all necessary maintenance scripts and disk/filesystem repairs are done before running the combo updater. My recommendation would be the free utility Onyx. Download and run it (First quit out of all open apps), give it your password and allow it to verify your disk. Then use the automation tab and let it do it's thing. Reboot when done and apply the Combo updater.

After that reboot if the issue has not gone away and you are sure it is not related to any specific app or family of apps (like all your Adobe apps that might share a graphics library...) it may be a hardware issue, which could be diagnosed at an Apple store with a Genius Bar appointment.

If you want to try one more thing and have the time and equipment, you might consider installing a fresh copy of macOS on an external drive along with one or two of the apps that demonstrate the issue most readily. Possibly even a different version of the OS than you currently use. This would show if the combo updater really fixed any video driver issues and guarantee a clean OS and application install. In effect eliminating any and all software variables lurking in your current system,


Login shows "network accounts unavailable" but I can access server once local user logs in I am currently setting up a Mac Server using 10.9.1 and have a client also on 10.9.1

When the client boots up I get a popup window next to the Username box that says "Network accounts unavailable" and I cannot login using any of the network accounts created on the server.

When I log into the client using a local user I can see and browse the servers file shares and when I go into System Preferences > Users & Groups > Login Options the Network Account Server is correct with a green light on it and if I go into the Allow network users to log in at login window it shows a list of network users on the client.

It seems the client can only see the server once logged in or network users don't have have permission to login. I have checked the server Users section and all users have Allow user to login ticked.

Any help would be appreciated.

For me, it sometimes takes a moment for the network users to show up.  I found that changing the login window from "List of users" to "Name and password" has made it much better for my users. It seemed that most of the wait was for it to load the list or something.

after making the change, clients will sometimes briefly say that network accounts are unavailable, but its usually very, very brief.


How can you verify when a drive was last formatted? I'm trying to determine the date a drive on a MacBook was last formatted. I used to be able check the inode birth time of the root volume, but it appears a recent MacOS update may have changed this behaviour because I'm now seeing Jan 1 2020 anytime I check via
stat -f "Access (atime): %Sa%nModify (mtime): %Sm%nChange (ctime): %Sc%nBirth  (Btime): %SB" /
Access (atime): Jan  1 03:00:00 2020
Modify (mtime): Jan  1 03:00:00 2020
Change (ctime): Jan  1 03:00:00 2020
Birth  (Btime): Jan  1 03:00:00 2020

I'm aware I can simply check the software installation dates, but that doesn't necessarily indicate if the drive was actually formatted or not.

I'm not aware of what's causing that stat behaviour — are you using Big Sur? On a drive formatted with Catalina, stat reports the correct value.
In any case, you can use my tool Drat to see the timestamps of all APFS volumes. Do diskutil apfs list to find the block device that represents the "Physical Store", e.g. in the following output...
APFS Container (1 found)
|
+-- Container disk1 9FB9190C-8782-48FB-956E-0539C73996ED
    ====================================================
    APFS Container Reference:     disk1
    Size (Capacity Ceiling):      479894224896 B (479.9 GB)
    Capacity In Use By Volumes:   409366626304 B (409.4 GB) (85.3% used)
    Capacity Not Allocated:       70527598592 B (70.5 GB) (14.7% free)
    |
    +-< Physical Store disk0s2 44F7C60F-6302-4F08-A1A4-40F7BAA25D12
    |   -----------------------------------------------------------
    |   APFS Physical Store Disk:   disk0s2
    |   Size:                       479894224896 B (479.9 GB)
    |
    +-> Volume disk1s1 68FF83AF-C326-4C78-ABDA-C33E52D07D29
    |   ---------------------------------------------------

[...]

... the Physical Store is disk0s2, which corresponds to the block device /dev/disk0s2.
Then use Drat to inspect the physical store, e.g. drat inspect /dev/disk0s2. Included in the output for each volume is "Formatted by:" and "Last modified by:". All times are in UTC. For example:
[...]

Volume name:        ### macOS ###
Role:               System (contains a root directory for the system)
Flags:
- Volume is unencrypted.

[...]

Formatted by:
- ID: diskmanagementd (1412.41.1)
- Timestamp: Sat Nov 23 11:18:26 2019
- Last XID: 25

Last modified by:
- ID: apfs_kext (1412.141.1)
- Timestamp: Mon Feb 15 10:22:49 2021
- Last XID: 5d644b

[...]


Make Ctrl-k in Terminal copy to the system clipboard I'd like whatever I last "cut" with Ctrl-k in Terminal to be available in my text editor when I hit Cmd-v. Is that possible? Or something close?

Update with additional explanation: Ctrl-k is by default in Terminal "delete to end of line". As well as deleting it puts the deleted text into the Terminal's clipboard (emacs "kill ring") and it can be retrieved with Ctrl-y. This is essentially a second clipboard separate from the system clipboard. I want to use the same clipboard for Terminal and for the rest of the system such as my text editor.

There's a very simple solution if you're willing to extend your shell's functionality.  (Though it is pretty cool to see the automator solution)
Assuming you're using zsh, the current macOS default shell, then just add this to your ~/.zshrc profile.
pb-kill-line () {
  zle kill-line   # `kill-line` is the default ctrl+k binding
  echo -n $CUTBUFFER | pbcopy
}

zle -N pb-kill-line  # register our new function

bindkey '^K' pb-kill-line  # change the ctrl+k binding to use our new function

All this is doing is wrapping the Ctrl+k key binding so that in addition to performing its default behavior (kill-line), it also copies the relevant text into the system wide clipboard. The mysterious $CUTBUFFER contains the text that was just cut, and the macOS pbcopy utility puts whatever it receives from the STDIN into the system clipboard.
This solution was mostly just copied from https://gist.github.com/welldan97/5127861 ! My only original content is the explanation. :-)


Mac Book Pro 2012 model: My sharing name automatically changes I have a mac book pro from 2013 (mid 2012 model) the only customisation I have done is install a bigger hard drive. Whenever I go into sharing settings the name of my computer to others is the serial number which makes using air drop confusing when trying to find my computer. I have tried changing it before but whenever my computer goes to sleep then I open it again it has changed back. Please help (I'm running El Capitan)

Just to make sure you're changing your computer name in the right place, follow these steps:

Go to System Preferences
Click on Sharing
In the Computer Name field, enter the name you want your computer to use.
Exit System Preferences

Now, assuming you were already doing that, you should reset your NVRAM.

Reset your PRAM/NVRAM

Older Macs had what's called Parameter RAM (PRAM), newer Macs use Non-Volatile Random-Access Memory (NVRAM). You should definitely reset this to try resolving your issue. Follow these steps:

Shut down your machine. Yes, a full shut down, not just logging out.
Press the power button and then press the commandoptionpr keys. You have to make sure you press these keys before the gray screen appears or it won’t work.
Hold those keys down until your Mac reboots again and you here the startup chime.
Let go of the keys and let your Mac reboot normally.

Note: When you log back in you may need to readjust some of your system preferences (e.g. mouse speed, time and date/timezone, etc).


Can you force a mobile site on your iPhone to show full desktop view? Is there a way to force websites, when browsing them on your phone, to go into full desktop view? For instance, when I go to the NASCAR website on my phone, it displays a mobile version. But the mobile version doesn't give everything the full desktop site does.

I can trick the site to think I am browsing it on a computer by putting something after the .com,like .com/News and it will work, but then when I go to their homepage by clicking on the logo, it redirects to the mobile version. I am using an Apple iPhone 4 for my device.

I don't think you can do this in Safari on the iPhone but you could use a 3rd party browser app. Many of those will let you set the browser agent. One browser I know does this is  'Atomic Web Browser'. This may not work in all cases as some websites may use other ways of determining which content to show, for example, some will detect the screen dimensions.

I've tried this on my iPhone with Atomic Web Browser. Within the browser, I went to settings, 'Identify browser as' and selected 'Safari Desktop'. Then I went to nascar.com and tapped on the nascar logo. It showed me the desktop version of the page.

I checked in mobile safari and doing the same indeed took me to a mobile version.


Automator Service that works with and without selection I have an AppleScript that I want to run with a keyboard shortcut. The script uses the current selection of text if it is available, but will also work without it. I have created an Automator Service for this.

If I select "Service receives selected text", it works if I have text selected, but will not run if I don't have text selected. I can change to "Service receives no input", but then I won't get the selection even if I have something selected before.

What I am looking for is some way to launch the script and pass in the selection is available, and launch the script with no (or empty) input if nothing is selected. But it should work with the same keyboard shortcut in both cases. Is this possible?  Thanks!

I don't have an exact answer to your problem but you could perhaps consider a normal applescript that sends the COPY command and checks the contents of the clipboard before and after. Like this...

# For testing only; Delay so we can switch to the app with text
delay 2

# Clear the clipboard so we have a clean state
set the clipboard to ""

    tell application "System Events"

    # Send the 'Copy' command
    keystroke "c" using command down
    delay 0.2

    # Grub the clipboard contents
    set the_sel to the clipboard

    # Is it empty? We either failed or no selection present
    if the_sel is equal to "" then
        display dialog "No Text selected"
    else
        display dialog "Text was: " & the_sel
    end if
end tell


Unable to update Apple ID I use a gmail address as my Apple ID. I recently made an icloud address using my mac. Now I wanted to change my Apple ID to my icloud address today.

I found these official instructions.
https://support.apple.com/en-in/HT202667

I did whatever was mentioned there. I signed out Apple ID on my mac. I don't have any other apple device. And I went to the apple ID site to make the change but it only gives me the following error.

Your Apple ID cannot be updated at this time. Please try again later.

If that matters, yes my icloud address is added as secondary address for my Apple account and I can login using this address. But I want this as my primary address not the gmail one. I have tried changing multiple times but nothing happens other than that error. Please help!

I spoke to the customer support again. This time an attentive guy there was able to point out the issue that is happening with my account.

Apparently Apple has put some restriction on new iCloud email accounts and they cannot be used as primary Apple ID for first 30 days.

They have added the following note in the documentation page as well but it is written in fine text so it goes unnoticed. One has to pay attention to notice it. It says:

"If you try to change your Apple ID to an @icloud.com email address created within the last 30 days, you might be asked to try again later."

I made my @icloud address 2 days back, so I guess in my case I have wait for 28 more days after which I hope I will be able to change my primary Apple ID address. Let's see.


How do I get Safari to prompt me before allowing cookies There is a feature in Internet Explorer's cookie handling preferences that causes Internet Explorer to prompt you for each new cookie that is being saved. The preferences in question let you allow or deny each cookie, domain-by-domain and get IE to remember the setting for each domain.

Is there an extension for safari that will emulate this behaviour?

In essence, I want to be prompted when whatever.doubleclick.net tries to save a cookie and tell safari to reject the cookie, and all cookies for that domain.

Safari Cookies (10.5-10.6?)
...is a cookie manager that I've used in the past. It's the only cookie manager I know of for Safari. I couldn't install it in Lion just now. I assume this is because they released a non-free version for lion.
I don't recall whether this extension prompts the user when cookies are stored. Features which you need are:

Automatic mode: Only keep cookies/Flash cookies/Databases from sites which are in your Favorites, BookMarks, Top Sites, or History.
Save favorite cookies to a whitelist.

Using the latter feature, you will accept cookies on a per website basis - not per cookie basis. This allows you to block vast amounts of cookies without spending too much time managing them.
The developers have released a version for Lion which is not free:
Cookie (Mac App Store)
You can download a trial on their website.
Other stuff
Also consider the following extensions to block cookies and protect privacy.

Ghostery: Full detection of tracker scripts, img tags, and iframes from over 600 data collection services.     Blocking capability for each detected element.
Adblock: Hides ads and also prevents some related cookies from being download. You can include lists which will allow you to block more than just ads. E.g. EasyPrivacy List, Antisocial List, Malware Domains List.
Incognito: Incognito protects your privacy by blocking Google Adsense and Google Analytics on non-Google pages. In addition, it allows you to optionally block Facebook and Twitter content on third-party websites as well as embedded YouTube movies outside of the YouTube website. Google also provides other extensions to opt-out of their tracking. However they are not yet available for Safari. (IBA Opt-Out, Keep my Opt-Outs)
Google Analytics Opt-out (beta): Official Google extension. The add-on communicates with the Google Analytics JavaScript (ga.js) to indicate that information about the website visit should not be sent to Google Analytics.


No ratings after 30k downloads I have an app in the appstore which has 30k downloads so far. It averages 500 downloads daily. However, I don't see much reviews or ratings at all. Only 4 reviews overall from all the countries (all 5 stars). That's it. Is this normal? (app url: https://itunes.apple.com/mk/app/tube-max/id1045359493?mt=8)

I see three reviews only for your app. One on the current version and two on "all versions" and I'm browsing on the US store.

Sadly, I think this is in the normal range (if a bit less reviews) - but you are operating in the free app space with a dollar "remove the ads" IAP.

Apple does not incentivize people to leave reviews - you don't get better genius results, better recommendations - so people don't invest time in a review unless they are a) angry b) pay a lot for the app and it really saves them time or effort.

I would be curious on your engagement rate for the 30k downloads. If you have a solid core of people that continue to use the app weekly and daily - you might over time get a few that leave reviews.


Can I boot my mac from my old windows hard disk? Recently, my old windows computer broke down and I decided to purchase a Mac to replace it , and so far, it has been great!

I have thought about using bootcamp to install windows on the mac as well, as I need several windows specific programs for my college work.

Rather than installing through bootcamp, I was wondering if it is possible for me to buy an external hard drive enclosure, place in my old windows hard disk (which has been reset and only contains a fresh windows 10 install) and boot my mac from that?

If possible, is there a way for me to get the Apple Windows Support Software separately in order to install all the required drivers on the windows disk?

Thanks

This is not possible.  Windows is not natively capable of being moved from machine to machine in that manner.  You could install a fresh copy of Windows on external media and copy all of your old files over.  Its time consuming but here is a link to some instructions regarding how you can accomplish this.
Is it possible to use Boot Camp with Windows 10 from an external HDD?


White Screen edges on Macbook Pro 2014 I have a MacBook Pro 15 inch, 2014 model, with 2 GPUs: Intel and NVIDIA 750M.

Last Monday I turned it on and I noticed that the screen is white as you can see in the picture.

The problem is that when I keep the Mac turned on for some time (>2 hours) the screen goes back to normal without white edges.

When I turn it off and keep it turned off for a while, then turn it on again it becomes white again and I must wait >2 hours so I can see my screen without this whiting effect.

This looks like a well known hardware problem.

I had the same Problem after falling asleep on my Macbook, the pressure destroyed the Display.

You should contact Apple and get the Display replaced.


Can iPhone work with Bose dock and a Bluetooth speaker at the same time I have a Bose docking station and was thinking of buying a wireless bluetooth Bose speaker as well for the living room

If I play my iPhone on the docking station in the kitchen, will the blootooth still work to play the portable speaker in the living room?

so music is being played in both rooms simultaneously.

No - the iPhone will only send audio to one of the two, with the physical speaker it is attached to being the preference.

You could possibly have the physical speaker output sound and send it to the Bose wireless but that's the only thing I can think of.


Any way to launch a separate instance of Google Chrome with a custom icon? I'm using this command

'/Applications/Google Chrome.app/Contents/MacOS/Google Chrome' --user-data-dir=/foo/bar

to launch a separate instance of Chrome which I use solely for chat (WhatsApp, Messenger, etc.) which is very handy, but when I Command-Tab to switch between it and my primary Chrome instance they both have the same icon.

Is there any way to use a custom icon for this instance?

(I know about apps like Franz and Rambox but they don't allow the use of certain text Services which I need.)

You could do all this via the Finder instead, along the following lines:

Within Finder, navigate to your Google Chrome app
Select (but do not launch) the Google Chrome app
Press commandC to copy the app
Press commandV to paste the app
Now you will have two copies of the Google Chrome browser
Select the second copy (but do not launch it)
Press commandI to get info of the app
Now navigate to wherever you have the icon you'd like to use and also Get Info (commandI) for that
In the Get Info window for the icon, select the icon at the top left and press commandC to copy the icon
Navigate back to the Get Info window for the second copy of Google Chrome (the one you opened up at Step 7)
Select the Google Chrome icon and paste (commandV) the icon you copied at Step 9
While you're at it, you may want to rename the second copy of Google Chrome

Now when you launch the two copies of Google Chrome, they will each have a separate icon.


External Display is connected but only shows blue I have a early 2015 Retina Macbook. I recently got a Dell 1707FP monitor to use as an external display and I have an Aukey CB-C26 hub that provides me with an HDMI port. I'm using an Amazon basics HDMI to VGI cable. When I connect the monitor, the laptop recognizes an external monitor is connected but the monitor is just a blank blue screen. I know the cable works because when I connect using the same cable to my Windows laptop the monitor works fine. I also know my Aukey adapter works when I connect it to my TV using an HDMI cable.

Here's the odd thing. If I restart my Macbook while it's connected to the external display, when the login page appears it appears on the external display. As soon as I put in my password, the display flickers and goes blue while the Macbook screen wakes up. So, the display is getting a usable signal at least some of the time. Any idea what is causing the blue screen on the external display and if there's anything I can do to change it?

There are a number of possible causes and related solutions, but let's start with the most obvious solution first.

Reset your PRAM/NVRAM

Older Macs had what's called Parameter RAM (PRAM), newer Macs use Non-Volatile Random-Access Memory (NVRAM). I suggest you reset this, here’s how:

Shut down your machine. Yes, a full shut down, not just logging out.
Press the power button and then press the commandoptionpr keys. You have to make sure you press these keys before the gray screen appears or it won’t work.
Hold those keys down until your Mac reboots again and you here the startup chime.
Let go of the keys and let your Mac reboot normally.

Note: When you log back in you may need to readjust some of your system preferences (e.g. mouse speed, time and date/timezone, etc).

Give this a go and report back with how you go.


iPhone photo recovery I transferred my photos to the stream and they were all there, I went back recently and noticed a section was deleted, is there any way possible for me to recover those photos?

Check to see if they are in the recently deleted album.


What security settings should one use with Keychain? I'm a new to Mac and found that Keychain has gathered quite a lot of passwords so far. I'm concerned about the security of these data, and I would like what security settings would you recommend so that my keychain data is secure?

Maximum security if you’re that worried. Otherwise, just enable Lock when sleeping.

I’m not that worried because to view the password in Keychain Items requires your account password.


Macbook Air logic board upgrade Maybe it is silly question, but is it possible to install logic board from Macbook Air i5/i7 to Macbook 1.1 body? Original Core2Duo with 2Gb of RAM is really slow for programming.

I think you're out of luck. From iFixit, here's the logic board from the original MacBook Air:

And here's the logic board from a 2012 MacBook Air:

Unlike desktops, which typically use standardized parts, laptops use fairly specialized components, and on top of that, Apple tends to iterate its designs fairly aggressively even within models with similar outwards appearance to achieve better cost or performance (e.g. smaller logic boards means more space for the battery). Because of this, most Apple components beyond hard drives and RAM are only interchangeable with those of the exact same generation.


iCloud: How can I create a calendar event for next 3 days for a specific time? Is there a quick way to make calendar events for 3 days in a row for like 8am to 4pm without having to make 3 seperate events?

Eg.  Make event for 8am to 4pm and repeat for next 3 days ONLY.

Can't see anyway of doing this using the iPhone interface or the iCloud interface.

Create an Event, and then select "Repeat => Every Day" and click "Done" - you'll now see a new option below "Repeat" called "End Repeat" where you then choose e.g. a date 3 days from today.


Is it possible to check the DNS server you're using on the iphone? on windows, you'd use something like ipconfig /all to see the dns server you're hitting.

What would u do on an iphone or mobile device?

You can see the DNS assigned to the Wi-Fi in Settings → Wi-Fi, then tapping on the blue arrow next to the network you're connected to. I'm not sure if it's possible to do the same for the cellular connection however.


Is it worth upgrading my AP Extreme to the new one that supports 802.11ac? I currently have the 802.11n model and all my devices run on 802.11n is there any benefit to the 802.11ac upgrade or should I just wait?

If you have devices that use Wireless ac, I would definately upgrade. However, if you do not, don't bother with it.


How to have certain *windows* start in different spaces during start up? Is there a way to have certain windows of an app open in specific spaces?

Whenever I start up my computer, all my log in items get mashed into one space.

I'm using OSX 10.7.5 Lion

Edit: I would like to use textedit in any space, but if I assign it to space#3, for instance, then everytime I use textedit, it switches to space#3 unless I manually drag it to the space I need. Is there a way to do this?

Put the app on the space you want it on.

Right click on the app in the Dock and select "Options -> Assign To... This Desktop"

Then the apps should keep their assignments, even through log out and reboot.


Safari 6 “Debug” menu: explain choices? There are certain menu items in the Safari 6 Debug menu which I want to understand.

First, I’ll list the menu items; then, the information I would like to know for each of the items; and finally, I’ll post screenshots of the Debug menu and its submenus for context.

Specific menu items I’m interested in:

Use Buffered Windows
Use Single-process Windows
All items under Drawing/Compositing Flags ►
All items under Miscellaneous Flags ►

Wanted Information

what the menu item does
use cases where it would help performance
use cases where it would hinder performance
use cases where performance would probably not be affected

Screenshots of the Debug Menu

Screenshots from Safari 6.

Debug:
(submenu) Drawing/Compositing Flags ►:
(submenu) Miscellaneous Flags ►:

Use Buffered Windows :
for each window, there will be another window that is off screen. The reason for this is that when the window the user is interacting with needs updating (ie, you move the mouse over the window) the WindowServer simply needs to copy the damaged region from the offscreen window and blast it over to the visible one. Similarly when the content of your window changes, applications are only supposed to update the region that changed. This drawing is performed on the buffer, which then is copied over to the 'visible' window.
Use Single-process Windows:

puts all open tabs inside a single safari proccess instead of several ones.


Looking for suggestions on scheduling iCloud Photo Library uploads I have a 57GB photo library that I would like to keep in iCloud Photo library, the only problem is that my ISP absolutely murders my download speed whenever I'm uploading anything.

Is there a way that I can schedule Photos to upload my library only during off-peak hours (rather than waking up at 2am, un-pausing the upload and then pausing it again at 7am manually).

I was thinking maybe a third party application like Little Snitch might work (I've never tried it) or something along those lines, maybe even some kind of Apple Script.

I'm a bit over my head with this so I need some help

It's a bit complex but here's a way.

How to Throttle iCloud Photo Library Uploads


Why is date modified for a folder earlier than date modified for files inside in Finder? I’ve noticed that when I check the Date Modified for a folder and then open it, some files inside have a Date Modified later than the folder itself. This is confusing, because I sometimes sort folders by date only to find later that there're folders with stuff that was modified later. I'm using MacOS High Sierra.

Folders (on MacOS) are more generally called directories, and that's a better description. Each folder is a list of its contents. A folder is modified when the list changes, that is, when a item (a file or a sub-folder) is added, moved or deleted from the list.

Modifying a folder's files or sub-folders does not change the list, so changing a file does not change the folder's modification date. If a file or sub-folder is added or deleted from the folder, then the list is changed and the folder's modification date changes. That's why a folder's modification date is often older that the modification dates of its contents.

Here are some other questions and answers that mention the same issue.

When does a UNIX directory change its timestamp
Timestamps of a directory?
Does change of a file in a directory not change the time of the directory?


New to Macbook Pro, need help upgrading I was recently gifted an old Mid 2010 Macbook Pro with the following specs listed here:

http://www.everymac.com/systems/apple/macbook_pro/specs/macbook-pro-core-i7-2.66-aluminum-15-mid-2010-unibody-specs.html

I would like to do a few things to it, but I have never owned an apple computer before and I know there are some restrictions on the hardware i can purchase to upgrade it.

These are the things I want to do

1) Upgrade Ram: Currently it has 2x2GB of RAM in it. This model is rated for up to 8GB but I have been reading online and it seems some people have been able to successfully install 16GB of RAM, so i am confused. Does anyone have a definitive statement on whether or not this Macbook Pro will work with 16GB of RAM? If it does accept 16GB total which RAM should i buy for a Macbook Pro like this? If it only accepts 8GB total which RAM should i buy? And I know the clock speed must be 1066Hz for this Macbook Pro, but can i use DDR3, or DDR4 RAM? Does the DDR type matter?

2) Install Secondary Hard Drive: I am not 100% so i need someone to inform me but i believe there is space in this Macbook Pro for a second hard drive. Does the CD Drive need to be removed in order for a second Hard Drive to be put in? Or is there simply space inside it for a second hard drive but not installed by Apple? Either way I would like to install an SSD into it and install the Operating System onto that SSD. Which SSD can i look to buy that is compatible with this  Pro?

3) Fresh install of Mac OSX: As it currently stands my friend who gave this laptop to me didn't erase his data. I am uncomfortable with this and want a fresh start. How do I do a fresh install of Mac OSX Mavericks (or should i wait for Yosemite?). Where can i buy a Disk/USB for it (or make a disk/USB for it) to do a clean install and how do i format a Macbook Pros hard drive and install fresh? Should this be done at an apple store?

4) Higher Screen Resolution: This is my lowest priority and I don't think it is possible to do without major invasive changes to the Macbook Pro but i want to know if it is possible. Currently the Max Resolution on the Device is 1440x900, i would like to know if it is possible to replace the LCD with one that is 1920x1080 for high resolution.

1) RAM Upgrade
As far as I'm aware, the laptop cannot be upgraded beyond 8GB. This is due to restrictions by the CPU and chipset architecture in that particular model. Unless you are a real power user who does lots of video editing or likes to have a lot of applications open at a single given point in time, 8GB should be perfectly fine.
DDR4 ram is NOT supported. It is only a new technology (literally only about a month old) and presently is only compatible with 3 CPU's that were released this year and certain motherboards with a specific chipset and socket for these new CPU's. Bottom line is, your 2010 laptop will not be able to use this type of memory. DDR3 is your only option given the type and generation of hardware inside the laptop.

2) Secondary HDD
It is possible to install a second hard drive, however this will involve removing the CD drive. This will also cause trouble if you ever take the laptop to a genius bar for technical assistance on an unrelated failed component as you have tinkered with the laptop beyond what is allowed. If you're willing to take the risk and do some DIY within the laptop, this is the part that will allow you to install a secondary drive.

3) Fresh Install of OSX
Yes. Wipe it clean now with Mavericks. Updating to Yosemite when it launches will be extremely simple so there's no need to wait for it. Use this guide to help you create a bootable installer USB drive to completely wipe the drive and put a fresh install of Mavericks on the computer.

4) Higher screen resolution
Unfortunately you cannot modify the screen resolution. No such third party screen exists. Generally speaking 15" laptops (especially around the 2010 time period) never had 1920x1080 resolutions and only few laptops today have them (commonly known as high density displays, or in the apple world, retina displays). Only the 17" model had a resolution that high (1920x1200 - 16:10 aspect ratio) and that model has been discontinued for a few years now. So I'm afraid that you're stuck with the resolution you've got.


iPod Touch WiFi strength declining Over the last few weeks I have noticed that some WiFi access points just aren't registering on my iPod Touch. It used to connect to my home WiFi as soon as I pulled up in the car outside, and got that 'meep' noise as emailed synced.

Now whenever I turn it on, it doesn't always connect to the Access Point. Even when it is connected the signal strength is only 1 bar, whereas before it was always full(ish) strength. The Access Point is 8 feet away outside my bedroom, on the landing.

I don't know if it's related but about 4 months ago the iPod Touch went down the toilet. So I washed it with plenty of clean water, and left in a tub of silica gel type stuff for a few days before charging and it's worked pretty much fine ever since. Apart from one brief episode a couple of months ago when the screen was flashing between the icons and a full white display for a few seconds.

Thanks in advance for any suggestions / recommendations.

Sounds like corrosion in either the antenna or antenna connection.  If you are a DIY-type, you could open it up, check it, and perhaps fix it if it is the antenna connection.  Otherwise, time for a new Touch.


Changing page background colour of a Pages document I am creating a simple document in Pages.app consisting mostly of text. I wish to visualize it with different colour for text and page background.

While I am easily able to change the colour of the text, I am unable to do so for the page itself. Searching the Web lead me to the Apple Support document, Pages for Mac: Change the page background in Pages which wasn't useful, as I was not able to find the relevant option in Pages.app.

I am using the current latest Pages version 7.3 (5989) running on macOS Mojave 10.14.3.

Per that support document, you can only change the background colour of a Page Layout document, or one of its master pages. By default, Pages creates new documents as Word Processing documents (which don't have master pages), so you will need to select File > Convert to Page Layout before the background fill option appears.

Note that this will remove any body text that you'd previously entered, so you might need to start with a new document, convert that to Page Layout, and copy your content over.


Is it possible to schedule my laptop to mute and unmute based on calendar events? I would like my mac (OSX 10.9) to automatically mute during meetings.  I have a fully abstracted calendar, with several sub calendars.

Any apps?
Any Automator tricks?

Open Automator app

Click on Calender and find and Drag the Find Calender Events

Select the Event has attendees! (obviously :) !

On left select the Utilities and find drag the set computer volume to the right.

Run a test in Automator to verify the Mute is activated, and save the file.


Does the iPhone X use facial recognition hardware? Does the iPhone X use Facial Recognition hardware not found in previous models? Or is the algorithm executed on the CPU?

Both. The iPhone X's True Depth Camera uses hardware unique to the X, specifically an infrared camera, an IR flood illuminator, and a dot projector to measure the depth of your face. The regular FaceTime camera is used for color information and iOS software handles facial recognition, but not concerning the "fingerprint" of your face for Face ID - facial detection works in realtime on all current iPhones and facial recognition exists in the photos app via software.

The True Depth camera does all the heavy lifting for Face ID. Additionally, Face ID works in the dark because of the IR camera, flood illuminator, and dot projector. Without this hardware, the regular FaceTime camera could be fooled by a sheet of paper with a person's face on it.


How to prevent uTorrent from autolaunching at startup? When I start my Mac each time I am faced with uTorrent opening automatically. I went to Share Preferences -> User -> LoginApp to check if this app is chosen, but no...

So how to remove this app from autolaunch?

If you use the web app version - see this answer - https://apple.stackexchange.com/a/394352/5472
Those still using the app, this guide will solve the problem:
Stop uTorrent from Opening at Startup with Mac OSX - wikihow Instructions
The steps from the link are:

Open uTorrent
Click on uTorrent beside the "apple" and click Preferences
Click on General
Uncheck the box. Under Program Startup there are two options. Uncheck the second one that says Start uTorrent when Mac starts up

This stops the uTorrent app launch the next startup.


Change EXIF meta-data of multiple images in single click I ran into big problem yesterday night.

I took out my old digital camera, and started using it without setting current date and time.

All photos clicked now have date as Jan 01, 2009

I want to change the date and time (and other EXIF image meta-data) of multiple images.

Please recommend some software which can process on multiple images in single click/go.

ExifTool is the one to go for.

It has a time shift feature that allows you to shift the dates.

    Date/Time Shift Feature

  Have you ever forgotten to set the date/time on your digital camera
  before taking a bunch of pictures? ExifTool has a time shift feature
  that makes it easy to apply a batch fix to the timestamps of the
  images (ie. change the "Date Picture Taken" reported by Windows
  Explorer). Say for example that your camera clock was reset to
  2000:01:01 00:00:00 when you put in a new battery at
  2005:11:03 10:48:00. Then all of the pictures you took subsequently
  have timestamps that are wrong by 5 years, 10 months, 2 days, 10 hours
  and 48 minutes. To fix this, put all of the images in the same
  directory ("DIR") and run exiftool:

  exiftool "-DateTimeOriginal+=5:10:2 10:48:0" DIR

  The example above changes only the DateTimeOriginal tag, but any
  writable date or time tag can be shifted, and multiple tags may be
  written with a single command line. Commonly, in JPEG images, the
  DateTimeOriginal, CreateDate and ModifyDate values must all be
  changed. For convenience, a shortcut tag called AllDates has been
  defined to represent these three tags. So, for example, if you forgot
  to set your camera clock back 1 hour at the end of daylight savings
  time in the fall, you can fix the images with:

  exiftool -AllDates-=1 DIR

  See Image::ExifTool::Shift.pl (download in PDF format) for
  details about the syntax of the time shift string.

Some things to note:

Test on a small batch of copies first until you get the date syntax you want.

I suggest you copy or move your images to a new folder first.
And run the command on that directory.

If you run exiftool on a directory it will look in sub directories and modify any image files it finds.

Exiftool WILL automatically append '_original' on the end of your original files and create a new copy for you with the modifications.

You can override this by using the '-overwrite_original' option.

exiftool  -overwrite_original -AllDates+="0:2:1 10:48:0" /Users/UserName/Desktop/testFolder

This example shifts forward   0 years, 2 months, 1 day,  10 hours, 48 minutes, 0 seconds.

Using a single set of time shifts i.e instead of "0:2:1 10:48:0" you use "10:48:0". Exiftool will see this as hh:mm:ss.
And you can omit 0 where you do not want to put a shift.

exiftool  -overwrite_original AllDates+="9::" /Users/UserName/Desktop/testFolder

This example shifts forward 9 hours.

   exiftool  -overwrite_original -AllDates-="9::" /Users/UserName/Desktop/testFolder

This example shifts back 9 hours.

Notice AllDates-="  and AllDates+="  , one has a plus one has a minus.

Also Remember you are shifting time not stamping a time stamp.

So if my original date was :
2011:07:21 01:41:29

and I used exiftool  -overwrite_original -AllDates-="24::" /Users/UserName/Desktop/testFolder

Then I would get : 2011:07:20 01:41:29

Do download the PDF with the syntax

And make sure you look at the difference with the options -overwrite_original_in_place  and -overwrite_original
Documentation


Text unselected when clicking to activate Terminal window (OS X Lion) I've noticed this behavior in Lion's Terminal.app:

Let's say I have some text selected in a non-active terminal window. Meaning, another window is active - it could be another terminal window, or another app's window. If I click on the window with the selected text without clicking the selection itself, the text remains selected when the window is activated. However, if the click happens to be on the selected text, the text becomes unselected.

Is there a way to prevent the unselect behavior? I have to consciously avoid clicking the selection, otherwise I need to re-select (very annoying because text-selection often requires precise pointer movement).
The behavior is also inconsistent for no apparent reason - why have special behavior if the text is clicked?

UPDATE

This only seems to happen with the Basic profile (I haven't tested all of them though). If I use something like Grass or Homebrew, the selection is retained.

If you're perturbed every time you move the mouse (like me), you could alway try switching to keystrokes.

For example, to switch between open applications, use CMD+Tab, and then between windows using CMD+~

Another useful way to get around with the keyboard is to use Tab to move between all controls using the Keyboard control panel in System Preferences like so:


Best 3rd party RAM for MacBook Pros? I recently bought a 15" MacBook Pro (Late 2011) with 4GB of RAM. I want to upgrade to 8GB, but I've read that MacBooks can be kind of picky when it comes to RAM and will not operate right if it is given low quality RAM. So, barring RAM that you buy from Apple (Which is $400 for 8GB of RAM), what is the best RAM I can get for performance and price?

Looks like thats the same RAM as in my 13" Macbook Pro (Late 2011) 204-pin PC-10600 (1333 MHz) DDR3 SO-DIMM? If so, I recently picked up 8GB (2 x 4GB kit) from Crucial UK for £35. There is also Crucial US and the same kit looks to be $46 as far as I can tell. All seems fine and it's working perfectly as I type this! I've always bought my Mac RAM from Crucial without any problems.


Can't plot with gnuplot on my Mac I am trying to plot with gnuplot on my Mac (OS X 10.8.5). I have installed X11 and XQuartz 2.7.4 and after that I installed gnuplot, but unfortunately gnuplot couldn't plot.

Simple plots like the following fail to render and have no error message to help understand what is amiss:

 [1/10/13 $gnuplot >plot sin(x)

The same thing happened to me, but then I ran

brew uninstall gnuplot; brew install gnuplot --with-x11

and installed XQuartz. Now gnuplot supports the x11 terminal:

You can also save the output to a file and use qlmanage -p:

gnuplot -e 'set term png; set output "/tmp/plot.png"; plot sin(x)'; qlmanage -p /tmp/plot.png

qlmanage -p shows a sandboxing error in 10.9 and prints some unnecessary text to STDOUT, so I use a function like ql() { qlmanage -p "$@"&>/dev/null; } in shells.

A third option is to use set term dumb for plain text output.


Does Graphic Card affects on picture quality and color depth? For upgrading to Mojave, I had to change my old Nvidia cheap card to a new AMD Radeon Metal 2 support card. I have an IPS monitor and did not change it, but from when I did change the card I feel picture quality is much better and colors are very clear and natural! I an an Elec. Engineer and I know colors are sent using numbers to the monitor (Display Port is a digital interface). So the picture quality AFAIK must not relate to Graphic Card, but just to monitor which has not changed.
Am I right? Or there is something like color scheme or so that changes my imagination about this topic?

DisplayPort is a digital interface, yes. The actual display signal is sent essentially as 0's and 1's in a packetized protocol that ensures that either (1) what is sent by the computer is what is received by the monitor, or (2) the monitors knows that the something is wrong with the signal and will usually just show blank (black) screen.

In practice there are some other factors playing into it. DisplayPort comes in various versions supporting various sets of features. In addition DisplayPort supports several transfer speeds, so a "low quality" cable might only support slower speeds (i.e. lower resolution, color depth and/or frames per second) compared to a "high quality" cable. Beyond this some transfer modes employ a lossy compression, which is commonly referred to as "visually lossless" - i.e. in the digital sense you're not getting the exact same data before and after compression/decompression, but to the viewer it looks (almost) the same.

That being said, it is not so that the graphics card has no influence on picture quality at all. Nothing could be further from the truth. The programs on the computer are not spitting out DisplayPort packets that the graphics is simply responsible for transferring from the PC to the monitor. The graphics card performs a lot of duties in between the input from the operating system and running applications, and the output to the monitor.

Essentially an old, low-quality graphics card might for example only offer low resolution, low color depth, few color spaces and color formats, etc. when compared to a newer and/or higher-quality graphics card. When you look at 3D (for games or very graphical applications) there's tonnes of other features that the graphics card might or might not support in various degrees of quality and speeds. These can affect the image quality hugely.

Besides the above mentioned, you might also experience better quality simply because you had a non-optimal setup/configuration of your old graphics card. Or it might be because the new operating system install contains better drivers.


Command line equivalent of Disk Utility, which is not diskutil, to obtain UUID Following on from the answer to Can you make OSX mount just certain partitions when you connect an external HDD?, all of the sites that I have checked (CNET, OSXDaily, Apple Support community threads) say that you have to use Disk Utility (or the command line diskutil info /dev/disk<X>s<Y>) to find the UUID.

Is there a command line equivalent that will give me this information, which is not diskutil? In particular, one that will work in single user mode?

Why diskutil does not work

In single user mode (at least on Mountain Lion) after running:

/sbin/fsck -fy
/sbin/mount -uw /

running:

diskutil info disk0s5

gives the following error

Unable to run because unable to use the DiskManagement framework.
Common reasons include, but are not limited to, the DiskArbitration
framework being unavailable due to being booted in single user mode.

Background

My issue is that I have a dying partition on my internal disk, which only holds an out of date Snow Leopard OS, but is slowing down my Mac (unbearably), as the console is (repeatedly) reporting:

kernel: disk0s5: I/O error.

I no longer boot into Snow Leopard as I boot Mountain Lion which is on an external FireWire disk, so I would like to leave the Snow Leopard partition unmounted, using the line

UUID=XXXXXXXX-XXXX-XXXX-XXXX-XXXXXXXXXXXX none hfs rw,noauto

in /etc/fstab.

However, to obtain the UUID of the faulty partition, I have to open up Disk Utility and have the faulty partition mounted, which is a torturously slow process (it takes Disk Utility about twenty minutes to open).

TL;DR -
Can I obtain the UUID of the internal partition, when booting into single user mode of an OS stored on a partition which is on an external FW disk?

Update:

IOReg gives the partition UUID, not the volume UUID, as it operates below the HFS layer. I had incorrectly assumed that the device UUID was required rather than the volume UUID because it was substituting for a device node. To get the volume UUID, use hfs.util. For example:

/System/Library/Filesystems/hfs.fs/Contents/Resources/hfs.util -k disk0s3

Replace "disk0s3" with whatever the "device identifier" of your volume. This is different to the "device node" (which is "/dev/disk0s3" in this case").

Original IOReg details:

You can run ioreg -c IOMedia -r to show the device tree for the disk devices in your system. This should give a manageable amount of output (as compared to ioreg -l, which shows everything).

If you want to just extract UUIDs, you can ioreg -c IOMedia -r | grep UUID, but the downside is that you lose context.

The diskutil information is interesting; it obviously depends on daemons that do not run in single user mode.


Preserving "hidden" attribute when copying from NTFS to HFS+? I have an NTFS volume that I am copying into a new HFS+ volume. I'm using the following command to copy everything including all hidden directories and attributes:

sudo rsync -aAXvF --del --chmod=F-x,go-w /Volumes/NTFS/ /Volumes/HFS

The F-x,go-w is there to fix the permissions from NTFS (which has simply rwxrwxrwx on everything). -a (archive), -A (ACLs), and -X (xattrs) force rsync to copy as much file metadata as possible.

However, one quirk of this copy is that Windows hidden files (e.g. $RECYCLE.BIN, System Volume Information, etc.) still show up as visible in HFS+. Is there a flag I could pass to rsync or a similar command that could preserve this metadata bit?

I don't have a ntfs partition to test it, but my man rsync documents the -E switch:

-E, --extended-attributes
          Apple specific option to copy extended attributes, resource forks, and ACLs.
          Requires at least Mac OS X 10.4 or suitably patched rsync.

I don't know if that helps, but it's worth a try.

Another thing to try would be to use the ntfs-3g driver to mount the partition, which includes the hide_hid_files option:

  Hide the hidden files and directories in directory listings, the hidden files and directories being the ones whose NTFS attribute have the hidden flag set. The hidden files will not be selected when using wildcards in commands, but all files and directories remain accessible by full name, for example you can always display the Windows trash bin directory by : "ls -ld '$RECYCLE.BIN'".

I assume ntfs-3g translates ntfs' hidden attribute before presenting the file to the system. rsync might then be able to preserve it. ntfs-3g can be installed via Homebrew.

If that fails, too, you will likely have to hide the files yourself. To do so you may use either chflags hidden <file> or prepend the file with a .. Both will hide the files in Finder. If you use the terminal frequently, you may prefer prepending the ., as it also hides the files from regular ls output (without the -a switch)


All apps unresponsive in iMac All Apps on my iMac are completely unresponsive. The only one working is Safari.
I tried to repair the volume, repair disk permission, PRAM reset, clearing all caches, running periodic scripts.

The Apps show a UI and load it (i.e. the App Store reloads it's content), but there is no way to interact.

Unfortunately, running a permissions fix on the hard drive with Disk Utility will not check or fix the permissions of user accounts, and instead will only tackle faults with system file and application access.

You need to repair your home folder (user) since the other user works.

Reset Home Folder permissions and ACLs Error

Follow the instructions here.

or more clear here


How can I remove a folder that no longer exists from my Finder sidebar in Lion? There is a folder in my favorites in the sidebar of the finder on my Mac. That folder no longer exists, but for some reason it started showing up again as soon as I upgraded to Lion

When I right-click to delete the folder, nothing happens. Normally, for most folders, I see a "Remove from Sidebar" option, but alas, I do not for this folder.

Does anyone know a way to edit this list from the terminal? Has anyone else experienced this problem and found a solution?

I was having the same issue and here's what just worked for me:

Hold command, then drag it off the Favorites bar.  The item will turn into a little "poof" white cloud and when you release, it'll go away! Finally!


Why is Git not found after installing OS X Lion? I just upgraded to OS X Lion and now cannot initialize Git where it used to work fine:

$ git add .

-bash: git: command not found

I'm new to Git and to programming, so I'm sure it's a quick fix, any help is greatly appreciated.  Thanks guys!

If /usr/local/git already exists, you'll need to either add it to your $PATH or make a symlink placing the symlink inside a directory that is in your existing PATH.

A common practice is to make /usr/local/bin if it doesn't exist and add a link:

sudo -s
mkdir -p /usr/local/bin
ln -s /usr/local/git/bin/git /usr/local/bin/git
exit


How do spam email accounts get onto devices? My mom recently asked me about an email inbox on her phone called "My Weather". She didn't know what it was or how it got on the phone. It had 200+ emails in it and all were product or service offers from obscure websites. Basically just spam. Although, amusingly, there were new emails every day with a weather forecast. Funny. Anyway I checked email settings on the phone and there was an email account that was not my mom's with an address that went something like "FirstnameLastname157@minbox.email". There was no option to delete it like a normal account so I looked up minbox.email and found an Apple discussion forum on it. While this explains how to delete it, I want to know how it got on the phone in the first place, and what exactly it is. It must have been from a link in Safari or an email that opened something in Safari. I didn't think this was possible on iOS or any mobile device. I found very little information when searching for it. Maybe if I checked the next few Google pages... But you would think something like this would be a popular topic on forums. I did find this website which seems very suspicious: https://minbox.com/ Although this website asks you to enter an email address and it looks very poorly made, it's not definitive evidence that that's where the software came from.

If anyone has any information about this it would be greatly appreciated.

Check http:// minbox.email/join#/ (not linking them here though, don't want to generate traffic to their site); they offer a free email inbox in exchange of receiving spam. As of how they configure the email account on your device, it appears that it is made through a Configuration Profile.
I tried to verify myself by creating an email but couldn't end the process because of an error on their end.

You or anyone can create a configuration profile to

  (...)quickly distribute groups of settings and access powerful
  management features that aren’t normally available.

Then

  You could email the configuration profile to someone–including
  yourself–or offer it for download on a website. When someone taps the
  email attachment in the Mail app or downloads the configuration
  profile file from a website, they’ll be prompted to install it on
  their iPhone or iPad.

(from this article).

Note that your mother would have had to accept the prompt in order to apply the Configuration Profile.

It's also important to understand that this may be a vehicle for malicious configurations as explained in this article.


How do I flip a video that is recorded upside down I recorded a video upside down on my iPad Air 2. How do I flip it. I twisted it with my fingers, but it won't stay.

This works on my Mac with OS X Yosemite 10.10.4.
Open it in Quicktime.
Under the edit menu should be options for rotating. Once you have done that just export the rotated video in the format you want.


Disappearing Alerts - Notification Center not working as per Preference Settings I'm trying to understand how to get Notifications working properly in Mountain Lion.  I understand all the concepts about how to enable them, and configure them etc, but it doesn't seem to work as advertised.

I'll use Safari as my example here:

I have the following preferences set in both System Preferences, and Safari's Notification Preferences tab:

As you can see, I set the alert style such that any alert should stay on screen until dismissed, and the most recent 5 alerts should remain unless dismissed within the notification centre "tray".

Now, when I trigger alerts (and to do this I have been enabling desktop alerts in the Ask Different Chat Room and getting people to ping my name) I am getting numerous odd behaviour.

Sometimes when I receive the alerts, I can see them appear both in the top right, and also in the "tray", but if I ignore them, they not only go away automatically (they shouldn't, I am not using banner alerts) but they also subsequently remove themselves from the tray without any action on my part.

Other times the notifications refuse to show and only appear in the Notification Center without ever popping up properly - I think that this happens with Safari minimised.

I have switched them to banner type and back, and no change.  But it seems to work fine in Mail, the alerts (set as Banners in its case) show, disappear when they should, but the most recent 5 remain in the tray as expected, but I cannot get any to stay in the tray for Safari at all.  I have tested notifications through Twitter and Messages also, with banner and alert styles, and these all seem to operate normally.

I made the following screen captures that shows an alert style notification simply disappearing without any acknowledgement within Notification Center, and also one that shows them failing to show at all:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SUiR3cFrEw4&feature=youtube_gdata_player

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=89q5r6OpThM&feature=youtube_gdata_player

Anyone know if this is a Safari, or a NC bug? Any other apps that behave in a similar fashion?  Any ways to "fix" it?

Extra:
After checking the comments and talking this through (and testing) extensively in chat, it seems that lots of people have similar issues.  I have come across people just not getting any full stop using the same config as me above, and Chrome users getting the same results too so it looks like a NC issue, not Safari.  Feel free to add your issues if you have any as comments, I will try to expand the question if I spot a common theme.  I have not yet read anything that indicates it's massively widespread, but anecdotally on here and in chat it seems that it's not just me.  The following answers were removed for being "me too", but show that others are experiencing the same issues:

I'm seeing the exact same thing w/safari and gmail. the alerts pop up correctly and I can see the notification show up in notification center. But as soon as the alert "bubble" goes away, the item is removed from notification center. If I open the mail application and configure the gmail account those email alerts show up in notification center fine.

answered Jul 26 at 15:03

JDR

o answer I'm afriad but I'm having the same issue with mail and Notificaiton Centre. My iCloud (previously MobileMe) email and Gmail are not producing notifications.

However, NC does seem to work for my iCalendar items and the App Store update.

answered Jul 27 at 8:13

Sam

I'm not getting any notifications at all. Neither popups nor in the notification center. I've added both my hotmail & gmail accounts in the mail settings, configured the notification settings, sent test emails from other accounts, and nothing. Not sure if there's something simple I'm missing or if it's an issue with the new OS. Anyone else have this issue? Solution anyone?

answered Jul 26 at 22:27

Lion in SD

I'm a Mac OS X developer and I just finished adding Notification Center support to my app. For what it's worth, here's what I found out:

By default, notifications (the alerts) are NOT shown if the application is already frontmost (this explains why alerts refuse to show up sometimes, and you only see the notification in Notification Center). This is up to given applications to overwrite and it is not very straightforward, so do expect most applications to not show notifications when they're active. In my opinion, this is very annoying.
The application, after sending a notification still has a lot of control over that given notification. It can remove it from your screen at any time it wants, regardless of the settings you have. Basically, if Safari, for some reason was set to remove notifications after X seconds, it will do that, your settings do not matter.

I have no idea if this is a bug in Safari or Notification Center, or both. However, I am fairly confident that there is nothing you can do about the second issue (there might be a hidden defaults setting for the first one, but I haven't heard of it). I did check the WebKit API Specification, to make sure it's not something that the individual websites are doing, and you can rule out websites from your suspect's list, because they do not have any control over the notifications.

I guess we'll have to wait and see if Apple will address this in its next bug fix release (10.9). However, by the looks of it, not showing notifications when the app is frontmost is a "feature", so don't get your hopes up.


Update from os x 10.4 to 10.9 with time machine backup I have a iMac (compatible with os x 10.9) running 10.4 Tiger.

How do I upgrade this to OSX 10.9 as AppStore is not available under 10.4.

I do have a time machine backup from my macbook pro running mac os x 10.9. Is it possible to import the 10.9 time machine backup to my old imac running tiger?

You can create a bootable Mavericks USB flash drive or DVD on your Macbook Pro (the 10.9) machine using the steps in this Apple note

You can then boot your iMac off this media and install 10.9

You can connect the iMac to your Time Machine backup (e.g. plug the disk in or attack via network) and during the install tell the install to get data from the Time Machine backup.

You can't install a version of  OSX from a Time Machine backup you need to install OSX first.

An alternative is to create a bootable backup from the 10.9 machine using Carbon Copy Cloner or Superduper etc and then boot the iMac from that and restore from it.


iTunes - Sorting issue. Song names that start with 'the' or 'a' I'm sorry guys if this is an easy fix. But I really couldn't find any useful info about this anywhere. iTunes ignores the 'the' and 'a' in the song names and sorts them this way. as you can see in the screenshot. This makes it extremely hard for me to crosscheck my folders with the iTunes.
Any help is appreciated. thank you

iTunes will generally import songs with a few different metadata fields. Check out this example where the name field is different from the sort as field:

As far as I know, unless these fields are updated for every song in your library, it will sort them as if the `a` or `the` weren't present.