2FA for multiple Apple IDs on same device? Apple now requires two-factor authentication on all Apple Developer Program accounts:

  In an effort to keep your account more secure, two-factor authentication will be required to sign in to your Apple Developer account and Certificates, Identifiers & Profiles starting February 27, 2019. This extra layer of security for your Apple ID helps ensure that you're the only person who can access your account. If you haven't already enabled two-factor authentication for your Apple ID, please learn more and update your security settings.

discussion about that change is aggregated here:
https://mjtsai.com/blog/2019/02/14/developer-apple-ids-to-require-two-factor-authentication/

This requirement presents a problem for people who are signed in to a personal Apple ID on their devices, but who use a separate company Apple ID for their Organization Apple Developer Account.

Ideally you could use a generic 2FA code generator, but that is not currently possible for Apple ID:

Ability to add non-SMS non-Apple 2FA to an Apple ID?

Can a single device generate 2FA verification codes for multiple Apple IDs?

Both iOS and Mac devices can sign in to multiple Apple ID accounts:

One main "iCloud" Apple ID account for the device. This is the account used for iCloud Photos and other system features. It is very disruptive to change this Apple ID.
Multiple other lesser Apple ID accounts. These can be used to sync Mail, Contacts, Calendars, Reminders, and Notes. They can also generate 2FA codes.

Your single device is able to generate 2FA codes for all of the signed-in Apple ID accounts, not just the main iCloud account.

The key is:

You must first enable 2FA for an Apple ID by using it to sign in as the main iCloud account on a device.

If you have access to a Mac, you do NOT need to sign out of your iCloud account on your iOS device or personal Mac user account (a disruptive change that should be avoided if possible).

Instead, use the workflow:

Create a temporary new local user account on a Mac.
On that user account, sign in to iCloud with your secondary Apple ID.
Signing in as the iCloud Apple ID allows you to enable 2FA for that Apple ID.
On your iOS device, add the secondary Apple ID:

Settings > Passwords & Accounts > Add Account

Or on the main user account on your Mac, add the secondary Apple ID:

System Preferences > Internet Accounts > +

Because 2FA is now enabled, signing in will require a 2FA code. Use your new local Mac user account to Allow this sign-in and see the code.

Once permission has been granted, the secondary Apple ID will be signed in on your iOS or Mac device as a lesser Apple ID used for syncing Mail, Calendars, etc. You can turn off all of those syncing services, in which case the Apple ID will be labeled inactive.

Your iOS device and/or main Mac user account is now a Trusted Device, and can be used to generate 2FA codes for both your personal Apple ID as well as the newly added secondary/company Apple ID.

Once this device is Trusted, you can delete the temporary Mac user account.


Scaling all UI elements when using an external monitor When I use my Macbook Pro's internal monitor, I have the following options in the Display settings menu:

The best thing here is the Scaled option, which means that I can use the native resolution of the screen and rescale all UI elements bigger or smaller depending on my taste and they still look very sharp.

However, when I connect my Macbook to a 2K monitor, the Scaled option is not available, I can only set the resolution. The Display settings menu looks somewhat like this:

I don't want to change the resolution of my external monitor since I always want to use the native resolution of the monitor to achieve maximum sharpness. However, in my opinion the default UI size of the Mac is a bit too small on a typical 27" 2K screen so I would like to scale all UI elements bigger (I mean all, not just fonts) as it is possible to do using the internal monitor.

According to some screenshots that I found, the scaled menu is available at least for this 4K monitor:

So my question is: Why isn't the scaled option always available when using an external monitor with Mac?

By the way, the equivalent option in Windows is to change the DPI settings, which causes all elements to look bigger and sharp and it works on all displays:

The OS X UI is not resolution-independent, the only thing you can do is to change the resolution. Which is essentially what OS X does on HiDPI screens when switching to Larger Text or More Space, but since they are retina displays, you can't see that the resolution in some cases is not native, which you definitively can on non-retina displays.

There is a terminal command to change the interface size (which I can't seem to find right now, but I have tried once in 10.6 I believe), but it doesn't work well, especially in 3rd party applications. Some are absolutely unusable.


Standard user cannot change password On my macbook, running OSX Mavericks, my daughter has a standard-user account.

I wanted to show her how to change her login password under:

SystemPreferences > Users & Groups > ChangePassword

That button was greyed out, even after the padlock was opened.

Note: she is under parental control, but even after I temporarily lifted that, changing the password was not possible.

Any ideas, on how to allow my daughter to change her login password?

Okay, I just figured out what was wrong. I had actually disabled my daughter to change her password under parental control (ages ago when I've set it up). To undo that I had to

SystemPreferences > ParentialControls > Other

where I could untick the box "Disable changing the password".


Forgotten iOS Restrictions Password/Passcode My dad put restrictions on my phone. He put it for many things that he didn't even know about. For example, downloading and deleting apps and Safari. So now that I want to do different things on my phone, I can't because my dad forgot the password.

Is there a way that I could take off the restrictions without deleting all of my things? If that isn't possible, then how can I restore my phone so the restrictions could come off? I heard that you can use find my iPhone someway so I could take off the restrictions but I'm not sure and I don't want to do the wrong thing.

There's a tool that can recover the restrictions passcode from a device backup, called Pinfinder. Follow the macOS instructions and download the tool which is a command line binary and it will recover your pin.


How do I make an exact back up of one iPod Touch to another iPod Touch? I want both iPods to be identical- including the folders and organization I have already made on the first iPod.

Sync the iPod so it creates a backup of it. Take the 2nd iPod and restore it. When you finish the restore and it begins the setup on iTunes, select that it restores as a backup of the first iPod that you just synced. From then on out you can just sync each iPod every time you add new music, etc.


Installation of El Capitan on Intel Core Duo taking so far 2 days. What can I do? I am installing OS X El Capitan on a Mid 2009 MacBook Pro. Previously running an OS X 10.8.5. Incidentally my installation is taking now two days. I have tried holding down the power button but still no difference. It resumes where it stopped I feel frustrated and I want to return to my previous operation system. What can I do? Does it mean my machine has crashed? have I lost or can I recover my work? Making matters worse I can't tell what percentage of installation achieved? Apart from the bar that has moved from 0% up to around 75% and it's stagnant at that level. I am confused on what to do.

Any assistance?

Theres not much you can do if it still says installing after all that, i think the best and safest thing you can do now is book an appointment at the apple store. You could tamper with it and maybe fix it but at this point in my opinion just take in to the store.


How do I fix the tab “Access Control” not opening in Keychain Access? In Keychain Access, I have some items where I cannot open the tab “Access Control”. When I double-click one of these items to open a window on it, the window opens with the tab “Attributes” selected; when I try to click the tab header “Access Control”, the header animates but the tab itself does not open. The tab “Attributes” remains selected.

I am not sure whether it’s related, but in Console I see repeated entries for Keychain Access that say: CSSM Exception: -2147413737 CSSMERR_DL_DATASTORE_DOESNOT_EXIST. There are also a lot of entries that say: CSSM Exception: -2147413750 CSSMERR_DL_INVALID_FIELD_NAME.

How can I fix the items so I can open the tab “Access Control” again? I am not sure whether the keychain itself is broken, is there some Terminal command I can use to verify (and repair) it? Or does “Access Control” rely on some other data store that may need repair?

Try setting category to "My Certificates" at the left bottom of "KeyChain Access" window. Then find the certificate, expend it to get the key and try changing "Access Control" on that one.


2016 Macbook SSD not able to format Laptop was working fine, then one day I turned it on and it booted up to the Question mark folder. In Disk Utility I tried to erase it just reinstall Catalina. When I try to erase it, it gets stuck on Creating Partition Map and then restarts to the Question Mark folder again. Tried resetting PRAM and SMC. Also tried diskutil in terminal as well as Disk Utility GUI,

This might be a hardware error. Maybe try to install a different version of macos. Another option is that you Boot on an external drive and try to go from there.


My iPhone was stolen and now doesn't appear in iCloud? My iPhone was just stolen and when I open iCloud it no longer lists ANY of my phones, even old ones that I still have but my kids use as iPods.  What is going on?

You haven't mentioned it, but even if you had your location services disabled and your iPhone was untrackable with "Find my iPhone," you should inform Apple that your phone was stolen. If you bought your iPhone new, then Apple will have record of that iPhone's serial number (and probably MAC address) associated with your name. If the serial number shows up in their systems, either by the thief seeking support from Apple, or by the theif's creation of an AppleID and attempting to reassociate that iPhone to their name, Apple can flag the activity as suspicious, remotely wipe the phone, or more likely, simply disable it. I highly recommend calling Apple support and reporting that your iPhone was stolen.


Is the firewall really pfctl, or another instance of pfctl? I was mucking around with pfctl a while back, didn't get very far and forgot about it.

Yesterday, I couldn't ssh into a remote machine. I disabled the firewall in system preferences but still had the problem. When I couldn't ping anything I wondered… So, I disabled pfctl with sudo pfctl -d and lo and behold ping and ssh were working again.

If pfctl was still running my ruleset regardless of whether the firewall in sys prefs was enabled or not then either:

the sys prefs firewall is a separate firewall app, not pfctl given a simple gui (as I'd assumed).
the firewall in sys prefs is a separate instance of pfctl, both can run independent of the other.

or it's something else (I like to give myself leeway). I've checked running processes and can only find Firewall, no pf/pfctl etc, I'm puzzled.

Which option is the truth?

There's no second instance of pfctl running.  Pretty much everything you have to do with pfctl requires root priviliges.

For example, just getting a listing of rules without using sudo gives a "permission denied"

$ pfctl -sr
pfctl: /dev/pf: Permission denied

Adding sudo allows you to view the current rule set:

$ sudo pfctl -sr
No ALTQ support in kernel
ALTQ related functions disabled
scrub-anchor "com.apple/*" all fragment reassemble
anchor "com.apple/*" all

The issue you may be experiencing might be related to this post:  Application Firewall is not enabling pfctl


What is JishoPlus in iCloud storage? I have storage for something called JishoPlus in my iCloud storage breakdown. I can't find anything definitive about it online. I know how to delete it (and I will), but what is it from?

From the name it seems like some kind of Japanese-English Dictionary app. Did you install something like that?


A better way to remove keyboard grease from a MacBook Air's normal keyboard? The grease stain on a black keyboard looks awful. What are the recommended steps to remove the grease?

I have found some posts online suggesting pure alcohol as a solvent. (one such CNET forum)

Is this advice trustworthy?

The ideal solution (that I've found after years of cleaning Apple products) is not to use alcohol directly. Instead, mix it with water. The proportion to mix is simple:

Three parts isopropyl alcohol
Seven parts water

I use a bottle cap, fill it with alcohol three times then the same cap with water seven times (you can use something bigger if you want more).

With that solution, you're safe to clean all your mac and the alcohol presence guarantees a slow but secure grease removal without leaving the typical alcohol stain/residue that occurs when you use pure alcohol. Also the low concentration makes it safer against things that may get damaged by the usage of pure alcohol like rubber compounds or human skin.

For occasional cleanup you can use the simple, free and excellent Keyboard Cleaner. All it does is make your screen black (so you can clean it better) and lock your keyboard so you don't trigger accidental keys while cleaning. Of course, you can always shutdown the computer too.

Regarding products like iKlear and such, they are ok, in fact I'd recommend you always get a bottle of iKlear around, it's good to have and their small wet towels are very handy for quick clean. Remember never to use toilet/kitchen paper, use instead any "approved" cloth (like iKlear, TomBihn, etc.) the "micro fibers" are designed to not scratch your surface.

I wouldn't use pure alcohol.


Mute specific program Is there any way to mute a specific program? I want to be able to mute Firefox.

Here an answer from our friends over at SuperUser.

TL;DR: You can, but only with some extra software. They suggest AudioHijack Pro


I've lost a lot of my accessory windows from some random app install To start: I'm a software dev much more comfortable on Windows than OSX. I've tinkered with things like homebrew (which is where I think I started my issue) and I'm not 100% familiar with what I may have done.

The short of it is that in Preview.app, using Export, there is no window. I know that it's trying to create the window, and I've even on occasion seen the controls associated with the window on the very lowest level of the gui stack, if I minimize everything except Preview.app. But I can't interact with anything in those windows. This applies to other windows in Preview.app.

There are other applications installed as well, such as Microsoft Remote Desktop.app (the red icon, relatively recently released) where the Import and Export windows do not appear.

It may be that I had installed XQuartz, but I removed that (and rebooted) and I'm still having issues.

How can I go about figuring out what library is probably overwriting these menus, or where to look to see what system information can help me figure out the problem?

Here's an example output from Console when I try to open the Preview.app Export window:

1/15/14 7:18:57.137 PM Preview[13893]: RVS:__54-[NSRemoteSavePanel _runOrderingOperationWithContext:]_block_invoke_0319 : Timeout occured while waiting for the window

And Microsoft Remote Desktop.app Import:
1/15/14 7:20:15.164 PM Microsoft Remote Desktop[5529]: RVS:__54-[NSRemoteSavePanel _runOrderingOperationWithContext:]_block_invoke_0319 : Timeout occured while waiting for the window

So it turns out that these two links sent me on my way. Doing a self post in case other people can find my post by googling.

Unresponsive save dialogs in Preview

http://lists.apple.com/archives/macos-x-server/2012/Aug/msg00291.html

To fix this: Disable "Documents and Data" under System Preferences > iCloud and you're on your way.

This has to be the most aggravating bug I've found in a while. Ugh.


Magic mouse 2 always on? So I just bought a new magic mouse 2 and I noticed whether I turn it off or on, it still keeps working when I move it. Does the switch at the bottom actually do anything now? Or do I have a defective one?

The switch on the bottom is the on-off switch.  The mouse should not move after you turn it off.  If it still moves after you turn it off, it's possible the switch is defective (assuming you're not also touching a trackpad or have another BT mouse connected at the same time).


Can't find or use San Francisco in apps like Sketch I understand that the font is only available for developers, but i'm not one at the moment, but when trying to use facebook sketch template for ios9 i get a prompt saying this

My question is if there is a way a round this without messing with the system default fonts as this repo does https://github.com/supermarin/YosemiteSanFranciscoFont or is it the only way?

system: macbook running osx el-capitan

Initially, you had to have a developer account. Now anyone can download the font at https://developer.apple.com/fonts/ and install them on your system (using the font book app).

Now Sketch is satisfied and it won't give you any warnings about the missing San Francisco font.


Better understanding Family Sharing (Can I share app from OSX to my iOS device?) I'm trying to figure out (for the first time) Family Sharing feature. So far I've added family members and everything seems to work fine except one thing.

I've bought from App Store Tweetbot for OSX. Is it possible to share cross-platform applications? I would like to install it on my iPad. Is it possible? Or can I share only between OSX to OSX and iOS to iOS?

Does Tweetbot (or any other app) bought for OSX is something completely different than Tweetbot for iOS? Thanks for your help.

Sorry, but one cannot share apps (all apps, not just Tweetbot) cross-platform, for whatever reason. Not with Family Sharing or iCloud. The only way to get it would be to purchase it at full price from the iOS App Store.


Xcode 5 update, why am I stuck on Xcode 3.2.6? I'm running Xcode (downloaded from the Mac App Store) on my MacBook Pro running OS X Mavericks.

The weird thing is I am running version 3.2.6, yet Xcode claims to be up to date. There are no updates in the Mac App Store.

You may have Xcode 3.2.6 from an earlier installation and are running it. Note that Xcode 3.x being a pre-MAS (Mac App Store) version, installs into the /Developer folder (by default, although it can be installed elsewhere too), whereas the Mac App Store versions (from Xcode 4 onwards) install into the /Applications folder. To run Xcode 5, make sure you're running the application from /Applications. You can also use Spotlight to find where Xcode 3.2.6 resides on your system.

If you wish to uninstall the older version (Xcode 3.2.6), open Terminal.app and uninstall it using the command:

sudo /Developer/Library/uninstall-devtools --mode=all


Torrent tracker for OSX? Why are there no small torrent trackers for Mac? I want to share some things privately with a couple of people. I've tried a webserver, which works, but there is no indication on my end that any transfer is taking place. I'd like to be able to run a server, seed a torrent with a client so I can see upload activity, and share the torrent with select people.

uTorrent for Windows has an embedded tracker feature, but it is not present for Mac.

After some trial and error, I discovered a few ways to do this. The easiest solution requiring no Windows client and no external programs is option 1. The absolute easiest method is option 2, use µTorrent for Windows.

Share between computers running µTorrent without a tracker

This assumes that your µTorrent machines can open their own ports in your firewall using uPNP or NAT-PMP. While this may work with other torrent clients, I've had the best luck when using µTorrent. Also, it seems to be one of the few that will allow us to manually add peers, the crucial step.

For simplicity, we'll call the machine with the file(s) to share, "server", even though bittorrent has no concept of a server.

On the server machine, select New Torrent from the File menu.
Settings:

Select the file or parent directory you want to share
Make sure the tracker list is empty
Select Start Seeding
Select Private torrent

Now, Create and Save As... and give your torrent file a name.
At this point, you need to figure out your server's internet IP address. If you don't know how, try http://whatismyip.com.
With the IP in hand, you need to figure out what port µTorrent has opened in your firewall. You can find this in the preferences or by clicking on the right-most icon in the status bar at the bottom of the main µTorrent window.
Send the torrent file along with the IP and Port (e-mail, instant message, etc.) to your colleague(s).

Each of them should open that torrent file with µTorrent, select the torrent in the list, and select the Peers list. They may have to show the Details Pane from the View menu if not already visible.
Right-click in the Peers list and choose Add Peer....
Enter the server's IP and Port like this:  IP:Port.

The client should now connect to the server and start/resume the transfer.

Note: If the server cannot open a port in the firewall, you could add the client peers to the server's peer list, too.
Use a Windows machine with µTorrent as a tracker

In the Preferences, under Advanced, set bt.enable_tracker to true. Now, create a new torrent as described above, but put http://IP:PORT/announce in the tracker list using the same IP and Port described above. Once this is done, your clients will not need the Add Peer... step. They can simply open the torrent file with µTorrent.

Note: The Windows machine running the µTorrent tracker doesn't have to be the server or the clients. If you have any Windows machine available, you could run µTorrent on it and have it serve as your tracker. (I didn't actually test this, but in theory, it should work.)
Install a simple php web-server tracker

If you already have access to a webserver, the easiest tracker I found to install is BitStorm, a single-file php tracker. Simply place the php file on your server somewhere and then put http://server/path/to/bitstorm.php in your tracker list when creating a new torrent. The clients should only need the torrent file.

Note: If I were going to leave this running for the sharing of private files, I would put it on an HTTPS server with a username and password pair to protect it. Then change the tracker url to https://user:pass@server/path/to/bitstorm.php.
Install an actual compiled tracker program

I found several of these that will compile and run on OSX, but none of them seem to work properly in my testing. My tests may have been complicated by the fact that my tracker and clients all had the same IP address (my external IP). Regardless, I don't think this is the right solution because you shouldn't need to require developer tools to be installed.

Warning: I tried using Vuze, an OSX torrent client with a built-in tracker, but I couldn't get it to work. However, it seems that it installed several plugins into every single browser on my system and changed all of my default search engines. Be careful.


Computer slows when battery is low My Macbook Pro running Mountain Lion slows down dramatically when the battery is below 4-5%. All the applications running are very slow to respond, and several have the "Application not responding" message when I right-click on them in the dock. Now everything works fine when the battery is above 5%, so I'm wondering what goes on when the battery is low that causes the performance drag. Basically, I have two questions:

What is causing this lag (for the sake of curiosity)?
How can I fix it (for the sake of practicality)?

System Info:

Device: Macbook Pro (Spring 2012) 13-Inch running Mountain Lion (10.8)
Memory: 8GB
Processor: 2.8 GHz Intel Core i7
Storage: 500GB SSD Drive with more than half free

See if this link provides you with some useful knowledge. http://smallbusiness.chron.com/change-processor-speed-macbook-pro-43635.html

It's likely that the MBP is automatically scaling the processing power back to conserve battery power, but that isn't necessarily the only cause.


Preview is closed in Mavericks when last window is closed I did the direct jump from Snow Leopard to Mavericks and there is possibility that I have missed some changes in the versions in between. Nonetheless, here is my problem:

When I open a document (e.g. an image) preview shows up and does its job. The problem is when I press the close button in the finder, the Preview is closed completely. In 10.6 Preview would remain open, indicated by little white dot bellow its icon in the dock. How can I keep Preview open and let it close only if I send a cmd+q?

You need to disable Preview's automatic termination.

defaults write com.apple.Preview NSDisableAutomaticTermination -bool TRUE && killall -HUP Finder

This is due to Lion's automatic termination which was introduced so that apps which have no windows open and are not performing a task can be quit to save system resources. Generally it's good to leave on, but if you really want to disable it, use the above command.

You can disable automatic termination in all apps by setting it in the global preferences.

defaults write -g NSDisableAutomaticTermination -bool TRUE && killall -HUP Finder


How to remove/clear the old game data in Game Center? I can't remove the old data in iCloud or even in Game Center. I like to play games like Hay Day and Township. I have already uninstalled the games and chose to remove the data but when I reinstall the same game, my level still is the same and won't become level 1 and start all over.

How can I fix this problem?

iPad mini, iOS 7

If you want to delete your game data/s from the game center, you should simply go to your game center app and choose games option box at the bottom. Then, hold down your desire game that you want to remove and swipe it to the left. A remove button in red should appear after you done. Thanks me later. I hope this could help you a bit.


MacBook Pro 13 inch late 2011 flickering screen I have some problems with the screen of my laptop MacBook Pro 13inch from late 2011. I never had problems with my screen before but suddenly the screen began to flicker. I have encountered that it starts flickering more when my laptop is running more intensive programs whereby it is warmer than usually. When I play with the adjustments of the screen, or tap the screen the flickering comes and goes.

I do not know if it is some wire inside that is half broken so that the connection bad or if my GPU or motherboard is broken. I know that the MacBook Pro's made in 2011 had some problems with the motherboard but this was only the case for the 15 inch laptops. I also made a video to make it more clear. You can see on the video that when I tap on the part where the wires are going from the laptop to the screen, that the screen starts flickering.

Youtube link to video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gjaDSE4eDxg

Thanks

You're graphic card is going to die. It's a known issue - More about that here:  https://www.apple.com/support/macbookpro-videoissues/

Luckily there's a free  MacBook Pro Repair Extension Program until February. You can lookup your MacBook serial number if it's covered by warranty.


Is it possible to have multiple filevault2-activated partitions on one disk? What I would like to have: A disk with the following systems on it:

OS X 10.8 (FV2-encrypted)
OS X 10.9 (FV2-encrypted)
Windows 7

When I try to start FV2-encryption on my secondary partition, OS X tells me that in some configurations FV2 cannot be activated. Do you know if this can be done? How?

Bonus question: The Bootcamp partition is not available in the boot menu after installing 10.9. Is it possible to have multiple OS X + Bootcamp live together on one disk?

It looks like probably not, based on a few search results :(

http://macs.about.com/od/LionTipsNtricks/ss/Filevault-2-Using-Disk-Encryption-With-Os-X-Lion.htm says:

  FileVault 2 [...] only encrypts the startup drive. If you have
  additional drives or partitions, including a Windows partition created
  with Boot Camp, they will remain unencrypted.

This thread, however, is a bit encouraging: https://discussions.apple.com/thread/5644065

On page 2, someone links to https://github.com/jridgewell/unlock which might be useful. That is, you might be able to set up a pre-login step to unlock additional volumes.


NVMe Drives for Macbook Pro's I have been following this thread(Forgive me, I am new here and do not know how to reply to the existing thread):

Do MacBooks support NVMe SSD drives via the use of a Sintech adapter?

I have a MacBook Pro (Retina, Mid 2012) 2.6Ghz Intel Core i7, 16GB DDR3 with the GeForce GT 650M 1GB and it has the Apple SSD SM512E.

I am running macOS High Sierra 10.13.3 and I want to put a Samsung EVO 960 NVMe 2TB in it. Can I do that. All the data in the thread I linked to is 2013 Macbooks or newer.

No - you need a newer Mac to take advantage of the new storage connections and protocols.

This is well covered in the exhaustive post on what hardware has drivers and connections needed for NVMe to operate:

Do MacBooks support NVMe SSD drives via the use of a Sintech adapter?


Image dimensions infos on Lion Finder Columns view Since updating to Lion, none of my image show their dimensions in Finder column view. I tried highlighting a file for a while or opening it with Preview, as suggested by this anser without success. Here is a screenshot to visualize my problem :

How can I see any file dimensions in Finder, like I did with Snow Leopard ?

It looks like this has to do with Spotlight. Finder's knowledge of additional file information is integrated with Spotlight, disabling it, or adding locations to the privacy  list will prevent Finder from reporting file information. This includes image dimensions.

If Finder is not reporting "More Info," make sure that directory is not blacklisted by Spotlight. In the screenshot above, anything found in the "Private" folder will show a "--" under the More Info section. This is by design.


how to transfer song files inside the same iphone i downloaded a song via music free download app and wanted to know how can i move this song from this app to the iphone5 music app where is usually stored our music from Itune ??? please can someone help me

When your iPhone is not jailbreaked it is not possible.

When you have an jailbroken iPhone, it is possible to move files in your iPhone with iFile. The music in iTunes on your iPhone is stored within several maps so I do not know if it works when simple moving the music files.


Searching forward through bash history You can hit ctrl-r from the command line to initiate a search for a previously issued command. You can then hit ctrl-r to cycle back through the older commands that match the search string.

However, there doesn't seem to be a way to cycle forward through the commands after you've cycled backwards. ctrl-s is supposed to do this but it doesn't work for me. I've search google but have come up empty on finding an alternative.

I think you may like Rob's Terminal History Management. You get matches, then the up and down arrow keys let you browse. Almost forgot, the file you want to edit is now ".bash_profile". Open your home folder and press ⇧⌘. to see it.


Internal SSD compatible? Since I was not able to find it out does anyone of you know if the following INTERNAL SSD will be compatible with my MacMini Late 2012 (the cheaper one)?

Internal SSD from BestBuy

Thanks :)

This SSD looks like it should work fine with a Mac Mini that has a SATA connection (which your Mac Mini does). It also claims to be compatible with Mac OS X.


SystemUIServer and other processes crash repeatedly on login I don't know what I did wrong (it could have been related to rebuilding the Launch Services database), but yesterday after I restarted, multiple processes (like SystemUIServer, NotificationCenter, Alfred, and TextEdit) kept crashing on launch or repeatedly. The Notification Center icon and other icons on the right side of the menu bar kept disappearing. I couldn't make Time Machine backups either. When I tried making another account, it had the same issues, and text in the UI was shown as characters from the LastResort font.

system.log contained repeating messages like this:

Feb 23 17:29:59 Lauris-iMac com.apple.launchd.peruser.501[131] (com.apple.mdworker.shared.04000000-0000-0000-0000-000000000000[1545]): Job appears to have crashed: Segmentation fault: 11
Feb 23 17:30:09 Lauris-iMac.local SystemUIServer[1543]: *** Assertion failure in -[MDFileTypeImageCache setImage:forKey:timeToLive:], /SourceCache/SpotlightUI/Spotlight-707.3/menu/Application/MDImageMemoryCache.m:268
Feb 23 17:30:09 Lauris-iMac.local SystemUIServer[1543]: image should not be nil
Feb 23 17:30:20 Lauris-iMac.local NotificationCenter[1567]: registering /System/Library/Fonts/*, /System/Library/Fonts/Base/*, and /Library/Fonts/* locally
Feb 23 17:30:21 Lauris-iMac com.apple.launchd.peruser.501[131] (com.apple.notificationcenterui.agent[1567]): Job appears to have crashed: Segmentation fault: 11

I tried deleting {~,}/Library/Caches/ and /var/folders/, repairing permissions from the recovery partition, starting up in safe mode, and running sudo atsutil databases -remove and sudo mdutil -E /. I think I solved it by just reinstalling OS X, but in case it happens again, does anyone have better suggestions?

So I ended up just starting up from the recovery partition and reinstalling OS X.

The Reinstall Mac OS X option is like upgrading from 10.7 to 10.8: it could just as well be called something like repair OS X. I only had to reinstall Java, replace Apache configuration files, and so on.


Is there a way to get the TV sound being played on a MacBook Pro via HDMI? I have an LG HDTV and a 2019 MacBook Pro with a thunderbolt to HDMI adapter. What i would like to do is to watch tv normally but playing the tv's sound on the Mac's speakers. Is this possible? Does someone knows a way of doing this?
Thank you very much in advance

No.  This cannot be done.
Your MacBook doesn't have HDMI ports; they are Thunderbolt 3 ports meaning the display signal you're getting from it is DisplayPort.  So, they will not support ARC* (HDMI technology) as mentioned in the comments.  Secondly, the DisplayPort signal is one way; it's video out.
The Mac isn't designed to be an monitor with audio/video capabilities; it's not an HDMI endpoint device, it's the source.  This would be like asking your TV to send audio or video to your XBox or DVD player.
Now, this doesn't mean you can't input sound into your Mac; obviously it can because it has a line input port.  What you need to do is extract the audio channel from the HDMI with an HDMI Audio De-Embedder/Extractor then take the audio via a 3.5mm cable and input it into the Mac. You can then use a product like Audio Hijack or Soundflower to route the audio from the Line-In to the speakers.
While this is obviously possible, sending this into a computer will inherently introduce a audio delay as it has to be processed by the Mac.  Remember, your Mac isn't an amplifier where the audio is simply boosted, it's being processed.  Even a 1/4 second delay will be very noticeable and quite distracting.  Since you can't introduce a video delay on your LG, there will be no way to overcome this.
Bottom line...
Buy a cheap set of speakers or a soundbar for the TV.  A lot of the Bluetooth speakers have a AUX input and the LG TVs have a 3.5mm output.  If not, you can always get the HDMI audio extractor.

* Audio Return Channel. Wikipedia:  HDMI Ethernet and Audio Return Channel.


I've found an icloud locked iPhone, how can I return it to the owner? A friend of mine found an iPhone 6 in a festival but she didn't have a way to charge the phone for a couple weeks. She is a maid here in Brazil and didn't have the proper charger neither knew how to use the phone. When she finally gave the phone to me to charge and try to find the owner, I've found out that the phone had an iCloud activation lock.

We took the phone to the carrier but they said that the sim card was deactivated already and belongs to a corporate account with more than 100 numbers associated.

Is there a way for me to contact the owner via Find My iPhone or iCloud? If I wipe the phone, start over and try to activate will that notify the owner via Find My iPhone? If that happens maybe I could just put another valid sim card and wait for the person to text me via iCloud and I can text him back to see how I can return.

I don't want to take it to the police because I'm pretty sure they will just sell the parts (the Brazilian police are super corrupt) and I really want to return this phone because I lost mine already in the past and I was very glad that the person who found returned it to me.

If the SIM card is deactivated, replace the SIM card with one that is functional and will provide the device with a data connection. This will allow the phone to communicate its location to Find My iPhone which the original owner can use to locate the device.

You can't restore a device with an active Activation Lock (except DFU and that just puts it back in Activation Lock), so “wiping the phone” isn't a possible avenue.


exFat Hard Drive not showing up on mac OS X 10.7.5 I formatted a 1TB Seagate USB 3.0 hard drive as ExFat to be used on both a MacBook and a Windows PC. The formatting was done on Windows and there isn't any issue when I access it through Windows. I have tried the hard drive on 2 MacBooks so far and it doesn't come up on either one of them when I plug it in. The MacBooks are running OS X 10.7.5.

I was under the impression that OS X was capable of operating with exFat. You'll have to excuse my ignorance to this as I mainly work with Windows or Linux.

Any help would be appreciated and if there is a work around to this problem it would be much appreciated.

I haven't tried this myself as I haven't had this similar problem, but I read that it is the cluster size that you select during formatting which is the issue. If you plan to use with Mac, format the drive using a cluster size not more than 1024.
The problems I have are kind of different with exFat and mostly when the drive is not ejected properly under mac, everytime this happens i have to do a verify/recover step which takes quite a lot of time as mine is also a 1TB drive.


iMessage group members visibility I'm curious how the group visibility works with iMessage.

I have a hunch that when sending with iMessage to a group of people, all these people will see each other in the group. Is my assumption correct?

However, if one of these people is not using iMessage then the message will be sent as a regular text message and the group members will not see each other in the group. Correct assumption?

TL;DR
(1) Yes and (2) yes (but can be no depending on configuration).

If all the recipients are on iMessage, then it will be an entirely group thing. Everyone sees everyone, and everyone gets all replies.
If you have Group Messaging disabled under Settings.app > Messages > Group Messaging, then they will send as individual text - replies will be separate. If the carrier you are with doesn't provide group messaging there will be no option for Group Messaging. It is disabled by default.

Now, with the assumption that iMessage is on on your phone:

If you have Group Messaging disabled (or your carrier doesn't support it), then when you compose a text to two recipients (at least one off of iMessage) a thread, on your phone, called "OutGoing" will be created. It will then send out separate SMS messages to each user. Recipients won't be able to see who else you texted.

If you have Group Messaging enabled (note: MMS Messaging must be enabled for you to even see the "Group Messaging" option), and compose a text to two persons (at least one off of iMessage), then it will send a group text. Just like iMessage, everyone sees everyone, and everyone gets all replies. Again, the Group Messaging option will only be available if your carrier is compatible with the option. I believe AT&T and Verizon support Group Messaging. They may be the only ones.

Obviously, if everyone is on iMessage, like I stated above, everyone sees everyone, and everyone gets all replies.


Factory reset halfway through filevault decryption? I am selling my MacBook Pro and was reading through what to do before factory resetting the Mac. One of the recommended steps was turning off FileVault, but now I want to reset the hard drive and reinstall the OS and I'm stuck waiting for FileVault to do it's thing. I'm not sure how long FileVault will take but I don't want to keep the purchaser waiting and he's coming by in about 18 hours.

Can I erase the drive halfway through the FileVault decryption process without it causing problems for the Mac? I'd imagine that if I'm erasing the drive the FileVault status won't matter too much but I'd like to be certain.

The secure way to do it is to simply erase the dive, don't decrypt it first. That makes recovery of your data impossible - whereas if you decrypt it, there is a possibility it can be read later by a bad actor.

See Apple KB - What to do before you sell or give away your Mac


How to disable or change an application's shortcut? I have an app (Skitch) that has a seemingly unchangable shortcut of command-shift-5 for capturing the screen. I'd like to disable this or, at least, change it to another shortcut.
Previously I could go to System Preferences > Keyboard > Shortcuts > App Shortcuts and add an app with its accompanying shortcut there. For example, I tried to change it to the following:

Unfortunately in this instance command-shift-5 retains its function whenever the app is open and in the background in Catalina.
Skitch appears to capture this keyboard setting even when the key binding is disabled for the normal macOS keybinding for "Screenshot and recording options":

Is there a way to stop Skitch from receiving this shortcut and/or assigning it another shortcut that works?

shift-command-5 is a macOS keyboard shortcut, not any particular application like Skitch.
Change or disable it in System Preferences → Keyboard → Shortcuts → Screenshots.


Bootcamp: Windows can't install This evening I decided to Boot Camp my laptop. I had done it before, a few years ago, but quite recently my laptop got an SSD instead of it's former hard drive, so I had to Boot Camp it again. Since it's been such a long time since the last time - almost four years - I don't really remember how I tackled problems with it back then.

So far so great. Everything seemed to be going smoothly at first; I did what Apple's guide told me, and it worked.
My mac restarted, I selected the partition it had to use, formatted it, the installation seemed to take off, but then I ran into a problem.
I got an error that the process couldn't continue, due to a software or hardware change (it was in Dutch, so this would be a rough translation, not a literal quote) and it recommended I insert the windows installation disk and restart. But I can't. I inserted said disc, but nothing really happened.
Pressing escape didn't do anything and enter did not restart, but instead lead to the next screen that only gave me the options of starting windows normally, in safe mode, etc.
I tried safe mode, but as Windows at this point wasn't actually installed yet, that caused things to circle back to the previous screen, the one with the first error. And from there I was completely stuck.

So, after having tried all that made sense without any response from the laptop, I held the power button until it went out. Restarting however, resulted in exactly the same situation. Power button. Rinse, repeat.
I then went back to the OSX partition, which thankfully hadn't suffered from all this in any way, but I still have not been able to solve the problem, nor find a solution online (I'm probably wording my problem the wrong way, but I don't know how else to phrase it) so now here I am, mildly desperate.

Does anybody know how I would go about solving this? Or is there more information needed? If it's necessary, I could try taking a picture of the error screen (screenshots aren't exactly going to work at this point :')  ) but it is entirely in Dutch.

With the Windows disk in, restart your Mac and as soon as you hear the startup chime hold down the option key and keep holding it down until you get a list of disks/partitions to boot from.

Pick the Windows disk to boot off of it, then you should be able to point the Windows setup at the partition you created for Windows (be careful you don't over-write your Mac partition!) and install Windows.


GPT looks valid. Diskutil sees empty disk External 3 TB disk.

Stopped working after a power bump.

GPT reports as follows:

bash-3.2# gpt show /dev/disk6
       start        size  index  contents
           0           1         PMBR
           1           1         Pri GPT header
           2          32         Pri GPT table
          34           6
          40      409600      1  GPT part - C12A7328-F81F-11D2-BA4B-00A0C93EC93B
      409640  2930266584      2  GPT part - 48465300-0000-11AA-AA11-00306543ECAC
  2930676224      262144
  2930938368  2929332616      3  GPT part - 48465300-0000-11AA-AA11-00306543ECAC
  5860270984      262151
  5860533135          32         Sec GPT table
  5860533167           1         Sec GPT header

This looks normal.

bash-3.2# diskutil repairDisk /dev/disk6
Nonexistent, unknown, or damaged partition map scheme
If you are sure this disk contains a (damaged) APM, MBR, or GPT partition map,
you can hereby try to repair it enough to be recognized as a map; another
"diskutil repairDisk /dev/disk6" might then be necessary for further repairs
Proceed? (y/N) y
Partition map repair complete; you might now want to repeat the
verifyDisk or repairDisk verbs to perform further checks and repairs

Repeating this makes no change.

DiskUtil reports as follows:

bash-3.2# diskutil list /dev/disk6 /dev/disk6    #:
TYPE NAME                    SIZE       IDENTIFIER    0:    *3.0 TB     disk6

I figured that it might be a bad PMBR.  From all accounts, this is just an MBR with a non-bootable partition in it.  I created an HFS disk on a USB stick, and copied the MBR (dd if=/dev/disk7 count=1 of=/dev/disk6) to the ailing disk.

I used R-Studio to scan the disk.  R-Studio finds files and directories and such.

Ran TestDisk (separate command line disk utility) It's numbers agreed with GPT's.

I then used dd to make a backup of the first 34 blocks of the disk, and used gpt to destroy and recreate the partition table.

  604  gpt destroy /dev/disk6
  605  gpt create /dev/disk6
  606  gpt show /dev/disk6
  ...
  610  gpt add -b 40 -s 409600 -i 1 -t efi /dev/disk6
  611  gpt add -b 409640 -s 2930266584 -i 2 -t hfs /dev/disk6
  612  gpt add -b 2930938368  -s 2929332616 -i 3 -t hfs /dev/disk6
  613  gpt show /dev/disk6

No joy.  I'm missing something here.

The problem turned out to be the PMBR.  My first attempt was to copy sector 0 off a GPT formatted memory stick.

Examined that with fdisk and it had partition of type EE, but start and end cylinders were the same.

I edited partition 1 and accepted defaults.

fdisk on mac will report "can't get exclusive access to write sector back, reboot required"  It lies.  You don't have to reboot.

After doing this diskutil was able to see both partitions.

I was unable to repair the first partition, used for time machine, and ended up reformatting it. (Even after it was a recognizable partition, diskutil would start on it, and give up in a few seconds.)  (I didn't try very hard.  The really important stuff is stored on drop box, on a mirrored disk on another machine.)

@Klanomath deserves credit for GPT disk.  I had found this, but missed the fact that it provided Mac binaries.  I'm not used to binaries on Source forge.  GPT disk appears to be a useful tool for dealing with this sort of situation. It would have been a better way to go.


MBP 13” 2020 won’t turn on after 11.3 Beta 3 Update I left my laptop downloading the update because it was taking sometime. After an hour, I saw my laptop’s screen was black. So I tried powering it up, but nothing happened. My laptop was not drained, because I left it with the power cable attached to it. My MBP is showing no signs of life. I have done all the things apple support was asking me to do. SMC Reset, Recovery mode, discharging everything, but there was really no response from the power button. Has anyone experienced this? And did you manage to fix it? This is so frustrating. I just wanted to update my laptop.
PS. I tried holding the power button for at least thirty seconds, and the keyboard starts to light up a little bit. But if I dont press anything for a continuous time, it dies again.

A few things I would suggest trying.
Since you were installing a new update that is in BETA (11.3 Big Sur) this runs the risk in many factors but nothing to fear...yet.
Let's try a few things first before seeing if your T2 Chip got a corrupted Firmware patch.
You mentioned your MBP is turning on but no screen is coming up.  I would suggest unplugging your MBP first.
Another suggestion is to see if you can spend some money on an external USB C tester here -> USB C Tester to see what Voltage and Amps you are getting.  When plugged in with a USB C tester a MBP 13" 2020 will give you 20.0 Volts and Amps around 0.4 and climbing to a steady 1.09 and above.  This means the computer is turning on etc.  With the tester you can verify if the computer is boot looping.  What this means it is MOST certain it is a Firmware patch issue, WHICH can be resolved with DFU mode.
Now in order to do DFU mode you will need another MacBook that has a USB C connection that has the same OS as the one you currently tried to install on your computer.  BIG SUR.  I suggest using any MacBook Pro from 2016 and above.  You will also need to install Apple Configurator 2 from the App Store on the Host computer.
There is a YouTube guide on how to do all this. But keep in mind you WILL need a MacBook with a USB C port.  Here is a link to the DFU guide for your MBP.
I am certain you corrupted your firmware and you need to repair it.  (Apple will say it is a logic board issue, which it is but it is something that can be repaired with DFU mode and no need to pay Apple for it.)
Here is the YouTube Video how to setup DFU
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UaVgBP4gJsU
Here is the source to learn more about how to repair in DFU step by step:
https://mrmacintosh.com/how-to-restore-bridgeos-on-a-t2-mac-how-to-put-a-mac-into-dfu-mode/


After Lion installation, Safari occasional unresponsive, won't take input Since installing Lion, I've had Safari 5.1 become unresponsive to input several times on two different machines (both iMacs, in different locations).

I don't see anything in the forums I quickly checked. Any ideas?

(Safari becomes responsive again after quitting and restarting. Input device -- mouse, trackpad -- makes no difference.)

Try completely clearing out Safari of junk.

First, empty the cache by hitting Safari > Empty Cache....

Click Empty.

Then completely reset Safari by hitting Safari > Reset Safari.

Check all the checks and hit Reset.

Then quit and relaunch Safari. That should speed things up.

If not, you can always use another browser. ^cough^Chrome^cough^


How to create third partition after Macintosh HD and Boot Camp partitions? I have a mid 2009 MBP. I am going to install Boot Camp beside Snow Leopard.
I would like to have a third partition, DATA, and format it FAT32, where I will keep my data files easily and safely accessible by both Snow Leopard and Win7 on boot camp partition.

Does anyone knows the easiest procedure that I should follow to create this third partition? should I create it before/while/after installing Boot Camp?

Thanks

Solution 1:

Shrink the Mac partition.
Create TWO partitions in the remaining space.
Set up windows in one.
Set up data in the other.

While I have not run the windows 7/8 installs, the older versions would present an interface to use an existing partition if present.  If not present, it would default to using the entire remainder of the disk, but this could be over-ridden.  So you may have an option in an ordinary install to not use the entire remainder of the disk.

Solution 2:

Use an external drive as your Data drive.  Using a cloud drive such as DropBox, or Google Drive is also a possibility.

Opinion warning:
I'm not a fan of multi-boot.  The stuff you need to do is always in the OS that isn't running.  Many sad tales of installation processes that were unkind to foreign OSs.  Now that both Parallels and Virtual Box have reasonable performance, I consider that for most uses, a virtual machine is a better solution.

So...

Solution 3.

Run windows in a virtual machine, and either export a file system via Samba (SMB) or by the virtual environment's file sharing system.  This alternative can be expanded to allow DOS VMs Linux VMs, Solaris VMs.  Note that screen handling can be kludgy for any OS that doesn't have the appropriate extensions.

Solution 4.

Run Windows on a separate box and connect to it via Remote Desktop.  Again, clunky.  But I know guys who use their iPad this way to connect to their windows box at work.  Not sure how much serious work they get done this way, but fetching the power point presentation they left at work may be sufficient.

Solution 5.

Run windows on a machine next to your Mac so that you can spin your chair.

Bootcamp makes the most sense if you actually need to use the same hardware at maximum performance.  But unless you are needing access to massive amounts of data from both OSs an external hard drive or even an 8 Gb thumb drive is likely addequate.

If performance isn't as critical, then running in a VM gives you access to both environments, and the additional security of having a mac beteen your windows box and the cruel world.  (Yes macs can be pawned, but it now means that an attacker has to get through 2 OSs defences.)

The Remote Desktop solutions require a reasonably high speed data link.

The 2nd computer solution is less than ideal for portability.

Hope this helps.


Adding a Google account for calendar purposes on iOS 8.3 I'm trying to add a Google account for use with the native calendar app on a new iPhone with iOS 8.3.  This Google account does not have Gmail set up for it, but I am using it for Google calendar.

With another iPhone running 8.1.3, I can go to "Settings", "Mail, Contacts, Calendars", and "Add Account."  I select "Google" and see a screen like this:

I can enter my Google account information and hit next.  I get an error that says that e-mail won't work:

But I can hit Save anyway, and on the next feature select screen, I can turn off Mail and leave on Calendars.  At this point, I can use my Google calendars in the iOS Calendar app.

With the new phone on iOS 8.3, here is what the new Google Add Account screen looks like, apparently showing a webpage from Google:

Next, I get an "Accept" screen like this:

After clicking "Accept", I am taken to the feature select screen for the account; however, everything is grayed out:

After a few seconds, it times out and sends me back to the first Add Account screen, failing to add the account, but giving no error message.

Is this a bug in iOS 8.3?  Is there a different way I need to add this no-Gmail Google account to the Calendar app?

Have you tried the following on your iOS device:

Add Account > Other > Add CalDAV Calendar

Then enter your credentials:

Server: google.com
Username: Enter the email address of the associated Google account.
Password: Enter the password that is associated with the Google account from above.
Description: Purely for information. Enter a description of the account.

This should work when only using the Calendar on a Google Account.


How to fix message spam from usbmuxd in console (_SendDetachNotification/_SendAttachNotification) My console is flooded with messages like these:

11.01.12 21:21:39,819 com.apple.usbmuxd: _SendDetachNotification (thread 0x7fff7f6cb960): sending detach for device d0:23:db:3e:0b:82@fe80::d223:dbff:fe3e:b82._apple-mobdev._tcp.local.: _BrowseReplyReceivedCallback got bonjour removal.
11.01.12 21:21:46,596 com.apple.usbmuxd: _SendAttachNotification (thread 0x7fff7f6cb960): sending attach for device d0:23:db:3e:0b:82@fe80::d223:dbff:fe3e:b82._apple-mobdev._tcp.local.: _GetAddrInfoReplyReceivedCallback matched.
11.01.12 21:21:46,729 usbmuxd: _AMDeviceConnectByAddressAndPort (thread 0x100781000): IPv4

They always happen in this combination of three messages and around every 10-30seconds

Any suggestions where this is coming from and how to fix/disable it?

Edit: (additional Infos)
Ok it seems to be originating from my iPhone (MAC d0:23:db:3e:0b:82)...

There are no Wifi-Printers or anything like that in the Network.
And the Messages are still there when all USB Devices are disconnected.

Edit2:
This seems to be coming from iPhone Wifi-Sync, is there any way to get rid of this spam without diabling Wifi-Sync for the phone?

Open Console and highlight the usbmuxd spam, then click [ignore sender] in the toolbar:

To re-enable usbmuxd spam, click the [^] symbol in the lower bottom left corner then (x):

This will allow you to safely ignore any Console spam you would like without actually disabling anything other than the message that you see in Console.


What are the dimensions of the Mac Book Air 13" screen? Every spec I've seen shows the diagonal measurement of 13.3". I'm interested in the actual width and height of the screen.

Thanks!

To calculate the screen dimension given the diagonal measurement and the resolution:

The 13.3" MacBook has a 1400 x 900 resolution. Assuming square pixel this gives us

which we can solve for x

The resulting value of x needs to be multiplied with 1400 and 900 to give the screen dimensions, in this case 11.2" x 7.2".


Self assigned IP address I've done a clean install of OS X El Capitan recently, and everything worked fine.

But as I came home, I couldn't connect to Wi-Fi. It states that it has a self-assigned IP address and will not connect to the Internet.

I've been on many forums, and found no solution. Wi-Fi normally worked before the clean install and it still works on my side system, Kali Linux, which I'm writing from right now.

I've tried to get OS X forget the Wi-Fi and then input the password again, but nothing changed. I've tried to enter a valid IP that I know it's working (I got to it through an app which remembered my computer on the Wi-Fi back when it worked), but still no Internet for me.

The Wi-Fi has WEP encryption and I'm not able to access the router to change any settings, because the owner (which is not me) refuses to let me do some adjustments.

A self assigned IP address suggests that your system did not receive an IP address from a DHCP or similar protocol.  As Otto Andy Heiskanen mentions, restarting the DHCP server (by rebooting the router) can solve this issue often.  However you mention your Linux environment does get an IP address, which could point at a different cause.  You also mention that you are not allowed to access the router's settings: are you able to physically access it to pull the power plug?

If you can't access it physically, I recommend you compare the settings in the Linux environment with the settings in OS X.  Is the Linux environment getting an assigned IP address, or is it a fixed IP address?  Perhaps your linux environment is using a MAC address that is different from your physical MAC address?  Maybe there is some newly configured MAC address filtering enabled on the router?


What's a good graphics card for Yosemite on a Mac Pro 1,1? I'd like to upgrade my Mac Pro 1,1 (using the EFI workaround hack) to run Yosemite so all my Macs are running the same version of OS X.

This old box is only used as an HTPC, so smooth 1080P video playback and good UI response is all I need -- I don't game or do anything serious on it.

Can anyone recommend an inexpensive card? Or barring a specific card, anything I should avoid or look for in a card so it plays nice with Yosemite?

I'm currently running 10.7.5, so ideally I'd like a card that has no trouble with that version as well.

I'm leaning toward an XFX HD 6670 (link below), since I hear it works OOTB on these boxes with Lion, but I have no information about whether it works well with the final version of Yosemite.

http://www.amazon.com/XFX-650MHz-PCI-Express-Graphics-HD667XCLF3/dp/B00AHV7NNE/ref=cm_cd_ql_qh_dp_t

I ended up going with the aforementioned card (the "XFX HD 6670 650MHz 2GB DDR3/HDMI/DVI/VGA PCI-Express Graphics Card HD667XCLF3") and it worked brilliantly in both Lion and Yosemite.

I've only been using the DVI output, not HDMI, so I can't say anything for sure about the HDMI output.


What, if anything, has changed regarding retrieving an older version of an iOS app from a local backup? In the past, I know that there was a procedure that allowed one to delete an iOS application from an iPhone and then restore on that iPhone the version of the application that is stored on a backup.  This is quite handy when you've upgraded to a new version of an iOS app only to find it behaves worse than the version you already were using before the upgrade.
I have made use of this, so I know that it was possible at least at one time.
Clarifications about how this is not certain other questions:
No, I am not asking whether one can get older versions of an app from the App Store.
No, I am not asking about restoring just the associated data for a single application.  (And if one can only get the stored version of the application without stored data, then I'd be welcome at least that much.)
No, I don't want to reset all the applications and data or go back to the entirety of a backup.
Yes I do want to get back the earlier/older version of a particular iOS app that has been on my phone.  I do remember that the process started with deleting the new version of the app off the iPhone.  The result is that the app is Not on My iPhone.  Then the process went on to restore that app from the local backup.
I'm running Big Sur 11.1 on a MacBook Pro with an iPhone 7 running iOS 14.2. The last backup is stored on the MacBook Pro (not on iCloud).
If this is no longer possible with Big Sur, then (as in the Title) my question becomes "What changed and when did it change so that it became no longer possible?"  Since I've done it before, I know that it used to be possible.
Thanks in advance!

iTunes 12.6.5.3 was the last version that had the ability to download apps.
On September 12, 2018 Apple released iTunes 12.7.0.166 which removed the built-in App Store browser and thus the supported ability to store downloaded copies of apps on the machine that iTunes is running on.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_of_iTunes
See also the article (and comments for) Apple Releases iTunes 12.7 With Major Changes, Including No Built-In App Store
If you want to do this today, you need to archive the older version of said app BEFORE you want to restore it. You can do this with a tool like iMazing, that allows you to maintain a local library of apps that are installed on an iOS device.
Caveat: You must download the app to the local library while it is still available from the MAS. There is no way to retrieve it from the iOS device.


Force an App to Open Full Screen in a Specific Desktop Space I'm running Mavericks OS X 10.9

As the title suggests I would like to force an app to open in full screen in a specific desktop space.

I can get an app to always open full screen, then position the app in the desired desktop space.

However, when I close the app and reopen, it will always open as the right most desktop space.

Any one have any ideas as to how I may address this?

Go to System Preferences, Mission Control, and untick "Automatically rearrange Spaces based on most recent use"

This has worked for me for the last 10 minutes


WiFi rejection problem after Mavericks upgrade I recently upgraded MacBook Pro (Retina, 13-inch, Early 2013) operating system from Mountain Lion to Mavericks. Since then several WiFi networks are rejecting my password (rejecting wrong passwords immediately, and giving timeout for correct ones) or even not showing up in the WiFi list. In the meantime, some other networks are OK.

Is there a post-upgrade task to clean up or reset the Wireless configuration or drivers?

What I've tried:

Removing saved wifi records from Network preferences - Advanced
Removing wifi passwords from Keychain Assistant
Removing Wi-Fi profile from network preferences and recreating it
Changing the Service Order with Wi-Fi to top (under the gear next to +/-)
Unfortunately I often have no access to routers to reboot or change channels

My new MacBook Air was effected by this problem (but the old white MacBook was not).  Here's what I did 2 days ago in System Preferences in this order: renew DHCP Lease, uncheck Keychain in iCloud, and then restart the computer.  So far so good.


How can I change colors for the minimise / close / maximise controls in the titlebar on macOS? Is there any way to change the  colors? I have already disabled SIP and downloaded ThemeEngine, but it doesn't want to save my changes anyway. It says that I don't have enough permissions, even after chmod 777 command for SystemAppearance file.

I am running macOS Mojave.

Make backup for safety

DISABLE " SIP " from recovery mode How do I disable System Integrity Protection (SIP) AKA "rootless" on macOs [OS X] and reboot to do rest of the steps, while SIP is disabled.
Download this app (latest release) https://github.com/alexzielenski/ThemeEngine/releases
Then follow this path      (/System/Library/CoreServices/SystemAppearance.bundle/Contents/Resources/).
Just open Finder and in the top menu choose Go > Go to Folder and insert the path.
Now there are many .car files. You need to choose one of these (depending what you trying to edit.

SystemAppearance.car (It stands for any color scheme [blue, purple, pink, red, orange, yellow, green] EXCEPT GREY scheme.
GraphiteAppearance.car (Only for grey scheme)
GraphiteDarkAppearance.car (For grey + dark theme)

Copy-paste chosen file 2 times, on different locations. First for modding and second for safety.
Open the file for modification (using ThemeEngine) and scroll down. Find the "Folder" with the circles. Use the filter "Scale" in the bottom of application.
Use 1x icons for not-retina displays and 2x for retina. You can modify only "regular" circles, because you won't see small size circles probably anywhere.
Copy the pictures (drag it from app to desktop) you want to modify in the separate folders. You need this, because they will rename as they get together.
Open copies in any photo editor (I used Photoshop) and paint them as u wish. But don't forget to check the size. They mustn't be too big compare to the original, because they won't fit in some apps.
Once you finished - drag and drop modified files to their place. For example: Modified close button > Original close button. Replace all of the regular size pictures with your's.
Quit the app after saving your preset. Copy this modified file one more time for safety.
Drag and drop it in the original folder where you took it. Confirm all of the suggestions and REPLACE the original.
Reboot into recovery mode and turn on SIP using csrutil enable.

Well done! You did it! Congratulations!

If you have any problems with step 11 - you probably haven't disabled SIP.

Original files and my preset (white buttons, black symbols):
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1SewDd32Pwll_O4iZvomL0y8xtBwz17Py?usp=sharing


How do I get rid of "phantom user" after migration? I got a new Macbook so I used Migration Assistant to move all my content from the old Mac... my only used on the old mac was called 'user' and that is the only user I wanted to move to my new Mac.

Halfway through the migration, however, the connection ended, so I just decided I would start it over again. However the 2nd time I did not have the option to overwrite the half-baked 'user' account. Hmm. So I just asked it to bring over 'user' as 'user2' on the new machine... then I figured when it finished, I would delete the original 'user' folder and account, rename user2 to user and be done.

So it is done. But now on my new Mac, I have 2 users in Users & Groups:

user
user2

BUT only one user folder, /user, which appears to have all the content from the /user folder on the old Mac (i.e. it seems to have brought over everything okay there). No sign of a /user2 folder at all. Odd.

I guess it sort of figured out that the first user was already set up and just used it, which is fine. I want to delete user2 from Users & Groups but the Mac freezes whenever I try to do that.

How can I delete the "phantom" user user2? I want to keep just 'user' and the main /user folder.

It may seem like a bit of overkill, but I'd erase the new Mac, reinstall it's OS from scratch, then re-import the user again, properly, without interruption.


mdfind piped to automator? I have an Automator app called convert2xlsx.app that takes file inputs and runs the Convert Format of Excel Files action to turn .xls files into .xlsx files. I can call it from the command line for one file like so:

automator -i "some file name.xls" ~/Desktop/convert2xlsx.app

and it works just fine.

I also have a command-line query like this:

mdfind -onlyin . 'kMDItemContentType == com.microsoft.excel.xls'

that finds all .xls files in the working directory and below.

I would really like to marry the two together but I can't seem to get it to work.

My first thought was this:

mdfind -onlyin . 'kMDItemContentType == com.microsoft.excel.xls' | xargs -J {} automator -i "{}" ~/Desktop/convert2xlsx.app

but that only converts the last file in the results returned by mdfind. I also tried:

mdfind -onlyin . 'kMDItemContentType == com.microsoft.excel.xls' -0 | xargs -0 -J {} automator -i "{}" ~/Desktop/convert2xlsx.app

with the same result.

I was able to piece it together in Automator, using an AppleScript action to get the directory of the front Finder window, a Shell Script action to run the mdfind in that directory and then the Convert Format of Excel Files on the result of the mdfind. So, problem solved. Yay! But...

I would really like to know where I was going wrong on the command line, as I'm making an effort to learn Bash scripting and use it more. Any advice?

As a test I created an Automator app that just copies finder items to a directory.  "Copy Finder Items" Action

And then used

theFind=`mdfind -onlyin . 'kMDItemContentType == com.microsoft.excel.xls'`;automator -i "$theFind"  /Users/UserName/Desktop/testF/test2.app

The backpicks  "`"  insure that the first commands result is placed in the variable theFind and then we can pass theFind onto the next command by calling it with "$theFind".  The quotes around it also in sure any text passed on is quoted.

The Automator app is then passed an Alias list.

  {alias "hard drive:Users:Username:Dropbox:Kit:Unit2.xls", alias "hard
  drive:Users:Username:Dropbox:Kit:Unit3.xls"}

So depending on you other actions you may need to convert them to POSIX paths.

  {"/Users/Username/Dropbox/Kit/Unit2.xls", "/Users/Username/Dropbox/Kit/Unit3.xls"}


Get Iphone Data Network Statistics Background story:

I am writing this because my cellular carrier claims (Orange RO) that I have used all my data traffic included in the subscription plan (which is exactly 11,79 GB) and, additionally to that, I have used 1,01 GB, all in 14 days after my billing cycle which is done monthly.

Hell, in this 14 days, half of it I've been in vacation, had the phone all the time on me and had been in places where there isn't even cellular data coverage, therefore, i find very hard to believe that I've used all that traffic.

Anyway, in my iPhone the last time I've reset the cellular data statistics in Settings -> Cellular was on the 10th of April 2014. As a result, it shows me that I have used 68 GB and it gives me how much my apps have used which all seems legit, however, considering my problem it doesn't help me that much.

The question:

The reason I am writing this here is because I want to know if there is any way I can get a more detailed data usage report from my iPhone? If it is, how?

I've got a Macbook Pro and all the developer tools programs installed.

This is not a answer to your question, but some interesting information on what can eat your data plan. (even on standby mode) !

So if you used Google maps (and did not turn it off) on your Vacation, there is a possibility to consume 100 Hours x 22 Mb = 2200 Mb

As for monitoring probably this would suit you.

My Data Manager – Track your mobile data usage and save money

  Description

  My Data Manager is a popular app that will help you take control of
  your mobile data usage and save you money on your monthly phone bill.
  Use My Data Manager every day to track your data usage and ensure that
  you don’t go over your monthly data bill and incur unnecessary
  charges.


Change Limit before Mac Notifies You That The "Startup Disk Is Full"? I always have this problem: Immediately after Mac Notifies You That The "Startup Disk Is Full", it pauses many of the applications I am using (eg. 6 out of 10), and this always makes me lose my unsaved data. How does this mechanism work? Can I change a parameter so that Mac notifies me earlier (e.g. instead of 1GB short of full, mayb 8GB) and/or doesn't pause my applications?

Apparently there isn't a way to configure this. Someone wrote a shell script here to check the disk space and show you an alert message if it's getting full.

If you're familiar with the command line, you can save it somewhere and create a cron job to run it every few hours or so. I tested it and it worked fine.


No way to disable Mission Control gesture? Not sure if this is a bug or not in OS X Lion. By changing default gesture of mission control to use four fingers, which seems to me doesn't work. It doesn't disable it when I uncheck the gesture option either.

I miss the space id icon on taskbar and three fingers left swipe for backwards.

It is possible to disable the gestures in the preferences. Sometimes a reboot is needed if other things are going wrong, but on most macs the change is immediate.


How can you put new songs from a computer to an apple device after you wiped the computer and it counts as a new one? I recently wiped my computer without backing it up because it was overwhelmed by viruses, and I just bought a new CD, which I planned to put on my iPad 2. The only problem is that the computer is now recognized as a new computer, and wants to erase all my non-apple bought content. Is there any way to avoid this?

You can use a product like iExplorer to first copy your music off of the iPad on to the computer.  Then use the copied music to rebuild iTunes and then when the music on the iPad gets wiped it won't matter as it will get replaced with what you copied to the computer and added to iTunes.


iBooks not syncing/uploading to icloud I'm using iBooks 1.7 on macOS Sierra (but have had this issue since iCloud syncing via iBooks has been available). Books added via file > Add To Library are not being synced across my devices.

I have an iPad and an iPhone using the same apple ID all supposedly syncing bookmarks, collections iBooks data etc and yet it's not actually syncing any of them.

The most progress that I can see is a cloud logo in the top right of the books on a (3rd or 4th) restart of iBooks and an uploads arrow listing the newly added books, but there's no option in the UI to start the uploads that are listed.

Has anyone had this trouble? I'm absolutely at a loss and it's a recurring issue.

Thanks SE!

I am an avid user of iBooks, and I hope I can be somewhat helpful. Because I am new to Stack Exchange, I am unable to ask questions/comments on your original post, therefore some of this information may be irrelevant to you.

You mentioned that on your iPad and iPhone, you have the settings set to sync across devices. To clarify, click Settings > iBooks; make sure Sync Bookmarks & Notes and Sync Collections are green. It sounds like you have this already, so then...
Click Settings > Your name at the top > iCloud. Make sure iBooks is still marked green. Make sure iCloud Drive is also green.
On your Mac, open up iBooks. At the top menu bar, click Store > Authorize this computer.. this should ensure your computer can use anything added from iTunes/iBooks store. Also, click Sign In in the same menu setting (Store). Make sure your Apple ID is signed in.
Click the Apple icon at the top left of your screen and hit System Preferences. Click iCloud. Make sure your account is signed in. make sure iCloud Drive is on, and click settings next to it.
If iBooks was open, quit/force quit it. After it quits, open it. It may prompt you, "do you want to use iCloud sync?" If it does, say yes. Click iBooks > Preferences > General, make sure "sync across all devices is checked."

Your items will have a cloud icon on them. A cloud with a solid lining indicates the book is fully in the cloud and downloadable; a cloud with a dotted lining indicates the item is being uploaded into the cloud.

I believe the issue is with your iCloud Drive. iBooks purchases sync with your Apple ID, and technically other stuff you add does as well, but the other items, from my understanding, actually live in your iCloud Drive. You also may need to update your Mac.. sometimes syncing is weird with older stuff (you said Sierra; not sure if High Sierra or old Sierra). I am not sure this information will be helpful to you.

Also, this might be helpful. I apologize if all of these are things you have already done, but since I am new, I am unable to ask you questions yet. Good luck. I assume I can edit this answer if everything else fails... I do not have my Mac with me at work today, so I can't view my own settings. I can look when I get home if it would be beneficial.


Which MacBook models support (directly or indirectly) dual DVI monitors, for a total of three screens? I've read through the "Questions with similar titles", and I don't see anything that directly answers my question.

Which current MacBook models (of any product line) support (directly or indirectly) attaching dual DVI monitors, for a total of three screens?

The monitors are third-party (Acer). By "directly or indirectly", I'm acknowledging that I'll likely have to buy additional cables.

You only have two options, and they're both supported by all current MacBook Pro and MacBook Air models:

Use a DVI splitter to spread a single DVI output across multiple monitors (which will look like a single external monitor to the OS). The maximum resolution for an external monitor on all MacBook Pro or Air models is 2560 x 1600, so your maximum for the split displays will be 1280 x 1600 each (or maybe 2560 x 800).
Use a USB graphics adaptor for the third monitor, which will thus not have hardware graphic acceleration.


2011 Macbook Air connects to WiFi but can't get Internet This 2011 MBA is updated to High Sierra.  I have tried to connect to 5 different WiFi networks but in all cases, the MBA can connect to local network but no Internet.

All 5 of these networks are professionally configured in hotels.

Running Diagnostics seems to say everything is ok.  Also, at the same time I can connect to the same networks with another Macbook Air (2013, Mojave) and two different iPhones (8 and 6s) with no problems.

If I turn on Personal Hotspot in either of the two iPhones, the 2011 MBA obtains Internet no problem and gives a fast connection.

The 2011 MBA used to work fine on wifi with no problems.  It may be that updating the OS has somehow caused a problem, but I'm not the primary user of the 2011 machine and am not sure if the problem appeared with HS or was there before.

Does anyone have any suggestions to troubleshoot a WiFi connection that doesn't get to the internet?

As you say this only happens with Hotel Networks.

Usually the process with Hotel networks is 2 steps.

1- First you log in to they WiFi

2- Once logged in, the Hotel Server will send you a "Captive Portal" web site, on which you must continue to get Internet access. I assume you do not get t this step (no portal showing)

Your Mac (for your protection) before that popup shows, will check the certificate revocations to verify the popup being shown isn't a fake one.

Fixing it:

Usually there is simple fix to show the Captive Portal by just entering cnn.com in your browser and it will redirect you to the Captive Portal, but not always.

Try with different browser open.

Alternative solution is to create a "new location" in the network system preferences window, name it Hotels if you whish, and remove all DNS servers.

Similar problem and solution described here https://apple.stackexchange.com/a/37851/46541


How to create a custom iPhone ringtone using MacOS 10.15 Catalina? How can I create and upload a custom iPhone ringtone using MacOS 10.15 Catalina?

I have tried to follow the advice given for uploading ringtones applicable to older versions of MacOS, where iTunes was available, substituting the replacement Music program instead, but I don't seem to be able to drag or open the .m4r file that I have created into Music, nor drag it onto my iPhone in the Finder.

Is there still some way to convert other audio files into ringtones and upload them to iPhones when using MacOS 10.15 Catalina?

'Create ringtone' part for Catalina (and older macos versions as well) is pretty simple and straightforward if you are comfortable with terminal.

MacOs comes with built-in afconvert. For example, to convert mp3 file 'mysound.mp3' to ringtone (.m4r file) mysoundringtone.m4r:

afconvert -f m4af -d aac mysound.mp3 mysoundringtone.m4r

Need to be in same directory with source file or pass path along with filename(s).

'Upload part': one can connect iPhone to computer and drag-and-drop ringtone file to iTunes while it's on iPhone 'General' tab. After that locate newly created ringtone on iPhone in Settings > Sounds & Haptics > Ringtone (above built-in ringtones, separated by line).


How does a 4K Retina display 'double up' the pixels? I did the following experiment on a 21.5 retina display:
Open Pages, and write some lines with Courier New at point size 4, 3, 2 and even 1.
Use default screen 2K High Resolution and then set view to Actual Size
Use extreme 4K Resolution and again set view to Actual Size.
The typefaces with 3 and 2 points are readable in both modes, but they seem better in 4K. How is this?
I mean, is not "2K Retina" supposed to present a default resolution of 2K but render objects at 4K? Just to be sure, "2K low resolution" seems to have a worse rendering of the 4, 3 and 2 typefaces. But 4K seems the winner. It is just my bias, or is it a fact that it renders better than 2K?

On older displays, the pixels were sufficiently large that you could see each one on the screen.
Newer displays have smaller pixels, which gives a sharper, less 'blocky' image. Eventually, displays' pixels became so small, and so densely packed that the human eye cannot distinguish individual pixels from a standard distance. (That's why the term 'Retina' is used.)
The problem with such high-density displays is that text is also reduced in size, appearing very small, and difficult to read.
Apple solved this with its 'Retina display' screen rendering. What it does is to take a high-density  (HiDPI) display and magnify everything by a factor of 2. So an image that would have been displayed using 512 x 512 pixels will actually be displayed using 1024 x 1024 pixels. The image stays sharp because the 2x2 square that represents "1 pixel" can actually have different colors in each pixel.
So by pretending the display is half the size, you get 'normal'-sized images and text, but with twice the fine detail. I would recommend using the Default scaling for most purposes. You can of course zoom in and out in Safari, Pages, Preview, etc.


Why does backslash work for file or folder names, but question mark less so? I created a HTML file as this name on Sierra 10.12.6: test\55.html and it showed up in the address bar of Firefox as:
Users/MYNAME/Desktop/test\55.html

I then made a duplicate as test?\55.html and it rendered in the browser as:
Users/MYNAME/Desktop/test%3F\55.html

If naming files, why does backslash seem to work?  I know forward slash (/) doesn't and renders as :: in Finder, but for backslash and question mark, why do these work in Finder and should they be avoided in filenames?
I'm on HFS, not APFS, so does this relate to it, and in Mojave, would the problems around these not exist?
If anyone can answer I'd be grateful for this; done some basic research but am not fully sure.

Characters to avoid in filenames
You shouldn't be using slashes or question marks in your filenames.  This can cause issues depending on the operating system/file system being used.
There's already an excellent answer in SuperUser What characters are safe in cross-platform file names for Linux, Windows and OS-X addressing this, but to summarize:

forward slashes are used to separate values in the path in *nix operating systems
back slashes are used to escape spaces in file names in *nix operating systems and as path separators in Windows.
Windows does not like \/:*?"<>| in paths or filenames.

As for the "double colon" (::) this is a convention used by Finder to represent the home directory.  The single colon is a path separator.
Question Marks (and other characters) in URLs
This is not a good idea. First off, Windows users (the browsers actually) are going to have a hard time with the the file with the question mark.  Secondly, The question mark indicates a query string in PHP meaning, you're sending the PHP language a query or a command to execute.
For instance, take a look at this URL:
https://www.bing.com/search?form=MOZLBR&pc=MOZI&q=php+url+question+mark

Putting an arbitrary question mark in the file name of the URL will definitely throw a monkey in the wrench.
Additionally, you're not "escaping" characters in the URL with the percent sign - it's called "Percent Encoding or URL Encoding."  This allows you to use special or reserved characters (like a space) in the URI and have it be functional.


High kernel_task CPU usage I have a 2019 15" MBP which has had a string of issues, but is passing all hardware tests when serviced at the Genius Bar:
November 2019–March 2020
Mac freezes daily, usually towards the end of the work day (4–5pm), mouse and keyboard are unresponsive, reboot resolves the issue.
March 2020–September 2020
Mac becomes unusable multiple times during the day due to really high kernel_task CPU usage (sometimes more than 4000% when no apps are open). Reboot does not resolve issue, but turning the MacBook upside down in clamshell mode seemed to help (connected to external display). Some tasks such as a Skype call with video are essentially impossible. Resolved by reinstalling the OS without restoring from back up.
Now
Battery depleting at extreme rate, Mac is extremely hot even upon start up and fans almost always running at full speed. Now the icon in the upper right says "service battery", even though the battery has less than 400 battery cycles.
This just seems to me like there is some fundamental core hardware issue at play that Apple is failing to diagnose.
Has anyone experienced similar, or any insight into what is happening here?

High temperature sensors is the only other thing you didn't mention explicitly. Can you correlate this to ambient temperature / inability of the CPU to cool itself (to 80C is cool / even 100C is fine if Kernel Task isn't taking more than one core)?
Barring a clean erase install of the OS fixing this, I would seek repair service.


Disallow some websites from opening new tabs/windows In Safari how can I stop certain websites from being allowed to open new tabs and windows?

On some ad-heavy sites I click anywhere on the page and it spawns two or more new tabs trying to sell me some scam.

Can I stop this from happening?

The best built-in defence for this is Safari Preferences → Security → Block pop-up windows. Other than this, you can use an adblock such as uBlock Origin.


OS X Terminal: 'ls' shows program but then says command not found? I am trying to start MongoDB from the terminal. When I navigate to the folder and hit 'ls', all the applications show up but when I type in the name of the application( 'mongod'), it says it is not found!

Abes-MacBook-Air:bin abe$ ls

bsondump    mongodump   mongoimport mongorestore    mongostat
mongo       mongoexport mongooplog  mongos      mongotop
mongod      mongofiles  mongoperf   mongosniff

Abes-MacBook-Air:bin abe$ mongod

-bash: mongod: command not found

What is going on?

The executable is in your current working directory. Therefore you need to add ./ to your command. So try ./mongod.

See this UNIX StackExchange question for details and background:
Why do we use “./” to execute a file?


⌘T does not open a new tab In Finder under the File menu, the "New Tab" command has ⌘T as a keyboard shortcut. However, when I use those combination of keys, a new tab does not open. I am currently running Yosemite, but this was also the case when I was running Mavericks. Is there a fix or workaround for this?

I noticed mine didn't either under Mavericks 10.9.5.

Open System Preferences -> Keyboard - Shortcuts tab, Select App shortcuts

Click the + button and under Application: select Finder.app,
under Menu Title enter New Tab and under Keyboard Shortcut enter ⌘T.

After that in an open Finder window ⌘T opens a new tab.


How can I get my apps back after deleting all data? I recently had a problem with my MacBook Air. I went to Apple and they said they would fix it but all my data will get deleted. I said okay but when I got my MacBook back, I didn't know my apps would get deleted. Some of they apps were iMovie, Pages and Numbers. They were already installed when I first got the MacBook.

Well, when they say "all your data will get deleted" that means apps too.

You can go to the Mac App Store, click on the Purchases tab, and re-install your apps.


iPad app store country limitations In one iPad, Is it possible to download an app and susbcribe to its content with an apple id linked to one country and then use it while logged with an apple id linked to anohter country?

Yes - in general, you are allowed to mix apps from more than one Apple ID on the same device as long as the other terms of the license agreement are upheld. Technically, there is only the requirement that you first log into the account A and accept the license terms, download the apps that Account A has purchased.

Then you switch to Account B to accept the license terms, download the apps from Account B.

When you have updates, you will have to enter the passwords and switch back and forth to accomplish the updates, so it adds work and time, but isn't something I have seen blocked as a general case.

I can't speak for whether this is legal or might be a violation of the terms of service - I could see instances where if the only reason for this was to bypass restrictions in a country you could get called out or have your accounts terminated if you were not providing true information. As long as everything was legitimate in each account as it stood alone, I see no reason why you couldn't have this situation for some apps on a limited number of devices that you "own or control" according to the iTunes store terms that govern each account respectively.


Are old podcast episodes removed from the iTunes store? Today I realized I sort of abandoned podcasts a while ago, and I went to the iTunes store to look for good ones. Every podcast I looked at, though, only displayed some of the more recent episodes. I want to start at the beginning of these! Here are just a few examples.

Is iTunes deleting old episodes from their store? If so, is there any pattern to it? (WWDTM only has a few months of podcasts, while the Stack Exchange podcast has a few years' worth, yet both are missing the older episodes.)

Regardless of what's causing it, is there anywhere I can find the old episodes?

If the podcast's feed has history archived in the Wayback Machine (which many are), you can use Backfeed1 to generate a feed which includes all current and often2, all historical episodes.

1. disclaimer: I created Backfeed, since I was annoyed at the same problem.
2. limited by what is available in the wayback machine within a sane number of API requests.


Can I change my MAC address to be the same as my old MacBook so it will stop rejecting my iPod? I was wondering if I could change my MAC address to be the same as my old MacBook so it will stop rejecting my iPod or trying to force me to erase it? Or is it better to just generate an entirely new one? Thanks!

Making the name identical will not change acceptance.
You have to deauthorize the ipod from the old MB and then authorize on the new MB  .


Always show directory icon on Finder on Big Sur The default finder window looks like this:
If I click on the folder name (AdventOfCode) twice, first a popup with the path opens, and then the directory icon stays, until I click again or move out of the "label area".

Does anyone know how to avoid the hiding of this icon?

You can revert application toolbars to their 10.x look by setting NSWindowSupportsAutomaticInlineTitle. To set this for Finder, use com.apple.finder as the domain.
Disclaimer (from the comments):

I always wish “killall Finder” had a disclaimer. It’s safer to log out and back in since killing finder can interrupt copies, spoil mounted share and other such items... they are clearly edge cases...

defaults write com.apple.finder NSWindowSupportsAutomaticInlineTitle -bool false
killall Finder

From my answer to a similar more generic question: Revert UI on Big Sur?


Identify Podcasts in Smart Playlist? I'd like to exclude all podcast-type items from a Smart Playlist my iTunes library.  How can I identify podcasts so that I can exclude them from results?

You should be able to use Media Kind is not Podcast to deselect podcasts:

Some podcasts also have their Genre set to Podcast.


Real sleepmode WITHOUT hibernation As the most people, I also googled after setting the hibernatemode, and found the following command:

sudo pmset -a hibernatemode 0

... which should enable the RAM-only sleep mode. I also deleted the sleep image, but the result is not that what I expect.

Hardware config:
Apple Mac mini

Intel i5 (GPU: HD4000)
HDD: 500 GB (5400RPM)
RAM: 4GB

If I put my machine into sleep mode by choosing the Sleep Button after the power button is pressed. It goes into sleep mode in couple of second. OK. If I wake it up, it returns in couple of seconds. Still OK... BUT:

if I let my machine for some hours in sleep mode, it turns into hibernation, which is both unnecessary and slow with a HDD 5400RPM. And because of that if I turn on my machine, it takes about 1-2 minutes to come back.

How to turn out hibernation FULLY? - i really don't need power failure safety feature for a desktop configuration.

Try this:

#power management settings
pmset -g | grep hibernatemode

#remove forcefully
sudo rm -f /var/vm/sleepimage

#0 means normal sleep and is the default for desktops
sudo pmset -a hibernatemode 0

#1 means hibernate mode and is the default for older portables (pre 2005)
sudo pmset hibernatemode 1

#3 means safe sleep and is the default for portables made after 2005
sudo pmset hibernatemode 3

#25 is the same as hibernate mode, but is the setting used for newer (post 2005) Mac portables
sudo pmset hibernatemode 25


iWork Numbers How To Calculate - In Once Cell Function - The Elapsed Time In Hours Between Two Date/Times? Let's say I have two date/times. The start date/time is 29th May 2020 at 20:30 and the end date/time is 30th May at 02:30. This link shows how to calculate using two cell references.

How to calculate in one cell the duration?

Something like DATEDIF but accepting the time and output of result in hours, e.g.:

=MYCLEVERDATETIMEDIFF(“29/5/20 20:30”, “30/5/20 02:30”, "H")

which results in:

6

Six being the elapsed time in hours between the above date/times.

What function, or combination of functions and conversions would do the trick? Note that ideally something that works as one cell function, not calculating the difference between two cell references.

Any ideas?

Assuming I have understood what you wish to accomplish correctly, here is one way of doing it in the same cell if you are willing to enter the dates and the times separately:

And here is the text version of the formula shown above

=(DATEDIF(DATE(2020,5,29),DATE(2020,5,30),"D")+TIMEVALUE("02:30")−TIMEVALUE("20:30"))×24

Unfortunately, this can not be done by entering the date & time together for each point in time (or without entering them more than once). It appears that there is no date & time function in Numbers that calculates the difference between two date & time values in hours directly or one that fully converts a date & time value in text or otherwise to a proper date & time value that Numbers can process.


Transfer SSD from MacBook Pro 2009 to MacBook Pro 2012 I'm upgrading from a MacBook Pro  to a 2012 model. I installed a SSD drive on the 2009 unit. A few days ago, I got the black screen of death due to the logic board failing. I back up every 30 days using Time Machine, but was on day 27 or so, which means I need to capture many work days of files; etc.

How do I swap out the 750GB HDD in the 2012 for the SDD in my 2009 with my 2009 not booting up?

There's a great website for repair guides called: iFixit


How to revert this defaults write command? defaults write com.apple.mail DisableInlineAttachmentViewing -bool yes

It is related to this question:

How can I disable inline attachment previews (i.e. view as icon by default) in Mac Mail in macOS Mojave?

When you’ve written a boolean value, you can choose to write the opposite value, replacing yes with no. Usually, to reset a preference, you delete the preference so the default takes effect, which you can do with defaults delete:

defaults delete com.apple.mail DisableInlineAttachmentViewing