Best config for day time Windows user + occasional Mac usage I bought a 2015 Macbook Pro 15" retina, 16GB memory 1TB SSD. I use Visual studio on day time on windows 8 and work on Mac, open source technologies at night and on weekends. I first thought of using VMWare and load windows for my day time use but i am  a little confused on which config i should do.

I am thinking of using bootcamp since all i do is windows during day time(may be dedicate 250GB ?)
dedicate 500GB for Mac OS .
Dedicate 200 GB for VMware on MacOS to load windows for some rare scenarios where i need to test both windows and mac apps at the same time (like Xamarin)

Is this a bad idea to config my laptop like this or do you guys have any ideas that you can share for this scenario ?

Update:
I just noticed another option of loading bootcamp volume in my Vmware Fusion 7. Can i use this option instead of item 3 for doing multi OS programming ?

Firstly, I would think about how much you want to share between the two. What documents are you going to be messing with on both sides. If it's a significant amount you might want to consider a third partition for documents, and then setup a partition each for the OSs to boot from.

Given the time spent in each you probably want full performance from each OS, which means bootcamp for Windows.

Given the documents requirement above, partition out into Windows, OS X, and the options documents partition, and run each OS directly.

I'd then use the VMWare Bootcamp option as a fall-back in case you want to run something from the Windows side temporarily, but I wouldn't do it full time. Nice option to have though.


Is there away to stream music from iPad to chromecast via AirPlay? Obviously there is not native support for that. But I wonder if there are any hacks to do that. Or if there are not solutions yet is it technically possible, does apple and google expose API which could make this work?

Afaik there is no such possibility to close that gap. I have read about an app to stream your local media from an iOS device (AirCast). It was an early beta and no longer available. Besides Google tries to prohibit such functionality to avoid bringing illegal media to TVs via their devices.


Creating audiobooks from individual tracks I have the following audiobooks in the latest iTunes under Windows 10:

I have imported several audiobooks from Audible into iTunes. Each book appears under "Audiobooks" on my iPod Classic as a single entry.
I have also imported several books purchased elsewhere, as individual MP3 files. I have ensured that the title, author, etc. are identical and have numbered all tracks correctly. I have set the Media Kind to "Audiobooks" and have selected the "part of a compilation" option as well as the "skip when shuffling" and "remember position" options. In iTunes, these books appear correctly, each as one entry, with all the tracks in the correct order.
I have also imported one original CD audiobook (11 disks) and have curated the meta-data as described above. Again, in iTunes, the book appears correctly.

After syncing to my iPod Classic, all the Audiobooks appear, but only the Audible ones appear as a single entry per book. Each track of each of the MP3 books and the CD book appear as individual entries/books. This makes for a very long list, and, of course, makes it very inconvenient to listen to. I would have to scroll to "Chapter 1" of the book I want, listen to it, and then scroll to "Chapter 2" of the same book, etc. "Chapter 1", "Chapter 2", etc. for each book appears in the audiobook list.

I have searched extensively, but have not found a solution. This answer did not solve the problem I describe.

This link suggests using the freeware program called "Chapter and Verse" to merge chapters into an audiobook. The latest version is available for download. Note that:

Chapter and Verse requires that Apple Quicktime
and Windows Media Player be installed to run.

and

Non-AAC files are automatically converted using iTunes.


How willl a Mac Mini's SSD effect the maximum process size when use swap? Reading, possibly out of date info, elsewhere OS X seems to limit the maximum process size according to the total RAM and a fixed proportion of the available disk.

The new 2018 Mac Mini is very tempting, but what will the effect of limiting myself to a 128G or 256G in terms of process size?

I'm currently use Wolfram Mathematica to do so some weighty audio simulation on a 2009 16Gigabyte 2.88Ghz 4 Core Mac Pro with OS X El Capitan installed on a 256G SSD and piles of extra SATA HD. Every so often Wolfram come to a dead stop and quits, which may be a memory issue but I'm not sure.

macOS does not limit the maximum process size (i.e. working set) according to total RAM and a fixed proportion of available disk. This is 100% not the case in any way at all.

You can set arbitrary limits on process size using the "ulimit" command in the Terminal, those are however limits chosen by the user - and thus can be changed as need be.

There are ofcourse actual, "physical" limits of a process size given by the hardware. Contrary to common belief, it is not actually possible for an ordinary 64-bit system to have processes that address 2^64-1 bytes of RAM. On macOS (and Windows other systems) processes are actually limited to 2^48-1 bytes instead. I.e. a given pointer only has 48 bits that are actually significant.

There are paging techniques to counter this, but in practice no ordinary program employs them.

In addition to the physical limits, there are other limits you'll run into. If you have meaningful data in RAM, the system needs somewhere to store it. The total RAM installed on the system as well as the free disk space available for swapping becomes a limit.

Note that this is not a fixed limit in any way. If your RAM contents are compressable (i.e. for example if it contains many repeated bytes), then you'll be able to have extremely large process sizes without problems. Much more than you have physical RAM and swap space.


iphone 4s unable to play tone alerts For some reason, the sounds for ringers, and alerts/notifications on my iPhone appear to not be playing anymore. Even though the ringer volume in settings is turned up almost to the max, the phone still only vibrates when receiving a call. And when the phone is placed onto it's charging dock, instead of BEEP ing like it normally does, it simply vibrates.

Interestingly, when I fiddle with the ringer volume slider in settings, the test ringtone plays just fine, and music audio cannot be played through the built in speaker.

What's going on?
please suggest some solution.

First make sure that the Silent switch is turned on. Check on the left side of the iphone and make sure that the silent switch does not show red.

If it is not in silent mode, change try changing the ringtone and see if it works. If not reset the iphone from settings->general->reset->reset all settings.

If both methods does not work contact an Apple Genius.


Location of error icon Where is the location of the error and the warning icon?
I'm talking about the red octagon with a ! inside it and the yellow triangle also containing a !.

Example: http://www.askdavetaylor.com/1-blog-pics/mac-usb-device-removal-error.png


How to remove Volume slider from Control Center When I swipe my home screen from bottom to top, I see below screen :

However I want to customise this screen like I want to remove the volume icon from this screen.
Is there any way to achieve this.
Thanks for any pointer.

That screen is called the Control Center.
On iOS 14, go to "Settings -> Control Center".
From there, you can add, remove, and rearrange most of the controls that you see on that screen.
Controls such as Volume and Screen Brightness are there by default and can't be removed.  Perhaps if you jailbreak there's something to remove those controls but it's not possible with default iOS.


Calendar cannot be updated on iPhone 6sPlus After iOS 9.3.5 update installed, I lost the ability to add events in my calendar. How can I restore this capability?

Go into Settings then Mail, Contacts, Calendars. Scroll down to Contacts, open Default Account. Select iCloud.
Done.


iPhoto pictures lost, then found - how to save them to hard drive My iPhoto library became corrupted and no longer opened in iPhoto. (No, unfortunately I don't have a backup on Time Machine or other.) I thought the 26,000 photos were lost (since the iPhoto Library Package "shrunk" from 85 GB to 1 GB) but they have been found in a separate "lost+found" folder (it was found in the root directory next to "Applications" and "Library"). My question is about how to start over with iPhoto.

Here is what I've done so far:  I've started copying folder by folder from Finder to an external hard drive, and deleting the "corrupted" images as they are identified.  All the photos are scattered in a complicated hierarchy of folders with the parent folder names being successive years, like this:

2001
 - then under that - 01 (there are 10-15 of these types of folders)
 - then under that - 01 (also 10-15 of these)
 - then under that - 20130101-132905 (there are 50-60 of these types of folders)

This goes on and on through 2014.

Do I need to keep these folders intact?

What I want to do is save all my photos to my hard drive, then wipe my laptop clean and install OSX Mavericks, then re-install iPhoto, re-import all the images, and start over with making events, albums and face recognition.

Back to the folder structure, within the "lost+found" folder there is a duplicate set of folders with the same names, but along with the image files, there are more files with the same name but with "faces01" and such tacked on the end.  What I understand this to be has to do with the facial recognition in iPhoto.  Do I need to keep all of those image files too if I'm willing to just start over??  My reasoning is that since these appear to be just a bunch of files and no longer an iPhoto Library Package, then iPhoto would simply recognize those "face" images as new photos and I don't want that.

In addition, there are some files like iMovie Data, AlbumData, Photo Database, and a folder called Segments.  Do I need to keep those if I'm happy with just starting over?

I would just as soon keep ONLY the images and simply re-import them into iPhoto once I get my laptop running good again, but I thought I'd post on here and get any suggestions or advice before doing so.

If you are fine with starting over with albums and face recognition, don't worry about the folder structure. The metadata on the photos (assuming they are JPEGs) will even give you back a lot of events. (iPhoto makes events automatically using the timestamps).

I think face-recognition and keywords and ratings and all of that is going to be gone, but just save the image files you want to keep and forget about the rest.


Time Machine Encryption Specs I'm looking for specs on Time Machine (TM) encryption.

Does TM encrypt before transmitting over network? (i.e. 128-bit AES)
What level of file encryption does it store the files as? (i.e. 128-bit AES, 428-bit blowfish, etc.)

Apple documents it's cryptographic certifications online:

https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT201159

From the PDF for Crypto Officer on OS X 10.10 (these documents and evaluations happen after the OS is released, so look for 10.11 crypto certifications mid-winter to early spring) it states that

“FIPS Mode” is enabled all the time automatically without the need for installation, administration or configuration.
FileVault 2, Kerberos, Keychain Services, Software Update Services, Time Machine, VPN, and 802.1X are all FIPS 140-2 compliant

So, if you spend a lot of time reading those links - you'll see the the certification was done to Level 1 requirements. Nothing about Time Machine makes sense about network since it decrypts things to run. According to this Apple Support page, the encryption used on disk is XTS-AES 128 encryption


Does uninstalling and installing a MacOS App Store App do anything? I have some issue with a Mac OS application that I got from the App Store. The support suggested to uninstall the app and install it again.  My question is: Is there any way this can help?

There is a separation of programs and user data in MacOS, so uninstalling the program and reinstalling it should be no-op in total. Is it?

It should be. It won't delete any of your documents, but you might want to back up these locations, if they exist:

~/Library/Preferences/com.whatever.appname.plist
~/Library/Application Support/AppName

You almost certainly don't need to do this--I don't know what exactly the App Store uninstall process does--but it doesn't hurt to be safe.

Update: Due to sandboxing, you won't find anything in either of these locations. (All apps from the App Store are sandboxed, but apps you get somewhere else probably aren't.) You should look here instead:

~/Library/Containers/com.whatever.appname


Why 2 same files have different size on NTFS? I have 2 same files residing on an NTFS filesystem:

Romans-MacBook-Pro:cut poma$ md5 src.mov
MD5 (src.mov) = 7d59d01e5efffe3a258eff86d8b775a0
Romans-MacBook-Pro:cut poma$ md5 copy.mov
MD5 (copy.mov) = 7d59d01e5efffe3a258eff86d8b775a0

According to ls they have same sizes and same attributes:

Romans-MacBook-Pro:cut poma$ ls -l@
total 10681888
...
-rw-r--r--@ 1 poma  staff   290300838 Jan 19 13:56 copy.mov
    com.apple.quarantine            22
    Mac_Metadata            20
-rw-rw-rw-@ 1 poma  staff   290300838 Jan 19 13:12 src.mov
    com.apple.quarantine            22
    Mac_Metadata            20

But according to Finder and mdls they have different size:

Romans-MacBook-Pro:cut poma$ mdls src.mov
kMDItemFSContentChangeDate = 2015-01-19 06:12:45 +0000
kMDItemFSCreationDate      = 2015-01-05 04:54:25 +0000
kMDItemFSCreatorCode       = ""
kMDItemFSFinderFlags       = 0
kMDItemFSHasCustomIcon     = 0
kMDItemFSInvisible         = 0
kMDItemFSIsExtensionHidden = 0
kMDItemFSIsStationery      = 0
kMDItemFSLabel             = 0
kMDItemFSName              = "src.mov"
kMDItemFSNodeCount         = 290301124
kMDItemFSOwnerGroupID      = 99
kMDItemFSOwnerUserID       = 99
kMDItemFSSize              = 290301124
kMDItemFSTypeCode          = ""

Romans-MacBook-Pro:cut poma$ mdls copy.mov
kMDItemFSContentChangeDate = 2015-01-19 06:56:04 +0000
kMDItemFSCreationDate      = 2015-01-19 06:56:04 +0000
kMDItemFSCreatorCode       = ""
kMDItemFSFinderFlags       = 0
kMDItemFSHasCustomIcon     = 0
kMDItemFSInvisible         = 0
kMDItemFSIsExtensionHidden = 0
kMDItemFSIsStationery      = 0
kMDItemFSLabel             = 0
kMDItemFSName              = "copy.mov"
kMDItemFSNodeCount         = 290300838
kMDItemFSOwnerGroupID      = 99
kMDItemFSOwnerUserID       = 99
kMDItemFSSize              = 290300838
kMDItemFSTypeCode          = ""

AFAIK resource forks should appear in ls -l@ as com.apple.ResourceFork attribute. There is no such attribute on my file. What may be the difference between them?

UPDATE: I didn't notice at first. Both files reside in NTFS filesystem which is accessed through Paragon NTFS driver v12.

This is probably due to how Paragon driver handles native NTFS compression. If I understand their docs correctly, it can un-compress on-the-fly, but cannot actually write the file back in compressed state.

From their faq page:

How does the NTFS for Mac® driver handle compressed files?
NTFS supports its own compression feature. It is impossible (without a special copy routine) to copy compressed files or directories “as is” - because after the reading step we get the uncompressed file or directory. However, if the destination folder is compressed (on an NTFS partition), then the file or folder will be compressed too.

You can confirm your suspicions from Windows, by using standard Windows tools:
https://technet.microsoft.com/en-us/library/cc976811.aspx
(Unfortunately, I haven't found any tools that can confirm it from Paragon)


Add a Service to an Application, not General I have a script that I'd like to show up in the Services menu of the QuickTime app.
I already know how to make scripts show up in the "General" section of Services, which makes them available in every app.  And know macOS comes with categories of Services in System Preferences.
Is there a way to assign a custom script to a single application?

To have an Automator Service/Quick Action show up in only a given application's Services menu, then in this case set, e.g.:
Workflow receives [Automatic (Nothing)] in [QuickTime Player]
      Note that [Automatic (Nothing)] is the default and can be changed as appropriate.
When setting in [QuickTime Player] the Automator Service/Quick Action will only appear in the Services menu of QuickTime Player, although it will show under General: in the application's Services menu.
It this case it will also show under General in: System Preferences > Keyboard > Shortcuts > Services
As you can see in the pictures below, Say Foobar shows on the Services menu of QuickTime Player, but not Safari.

Example:


Why does iPhone Maps app sometimes ask to enable Wi-Fi for "accuracy", even though Location Services (GPS) is enabled? Background:

I have an iPhone 3GS with iOS 5.1, and a 3G data plan that I keep enabled. I also keep "Location Services" (GPS) always on, since I use applications that take advantage of it.

However, I make a point of keeping Wi-Fi turned off because it's a battery sucker and I seldom use the phone within range of a base-station for which I'd be authorized – and I dislike the practice of hopping onto unsecured "free" networks, even briefly.

Scenario:

Sometimes when I need to look up an address or directions I use the Maps app.  When I launch the app for the first time in what seems a while, I see a dialog telling me I should "enable Wi-Fi to improve accuracy".

I forget the exact text for the dialog, but that's the general message and the buttons are "OK" and "Settings". ("OK" apparently meaning "I get it, now go away", as opposed to "OK, enable it.")  I find the dialog both irritating, and puzzling.  When I dismiss it, I still get an accurate location, far as I can tell!

So I'd like to know:

Why is it that Maps is telling me the location accuracy would be improved with Wi-Fi enabled?  Is there some problem with GPS that Wi-Fi can somehow compensate for?  I fail to see how this would be helpful.  Isn't GPS accurate enough?
In terms of dealing with the annoyance: Is there a way for me to silence that dialog once and for all?  I dislike continuing to acknowledge something I've been informed of dozens of times already.

Thanks!

The iPhone uses assisted GPS to improve the accuracy of the location system using GPS and cell towers. Wi-Fi networks are used to help determine the device's location; this is called a hybrid positioning system (XPS).

Prior to iOS 4 iOS tapped into the Skyhook Wireless database of Wi-Fi hotspots and their locations. Apple disclosed in April 2010 that they had switched over to their own proprietary database.

  If Location Services is on, your device will periodically send the geo-tagged locations of nearby Wi-Fi hotspots and cell towers in an anonymous and encrypted form to Apple, to augment the crowd-sourced database of Wi-Fi hotspot and cell tower locations. In addition, if you are traveling (for example, in a car) and Location Services is on, a GPS-enabled iOS device will also periodically send GPS locations and travel speed information in an anonymous and encrypted form to Apple, to be used for building up a crowd-sourced road traffic database. The crowd-sourced location data gathered by Apple does not personally identify you.

For your security concerns, read this Apple press release.


Prevent administrator from resetting password of another administrator I'm running Mac OS X Yosemite. There are multiple administrator accounts in my Mac. I don't want an administrator to snoop into another administrator's account. Is there any way I can prevent an administrator from resetting the password of another administrator account?

The simple answer is no.

Best practices on multi-user Macs dictate Standard accounts for all users, with a separate administrator account setup for maintenance work (software installs and/or updates, etc.) The philosophy is that with great power comes great responsibility, and an innocent mistake can cause havoc.

Daily use of Macs (and PCs for that matter) do not require the elevated privileges granted to a administrator account. At home, for example, I've created two admin accounts: one for emergencies, and my own account. Three other accounts: for my spouse and 2 kids, are Standard. When my kids are old enough to have their own Macs, they'll have only standard accounts, too, with a separate admin account for maintenance & whatnot. When they make enough money to purchase their own Mac, then they can decide how secure to make them.


Import and export bookmarks in Skim How can I import my Skim bookmarks so that they can be restored on a clean installation of OS X?

They're stored in ~/Library/Preferences/net.sourceforge.skim-app.skim.bookmarks.plist. You should quit the application before restoring a copy of the plist.


How to permanently turn off check spelling while typing in macOS! How to permanently turn off check spelling while typing in macOS - for each and every app. Whenever I turn off this option in anyone of my default or third party mac apps within a few seconds these option turns itself on automatically, so is there any option to turn this off permanently across each and every app?

I have already tried each and every solutions mentioned in these question Can't disable 'Check spelling while typing' in 'Notes' in OSX El Capitan 10.11.6

But still it automatically gets turned on!

Go to system preferences, keyboard. Click on text tab and there is an option on that window to correct spelling automatically. Uncheck that box.


Can I use the built-in camera of my Apple Cinema Display on Windows 10 I have a 27" Apple Cinema Display (non Thunderbolt) working fine on Windows 10, except for the built-in camera that is not being recognized. Is there any way to activate it or any drivers that I can download that can make it work?

I was facing the same issue. The problem was that although I had connected the monitor to my laptop using the mini display port, I had not plugged in the USB cable. The camera on the Apple cinema display needs the USB connection in order to be recognized and start working. I connected the USB cable from the monitor to my laptop, and everything works well.


Sync Desktop now that Dropbox no longer supports symlinks How can I have my Desktop sync over Dropbox?

Previously, I used symlinks to have Dropbox sync the Desktop and Documents folders while keeping them in their actual locations. Dropbox no longer supports symlinks in this way.

So far as I know, there are only two possible ways to do this, and neither ways are available as of the latest macOS (Catalina, 10.15) and the latest dropbox updates (EDIT: it turns out that there is a workaround for the problem with the second way!).

The first way is to create a symlink within Dropbox that points to a folder outside Dropbox and will trigger Dropbox to sync its contents. This is how I used to have things until the latest dropbox updated (apparently triggered by my updated to Catalina) broke this method. As the questioner notes, this method is no longer supported by Dropbox.
The natural workaround (the second way) is to (i) place the desktop folder contents in a folder within the Dropbox folder, then (ii) effectively turn the actual desktop folder (stored in the user folder) into a symlink (e.g. per these instructions; EDIT: this is also effectively what Alex Szatmary suggests). Unfortunately, this by itself results in only partial success: on Catalina, so far as I've seen, after restarting the computer, the desktop reverts back to normal desktop configuration (no longer functioning as a symlink pointing into the corresponding desktop folder in the dropbox folder). EDIT: But there is a workaround: once the desktop folder is turned into a symlink that points to the desktop folder in the dropbox folder, go to the "Home" folder, and 'get info' on the Desktop alias/symlink and check the box "Locked" in order to lock the folder. This way it will not be deleted and replaced with the normal desktop folder upon restart and logging in.


Re-added certificate leads to unknown authority Messing around with Keychain Access on macOS Sierra, it seems like I have accidentally deleted trusted root certificates in Keychain Access.

What I did was opening a *.p7s file to add a S/MIME certificate. This threw an error:

An error occurred. Unable to import the certificate.
Error: -26276

, but still the certificate ended up being listed in Keychain Access. Next, opening Mail and creating a new Email I was able to use the certificate. I decided to delete the certificate from the Keychain and re-add it in order to resolve the error. Therefore I deleted all entries containing the name of the trusted source I have used for my certificate (I believe).
Now adding the same certificate again, still an error appears but the then listed entry says: This certificate was signed by an unknown authority, and Mail doesn't let me use it anymore...
I have also created and added a new certificate with the same authority leading to the same result.

Is it even possible I have deleted the default trusted root certificates from inside Keychain Access, or why else can I not use the certificate anymore? Is there a way to reset or fix it?

If you have in fact deleted a trusted root certificate, then you must

add it again
trust it again

In order to trust the certificate, open it by double-clicking on it in the keychain, open the Trust section, then set When using this certificate: Always trust.

In order to make Mail accept the newly trusted certificate, it may be necessary to quit and re-start Mail.

If all fails, you could re-install your macOS over the existing installation which will most probably restore all pre-installed root certificates again.


use two time capsules together I want to use the newer time capsule as my wifi.  I need the second time capsule because I don't have enough wired ports.
How can I connect the two of them?  I don't need the wifi on the second one.  Which one do I plug into the cable modem and how do I physically connect the second one as in do I plug it into the first one that has the wan cable plugged into it?  How do I configure them both? Thank you.

I do this by using AirPort utility to turn off WiFi on the second Time Capsule. Configure it for:

turn off the network which places it in bridge mode
allow setup over WAN if you want to plug the WAN port of the second AirPort into one LAN port of the Time Capsule that runs as a router.

Leave all other settings default (so wipe restore the settings) and then give it a name and make the changes above.

So ethernet goes from the cable modem to the first TC WAN port. Then ethernet goes from the LAN port of first TC to the WAN or LAN port on the second TC.


Where is my download from iTunes? I purchased 'Chris Hardwick Mandroid' SD Movie on iTunes.  I see it in Finder, and I see it in my Recently Added playlist... but I don't see it in my list of Movies or TV Shows on iTunes.

First Question:  Am I too big of an idiot to consume such media on my Mac?
Second Question (seriously):  Where do I find my media in iTunes?!

From the Recently Added playlist you should be able to right-click (or ctrl-click if you don't have a right mouse button) and choose Get Info. Under the Options tab on the Get Info pane there is a choice for Media Kind. If that choice is set to Movie (as it should be) then you should be able to see it in your Movies list. Can you show the list of all things in your Movies and sort by Date Added?


"QuickLookUIService" Using Significant Energy After macOS High Sierra upgrade I noticed "QuickLookUIService" is always in "Using Significant Energy" list. Has anyone have same problem? And is there any suggestion about this?

MacBook Pro (Retina, 15-inch, Mid 2014)

Version 10.13.1

I had the same problem.
Here's a suggestion that worked for me, it involves creating a daemon that will kill the service QuickLookUIService every 5600 seconds (you can tune this setting).
Whole answer here with the daemon code is here: https://discussions.apple.com/thread/8506070
The one that I had to Force Quit everytime was QuickLookUIService (Spotlight). I'm running Mojave 10.14.6 on a Mid 2012 Macbook Pro 15' non-retina.
In a nutshell, this service is not responding using significant energy and avoiding switching to the integrated graphics, draining your battery until you kill it.


Safari window Space sometimes resets I have a mid-2014 15-inch MacBook Pro (the one with the Retina display) with macOS 10.12.6. I use spaces a lot and normally have my most-used apps open in specific spaces. One of these is Safari, which is set to always open in space 2 (out of 5). However, I often move Safari windows to different spaces as needed (for instance, if I'm going to use a website for reference while using an app that runs on space 4, I'll move the window with that website to space 4).

I tend to leave Safari open when I turn my computer off; that way, I get back any windows and tabs which I was using in my last session and am likely to use again in my next session. However, when the computer starts up, sometimes some of the windows which were in different spaces go back to space 2. It doesn't happen always, and when it happens it only happens with some windows (so, for example, the window on space 1 will remain there but the windows on spaces 3-5 will have migrated to space 2).

(I know that quitting Safari and reopening it causes all windows to go to the space where it's opened or where it's told to open in. I'm talking about Safari restarting by itself again after I've shut down or restarted the computer without having quit Safari, which normally puts windows in the spaces they were in before the computer was shut down or restarted.)

Does anyone know why this happens?

The only thing that is supported is 'one app, one Space'.
Once you spread an app to more than one Space, results will be at best random.

I would have expected that any relaunch, whether after reboot or not, would reduce your content to a single Space. I'm actually surprised it sometimes doesn't.


Is it 'OK' to use the root user as a normal user? I have enabled the root user on my Mac so I can log into it and run Finder etc. Being the lazy person that I am, just transferred everything from my home directory to /var/root. I'm not too sure of doing this, so I may move everything back. Is it technically 'OK' to be using this like a normal user? (I am the only one who can access my computer.)

Using your computer logged in as root all the time is like always carrying around all your keys, your passport, $5,000 in cash, that piece of paper with all your passwords written on it and the only photo you have of Flopsy, the adorable rabbit whose death broke your seven-year-old heart. Oh, and a chainsaw.

Which is to say, it's mighty convenient from time to time, because it means you can do whatever you want, whenever you want, without needing to go back home to get stuff or talk to your bank manager. But it also puts you at great risk of losing stuff, having it stolen (don't think that chainsaw will help you: you'll be streets away before you notice your wallet's gone), doing things you really regret later (impulse-buying plane tickets to Vegas while drunk), taking dangerous shortcuts (chainsawing through the lion enclosure fence because that's the fastest way to the pandas) and over-reacting (chainsawing your neighbour's car because his dog barks too much). And, when you think about it, mostly, you're just going to the office, going grocery shopping, hanging out with your friends. You don't need all that stuff with you all the time just for the convenience of needing it, what?, once a month? Once a week?

So, no, it's not OK to use the root account all the time. It gives you a tiny amount of convenience but puts you in a lot of danger. There's the danger of stupid mistakes having catastrophic results ("Hey, why is rm -rf * taking so long to run? **** I'm in /!"). There's the danger of acclimating yourself to the idea that all files are equal and you can just mess about with whatever you want, anywhere in the directory tree. There's the danger that any hack to your account is immediately a hack to the whole system, so now every single piece of software on your machine is security-critical. And even if you think you don't care about your machine getting hacked (after all, that photo of Flopsy is a real piece of glossy paper, not some ephemeral JPEG), I care about your machine getting hacked because then it's on the botnet that's mounting the DDOS attack against whatever internet service I can't access today.

Root is your spiderman costume. It gives you great power but requires great responsibility. It's there in the closet whenever you need it, so you don't have to wear it all the time.


Yosemite 10.10 Install? So I'm trying to boot a yosemite installation from an 8GB USB with the dmg file I downloaded from the app store, but once I hit "option" during my mac's startup and choose the correct usb, I get the following error

"Cannot Install Yosemite on the Mac. Yosemite already has been installed"

This is of course false as I have OS X 10.7 and I'm trying to upgrade to 10.10

Any help or ideas?

Update: Per a suggest I've inputed the following code into my terminal:

pkgutil --packages | grep -i base ; uname -a ; sw_vers ; pkgutil --pkg-info  com.apple.pkg.BaseSystemBinaries

Here was the Result:

com.apple.pkg.BaseSystemBinaries
com.apple.pkg.BaseSystemResources
Darwin *****-*****-MacBook.local 11.4.2 Darwin Kernel Version 11.4.2: Thu Aug 23 16:26:45 PDT 2012; root:xnu-1699.32.7~1/RELEASE_I386 i386
ProductName:    Mac OS X
ProductVersion: 10.7.5
BuildVersion:   11G63
package-id: com.apple.pkg.BaseSystemBinaries
version: 10.7.0.1.1.1309412550
volume: /
location: /
install-time: 1436744136
groups: com.apple.snowleopard-repair-permissions.pkg-group com.apple.FindSystemFiles.pkg-group

Hopefully this give more insight into my issue.

Thanks

Sounds like a fault, or that perhaps there is a conflict. You are trying to upgrade from 10.7 to 10.10 and its possible you either can't do that, or your machine is incompatible. Although I expect it would tell you as such.

In any case, what ever the reason is your only real way forward is to backup with Time Machine if you haven't already onto an external hard drive, and then do a fresh install rather than an upgrade.

After you've done this during the install process you'll be able to import old backups etc... You can use your backup from Time Machine to restore your files on OS X 10.10.


Adding Ricoh C4501 printer via command line - Installable options I need to deploy one Ricoh MFP to ~50 Mac users. I thus wan't to do this through ARD/CLI. I'm looking for the correct lpoption tags for the Ricoh MP C4501. I want to set the "Finisher" (SR3020) and "Option Tray" (Lower Paper Trays) in a cmd that can be distributed via ARD.

So far I can add the printer no problem... what I can't manage to do it set the installable options for it, here's where I'm up too:

lpadmin -p [PRINTER_NAME] -D [USER FRIENDLY DESCRIPTION] -L [PRINTER LOCATION] -E -v lpd://[PRINTERS DNS NAME] -P /Library/Printers/PPDs/Contents/Resources/RICOH\ Aficio\ MP\ C4501

Above is line one of the cmd and it works like a charm... below is each lpoption on its own line and as it doesn't work - I'm guessing I've got it wrong...

lpoptions -h lpd://[PRINTERS DNS NAME] -E -p [PRINTER_NAME] -l
lpoptions -h lpd://[PRINTERS DNS NAME] -E -p [PRINTER_NAME] -o media=A4
lpoptions -h lpd://[PRINTERS DNS NAME] -E -p [PRINTER_NAME] -o OptionTray=Lower Paper Trays
lpoptions -h lpd://[PRINTERS DNS NAME] -E -p [PRINTER_NAME] -o finisher=Finisher SR3020

Basically - "OptionTray" and "Finisher" are complete guesses based on the naming in the PPD file itself... Ricoh wouldn't talk to me because we lease our boxes and the company we lease from... I'm still waiting for their help desk to respond...

I really hope someone can help...

I know your post is old, but I was having the same issue with almost the same Ricoh Printer.

The finisher name looks like Finisher SR3020 in the OSX system preferences, but in the terminal it's a code name that you have to supply.

Type the following:

lpoptions -l

That will display all the options for your printer. One row will be titled:

Finisher/Finisher: *NotInstalled FinisherOne FinisherTwo Etc

The list of all available finishers will be displayed. My SR3020 was displayed as FinEUPHPOS. Thus I edited my script to be the following and it worked perfectly:

NAME="Printer Name"
DESCRIPTION="Printer Description"
LOCATION="Printer Location"
ADDRESS="printer.location.com"
PPD="RICOH Aficio MP 6001.gz" //printer driver file
FINISHER="FinEUPHPOS" //printer finisher name

lpadmin -p "$NAME" -D "$DESCRIPTION" -L "$LOCATION" -E -v lpd://"$ADDRESS" -P "/Library/Printers/PPDs/Contents/Resources/$PPD" -o "$FINISHER"


Some user's images of StackExchange are not displayed on my mac. Since this morning I noticed that some of the user images of this site are not displayed, both on safari and on chrome (all the "fractal" images are displayed, and alo some pictures, but others are not). Is this a problem of StackExchange or of my computer? I have OS 10.10 Yosemite, and the latest versions of safari and chrome.

The user images (avatars) are stored on various services, such as Gravatar. It is possible one or more service is either unavailable or blocked on your network.

If you use a third party advert blocker within your browser, you may find some user images are blocked. Some advert blocking software considers single-source/multi-website user images a means of tracking your activity across the Internet, and thus blocks the images from loading.


Unable to reinstall MacOS Mojave on a hardware modified, mid-2012 MacBook Pro I decided to reinstall Mojave onto a mid-2012 MacBook Pro that I purchased second hand in June 2020 & modified some of the internals of*. I have a lot of files from previous backups of files as well as from the last time I used Windows in 2018, & it was beginning to get a bit glitchy. While I did follow the instructions on the Apple website to make a bootable USB stick with Mojave on it with Terminal, I don’t think that I formatted the USB correctly.
It also gives me an error that says “This copy of the Install macOS Mojave application is damaged and can’t be used to install MacOS.”
The previous owner had installed Catalina onto it, but I’m also an artist who needs 32-bit app support. Last year, I managed to get a USB stick with Mojave on it working (I currently don’t have access to it), but I’m beginning to think that’s why I can’t reinstall Mojave.
Terminal tells me it’s on Bash version 3.2. I’ve tried internet recovery (which has never worked with this machine), & changing the date to some time not long after Mojave’s original release date.
I’m at a complete loss.
*I replaced the original, failing 750GB HDD with a 2TB SSD; replaced broken super-drive with a SATA adaptor & a 1TB SSD; increased RAM to 16GB; replaced depleted battery with fresh one. I didn’t buy them all at once.

I managed to solve it myself by going into recovery mode, trying but failing to install Mojave, then going to Disk Utility, view > show all volumes, having some files that said something to the effect of “EAS install files” (I can’t quite remember the name) burned to one of the internal SSDs. I then exited Disk Utility, went Apple Logo > Start-up Disk, & booted it up from one of the SSDs.
It then reinstalled fine, but it took about 6 hours in total.


Stop VPN Disconnecting when going to Sleep When the iPhone (4) goes to sleep, the VPN will disconnect.
Is there any way to disable this behavior as it's sometimes a bit annoying.

I am jailbroken, and the server I'm connecting to is Windows Server 2008 R2 which I can edit settings on.

The VPN will disconnect because your WiFi disconnects.

Therefore you would have to...

either reconnect your VPN connection when on 3G (How?)
or enable your iPhone to keep connected to WiFi (requires jailbreak)

To keep WiFi on in sleep mode you need to install KeepAwake via Cydia.

See this step-by-step guide.


I have a Safari publicity issue? I downloaded an app for "watching FREE online tv shows" and obviously the app didn't worked, so I uninstall this app and now every time I click on any link in safari (most of the times in youtube) i get a new tab with publicity.

Im really worried about this because its something new for me, I can't find a solution, I installed an ad block from safari extensions and restored safari and nothing works.

Please help me!

Thanks.

PS. If you need screenshots, log indo or something let me know.

You've downloaded adware and possibly malware onto your computer. You'll need to remove it.

To check for adware, try AdwareMedic:

http://www.adwaremedic.com/

For malware removal, ClamXav is a free and effective choice:

http://www.clamxav.com/

Good luck with the cleanup!


About MIME: is it possible to always "Open With“ text file with a a command line script? I want to always "Open With" text file, such .cpp/.h files with a command line script. I can use "cmd+shift+G" to open the folder of the command line script. However, Mac OS does not allow me to choose the script. Mac OS only allows me to use Applications.

So is there any workaround?

Thanks

You would not only have to create an app, but you’d have to be able to assign it to open files of that type. That seems like it would outside the ability of most users, so I’m going to disqualify it as a “solution”.

The only option that I can think of would be to use Keyboard Maestro to assign a keyboard shortcut to open a selected file in Finder with the shell script.

The precise way to do this can be found by asking at http://forum.keyboardmaestro.com/.


in iOS is it possible to silence call ringing without using Do Not Disturb? On my phone (iPhoneSE running iOS 12.x) I rarely ever receive any legitimate phone calls, but I get loads of spam.

I would like to silence all calls except for my one Emergency Contact, but without impacting any other notifications at all.

This means I can't use Do Not Disturb because it silences all notifications.

Is there any way to silence all phone rings except for one person, but without using DND mode or otherwise silencing notifications?

Immediately upon posting this question, I had a flash of insight as to a possible solution.  Turns out it works perfectly!  Here's what I did:

Add a "silent" ringtone to your phone (instructions at https://www.wikihow.tech/Set-a-Silent-Ringtone-on-an-iPhone or just Google "silent ringtone on iOS")
Set this silent tone as your default ringtone under Settings > Sounds
Enable a custom ringtone for all contacts that you actually do want the phone to ring for.

Note that the caller must not have their caller ID blocked for their custom ringtone to work.

Now your phone will only ring on calls from those specific contacts, and nobody else, all without using DND mode or disrupting any other notifications on your device.  Nirvana!


Does the MacBook Air have no RAM because it uses flash? Silly question, but does the MacBook Air not actually have RAM because it uses Flash or what?

Does it make application loading faster than the MacBook Pro?

Every model of the Macbook Air has RAM. Every computer has some amount of RAM.

What led you to believe it didn't have RAM?


Fluid: when I try to login, my Fluid App launches the default browser instead I've created a Fluid App for my favorite website.

But there's a problem when I try to login to the website in the Fluid App I created: my default web browser (in my case, Safari) launches instead.

Why can't I login? Why does my Fluid App defer browsing to my default browser when I try to login to the website?

Fluid Apps try to keep your browsing limited to the website or webapp you chose when you created the Fluid App. Therefore, any Fluid App will send you to your system default web browser (like Safari or Firefox) if you browse to a URL "outside" that website.

Now, determining what constitutes a "website" is more black art than exact science. "Website" is in scare quotes because a website is a rather vague idea that may include documents and resources that are located on different servers... and therefore located in different URL domains.

Also, the login flow for many websites often quickly and quietly redirects you thru several URLs that may or may not look anything like the home URL you provided. This will cause Fluid to defer browsing to the system default browser.

Your Fluid App looks at any URL it is asked to display and tries to guess whether the resource at that URL is part of the same "website" as the home URL you provided. This is a tricky guessing game, and Fluid can never be 100% accurate out of the box.

The good news is that Fluid has a whitelist/blacklist feature for allowing/disallowing browsing to any URL pattern you choose. Basically, you need to define what constitutes your Fluid App's "website" to control what your Fluid App is allowed to do.

To configure this feature, go to your Fluid App's Application Menu (to the right of the Apple menu):

Preferences > Whitelist Preference Pane

In the Whitelist Prefpane, you can add/edit/remove URL patterns that will keep your Fluid App browsing only to URLs you would like. Select the "Allow browsing to URLs matching these patterns:" radio button.

In the "Pattern" table below, you should add a Wildcard Pattern for any URL which you want to your Fluid App to visit. Star ("*") is a special Wildcard character in this table. Star means "match anything here", and is a powerful way to easily include or exclude very large groups of URL patterns.

Alternatively, you can use full Regular Expressions instead of Wildcard Patterns by wrapping your URL pattern in forward slashes / like: /http:\/\/google\.com\/.+/. If you don't know what Regular Expressions are, forget I mentioned them. They're much more complicated, and Wildcard Patterns can almost always get the job done more easily.

If you find that your Fluid App is unnecessarily kicking you out to your default browser (say, Safari) you should try to determine the first URL that is loaded in Safari. This first URL is the one that Fluid thinks is not part of your "website". After determining that URL, you should add a pattern to the table described above to match that URL. I suggest applying stars liberally to the pattern so that Fluid will be more accepting of browsing to a similar URL.

Fluid also ships with a fair amount of "special case" code by default for some of the more well-known webapps. Basically, this means that Fluid has a collection of URL patterns that are known to work for some of the more popular webapps (especially ones that quickly redirect you to URLs that don't match the common home URLs), and Fluid will automatically insert these patterns on first launch. Gmail is a good example and the default patterns for Gmail are shown in the screenshot above.


How can I figure out why my Apple TV drops connection when using AirPlay Hi – I have a really frustrating issue with my Apple TV(s). I have two of them, and several iOS devices, and this issue exists for all combinations.

The issue: I'll be streaming something in Safari, YouTube App, etc. and AirPlay it to my TV. It works fine for awhile, but then all of a sudden, the video will stop playing. On my iOS device, I get a message that says the connection has been dropped (or something along those lines).

Like I said, I have this issue on both Apple TVs. One is hardwired to the router, and one is operating via WiFi. At this point, I have to believe that it's something happening on my network causing packet loss.

My main question is how to troubleshoot this issue. Anyone have any idea where I can get some sort of log from the Apple TV, or perhaps the iOS device? I could go through my router settings and just guess at stuff (which I already did) to try to improve network quality, but I really need to be able to narrow down what the issue is.

Any insight on how to troubleshoot this issue would be much appreciated. Thanks!

There are multiple tools available on your Mac.

open Console and look around the time stamp of the event (lost connection) to see what is it reporting.
Use Ping to test the connection speed and stability

Apple TV: Go to the Settings menu on Apple TV, select General > Network -note the IP address (you will need it later).

Start Network Utility

Ping your Apple TV IP, you might want to run a continuous ping to see if it changes significantly over time.

Read more "how to" here:

Testing TCP port connectivity between computers and devices


How to know that a macbook pro box has never been opened ? How to know that a macbook pro box has never been opened ? Is it all about the plastic stuff or there is some sort of sealing there ?

MacBook, MacBook Air & MacBook Pro boxes are sealed with shrink wrap. Inside, the machine has a clear plastic sleeve with an Apple license sticker which has a perforated strip which is intended to be broken. However you can open this sleeve from the side leaving the sticker intact.


Does the iPad 2 have a TV Out? Can someone help me get started on showing iPad 2 videos (and possibly photos) easily on my TV?

Yes. http://www.apple.com/ipad/specs/

  Video mirroring and video out
  support: Up to 1080p with Apple
  Digital AV Adapter or Apple VGA
  Adapter (cables sold separately)
  Video out support at 576p and 480p
  with Apple Component AV Cable; 576i
  and 480i with Apple Composite AV
  Cable


I need help uninstalling PostgreSQL on my Mac running 10.7 I got PostgreSQL from here.

Since I'm on 10.7 OS X, I'm having problems.

I want to uninstall the software I got from enterprisedb.

Any tips?

http://www.enterprisedb.com/resources-community/pginst-guide

There is a one-click uninstaller that removes everything except the data director and user account. The default data directory is /Library/PostgreSQL/$VERSION/data, so rm -rf that directory (or wherever you instructed the installer to create it).

To remove your postgres user (assuming it is named 'postgres'), first list your users to verify that the user 'postgres' and group 'postgres' are what you expect: (just a safe check) before deleting anything.

sudo dscl . -read /Users/postgres

sudo dscl . -read /Groups/postgres

Look for the "real name" field, to ensure that it matches the version of the db you are removing.

Then remove the user and groups:

sudo dscl . -delete /Users/postgres

sudo dscl . -delete /Groups/postgres

Obviously, be careful when using sudo.


Does my MacBook Pro 3.5mm audio jack accept microphone input? How do I find out whether the 3.5mm audio jack on the side of my MacBook Pro (2.9 GHz Dual-Core Intel Core i5, early 2015) allows audio input from a headset microphone.  (I need a headset for Zoom).

All PowerBook and MacBook models support TRRS style audio input. Check with the vendor of your headset if you want to use any buttons or volume control if you have questions. Apple branded headphones work well, as do many third party options.


What is iTunesHelper? In my account settings under Login there is an app called iTunesHelper. What does this app do? Can I remove it from the login apps without affecting iTunes, or will it be put back?

It is a program that launches iTunes whenever an iPhone/iPod/iPad is plugged in. If I recall correctly, if you remove it, iTunes will no longer automatically launch when an iPhone/iPod/iPad is plugged in.


What data does the Carrier IQ daemon log from iPhones? There has been little written technically about the Carrier IQ software on iPhones despite it being present on iOS 3, 4, and now iOS 5.

From what I can tell, the daemons vary depending on the firmware version of the device (as well as where the default log files lie):

iOS 3: /usr/bin/IQAgent logs to /var/logs/IQAgent
iOS 4: /usr/bin/awd_ice2 or /usr/bin/awd_ice3 logs to /var/wireless/Library/Logs/IQAgent
iOS 5: /usr/bin/awd_ice2 or /usr/bin/awd_ice3 logs to /var/wireless/Library/Logs/awd

To avoid a huge effort to answer this - I've provided the iOS 3 and 4 information to illustrate the length these have been around but would be happy to get answers focused exclusively on the iPhone data collected under iOS 5. More general or detailed answers are always welcome, but I'll choose the best answer that covers iOS5 and:

Is personally identifiable or data associated with my unique device / serial number collected?
Does this collected data sync to my computer to iCloud?
Is some or all of the data transmitted over the air or WiFi directly to anyone other than Apple?

Since there are many variables, please try to provide the carrier you have, the phone model as well as whether you opted in to send this diagnostic data. All reports I have seen is this software only runs when you opt in and cleans up / stops reporting as soon as you opt out.

It appears that very little, and it can be completely disabled.

  Carrier IQ, the now infamous “rootkit” or “keylogger”, is not just for
  Android, Symbian, BlackBerry, and even webOS. In fact, up through and
  including iOS 5, Apple has included a copy of Carrier IQ on the
  iPhone. However, it does appears to be disabled along with diagnostics
  enabled on iOS 5; older versions may send back information in more
  cases. Because of that, if you want to disable Carrier IQ on your iOS
  5 device, turning off “Diagnostics and Usage” in Settings appears to
  be enough.

  http://blog.chpwn.com/post/13572216737


Setting up new Apple ID, I keep getting message that password is not complex enough I have chosen a password that has one upper case, lower case and 3 numbers,  but I still keep getting a message that it's not complex enough.  Why?

According to Apple's support site

Strong passwords
Apple policy requires you use strong passwords with your Apple ID. Your password must have a minimum of 8 characters, not contain more than 3 consecutive identical characters, and include a number, an uppercase letter, and a lowercase letter.


Murus internet sharing not working I have Murus 1.4.12 and am following the directions to share my internet connection from en0 (static IP connected to Comcast modem/router) through en3.  Both the client and server are macOS High Sierra 10.13.1.  I am successfully able to share it via System Preferences -> Sharing.  Regardless of Murus, I am able to use en3 as a network device and ssh into the host over it -- just cannot share internet.

After resetting pf to its default state via Murus, installing boot scripts, and restarting, I create an NAT group with 10.0.0.25/32 (en3's IP) with access to all services.  I then attempt to share internet connection from en0 (WAN interface) to en3.

On the client machine with its own static IP of 10.0.0.234 and router of 10.0.0.25, I am able to ping and ssh into 10.0.0.25 but do nothing else.  When I sniff en3 via Murus I can see my attempts to ping 8.8.8.8 but everything times out on the client.  The relevant pf rules Murus is generating are as follows:

table <NatLanInterfaces> { en3 }
pass net proto {tcp, udp} from {10.0.0.25/32 } to !<NATLanInterfaces> port {1:65535}

Can anyone see what I need to add or fix to let 10.0.0.234 access the WAN?

Your set up is probably faulty. A static route on the second router (connected to the ISP) isn't required.

The proper set up looks like this:

Open Murus and hit the wrench > Static NAT

Choose the proper LAN and WAN interfaces. In your environment the WAN interface probably is en0 or en1 and your LAN interface is en3.
Then move the mouse pointer to your NAT group and hit the looking glass:

Remove the current IP/network address (in your case 10.0.0.25/32) and add the "NAT-client's" IP address (in your case 10.0.0.234/32) or a network address (e.g. 10.0.0.0/24).

You added the gateway's address (instead of the NATed network/host) by accident.

Add "ALL SERVICES" to the Allowed Internet Services.
Close the NAT window.
In the menubar > Firewall > Interface Forwarding choose "Enable".
In the upper right corner of Murus hit the start button (►) - just to be sure.
Test the NAT with the client.


How to securely delete individual files (documents) on the iPhone? My understanding is that when files are deleted on a computer (and here, I am considering the iPhone a "computer"), those files are typically recoverable using forensic tools. I know there are easy ways to delete everything securely, however...

How can one delete individual files on the iPhone such that they are unrecoverable, without deleting everything?

This app in Cydia seems like it would do the trick (provided it works as advertised):

http://cydia.saurik.com/package/iwipe/

The app works by making a very large file that takes up all the free space in the user memory and writes zeros to all the bits. So to securely delete individual files, one would simply (insecurely) delete them (marking them as free space), and then wipe free space with the above app.


Speed of old Filevault vs. new Lion full disk encryption How do the old Filevault and the new Lion full disk encryption compare speed wise?

ATM I am using Snow Leppard with FileVault to encrypt my whole home directory, which makes opening IPhoto, Chrome or ITunes annoyingly slow.

AnandTech — Back to the Mac: OS X 10.7 Lion review: FileVault performance compares (a) performance with and without FileVault 2 — both excluding FileVault 1.

It may help to find a comparison of (b) Lion with and without FileVault 1 — both excluding FileVault 2. However: in the excitement around version 2, it may be difficult to find someone benchmarking/testing version 1 on Lion.

If both (a) and (b) can be found: read the two alongside each other.

My hunch is that answers will vary, depending on what the user has in the home directory.

In my case, after abandoning FileVault 1 in favour of FileVault 2 for a 318 GB startup volume in a MacBookPro5,2, the sum of the sizes of the attributes and catalog B-trees is around 4.9 GB — for a computer limited to 8 GB memory, a considerable sum:

[macbookpro08-centrim:~] gjp22% date
Sat 30 Jul 2011 19:14:26 BST
[macbookpro08-centrim:~] gjp22% uname -a
Darwin macbookpro08-centrim.home 11.0.0 Darwin Kernel Version 11.0.0: Sat Jun 18 12:56:35 PDT 2011; root:xnu-1699.22.73~1/RELEASE_X86_64 x86_64
[macbookpro08-centrim:~] gjp22% sudo fileXray --volume_header /
# HFS+ Volume
  Volume size          = 318 GB (296 GiB)

# Volume Header
  signature            = 0x482b (H+)
  version              = 0x4
  lastMountedVersion   = 0x4846534a (HFSJ)
  attributes           = 10000000000000000010000000000000
                       . kHFSVolumeJournaled (volume has a journal)
  journalInfoBlock     = 0x948
  createDate           = Sun Apr 17 00:33:38 2011
  modifyDate           = Sat Jul 30 19:14:22 2011
  backupDate           = 0
  checkedDate          = Sun Apr 17 08:33:38 2011
  fileCount            = 6478678
  folderCount          = 436279 /* not including the root folder */
  blockSize            = 4096
  totalBlocks          = 77592939
  freeBlocks           = 10772212
  nextAllocation       = 52271602
  rsrcClumpSize        = 65536
  dataClumpSize        = 65536
  nextCatalogID        = 79803393
  writeCount           = 349797840
  encodingsBitmap      = 00000000000000000000000000000000
                         00000010000000000000000011011111
                           . MacRoman
                           . MacJapanese
                           . MacChineseTrad
                           . MacKorean
                           . MacArabic
                           . MacGreek
                           . MacCyrillic
                           . MacChineseSimp

  # Finder Info
       # Bootable system blessed folder ID
         finderInfo[0] = 0x3e4357c (speedy:/System/Library/CoreServices)
       # Parent folder ID of the startup application
         finderInfo[1] = 0x3e87cda (speedy:/System/Library/CoreServices/boot.efi)
       # Open folder ID
         finderInfo[2] = 0
       # Mac OS 9 blessed folder ID
         finderInfo[3] = 0
       # Reserved
         finderInfo[4] = 0
       # Mac OS X blessed folder ID
         finderInfo[5] = 0x3e4357c (speedy:/System/Library/CoreServices)
       # VSDB volume identifier (64-bit)
         finderInfo[6] = 0xbbc2127
         finderInfo[7] = 0xac90a940
       # File System Boot UUID
                  UUID = 031C0245-ADB2-3BDA-96D0-3C2616ACC11F

  # Allocation Bitmap File (CNID 6)
  logicalSize          = 9728000 bytes (9.7 MB)
  totalBlocks          = 2375
  clumpSize            = 0 bytes
  extents              =   startBlock   blockCount      % of file

                                  0x1        0x947       100.00 %

                         2375 allocation blocks in 1 extents total.
                         2375.00 allocation blocks per extent on an average.

  # Extents Overflow File (CNID 3)
  logicalSize          = 9437184 bytes (9.4 MB)
  totalBlocks          = 2304
  clumpSize            = 9437184 bytes
  extents              =   startBlock   blockCount      % of file

                               0x2149        0x900       100.00 %

                         2304 allocation blocks in 1 extents total.
                         2304.00 allocation blocks per extent on an average.

  # Catalog File (CNID 4)
  logicalSize          = 3544186880 bytes (3.5 GB)
  totalBlocks          = 865280
  clumpSize            = 177209344 bytes
  extents              =   startBlock   blockCount      % of file

                              0x4b679      0x3c9d0        28.69 %
                              0xfc349       0x287a         1.20 %
                             0x122346      0x1bbda        13.13 %
                             0x142047      0x12a52         8.83 %
                             0x121a0f        0x91a         0.27 %
                             0x120d38        0x310         0.09 %
                             0x10c8ad      0x10760         7.79 %
                               0x2a89      0x3f600        30.00 %

                              0xdce49      0x15200        10.00 %

                         865280 allocation blocks in 9 extents total.
                         96142.22 allocation blocks per extent on an average.

  # Startup File (CNID 7)
  logicalSize          = 0 bytes

  # Attributes File (CNID 8)
  logicalSize          = 1423966208 bytes (1.4 GB)
  totalBlocks          = 347648
  clumpSize            = 203423744 bytes
  extents              =   startBlock   blockCount      % of file

                              0x88049      0x54e00       100.00 %

                         347648 allocation blocks in 1 extents total.
                         347648.00 allocation blocks per extent on an average.

# Volume Header SHA-1
  ef3c7622787bfbd73b65a73a82261aee9197dbe5

# Auxiliary System CNIDs
  HFS+ Private Metadata Folder   = 18
  HFS+ Directory Metadata Folder = 19

Presented by Disk Utility 12 (346) for my startup volume:

         Capacity : 317.82 GB (317,820,678,144 Bytes)
       Free Space : 43.88 GB (43,882,483,712 Bytes)
             Used : 273.94 GB (273,938,194,432 Bytes)
  Number of Files : 6,476,859
Number of Folders : 436,264

Presented by Finder 10.7 for my home directory:

152,306,364,403 bytes (155.61 GB on disk) for 308,668 items

Presented by du for my home directory:

Sat 30 Jul 2011 18:23:14 BST
[macbookpro08-centrim:~] gjp22% uname -a
Darwin macbookpro08-centrim.home 11.0.0 Darwin Kernel Version 11.0.0: Sat Jun 18 12:56:35 PDT 2011; root:xnu-1699.22.73~1/RELEASE_X86_64 x86_64
[macbookpro08-centrim:~] gjp22% sudo du -sh ~
Password:
145G    /Users/gjp22

If the default 8 MB size of bands in a .sparsebundle is as optimal for Mac OS X 10.7 (Build 11A511) as it was  for previous releases of the system — and if (as I suspect) a significant proportion of oft-used files in my home directory are much smaller — I might find that abandoning FileVault 2 in favour of FileVault 1 feels better. That feeling might be difficult to quantify, but I do plan to take the FileVault 1 approach, hopefully before the end of September 2011.

http://identi.ca/conversation/77065575#notice-79879336 links to an overview (work in progress) that will include performances of the two versions of FileVault alongside other considerations. Most of that work is now transferred to Ask Different as answers under the following question:

Apart from being able to encypt an entire volume, what are the other differences of FileVault 2 over FileVault?

In Super User:

FileVault performance Snow Leopard

If I find anything more of relevance to the opening question, I'll post again here.


How to transfer whatsapp data without backup I want to transfer whatsapp data to another iPhone, but I can’t make a backup due to a lack of storage.

I have deleted all what is in my iPhone, but it still shows the message “there is no enough space”, it seems “Other” or the system files fill up my iphone.

Are there other ways to transfer the data ?

I'd recommend a full iOS backup and restore onto the other iPhone, if you are going to be using that iPhone as well. That will copy everything over so you can have not just your whatsapp info but the other application and user data.

That is the most efficient way to accomplish what you are asking for.


Issues with auto updating App Store - OSX Ive got 5 or 6 Macs that I'm responsible for the security of. One of the things I want to do is keep all the macs on the latest security patch for their respective OS.

We have a mixture of 10.10.5 and 10.11.x OS across the different machines, some of the machines, need to be on 10.10.x as some mission critical software we use on them only runs on 10.10.x

I noticed there is an auto update feature for the OSX App store, but I'm concerned of two things :

It will auto update the OS to Sierra or what ever is latest when it is auto updating (I only want to update to the latest version of my current OS to encompass security patches etc.)
If a user choses to restart the machine in the middle of the day it will start trying to install software and take 30 mins to to install where as the user was only hoping to do a quick restart and get back to work

Is there a way around either of these points?

As far as I know and I'm using a MacBook Pro too, when you set automatic update, it will automatically download and install update.

However, for big upgrade, it always ask you do to it, such as upgrade from the current version to Sierra.


How do you perform a proper time machine backup when you have existing data in the hard disk that you have saved Sorry for the asinine question but I am pretty much paralysed with fear on how to do a proper backup without losing anymore data. My hard disk went blank and I managed to salvage the data with the help of apple tech stuff.
My current hard disk that I purchased in a moments urgency contains the files that I have saved. I would like to do a proper back up and what's holding me back is that if I were to use my external hard disk as it is, I fear that the files I have saved would be erased.
I was thinking of cutting and pasting the data from the hard disk into my laptop, with that, I have an empty external hard disk to begin the time machine process. I wonder if this sounds practical.
I read that there is a need to format the external hard disk but I am not sure. I am using Western Digital ready to use for Mac.
I read that it is good practice to encrypt the time machine, but I read that selecting this option will erase the external hard disk completely and hence the previous point on cutting and pasting the data into the laptop in the first place.
I am using Mac Catalina.
Would be grateful if someone points me to the correct direction on how to perform a proper time machine backup considering that I have a partially used external hard disk.

Take a look here: Does my Time Machine backup disc need to be dedicated?
My TM backup hdd also has other files. TM is in a directory that it makes on the first run.
The issue can be the size of your backup. Is will grow over time. TM will remove old files when the hdd gets full.
When in doubt get an extra hdd. Your backup is worth the money.
And after a few years it is wise to start again with a fresh hdd. Hdd don’t get better over time. Just start a new backup, don’t copy the TM data, it will take extreme amount of time and it does not help you in finding old files. You can open the old TM backup also.


Windows 10 on Imac mid 2011 High Sierra 10.13.6 Hi guys im trying to install windows 10 on my second internal hard drive ssd with a caddy.
I have already done the usb boot but when i try to boot form the usb to install windows i receive a blue screen and then the imac power off. I tried a lot of things but i think that i have made a little bit of mess,pls im fighting with this imac since 2 days its getting really stressfull.
im posting my screenshots so i hope u colud help me.Thanks a lot

You may not be able to boot from the second drive. If this is true, then one possible solution would be to put the Windows boot files in a very small partition on the first drive and there rest of Windows on the second drive. The method of booting is covered in the Microsoft document BIOS/MBR-based hard drive partitions. Below is an example.

  Since you are EFI booting from the flash drive and installing to BIOS boot, the Graphic User Interface will not allow you to install Windows. Therefore, I have chosen to use the Command Line Interface (CLI).

Below is an example of how to partition the drives. Basically, the difference between your question and below is the following.

A ~100 MB FAT formatted partition labeled SYSTEM was added to the end of disk0.
disk0 is hybrid partitioned with partition 4 marked active.
There are no active partitions marked on disk1

Next is a outline of the steps.

Download and mount latest Windows ISO from Microsoft. You should do this from macOS or OS X.
ExFAT format a flash drive. Use the Master Boot Record (MBR) partitioning scheme.
Copy all the files from the Windows ISO to the flash drive.
From the Mac Startup Manager, EFI boot from the flash drive.
Follow the sequence below to open a Command Prompt window.

When the image below appears, click on Next.

When the image below appears, click on Repair your computer.

When the image below appears, click on Troubleshoot.

When the image below appears, click on Command Prompt.

The result should be the image shown below.

Enter the command echo list volume | diskpart to get the drive letter to volume mapping. In my case the following was observed.

C: The small volume labeled SYSTEM on disk0
D: The larger volume labeled BOOTCAMP on disk1
E: The installation media.

If you have different drive letters, then make the appropriate substitutions.
Enter the following commands to NTFS format the Windows partitions.

format c: /v:SYSTEM /fs:ntfs /q
format d: /v:BOOTCAMP /fs:ntfs /q

Apply the Windows 10 Pro image to the BOOTCAMP volume. If you need a difference image, then post a comment.

dism /apply-image /imagefile:e:\sources\install.wim /name:"Windows 10 Pro" /applydir:d:\ /checkintegrity

Add the boot data and files to the SYSTEM volume and the Master Boot Record (MBR) of disk0.

bcdboot d:\windows /l en-us /s c: /f bios
bootsect /nt60 c: /mbr

Close the window and turn off the Mac.

exit

When the image below appears, click on Turn off your PC.

Use the Mac Startup Manager to make Windows the default operating system. Boot to Windows and complete the installation.

  After you finish installing Windows, do not forget to install the Windows Support Software from Apple.

References

BIOS/MBR-based hard drive partitions
DISM Image Management Command-Line Options
Dual Boot Win 7 on MBR with Win 10 on GPT
Bootsect Command-Line Options


Open multiple instances of an app (spark e-mail app) I would like to use an app multiple times. I installed Spark which is from my point of view a great email app. I have two companies with various accounts (pr@...,contact@...) and instead of having all of them in the same app I'd like to have spark1.app for company1 and the same for company2/spark2.app for example.

I already tried open -n -a APPNAME but Spark is telling me that there already is a copy running !

Any suggestions ?

Even if you get two copies running, they're both going to be sharing the same set of prefs & repositories... & both trying to write to them at the same time.

This is a very bad idea.

If you want two mail apps handling two different mail accounts simultaneously, use two different mail apps.


Can I use my Nexus 4 charger to charge an iPhone 4s? I have a Nexus 4 charger (the block with the USB port on it) lying around. Can I use it to charge my iPhone 4s? Is it going to cause any trouble?

Because USB is a standard of 5V at 100mA increments, the charge should work without any problem.  Some chargers sadly prevent themselves from working unless you use their device with their charger.  You are much more likely to find a charger decides not to work with your phone than the charger will break your phone.


iOS: How do I transfer a mp3 from Google Drive to iBooks? I have an mp3 audiobook on Google Drive that I want to listen to in iBooks on my iPhone. How can I transfer/copy/open that file from the Google Drive app on the iBooks app?

I have found this and works for me: https://www.guidingtech.com/31994/audiobooks-iphone-ipad/


Is it possible to find out mac user account login history I have given my mac book to my friend.

I have created new account to him and gave the credentials for it.

I have a doubt what if my friend logged into my account by guessing my password.

It's an easy password.

So I would like to know if my friend managed to login to my mac user account ?

so if there's any history stored somewhere, I can confirm yeah my friend did login in to my account or else I can be rest assured.

Any help is appreciated.

To see your login history on your Mac:

Open Terminal.
Type the word last followed by your username. For example: last udhyantimilsina
A list of login activity for your user account will appear in reverse chronological order.


Locking iPhone in a Certain Time Zone I live in a town that is right on a Time Zone border (it actually cuts right through the town).  The entire town itself is on Central Time, but depending on which cell tower you hit, my iPhone will either display Eastern Time or Central Time, and it's not exactly obvious which one it is unless you're paying close attention.

Is there a way to lock the phone into a specified Time Zone, or at least enable the Time Zone to show alongside the time (e.g.: 16:15 CST)?

You can disable the automatic setting of date/time in Settings->General->Date & Time. Of course this also means that you have to manually set the time if you actually move to a different time zone on purpose.


How secure is File Vault 2 on Mac, given the fact that resetting/finding out someone's login password is not impossible? There are ways to break File Vault 2 encryption: https://www.blackbagtech.com/blog/2017/07/13/macquisition-best-just-got-better/

Since you can reset a password when it's locked, I wonder in practice how secure is FileVault in the real world.

Furthermore, even if someone like the aforementioned Macquisition isn't used, can't someone just login to your user account?

File Vault won't protect you from someone with the means to grab your laptop when you have it unlocked and image it. Neither will it prevent someone from coercing your password from you or just snooping it from reuse / yellow post it notes, etc... https://xkcd.com/538/

FileVault is designed to prevent trivial surreptitious attacks:

booting to single user mode to add a new admin account
looking at your data (or copying unencrypted files) by booting to another OS that someone brings to your Mac

Filevault is good protection from people that can't or won't steal your password to unlock your drive. In a nutshell, it enforces authorization to decrypt your data, apps and OS with a password of your choosing.

https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT204837


Photo meta data editor for OS X? I'm looking for software that will let me do bulk edits on metadata for photos in my iPhoto library. Specifically I'd like to be able to edit the date on the photos and the location information.

I'm going to be adjusting large numbers of photos so batch operations are an absolute must for me. Bonus points if I can copy and paste meta data information from one photo to many other photos. And it would be especially helpful if I could copy just specific meta data fields, not all the data or none of the data.

I've already tried to do some of this stuff in iPhoto and some of it is possible, but not great, and some of it is impossible. For example: I can edit the location meta data on photos but the UI for doing so is kind of awkward and slow, though it does support batch editing. I cannot edit the date and time stamp on photos though. That's one field I'd really like to edit (because the camera had the wrong date and time on them when some of these photos were taken).

So I'm looking for non-iPhoto suggestions here.

You can edit Date and Time in iPhoto, and do it in batches too: Photos Menu -> Adjust Date and Time - and it will also correct the date and time on the original file if you choose to.

Another thing to consider: iPhoto catalogues the images on import. If you subsequently change the metadata with a 3rd party App, iPhoto won't recognise this. It will not rescan for changed metadata, so while you're original files may be corrected, it'll make no difference in iPhoto.


Hostname changed after setting up virtual host in MAMP I have MAMP Pro installed and recently configured a local virtual host called: test.local.

Now my OSX terminal prompt says

test:~ username$

I just noticed also when an email bounced back the raw header also shows test.local:

Received: from cpe-111-111-111-111.lns1.lon.somehost.com ([222.222.222.2222]:22222 helo=testhost.local)

I've tried running...

scutil --set LocalHostName properHostName

…but it hasn't had an effect.  Also, if I do override it to the original proper hostname, will there be negative side effects?

Doing this fixed it:

sudo hostname properhostname.local

And I haven't noticed any side-effects yet.  I can still access the virtual host using testhost.local.  Works after a MAMP restart also.


Can I remove original music file after imported into iTunes w/ copy enabled I've been putting all my music into a folder 'Music' then going to itunes and importing into library. The copy to itunes/media setting is enabled.

Does that mean after the music is copied I can delete the original? So all it needs is the music files it copies into home > music > itunes > itunesmedia > music. Or are they still used?

Yes - unless there is something wrong with iTunes and it didn't copy the song, you can delete these second copies of songs.

I would use spotlight to check before you delete things until you gain confidence that the copy is working as designed. In the long run, it will be faster to let iTunes move the files so you don't need to clean things up.

Also, a good Time Machine backup can help if you accidentally delete too much.


Does removing an Exchange account from an iOS device remove the admin’s ability to wipe the device? I added an Exchange account to my personal iPhone via Settings. Afterward I got a warning that an Exchange admin would have the ability wipe the phone remotely.
Does deleting the account eliminate that ability?

To look for installed profiles that could enable wiping your device, take a look at System Preferences > General > Profiles.
The listing is usually near the bottom, above Shut Down, Reset, Legal & Regulatory and below Languages & Region, Dictionary, and VPN.


USB 3.0 Card on a 2008 Mac Pro running Yosemite 10.10 I have a 2008 Mac Pro that I used to have a USB 3.0 card installed on that has stopped working with each OS release and is dependent on the use of a Kext Wizard which can create compatibility and sometimes other issues that make it more difficult to troubleshoot and lag a couple months behind a release of the OS update as well as getting rid of the kexts can be a pain if they are creating conflicts. It also is an issue when doing clean installs.

The card I have does not have an FCC ID or brand label on it and is simply labeled as "USB 3.0" with 2 USB 3.0 ports. The single chip on it says:

  D720200AF1 112EV073G CHINA

Those that I have looked at already:

The LaCie USB 3.0 LaCie ExpressCard for Mac has not had a driver update in 2+ years.
The Sonnet Allegro USB 3.0 on Amazon card looks physically the same as the unmarked board I have but with additional printing.
There are some cards on eBay that claim to use the NEC/RENESAS chip or same specifications but it looks the same as the card I have and as the Sonnet card and sound like they require a Kext. Note I got my card from eBay years ago as well

I am looking for a specific card by an established vendor for the 2008 Mac Pro to get USB 3.0 speeds (not just a 2.0 with some boost, but true USB 3.0) that doesn't require the use of Kext Wizards and as much chasing of emulation drivers used in Hackintoshes and has been confirmed to work with Yosemite.

Has anyone found that that exists?

Note: It is my assumption/opinion 10.10 Yosemite will likely (based on its age and is already oldest version supported and the hardware unique to the 2008 and not as upgradable as the 2009+ doesn't support many of features of Yosemite {airdrop, handoff, support for current version of Bluetooth, USB, CUDA, etc...) be the last to support the 2008 Mac Pro but the system still is going strong and close comparable benchmarks to my 2012 & 2013 ones so I would like to continue to use it as long as possible. I am only noting this to try to mitigate some of the editorial comments and keep the discussion 'on topic'.

(Just wanting to close the loop on this topic since it's an old question without a definitive answer)

The chip for the device referenced by the OP - D720200AF1 - has long since been EOL'd by the manufacturer.  There have been some references to "hacks" to get this to work, but ultimately, they are unreliable because a device driver is more than just support for a particular chipset.  Ultimately, no native driver exists for card in question.

That said, to get USB 3.0 on a Mac Pro (2008 through 2012 models), Inatek makes a very good 4 port USB 3.0 PCIe adapter card.  Their specifications state that it works with Yosemite and above and I can confirm that it works with El Capitan (it also works with Windows XP through 10).


Stop FaceTime from answering a call with Play/Pause button F8 When a call comes in via FaceTime on macOS Catalina the Pause/Play button ( generally f8 ) will answer the call. The problem is that if you are listening to music with something like Tidal and are used to controlling it via that same pause/play key your instinct is to try and pause the music you can take the call. When you do this the music will keep playing, but FaceTime with answer the call.

I have check the FaceTime preferences and general keyboard shortcut setting, but I can't seem to find anywhere to disable this.

Is there a way to disable the Pause/Play ( F8 ) button from answering/ending calls in Catalina?

This has been driving me nuts for a long time. It's not an ideal solution but if you open FaceTime and go to Preferences, there is a check box for Calls From iPhone. The description reads, "Use your iPone cellular account to make and receive calls when your iPhone is nearby and on Wi-Fi."
If you uncheck that box when you receive calls your Mac will no longer try to answer the call, leaving the play/pause button to control your music only.
I would have preferred that when I get an incoming call and I press the play/pause button that my music is paused and the call was answered, but until this is fixed, the solution above was the best I could come up with to end the insanity of music playing and phone call coming in at the same time.


How to create a Windows 7 installation USB from OS X? I'm trying to create a Windows 7 installation USB (for use on a PC) from OS X.

I've tried following these instructions from a similar question on superuser:

Insert the USB flash drive and run the command diskutil list to find out the disk name, we'll use /dev/disk1 as an example
Now unmount the disk using diskutil unmountDisk /dev/disk1
dd if=/path/to/Win7.iso of=/dev/disk1 bs=8192

But the instructions don't work. When I insert the created USB drive into my PC and try to boot from it, I get this message:

  Reboot and Select proper Boot device or Insert Boot Media in selected Boot device and press a key

What am I missing?

Turns out OS X Lion ships with Boot Camp 4.0, the coolest feature of which appears to be the ability to create install USBs.


Is there a way to get Apple mail to display like gmail? This might be the wrong forum, but I'll ask anyway.
I set up Apple mail and don't like the display, compared to gmail (in Chrome/Safari).

I like the table layout where I don't see any specific email content until I select the specific email.

Like this

The closest I can come in Mac mail is this below, but it still shows each emails content.
I know I can slide the window up and down from dragging the dot in between, but that's not what I want.

Is this possible in Mac mail?

No, Apple Mail has only classic layout on or off mode.

You can compensate it by turning off the classic layout, making the mail list super wide & use double click to open a mail window & close it with the shortcut.

Mojave: Mail → Preferences → Viewing → Use classic layout checkbox.
Catalina: Show the message list in column layout: Choose View > Use Column Layout (a tick indicates the layout is in use).

https://support.apple.com/en-in/guide/mail/mlhl7fa3a90d/13.0/mac/10.15

However, if you're looking for alternatives, Edison Mail's GUI is heavily influenced by Gmail's web version. (That was one of the reasons I deleted it.)


is there an App that can extracts parts of a mp3 file without re-encoding the file? I have a big (one hour) mp3 file and want to make one mp3 for song or section of the big mp3, without re-encoding.

Would be great to have a  UI that  permits the selection of the sections that I want to save as individual mp3s.

I want to know if is at all possible to do it without re-encoding the file section again.

Sounds like Rogue Ameoba's Fission should do what you want:

  With Fission's streamlined audio editing, you can quickly copy, paste and trim audio, as well as split files. Fission also works with compressed MP3 and AAC formats to edit without the quality loss caused by other editors. Get perfect quality audio when editing natively in the MP3, AAC, Apple Lossless, AIFF and WAV formats.


App-switching confusion on a fresh OS X SnowLeopard 10.6 system I am a new Mac user with an early 2008 MacBook, and I have a fresh installation of SnowLeopard 10.6. When I use CMD + TAB I can switch between running applications. But when I switch / choose between another app with this command all that appears is the menu bar of the app, current window stays the same. e.g. I am in Firefox, switching to Finder the top menu bar changes to Finder but Firefox window stays in front. Thanks for the help!

I found an article on cnet.com that suggests restarting the Dock. To do this, launch /Applications/Utilities/Activity Monitor.app, select the Dock process, and press the Quit Process toolbar button.
If #1 doesn't help, the article states that you should try deleting this file: ~/Library/Preferences/com.apple.dock.db and restarting your computer.
A comment on discussion.info.apple.com indicates that removing login items sometimes corrects the problem. To check your login items, open System Preferences, go to Users, select your account, then select the Login Items tab.


Wacom Bamboo Create Driver for MacOS 10.12 I have a late 2015 Retina iMac running MacOS 10.12, and have connected a Wacom Bamboo Create tablet via the USB cable. It works, sort of, moving the cursor around the screen when using the finger. However, none of the other features work, including using the Bamboo stylus.

When I try to install the drivers from the Wacom support site dated January 2015, the installation fails.  When I open system preferences, the Wacom icon is there, but when I click it is says that:

  There is a problem with your tablet driver. Please reboot your system.
  If the problem persists reinstall or update the driver.

I rebooted the system, reinstalled the Wacom driver, and got the same result.

Does anyone know how to get this driver working? The Bamboo tablet is perfectly good and I really want to use it. again.

On 10/12/2016, Wacom posted Driver 5.3.7-6, which is certified for macOS 10.9x - 10.12x. I installed the driver and it works as expected.

Updated Wacom driver.

UPDATE -> macOS 10.13 High Sierra

(9/17/2017)
The current drivers work after upgrading to macOS 10.13 (High Sierra), but the installer removed the Prefs Pane (System Preferences) module. This means that you can continue to use the Bamboo after upgrading, but you will not be able to make any changes to the settings. I have put in a trouble ticket with Wacom on this, and will post any updates here as I receive new information.

I will also do some more research to see if there is a way to get around the prefs pane issue.

SECOND UPDATE -> macOS 10.13 High Sierra

(10/22/1017)
Wacom has posted updated drivers that support macOS 10.13 High Sierra:
http://www.wacom.com/en-us/support/product-support/drivers

But they do not support the older devices, which include the Bamboo Create.


What is near the front camera on iPad Air? I have a screen protector from Tech Armor designed specifically for the iPad Air but it covers a small, barely visible port or opening of some sort near the front camera.

I thought it was a microphone at first but upon further research, I don't think it is since the two mics are on top and back.

Is it just a light sensor perhaps and therefore doesn't matter that it's covered by a clear film?

It is the Ambient light sensor (ALS).

If Auto-Brightness is on, iPad adjusts the screen brightness for current light conditions using the built-in ambient light sensor.
Quoted From iPad User Guide For iOS 7 (October 2013) P.23

Additional information: Quora: Where is the Ambient Light Sensor located on the iPad


Disable Java Auto Update Prompt for 1.7u25 on Mountain Lion I'm having a heck of a time trying to disable the option
"Check for updates Automatically"

I ran composer to see what plist was being modified and it looks like
~/Library/Preferences/com.oracle.javadeployment.plist

<?xml version="1.0" encoding="UTF-8"?>
<!DOCTYPE plist PUBLIC "-//Apple//DTD PLIST 1.0//EN"    "http://www.apple.com/DTDs/PropertyList-1.0.dtd">
<plist version="1.0">
<dict>
    <key>/com/oracle/javadeployment/</key>
    <dict>
        <key>deployment.macosx.check.update</key>
        <string>false</string>
</dict>
</dict>
</plist>

So I experimented with changing that value to true or false and it would not effect the checkbox under the Java Control Panel > Update > Check for Updates Automatically

Your assistance would be much appreciated.

Initially I was looking @ /Library/Internet\ Plug-Ins/JavaAppletPlugin.plugin

Open a Terminal and execute:

sudo defaults write /Library/Preferences/com.oracle.java.Java-Updater JavaAutoUpdateEnabled -bool false

Source: https://jamfnation.jamfsoftware.com/discussion.html?id=6489

Update:  This answer has been confirmed to work on OS X 10.11.5 (El Capitan)


At the command line, how can I 'arrow along' faster using words instead of chr's I am at the command line and I have

. /this/set/of/directory/this_command "parm1", "parm2", "parm3"

When I 'up-arrow' to recall previous lines, how can I move along the line from "word to word". Ideally a directory separator slash ("/") will also count as word demarcation.

On other OS's I can use things like ctrl-[left/right]arrow or alt-[left/right] arrow to move "a word at a time" but I haven't yet found any keystroke combination on a mac that will let me do that.

In Terminal, you can use opt-[left/right] arrow to navigate word by word. Additionally, you can use opt+click to reposition the cursor.


mid-2015 MBP, 16GB, upgraded from 2.5 to 2.8 model. Benchmarks are almost the same, even worse for the 2.8 in some tests Any thoughts on why this would be? I migrated everything at power-on on the new mac after formatting its Samsung EVO 970 plus, so they have identical drive contents and OS. Also, the 2.8 gets hot quickly (during use it hovers at around 50 or 60 degrees, where the 2.5 sits around 30) and the fan comes on loudly. Running Mojave.

RESULTS

SINGLE CORE SCORE

MacBook Pro (15-inch Retina Mid 2015) Intel Core i7-4870HQ 2500 MHz (4 cores): 895

MacBook Pro (15-inch Retina Mid 2015) Intel Core i7-4980HQ 2800 MHz (4 cores): 965

MacBook Pro (15-inch Retina Mid 2015) Intel Core i7-4980HQ 2800 MHz (4 cores) AFTER PASTE REPLACEMENT: 962

MULTI CORE SCORE

MacBook Pro (15-inch Retina Mid 2015) Intel Core i7-4870HQ 2500 MHz (4 cores): 3605

MacBook Pro (15-inch Retina Mid 2015) Intel Core i7-4980HQ 2800 MHz (4 cores): 3382

MacBook Pro (15-inch Retina Mid 2015) Intel Core i7-4980HQ 2800 MHz (4 cores) AFTER PASTE REPLACEMENT: 3519

Have Intel Power Gadget running while benchmarking, and watch the temperature and frequency charts on both macs. If your 2.8Ghz Mac has cooling issues (poor airflow due to dust build-up, bad/failed thermal interface between chips and cooling system) then you'll probably the clockspeed (frequency) drop under load to keep temps under control.


Is it possible to get the native iPod Touch and iPhone apps on the iPad? If like me you have an iPad and iPhone chances are you want some of the apps on both devices.

For some reason the iPad has lost some of the apps, notably, Clock, Calculator, Weather, and Voice Memos.

For me some of these are important, Clock gives me world times, a timer and alarms. Weather, tells e the weater (although I can look on the web) Caluclator helps out every now and then.

I am aware that there are apps which perform these functions on the app store, I am wondering however, Is it possible to get the native iPod Touch and iPhone apps on the iPad?

I would prefer this soultion as my homescreens will have the same app icons on. I am currently running iOS5 on all devices and have some of the third party apps.

Since these apps are packaged as part of the Core iOS image, you will need to jailbreak the iPad OS to allow modification/installation of the apps currently shipped as part of the iPhone / iPod touch such as Calculator, Clock, etc...

The best technical description of /Applications on iOS is from The iPhone Wiki where it calls out the differentiation between iOS images and major release versions. I haven't ever used it, but the jailbreak package "Belfry" purports to do precisely what you ask and might make interesting reading as well in case you change your mind about jailbreaking in the future.


Replacing a cracked MacBook Retina Display with third-party hardware? I need to replace a cracked Retina Display on a 15″ MacBook (2015), but I do not want to buy Apple's expensive replacement parts. Is there third-party hardware that I could use? "Retina Displays" are simply high-PPI IPS or OLED displays, which many other brands of laptops also use.

Apple doesn't sell replacement parts to users, only to their authorized resellers and service centers. However, some used Apple screens are available in the aftermarket, as, for instance from ifixit.com.

I think your choices are:

A) Have Apple or an authorized shop replace the cracked screen;

B) Buy a used screen and install it yourself;

C) Buy a used MacBook (perhaps you could find one with broken electronics, or a bad keyboard or inoperative logic board) and take your chances that its screen will be good;

D) Find a non-authorized repair shop that can replace the screen (thus offloading the "where to get the part" challenge onto the shop, along with the risk that the "new" screen won't work); or

E) recycle your MacBook and replace it.