Safety precautions when using acetone Acetone can be used to smooth ABS prints.  What safety precautions should be taken during its use?

There are a few main safety precautions you should consider.

Make sure the area is well-ventilated. Acetone is flammable. A buildup of acetone gas could quickly get concentrated, meaning that a single spark could lead to disaster. Using a fan is good; angle it towards an open window. This is also to prevent exposure to acetone because of its toxicity.
Be prepared to fight a fire. Should vapor ignite, you may need to fight the fire. If it is large enough, then you should clearly evacuate the area. If it appears to be small, use dry chemical powder to snuff out the fire. Alcohol foam, water spray, and/or fog may be used on slightly larger fires. Acetone is not likely to cause a large inferno to rip through the building. But there's always the chance of a small fire. Be careful.
Create a vapor chamber. This is another way to stop a potential fire from spreading. It can also reduce contamination.
Wear gloves. This can minimize any potential transfer toxic effects. However, skin exposure is unlikely to cause major issues.

Acetone is toxic, as I mentioned before, but it is not highly toxic. Exposure via the eyes and nose/mouth is the main risk. Skin effects may occur (e.g. mild irritation), but they are minor and generally arise only after long-term exposure (hence the recommendation of gloves in some cases).

Acetone exposure is only a serious problem when a person is repeatedly exposed to levels greater than 1,000 ppm (severe effects only arise at much higher levels). It seems unlikely, given a proper ventilation system, that this will be an issue

In addition to all this, basic safety precautions such as wearing a ventilator mask and goggles should definitely be taken. When working with any such chemicals with the potential for bodily harm, these should absolutely be used.


Sliced object losing all detail in Cura I'm pretty new to 3D printing. I am using Repetier Host 2.6 with Slic3r (printer Geeetech i3 Pro B).
When I slice detailed models I get issues like this as the slice result:

This is the model in the example, Army Men flames of war single version.
I can slice simple objects fine, walls, cubes 2D logos etc.
Why is this doing this?
When I used Cura the slice is fine.

This is not "loosing details". What is is is this:
You can not print on air. So, certain things (like the backpack) require SUPPORTS that are removed after printing. Another example is the gun.
Your support setting force the slicer to set up quite a lot of supports and that is what you see - start removing them.
There ALSO is a problem with possibly you using too large a nozzle. Depending on that one you may loose details, but there is not even the basic form visible on your picuture because all I see are supports.
https://all3dp.com/1/3d-printing-support-structures/#:~:text=3D%20printing%20support%20structures%20are,added%20cost%20to%20the%20model. exokauns supports.


What effects does the non-carthesian coordinate system have on the Part-design process for printing with a belt printer? Background: What's a Belt Printer's Coordinate system?
For "normal" Cartesian (Portal, Cube) or Cylindrical (Delta) coordinate printers, the same Design Consideratons are to be kept in mind. But on a Belt Printer aka Printer Mill, the conversion from cartesian design space to cartesian or cylindrical printer coordinates is not applied in the same fashion, and as such some considerations based on subsequent laying down of full levels do not apply the same: While there is a common alignment of two axis, the third axis is tilted forward and the printhead does move in the angled X'Y'-Plane. While the Belt moves only in one direction, never backwards, there is a component of negative movement in that direction by lifting the printhead...
The formula for how the new coordinate system is translated to is thus as follows $$X'=-X$$ $$Y'=\cos(\alpha)Z$$ $$Z'=Y-\sin(\alpha)Z$$ To Illustrate this: The Red-Green-Blue is the orthonormal cartesian coordinate system. and the Magenta-Yellow-Cyan is the coordinate system the printer moves in:

The most common angle for currently available designs is 45° as in the Blackbelt or the coming Creality Belt Printer (pre-production in December 2020), making the math for the slicer somewhat easier as $\sin(45°)=\cos(45°)$. As a result of all the math, there is a Cura Derivate, the BB Cura 3.6.2.
Question
What impact does this movement pattern of laying down in an angle upwards have on considerations that have to be taken in the design stage of a model for 3D printing?

The first and most important design consideration is the overhang. Normally, when designing a part, you would make considerations based on the fact that gravity will act on the part from the "bottom" towards the top. As a result, when I am designing a part, I am always mindful of the fact that anything which protrudes outside of the intended printing base will be subject to "overhang" forces. Therefore, based on the layer height and nozzle diameter, there is a limit to the maximum overhang angle that can be serviced by the printer. Just as a side note, printers that co-extrude dissolvable supports, do not have overhang problems.

Additionally there are structural considerations with the laminations being at an angle, especially with holes that are intended to have heat-set inserts. Normally, when applying an insert the pressure is perpendicular to the layers. However, depending on where the hole is needed and how the part was printed, the inserting process could promote delamination of the layers and early part failure. It could be even worse with holes that are being threaded subsequent to printing.

Because the first few layers are going down at an angle, the layer adhesion will be unknown.

At design time, all you would need to do is keep an eye on those overhangs. I'd start all models on a plane that was at a 45degree angle. That way I can see the effect of having it being printed on its side rather than perpendicular to the bed.
"The first 3D-printed boat, 'built' by the world's largest 3D printer" was also printed with the nozzle at an angle to the bed; and that seems to have worked out well.


Vary line with Z-axis for imported SVG file I have an SVG file of a line drawing.  When I import it into Tinkercad it generates a 3D version with the width of the lines remaining constant along the Z-axis (as expected).  I would like to generate a similar STL but with the line width narrowing for increasing values of Z.  (Similar to the Bevel option in some of the Tinkercad Text shapes).
Can anyone point me at a tutorial on how to do this in Tinkercad, Blender, Meshmixer or Open SCAD?

In OpenSCAD you could create a bevel using the minkowski transformation by transforming the curve using tapered shape such as a pyramid or as I do below a tapered cylinder:
minkowski() {

  linear_extrude(1)
    import("drawing.svg");

  cylinder(h = 20, r1 = 10, r2 = 1);
}


Issue with weird heated bed temperature fluctuations I have a strange issue with my heated bed. It has been working well for a long time, but recently it has developed an issue where the temperature reported by the thermistor will occasionally jump by around 10 degrees.

My setup is a 600W, 240V silicone heater mat, with integrated 100k thermistor, that is switched with a solid state relay. The mat is fixed to a 4mm thick aluminium plate. It seems unlikely that these fluctuations are due to bad PID tuning since the reported temperature changes much more quickly than is physically possible.

I've checked the wiring, tried using a different thermistor port and making sure the connector was properly plugged in, but to no avail. The fluctuations are brief enough that they don't cause any problems when printing, but I'm worried about the issue getting worse.

I have a RAMBo board 1.1b, and I've tried using both the integrated 5V SMPS supply and an external USB supply.

The issue is not limited to the start of printing, the temperature reported can be stable for a long time before the issue pops up. The issue also occurs during cooldown (further confirming that PID has nothing to do with it):

In fact, the issue seems slightly more common during heat up and cool down, but is not limited to these times.

I would like to know what might be causing this issue, and if there's a way to solve it without replacing the thermistor (which would be a pain, since it's integrated into the heater mat).

It really looks like either a bad thermistor or bad electrical joints. Are the connections to the thermistor itself crimped, or soldered? Are there connectors near the thermistor that can get heated up by the bed?

Electrical connections that are mechanical in nature (such as crimped, or using a connector) can degrade quickly in heated situations, particularly when the heating is intermittent.  Consider replacing crimped connections with soldered joints where possible, and where not possible use gold plated connectors and crimps to avoid oxidation issues. Oxidation and poor mechanical connections will change resistance based on movement, giving you apparent increases or decreases in sensor readings even when the sensor output is unchanged.

Chances are good that the thermistor itself is fine, but that the connection nearest the thermistor, between the wires and the thermistor, is faulty. If it's crimped, you may be able to simply add flux, then solder it to increase the bonding between the wires and the thermistor and decrease future issues with oxidation.

Note that soldering is really only useful for the thermistor on the bed.  The head thermistor must be crimped, as the head temperatures can exceed solder temperatures depending on the target temperature and the solder alloy.


Correct amount of force on piece of paper when leveling bed I am having some problems with bed adhesion and curling of the edges. Also my printer causes alot of stringing when creating the first layer, this can cause the print to let go of the bed and then it just drags around with the nozzle.

I have a Anet A8 and i tried multiple different amount of force pressing down on the paper. But what is the desired amount of force pushing down on the paper? Is it supposed to move freely? Or is it supposed to be quite hard to move around under the nozzle?

Im using basic filament from Gearbest. Gearbest Filament.

Actual task in your case is to find correct nozzle height for the first layer, so the force for pulling out the paper is not important. It just has to be the same every time you make calibration. Because of the different force you apply, different paper thickness and other factors, found position can only be treated as 'relative'.

To complete the calibration you will have to make several test prints with different initial heights, starting from the lowest, adding 0.1-0.2mm (depending on the nozzle diameter) before you find the right value.

Please note that 1) initial layer height is not the only factor, affecting adhesion 2) some slicer programs may add not the same amount of height that you specify


Printer head too low when printing Problem

My CR-10 printer seems to be trying to print the model 4 or 5 layers too low. This means that for the first few layers, the printing nozzle is forced against the bed, preventing extrusion until the print reaches higher layers.

Outcome

This results in the bottom part of the print having the internal structure visible and the printing head deteriorating. I had to remove the old nozzle because it was clogged up with what I believe to be some residue that was picked up during preceding prints.

note: On this print, the top part is almost-well printed. It cannot be seen in pictures, but I say "almost" because the well-printed part is still much thinner than expected. This is the result of my purposeful mis-leveling the bed so that the part where the printer "homes" is higher than the lower part. I did this to see if there was any obvious bending of the printing bed. Doesn't look like there is.

Fix attempts

I have tried to re-level the bed multiple times, but it doesn't matter as the "too low" effect is independent from the location on the bed.
I have tried using the printer's built-in Z-offset but to no avail. This might be due to the fact that I control the print through Ultimaker Cura 4, so I tried looking for the Z-offset property in Ultimaker Cura and even though internet says it exists, I failed to find it.

History

The printer used to work perfectly well and I do not remember having changed anything before the problem arose. I recently changed the nozzle and made sure to tighten it as high as possible but the Z-offset problem still persists.

Did you verify the Cura z-offset actually changed the corresponding G-Codes?

I had the opposite problem on my RF1000. To fix the problem I added the following 2 lines to my start G-Codes:

M3001 ; Activate Z-Compensation
M206 Z-0.3 ; Set z offset 0.3mm closer to the nozzle

The first line was default in some example prints and is (as far as I know) only used by Renkforce printers. The second line moves the nozzle closer to the bed. In your case you'd have to move it further away and would need a positive Z value.


Why am I getting Z banding/shifted layer on a single layer? While I was calibrating my flow rate/extrusion multiplier, I noticed that one layer is shifted slightly. I wanted to re-print the cube in-case it was a fluke, but after two more prints, I saw that the same layer was being shifted in the same way. Also, that is the only layer that is shifted, every other layer is perfect/almost perfect.

I'm using Cura 4.3.0, on an Ender 3 which I purchased about a month ago. The extruder is upgraded to a Trianglelabs Bondtech BMG clone. The E, X, Y, and Z steps have all been calibrated. The bed is level (I'm using a Creality ultrabase glass bed). I have upgraded the stock PTFE tubing to Capricorn, upgraded the PTFE coupler fittings (they have plastic tab inserts to keep the tube in place). The X gantry is level. I've also re-lubed the z-rod with super lube, made sure the lead screw nut is loose and printed out a z-spacer for the z stepper motor. That's about it, I'm still using the stock board but my SKR mini is in transit right now. Finally, the filament I'm using is the filament that Creality bundled in with the printer when I purchased it off their official website so I don't know how quality their filament is.

Below is a picture of what I'm talking about, I've highlighted in the area with a sharpie. Sorry for the bad image quality my phone is on its last legs at the moment haha:

This is the guide I was using to calibrate the flow rate and also where I got the STL

I started this as a comment but it couldn't fit.  If it isn't a true answer and should be removed, I understand.

You suggest in your question that perhaps the defect could be caused by a problem in the Z-axis lead screw.  Indeed, that is possible.  If so, it would probably introduce a defect at that position across the entire print bed.  If you print a test object and the defect is on all faces at the same height, check your Z-axis.  With the power removed, try slowly moving the bed up and down through the region where the defect occurs, feeling for any hangup, hesitation, looseness, or any other non-uniformity.

If the defect is along a particular line, check the complementary axis.  If the glitch is a X-axis line, check the Y-axis.  If a Y-axis line, check the X-axis.  Slid the axis back a forth slowly, feeling for any non-uniformity in the motion.  It could be a scratch on the linear bearing, or a ding from dropping something.  Any discontinuity  can cause a linear Z-axis defect, up or down.

It could even be cause by the printer not being firmly sitting on the table at an angle, so that after a particular point the balance point changes and the printer rocks, introducing a glitch.

3D printers, and many other motion control systems, relay on flat, smooth, uniform bearing surfaces connected to smooth, continuous drive systems.

If you attach photos of all four surfaces, we might have a better idea of how to look for the problem.

It wouldn't hurt at this point to wipe and clean all sliding surfaces, and then re-lubricate them.


Why won't my filament feed through the extruder anymore? Printer: Monoprice Select V2.

I've done several prints already and swapped out filaments many times but in my most recent swap, I can't feed my PLA through any more.

I first preheat my extruder for PLA temps (185 °C). Then I press the plastic thingy to allow me to push as much of the filament into the hole as possible. Then I adjust my extruder position to try to suck it in. Usually after a few mm, I start to see the filament come out of the extruder and I also feel a pull on the filament from the top. But nothing is happening now.

However, if I adjust the extruder position in the opposite direction, it eventually pushes the filament back up and out, so I guess the "stepper motor" (is that what it's called?) is working (at least in one direction).

I'm getting ready to open the extruder module up to see what's going on, but wanted to see if anyone had any simple ideas for me to try before I unscrew anything.

I figured out the issue. I think I was shoving it in the wrong hole.

I took apart my extruder component. There's a good video on it here.
But basically, you just have to loosen the two bottom screws on the side fan like this:

I checked everything out first. I cleaned the extruder head with the included pin. I also shoved the filament through the heated area and filament came out ok.

But then I discovered the filament could go in the wrong way sometimes through the extruder.

This is the correct way for the filament to go through. It should come out of that plastic hole.

But once in awhile, I accidentally pushed the filament through this way.

If the filament was bent and I pushed the lever too hard, it would often find its way down the wrong path.
So I played around with how much force I should be holding down the  lever and how hard I should be pushing the filament through.

I don't know if other 3D printer extruder feeders are designed this way, but seems error prone. Or maybe it's just me.


Ender 3 V2 Extruder getting hot I'm still fairly new to 3D printing; got my Ender 3 V2 for Christmas last year. Recently the tension arm in the stock extruder snapped, so I bought and installed an all-aluminum replacement. My first successful(ish) print since installing it lasted two to three hours before I noticed the filament wasn't feeding. It had softened and clogged the lead-in to the Bowden tube just past the tooth gear. I figure the problem comes from (and what probably broke the original plastic) heat buildup; the new aluminum frame was VERY hot to the touch. I also noticed that the extruder motor was rather hot as well.
So you all know where I am: all I've printed with is PLA at 195 °C. Since changing extruders, I was getting over extrusion and dropped it to 185 °C and increased the retraction from 5 mm to 6.5 mm. The new one doesn't have (easily) adjustable tension, but the tension felt as strong as I had it on my old one, so I left it alone. I currently print within an enclosure, one of Creality's foil-lined ones since my printer is located in the garage (this is more for dust, but for longer prints I felt it was good to have since at the time it was getting very cold at night in the garage).
I don't think it's heat creep, since that meant it went all the way up the Bowden tube. My first guess is the ambient heat inside the enclosure. I am currently trying a new print with the top and side openings folded up to allow airflow. But I welcome more experienced suggestions and input.
Additional info
I think I was getting away with the low temperature (185 °C) because my printing enclosure held heat so well. I'm attempting to print outside the enclosure today to start removing variables to my problem, if it under-extrudes, I'll bump the temperature up again.
Please note that I replaced just the frame.
I wouldn't know how to adjust the voltage [of the Z-stepper] if indeed the [pre-set factory calibration is incorrect and causing the stepper to heat up]. The new tension arm is a bit tighter than I had it set on my old, but I can't imagine it's making enough resistance to overwork the motor without seeing other issues first.
I didn't see any signs of Heat Creep when I pulled out the filament. The only softening I saw was in the direct drive; it had been pushed into a conical shape that plugged the port into the Bowden just past the gears. I'm still leaning towards an issue with the direct drive (is that what it's called? still learning the terms). the aluminum was too hot to touch and I had to wait 10 minutes before I could safely depress the tensioner and pull the filament out. That or the motor is overheating trying to pull Filament through.
The motor driving the filament is on the opposite side of the Teflon tube, mounted to the vertical frame - it is not on the nozzle side of the Teflon tube.

You could still get heat creep with a Bowden tube.  It has different characteristics.  Instead of jamming up in the direct drive, the filament can melt too far upwards into the heat break where it can refreeze and jam.  The characteristic, if you can pull out the filament, is widened filament extending into the heat break.
See Air printing/jamming midway through raft creation
and
What are ways to avoid heat creep?
Adding fans to an enclosure improves the temperature control in the enclosure.


Printing with White pla, problems while printing a benchy boat So I am having trouble with this white pla, I am currently printing with a tempature of 225 degrees and going lower worsen the printing, but what I find strange is that it is always the same area that screws up.

I am using a Prusa MK3S, and printing with this fillament: https://shop.prusa3d.com/en/filament/39-white-pla-filament-1kg.html

EDIT:

NEW INFORMATION, this only happens with my white pla. I have a Silver one, and it prints it perfectly.

Secound white print, see that silver pla is totally fine.

Even from the same manufacturer different colors of filament have (slightly) different properties requiring different settings of your slicer.
But here it seems you have some underextrusion at this hight. Have you tried again the same file with the same filament and the same settings? It could be a fault in the white filament at that spot that (temporarily) clogged your nozzle.


School grant proposal I've been asked to come up with a grant proposal for a new 3D printer. My question is:

  What supporting components and training would be most beneficial to support educational use in a K-8 school? In other words what things am I missing in my list below?

Specific suggestions for things on my list that I may not have thought of are welcome too. A specific tool, etc.

The suggestion was to include a base proposal with stretch goals that include everything needed.

My current ideas are:

3D Printer - option of a Prusa Mk3 or a Railcore 300ZLT. Possibly add another Prusa Mk3 kit as a stretch goal for students to assemble.
Replacement and optional parts such as a hardened nozzle.
Training and professional development
Filament - a variety of kinds such as PLA, ABS, flexible, conductive, etc.
Dry box or supplies to make one.
HEPA filter.
Enclosure - heated and/or soundproofed.
Maintenance tools or supplies. Lubricant, etc.

The question changed after I answered, so I'll answer the new question.

My answers are based on seeing the results of 3D printing deployed in a nearby school system, and my own experience as a FIRST Robotics mentor in my son's school system.

Current question's answer

K-8

You are ambitious.  At the K level, I can see a group project to change a design (such as bracelets), and print the result.  This would be done by an adult operating the design software and managing the printer.

At some point, maybe G4-G5, the students would be in more control, with assistance at hand to help jump past barriers that appear (software bugs, clogged nozzles, ...).  By G8 the students should be able to handle the whole workflow if they have come up through the program.

It would be great if there were a version of Logo for 3D printing.  Maybe there is.

CAD

You will need some form of CAD software to make 3D printing useful.  Depending on the students, and assuming a small budget, you could look at OpenSCAD (or SolidPython) and OnShape.

OpenSCAD uses a simple language to specify and transform geometric shapes and to perform union, intersection, and subtraction functions.  SolidPython is built atop OpenSCAD works with Python IDEs.  With the Python language, loops and conditionals are more natural.  OpenSCAD is pretty simple, but some people prefer Python.  Designs are not "drawn", but are programmed.

OnShape is a cloud-based, traditional 3D design and modeling tool.  Free user licenses are available with the caveat that all designs are publicly accessible and copiable, but others may not change your copy. It will be familiar to users of AutoDesk and SolidWorks systems, although the dialect will be strange.

Both produce STL files for 3D printing the designs.

What is the purpose of 3D printing at the school?

Other training really depends on how 3D printing is integrated into the core curriculum.  If 3D printing is part of a class in the static analysis of structures, then the class would be providing the training about strength.

IMO, the best training is accomplished by giving students access to the equipment with a mentor available to answer questions.  Each student comes to 3D modeling and printing with their own curiosity and motivation, and those are best served by smoothing their chosen path with information and advise.

What can go wrong?

The worst outcome is where money is raised, equipment is purchased, and no one is available to make it work.  Or, it works great until the inevitable problem arises, and no one can resolve it.  I've seen this happen in a large, well-funded school system.  The students get frustrated, and the program loses credibility.  The well-off students buy their own equipment and carry on, while those who can't dismiss 3D printing.  3D printing becomes another failed adventure.

Typical Problems

Working in any school system is complicated.  CORI checks are required.  Special certifications and permissions are needed to work on school property.  Insurance and liability are raised as problems which block progress.  Often nothing is possible without a teacher-on-staff taking personal responsibility and directly supervising activities.

Scheduling prints which take over a few hours may be impossible.

Most problems can be overcome with strong support from teachers and administration.

Training Required

The most important persons to be trained are the teachers and/or mentors.  They will train the students, and the students will train themselves and each other.

The teachers/mentors should be familiar with the general operation of the CAD software, know how to operate the 3D printing devices, and be able to resolve all common problems.  Keeping the equipment available is important.  Going down for a month is a long time in a school semester.

If 3D printing is integrated into a specific part of the curriculum, the teacher of that curriculum will provide the subject matter training that is being demonstrated through printing.  The physics teacher, the math teacher, or the art teacher will use the 3D printing to teach their domain.

Supporting Components

Look to the chemistry department for a fume hood to use for ventilation and a fire-proof enclosure.

Consult with the responsible authorities in the school to determine if special ventilation is required for occasional classroom use.  Whatever they say, it may not be enough because of parents' fear of plastics.

Have spare parts on hand to quickly bring a printer back online.  The ideal spare part is an extra printer -- plus other parts to restore the broken one when it fails.  Consider the latency in the supply chain for replacement parts.

Have a purchasing flow authorized that allows spare parts and operating supplies to be purchased quickly.  In some school systems, it can take months to purchase materials because such purchases are handled on a semester-by-semester basis.  That won't work when you really need a spool of a special color by yesterday.  If necessary, look to PTA-like organizations because they may be able to operate more quickly.

Consider using PLA in the classrooms.  There is friendly web content about PLA being sustainable, "natural", and biodegradable, rather than the ABS stigma of being petrochemical.

If the upper grades have a community service requirement, allow the 3D savvy students to volunteer as 3D printing mentors to the younger grades.

Previous answer

If your question is about what equipment to buy, it would be off topic as being a question of opinion and recommending specific vendor's equipment.  I am answering the question about determining what should be in a proposal.

Like any consideration of acquiring a 3d printing capability, there is some data that must be known before you can determine such a list of equipment.

First, what will the capability be used for?  In a school context, it could be used as part of a curriculum, probably not on the topic of 3d printing, but perhaps something else. Or, it could be part of a school machine shop or hobby shop.  It could be used by a robotics club, a rocket club, or a theater club.  Based on how it will be used at the school, you can determine the next data.

Second, what will be capability be used to print?  Based on that, you can judge which devices meet the need.

Third, based on the "what", and a sense of "how much", you can judge the type and quantity of supplies you will need.  Supplies for the first two or three years should be included in the proposal.

Fourth, estimate the amount of special staff time that should be needed, find a sponsor within the school who will commit to that time, and estimate the funds required to compensate them.

Finally, roll up a sales document, ideally based on a rubric from the granting agency, which included the benefits, allignment with the grant guidelines, and the costs.  Validate the proposal, especially the cost and the staff requirements, with whoever invited you to submit a proposal.

... and remember to actually submit the proposal by the deadline.

Bringing 3d printing into school is a great addition to other educational and engineering tools.  With the right support from the existing school staff and a clear vision of how it will fit into the school activities and existing culture, 3d printing succeed in a school setting.


Any family of plastics / filaments that bend and keep their shape? Not asking for a product recommendation, unless there's only one product out there like this...

I have a need for a flexible filament that retains its deformation, kind of like silly putty. Are there any filaments out there that, after you bend or stretch them, they keep their shape?

I'm sure to some degree flexible filaments do this -- Which filament might be best? Commenters -- what's the scientific term for this?

Actually, metals exhibit this type of flexibility. Do any of the 3D printable metal filaments flex, bend, and keep their shape?

To have a material be "flexible" and retain the shape after the "flexing", you need to apply a stress in excess of the elastic deformation stress.  You will want a material that has the elastic deformation limit that is much lower than the ultimate tensile strength.  Unfortunately, for plastics, this is difficult to find.

Most plastics are made up of tightly bound, long-chain molecules.  Flexing beyond the elastic limit requires breaking these bonds, which introduces weak points in the plastic.  You can see this by bending almost any plastic.  Either it will snap in two, or you will see a light or white colored line along the fold.  The lighter color comes from light scattering from the broken bonds.

"Flexible" structural plastics such as ABS are a copolymer (more than one type of molecule) in which one of the polymers is rubbery.  The rubbery bits provide places within the bulk material where the stress can create strain that doesn't require breaking bonds.

I doubt that any 3D-printer FDM compatible filaments will satisfy your needs.  A filament must keep its shape during printing, if for no other reason than to permit the extruder drive mechanism to apply pressure to the filament.  There are 3D-printable filaments, but they are very elastic and return to their shape when the stress is released.

Some metals can respond to stress with by flowing rather than by elastic strain.  Lead comes to mind.  Someone suggested copper.  There are several degrees of hardness of copper depending on the alloy and the annealing schedule after it was formed.  Copper also work-hardens, becoming harder and more likely break under stress the more the copper flows under stress.


How to draw kossel delta corner in fusion 360? I want to draw kossel delta corner in fusion 360 for 2040 aluminium extrusion like on picture below, but cant find a way to actualy start, I draw 3 side polygon and 20x40mm rectangle but cant go from there, so do you have any suggestion?

I attempted to create your drawing but discovered that an important set of parameters is missing. You have to have either the intersection point of the legs (73.34) from each side or the angle between the legs (73.34) and the base (106.41) to create construction lines. Once you have either of those items, you can construct the remainder of the design using offsets, radii, etc.

More accurately, one other missing item that would be required to complete this design is the placement of the holes at the top (12) relative to some other feature of the design.

Having taken on the challenge of your drawing, I've found that it is necessary to surrender. The angles or the intersection point are critical and without them, no solution comes to my alleged mind.

I have also discovered one additional datum missing. The distance of the bottom truss and the thickness of this truss would be required to provide a more certain solution.

One the flip side, I've found alpha-tech3d.com which appears to include similar parts, rotated 180° with what appears to have all of the necessary data.


Anet A8 filament not coming out Our Anet A8 seems to be working but the filament won't come out of the extruder.  We can manually push it through though.  The gears seem to be working fine and it's warming up.  I have read the other answers on this site but none seem to fix our problem.

From the comments/answers to your main question, the likely culprit is the hobbed wheel not catching the filament firmly enough.

The hobbed wheel I am referring to is the yellowish one at the centre of the picture.  The problem could be due to:

the wheel being of poor quality, with blunt teeth
the wheel being of the wrong diameter (too small)
the spring squeezing the wheel against the filament being too weak
[judging from the picture, I don't own the A8] it could even be that the nut on the lever that is pushed by the spring (top right of the picture) is too far down on the threaded rod, and prevents the lever to move far enough to push effectively.


print quality: z wobble issue Yesterday i replaced the z axis of my diy printer. Now i have some strange waves on the side of my prints. Are the threaded rods bent or could that be a vibration issue? Or is the coupler too stiff?

This looks as if there is a side-to-side force being generated as Z is changed.  Ideally, the X or Y position is determined by the smooth rods, which should bear any force, not the threaded rod.  The threaded rod should cause no motion except upward and downward.

If the rod is bent, but the rod is lightly constrained, then the top, being the free end, will draw a circle.  The bottom is constrained by the motor.  The middle is constrained by the nut, so the top would wander.  If the threaded rod is perfectly straight, and the stepper motor axis and the nut are perfectly aligned, the top would spin without movement.

If the rod is bent and the nut is very tight, there may be a twisting force exerted by the nut, which could cause movement.

Everything is a tradeoff between tightness and looseness, between precision components and the reality of alignment errors.

You asked if the shaft coupling is too tight.  Maybe.  Try removing everything except the motor, coupling, and the threaded rod.  Does the rod fall exactly where the nut would be?  If not, it isn't aligned correctly.  Incorrect alignment can be mitigated by a flexible coupling.  It looks like you are using a Lovejoy coupling with a plaster spider.  Depending on how tightly the spider fits, a Lovejoy coupling can be tight or loose.  I see a lot of machines with the one-piece coupling and a spiral-cut joining region.  THis might be a good alternative, but they tend to take up more space than a lovejoy coupling.

Because Z-axis motion is pretty slow, it is unlikely to be a z-axis vibration issue.  You may have changed the resonant frequencies enough to cause some other problem, but I don't think it is related to the problem in the photograph.


Can I use Araldite to stick PLA to metal frame? I have a PLA base, that the MOSFETs are sitting on. I don't want to drill through the base of the printer, I was thinking of using Araldite to stick the PLA base to the metal frame. The PLA base will be stuck to the base of the 3D printer upside down.

Do you think this will work long term? I don't want the plastic falling off and the MOSFETs hitting the metal base.

Araldite is a brand that refers to a range of structural epoxy, acrylic and polyurethane adhesives. Among the vast number of products marketed under the name are also "metal repair" paste and what seems to be silicone based glues. Depending on what Araldite you have on hand, all of these types can be useful for PLA and any other 3D-printing material, as I had elaborated here. I suggest grabbing either an epoxy or PU variant or some kind of silicone for this use. You should make sure several things though if you go with epoxy or PU:

make a small sample print and clamp down one side, then put a small weight on the other side. Apply the glue in the center of it. If it sags considerably during the bonding, the heat of the glue curing is warm enough to soften the print. If this happens, you should take precautions to prevent it from deforming during the bonding, e.g. not apply too much pressure onto the bond.
The MOSFET can get rather hot. Make sure that the clamp holding the MOSFET still holds the item as it gets hot, as PLA starts to get malleable enough to deform under stress at 50 °C and usually fails quickly at about 100 °C.

Silicone-based glues depend on an area to force ratio to stick but offer a flexible bond that is somewhat thermal resistant and very gap filling.


Best filament to use in high humidity environment? I'm working on a project to design some custom 3D printed parts for an indoor urban farm where the environment has a very high humidity of above 80%. What would be the best filament to use that will be able to handle this conditions. Are there any coatings that I can use to protect the parts from absorbing moisture?

You don't provide information about the part, but in general PETG, ABS, ABS plus/Pro and ASA are not going to have any issue with humidity for a long time. If it's outdoor, avoid ABS and use PETG or ASA.
What is important is to keep the filament dry BEFORE printing. After printing, no problem. In fact, nylon after printing can be wet on purpose to significantly increase impact strength (and reduce tensile strength).
PLA in high humidity environment may lose some of its strength, but there are PLA parts under the rain which hold perfectly for long time, if they are not loaded significantly.


Is it advisable to use additional external fan(s) for printing PLA? I was wondering if adding (an) extra fan(s) (not connected to the printer, but blowing on the print area) could improve the quality of PLA based prints(printing at 210 C). The printer already has a built in fan with a fan shroud that directs air to the hotend, but is it beneficial to add an extra fan in order to get better results on overhangs, fine details, etc, or does extra cooling negatively/not affect print quality?

The printer already has a built in fan with a fan shroud that directs air to the hotend

Unless your printer is defective, it may look like so, but the airflow should really be directed towards the print, not the hot-end.  Cooling the hot-end will at best just waste energy, requiring extra heat to keep it hot, at worst affect your print quality negatively.

  is it beneficial to add an extra fan in order to get better results on overhangs?

The issue with external fans, not connected to the printer, is that you can't properly direct their ariflow, so:

you will direct some of it on the hot-end itself (see above on why that's not good)
you will potentially cool your print unevenly, which - depending from how much, how fast, and what type of filament you are using - may warp your prints

That said, depending from a number of factors, including your ability to position the fans appropriately, you may gain some benefit from them (I saw people doing this to help with PETG stringing), but I would recommend instead to upgrade the part fan of your printer (e.g.: larger diameter, higher RPM) and your duct (better focus on the extruded filament), as these upgrades will have no drawbacks and will perform consistently on each part of the print.

For most common printer, there are printable mods that allow to do both, often available off thingiverse or on dedicated user community forums.


What can cause the build plate to slip? 2 days into a 5-day build, I came home from work and found the build ruined because the build plate had slipped.

I'm using a Raise 3D N2 Plus printer, with the standard glass build plate that comes with it, attached via 4 clips: two stationary ones at the back, and two standard binder clips at the front, which shipped with the printer, which hold the glass build plate plate to the heated surface beneath.

The left-side clip had come off of the heated surface, remaining clipped to the top and bottom of the glass plate, and the whole thing slipped an inch or so.  I immediately canceled the build, and I can start another one, but before I do I'd like to know how this happened and what I can do to prevent it from happening again.

What typically causes the plate clips to come free?  Is there anything I can do about it?  Will adding more clips around the edges help?  I'd really prefer not to ruin more builds if I can help it...

Before two month ago I tested double-sided tape between bed and glass plate. It's awesome and really works perfectly. No more clips, so I'm able to print to the complete area. And no more slipping. Don't use that much tape, just a little bit at the edges should be totally fine.


Why does my PLA filament form a spiral shape and clog my extruder? I'm using brand new PLA filament and am getting frequent clogs in my extruder.

I've had this problem with 2 different filaments from 2 different vendors.

It will be print just fine, then clog up.  It doesn't ever seem to go more than 5 minutes before clogging. When it clogs, and I pull out the filament, it is always twisted in a spiral (helix) shape like a corkscrew.  I have put a picture of 2 clogs below.

I have tried using temperature of 220 all the way down to 180 in increments of 5 degrees and seem to get the same result.  it prints the base layer GREAT on the 70 degree heated bed.  No warping or peeling off.  However, after a few layers, it clogs up and stops extruding.

I am using an HIC PRUSA I3 printer with a single extruder head.  I've only had the printer for a couple weeks.  It had been printing fine with ABS, but the ABS would peel up from the heated bed, so somebody suggested that I use PLA and hairspray.  Hairspray is AWESOME !!  It sticks really well and removes easily as well (once the bed cools a bit).

Please let me know if you've had the same problem with the extruder just clogging up and twisting the filament into a corkscrew shape.

By the way, pay no attention to the black marks on the green filament below.  That's just me marking every half inch or so with a sharpie marker to see if it's still being extruded.

I think I figured out the problem.  Now, to figure out a solution...
Take a look at the image below.  There is a 1 inch tube that goes from the heat element to the heat sink.  This 1 inch of tubing is REALLY hot and larger than 1.75mm.  So, the filament goes through that tube on its way to the head and gets soft in the tube because the tube is so hot all the way down to the head.  When the filament gets hot, it melts and bends and curls which makes it NOT push itself into the heated tip and out onto whatever I'm printing.

The solution would be to find some way to cool this 1 inch shaft between the heat sink and the heated head so that the filament inside of it won't melt.

Any ideas???

Here is a picture of my heat tip.  Note the shaft has about 1 inch sticking out of the heater.  The top of that (above the white arrow) is inside the heat sink.  But 3/4 inches of it are bare and uncovered.  There is also no teflon tube inside the metal throat.

The shape you get is quite easy to explain. It's the shape of the lowest energy possible in your situation. Simple but it doesn't explain the issue... or does it?

It does. The filament cannot be put into the extruder as it becomes plugged. This leads us to some obvious explanations. You can read this post.

So how is that possible that there is enough room to form such corkscrew? My bet is you don't have teflon pipe inside the extruder heatsink. So filament goes into the heatsink and everything is ok until the heatsink itself warms up to the temperature when filament becomes soft, then there is no enough force to push the filament out of the nozzle so above the nozzle filament bends and forms the shape of the lowest energy as said.

Options to check:

Take your extruder apart. See if there is a teflon pipe. If its length is proper.
Check if cooling fan is working well, if it's pushing air to the heatsing but not sucks from the heatsink.

[edit]

Looking closer to your photos I'm pretty sure you don't have such teflon pipe. Your spiral has flat external (virtual) surface... it looks exactly as it would be pushed into hot pipe with diameter of 4mm.

[edit2]
please take a look on the picture


How can I fix First Layer Adhesion with BL Touch - Tevo Tarantula Hope someone might have a view on where to go with this. My prints were coming out pretty good, but since installing a BL Touch to the printer I've been unable to get consistent first layer adhesion.

Printer: Tevo Tarantula
Firmware: Jim Brown Marlin

Settings:

Speed: initial layer 30 mm/s others 60 mm/s
Layer height: tried everything from 0.1 to 0.3 mm
Temperatures

Nozzle temperature: 204 °C (stock hot end and nozzle)
Bed temperature: 60 °C

Printing Sunlu PLA+ filament onto Printbrite on the stock bed using bilinear Leveling (tried both 3 points and 5)

Z homes with the probe in the centre of the bed and the G29 command takes the readings ok.

I've configured Z offset so that you can barely move a sheet of paper between the bed and nozzle when you send G1 Z0. But it still looks like the nozzle is too far away from the bed when printing first layer.

I've managed to get a 20 mm calibration cube out of it, but that is inconsistent (the two cubes in the pictures were printed one after the other with no changes).

Anything bigger than that doesn't stick at the corners and ends up as a ball of spaghetti.

I have the same kind of issues I'm also using Sunlu white filament 210 °C and bed at 60 °C on a CR-10S also original BLtouch v3.1

On some parts of the bed it's okay but in the middle and some corners it's too high and doesn't stick (really annoying). I bought the BLtouch to avoid this kind of issues.

I have printed many things with no issues and with this filament It's making some trouble.

Ok I have solved the issue, the problem is Sunlu pla+ filament.

It seems that their filament is really hard to adhere to bed.

I found on another forum that you need to increase bed temperature up to 70° and head to 220 °c at least for the few first layers and don't go under 215°.

also moving the head a bit lower to skish the filament on bed.

I tried and got much better adhesion.

Hope it will help other people


What is the correct process to make a correct resin casting for jewelry? I have a 3D printer and I have printed some models with castable resin. When I burn one of these models in the oven and then do the metal casting, the surface of the metal piece is not smooth.

I did a test with a pan. I put a model of wax and a model of castable resin to heat in a pan, and the wax model melts, but the resin model don't.

The resin I have is the following:

What is the correct process to make a correct resin casting?

Thanks for your help.

Factually, the correct process is to heat up the mold hot enough to evaporate the positive.

In investment casting the process to remove the wax or plastic positive is called the "Dewax" and "Burnout preheating".

The answer to your question depends on the material you use to generate a negative mold of the positive product. E.g. many silicate based materials require up to about 1100 °C to fully burnout all residue before pouring in the liquid metal.


Marlin Adjusting feedrate I'm using the Marlin firmware (1.1.0-RC7 - 31 July 2016) for a 3d printer. Currently the printing is not perfect due to slight inaccuracies in movements along the x and y axis. I'm trying to change the feedrate for speed along the xy axis whilst the printer is in operation to make sure the printer stops on time and prints accurately.

I have some code for controlling the feedrate but the problem is that I'm not sure where I am supposed make these adjustments. In the configuration.h file I see this code: (lines 742 and 753 )

/*line 742*/ #define HOMING_FEEDRATE_XY (50*60)
/*line 753*/ #define DEFAULT_MAX_FEEDRATE {300, 300, 5, 25}  // (mm/sec)

I'm probably misunderstanding something but it seems like this sets the feedrate to a default value which is the same as the maximum.

If the feedrate changes during printing I'm guessing it would be done in Marlin_main.cpp but I'm not sure which part it actually changes. Can someone point me in the right direction here?

You can change the maximum allowable feedrate in Configuration.h, but the actual feedrate that is used isn't determined by your firmware. The feedrate is specified in the G-Code file. A command like

G0 X10.0 Y15.0 Z3.0 F9000

indicates a move to (10,15,3) at a feedrate of 9000 mm/min. If F is not specified, the last used feedrate is used.

You just have to provide the appropriate G-code commands with the feedrate you want in them. There's no reason to modify the firmware to get a different feedrate.


How do I upgrade (copy settings) from Cura 2.5 to Cura 2.6? On my Mac I've got two versions of Cura installed, in /Applications/Cura250 and /Applications/Cura262.

How can I copy my printer and profile settings from Cura 2.5 to Cura 2.6?

Hope this is all you need.
From the release notes page

  Cura 2.6 - June 20, 2017 Local version folders. When installing a new
  version of Cura, a new local directory will be created to make it easy
  to access old configuration folders and return to old settings if
  necessary.

So if you know where your current 2.5 config directory is, you should be all set.


Heatbed PID vs Bang-Bang - which one is more stressing on components? I recently switched from Bang-Bang to PID controlled bed heating. The stock firmware pulsed On/Off with about 5 seconds each cycle. Now with PID, my bed keeps its temperature much more stable, the frequency is around 7Hz.

Although the total amount of energy used for heating should be less now since the heating is more efficient and doesn't waste energy by cooling down, I am a bit concerned of the fast pulsing of the rather high amperage (around 13 Amps in my case).

So I was wondering, do the faster cycles cause more stress on the components (I am thinking MOSFET on the board and components inside the PSU) or is this negligible? I am particularly curious since this is a rather low budget printer (Anycubic i3 Mega, $350 printer with a generic unbranded PSU) and I don't want to push its limits too much.

The only thing I can observe is a very faint noise with the same frequency as the pulses. Might have been the same on 5 second cycles, I was just not paying attention to it back then.

I'd be very glad if somebody could chime in on this.

Thanks in advance.

The frequency of the cycle shouldn't affect the efficiency as such, however more might be lost due to physical properties.  Fast should cause less stress on the printed part, unless it hits a resonance frequency, which it unlikely.


Anet A8 won't print properly I recently bought the Anet A8 from Gearbest. Everything so far seems in order, but one big problem.

No matter which filament I used (PLA and ABS), the result is always like this:

In the picture there are the PLA and ABS I've been trying to print. What I tried to actually print is a simple arrow.

One of the things that caused it was manually trying to push the filament, because the extruder gear doesn't really push it. It doesn't seem like it's stuck, but it just won't move. Then I move it manually, it does this.

I have tried different methods for the gear to push it and different printing temperatures (first the presets, then PLA 190°C / ABS 240°C) but it does the same thing.

because the extruder gear doesn't really push it. It doesn't seem like it's stuck, but it just won't move.

It looks like stepper issue.

Did you check stepper connections? Maybe there is a loose wire?
Maybe your extruder is assembled incorrectly? Please check google images to see how extruder should be assembled and/or give us some photos of your extruder.
Maybe your printer is setup wrong, there is small potentiometer on mainboard which sets stepper current, I had problems when it was rotated slightly too far. Try commanding your printer to extrude slowly for several seconds and in this time turn pot at least one time (it wraps around) until it starts to extrude (do not move printhead during this, turning this pot WILL make motors skip and crash into home/end). If you don't have problems with other motors, this may not be your issue but is worth checking.
Try homing your axes first, sometimes after startup motors won't work correctly until homing axes.
Try pressing reset once after starting printer.

How to find that pot? It's just to the side of capacitor which is near "Z-Motor2" connector.


CTC i3 Y-axis thin / no filament deposition I have this CTC i3 printer; when I print square test prints, as it moves along the Y-axis back to zero (front). It extrudes lines but very thin or none at all.

But opposite direction along the Y axis is 100 %

I can see a couple of problems in your images:

Your bed is clearly and awfully unleveled. Check on Youtube some manual leveling using a paper.
Though I think your problems will be solved by correct leveling, if not, check this thread where I explain a little bit about E-step and flow rate calibration. Having these parameters right is crucial for a good first layer.
I don't know what you are using for layer adhesion but if after doing steps 1 and 2 the problem persists I would heat up a little bit the bed and change the adhesion material (glue, hairspray).


Fixing Z-Hop Stringing I'm printing a model on my Ender 3 in Mika3D Silk PLA, which (just for reference, this is not atypical) has a stated temperature of 200 °C to 235 °C. I have used this filament before and found it works best for me around 200 °C, but was not the case with this print, and I'm wondering what else I can do to fix this issue.

I have retractions enabled, have lowered the printing temperature to 180 °C and decreased the feed rate significantly, to around 75 %. Both of these adjustments happened gradually, making sure there was no change in stringing between adjustments.

I do have rafts and Z hops enabled in Cura, as previous prints of this model were knocked off the base even after leveling the bed properly, and almost every time a "hop" is performed, some stringing occurs. Is there something I can do in my settings, etc, to fix this issue?

Here is an image of the problem.

Edit: did some extra research and increased my print speed and switched to a better testing model - same issue.

Stringing may depend on sub-optimal retraction settings: when retraction is fast and high enough, the string may be cut and disappear.
You may want to at least try to optimise retraction, at least to exclude that parameter.
There is a tool designed to properly tune retraction:
http://retractioncalibration.com/
What it does is print a tower with multiple retractions with increasing retraction distance around the perimeter. Along the Z axis the retraction speed is increased.
This tool does not include Z-hopping so stringing may be less visible, but at least you can easily visualise the optimal retraction settings. At that point if the optimal settings are much different from what you had, you may want to try your model again to see if it improved.


How to split a model in SketchUp for printing I have a file I want to print, but the problem is that the dimensions that came with the model are just too big to print. I used the Tape Measure Tool on SketchUp, and it came in at a whooping 5.56 meters. Is there a way to split the big model into smaller, printable sized models that can be reassembled after printing?

Thanks Again

SketchUp is likely to not work well for you if your objective is to create a printable STL file in pieces. You would want to determine initially that the un-segmented model is manifold and 3d printer ready. Once that is determined, consider using an alternate program for your chop-up actions.

You do not specify the size of the printer you intend to use, but that is obviously a factor in the segmentation of the model.

I have some experience with Meshmixer, which has an edit feature named "plane cut" which will do as you require. The plane is placed on the model and the options are selected to keep both pieces after the slice is performed.

For a huge model of the type you describe, one would hope you have access to a printer with a one meter print bed or larger, although such printers are rare and of course, expensive.

My printer has a 200 x 300 mm build plate, up to 200 mm high, which would entail substantial segmenting.

If your model is mostly a shell, your segments would have to have wall thickness. It would be best accomplished, again in Meshmixer, by using the hollow or shell features. Those are a bit more challenging to understand, but there are plenty of videos and tutorials specific to creating hollow shells from a solid model. Once the shell is created, segments would be managed easily enough.

I suggested that your segments would "have to have" wall thickness, but it isn't a requirement. Solid segments would be like bricks and you may have a large number of rectangular solids that compose your model. Lego models are difficult or impossible to create with only an outer shell, so the interiors are often solid bricks, but 3d printers are a bit more flexible. Not using solid interiors would save money, of course.

I envision a jigsaw puzzle in three dimensions. Taking a nearly six meter dimension and chopping it into 20 slices multiplied by width and height means a carton of 3d puzzle pieces.


Free UARTs TX and RX pins on CR-10S motherboard I have a WiFi module that only needs two wires connection to work. These are RX and TX pins connected to Arduino or the CR-10S printer board but I don't know if there is any physical or software UARTs TX and RX pins. My goal is to add a Wifi support to the CR-10S printer. Since this is not Arduino and the pins are not labeled, it's hard to tell which TX and RX pins are not being used.

In the image of my motherboard below, any port or pin with line pointing to is considered as being used by the printing software so I can't used them.

There are still ports or pins that are not used. Can any one tell if there is a  TX and RX pin that is not being used from the image above? I need them to communicate with the printer wirelessly.

Not answering the question directly which pins you can use I would like to propose an alternative solution for your problem, to explain why you should not use RX/TX pins.

An alternative solution includes the use of a small single board computer like the Raspberry Pi (RPi) which is connected over USB with the printer board. E.g. the latest range of RPi (Raspberry Pi 3 Model B and B+) have onboard WiFi, or alternatively an older RPi (Raspberry Pi 2) could be used in conjunction with a USB Wifi dongle. On the RPi you could install a print server that talks directly with your printer over USB. One such an application that is frequently used is OctoPprint (the complete installation/image is referred to as OctoPi).

You can then interface with the print server application using a web browser on any mobile device in your network, and if configured as such you could do that potentially from over everywhere over the world. The major advantage is that you then are not communicating G-code over WiFi as you would if you used RX/TX pins. Knowing that WiFi connection adds issues with latency and the possibility of a disconnection during the print, your fail rate would increase over a single board computer approach.

With an RPi the print will continue regardless of the Wifi connection.


Problem with Creality v1.1.4 (Ender 3 Pro) and BLTOUCH v3.0 (removed C7 capacitor) I followed this tutorial on how to set up BLTOUCH v3.0 with my Ender 3 Pro. (v1.1.4 motherboard)

I even removed C7 capacitor on Z axes. And no luck. My BLTouch probe is working, it turns on with the Ender and testing is fine. But it doesn't stop the printer on Z axis while auto homing.

Firmware is from firmware.th3dstudio.com

Any ideas? Any advice is highly appreciated.

My configuration.h file: https://paste.ofcode.org/Z4kKiGwYXC6yQ698t9uaeY

My configuration_backend.h file: https://paste.ofcode.org/34tuX4mG3Ph57jSnT8YByi3

If the probe works, but not on auto homing, it could be that the Z endstop/probe wires are incorrectly wired.

From "The complete BLTouch/3DTouch guide for Creality printers (CR-10/s,Ender 2,Ender 3) for Auto Bed Leveling UPDATED" can be read:

  If you connect your bltouch and when auto homing the sensor doesn’t register
  & the z axis keeps dropping pressing into your bed, turn your printer off,
  disconnect the power and invert the black and white connectors in the z limit
  switch header (put black where white was, put white where black was).

This can also be found in this Marlin issue tracker:

  The Problem was the polarity of the sensor wires was reversed.

If reversing the polarity does not work, move to the original Marlin firmware.


First layer overlap on one side When printing the first layer, the infill overlaps on just one side of my print. Thereupon there's a rough, and a lot higher, surface on the first few millimeters after the wall.

Printer: Arduino Materia 101
Filament: Rec Pla
Temp: 210 degrees

I have tried to troubleshoot it, but I just found information about a problem when the infill isn't close enough to the wall everywhere.

However, for me, the problem is the contrary and just on one side.

This may be a result of an unlevel build plate (OP did not specify if calibration was done at time of writing).

If the area that is overlapping is higher (closer to the nozzle), the filament will be pushed down and around the nozzle as it extrudes in that area. This will result in excess filament overlapping unto other strands on the layer.

Please excuse my lack of artistic skills in paint, but the image below should illustrate what can happen when your build plate is unlevel:

Basically what it's trying to illustrate is that if the nozzle is closer than the expected layer height, the machine will continue to flow as if the nozzle is layer height away. This typically results in a larger layer width because the nozzle is essentially pushing material out of the way.

You will notice that as you go further to the right in the drawing, that your layer may begin to "thin out" because if the nozzle more than a layer height away, the filament "stretches" until it settles on the build plate, resulting in a thinner layer width.

Ideally, your nozzle will be parallel to your build plate at all points along the build space and the "Standoff Distance" will be equal to your layer height. So, you should see the top of your bead of filament at the same height as the bottom of your nozzle.


Apply / find / create a stainless steel coating to apply to a PETG or PLA part to make it react to a magnet Apply / find / create a stainless steel coating to apply to a PETG or PLA part to make it react to a magnet.
My goal is to make a small tubular and conical shapes that can be painted with a stainless steel coating and will react with a magnet.
I know I can buy iron filled PLA but these rust which I want to avoid.  I'm trying to get the magnetic properties of stainless steel (no rusting / reacts to magnets)
I have found videos on how to coat with copper / silver / carbon but I'm looking for stainless steel no rust / magnetic properties.

I'm looking for a "low-cost" solution just for testing.

The surface won't work
The only true-metallic surface treatments I know to be actual metal in large enough amounts to conduct electricity would be leafmetal, akin to leaf gold, and electroplating. However, you can't use the procedures for stainless steels, and even then, the thickness is in the tenth of a µm area and lower. Not only would that be far too thin to adhere a magnet to, it also would be super easy to damage with rubbing.
Filling?
PLA itself does not block magnetism - I have printed a PLA holder for a magnetic GPS device, into which I inserted a simple 0.5 mm steel plate for a magnetic surface with 0.5 mm of PLA acting as the container and seal against water.
If the prints can be done with one end open and no infill or have a dedicated area that a cheap piece of steel can be inserted into, this method can be used too. The only requirement is that there is a cavity on the inside that at some point is accessible. This also can be during the print.
This cavity could either take a piece of shaped steel sheet or be filled with a different magnetic filler, for example, simple iron powder. The powder could be bound in a non-oxidizing polymer, for example, epoxy resin. This method has been used to create cast stators for electro motors. It's not the most efficient, but might work in your application - if your walls are thin enough.
With the correct mixture, such a material can be used to coat or fill the inside with enough magnetic material to give the magnets something to stick to and not rust away - the shell and the resin together would shield the iron from any air that could rust it. Indeed, a quite stuffed Resin-Iron-mix and a strong magnet have been used in 2012 to create furniture by the name of "Gravity Stools" or other art pieces like in this video


Why is the printed object smaller than original model? I am printing a small cylinder, but when the object is finished, it's smaller than the measures I used when create the model.

I used thincerkad to make a simple model, the measures are:

width: 90 mm
height: 2 mm

After the print was done, the actual dimensions were:

width: 70 mm
height: 2 mm

Pictures

First attempt

The smaller object that's in the drawn circle was the first one printed, the dimensions I used were:

width: 110 mm
height: 2 mm

Then I printed it again, and the result was:

Are you using the stock firmware of your printer? Sounds like to me that you have 16 tooth pulleys and your firmware is set to 20 tooth i.e. 80 steps per mm

The calculation behind the steps per mm is $\frac{\text{Steps per Revolution} \times Microsteps}{Teeth \times Pitch}$. The reason for this is that one revolution of the pulley will move the belt the number of teeth times the pitch of the belt. Now take the total number of steps, Steps per Revolution times microsteps, and divide by the distance moved giving the steps per mm.

In $\underline{most}$ hobby 3D printers you have:

1.8 degrees steppers which equals $\frac{360}{1.8}=200$ steps per revolution , Less common is 0.9 degrees steppers $\frac{360}{0.9}=400$
GT2 is the most common belts now which have a pitch of 2mm
The two most common pulleys are 16 tooth and 20 tooth,
Depending on what stepper drivers and or configuration you have

A4988 $\to$ 16 microsteps
DRV8825 $\to$ 32 microsteps
Trinamic $\to$ 16-256 mircosteps

In your situation I believe you have a 1.8 degree stepper with 16 microsteps, a gt2 belt, and a 16 tooth pulley. Which means your XY steps per mm should be $\frac{200 \times 16}{16 \times 2} = 100$. While your firmware is expecting 20 tooth pulleys, yielding $\frac{200 \times 16}{20 \times 2} = 80$. This would result in your prints being $\frac{100-80}{100} = 20\%$ smaller, which explains your results with the circles.

Generalizing, the steppers, microsteps, and pitch don't matter. To go between 16 tooth pulleys to 20 tooth, multiply by $0.8=\frac{16}{20}$. From 20 tooth to 16 tooth, multiply by $1.25=\frac{20}{16}$.


Project help, printing a Neopixel enclosure to secure to a car rear windscreen I haven't purchased a 3D printer yet, I've been working on the software and electronics for my project and now I'm about ready to get a printer, haven't decide on which yet.

Recommendations welcome.

My project will put 3 rows of Neopixels on the windscreen of my car, attached to the top inside.  I intend to print the container in sections that will slow together.

I want to allow for the curvature of the windscreen in the design of the container and this is my question, I want to design a container that will hold 3 rows of Neopixel strips, thats the easy part, I want the container to fit neatly against the windscreen with no gaps, how do I work out the curve of the windscreen so I can put this onto the enclosure ready for printing?

The enclose will be as wide as the read windscreen and split into printable sections that will slot together for installation.

The car this is going into is an Audi A5 2012.

There's a handy tool for replicating curves that use a series of plastic or metal fingers in a sliding mount. One presses all the fingers to one side, then presses the bracket to the desired surface until all fingers are in contact. The opposite side now represents the measured curve and can be traced into a modeling program.

For your purposes, that is unlikely to work, as the tool is perhaps six inches long, far too short to span your windscreen.

Consider the following:

Attach a string to each edge of the windscreen or wedge a thin rod from one side to the other. This provides you with a straight line reference. Measure as nearly as possible to perpendicular from the reference string to the windscreen surface. I have a laser measuring device that has 1/16" or 1 mm accuracy above certain distance, which would not work well in this case as you approach zero at the edges.

Start in the center, record your measurement, and move an appropriate distance outward. I suggest you need only approximately 20-30 mm spacing as you are collecting points on a curve, which are likely to be relatively uniform and easily reproduced in software.

Your graph now has zero, zero on the left, and say 750 mm, 40 mm on the right, with matching numbers in the middle. On real paper, turn it into a graph, or use a suitable vector editing software such as Inkscape and duplicate it there.

Depending on the shape of your window, you may have to replicate the process at different heights in order to get a proper representation of the curve of the glass.

Once you have the dots, run a Bezier curve through the dots. The resulting like can be extruded or otherwise converted into the segments necessary for your 3D printing project.


What is the influence of a lower BAUDrate? I am using a BAUDrate of 115200 since I cannot make a connection to my printer with the advised 250000 rate. Are there any downsides or limits I reach earlier given by the lower BAUDrate?

Baud rate is the rate at which information is transferred in a communication channel, given as a number of bits per second (bps). So a baud rate of 250000 is capable of transferring a maximum of 250000 bits per second (31250 bytes/s). When working with serial ports, both ends of the communication line will have to "talk" with the same speed - the same baud rate - to understand each other.
So when using a baud rate of 11520 you will theoretically be limited to transfer data with about half the speed of 25000. If you are transferring large amounts of data, this might be a limiting factor for your application, but if you are not pushing the limits of your serial port, it probably won't matter at all.


Ender 3 V2 USB connection powers screen, but isn't detected by PC or Pi I am trying to add an Octopi to my Ender 3 V2 but the Pi cannot detect the printer at all. So I try to connect to Windows and same result. The display turns on and is functional, but when checking device manager there is nothing to be found. I am using the 2.0.7 Marlin firmware on the machine and have tried about 6 different USB cables/other ports.

After trying about 10 USB cables I finally found one that would work with the Ender and Pi. Specifically, it was my Logitech MX Ergo USB cable.


First layer - not even infill I'm using Repetier and Slic3r and it is printing a gap between the perimeter and infill on the first layer.
Also, the infill is lifting (as in photo).
Any advise?

You're not sticking to your bed. Adjust your bed height. You are too far.
Otherwise you are going too fast and or too hot.

Calibrate the bed. Reduce speed. Then adjust temps.

Also could be material contamination

See this link for a visual troubleshooting.

http://reprap.org/wiki/Print_Troubleshooting_Pictorial_Guide

http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide

In addition use some gluestick. That will often solve these issues. Last but not least add a raft if it continues. Or just ignore it. My bet is temp is too hot. I also like to smash my first layer, but not everyone likes that technique as it causes elephant footing.


What should I pay attention to after taking a 3d printer from extended storage So I have a self build Mendel Reprap style 3d printer.

I've not used it in sometime after moving house but I'm looking to use it again. What should I pay attention to before calibrating and running it again?

The main thing that might have changed is the bed level, so you should level the bed again. If your printer is sufficiently sturdy, this may not even be necessary (but this should become apparent during your first print). The remaining calibration parameters (steps per mm for all axes, PID tuning, etc...) should not have changed.

You should perhaps also check for any bolts/nuts/cables that might have come loose during transport. This is not particularly likely to have happened, unless something was loose to begin with.


Smooth finish on large parts I would like to print a vase that has a width/length/height footprint of 100x100x200 mm, and the surface finish is of particular interest to me. Ideally, I would like to do a minimum of sanding/XTC-3D coating after printing, if any.

What would be the best material to work with?

From the printer...
Non-post-processed surface smoothness of a print is mainly a function of the Layer height during print: it is smoother if one reduces the height of the steps taken between the layers. A very good FDM machine can achieve down to 0.05 mm layer height, but 0.1 mm is what most hobbyist machines can achieve if well dialed in. SLA printers cure resin in layers down to 25 micron reliably and some can get down to 12.5 micron - a quarter of the best achievable FDM.
Reducing the layer height in FDM comes at the cost of mainly three factors:

Print time increases roughly antiproportional to the layer height. 0.1 mm is about double the print time of 0.2 mm and so on.
The prints tensile strength gets reduced by increasing the number of layers increases, creating additional possible weakpoints.
The thinner the layer, the more susceptible the print is to errors like clogged nozzles or variations of the filament thickness.

SLA printers are not affected by the print strength loss and the errors from clogged nozzles and can print entirely clear material without air inclusions. They are affected by the print time increase though. Usually, SLA prints come out of the vat covered in residual resin and curing them in the proper post-processing method results in this resin smoothing over the surface perfectly.
Simple Postprocessing...
Many prints can easily be post-processed.
Sanding
PLA and ABS can be easily sanded down to somewhat smooth, but you'll need to spend time and muscle grease or go electric. A sander with 300+ grit can help a lot. If you have a rotational body, you could sand the vase on a lathe.
Putty
A plastic putty could be smeared over the stepped surface to smooth it and then sanded smooth. I personally like Valejo plastic putty, as it doesn't shrink, but Tamya putty also is a good alternative, bonding strong.
Primer-Filler
Independent of the base material, using a spray coating can easily fill in the notches and crannies left behind during printing. Printing in 0.15 mm and giving it a short spray coat of primer-filler twice, sanding over rough spots between did a good job of smoothing prints for me.
Vapor Smoothing
If you chose ABS, you could use Acetone vapor to smooth over the surface of a print in almost an instant. This can achieve Super smooth results with tall layer heights, as you practically melt the plastic over, but it comes at the loss of small surface details.
Exposure time is the limiting factor here: the longer the exposure to the acetone vapor, the more the surface is smoothed and the less details remain. Think of exposure time like running the smooth filter in blender once or twice each second.

Similarly, ethylacetate or propylene carbonate could be used for PLA prints, though timing might differ from the well established "a couple of seconds" for acetone vapor. Note that these two chemicals are much more expensive.
Costs
Checking prices, I was quoted about 90 €/l for (chemical grade) Ethyl Acetate and 130 €/l for (chemical grade) Propylene Carbonate via a laboratory supply. Useable Acetone (not chemical grade) comes about 3.70 €/l in home depot. For comparison: chemical-grade Acetone comes with a price tag of about 50 €/l.
Considering that ABS filaments and PLA filaments typically price similarily,  ABS+Acetone Vapor is the least costly chemical Vapor smoothing.


Low Filament Sensor for Creality CR-10? I have been playing with my CR-10 for about a month now and I was wondering if there is a low filament sensor available for the CR10.

I found this listing on Amazon, Creality 3D Printer CR-10 S4 with Filament Monitor Dual Z Rod Screws 400x400x400mm, which is for the larger model which has a built in low filament sensor, and I was wondering if the sensor could be bought separately and installed on my CR-10.

Alternatively, I have had a look around and only found this, XCSOURCE 1.75mm 3D Printer Filament Detection Sensor Module Filament Run Out Pause Monitor for 3D Printer DIY Kit TE720. By looks of it, it needs to be attached to the main board in the control box.

Can anyone tell me if this would be compatible?

TL;DR
You need to have the version 2.x controller board (and the associated CR-10S firmware) to use the filament sensor. If you do not then you will need to upgrade your controller board.

Board Comparison
For an excellent breakdown of the boards, read Creality CR-10 and CR-10S Models – What Printer do you have.
There appear to be two basic model versions of controller board, which use different firmware:

Controller board v1.1.2 (or v1.1.3 with additional filter capacitor) which uses CR-10 firmware. These have a small Atmel ATmega1284P chip, and one Z-axis stepper connector;
Controller board v2.0 (or v2.1 with extra fan ports) which uses CR-10S firmware. These have a large Atmel ATmega2560 chip, and two Z-axis stepper connectors.

See the section Board examples at the bottom of this answer for a visual comparison of the two boards.
It is the v2.x (CR-10S) board that has the filament detector, which uses the X+ endstop connector:

To quote part of the page:

Please make sure you know what printer you have. There are 8 DIFFERENT models from Creality. There are 2 different boards across these models. The easiest way to identify what one you have is if it has a filament sensor or not. If it does then you have a CR-10S machine. If it does not then it is a CR-10.
Just because you have a CR-10 S4 or CR-10 S5 that does NOT make it a CR-10S.
The S4 and S5 sizes come available with either board versions. Again the main way to tell is if you have a filament sensor from Creality or not. Whether you have Dual Z or not does NOT matter. What matters is what board is in the enclosure.
Typically every CR-10S board came with a filament sensor. So if you don’t have a filament sensor then it is the CR-10 and you need use the CR-10 firmware. However we have seen some CR-10 Mini machines ship with CR-10S boards. Use the below pictures of the boards that are in the wild to identify what model you have. The important thing is to use the correct firmware for the board that is in your machine.

Separate upgrade
With respect to the first question, you would be best off contacting Creality directly, via their customer support, to see if the sensor is available separately. This would probably make for the least painful method of implementing the filament sensor.
Alternatively, there is this kit, Creality CR-10S Upgrade Kit, for $120:

Best Upgrade Kit for your Creality CR-10 3D Printer contains Dual Z axis for Stability in 3D Prints & Filament Monitoring Alarm Protection (Sensor) which alerts you when the filament has ran out or broken for Smart 3D Printing

There seems to be a dual-Z option, for an extra $80

Hacked solution
For the second question, the XCSOURCE 1.75mm 3D Printer Filament Detection Sensor Module Filament Run Out Pause Monitor for 3D Printer DIY Kit TE720,

the instructions state that it is designed principally for Lerdge control boards:

Instruction:

When you are using a Lerdge brand motherboard: The green light on the motherboard will turn off when the filament runs out, the
motherboard will stop printing until you supplement the filament and
continue printing. (Please connect to the M-sensor Interface)
When you are using other brand motherboard: The Detection Module uses the level transition detection method. While there still have
filament in the module, the detection port shows as high level; when
there is no filament in the module, the detection port will transform
to low level as "Filament Run Out Command" which will stop the
printing, so you will have time to supplement the filament and
continue printing.

So, it is not particularly clear as to whether it will work with your board - for it to do so, your board would need to have:

A compatible input (i.e. X+ endstop);
The compatible firmware (CR-10S), and;
Use compatible logic levels (i.e. active LOW to shutdown printing).

If not, then given point #2, it would appear to require additional external logic, or microcontroller, to sense the transition to LOW and then shutdown the printer.
For example, this chap on Thingiverse, Cr-10 Filament Sensor Bracket & Tutorial, states that they bought a sensor off eBay, that looks similar, and they provide a printable mount and instructions on how to use it with a CR-10. However, it is not a standalone affair as shown in the CR-10 S4 - because an additional Raspberry Pi and OctoPrint is required.
To use this particular sensor with your board, you would need to:

See if which controller board you have - either the CR-10 or the CR-10S compatible board (see Board Comparison above). If it is the CR-10S therefore it has the compatible input (X+ endstop), and firmware, needed for the filament sensor,

Enable the use of the sensor, if necessary, in the firmware (either by the UI if possible or uploading new firmware) and;

Check whether the CR-10 controller board uses active LOW to detect a lack of filament (or again, this may be a UI, or firmware, setting)
You could test this last point yourself, by applying a LOW level voltage (i.e. grounding) to X+ endstop input on the control board (after checking the UI/firmware for appropriate settings), and see if that halts/pauses the print. If not, try a HIGH level (5 V). If it is active HIGH then you simply need to use an inverter (i.e. 4069), between the sensor and the X+ endstop connector.

Board examples
There are two principle board options, v1.x and v2.x, the latter has dual Z stepper motor connectors and the former does not .For example:
Version 1.x, for CR-10 firmware - Motherboard Controller DIY Creality 3D® CR-10 / CR-10S 3D Printer CR-10 Upgrade Control Board12V (CR-10S Mainboard)

Version 2.x (2.1 in this case) with Dual Z stepper connectors, for CR-10S firmware -  Luxnwatts CR-10S Mainboard Replacement Controller Board Upgrade V2.1 Motherboard For Creality S4 S5 3D Printer


Is possible print this level of detail? I'm new at 3D Printing. I made a model of what I want to print using blender, but it's really small with a little system that must be very precise to work.

What I have is like a hollow cylinder with a diameter of 11mm, and a thickness of 1mm. This goes inside a counter part, that is carve with the cylinder shape, but with a little extra gap so it can rotate like an axis. Maybe this picture explains better:

And this should be the front view of the counter part:

So, I need to know if it's possible to print that cylinder hard enough to work as an axis. And what should be the gap size between the cylinder and the counter part's hole to rotate properly? If it's is like 0.05mm, can I print that level of detail with a 3D printer too?

What hardware and material should I use to do this?

Thanks in advance.
Sorry for bad english, I hope you understand!

EDIT:

(6mm is the depth of the hole)

It is definitively possible to do what you want, but your questions are samewhat problematic:

  So, I need to know if it's possible to print that cylinder hard enough to work as an axis.

"hard enough" is a mysterious quantity.  What is the intended application? The load of the axis, the rotation speed, the medium in which the part will be in, its operating temperature... they all affect the answer.

  And what should be the gap size between the cylinder and the counter part's hole to rotate properly?

Reading at the question and the comments, I think you may have the wrong representation model in your mind.  There are four different concepts at work here:

Accuracy is the maximum dimensional variation between parts.
Tolerance is the amount of random deviation or variation permitted for a given dimension.
Allowance is a planned difference between a nominal or reference value and an exact value.
Clearance is the intentional space between two parts.

So: what you want to achieve for the object to rotate is to have at least some clearance once you have the parts printed.  Therefore, you want to design your part with an allowance which is at least as much as the accuracy.

Note that a machine cannot produce parts with a tighter tolerance than its accuracy.  So you must design your part with a tolerance equal or greater than your printer accuracy.

The correct number will therefore be entirely dependant from the specific printer you will be using.  You can find out the specific accuracy of a printer by printing a tolerance test (I know, I know... why isn't it called "accuracy test"?)

See this unrelated answer - from wich I took the above definitions - for learning more about the above and a concrete example.

  If it's is like 0.05mm, can I print that level of detail with a 3D printer too?

I hope it is now clear why this question makes no sense: clearance is a variable which depends  from accuracy (and the application), not the other way around.

  I can't add so much gap because I have really limited space

This comment too is incorrect: the "gap" (clearance) can be very very small.  You have to have the correct allowance in your design, and allowance will not intrinsically make a part larger.

  What hardware and material should I use to do this?

Again: this is entirely dependent from your application (load, operating temperature, orientation, speed...)

A consumer-grade FDM printer (easy accessible, cheap and cheap to operate) will allow you to print a rotating part, a SLA/DLP printer (less common, toxic resins, more expensive to operate) will allow to print the same part with different materials and tighter tolerances...

  I don't worry about breaking, but it cannot be flexible

Again: without an explanaton of the intended use (or the numbers associated to it) it's impossible to answer this comment conclusively.  Resins tend to harden to more rigid solids, but you have thrown around tolerances as small as 0.05mm in your writing, and over 12mm of axis, that is a deviation of less than 0.5% from "perfectly straight".  I'm hard pressed to think you will find a printable material with such a rigidity.


Replacing RAMPS 1.4 for 1.6 During the assembly of my printer, I accidentally shorted the RAMPS 1.4 board, looking for a replacement I found the RAMPS 1.6 which would eliminate the need for a MOSFET power module.

My question is, could I simply replace the RAMPS 1.4 for the 1.6 or should I make any other modification?

My printer is a Prusa i3 Graber Clone running Marlin

RAMPS 1.6 is very similar to RAMPS 1.4. Most, if not all, of the changes are hardware improvements, without making the core functionality different. Looking at the incremental changes between versions:
To quote from RepRapWiki: RAMPS 1.5

The RAMPS 1.5 is a variation of the popular RAMPS boards that, like
all other RAMPS boards, is plugged into an Arduino Mega for operation.
The layout of the RAMPS 1.5 is virtually identical to that of the
RAMPS 1.4. The only real difference between the two are the MOSFETs
and the fuses.

To quote from RepRapWiki: RAMPS 1.6

The RAMPS 1.6 is the second RAMPS iteration released by
BIQU/BIGTREETECH. It replaces the original green power connector with
a pair of screw terminals, adds a larger heatsink over the MOSFETS,
and has a larger bed MOSFET. It maintains the surface-mounted fuses
and flush MOSFETS of the RAMPS 1.5.
Also, the positions of the D1 and D2 diodes have been swapped from the
positions in RAMPS 1.4, the D1 diode is now the diode closest to fuse
F2. The same is true for RAMPS 1.5, also manufactured by
BIQU/BIGTREETECH.

So, in short, yes, the RAMPS 1.6 should be a direct plug in replacement for the RAMPS 1.4.
That said, you may be able to salvage your RAMPS 1.4, if you can locate the part that has given up the "magic smoke". It could just be a blown capacitor, or diode. There have been a number of questions relating to that, so it might be worth searching for answers here, on SE.3DP1.
It is probably also worth reading RAMPS 1.4, 1.5 or 1.6?

Additional links
An interesting video, where a variety of RAMPS 1.4 boards are compared, is the first of a series, RAMPS series 1 of 5 - Intro and board comparisons - although beware the loud music...
There is also a RAMPS 1.6 Plus, and a RAMPS 1.4.2 which might be worth considering. I wrote up about these, briefly, (disclosure) in my personal blog, a couple of years ago: 3D Printer control boards.

Footnote
1 Such as How drastic is reversing the polarity of the power supply to a RAMPS board?, which might be relevant in your case.


Ender 3 displaying wrong temperatures for hotend and bed I've had issues with my hot end and decided to replace the whole assembly with this.  After the replacement, my printer started reading about 135/185 °C for the hot end and bed are both at room temperature. It also gives the "Heating Failed" error message. Printer halted when I tried to heat it.

Things I've tried:

Checked the wiring, the thermistors are reading about 110k and 10k at end of the wires.
Tried updating the firmware with a few different thermistor settings. Only the static (dummy) ones worked (reading a static value of 25/100 °C)
Tried with old thermistor and reading stayed at 135/185 °C.

I'm suspecting something wrong with the motherboard but was hoping I could figure out what's wrong before going ahead and buying a new board. Would appreciate any thoughts/suggestions.

In troubleshooting the issue, I tried disconnecting one/both of the thermistors at a time and the reading stayed unchanged. Now thinking I might've somehow broken the board when I was disassembling it.

Upon receiving a new motherboard, that fixed the bed temperature reading. The hot end is now reading -14 °C with the thermistor plugged/unplugged. Took the resistances on the old and new hot end thermistors and couldn't get reading from either. So turned out both the stock motherboard and my hot end thermistors were not working. Ordered new thermistors and that should fix the problem.

I got my printer fixed and am posting steps I took for people with similar problems in the future.

Initial problem:

After I replaced my entire heating unit and reconnected the wires, my printer started to read about 135/185 °C for the nozzle and bed at room temperature. It gives the "Heating failed, printer halted, please reset" error when I tried to heat the hot end and bed.

Troubleshooting steps:

Checked the resistance of the thermistors. Both the hot end and bed were about 100k.
Reflashed Marlin with different thermistor settings. Only the static (dummy) ones worked (reading a static value of 25/100 °C). All the other settings were giving very high readings at room temperature.
Replaced the mainboard. This fixed the bed reading but hot end was still not working. Checked the hot end thermistor again at this point and couldn't get any values, which suggests the thermistor wire was broken somewhere.
Replaced the hot end thermistor and that fixed all the issues.

So what I think happened was that I messed up the board when I was reconnecting the heating unit. Then at some point after I first measured the thermistor resistance, the hot end thermistor broke. Replaced the thermistor and that solved the issue.


How to fill these squares easily I have an array with holes that I have to fill with different materials. My question is there is an easy way to fill them directly? I tried array, array draft and it is annoying to adjust them. In Blender, it easy to select the vertices and fill. Maybe it is a stupid question, but I am not really an expert.

If you are asking for print then it is yes with FDM (fused deposition modeling) with multiple extrusion you can fill with different material easily. But if you are trying to change the material in your digital design then you need to work on every hole in the array, especially with FreeCAD. If you find any, please update here.


Photon S DLP first layers adhere but support will not Recently I changed the FEP bottom of my Anycubic Photon S and I'm having problems with prints now. The bottom layer sticks super well, but none of the supports or the prints do.

I've tried tensioning the vat, releveling, and changed supports of the structure. Nothing works and I don't know how to proceed.

I also tried tightening all of the screws on the build plate, but still errors.

I'm using Anycubic black resin, 8 bottom layers at 90 seconds, 7 second exposure with 2 seconds off.

The image shows a failed print example:

I finally reached out to anycubic and their tech support answered and was awesome!

They had me update the firmware, tighten the fep film more ( instead of using the small lever I used the big lever this time), then level the bed again. I printed their test print and it worked!

After that I looked at their parameters and I saw that mine were very different. The main differences was in the lift distance, speed and retract speed. I only had 1 mm lift distance and much slower.

Here are the correct ones in the end


How to print an overhanging arc I am designing a part that has to clamp around a 11mm bushing, and due to other design constraints, it has to be printed with a semicircle-shaped overhang:

This is proving very challenging to print. Two copies of this part have to clamp tightly around the bushing in all directions. Support material is rather hard to remove from the very top of the arc (where the overhang angle is the highest) and I often end up removing just too little of the support material (so the part doesn't fit around the bushing) or too much (and the bushing can wobble around).

Is there any way I can modify the design of this part (bearing in mind that it absolutely has to be printed in this orientation) to make it more tolerant of my inaccuracy when removing supports, or is there perhaps some way to manually design supports that are easier to remove (Simplify3D and Cura both don't quite cut it)?

You could modify it as shown in my picture.  I added lines tangent to the 11mm circle and in this example I set them to a 40 degree overhang which should be fine, the top line is also tangent to the circle and in my experience it's easier to bridge a small section rather than do a bunch of small overhangs like an arc would do.  You still end up with quite a bit of contact but also easy to print.

I did something similar to this on my printer where the smooth rods enter horizontal holes.