text:
How do I diagnose a problem with electronic bricks and motors?
My children and I recently assembled the 42030 RC VOLVO L350F Wheel Loader (aside: with the 1,600 pieces and time investment, this set will likely survive to the heat death of the universe intact because nobody wants to take a day or two to reassemble it into something else).
As soon as we took it out of the box we knew it likely had a problem because none of the motors worked when we plugged them together and put batteries in the battery pack and remote controls. We built it anyway (that sucker took around 7 hours to build between the two of us that stayed awake), knowing that if a part is defective we could probably cross-ship a replacement from LEGO.
Now that it is assembled, it still does not work. We have double-checked everything according to the instructions. When we use the remote, nothing happens on the assembled set. Asking the Internet brings up plenty of positive reviews, but nothing about problems with this set.
How do we troubleshoot which part is defective, or if there is an error on our part? Ideally, such advice would be applicable to any set that has motors, battery packs, and remote controls.
What we have verified so far:

The battery pack lights up when we turn it on. The motors beep and spin for a brief moment, indicating they are receiving power through the receivers.
Unplugged and replugged everything.
I tested both remotes and the battery pack with a multimeter, verifying correct voltage and amperage across the two contacts on the end. The batteries are not the problem: these are brand-new batteries that expire in eight years, and they output nominal volts and amps.
We tried different communication channels between the remotes and receivers.

I have not been able to verify function without the battery pack or receivers because I am not sure how much current to apply to an individual motor, nor do I wish to experiment and make the situation worse.
What else can I try before I contact LEGO and spend a week or more waiting for replacement parts?

I haven't ever used Power Functions remote-control elements, so I can't give you a complete answer from experience, but here are two simple tests:

Connect the battery box directly to each motor, leaving out the remote control receiver entirely. The motors should spin when the light on the battery box is lit, and the slide switch should allow reversing the direction.
Caveat: Looking at the parts list for 42030, one of the motors is a “servo” motor. I don't know exactly how to expect it to behave when connected directly to a battery box, but LEGO's description suggests it should at least move.
Use any camera with a live view or video recording (not an optical viewfinder), such as that on any smartphone, to look at the transmitter while you press buttons. The infrared signal should be visible as a purplish-white dot.
(This occurs because most cameras are more sensitive to near-infrared light than our eyes are, unless they have unusual filtering. This also can be seen with any infrared TV remote control.)

On electrical testing:

I have not been able to verify function without the battery pack or receivers because I am not sure how much current to apply to an individual motor,

This suggests that you are confused about how electric circuits work. Outside of specific electronic circuits, you do not choose how much current to apply; the load (here the motor) expects a specific voltage and then draws current according to its needs. (For a motor, the current depends on how much load is on the shaft: a motor not connected to anything will draw much less current than one which is stalled.)
(If you're actually referring to a current-limited power supply, then never mind.)
The voltage for Power Functions is 9 V (or somewhat less), as indicated by the 6 cells in the battery box.
You should be able to apply 7-9 V to the two closer to the middle contacts of the motor's plug (for the simple motors, not the servo motor) and get it to spin. However, it will be tricky to make a connection without the special plug, so if you attempt this be very careful not to short out your power supply. I would suggest not trying it; the battery box should be a reliable power source.
Instead, check the outputs of the battery box with a voltmeter. Between the outer two contacts you should find around 9 volts (for alkaline batteries) or 7.2 volts (for NiMH rechargeable batteries). Between the middle two contacts should be the same voltage, but it will reverse polarity depending on the slide switch.
(Try not to short out the contacts by letting your meter probes touch each other, but if you do, it won't be disastrous: LEGO battery boxes have overcurrent protection. If you do trip the protection then the output will be low or zero for a while before it resets.)

I did hook the motors directly to the battery box and they worked. The receivers also light up when they have power. The issue is probably the remotes.

This specific problem turned out to be something different as I mention in my answer, but your answer is better for the general "how do I troubleshoot this?" question so yours will still be the accepted one.

The issue turned out to be a known problem with the battery terminals in the remotes. Certain batteries would not make enough contact with the positive terminals due to a plastic piece in front of them. I did the following to fix it:

Removed the battery covers from the remotes.
Removed all of the AAA batteries.
Inserted a small flathead screwdriver behind each of the positive terminals and bent them toward the battery cavity slightly.
Put everything back together.
Chased the cats around the living room with the now-functioning LEGO set.

I did this after reading this question and its answers on Amazon.

May folding a small piece of aluminium foil between the battery and the + pin work too?


text:
Is there a changelog for any firmware updates on an EV3 brick?
When a firmware update is released for the Mindstorms EV3 brick, are there usually any changelogs for them explaining what's been added or changed? If so, where can they be found?

Update:
I have found a changelog in the firmware source code available on the download page at http://mindstorms.lego.com. The file is lms2012/doc/Implementation. Here is the history since v1.03 which shipped with the first retail EV3s.

/******************************************************************************
 * APPLICATION VERSIONS
 *****************************************************************************/
/*! \page applicationversions Application Versions
 *
 *  This section describes the relative changes from previous version
 *
 *
 *\version lms2012_v109D
 *
 *-# As v109H but telnet enabled with password "Just a bit off the block!"                    \n
 *
 *
 *\version lms2012_v109
 *
 *-# As v1081 but version changed to 1.09                                                     \n
 *
 *
 *\version lms2012_v1081
 *
 *-# Telnet disabled                                                                          \n
 *
 *
 *\version lms2012_v108
 *
 *-# Support for edimax added                                                                 \n
 *
 *
 *\version lms2012_v107
 *
 *-# As v1066 but version changed to 1.07                                                     \n
 *
 *
 *\version lms2012_v1066
 *
 *-# ISSUE 4330 - sub call aliases block local issue UN-fixed                                 \n
 *
 *
 *\version lms2012_v1065
 *
 *-# Bluetooth bundle changed to "BA9Q76VTQG" "com.lego.education.ev3"                        \n
 *
 *
 *\version lms2012_v1064
 *
 *-# Bluetooth bundle changed to "BA9Q76VTQG" "com.lego.edu.ev3"                              \n
 *
 *
 *\version lms2012_v1063
 *
 *-# Bluetooth bundle changed                                                                 \n
 *
 *
 *\version lms2012_v1062
 *
 *-# Bluetooth bundle changed for test                                                        \n
 *
 *
 *\version lms2012_v1061
 *
 *-# "Brick Name" app implemented                                                             \n
 *
 *
 *\version lms2012_v106_140502
 *
 *-# As v105a but version changed to 1.06                                                     \n
 *
 *
 *
 *\version lms2012_v105a_140327
 *
 *-# IIC issue with automatic update blocking access fixed in "d_iic.c"                       \n
 *-# UART protocol escape future issue fixed in "d_uart.c"                                    \n
 *
 *
 *
 *\version lms2012_v105H_140211
 *
 *-# As v104x but version changed to 1.05                                                     \n
 *
 *
 *
 *\version lms2012_v104x_140206
 *
 *-# ISSUE 4330 - sub call aliases block local issue fixed                                    \n
 *-# Number of memory handles rised from 250 to 500 (MAX_HANDLES = 500)                       \n
 *-# Color sensor mode 4 data checksum issue fixed                                            \n
 *
 *
 *\version lms2012_v104w_140110
 *
 *-# Test app "Sensors" changed to use "Modes" instead of "Views" in mode change limit        \n
 *-# opINPUT SETUP - IIC third party sensor read/write issue fixed                            \n
 *-# opINPUT READY_IIC implemented                                                            \n
 *-# More documentation about sensor reading (see \ref thirdpartydevicedesign "Third Party Device Design Guidelines ") \n
 *
 *
 *\version lms2012_v104v_131205
 *
 *-# Release of version 104u for testing                                                      \n
 *
 *
 *\version lms2012_v104u_131205
 *
 *-# Corrected issue when connecting to several devices using bluetooth (c_bt.c)              \n
 *-# opUI_DRAW VALUE bug fixed (negative figures)                                             \n
 *-# opUI_DRAW VIEW_UBIT bug fixed (negative figures)                                         \n
 *-# opINPUT_DEVICE INSERT_TYPE implemented                                                   \n
 *-# opINPUT_DEVICE SET_TYPEMODE implemented                                                  \n
 *-# Corrected issue if trying to search for BT devices and allready connected to 7 devices   \n
 *-# Corrected issue if get remote bluetooth name fails in a bluetooth search                 \n
 *-# Bluetooth connect is not called if create paired device fails                            \n
 *-# Bluetooth connection attempt actively rejected if user presses X on the UI               \n
 *
 *
 *\version lms2012_v104t_131108
 *
 *-# Corrected remote bluetooth name issue                                                    \n
 *-# Corrected brick crashing if number of motors diff from 2 in sync'ed motor cmds           \n
 *-# Corrected filetransfer between SD cards in bricks - Folder type issue                    \n
 *-# Corrected filetransfer between SD cards in bricks - Filehandle issue                     \n
 *-# opFILE CLOSE_LOG changed to free up handle when logging in memory                        \n
 *-# SD card back key bug fixed                                                               \n
 *-# ISSUE 2636 - "Brick Program" app - test for attached sensor                              \n
 *-# ISSUE 3226 - opMATH MOD8, MOD16, MOD32 zero bug fixed                                    \n
 *-# ISSUE 3492 - opUI_DRAW LINE and RECT hang bug fixed                                      \n
 *-# ISSUE 3565 - Brick Hang with 3rd party sensor bug fixed                                  \n
 *-# Added TIInit_6.6.15.bts to the filesystem to support 1325A version bluetooth             \n
 *-# Special exception text added to headers: "lmstypes.h", "lms2012.h" and "bytecodes.h"     \n
 *-# opINPUT_DEVICE INSERT_TYPE implemented for test                                                            \n
 *-# IIC 3rd party hang and data instability issue fixed                                                        \n
 *
 *\version lms2012_v104H_130531
 *
 *-# Bluetooth transfer folder error fixed in cComCreateBeginDL                               \n
 *-# First release for AFOL                                                                   \n
 *
 *

Original answer:
The LEGO Group has not been publishing changelogs for the EV3 firmware. You should call customer support or write them a letter and encourage them to do so.
I have gathered some information mostly from the (unofficial) LEGO MINDSTORMS EV3 Facebook Page and also discussions with other MINDSTORMS hackers. This list is most likely incomplete.

v1.10E: Add USB support for Microsoft MakeCode (EV3 now appears as USB drive).
v1.09H/E: Disable telnet service (security issue in response to this German language article on how malware was discovered running on an EV3).
v1.09D: This is a new "developer" version of the firmware available on the LEGO Education website that has telnet enabled and there is now a password for root (see the readme.txt file that comes with the 1.09D firmware).
v1.08H/E: Add support for the popular Edimax EW-7811UN Wi-Fi dongle.
v1.07H/E: Add support for new Bluetooth chip shipping with newer EV3s (starting circa July 2015).
v1.06H/E: Work around checksum bug on EV3 color sensor RGB mode (used by custom block from David Gilday on the MindCuber)

What about 1.10E? The source available for download is still 1.09, so there's no changelog that explains what's new after that.

LEGO has been very slow about getting the source for 1.10E posted. I've contacted customer support and they are "working on it" for many months now. The major obvious change in 1.10E is that the EV3 now appears as a USB drive. This was done to support using the EV3 with Microsoft's MakeCode. https://makecode.mindstorms.com/

source: Stack Exchange

license: Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0/

all_licenses: Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/

sort: votes


text:
Curved little bar piece seems incredibly useful... what is it?
On this link, there is a special recurring curved piece throughout the photos. It is light grey, can be held by a figure on both sides but not the middle, and looks a little like a paint-roller handle.

What is it? I want, like, 30!

This piece is 12885 Minifig, Utensil Paint Roller Brush Handle.

license: Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/

all_licenses: Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0/


text:
Scooby Dum LEGO character?
I like playing with LEGO sets a lot. I especially like the Scooby Doo sets.  I'm wondering if LEGO has ever made a Scooby Dum character? Scooby Dum is Scooby Doo's cousin.

VTC This is not an official Lego site. We are fans of Lego, but do not have access to the information you are looking for.

@Gliderman even though we as a site are not affiliated with Lego, that does not prevent us from answering the question with what has or has not already been released by Lego. I am going to go with unlikely, as there is no listing under the Lego website. Also, isn't the character spelled Scooby "Dum" as opposed to "Dumb"?

@user2813274 Oh wow, just reread question. I had seen it was addressed as if we were Lego, and assumed it was something we couldn't answer. Sorry about that!

One can never be certain about everything Lego has ever produced, but If you search on Brickset or Bricklink for the word "scooby" you don't, at this time, find anything except Scooby-Doo.


text:
Most common Lego piece?
I know there are many candidates for a rarest Lego piece, but:
Is any specific brick truly the most common? Which? Which color?
I've wondered for a long time about this.
Make sure to include details, as in proof, and if a line is blurry, defend both points.

If you look at the quantity of parts in all sets, the most common is the 1x2 brick ignoring color. The most common part and color combo is the Techhnic pin with friction in black.

These stats were pulled from Rebrickable's database - they previously had a "Stats" page, but this has since been replaced with their API.


text:
What piece is designed to hold the "drawer" piece?
Cruising the good old PAB, I come across a piece called simply, the "drawer". From the image, I can conclude that this piece is meant to act like a real drawer, by pulling out of something.
Question: What is that something? What is designed to hold the drawer?

The part you are looking for is 4532a - Container, Cupboard 2 x 3 x 2 - Solid Studs. There is also a 4532 version with hollow studs.


text:
Challenge: A good, swift kick
Hey everyone, this is Bricks.SE's first challenge question!
Context: On other sites, you sometimes see a question made specifically for the purposes of getting a lot of good ideas, the checkmark given to the best answer.
But with bricks, it gets even more fun. A certain challenge may put not only your knowledge, but also your building skill. So it won't work like Oveflow, Codegolf, or WB. It might be even better.
So, the question today is: How would you make a non-technic structure, at least 2 feet tall, that can withstand a full kick? Include pictures!
Rules:
Non-technic means that the build must have less than 50% technic pieces.
The build must be on a flat surface, and cannot be "dug in."
"Withstand" entails that no pieces are removed.
If no pictures are given, the description must be thorough, for replication.
The bricks may be LEGO, BIONICLE, Mega Bloks, KRE-O, or other clone brands, but not DUPLO, QUATRO, K'NEX, or Znap.
The answer with the most votes in a week that provably solves the problem will be the winner.

I'm completely in support of having challenges on the site. However, I don't expect most of us have access to a baseball pitching machine. Is there possibly some other way we could qualify the best answer? Also, try and be as specific as possible on the rules, "How deep can it be?", "Are large pieces like Duplo & Quatro" allowed?", "What do you define to be the 'best' answer (Fewest Bricks, Strongest, Smallest) etc...

I'm not as in-tune with the specifics of challenges in general on Stack Exchange sites, but I have to thank you for apparently pioneering the tag, as I was just today thinking of a challenge I could use help with.

Hey, thanks. I appreciate it. Yeah, its always risky, the first introduction of a challenge, sometimes it bombs and then the person proposing it gets downvoted and closevoted to the SE underworld. :)

I am not at all against challenges like this (I am all for it in fact) or have anything against your implementation, but adding new aspects like this to an SE site is usually proposed and discussed in meta first.  That way the entire community can have a say and discuss it together.  Remember, SE is a community run network.  (If this was already brought up on meta, please kindly ignore this comment.  I searched for "challenge" and looked through all your meta posts and didn't find anything.)

We did bring it up in meta, I will see I'd I can find the post.

Are you really expecting me to kick my LEGO MOC? Oh, I just realize how old this post is.


text:
Most inseparable combinations?
Some combinations of pieces are really hard to get apart – really hard. Can some answerers provide a list of “dangerous combos“? For example, a 2×2 with a round 2×2 on bottom. Also, if possible, provide a good way to get them apart!

There are some combinations that are almost impossible to separate, such as this "brick paradox": http://bricks.stackexchange.com/questions/982/can-an-axle-be-removed-from-this-brick-paradox

I use an axle to separate stuck parts. It has always works for me.

There is an interesting thread on Eurobricks about "deadly" assemblies: http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?/forums/topic/81402-impossible-lego/#comment-1564353

A 1x1 round plate on the bottom of a 1x1 square plate is pretty difficult to get apart. The Santa's Workshop set uses transparent 1x1 round plates stuck until 1x1 plates with a clip on top to make Christmas lights. I just left the whole thing assembled; I'll probably never bother taking that apart.
Also: if you stick some brand-new 4x4 plates together it can be very very hard to separate them. Lots of clutch, lots of rigidity, so even with 5 brick separators it is difficult work.

My son did some extensive research on this subject, which yielded this beauty:

That’s a light bulb cover stuck into a Duplo stud. While it may look harmless, I found it impossible to get sufficient hold of the lightbulb before levering it out with a very thin screwdriver.

Would it help to use a plastic straw and some suction?

@zovits: I honestly don’t want to test this, but I strongly doubt that you can build up enough force for this. Also, you would have to find a straw that exactly fits around the light bulb.

I have a 3062b (round 1x1 open stud) stuck in the middle of a 6067 (boat mast section base 4x4) and I can't get it off. The round 1x1 fits over the post thingy in the center of the mast base and the side walls of the mast base prevent access to the grove at the bottom of the 1x1 round. The inner diameter of the mast base is small enough and tight enough that any antenna type pieces inserted through the bottom can't catch the lip at the top of the 1x1 round on the way through.

I'd say a 4265a on a 3649 are among the hardest to separate. But a 3647 is more painful due to the teeth
http://rebrickable.com/parts/3749

http://rebrickable.com/parts/4265a

http://rebrickable.com/parts/3647

A 1x1 tile stuck inside the bottom of a 2x4 brick is very difficult to get out. No Brick Separator will help you there.

The Brick Separator can be employed successfully in a majority of cases where bricks are stuck together.
The hardest thing to remove I believe is Technic pins 4459 wherever used. See separate question.

When I was a kid I had 6 Technic sets that I loved and played a lot with. Those pesky pins without center slots would pull up a very strong fight.. but were always not enough for my child persistence :) I never had one pin broke down on me, I just loved too much those beautiful (for the time) Technic sets !

Generally, early BIONICLE body bricks can encounter issues with this, due to their bulky, specially-designed nature. For instance, the Toa Mata body gearbox has a particular danger area inside it. If one places the #2 axle connector hub horizontally inside the neck area and sticks a 2-long axle in either side, the result is completely irreversible.
This is akin to some of the 'brick paradoxes' mentioned in this blog post, which I found linked in a question while browsing the tag selection a few days ago. There are plenty more to be found in Technic construction; after all, Bryson's Second Law of Repairs, a corollary of Murphy's Law, states: "If you fool around with a thing for very long you will screw it up."

Wow, the Toa Mata gearbox is especially hazardous since many of the sets contain all the pieces to get it stuck!

Also, part 99009 and Part 99010 is another one that is extremely hard to disassemble as highlight in this question. (The current brick separator will not work in this situation.)

Doesn't seem like a huge problem, since these are designed that way. The combination is effectively one part.

Another inseparable part is the
if you put enough of them together side by side many times

A 1x1 tile stuck to a 1x1 round plate was the hardest, I think harder than the accepted answer above, until I used two LEGO brick spectators in opposite directions. Put the stuck pieces on top of one separator facing north, pry with a second one facing south. Pops them apart beautifully.
Small plates stuck together can be separate using two LEGO separators, but both in the same direction.

A 1x1 round tile on 1x1 round plate.
You can't use a brick separator, because tiles don't have studs.

You're using the wrong end of the brick separator. The fat end has a strong, thin edge which can fit between the two - then twist. I just did this now to test it. I presume it's why the 1x1 round tile has a lip.

It should be possible to use one of the studs on top of the brick separator with the antistud of the plate to grab it and provide enough leverage via holding the plate to separate them.

I found a 1x1 round plate with one end of a "string with end studs" stuck on top of it surprisingly difficult to get apart with my bare hands, without ripping the string off.
If you have 2 brick separators available (one above and one below), or a plate and a brick separator it is easy as you can lock each piece, but with bare hands it is completely impossible.


text:
What are some "Illegal" LEGO combinations?
On Brothers Brick, there is an AFOL term for bad LEGO combos: Illegal.  These combinations are "unconventional" and put stress on the bricks. Essentially, they are nonconformist, risky maneuvers, typically compromising the integrity of any parts in it.
For example -- from the site -- wedging a flat plate between studs on a brick.  I have used this term before, and can testify to dangerous combinations. So I'm posing this as another challenge for the community, like my hard to separate combos.
What are some Illegal combinations * you* have found? Largest number of unique combos wins! (please don't try to kill anything for this.)

I would again politely ask the community to like the question being answered as general policy, after all, no good questions means no good answers!

How can LEGO building techniques be illegal? Would you be put In jail for using on? I like to wonder

"Illegal" is just the word lego designers use to define building techniques that are considered undesirable because:

they place stress on te elements, making them wear out
they cause elements to be out of sync, making them difficult to combine with standard building techniques or difficult to model with designer software
they make the set difficult to assemble or dissassemble for a kid
...

There are of course no repercussions if you use these techniques anyway, it is your LEGO...

I do not think it is up to us to determine what is considered an Illegal Technique - TLG (The LEGO Group) determines this for their commercial products. It depends on how much of a purist you are whether you apply these constraints in your own builds.
That said, LEGO Designer Jamie Berard has made a presentation in the past that highlights most Illegal Techniques.
Some examples:

Studs-on-side bricks cannot have their side stud in the hole of a
technic brick
Bricks mounted SNOT style onto Ehrling/Headlight bricks cannot sit
directly above a normal stud (the minimal height of the LEGO
embossing makes that combination illegal)
Technic pins have to be fully inserted into technic holes, otherwise they stay in compressed state which causes stress on the element.
Plates cannot be inserted with their studs into technic bricks, unless it is a 1x1 plate (so only 1 hole is used) and there is no brick attached to the technic brick directly above the inserted plate.
As mentioned by you already, you cannot insert plates between studs (this used to be a valid technique 20+ years ago, but is no longer considered "legal" by LEGO).

LEGO designers are also strongly discouraged from ever directly mating polycarbonate or transparent pieces. I don't know if this counts as "illegal" or if there is any official set that breaks this rule.

@jdv certain trans pieces cannot be used with other trans pieces because the plastic forms a chemical bond between the elements. The linked PDF gives the example of a transparent bar inserted into another transparent element such as a cone. Stud-to-stud connections are still allowed.

Is putting a round piece between four studs legal?

One illegal technique I've seen was two elements stuck together using a sticker to bind them. The builder claimed that the solution was "purist" because it was a lego sticker from a set.

This is not even a building technique. :)

@Aziraphale It was used in a moc to hold pieces together... depends on your point of view I guess. Load-bearing stickers.


text:
How to make a regular pentagon from technic bricks
For the purposes of this build, we need a pentagon (figure with 5 sides), that is regular (all sides have equal length), and it needs to be able to be mounted on a build (like a wreath) by a technic-friction-pin, (the little black ones).
This may be hard to achieve, with the given possible angles. The pentagonal shape must maintain its shape, no warping, etc. It must also be made of "properly fitting pieces."

Do you allow for the use of non-current technic pieces?

Absolutely. Old pieces are always fun.

About what size and thickness are you looking for?

I'd really like to know this as well. I can think of several ways (will post one as answer) but I'd like something more elegant and compact and can't think of anything better

Using the same length ratios as in the construction that Philo posted in his answer I created this:

It uses length 5, 6 and 7 thin liftarms (5 of each) and 30 half-pins
I'm quite happy with it!

A solution, using a (quite precise) approximation:

Granted, it's a bit bulky, but it could be reduced by half using 7.5 stud long stiffeners (eg. using Technic brick 1+ Technic brick 8 +plates)
Link to LDraw file: http://www.brickshelf.com/gallery/Philo/misc2/pentagon/pentagon.ldr

I see the pentagon outer angle created by triangle with sides 15, 12 and 6 for a 108.21 degree which is indeed a good Approximation, but you could make it a third as small with a  5,4,2 triangle!

Recently came across this problem again, so I'd like to post another answer (2 answers actually).
I figured out how to create an "exact" pentagram (no approximations) using only swivel plates and turntables (blue in the picture):

The math very shortly: cos(Pi/5) = (1+sqrt(5))/4 and sqrt(5) can be created with a (2,sqrt(5),3) righthanded triangle.
I posted this in the FB group "LEGO math and patterns", one of the group members mentioned a paper "Mecanno math" by Gerard ’t Hooft which can be found here, which has several elegant solutions, e.g. figure 7 in the paper lists 6 solutions:

It should be straightforward how the Meccano strips can be replaced by Technic liftarms (as the original poster asked).
Another response I got in another FB group is that this constructions works quite well:

I tried it and they are correct, the pentagon is rigid and the elements do not seem under undue stress.

"figure 7" right above a picture of 6 constructions that are labeled with letters?

I would suggest you use 10 of either one of these: 4273 Technic, Axle and Pin Connector Toggle Joint Toothed  or 4273a Technic, Axle and Pin Connector Toggle Joint Toothed - Without Slots, together with 5 equal length axles and 5 pins. Creates a sturdy pentagon. Use the pin connector hole to attach the pentagon to other structures.

If you don't want axles, but bricks, you can mount connections onto the bricks to mount these 4273s the same way.

It's impossible to create a pentagon with 10 Axle and Pin Connectors. The reason is simple, each angle of a pentagon must be of 108°. But pin connectors can only have the following angles: 90, 112.5, 135, 157.5 and 180°. So it's impossible to create a pentagon with these connectors.

You could argue that 112,5 is close enought to 108 degrees. The pentagram is indeed under a bit of stress though, axles are slightly bent

A right triangle with sides 3 by 1 has as largest angle 71.5650512 and smallest 18.4349488 degrees.
That is reasonably close enough to 72 and 18 degrees which can be used to create a pentacle. Lots of right angled connectors or beams you could use then...


text:
Where can I find the misspelled Luke Skywlaker pen?
There was a LEGO Star Wars snafu in which a buildable pen was released, and "Skywalker" was incorrectly spelled as "Skywlaker". This was quickly remedied, and a corrected version was released.
I would like to find one of these "Skywlaker" pens. I have checked eBay, LEGO shop, Amazon and Bricklink and have not been able to find it. Does anyone have tips on where to look for these one-of-a-kind items?

Does anybody have a photo of one of these?  My googling came up with lots of low res images that weren't this thing.

Thats me and I still have it. :)

Hi Peter, can you share a photo of this strange pen?

The closest I could find is a forum thread where a member called "slow 2.0" writes that (s)he has two of these and might be willing to sell one of them. The catch is the thread is from 2010 and the user hasn't been active in the forum since 2014.
Update Since the thread no longer has the image, here is how it looked like:

Turns out we have two of these...

Are you related to user "slow 2.0" mentioned in the other answer?


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Dark metallic gray tube: Is it a LEGO?
Unfortunately, I no longer own the piece in question. But here are the specs:

Dark metallic grey, like Super Battle Droids.
Somewhere in the vicinity of 6 inches long.
Flat ends: not a cut or broken pice of something else.
Fits perfectly in a hole for basic minifig-grabbable bars.
Not easily bent, but can kink slightly.

If this isn't a LEGO, say so, but bring some proof please.

Sounds like 'Hose, Rigid 3mm D. 16L / 12.8cm' in Pearl Dark Grey. Super Battle Droids are also in Metal Blue but none of the hoses exists in this color. Also note that the linked hose also exists in other sizes too and that the exact piece you have had might have been cut.
Note that colors mentioned refer to Bricklink's color names, LEGO company's official color names are different.


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Rescued Minifigure ID, read torso with armor and yellow head with mustache and glasses
I found this poor guy in a stream by a school. I assume the pieces are cobbled together, but I want the ID of the head and body, as I might be able to salvage them.

Keep being awesome, guys!

You are right,
the parts are from different minifigs:

The head is Minifig, Head Moustache Brown Hair, Glasses on Forehead, Raised Eyebrow Pattern - Blocked Open Stud
The torso is
Torso Armor White with Black Muscles Outline and White Belt Pattern / Red Arms / Pearl Gold Hands
The legs are Hips and Dark Blue Legs

Those pearl gold hands will be a pain to find.

authors: هلوسات مجنونة


text:
Does the Mindstorms EV3 software work on macOS Sierra?
I guess this is a continuation of these two questions:
Does the Mindstorms EV3 software run on OS X El Capitan?
Is the LEGO Midstorms EV3 software compatible with OS X yosemite?
macOS Sierra was just released, and I want to upgrade. Will there be issues with the software, or will it work properly?
My Mac: Retina MBP 13", Early 2015

I have a Mac Mini with macOS Sierra, and the LEGO software works on it for me.

FWIW, LEGO MINDSTORMS EV3 Home Edition was crashing on startup (latest Mac OS X Sierra du jour: 10.12.6 16G1113) — presumably (from callisto's answer) because my installed version of Mono was too recent. I uninstalled Mono by typing the following commands in a Terminal:

sudo rm -rf /Library/Frameworks/Mono.framework
sudo pkgutil --forget com.xamarin.mono-MDK.pkg
sudo rm -rf /etc/paths.d/mono-commands

Afterwards, I uninstalled and reinstalled LEGO MINDSTORMS EV3 Home Edition from its official source and I could successfully run it. FWIW, the version of Mono that LEGO MINDSTORMS EV3 Home Edition installs for itself is 2.10.9:
# ls -l /Library/Frameworks/Mono.framework/Versions/
total 8
drwxrwxr-x  12 root  wheel  408  8 mai  2012 2.10.9
lrwxr-xr-x   1 root  wheel    6 25 nov 12:46 Current -> 2.10.9

Beware though. If you install Xamarin on your OSX machine, it will grab the latest Mono framework which is NOT compatible with the EV3 software (I don't recall which MONO version is used by EV3 software).
I have contacted Lego support a few times, and they are not going to update their OSX software. You will either have to then use a different machine or a VM to run the EV3 software.

Could you please share your insight on exactly which versions of Mono are compatible?

IIRC EV3 Software uses Mono 2.10.9

FYI, LEGO has (mostly) fixed this issue. Both versions of Mono can be installed side-by-side and the LEGO software will now continue to work even when you upgrade Xamarin/Visual Studio for Mac. I think that installing the LEGO software may temporarily break other Mono software because it sets the old version of Mono to the default, but you can just reinstall the newer Mono and all your programs should work.


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EV3, menu with the buttons?
I've been trying to make a menu that when you press the < button on the block it will start and > button to stop.
The menu will also only occur at the start, it will not be ongoing. I've attempted to use the Switch block but it always goes to the default case and I can't make it into 2 options, i.e. "begin" and "stop" the program.
Any help would be much appropriated.

Welcome Rean. Please add a printout of your best try (the one with the Switch block) and if possible, provide more details as to where in this program you have an issue.

The brick buttons are a bit tricky.
In pseudocode:

Wait for "<" button to be pressed and released
Run a program that leaves the motors running.
Wait for ">" button to be pressed
Stop the motors

The tricky parts:

which mode of the wait for block
which button to watch
button being pressed vs bumped
ignoring the extra section of the wait for block

And finally there is the possibility that the desire was to provide an option to stop the program at any time while it was running, not just at the end of the program to stop running motors.  That is a much different problem for which this example only hints at a solution.


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Why does Jay from Ninjago have a scar?
Jay, one of the protagonists of the Ninjago series, has a scar on his face. I would like someone to let me know what this is about.

Great question, and welcome to LEGO Answers!

According to the book, LEGO NINJAGO: The Visual Dictionary (Masters of Spinjitzu):

Eyebrow notch caused by an explosion

The relevant page can be previewed on the Amazon page for the book:


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Does the Lego Mindstorms EV3 software work on macOS High Sierra?
Will there be issues with the software, or will it work properly on macOS High Sierra?
My Mac: Retina MacBook Pro 13", Early 2015

I've upgraded to High Sierra already. I just tried loading a large/complex program in the educational version of the EV3 software and sending it to the EV3 with both Bluetooth and USB. So, it looks like there are at least not any major issues.


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What set are these parts from? Tan walls and arches with green shutters?
Can you help me identify this Lego set? I don't know what set it is or how to build it!!

That looks like bag five of the Friends "Summer Riding Camp" from a few years back. I'd guess it's the stable to the left hand side of this picture:

The combination of the dark green shutters and medium lavender plates were my driving clues.


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Can't identify this LEGO set with large angled brown plates
Can any one help identify this LEGO set?
Because I can't find instructions to build it!

I think you have some of the parts for Jabba's Sail Barge #75020

It is one of the few sets to have so many of the Hinge Plate 2 x 4 with Pin Hole and 3 Holes in light bluish gray, you show 7.  It also has the  12 x 3 Wedge Plates in reddish brown, as well as the reddish brown 2 x 3 Tile with 2 Clips, and reddish brown 2 x 14 plates.


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Which LEGO set did these small tan, grey and tan bricks come from?
Can anyone help me identify this LEGO set?
I just opened the bag and those are all the pieces, I don't know how to build or how to find instructions.

Please explain more about what you know about these pieces and why you think they are a set.

Its from a big box and i took this bag and opened it so it has to form a set

My guess is that they are just part of a set, and there may be one or more additional bags that — together — make up a complete set. Unfortunately, I’m not sure which set.

It looks like there is a good answer here.  Maybe the OP will accept it eventually?

@chicks - When I posted my first question here, without creating an account, I couldn't find any way to select the appropriate answer given.  Is there a way?  If not it is something that I feel needs a solution.  I think most questions without a chosen answer are probably because of this problem.

Those are mostly fairly generic pieces, however the 4x8 in Medium Blue only appears in 7 sets, and of those only Tower Bridge has any 1x8 in Reddish Brown.
This is part of  10214-1: Tower Bridge

I couldn't find instructions for them and I've been looking for them the entire day can you help me with a link?

You can find instructions on the Brickset page, under the set image

@TalalMDabak, you can also find manuals on the Lego manuals page: https://www.lego.com/en-us/service/buildinginstructions. Search for the set number above: 10214.


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LEGO identification from white, grey, and blue pieces?
I have these LEGO parts, can anyone help me identify this LEGO set?

I think this is part of 9525-1: Pre Vizsla's Mandalorian Fighter


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Lego identification help! Red torso, lightsaber handle, and grey pieces?
What does this build? Can anyone help me with the instructions link?

In the top left corner you can see the back of this torso:
Torso SW Darth Maul Chest with Gray and Silver Collar and Belt Pattern / Printed Red Arms / Black Hands

So this is part of 75022-1: Mandalorian Speeder

Building on @Syberion's answer and identification of the set, you can find many PDFs of manuals on Lego's site: https://www.lego.com/en-us/service/buildinginstructions
You can search by the set number, theme, and/or year to find manuals.
For this specific set, here are the links:

Search for set 75022 on Lego's Manual site (link)
Direct PDF link: https://lc-www-live-s.legocdn.com/bigdownloads/buildinginstructions/6050596.pdf


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What LEGO set is this? White pieces, brick separator, and blue pilot Clone Trooper?
I can't identify this.  What does this build?

The minifigure  is  501st Clone Pilot (75004)
So it should be this set
Z-95 Headhunter


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Identify LEGO set with black door, large sand arch, dark-sand bricks, and tan plates?
What does this build? It has a black door, large sand arch, dark-sand bricks, and tan plates.

THese parts come from 10232 Palace Cinema, based on the black door and the two 8x8 wedge plates in Tan.


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Lego mindstorms ev3 spinner factory problem
I hope you can help me with this. I'm on an education where we practice all stuff about IT. I'm currently working on the Spinner Factory project in the EV3. However, when i looked through the program description, I stumbled upon this picture
I have no idea what the grey block before start block means. I've tried a lot of googling, but can't find a solution. I don't know how to implement it either,.

My Blocks can have input and output parameters.
What you're seeing is an input parameter.
This particular My Block has as input parameter the color the factory bridge needs to drive to.
If you create a My Block from a selection of blocks and there are already data wires going in or out of the selection, input and output parameters are created automatically.
You can also add or edit input or output parameters in the My Block Builder dialog.
Perhaps this tutorial helps:
http://stemrobotics.cs.pdx.edu/sites/default/files/MyBlocks%20%281%29.pdf

I'm trying that out now. What would the default value be for the parameter?

I don't know. You should inspect where the MyBlock is used. If the rest of the program is well designed, the MyBlock will always be used with the parameter specified so it doesn't matter what you select as default parameter as the default will never be used. But however, perhaps as a short-cut, they've given priority to one particular color. In that case you can set this as the default parameter and for that color, no parameter needs to be passed to the MyBlock

Hmm. I still can't figure it out. I can create a MyBlock and "attach" a parameter to it. But it seems that somehow a parameter os created before turning it into a MyBlock

You need to have one or more blocks selected that will get turned into a MyBlock, if data wires are going in or out to one or more of the arguments of the selected blocks, parameters are indeed created automatically. I assume you can edit them afterwards... If not, and the automatic parameter creation is problematic, remove the data wires before creating the MyBlock...


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Mindstorms EV3 Spinner factory complete code problem
I recently posted a question about the creation of My Block. Now I have another problem. I have written the code as described in the program description, and double checked it, but it still doesn't work. I'm sorry for the way that I've visualised the program, but it seemed the easiest way:
Spinner Factory

I feel this is relevant from meta: How do I ask and answer homework questions? I think your question cannot be considered very specific... Perhaps you can tell us what exactly doesn't work?

I don't exactly know. I think it is the block GH_1, but I'm not sure

I know you're banned, but you should try selecting certain blocks at a time and press the run selected button. Keep trying this throughout the program until you get an error from either the EV3 Brick or the PC. More often than not it may come from the PC

Currently, the EV3 education software can be downloaded for free
https://education.lego.com/en-us/downloads/mindstorms-ev3/software
It includes the program for the spinner factory, perhaps you can study that program and compare it with your own implementation to find the problem
Alternatively and probably much more instructive, you could learn how to debug programs. For EV3 this is easiest with inserting sound alert or displaying values on the EV3 screen (with a wait block) during the steps of your program, you can find hints on how to debug a program here:
http://stemrobotics.cs.pdx.edu/sites/default/files/debug.pdf


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What's the part number of this LEGO element?

Can anybody help me identify this part?

Following the instructions https://bricks.stackexchange.com/questions/154/how-do-i-identify-a-lego-part and without any info (is it new? old?) nor having it in hand (turn around and read number): Go to e.g. Rebrickable, there do search with restrictions: 1/ has appeared in white, 2/ exclude printed parts. Now you get too many results ("1000" = maxed out); so split time in sets that give less than 1000 results (1945--1995, 1995--2001, 2001--2005, ... some 8/9 setc), then leaf through the 9--10pages each gives... So by chance, it appears on page 8 (of 9) for the 1945--1995 search... pff.

OK the above can be sharper (no need to overlap years, so 1945--1995, 1996--...), and faster using the Categories (I'd guess: "Panels", "Angled plates", ... the correct choice "Transportation" I wouldn't have guessed but it contains so any that I'd included it)...  Maybe Brickowl is easier; you'd want multi-category-select for one search.

That's a rather old part (50 years, actually) used mainly for tipper buckets in trains or trucks, you can see it in this train for example:

Its part ID is 3145.

Thank you very much.

I'm really interested to know how you did to find that. That's impressive! I'm not a Lego expert at all, but reading the comments of user3445853 it seemed really difficult.

Well, my first LEGO train, 171 had two in red, so with that info it was rather straightforward. Aside from that, there's a question on the subject with a very good answer but let's face it, sometimes it's just a matter of remembering the part at all.


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What is LEGO terminology for measurement of normal bricks and common scales?
Where can I find basic LEGO terminology illustrated with LEGO parts, e.g. what's a stud? What's a plate? I also need to know the names of the most common scales of basic LEGO kits, and measurement of a most fundamental part(s) at each scale.

Does the answer below satisfy you, or do you need more information?

Terminology
This is the most basic terminology in a single image:

A bit more verbose version is found in this slideshow, but there are a few factual errors, highlighted in the comments below.
The various parts are named based on their main characteristics, then their sizes in studs, as seen here:
After getting the hang of it, it's time to advance to the more complex terminology, with the help of the indispensable blog New Elementary.
Measurements
The fundamental sizes for the basic bricks are seen in this answer, or a bit more simply:
The height of the plates is 1/3 of the bricks, or 3.2 mm.
Scale
As for scales, this question is a bit complicated, as the basic reference unit is the LEGO Minifigure, which has weird proportions, resulting in inconsistent scales:
However, there are a few official ones, including:

minifigure scale (about 1:40)
microscale: anything way smaller than that, see these examples or these official ones.
midi-scale was only ever used officially for two sets, which are sized very differently, as both models are around 30 studs long, so it's 1:100 - 1:6000 which would definitely fall into microscale category.
towards the other end of the scale, there is life-sized, which of course does not get used much for official sets for sale, but rather for one-off projects:
and it is definitely possible to create larger than life LEGO builds:  Or models of microscopical structures, like cells:  or even of subatomic scale:

I believe "technic linkers" are more commonly called "pins".

Also worth mentioning is the term “antistud”, which is the opening at the bottom of a brick/plate/tile that fits a stud snugly and is the reason the LEGO brick system works so well.

@PhilB. I have updated the images with your suggestions.

From the book Crazy Action Contraptions page 47 has a nice graphic showing the relation between the sizes of different pieces.

I'd add that it is more common to call a "sideways brick" a stud. All lego elements are measured in studs. Using the same example as on the far right of the image, this Technic Axle is four studs long.


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Current LEGO Digital Designer download is missing a lot of parts
The current LDD download is missing a lot of bricks that were in version 1.3.11 before.
Such as, but not limited to:
EV3 motors, sensors and the main EV3 brick.
Does anyone have a solution/download with all the 1.3.11 bricks?

Unfortunately LDD has been actively deprecated for quite a number of years and LEGO officially noted they would not be updating the parts set and would, in fact, be removing some parts quite a few years ago.
The only solution is to use one of the alternatives such as any of the options that use the LDraw libraries. One of the more popular right now (for good reason IHO) is Stud.io, which as of the completion of the BrickLink acquisition will be owned by TLG.

This is compounded by the fact that apparently 4.3.12 (which identifies in app as 4.3.11) does indeed appear to have removed a number of elements :(


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Where is this piece from?
Does anyone know where is this tree from?
I found it in my childhood (90s) box full of LEGO, but I'm pretty sure it is not actually LEGO.

Do you see any markings of LEGO anywhere on it? Nearly every piece has it imprinted somewhere.

Doesn't look like LEGO in the slightest. Wrong texture, no studs or anti-studs, wrong color...

It is not LEGO. Parts from the 90s are well documented, and I can't find this part on BrickLink when searching for the word "Tree".


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I found these images of parts and want to find their part numbers
So I found this lot on the internet but don't trust the seller. What I want to do is find the part numbers of the pieces on the image and buy it from a reliable source. I tried to find it in multiple ways but did not succeed. I also intend to use this on future pieces but it's okay if you can provide only the ones on the picture. Lastly the main piece I'm searching for is the first one.
Thank you in advance.

You can find all of these elements listed on Bricklink under "Technic, Steering" category
Assembled combinations are:

Technic, Steering Portal Axle, Housing with Dark Bluish Gray Technic, Steering Wheel Hub 3 Pin Round (92908 / 92909)

Technic, Steering Axle with 2 Pin Holes and 2 Axle Holes with Dark Bluish Gray Wheel Hub (23801 / 92909)

Technic, Steering Axle with 2 Pin Holes and 2 Ball Joint Arms with Dark Bluish Gray Wheel Hub (11949 / 92909)

Technic, Steering Arm with 4 Ball Joints with Black Wheel Hub (x872 / x873)

Technic, Steering Axle with 2 Pin Holes with Dark Bluish Gray Wheel Hub (11950 / 92909)

No listing as an assembly

No listing as an assembly

Technic, Steering Axle with 2 Pin Holes with Dark Bluish Gray Steering Wheel Hub 3 Pin Holes Round (11950/ 35189)

These assemblies consist of following individual elements (listed by the time of the first appearance on a picture):

92908 - Technic, Steering Portal Axle, Housing
92909 - Technic, Steering Wheel Hub 3 Pin Round
23801 - Technic, Steering Wheel Hub Holder with 2 Pin Holes and 2 Axle Holes
11949 - Technic, Steering Wheel Hub Holder with 2 Pin Holes and 2 Ball Joint Arms
x873c01 - Technic, Steering Arm with 4 Ball Joints with Black Wheel Hub (x872 / x873)
11950 - Technic, Steering Wheel Hub Holder with 2 Pin Holes
92910 - Technic, Steering Ball Joint Large Open with C-Shape Pivot Frame
92911 - Technic, Steering Ball Joint Large Receptacle
35189 - Technic, Steering Wheel Hub 3 Pin Holes Round

Check out these URLs where you can find which sets each of these elements was included in and you can also purchase ones you need directly on Bricklink.


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Is there a reason why there's sometimes multiple "Bag 1" bags in particular sets?
When building some of the larger sets from Lego, there are sometimes cases where there's multiple large bags having the same number.  This ends up being a bit of a challenge when the build space on my table isn't that large.
I'm guessing that Lego has a good reason for doing this, is it for packing efficiency, a logical step in the build (albeit a large one), or some other consideration?
This doesn't really spoil my enjoyment (except for part-hunting time), I was just curious about the reason.

It doesn't make sense as both being "Bag 1", of course, but if you think of them as being part of "Stage 1", then there's no issue. Each stage will likely have bigger and smaller parts, and the smaller parts are easier to keep track of in their own bag.

I assume this is down to purely logistic reasons, like the available plastic bag sizes, the characteristics of the different packaging pipelines (it is known that LEGO takes extreme care when packing the bags with pieces, including multiple weighings to ensure not a single part is missing - the precision required to check for the presence a small element could preclude the range necessary for bags containing many and larger pieces), the locations of the different packaging facilities, and so on.


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Control Lego Technic Control+ Hub via Python
Is it possible to control the Lego Technic Control+ Hub with Python?
I have tried using Pybricks but that didn't work well for me.

Hi Luftiger and welcome to Bricks.SE! You wrote that using Pybricks didn't work well for you, could you please provide more details on what have you tried and how did that fail? As far as I know, many people are using it successfully, so it should be worth a while to find the cause why it didn't for you.

Hello zovits! Every time I try I get an Error that Connection Failed for Unknown Reason.

Yes, it is possible to remote control a Technic Control+ hub with Python using a library such as pylgbst or bricknil.
You can also write MicroPython programs that run on the hub directly using Pybricks.
You can get support for Pybricks at https://github.com/pybricks/support/discussions. There is a Bluetooth troubleshooting guide to help with connection issues.


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Train with two Powered Up hubs
I'm building a motorized train. The locomotive has two Powered Up train motors, one at each end. However, no matter where I place the hub inside the locomotive, the wires on the train motors are too short to both reach the hub.
So, I have decided to try to connect each motor to a separate hub. The problem is that the motors have to spin in the opposite direction. I know that if I put one motor on the "A" output of one hub and the other motor on the "B" output of the other hub, then I can control the motors independently, but I was wondering if there was a way to program the hubs so that I can control both motors together. Is this possible? If so, what would an example program look like to do this? I can also program in Python and Java if that helps at all. Below is a picture of my current setup.

You could also try non LEGO brand extension cables:  https://pv-productions.com/product/powered-up-extension-cable/

I don't have too much experience with PUp system and my collection is insufficient to test, but cannot you simply pair both hubs to use same "channel" and use "A" ends for each motor? You would then need to just turn rotate single motor-bogie.

@KirkWoll Thanks! I didn't even know that existed.

@Alex That's the problem, though… I can't simply turn one of the motors around because then the wire would be on the wrong side of the motor. It might be possible, but it would require modifying the frame of the locomotive to allow the wire to pass through on the other side.

Yes, what you require is perfectly possible to implement in the Powered Up app on nearly any recent smart device.
You do need to program a bit, there's a graphical programming interface which you can get to after tapping the "Create" button.
Since you mention that you're experienced with actual programming languages like Python and Java, you should have no difficulty figuring out what the code blocs do.
You'll have the option to either work with sliders that will be present on some makeshift GUI on your smart device to control the speed, or you can chose to connect a remote as a third device (the other two devices being the hubs) and work with the input from the remote...
Addition: I've found the following example program on reddit:

It's a successful attempt to control the train with the remote just like when the remote would be connected directly... it maintains a variable with the speed of a the train, which can be increased or decreased with the + and - buttons on the train remote, and then the speed is set to the motor. The only change you would need to make is setting the negative of that speed on the second train motor which will be connected to the second hub.
That hub will be the third device connected, which is important for the port selection in the code blocks...


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Saturn V build step 124
Step 124. Having some difficulty from the diagram figuring out how to orient each of these four pieces. Can't figure out if the light grey nozzle is suppose to snap into the bracket shown in step 123. So far no problems except for this. LEGO needed a bottom view of the assembly.

You just need to slide each of these 5 sub-assemblies onto black/yellow axles. There are no further attachment points between this sub-assembly and the rest of the model.
Instructions suggests you need to point each nozzle toward next engine in outer circle (except for center one, which works in any orientation). You don't really have other options for orientation since parts you've put together on previous step limit positioning of the sub-assembly found in Step 124. And looking at the pictures from various reviews I found over the internet I don't think there is a good way of picturing engines from the bottom since colors are dark and pretty much the same.


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Cat D11 calibration
Once I start the calibration of the Cat D11 does anyone know how long it should take? I have let mine run for at least 10 minutes and it never completes. Should I keep it going for more time? Or is something wrong?

Just curious if you made any progress? My son, who is 11 just finished the build and the blade, hook on the back and ladder lifts. And then all the gears seem to spin. Any suggestions. Thanks


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One of EV3 motors doesn't respond in demo program
I just bought the EV3 set and made the "TRACK3R" model. When I run the demo program from LEGO the port B motor does not work - only the port C motor is works. But if I try "Motor Control" both ports are working properly. I have already tried replacing the cable but it had no impact. So how can I fix this?

When you say it "does not work" what is it doing or not doing that is different? Also try swapping the motors to see if the problem is the motor or the port itself.


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ev3dev vs lejos - looking for a comprehensive comparison
Did anyone make a good comparison of these two environments?
The most important factors to me are OS booting time, RAM usage, application start-up time,, compatibility with USB devices, and power consumption.
As an example, lejos takes 1:20s to boot up and obtain IP address and leaves 4812 kilobytes of free memory.


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What Mega Bloks set is this tile with fruits from?
These pieces are from a Mega Bloks set. Does anyone know which set they're from?


text:
Why do Lego boxes not contain the set numbers in Braille?
Why does Lego not stamp the braille set number on to the boxes of sets?  I know they have made audio/braille versions of instructions, but why are they not making the boxes of sets accessible too?

This is one of those questions where you'd get more details if asked directly via LEGO Customer Service.


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Where do you find custom ev3 code blocks?
I've heard of people using custom-made ev3 (code) blocks in the software, but I don't know where to look for them. Can someone post relevant links? Specifically, I am looking for more technical blocks like one to get the character at some index in a string (the second character of "hello" is "e") as I am used to real text coding and the block coding editor is rather... lacking for my needs. Thanks in advance!


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trying to identify a lego set with no box or insturctions there is 9 numbered bags of parts and one sticker sheet with the number 77004 on it?
there is 7 numbered bags of parts 3-9 and 4 unnumbered bags and one sticker sheet with the number 77004 on it ?
one bag has the number 1*77004.6.1.4
i have searched and can not find any set with that number
the sticker sheet looks like one that comes with the millennium falcon but not sure which version
any help please

Please add pictures. Quick search on LEGO fan pages didn't render any meaningful results, so it could be non-LEGO set.


text:
Could someone help me identify this set's bag?
I have this bag and i don't know what set belongs to, its 2011 and it has blue and white parts, so could someone help me please?

Can you upload a photo of the bag? Also see the linked question and try the steps there - let us know if you encounter any difficulties with them.


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Two misplaced bags unknown box
Son got into the Christmas stash.
I have random bags with 603R1. Which set did they come from?? Thanks.

Please add clear pictures showing the elements included within each bag. The code you've mentioned cannot be used to identify the set.


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Software for designing your Lego Technic builds
Is there a software for designing Lego Technic builds? That way I would know which parts I really need to buy.


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Cat D11 Bulldozer (42131) set's calibration always reset
Calibration of my Cat D11 Bulldozer went without any issues. Everything worked fine. The problem came after. When I disconnect, either by Bluetooth or manually, the calibration data went out the window and all the functions don't work properly anymore. So I have to calibrate again. Sometimes, when calibration get stuck at the blade, I have to remove the app and download it again, to get a good calibration again. But when I disconnect the hub again I can start all over again. Anybody knows how to solve this?


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I have bags 2 and 3 labeled 719R6… Which set are they from?
They are likely from the Lego Friends series, since those sets are what my daughter likes. Lots of lavender, aqua, white and grey pieces. 719R6 on both bags.
Googling it turns up a Star Wars set 7196, which it is not.

Hi LegoMom9111111 and welcome to Bricks.SE! The codes printed on the bags are unfortunately only there to identify the empty plastic bags during the packaging process - they bear no information about the contents once sealed. Can you perhaps upload a photo with as much of the contained pieces visible as possible? Or check out the linked Q&A page on how to identify the set and get back to edit this question if you get stuck. Good luck and play well!


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Trying to identify the lego set
I'm trying to identify this LEGO set, but have had no luck.
It's bag 2 with 209R3 number. The trademark says 2017.
I'll attach a picture. My son and I would like to build it but Google has been no help to us in finding the correct set to download the instructions.

Any ID's found on bags are cannot be used to identify the set. Please add pictures.


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Lego sealed bags 135149 - year 2017
I have 4 lego sealed bags with the number 135149 on it, from the year 2017.
Could someone help me find the instructions?
1 bag blue and green parts
1 bag yellow, orange and white parts
1 bag brown, black and grey parts
1 bag red and pink parts

Please add pictures.


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Unidentified lego bag
This bag I can't identify. It's full of black and gray pieces. I found this bag of lego parts marked 732R3 #22. Help me know what it goes to. I've had no luck searching.

The bag markings cannot identify a set. If you add a picture, we can help. Or you can look the pieces up yourself from the linked duplicate question.