text:
What manners are specific to mahjong?
Many games, especially ancient ones, have their own set of manners. For instance, Go players bow before the game and greet each other ("onegaishimasu") and play the first stone in the upper right corner [etc].
Is there something similar in mahjong, too?

Why was this flagged as spam?

Onegaishimasu not the "standard greeting of Go," is very specifically Japanese. Go is played in a lot more countries than just Japan though. It didn't even originate in Japan, Go just recently became popular in the western world through the surge of Japanese culture there, hence the image.

I beg to disagree with User545. Mahjong is drenched in formal--even ceremonial--aspects: The sorting of the seats, the selection of the first east, the building of the wall, the breaking of the same, the collecting of the tiles, the procedures of play, the vocabulary... To a person who grew up with the game around her or him many of these might seem commonplace, but to someone new to the game they appear remarkably ritual. And the way expert players seamlessly, silently and knowingly interact in smooth choreography under the same peculiar (and somewhat mysterious) etiquette is uniquely enchanting to those being introduced to the game.
Furthermore, each national variant of mahjong (Japanese, Taiwanese, Korean, Vietnamese, Malaysian, even the Western variants, like American, or the Chinese Classical game now played mainly in Europe, among many others) has variations of these formalities and rites, not just of rules and hands.
For example, the most popular mahjong variant in Japan--riichi mahjong, which is played extensively in that country, across all ages, and which is undergoing a true renaissance (not only in Japan, but around the world, thanks to Japanese manga and anime)--is particularly adept at meticulously keeping this ritual aspect of the game. This aspect affects all forms of game traits, manners, and in-game behavior, all the way down to tile size, as well as their handling, and the body language of the players in doing so.
In Japanese mahjong, there are particular ways to shuffle (if not using automatic machines), hold and handle the tiles, build the wall, arrange discards (in neatly disposed discard rows, exactly 6 tiles across and 3 down), etc. The rules of the game strictly legislate the punishment of deviations of many of these behaviors, especially the ones that lead to time being wasted in the game or the cancellation of a hand.
And it's not only in Japan that mahjong game play generates manners, rituals, and codified behaviors and vocabulary. Also, it's not only because of the central elements of play. Different regional variants introduce locally specific accessories (counting sticks, tile racks, chips, first-east and round-wind markers, tile pushers, dice, different indicators [horse-race chips, yakitori markers, 5th-player bettor]), all of which generate region-specific behaviors and manners around their use.

One more thing to clarify is a notion that could seem implicit in what the OP writes: Mahjong is NOT an ancient game like weiqi (go). The oft-repeated bit that the game is an ancient invention of Chinese wise men, and that it was played by Kǒng Fūzǐ, is shameless marketing poppycock introduced by the American entrepreneur that brought the game to the USA. Some of the game's distant forerunners (in paper card form) date back, perhaps, to the middle ages, but definitely not to antiquity. The game, as we know it today, originated during the final decades of the Qing dynasty (mid to late 19th century) and spread to the world in the early 20th Century.

all_licenses: Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/2.5/


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Strategy for Serenissima
Serenissima is a game of trade during the renaissance. Players have ships to carry the cargo across the Mediterranean. They try to controll the harbor cities in order to set the price and collect the victory points.
Each ship has 5 positions that can be filled with either cargo or sailors. Ships move faster with more sailors and they have better defences but the goal of the game is to move the cargo across the map.
What are good strategies for this game, and are the strategies different with different starting areas?

In the game there are several harbors. Each harbor sells one of seven goods. And each harbor can buy 2, 4 or 6 goods (as long as there are no duplicates and they won't buy their own goods). The sold goods stay there until the end of the game. So goods can become rare quickly. And ironically, the easy goods are depleted first. So you need to focus on them first. Because you need them all to fill the 6 point harbors (not surprisingly the home harbors).
But that does not mean you can mostly ignore the rare goods. Because if your opponent has a monopoly in one good he can determine the price, and that can seriously cripple you.
I reccommend to:

send ships out with 2 or 3 goods to get the most common goods to fill your home harbor.
buy new ships as soon as possible (need some goods in a harbor so think ahead).
try to control at least 1 of the rare goods so you can negotiate prices with other owners.
in the end game, send some ships with 5 people around. To capture ships carrying the last goods and capture as many filled harbors (because they give you points in the end).

source: Stack Exchange

license: Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/2.5/

sort: votes


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Honors point count for holding all four aces in one hand?
Recently, I had a friend say that the rules for points accrued for holding all four aces in one hand have changed. I have always understood that the player received 150 points only if the contract is in no-trump.
She says that the rules have changed so that the points are awarded in any contract, even a trump contract.
Is that a recent change?

No, this has never changed in the Laws of Rubber Bridge (2014).

For holding all four aces in one hand at a no trump contract: 150

In a suit contract the only scoring honours are a holding of four or five of the top five trumps.
From Law 81 - Scoring Table:

license: Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/


text:
What happens if one Carrom Man and the Striker are pocketed on the first shot?
If one Carrom Man (C/M) and the Striker are pocketed on the first shot then what happens?
As per rules we have to return two C/M to the board, but only one has been pocketed.
Will the player have to return an additional C/M to the board later?

all_licenses: Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/


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"A Brief History of the World" - what are the area values over the epochs?
I got "A Brief History of the World" second hand, and I'm not entirely sure if the area value tokens are all there. The area values are not listed anywhere else in the rule book or on the internet as far as I could find. And not every area has a token for each epoch by design, absent tokens for that epoch indicate an area value of 0, so there is no way to check if a token is missing or supposed to not exist.
Can someone with a known-good 'A Brief History of the World' post a table with area values for the epochs?
I specifically only have two tokens for the second epoch, only for north and south Europe.

@ToonKrijthe There are a number of editions of History of the World, of which "A Brief History of the World" is one. A tag history-of-the-world is probably more useful for the site than brief-history-of-the-world

After verifying that the area values of my box are complete, here they are if anyone else is wondering the same (or lost some of the tokens)
Epoch             1   2   3   4   5   6

Northern Europe       1   2           3
Southern Europe   1   2   3           2
North Africa      2                   1
Southern Africa                   1   2
Middle East       3                   2
India             2       3           2
Australasia                       1   2
South East Asia           1   2
China             2       3           2
Eurasia                       1       2
Japan                     1           2
North America                 1   2   3
South America                 1   2

NB 'Eurasia' is labeled 'Asia' on the map

According to boardgamegeek these are the contents of the game:

Giant Map Board
180 plastic playing pieces
130 card counters
32 Area Values

5 x Epoch 1

2 x Epoch 2

6 x Epoch 3 (BGG has 3, but that is a typo).

4 x Epoch 4

4 x Epoch 5

11 x Epoch 6

30 City/Capitals
20 Monuments (4 types x 5)
20 Forts
18 Bonus tokens (1's, 2's 3's - 6 of each)
6 Gold Markers (1 in each player colour)
4 Fleets
42 Empire cards (6 epochs, 7 cards per epoch)
54 Event cards (6 epochs, 7 cards per epoch, plus 12 initial events)
6 Epoch maps
6 Six sided dice
4 Plastic Stands
1 Epoch chart
1 Array

There are 32 area value tokens, specified by epoch.

Great! While my box also lists the contents it doesn't specify the number of area values. This means my set is complete, I'll post a table myself.

But the area values for epoch 3 is wrong. I have 6 of them, which makes the total add to 32 so probably a typo on boardgamegeeks.

Lol, you are right ;-)


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Winning avalanche with all pebbles on avalanche mode?
Is it possible to win avalanche mode with all 48 pebbles able to only use your side? IE the game pidgeon version?
If so, how?

According to this article, you can capture all 48 turn 1 in avalanche mode if an avalanche triggers on both sides.  If you can only place on your side of the board, you can still capture 42 stones on turn 1, which guarantees a victory but not a sweep.


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In a chain, if a card will be banished : can I still activate its effects?
So here's the situation: my opponent has a Vendread Chimera with the following effect (thanks to houndhorde): "Once per turn (Quick Effect): You can target 1 Spell/Trap your opponent controls; banish it".
2 cases :

I activate Switcheroroo (trap card), and as a quick effect, he banishes it with Chimera. Does the switcheroroo effect still happens?
He banishes my switcheroroo (face down) as a quick effect. Can I activate it as a response?

He says the effect of a card doesn't resolve if it is banished in a chain, and he also says I can't activate cards that are going to be banished.
I think exactly the opposite for both cases since it doesn't negate.

The effects of Switcheroroo still happen. There is no negation on Houndhorde. It's like chaining Twister to a trap for example. Trap still goes off.
You can chain your trap to that. He declares he's going to banish > You chain Switcheroroo > Card gets banished > Switcheroroo effect goes off in the chain. The only time this is different is when the card specifically states the card it's targeting (or any card) can't be chained. I can't find an example but I know some cards do state this.

For that last statement, you're absolutely correct. Banishing is just banishing. If it doesn't say it negates, it's not going to be negated.

An example for point 2 can be night beam, do note that you can chain a different card and then you can chain the targeted card


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Yu-gi-oh the big Question about Exodia
Are you able to beat Exodia?
I think you must destroy one of the pieces to him or you can't. Is this true?

Related: https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/35388/how-does-the-new-sangan-errata-affect-exodia  Not a duplicate, but the first answer to that question should answer your question as well.

You can only prevent him from being activated in the hand by removing it from the players hand with cards like "dragged down into the grave". Then maybe soul release to banish it but there are several cards that help Exodia back into their deck or/and hand. Like different dimension burial to recover from banishment, then backup soldier. If I were you I'd always go for the head first because he is catalyst all the other pieces mean nothing without it.

You seem to be coming with the assumption that Exodia is played piece by piece, it is not. The card says (emphasis mine):

If you have "Right Leg of the Forbidden One", "Left Leg of the Forbidden One", "Right Arm of the Forbidden One" and "Left Arm of the Forbidden One" in addition to this card in your hand, you win the Duel.

You won't be able to destroy the parts, but there are ways to handle it in he deck or hand before they get all the pieces. Every piece of Exodia is limited, only one copy per deck, so getting rid of enough parts will ruin it as a win condition, this is also a part of why Exodia is not a common strategy to play.
Sending cards to grave or banishing them can help you with this, however interaction with both means that is not a guarantee they will stay in grave or banished. Some examples:

Burial from a Different Dimension - can put up to three monsters, up to three parts of Exodia, back into the grave from banish.
Dark Erruption - Return a dark monster from the grave to the hand, all parts of exodia are dark.
Dark Factory of Mass Production - Return up to two normal monsters from the grave to the hand, all but the core part of Exodia is normal.


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Why people have to play every card and do the longest combo before closing?
So usually when I get to low HP and have no cards to fight, I pass the turn so that the opponent can finish me off. But 99% of the times they have to play every card they can and just waste time with animation. So why?
I just want to end and go on the next game. Why can't they have the satisfaction of delivering the final blow and finish it. At that point I just waste their time in return by waiting up my timer, especially if they pass without killing me.

This is more of a rant than a question. Do you not have the option of simply resigning when you know you've lost?

"At that point i just waste their time in return by waiting up my timer"... you are asking why people display bad sportsmanship online; while admitting that you yourself display bad sportsmanship online?

Your best course of action is probably just to hit esc then concede if you believe you have already lost the game. Often times if people are playing out their hand after they have already won it is because they are trying to complete their daily "Cast X Black or Green spells" quests or something similar.

I didn't know about the daily quests... I think this actually changes things; a good answer can come from this.

There are multiple reasons that a player may be doing this.

Players have been building up to a certain game state; and they want to see their deck actually do what it was built to do. I know in casual/friendly games, my friends and I have been known to do crazy things like attack for 100 damage on the last turn; even though it was overkill for just winning the game. It can be fun to see your deck do crazy things.
MTG Arena features quests, which reward you with Gold for completing certain challenges, such as "attack with 45 creatures". An opponent may be trying to achieve one of these; which could require doing more than the minimum to just win a game.
They may be just being extra cautious to ensure a win. You might think they can simply attack with their creatures against you not having blockers and win the game, but they don't know whether or not you're holding a Fog in hand or not. You can help prevent this issue by completely tapping out before your turn is over. Though depending on the types of decks being played; they may still not be able to know for sure that they can win right now.
It could be that some players are just exhibiting bad sportsmanship, as you assume. They aren't thinking about how it feels to the player that is losing. They think winning isn't enough; they want to completely crush you.

The best solution to this is simply to resign when you know you've lost. Instead of passing your turn, forfeit the match. This saves them time as well.
The worst "solution" is to try and retaliate by wasting their time. That makes you the "bad guy" in this situation; it would be completely reasonable of them to complain about someone they played with that purposefully slow-played them to waste their time when they knew the game was over. Acting this way will simply make for a bad experience for everyone.

Your "quests" link is hosed.

I think your point about not being sure that they can win now is a good one as there are times when I have noticed after my attack that I could have won the game with the last attack but I was to caught up in being careful that I overlooked the easy win.

The quests thing is a BIG one, one of the common quests are play X cards between two colors. I would get a bit upset that people conceded not because I cared about the finishing blow, but because I was going to play a few more spells and finish a quest, that now has to move into a new game.


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3 - 7's with an ace
We had a hand that was 3 - 7's with an ace in hand and then the cut card came up as an ace. How many points would this be.
We were confused and figured it was 12 or 24 points?

Neither, as it scores 20 points in the Show. The Rules of Cribbage specify that one scores "pairs" and "fifteens" as combinations.

The Show
Each player then counts the score of the four cards in his hand plus the turned up card. The non-dealer shows first and this is important because it can often make the difference between winning and losing.

Fifteen - All combinations of cards that add up to fifteen count 2 points.

A pair, a pair royal or a double pair royal - count 2, 6 or 12 respectively.

....

Note that:

the term pair royal is shorthand for the three combinations of two (ie a pair) available from three by omitting each one in turn.
This can be visualized by placing the three cards in a triangle and noting that the three sides are the pairs available to be scored.

the term double pair royal is shorthand for the six combinations of two (ie a pair) available from four by omitting two in turn.
This can be visualized by placing the four cards in a diamond, and noting that not only the four sides, but also the two diagonals are the (now six) pairs available for scoring.

Then so this hand scores (as there are no runs, flushes, or "his nobs") as:

with 1st ace, omitting each seven in turn:

fifteen-2, fifteen-4, fifteen-6*,

with 2nd ace, again omitting each seven in turn:

fifteen-8, fifteen-10, fifteen-12*;

for the sevens, again omitting each seven in turn:

a pair royal of sevens makes 18;

for the aces:

and a pair of aces makes 20.


text:
Must you have an uncompleted destination card in Ticket to Ride?
Put another way, once you complete the destinations on your initial destination cards, do you have to draw a new destination card or can you play without having an uncompleted destination?

Drawing Destination cards later in the game is optional - the only time you have to draw Destination cards is at the start of the game.
If you finish all of yours early enough then it may be worth drawing more, but if you finish them later in the game it would be unproductive to draw more, and your efforts are better spent trying to block other players.
Since Destination cards are always kept secret from other players until scoring, any rule that did say you had to have incomplete Destination cards would be based entirely on trust.

It's not always unproductive to draw more destination cards late in the game.  Sometimes you can get lucky and draw one (or more) that you already have covered by your existing trains on the board; netting you extra points "for free".  It's a gamble though.


text:
Diplomacy - Movement question
Lets say we have

F Bar-StP
F Nwy S F Bar-StP
F StP-Nwy

Does the support from Norway get cut from the fleet in St. Petersburg?  And as such stopping the movement of the Fleet in the Barents sea from moving into St. Petersburg?

Please clarify if these are the orders of one country or two and if so, which orders belong to which country

If these are all orders from one country, nothing happens.  From the rules:

A country cannot dislodge or support the dislodgement of one of its own units

If "F StP -> Nwy" is a different country from the other two orders, the unit in StP is dislodged.  From the rules:

Support is cut if the unit giving support is attacked from any province except the one where support is being given.

No you can not cut support to your own attack.
I tried this in jDip and the result was that the support was not cut. The fleet from Bar went to StP and the fleet in StP was destroyed.
This is logical else you could stop two units with a single unit.


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Isareth the Awakener and championing
Scenario:
Isareth the Awakener returns Llanowar Elves to play.
I play Changeling Hero and exile Llanowar elves.
Changeling Hero is destroyed.
Does Llanowar elves get returned by the champion trigger?

agreed, it is a duplicate

It would be returned; Isareth’s last sentence doesn’t do anything.
The replacement effect doesn’t actually apply, beause “instead of putting it anywhere else” means “instead of going to Exile”. Because it is going to Exile anyway; it doesn’t matter.


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Last turn in Ticket to Ride: clarification
I am asking about Ticket to Ride Europe, but if possible I would prefer a generic answer.
Let's say player A claims a route and remains with 1 car. This, per rules, starts the last turn.
When it is again player A's turn, assuming all the needed cards are available, can any route be claimed, or only routes with length 1?

For what it's worth, the app will not let you do this (ie you can't place more train cars than you physically have).

He can only claim a route with length 1 because he only has one train.
You will not magically get more trains because it is the last turn so all normal rules still apply.
By the rules:

Game End
When one player’s stock of colored plastic trains gets down to only 0,1 or 2 trains left at the end of his turn, each player, including that player, gets
one final turn. The game then ends and players calculate their final scores.

There is no mention of different rules for the last turns so normal rule apply.

Is Player A required to use their final turn? If Player A has 1 or 2 trains left, and has cards to play them, I can't think of a reason not to claim the route in their second-last turn.

You are not required to claim a route. You can even draw new cards. But you can't use them anymore.
But the wisest move to do is claim the highest valued route you can.

So Player A is required to use their final turn, but if they can't claim a route, they can simply draw (unusable) train cards, or gamble and draw route cards to see if they match any routes already claimed, correct?

It is not explicit in the rules. They say they each have a last turn. Any you can do any of the three actions in a turn.

@LarsKristensen On their 2nd to last turn, they played trains (otherwise, how did they go down to 0, 1 or 2 trains).  You can only play 1 set of trains per turn.  So if they are playing tactically, they could have the cards for another route and the trains as well they "held back" for their last turn.

The official online game requires a normal last turn for the last player, and drawing cards is the standard "do nothing" way to end the game.

This situation is not explicitly covered by the Game End rules. However, since not all the steps of claiming a route (see below) can be executed, I'd interpret not having enough colored trains as an illegal move. Therefore, the final player can only build routes with length 1 (or 2 if they had 2 trains left).

Claim a Route - The player claims a route on the board by playing a set of Train
  cards from his hand that match the color and quantity of the spaces that make up
  the route. He places one of his colored trains on each space, and scores the number
  of points indicated on the Route Scoring Table for that route’s length;

(link to Ticket to Ride Europe rules; other versions are similarly worded)


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Tri-Gate effect
So here is one I wish to know:
I use Tri-Gate second effect, which allows me to target and banish one card on the field. Then I link that with another monster to bring out another link. Tri-Gate would be in the graveyard but then I use transcodes effect (1 of the 3 co-links) to bring it back from the graveyard.
Can I use the second effect again?

Youtuber dzeeff recently did a video on this about hard/soft once-per-turn effects.
In the case you bring up, Trigate has a soft once-per-turn effect. This means that specific card instance if you will has that restriction. If you bring that same card out again in another instance that restriction is gone and you can use it again.
A hard once-per-turn effect however, restricts all copies and instances of the monster/spell/trap. Even if you go out your way to bring out another copy of that monster, the effect will still not be triggered.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TaDmB-IxSV4

Yes you can.
The rule with once per turn effects is as follows:
If the cards simply says, "once per turn you can..." or any variation on this. It basically means once per turn, per card. If the monster is removed from the field and summoned again, this state resets because it no longer counts as the same card.
On the other hand if the cards states something along the lines of "you can only use this effect of "Monster Name" once per turn", then the effect can only be used once per turn for any card with that name. That includes any other physical copies of that monster you would summon.


text:
Can I find a recorded game of nine mens morris?
I was trying to find dataset from some nine mens morris professional games. But I couldn't find it.
Is there someone who can help me with this?

Why vote to close? The question is about a computer-based version of board game.

I've reopened, I don't see a reason to close this.  However, this sounds like you are looking for help with another question. You might want to consider asking your original question .. the one for which you've already determined that you need a dataset to answer.

Board Game Arena has an implementation of the game with
15,156 of games played.
https://en.boardgamearena.com/#!gamepanel?game=ninemensmorris
I think they might share with you this data, if they do, please let us know
https://en.boardgamearena.com/#!contact


text:
I can't find this game or remember the name
I am looking for a game that is played with all the cards in the deck. The cards are placed in a single row, face up, one next to the other. The object is to remove as many as possible. However the rules state you can only remove the cards that are the same in suit or rank, and only if they lie next to the card or three cards to the left.
Example: if you have a 9 diamond, 6 spade, 4 club,  2 diamond, 2 heart, 3 club, K spade, etc. etc..
The 3 club can be moved to the 4 club and the 4 club is removed. The same with the 2 heart, and the 2 diamond. But it would be better to use the 2 diamond to remove the 9 diamond and then the 2 heart to remove the 2 diamond.
I have been looking for this game for years, used to play it all the time but now I can't find it anywhere.

Is this a solo game or multiplayer?

Sounds like Accordion:

Cards are dealt in a single row, from Left to Right [...]  The goal is
  to move cards onto each other, removing the lower card,  until a
  single card remains. A card may be moved onto a card on  its direct
  left, or third on left, if the card matches the [suit or value] of the
  destination card.

http://www.allgoodsw.com/sol_rules.html#accordion
And see the Wiki Entry for variants.


text:
Does an ally count as a path?
With Redemption Seeker, whenever you attempt a triumph or radiance path, you gain a virtue. If an ally like Sister or True Love, which have triumph in their header, is on a challenge, would you gain virtue even if the path didn't have triumph listed in it originally? And if you do would you gain two virtue if the path has triumph in it?
Similarly, for Reluctant Villain, if you add an ally with triumph, does that count as adding a triumph path to your story for the purposes of receiving a hero card? If so, if it was a path with triumph originally, do you gain two hero cards then?


text:
Coins Gained on Moving - Scythe
When using the move action, do I gain coins in an equal number of the number of units I decide to move (up to 2)?

The / means "or".  You may move up to two units or you may take the amount of coins on your play mat.


text:
Red eyes darkness metal dragon ruling
If I use red eyes dmd effect to bring a dragon from the graveyard then send red eyes dmd to the graveyard and then bring it back in the same turn, is it treated as a new monster resetting it so I can re-use its effect to special summon another monster?

Yes, you can do that.
This comes down to the same rulings involving this question:
Tri-Gate effect
Basically, the rule with once per turn effects is as follows:
If the cards simply says, "once per turn you can..." or any variation on this. It basically means once per turn, per card. If the monster is removed from the field and summoned again, this state resets because it no longer counts as the same card.
On the other hand if the cards states something along the lines of "you can only use this effect of "Monster Name" once per turn", then the effect can only be used once per turn for any card with that name. That includes any other physical copies of that monster you would summon.

+1 Correct. A friend of mine played Chaos Dragons and his main combo revolved around this ruling allowing him to use Darkness's effect twice by bringing him back from the GY (with Lightpulsar Dragon). I think this also applies if Red-eyes Darkness was flipped down (by, say book of moon), as it "resets" it's effect by "forgetting" which card it was, and also, as you say, by leaving the field

@DarkCygnus Correct. A more complete way if stating it would be: Once while the card remains face up and on the field.


text:
Can a space marine chapter consist of marines from other chapters?
I'm new to warhammer so I wanted to know if I could run a custom space marine chapter and then use soldiers from other factions
For example could I run a space marines chapter that included soldiers from the grey knight or space wolves faction?

Yes.
The requirement is that your army all share a keyword, for space marines that could be simply Adeptus Astartes, but you could go further than that to use any Imperal troop or vehicle. You cannot mix beyond that, no adding Eldar to your imperial force, they do not share any keywords.
There are downsides to this. As more chapter specific codices are released, you could find some of the choices only really benefit your say Space Wolves, but not your Ultramarines. You could have options that only benefit your Adeptus Astartes, but not your Imperial Guard.

Yes and no.
There are records of armies being "built" from other chapters such as The Deathwatch. The only problem is that as the rest say, you lose a lot of special rules and you have to try and make your army's different components work together, which can be tough.

This does not appear to add anything new that was not addressed in a different answer.

license: Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0/


text:
Can I create a colour scheme for a custom chapter and the apply it to other chapters?
So what I mean is, could I make a colour scheme for my Space Marines and then use that same colour scheme for Grey Knights or Adeptus Mechanicus or Astra Militarum?

FWIW you might consider doing "variants" of your color schemes for different factions... So they tie together, but are also distinct.

You can honestly play the game with unpainted miniatures, nothing prevents you from using your own color schemes, and many people do, though if you intend to be using these forces together in a mixed imperial army, it's best your color scheme between the different subgroups of your army is clear, so effects don't accidentally get applied to a unit from the wrong arm of the Imperium of Man.
Coloring a Mechanicus unit the Yellow and Black of your Imperial Fists could cause you to accidentally apply First Captain Lysander's Icon of Obstinacy to them, when it only applies to his own chapter's units.

all_licenses: Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0/


text:
In Scrabble if you use all your letters to make up a word, do you get an extra points?
In Scrabble, if you are able to use all your letters to make a word, do you get
any extra points?

Yes, assuming you have a full hand of seven tiles. From the rules:

BINGO! If you play seven tiles on a turn, it's a Bingo. You score a premium of 50 points after totaling your score for the turn.

If you have fewer than 7 tiles at the end of the game, playing them all doesn't get you this bonus.

And that guys, is how to turn a game with tiles and letters into a game with balls and numbers.

@ToonKrijthe https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/q/2218/6352


text:
Play diplomacy offline
I am with a group of friends and we want to play Diplomacy. However we don't have the map, or a printer.
So I was thinking that maybe there is some app or website in which there is the map and we can all play on. However if I search online for Diplomacy, all the websites are online multiplayer versions of Diplomacy. I am looking for something that serves just like a board game version, where the moves for all the players are done manually.

This is an odd question - you're basically asking how to play a board game without buying the board game. Would you ask the same question for Catan?

I like to use jDip. It is easy to use, and provides several maps.

There are many places to play Diplomacy online

Play Diplomacy
BackStabbr
webDiplomacy
Stabbeurfou
DPJudge
Edit
I didn't read that well enough. You want fully manual games. Well then you can try Vassal or maybe Tabletop Simulator I don't know if you can play Tabletop Simulator on one computer if that's one of your goals but in both cases you should have full control of everything. As a matter of fact you could do play by email games by emailing Vassal save-states but I don't have a lot of experience in that.

The OP asked for an offline solution ;-).

Oh snap my mistake. That explains why none of the many many online implementations had already been suggested. That's on me and my reading comprehensions. -- E-- actually it looks liek not so much offline but manual movements.


text:
playing off previous runs?
For Rummycube, after the 30 point meld can you build vertically off a run?
To illustrate, is this possible?
6 7 8 9
    8
    8

In addition if you had a gold, blue and a red 1, can you add to the same gold 1 going vertically a blue  and red 1?

It's unclear what you mean by "vertical."  Are you asking if you can build a set using a number that is already part of a run?

Yes, say a black run 3-4-5 on the board, can you add a red and blue 5 vertically. Or would you be able to play a black 3 and 4 off the 5?

Sorry it was unclear, I tried to post a picture but had trouble.

You can not add tiles vertically like a crossword(number) puzzle. If a set has 4 or more tiles you can move one of them to create a new set. As long as the remaining sets are valid.
For example if 3,4,5,6 is on the table and you have two 6 (all three of different color) you can move the 6 and create a new set with your two 6 tiles. Getting 3,4,5 and 6,6,6.


text:
Cardgame where participants have to guess the situation based on hints
I played once at a friend's house a game where you picked a card that gave hints like 'John entered Bob's house and went out without clothes'. You had to guess why this happens. During the game, you get additional hints (like 'John is alergic to nickel') until you found the reason.
I remember there was a little statue on the table (I don't remember exactly why, maybe you can speak only if you hold it?).
What is the name of this game?

It sounds like 3 Secrets, except for the statue part.

Can you give any more details about how long ago it was that you played it?

I played around 8 years ago and the game was in german.. and thank you very much @the chant 2.0 , I am quite sure it was 3 secrets :)

It's called "Black Stories" and is published by moses in various volumes. But it's (almost) always about guessing how somebody got (him-/herself) killed.
As far as I know, there's only one English edition of "Black Stories" out, but there are several German ones.
Z-Man published a similar game called "Dark Stories", which is in English as well.

thank you! I don't think is 'black stories' because it has no little statue.. but I'm going to buy it anyway as it seems fun :)

You're very welcome. There's also another edition I'll inlcude in my answer in a moment.

There is also White Stories, a supernatural spin-off.


text:
Where does mana come from?
So I am reading the rulebook of magic the gathering. I haven't played it but I am curious about the game. In the rule book, I didn't see how much mana you start off with. For example Naga Vitalist.
If you have one forest land card on the field can you summon her? My understanding was that you had to have 2 land cards on the field since she requires two mana. Do you start off with a certain number and type of mana in your mana pool? How much mana does a land produce and how is that determined?

Welcome to the site! We hope that you'll stick around. Check out the tour if you haven't already.

Well, mana comes from... well, when a mommy Planeswalker loves a daddy Planeswalker very much...

Mana is an abstract resource produced by abilities and spell[1], though most commonly by the intrinsic activated abilities of basic lands (e.g. Forest).

305.6. The basic land types are Plains, Island, Swamp, Mountain, and Forest. [...] A land with a basic land type has the intrinsic ability “{T}: Add [mana symbol],” even if the text box doesn’t actually contain that text or the object has no text box. For Plains, [mana symbol] is {W}; for Islands, {U}; for Swamps, {B}; for Mountains, {R}; and for Forests, {G}. [...]

This means that every Forest has an ability that produces one green mana at the cost of tapping the Forest.
I say "green mana" instead of just "mana" because mana comes in each of the five colors, and it can also be colorless.
Naga Vitalist's mana cost consists of 1 green mana and 1 generic mana. The generic mana cost can be met by paying mana of any color or colorless mana. So, to be able to cast Naga Vitalist, you will need to produce this much mana (e.g. by using the intrinsic abilities of two Forest).
"Mana pool" refers to the mana you have produced but not yet used. It empties at the end of each step and phase, so you can't carry mana you produce on in turn into the next (for example).
You can read more about it here.

In the rule book I didn't see how much mana you start off with.

You do not start with any mana, or even any means to obtain mana. You will need to play lands first.

My understanding was that you had to have 2 land cards on the field since she requires two mana.

Basically, yes, though they need to be untapped.

Do you start off with a certain number and type of mana in your mana pool?

No. In fact, it's constantly being emptied. Mana basically need to be produced immediately when needed.

How much mana does a land produce and how is that determined?

Each basic land produces one colored mana (white for Plains, blue for Islands, green for Forest, red for Mountains, black for Swamps) by tapping it.

For example, Naga Vitalist's ability produces mana.

No, you don't start with any mana at all. The way you get mana is by casting spells or activating abilities which make mana for you.
By far the most common way of making mana is by tapping a land. For example, a Forest (on the battlefield, not in your hand or library or anywhere else) has an ability that says

{T}: Add {G} to your mana pool.

Here "{T}" stands for "tap this permanent" and "{G}" stands for one green mana. It's a little confusing because most Forest cards don't have this ability written on them, but if you look at an old Forest you'll see it written out explicitly. With newer lands, though, you just have to remember that any land which has the subtype "Forest" (check on the type line in the middle of the card) has that ability, even if it doesn't say so on the card. The same goes for other basic land types, but with other colors: Mountain (red), Island (blue), Plains (white), Swamp (black), and Wastes (colorless).
There are many other lands, and most of them have their own mana-producing abilities, but they will typically say so on the card itself.
Many other permanents that are not lands can also produce mana. Naga Vitalist itself is one example, although you do have to get her on to the battlefield first, and for that, as you noticed, you will need two mana, one green and one which can be any color. The most common way to do this is by having two lands in play, but if you find some way to make two mana (one being green) without having two lands, that's a perfectly fine way to pay Naga Vitalist's cost.

Of (minor) note, the actual text of the ability a Forest implicitly has is just "{T}: Add {G}." as of Dominaria. Supposedly this reduces confusion.

@KamilDrakari 'supposedly' but specific is better than brief. Though honestly the actual wording of the implicit ability doesn't matter since it's not actually written on the cards, people learn how it works, the wording doesn't matter.

Though it is no longer printed on the cards, all lands with a basic land type have the ability to tap for one mana, determined by the type for that land. So Islands tap for 1 blue, Swamps tap for 1 black. Nonbasic lands don't always tap for mana, but most do, and those that do either have a basic land type, like Breeding Pool, which gives them the abilities of that basic type, or say how they make mana, like Simic Guildgate.
Your mana pool is empty at the start of each step and phase of each turn, unless an effect stops it from emptying, like Omnath, Locus of Mana, or gives you mana, like Frontier Siege, at the start of a step or phase of the turn.
And there are other ways to make mana, besides using lands. Birds of Paradise is one of the more famous examples of a creature that taps for mana, there are also artifacts that tap for mana, like Sol Ring, rituals that
cost mana to cast but give you more back Dark Ritual and a few cards that create mana in other ways like Channel and Elvish Spirit Guide.


text:
Re-equipping monsters to a ranked up monster
If I have an equip monster attached to Utopia and I use the rank up spell to bring out another utopia. Would my equip monster be destroyed or would it stay on the field attached to the new utopia on the field?

Hey there Scarlet, were you able to read and consider my answer?

Would my equip monster be destroyed or would it stay on the field attached to the new utopia on the field?

Say you got some card, like ZW - Leo Arms, attached to your Number 39: Utopia.
If you rank-up your Utopia, it becomes an XYZ material of the new card you rank-up summoned. In this case, as Utopia is no longer face-up on the field, Leo Arms would then "lose" its target, and be destroyed and sent to the graveyard (or wherever it should go).
From the Equip cards wikia page:

If the equipped monster is no longer face-up on the field, or is no longer a valid target, the Equip Card is immediately destroyed.


text:
Canasta opening with jokers
Can you open with 5 wild cards, then use a sixth to put with a pair?
My partner needed 155 points and this is the only way they could open.

What do you mean by your partner needing 155 points? That's not one of the possible values of a minimum meld.

We start at 125, the. 155, then 180. Canasta

Just a house rule?

No.
Any valid meld in Canasta needs to have at least 2 naturals in it, so wilds by themselves are not enough.
From Bicycle:

A meld is valid if it contains at least two natural cards of the same rank - aces down to fours inclusive - and not more than three wild cards. Jokers and deuces may never be melded apart from natural cards.

Note that there is a variation of this rule that is seen in some places; according to canasta.net:

However, there may never be more wildcards than natural cards within one meld.

In most situations, these 2 rules work the same way; they both mean that a meld of 3 -7 cards must have at least as many naturals as wilds.
The difference is that one of the rules allows you to add a 4th wild to a Canasta that has 4 naturals and 3 wilds, while the other does not, but this rarely could matter, as you can likely just add that wild somewhere else instead if you need to.


text:
International rules for a king how many moves can the king take if there are no opposition pieces to jump?
We started to place international rules and just watch a video on youtube that seems to indicate, that a king cannot move unlimited spaces if there are no opposition pieces to jump. Is this correct?
Second question, Is my assumption correct in as much that once a king has jumped one or more pieces in one direction, that after jumping the last opposition piece the king can be moved beyond the last jump piece to any square beyond that will allow the king to take another direction if there is an opposition piece that can be jumped. Is that correct?

I'm not quite sure what you're asking. Are you saying a king can jump over a piece and land any distance beyond it?

In international rules, the King can move any distance along a diagonal. This holds true whether jumping over a piece or not.
A king is still subject to the rule that it must make a jump if it can, and it must make as many jumps as it can.
So after jumping over a piece, you can choose how far beyond that piece to land. But if one of the spaces beyond the captured piece would allow the king to turn and capture another piece, it must choose to do that.

I would not think of it as the king moving along the diagonal after a jump; but rather as the jump landing on any square beyond the captured piece.
Reference: https://www.itsyourturn.com/t_helptopic2130.html#helpitem1330

Then, it there are no possibilities for a jump for your king  - you can move the king as many places as you wish in one direction - correct?  That is you are not limited to move the king without a jump only 1 place ?

@Duck Correct, that is what my first paragraph is saying.

Gendolkari.  Thank you for the reconfirmation!  May I ask you the Country and City you are living in ?  Me, I am currently living in Nice, France.  Have a great day.  Bon weekend!! The Duck


text:
texas holdem full house showing in table, splitting pot among players
Texas holdem, KKK22 full house showing on table.
Player 2 has the K2 hole cards to make the same full house, is the pot split among all players or is it player 2 pot?

If player 2 has K2 in the hole and the community cards are KKK22, then player 2 has KKKK2 as their best hand, 4 of a kind, which beats everyone else's community full house.
That being said, if everyone had their hand made up of the community cards, or perhaps someone had a 2, matching the pair (which has to be lower than the three of the kind), the hand is a push and all players still in the game at that point get an equal share of the pot, or whatever of the pots they are still in (If short stacked players go all in, that can create side pots between those that had more chips left and still bet). Only 5 cards per player matter in holdem, and in most poker variants in general, whether they come from the hole, the river, the turn or the flop doesn't have any bearing on who wins and loses.


text:
Who won this Texas Hold’em hand?

Since both players have the same pair, should it go down to the suits, or are they supposed to split the pot?

Split the pot. There is no real ranking of suits, so suit only matters for a flush.

It doesn't matter in a flush either: you can't have two flushes with different suits in a single hand of THE. ;)

@Galandil true. All I meant was that suit matters for flushes because that's what makes a flush a flush, being one suit.


text:
How can I modify Green Tron to better combat Aggro Spirits?
I realise this post might be broad, but I’m struggling to find cards to beat an Aggro spirit deck. I’m playing green tron and my opponent has a spirit deck which with the flyers is taking me down too much by the time I get my tron lands down.
Are there any modern cards that will help destroy a spirit deck aiming to get many Spirits down which boost each other?
Or if Tron isn’t the right deck, what decks work well vs a spirit deck?
My deck is as follows

Lands

Urza’s mine x4
Urza’s Power Plant x4
Urza Tower x 4
Basic land Forest  x4

Artifacts

Expedition Map x4
Planar Bridge  x2
Treasure map x 1
Oblivion Stone x 4
Chromatic Star x4
Mana Vault x1

Planeswalker

Karn, scion of Urza x1

Sorceries

All is Dust x1
Sylvan Scrying x 4
Ancient Stirrings x4

Instants

Natures Claim x3
Haze of Pollen x2
Commencement of Festivities x2
Swell of growth x1
Crop Rotation x1

Creatures

Deceiver of form x2
End Bringer x2
Conduit of Ruin x2
It That Betrays x2
Platinum Angel x2
Kozilek, the Great Distortion x1
Emrakul, the Promised End x1
Emrakul, the Aeons Tornx1

Sideboard

Skittering Invasion x2
Wrapping Wail x2
Titan’s Presence x 4
Not of This World x2
Loxodon warhammer x2
Endbringer x1
Conduit of Ruin x1
Artisan of Kozilek x1

By the way, I recently put in the instances to try slow him down

Best of three normally, we do sideboard.. but I hardly sideboard because I don’t have anything in my side board to help me out vs his spirits.. I’ll add my sideboard to the list

Without knowing much about deck building, my immediate thought was Hurricane.

Closest modern legal card I can think of is scapeshift, but at 4 times the cost may not be worthwhile

Mana Vault isn't legal in anything but Vintage and Commander.  If you're playing Vintage, your deck is missing some power 9

Two cards you are already running 1x that you may want more of vs Spirits in particular:

Endbringer: for pinging small spirits (and Noble Hierarch)
All is Dust: for one-sided board wipes

Other cards that often show up in Tron that you may want to consider:

World Breaker: reach and removal; you already have the green to cast it.
Ulamog, the Ceaseless Hunger: a finisher with a good effect on cast
Ugin, the Spirit Dragon: either recurring removal or spot removal and a damage sink
Wurmcoil Engine: a beater that gains you life


text:
Split Second or Can not Be Countered
Is split second just another way of saying “this card can’t be countered”? To me, it has no other qualities? Once this card is removed from the stack opponents are then free to cast spells. So I’m guessing we just treat this as a can’t be countered spell despite its fancy naming convention or can it do more than what I’m perceiving?

Split Second has uses other than making a spell uncounterable.
As a simple example, say you cast Sudden Shock; targeting a creature with only 2 toughness. If not for Split Second, your opponent could save the creature by casting a spell any spell that does any of the following:

Increases the creature’s toughness
Gives the creature Hexproof
Gives the creature protection from your spell
Regenerates the creature
Prevents the damage

Several ways he could save his creature. But due to Split Second, he can’t respond at all; and the creature will almost certainly die.
Similarly if you cast Sudden Shock targeting your opponent who has 2 life. He can’t cast anything that will increase his own life.
There are all sorts of ways other than countering a spell that you might want to respond to a spell. Split Second prevents all of them.
While Split Second is generally more powerful than “cannot be countered” due to the reasons stated; in some cases “cannot be countered” will work better, such as if there’s a triggered ability that counters spells, such as the emblem from Jace, Unraveler of Secrets.

tapping pristine talisman for mana could gain life in response to split second damage, right?

@ikegami the rules text specifically says "abilities that aren't mana abilities"

You can also bounce it / blink it.

An additional exception is that you can "unmorph" a creature in response to a Split Second spell, because that is a "Special Action" not an activated ability. Doing so will often cause another ability to trigger, which can include countering the split second spell

@KamilDrakari Wow, I never knew that unmorphing a creature wasn't an activated ability. The more you know :D

Voidmage Apprentice can use that rule to counter a spell with split second.

@Gendolkari's answer is a great answer for why "Split Second" is more powerful than "Can't be countered".  I'd like to add a supplement for all of the reasons why it is weaker.
Here's how to counter a split second spell:

Triggered abilities that counter spells, such as the emblem from Jace, Unraveler of Secrets, Erayo's Essence, Chalice of the Void, Kira, Great Glass-Spinner, Counterbalance, Chancellor of the Annex, or Decree of Silence.
Triggered abilities that give you other triggered abilities that let let you counter spells, such as Hunting Grounds or Lurking Predators putting a Mystic Snake or a Draining Whelk onto the battlefield.
Unmorphing a creature (which is a special action that is allowed while a split second card is on the stack) that counters the spell, such as Voidmage Apprentice, Stratus Dancer, or Silumgar Spell-Eater

No, split second refers to how a spell can be responded to.
For instance, Krosan Grip has split second, but with a successful Counterbalance flip, can be countered. Split second doesn't itself make the spell uncounterable, it just prevents the majority of ways the spell would be countered from happening (casting a counterspell, etc.)
From the comprehensive rules

702.60. Split Second
702.60a Split second is a static ability that functions only while the spell with split second is on the
  stack. “Split second” means “As long as this spell is on the stack, players can’t cast other spells
  or activate abilities that aren’t mana abilities.”
702.60b Players may activate mana abilities and take special actions while a spell with split second
  is on the stack. Triggered abilities trigger and are put on the stack as normal while a spell with
  split second is on the stack.

This answer doesn’t seem to address the core question; what does split second do that “cannot be countered” doesn’t?

@gendoI respectfully disagree. I defined what split second does (changes how the spell can be responded to), then gave a useful example, and provided the rules citation to show exactly what split second provides from the comprehensive rules. Each part is useful in ensuring that the OP has a full understanding of the interaction between split second and 'counter' effects.

Perhaps we just read ththe question differently. At least part of what he asked is if Split Second can do more than make a spell unable to be countered.

For what it's worth, I do agree: the OP asked in multiple ways if split second does anything besides preventing countering, so while it's certainly nice to cite the comprehensive rules and explain why it doesn't entirely prevent countering, there's still a big part of the question left unaddressed. Your answers will definitely be better received if you aim to address the whole question.

Split Second can be used to ensure you do things while holding priority when casting spells. Ex. You cast Damnation, holding priority you cast Sudden Spoiling (Split Second). This would leave no one able to respond except through triggered abilities and special actions IF they have any.
There are a few jank ways to utilize Split Second, most forget about Players holding priority when responding or using the stack, so it helps to bring that up as well.

Players go through another "priority cycle" after any spell resolves.  That means after Sudden Spoiling resolves, each player would have the opportunity to cast a spell in response to Damnation.

I'm not quite sure what you're trying to get at here.  You could certainly do that combination of actions, but once Sudden Spoiling resolves but before Damnation resolves other players would be able to respond to Damnation.

How does that happen when Split Second does not allow players to add on to the stack when a spell with Split Second is on the stack. The point of the statement i made is that due to what Split Second's reminder text states, this allows you to in a way be able to protect crucial spells you cast as the example i gave. Damnation would still be on the stack with Split Second, resolve and Split Second still apply even after the spell with it resolves. Correct me if im wrong.

@Cinema You misunderstand how it works. Split second prevents them from responding while it is on the stack, however sudden spoiling will resolve, then Damnation will be alone on the stack, with nothing preventing anyone from putting spells on the stack that will resolve before Damnation does. The only spell split second protects is the spell with split second itself. It does not modify anything else on the stack.


text:
End of turn special powers
Just a bit of confusion associated with how exactly the end of the turn would be scored.
Let's say hypothetically I start with ghouls+spirits and put them into decline and get wizards+forest as my next combination.
When counting points, would ghouls standing on a forest receive a point or is this exclusive to the wizards.

The race and power combination is not tied to your other races. So the forest points only count for the wizards in your example.

Your Active race and your In Decline race(s) are scored independently of each other. A race's Special Power only applies to that race. From the rulebook (section II, p8):

Each Special Power badge gives a unique benefit to the race it is
  associated with.

(emphasis added)

Also note that with a few exceptions, the special power badge is inactive when they go into decline. This largely depends on the special power badge itself (what appears when you flip over the badge and race when the race is in decline.)


text:
Can I mix same races but different factions in one army 40k
Please forgive me but I am incredibly new to warhammer and the other answer didn’t really make sense, could I mix Drukhari and Harlequins?

Short answer
Yes.
Longer answer
Yes, but thinking in terms of "races" isn't the determining factor (it effectively is, as far as I know, but it isn't the language used by the rules).
In 8th edition 40k, there are three styles of play: Open, Narrative, and Matched. In Open and Narrative, you can just bring what you want and play. Though there are additional rules that can be added which may bring restrictions (like detachments). In Matched, you are required to use the detachments rules, where most detachments require the units in the detachment to be from the same faction. Factions are just keywords that are given with a unit's datasheet.
Since you're asking Drukhari and Harlequins (and I happen to have reference materials for them):

Harlequin's Troupe unit has the Faction Keywords "Aeldari", "Harlequins", and "<Masque>".
Drukhari's Kabalite Warriors unit has the Faction Keywords "Aeldari", "Drukhari", and "<Kabal>".

Since both these units share at least one Faction Keyword ("Aeldari"), they can be included in the same detachment.
Additional Information
If you are playing with the armies' codexes, each faction benefits substantially from being in a detachment with ONLY units from that codex (and potentially even more specific than the codex). Each codex has options for sub-factions that give additional abilities to your units, you probably noticed the Faction Keywords that had "<" and ">" above, these are to determine your units' sub-faction (Drukhari are especially complicated, as they have three types of sub-faction, "Kabals", "Wych Cults", and "Haemonculus Covens").
Update:
Per the 2018 Big FAQ 2: The Battle Brothers rule was updated to "All of the units in each detachment in your Battle-forged army must have at least one Faction keyword in common. In addition, this keyword cannot be CHAOS, IMPERIUM, AELDARI, YNNARI, or TYRANIDS, unless the Detachment is question is a Fortification Network. This has no effect on your army Faction."
This means that two detachments with the AELDARI keyword can be included in the same army, but the AELDARI keyword is no longer enough to include units into the same detachment.

It's worth noting that matching "race" isn't even a decisive factor. Genestealer Cults for example can have both Humans (guardsman) and Tyranids (Purestrains) in the same detachment.


text:
Time Stories Asylum: Missing card 59
We are currently playing above game and card no. 59 is missing. Could anyone please post the text on the back?

The question is also asked on boardgamegeek. The back of the card looks like:

The text is: "You approach her, the young lady becomes totally absorbed by her strange painting and pays no attention to you."


text:
Indestructibility or not
If I have a creature that says "other creatures you control have indestructible" and my opponent plays a destroy all creatures. Does it kill all creatures or just my creature that says that it gives others indestructibility?


text:
Does anyone remember this game from the seventies?
This might be a tough one. My mom and dad are trying to remember the name of a game they played before I was born (I am 36 so we’re going back). All they can remember is that it was a card game, it had a plastic board with slots that you put the cards into, lying down flat. They can’t remember if they were face up or face down. They think it was sort of a solitaire type game, but for two players. I know this is not a lot to go on. Google is failing me so far.

This question can use some extra information.
Ordinary cards or special cards?

Are you certain that the game was limited to 2 players? Could it be for 2 to 4 players and your parents only played it as a 2-player game? This type of information would be useful because a 2-player limit excludes many games, one of which might be the one you're looking for. For example, it might be «Probe», a 2 to 4 players game that fulfills your minimal requirements. https://boardgamegeek.com/boardgame/2060/probe

I agree with comment that the question really needs more details but based on what you've said I will assume your describing Guess Who
It fits your description in following ways...
It came out in 1979 and was certainly around when I was a child and I'm only a little older than you.
The game board had plastic slots in which meant you could have cards standing up or face down.
It was a two player game that was really each player playing their own solitaire game until one of them won.

The only thing I can think of that vaguely matches your description is Rack-o

Rack-O was a favorite with my family.  The racks had no provision for cards to lie flat; they could only sit vertically in the racks.

I agree with Racko.  While the cards do not lay flat as @ZeissIkon pointed out, the OP indicated we are talking about 36+ years of, possibly false, memory.


text:
Monopoly strategy if every unowned property goes to auction immediately?
My friends and I have tried playing with a house rule where every property, no matter who lands on it, immediately goes to auction for all players.
We have been using a Vickrey auction so that the turns don't take forever (we all just write down a number, and the highest bid pays the second highest bid's price for the property).
Obviously, without this rule in place, it is advantageous to simply buy every property you land on. But, with the auctions, each property is going for more than listed value and we quickly run out of cash. What sort of strategies should I employ with this house rule?

With these rules, the optimal bid for properties you are NOT interested in is $1 less than the highest bid.  Even if you are highly interested a property, might not want to signal that with a very high bid.
As Toon Krijthe points out, this becomes a guessing game of what others are willing to spend.  Since you say players are running out of money, you may want to not win early properties and pickup better deals later.  You still need to bid high to help others run out of money and to disguise your strategy.
How much players should be bidding can be informed via a property value calculator like those in this article.  As the calculators point out, key variables in estimating the value are number of players, rounds of play expected, and if the other related properties are (or will be) owned.  In addition to the value for your own situation, Calculate value for the player who will benefit the most from obtaining the property being auctioned.  This will help estimate a logical high end bid for the auction.
So key factors in determining your bid are:
 * Who has available cash to bid
 * Value of property to the players in the game
 * How aggressively/conservatively are players bidding.
 * Plans for your available cash

If you can afford it, always bid at least the mortgage value - as you can immediately (although for tactical reasons one should usually wait) mortgage for that value.
Anytime you pick up the property for less than its mortgage value, you just flipped the property for a quick profit.

This kind of bidding brings elements of poker into the game.

Bids are blind.
Bidder with highest bid takes the property, pays second highest price.
I assume, bidders must be able to pay their bid.

There are several aspects:

Watch carefully what the other players do and adapt your strategy.
Try to estimate the relative value of a property for other players.
Try to read the faces of other players.
Try to keep track of the money of other players. If one player has a lot more money than the other players, it is often wise to bid high. But beware, the player with the most money can use this to his or her advantage.

The most important strategy is willing to change. With a fixed strategy, you will be predictable and that is a bad thing.

If, as you say "each property is going for more than listed value and we quickly run out of cash", then be the player who doesn't bid more than face value.
If all your opponents have run out of cash, and half the properties are still available, you can buy them at half price because no-one can outbid you.

Another consideration is that no-one really starts making money until they have a set. A good tactic might be to save your money by only bidding high on one particular set, and bidding low to snap up bargains elsewhere. You also need to bid high on any property that would complete someone else's set, to stop them getting a set. If you are the only person with a set, you should be able to win.

A player who doesn't bid above face value will wind up with very few properties, especially if there are many players. 4 players have enough starting cash to buy the entire board with money to spare, so if you're the frugal 5th player, you will never win even a single bid.

@NuclearWang - Did you read the question? "each property is going for more than listed value and we quickly run out of cash" I even quoted it in my answer... If they're all running out of cash "quickly" then that sounds to me like "before all the properties are bought". Possibly the OP only has 3 players rather then 5?

Until the end of the game, cash is practically worthless in Monopoly, only properties are valuable. Therefore, I suggest that you spend almost every last dollar you have to get an auctioned property, keeping only enough to ensure you'll get to Go and collect 200 $ afterward.
If you then need money because you happen to fall on someone else's property and have to pay rent, or want to bid on another property, just mortgage the property you just bought in order to raise some cash.
Of course, other considerations, such as the probability of soon landing on a property that will complete your set, must be considered, but overall, you have to ensure that you get as many properties as possible, trading them later on if necessary.
Only make sure you evaluate the amount of money you might need to reach your next Go payoff.
Finally, the rules do not explicitly exclude partnerships. For example, offer another player your promise not to bid on certain property groups if that player will do the same for you.

At the start of the game no-one has any properties. If you bid "almost every last dollar" on the first auction, i.e. pay 1500 for something with a face vale of 100, you're a) overpaying and b) stopping yourself from bidding on other properties, thus making them cheaper for other players. A person employing your tactic might only have 1 property by the time everyone else has 10 properties - the person playing your tactic is therefore almost guaranteed to lose.


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What is the name of this two player card game for betting?
There is a two-player game in Sri Lanka using the French card deck. One of the players shuffles the deck and the second player bets for a card value (without the suit).
If the requested card value comes next in the deck, the better wins, if not, he loses.
Does someone know the name of this game?

How many cards are drawn?  Is this just a guessing game without any strategy?

Sounds  like a simple guessing game using a deck of cards and not an actual game that would have an official name.

there's no strategy.

I'm voting to close this question as off-topic because this doesn't appear to actually be a card game and the details for rules are unspecified.

I don't think trivial games are off-topic - War and Candyland are also 100% luck yet they have multiple questions each on this site.

And it's quite standard for identify-this-game questions to be somewhat shaky on the details - that's often why they need our help identifying it. Though @OP if you know anything else about the game, including its name in another language, please tell us.

As of current, it's a bit too vague and lack of details, though you can always [edit] your question to add more details and getting focused answers instead of wild guessing the name of the game. If possible, could you show either/both an example of how the game progresses, or otherwise answers these questions: how many tries/turns does the player have? how many cards are drawn per turn? if multiple turns, are they discarded/returned back to the deck after being drawn?

@Ryanyuyu: It is a vaguely-posed question but it is 100% on topic

@Laska I'd argue it's too vague and underspecified. How many cards are drawn?  What does "comes next in the deck" mean?  Is the payout even money?   As it stands, we currently have two answers that are "I don't think this is what you're talking about, but I found a game from Sri Lanka".  I still think it's too unclear.

https://www.pagat.com/national/sri_lanka.html lists numerous card games but none of those which are explained match OP’s details. Still the name might ring a bell

Whilst this may theoretically answer the question, it would be preferable to include the essential parts of the answer here, and provide the link for reference.  For example, you should include the names of the games you think could be what the question is asking for.

Not sure about two-player games, but there's a game 304 and Omi that are similar to what you've described.

Both of those games are complex trick-taking games with more than two players.  This answer is likely incorrect.

@ryanyuyu Since the original post had wrong grammar I search for games based on their region - Sri Lanka - and those two games were the only two card games I found.

But neither of their rules seem to match the question.  While these games do appear to be Sri Lankan, they don't match the simple "guess the card" rule.

@ryanyuyu And these appear to be the only card games in Sri Lanka.


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What are the advantages and disadvantages of going first
Going first, you have 9 cards to take out, and going second you have 8 cards to take out. Here are some of my ideas:
Going first better:

If the average turn of the setter/guessers is 2 cards except one of
the turns (probably the first turn where it's the easier with 9
cards) is 3 cards, is it better to first because 2+2+2+3 cards.

Going second better:

If the average turn of the setter+guesser is 2 cards correct, then it
is better to go second because 2+2+2+2=8 cards. Sometimes, aiming for
2 cards a turn is a safer play and strategy because when you try to
hit 3 cards, it's very frequent that one of them may overlap an
opponent's card or at worst a black card. If you have 4 animals on
the board, 3 of which are yours "bear" "donkey" "crow" and 1 of which
are your opponent's "dog", it can be quite difficult.

Not sure what else.

I think you covered most of it already; of course there are many other possible turn-counts. Theoretically team 1 can go for a 3+3+3 win in 3 turns; though that would be very difficult and require some luck as well.
Another minor advantage for team 2: On team 1's first guess, they will always have the full board of 25 options to pick from. Whereas for team 2, at least 1 and usually a 2-3 of the options will already be covered up, making the guessing for team 2 slightly easier on the first turn.
Other than that, the swings of which words got covered up when will tend to be pretty much random for either team, and I think this luck ends up outweighing any potential advantage for either team.

Something else to consider is that even if the first team gets no correct guesses on their first guess the second team has gained information in the form of the clue. They can use this to their advantage to help eliminate cards from the clue they get.


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Cluedo optimal suggestion asking
I am writing an algorithm to ask for the most optimal suggestion (murderer, weapon, place). I would like to hear your opinions about this method, possible improvements, or limitations.
In order of importance:

Never use a card that you already know another player has: You won't gain any information.
Never use a card that another player knows I have: That player could potentially gain as much information from my suggestion as myself.

For example I own the dagger, and player B knows that. Additionally he has the kitchen, and I don't know that. I then suggest it was Plum, with the dagger, in the kitchen; when somebody disproves my accusation player B would know that the other player had to show me Plum.

Use my own cards a maximum of one time throughout the entire game: The entire point of using one of your own cards is to suggest that somebody else has it, or that it is one of the cards in the envelope. If I repeat one of my cards then this would happen:

I use my card no.1: The person that disproves me now possibly has no.1 (according to all the other players). But then I use no.1 again and this same player is now not able to disprove my suggestion. (All the other players now know he didn't have it; this gives them extra information that either I have it or it is in the envelope)

Never use a card that you know is in the envelope: This only gives the other players information about other people not having that card.
If you have used all your cards once, make suggestions about 3 unknown cards.

I think you are misunderstanding a couple of key points about the game which can influence how you make your suggestions. 1) You have to move to the room to make the suggestion. 2) when you make the suggestion you move other players to that room. 3) when you learn information it doesn't mean others can also learn information.

@JoeW I disagree with 3. Any information that could be learned would be learned whenever possible by any player. But 1+2 are absolutely correct, however they do not change the points that OP s making, the behavior would be the same, only it would be harder or lengthier to maintain.

@InbarRose You are missing my point for #3 I am not saying that others can't learn information from your actions just that they won't always learn something and that they won't always learn what they think they learn.

You seem to be optimising "don't reveal info". I think this will lose to a strategy that optimises "learn info faster". Notably your rules about "they might learn something" don't matter if they already know it.

@JoeW I believe people always learn something based on your actions, depending on how advanced your opponents are on taking notes throughout the game.

@Caleth "... don't even matter if they already know it". I believe that to be even better, as you learned something they already knew i.e. they didn't gain any new information on your turn (but you did). Additionally, could you expand on how a "learn info faster" strategy might be implemented?

@DanielDuque - A learn info faster strategy is "if you don't know the person, always use a person you don't know where it is; if you do know the person, always use either one of your own people cards or the envelope card"; same applies to weapons and rooms. It's explicit "don't use your own cards", which is something your algorithm doesn't have.

You are trying to write a set of human understandable rules for a problem that a machine can do much better at.  What you have designed is a set of heuristics for what is fundamentally a statistics problem.  If you want to achieve true optimality, I recommend you start over entirely.
There are 9 rooms, 6 players, and 6 weapons.  This means that there are only 324 different valid guesses (9 * 6 * 6) in general, and if you restrict this algorithm to a guess given the room you are in, you only have 36 options.  While these are is too big for a human to evaluate in real-time, they are negligible to a computer.  What you want to write is a set of scoring criteria for each of these card combinations, and then to pick the card combination that has the highest score as your guess (breaking ties at random).
In order to talk further about optimal, we need to get rigorous about this scoring mechanism.  It sounds from your starting attempt like there are two things you care about:

Gaining as much information that you don't already know
Revealing as little information that you do already know to other players.

It's going to be quite complicated to handle both of these, so let's focus on just point 1 at first (as it's the more important of the two).
In order to gain information, you algorithm needs to have as input everything that you already know about where cards are.  This is:

How many cards each player has
Which cards you know the locations of (including your own cards)
Which cards you know certain players do not hold

You then build a probability model of the location of each card (including the middle).  Cards that you know the location of will have probability 100% associated with that location.  Then, for an arbitrary guess, you model what the players will do with that guess, namely show you a card or pass to the next player.  For this purpose, you probably want to assume the worst case, namely that if a player holds a card matching your guess that you already know the location of, that's the card you will be shown.  With all of this, you can determine the probability that you will be shown a new card versus it will get back to you with no one showing you anything.  You need to add in a bit of logic for figuring out what you learn if it gets back to you without anyone showing you anything.
But at the end of this, you have a probability of learning new information with a given guess.  At this point you could throw in some weighting for different types of cards (I believe rooms to be more valuable pieces of information because you have to get to the room to guess it), but you don't have to.  Compare this probability across each guess and take the one with the highest chance of telling you something new.
With such an algorithm, you could even run it on all 324 card combinations, look at the top 10 most valuable guesses, and from that determine the most valuable room to go to next (or maybe even add in some weighting for room distance).
At this point, you could now try to tackle part 2: giving away as little information as possible.  What you probably want to do is subtract some amount from the score of each guess for how much information it gives away, but this gets complicated quite fast as to do it optimally requires modeling everything the other players know.  You could just add a negative weight to any guess that would reveal a card you know to be in the envelope, but this would be a delicate thing to calibrate, and at this point we're back in the realm of heuristics rather than being able to talk about an "optimal" guess.  My recommendation is to not include this in your first attempt at this algorithm.

You seem to misunderstand what computers and optimisation do. Yes a computer can do calculations much faster than you, but it can only do the calculations you tell it to do. "Human understandable algorithms" are exactly where you have to start.

@AndyT I've been a professional software engineer for years and have done extensive algorithm work.  I think I understand computers, algorithms, and optimization quite well.  I believe the OP's original approach is a set of heuristics rather than a way of solving what is fundamentally a statistics problem.

my bad, but that's the impression I got from reading your answer. Your edit makes it a bit clearer. I agree with your point that the OP has a set of rules which don't actually form an algorithm per se. Your suggestion of statistical analysis is useful for the information finding part, but leaving out the "giving away information" part fundamentally ignores a significant part of what the OP is asking. I'm now at a point where I don't know whether to upvote or downvote your answer... so I'll leave it as neither. :shrug:

Your current algorithm is flawed because it ignores:
A. the difficultly in moving rooms, how many goes it takes to move rooms
B. the fact that there are more rooms to eliminate than weapons/murderers
C. it doesn't suggest when you should use your own cards in your suggestion, just when you shouldn't
D. Your rule no2 fails to take account of an opponent with sufficient memory (or sufficient record keeping) - just because another player doesn't know you have the card now, doesn't mean he can't go back through previous goes when you show him the card later. You could use this to fix my problem C, and say you shouldn't ever use your own cards. But of course if you never show the card it doesn't matter. So you need to take account of the likelihood of showing a card later.

As an example for my problem A, let's say you start with equal distance to two rooms - one of which you have the card to, and one of which you don't. By your current algorithm there is no priority between the two. But obviously you get more information by going to the room you don't have. Let's now say the room you don't have is 2 spaces further away, but the final roll of the dice allows you to go to either - is it acceptable to still go to the room you don't have, or will it arouse suspicion? Is that suspicion worth it anyway? What about if the extra distance takes you an extra turn? Is it now too suspicious?
For my problem B it may prove better to eliminate rooms and not worry about eliminating weapons/people. It might be possible to eliminate weapons/people by analysing other people's guesses and the responses they get. So this may lead to you wanting to suggest your own cards for weapon and person in order to eliminate rooms. But if you get shown a card, and then on your next turn leave the room, that's a pretty strong signal to all the other players that the card you were shown was the room.
But let's say you use your own cards for weapon and person, and no-one can help you with the room; you now know the room. Before your next go, you get dragged into another room; one you have the card for, and you're forced to show that room card to the person whose go it is. According to your algorithm rule no2 you MUST move rooms before making a suggestion. This is going to a) lose you time in moving rooms, b) possibly result in you moving to a room where people will show you the room card or c) make it really obvious that the room you were dragged from was important when you try to get back there. Actually you've done the hardest bit (finding the room in the envelope); your best course of action is to stay in the room you have the card for, and force other players to show you their weapon/people cards.
Another example where your algorithm falls down is when you have the card that proves your own innocence. If you constantly accuse the same person, it means no-one is showing you that person card, which means either you have it or its in the envelope. Players who don't know that you have it will therefore accuse that person to check whether you have it or its in the envelope. If that person is you, then you get free movement to lots of different rooms! This can be a blessing or a curse though - if they move you to a room which you've already eliminated it can use up your valuable time.

In summary your algorithm is too simplistic. If you ignore the rooms and only apply it to weapons/people it's fairly good though.

Do you have recommendations for how to solve any of the problems you bring up?

@Zags - not really. I think that fundamentally it's too complicated to solve all of my problems. If you look at any "solved" game you'll find it's very simple, e.g. tic-tac-toe. What you could do is write a bunch of alternative algorithms, and pitch them against each other in thousands of simulations, and see if any do significantly better. But that'll miss the human element behind suspicions which is difficult for an algorithm to take account of.

Oh, and OP asked for "opinions about this method, possible improvements, or limitations." I provided opinions and limitations, even if not any real improvements.


text:
If I put down a draw 4 card and call uno out, can another player place a draw 4 ontop?
My last card was a wild draw 4, I knew my friend had one but I had to put it down. I called uno out and he put his draw 4 ontop of mine. Can he do that?

Per Uno Rules, Once a player has no cards remaining, the game round is over, points are scored, and the game begins over again.
So, there's no placement once you are out, the round is over.


text:
Do I have to break a full property set to pay if I owe money in monopoly deal?
I owe 5 million due to rent and I have only a full property set.
Do I have to break the full set to pay or do I keep the property set and pay nothing?

TL;DR - Yes you will have to break a full set.
Looking at the rules here regarding payment of rent it says

If you have no cards in front of you to pay with, you don't pay at
  all.

So, if you are able to pay the rent you must do.  As you have a full set in front of you, you have cards.  Therefore you must pay.
There is nothing in the rules that says once you have a set it is 'safe' somehow and can not be broken.

Absolutely correct, the confusion might stem from the fact that complete sets are "safe" from cards like Sly Deal and Forced Deal. Other players can't make you break a set with these cards, but they can force you to do it yourself if you have no other way of paying a debt.


text:
Catching him with no commander trying to play cards- Risk
It was year 5 and only two colours left on the board (myself and my brother). It was the last turn and his turn to go.
He had finished buying all his moon cards (at this time he had all his commanders except the nuke one). His first move was to play all his nuke cards, forgetting he had lost his commander, this meant he couldn’t win (the cards were his only chance).
I called him out after he tried to play the cards and told him he couldn’t play them if he didn’t have his nuke commander and couldn’t go back to buy it.
Should he have been able to go back and buy his commander which would have resulted in him winning the game, or should we have continued playing allowing him no commander?

You don't seem to be asking about the rules: you seem to know the rule. So instead you're asking about opinions one bending the rules and allowing take backs and such, right? As it is, there's no one answer for that.

Which version of risk is this?

I wouldn't call this a duplicate because it's an interesting variant of the issue: the player made illegal moves. In MtG, for example, this would actually change the answer significantly - if the illegal moves were discovered quickly (which they were), then the game is automatically rewound to before they happened and the player must choose different moves, which in this case would work out to his favor.


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Catan Seafarers Bonus points when you build a new settlement on a new island in certain scenarios
In Catan Seafarers scenarios where you earn two bonus points for your first settlement on a new island, what happens when you upgrade that settlement to a City? How many points is that now worth?

You get the two bonus points for the first build on the island.
If you change the settlement to a city, it is not the first build anymore. So you keep the bonus points for the settlement.

Thank you , Just to clarify it acts as two victory points so when adding up points it would be 1 point for settlement and two victory points for first settlement. If the settlement changes to city , then it would be two points for city plus the 2 victory Points earned  for original settlement , is that correct ?

If you build the city, it is 2 points for the city and 2 points for the first build bonus. For a total of 4 points.


text:
Risk Strategies
Hey everyone I like Risk and play it a lot. But I always see the same strats, take a small continent like australia and slow push. The other option I have been seeing is take territories in a large continent and then expand quickly with overwhelming number quickly.
My issue is that these all have they're own issues. For instance when you turtle and slow push with Australia but can be cornered and ganged up on. So I am wondering if there are any other strategies possible and if there are, I would love to hear them.


text:
Smash up Sprout and Weed eater
Played special ability of Sprout (On your turn you may search a minion of power 3 or less on your deck and play it here as an extra minion).
So I choose Weed eater she has 5 power but has an ability ( The turn you played has -2 power ).
Can I choose her?
Or should I look for a specific 3 or less power from my deck?

Weed Eater: This cannot be played to replace a
Sprout, since it does not lower its power until it is
in play. Its power goes back up to 5 after the end
of the turn in which it is played.

Think of it this way - it's power 5 while it's in your deck, so it can't be pulled out by Sprout (it could by the citzien card in the superhero faction), once it's played, then it goes down to 3.

As it’s currently written, your answer is unclear. Please [edit] to add additional details that will help others understand how this addresses the question asked. You can find more information on how to write good answers in the help center.


text:
In my turn, can I just take an "accessible" card into my hand and not play it yet?
When selecting cards in Duel, can I select a card and keep it on my hand until I collect money/resource or do I have to sell/play the card immediately?
If I can take the card and not play it yet, can I later sell it or decide what I want to do with it?

Is there even a concept of "hand" in 7 Wonders Duel?

@Acccumulation - No, definitely not a thing in Duel.

No, you may not keep the card for later use.
The rules say

On your turn, you must choose an “accessible” card in the card
structure and play it. An accessible card is a card which isn’t
partially covered by other cards.
You can play the card you’ve chosen in one of three different ways: •

Construct the Building • 2. Discard the card to obtain coins • 3. Construct a Wonder

There is nothing in the rules about keeping cards to play later.  You make an immediate choice from the 3 options listed.


text:
Playing a draw 4 after another player has played a draw 4

The first player lays down a draw 4 card.
The second player draws 4 cards.
The third player lays down a draw 4 card as well.

Does that mean the second player puts back their 4 cards. While the fourth player has to draw 8 cards?

Having players put cards back as part of the game (without this explicitly being stated in the text or rule for the card itself) would make for rather confusing gameplay that possibly enables cheating (unless you allow them to put any cards in their hand back instead of what they just drew) and gives that player information that other players don't have about which cards are still in the deck. It's not impossible for such a rule to exist in a popular game, but it seems unlikely.

No.
The first player's action caused the second player to draw four cards and skip their normal turn; there is nothing in the rules which can cause that to be "undone". The third player's turn then proceeds as normal.
It may be worth noting here that "stacking" Draw 2 or Draw 4 cards is not part of the official rules even if it is a common house rule.

Also worth noting that you can play a wild whenever you want, but can only play a Wild Draw 4 if you do not have a card of the current color

@Kevin That's true, but the point of this answer isn't to explain all the rules of Uno. The original poster stated what happened, and I'm going to assume they were legal plays unless there's a reason to believe otherwise.

The original poster also thought the "follow-on" or "stacking" rule was an official rule, and in those rules, you can play a Wild Draw 4 when it wouldn't otherwise be legal if the player before you did so. (Typically.  Table variation is likely.) So it could be worth clarifying in this case, because of assumptions drawn in the question.

Exactly. There's a difference here between official rule and common house rules. Stacking draw cards is not possible under official rules. What will happen under house rules is of-course up to the house. Likely outcomes are that either each time the target player draws 4 or the last player draws the total (12).

@Kevin That is not true, you can play a wild draw 4 if you have a card of the current color. However you can be challenged for that action and if it is determined that you indeed do have a card of that color you have to draw 4 instead of the player in question. If you do not they draw 6 instead. This is important to note because in every digital version I have played you can play the wild draw 4 whenever you want and the next player gets the option to challenge it if they think you have a card of the color that was in play before the wild draw 4.


text:
What happens when two units attack each other with equal support?
We have the following orders:
England:

F Nor - Swe.
A Den S F Nor - Swe.

Russia:

F Swe - Nor.
F St. P (NC) S F Swe - Nor.

Both have an equal strength. How does this resolve?

In the rules as of 2015, this is covered under "Standoff Rules":

Units can’t trade places without the use of a convoy. If two units are each ordered to the province that the other occupies, neither can move.

and then in "Support in Standoffs":

Diagrams 10 and 11 show two common standoff situations. In both cases, a strength of 2 meets a strength of 2 and all units stand in place. In Diagram 10, if there had been a Fleet in the Tyrrhenian, it wouldn’t be dislodged by the standoff. (A standoff doesn’t dislodge a unit already in the province where the standoff took place.)

Since the two units both have the same support, they cause a standoff and neither one moves.
However, if any other unit was moving into Sweden or Norway with support, then the unit in that province would be dislodged since its support related only to its move order.

Not much to add to ConMan's answer, if there are no other orders affecting the involved units, the result is a stand-off. But bear in mind that if any unit of different nationality moved to Den or StP (i.e. different nationality than the unit currently occupying that space), the support from that space would be cut. Thus, when adjudicating manually, always cut any support orders first, before comparing strength of individual battles.
When in doubt, try using an open source adjudicator such as Realpolitik: http://realpolitik.sourceforge.net/


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Can you buy a property on your next roll?
Let’s say a player rolls and he lands on Park Avenue but doesn’t buy it. On his next turn before he rolls Can he buy that property?  Or does he lose this opportunity?

No, that player may not buy that property. That property should have immediately gone to auction when the player opted not to buy it on their turn. Thus when they start their next turn, the property is already owned.
From the Monopoly Rules:

BUYING PROPERTY: Whenever you land on an unowned property you
may buy that property from the Bank at its printed price. You receive the
Title Deed card showing ownership; place it faceup in front of you.
If you do not wish to buy the property, the Banker sells it at auction
to the highest bidder. The buyer pays the Bank the amount of the bid
in cash and receives the Title Deed card for that property. Any player,
including the one who declined the option to buy it at the printed
price, may bid. Bidding may start at any price.

Technically, it's possible that noone bid on it at all. But not realistically.

I mean, not when you could literally pick it up for a dollar and immediately mortgage it and forget it for free money.

@ikegami Yes, I would love to play Monopoly with people who wouldn't even pay $1 for Park Avenue.

I think it's still worth covering the "what if no one buys it" case, since the true governing action here is that buying a property is an event triggered by landing on its space after a move (otherwise the person buying it out from under you might be able to charge you rent, or you'd have to draw two Chance Cards on a Chance space, etc.).

I guess also, to be technical, the fact that the property is auctioned off means that the player can indeed buy the property at the start of the turn - they just have to buy it from the person who bid on it, which either of them might not agree to, or which may happen at a very different price than what the first player was intending.

@TheHansinator I think the rules are pretty clear about how the game is played. You start a turn by rolling the dice and moving the number of spaces. There's no option to buy before rolling. In addition, you can only buy a property when you land on it.

@TheHansinator If you want to be technical, you can only buy from the bank when you land. You can bid on an auction or trade with another player.

@MiniRagnarok Before you roll, you can trade with other players and buy houses/hotels. That's why I (admittedly, cheekily) say you could buy the property at the start of the next turn - you buy it from the person who bought it at auction.

@TheHansinator "Before you roll, you can trade with other players and buy houses/hotels." That's only in some editions, hence the confusion I think.

@TheHansinator Sure, but it's a trade, not a buy. <3