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Great Orcs - how to tally terrain superiority?
In the 2014 game published by Ares Games, The Great Orc's ability says

Any terrain type is considered to be favored when Great Orcs are attacking.

Who counts as having favorable terrain when the Great Orcs' ability is used? Does that ability apply to each individual Great Orc or does it automatically give the army as a whole terrain superiority?

The rule wording could be better.
It means that each individual Great Orc counts the terrain as favored when they are in the attack. Other individual units have to check their terrain ability. Great Orcs in defense have no favored terrain.


text:
Five-Year plan - defcon suicide?
I'm playing as the USSR in the fantastic Twilight Struggle PC implementation by GMT, and I have a hand of two cards, one is Five-Year Plan, which states:

USSR Player must randomly discard one card. If the card is a US
  associated Event, the Event occurs immediately. If the card is a USSR
  associated Event or an Event applicable to both players, then the card
  must be discarded without triggering the Event.

and the other is Truman Doctrine:

Remove all USSR Influence markers in one uncontrolled country in
  Europe.

When I go to play Five-Year Plan, it gives me the Defcon Warning. I'm apparently missing something because I don't understand why playing Five-Year Plan in this situation would allow my opponent to lower Defcon.
Why is this a defcon suicide card?

The USSR might have a card in hand which is a US associated event which automatically lowers defcon, e.g., Duck and Cover.
This answer was for the question as originally stated, which did not specify that the poster was playing as the USSR.

I should have mentioned in my question that I am playing as the USSR. As such, I know that I don't have a card which is a US associated event which automatically lowers defcon. I was wondering why the games still flashed a defcon warning in this scenario. Perhaps it just flashes defcon warning whenever you play Five-Year plan.

Your "perhaps" is correct.  The game doesn't explicitly know that defcon suicide will (or even can) happen, it just always warns on cards that could theoretically cause it to happen.

@bwarner is right; the implementation does not exactly know the circumstances, just the associated cards where the warning should flash. For instance, when US play Ortega elected in Nicaragua, the game flashes the DEFCON warning, even if the US have no influence in Cuba.

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text:
Which characters do Threads of Fate plot rule apply to?
The Threads of Fate plot rule states

[Loop Start] Place 2 Paranoia on all characters who had Goodwill last
  loop

The spreading incident allows for Goodwill to be moved from a character to another character. So my question is, does this plot rule apply to characters who had Goodwill at any time or just characters who ended the loop with Goodwill?

Based on rulings from Simon Lundström (who translated the rules), as stated here:

The subplot says (or should say) "characters who had at least one goodwill at the end of the previous loop".

So only the characters (including corpses) who had a Goodwill counter on them at the end of the loop get 2 Paranoia on them at the start of the next.

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text:
Can a hunter attack diagonally?
The rules state that line of sight for a hunter is down the row and column it is on. However, if an agent has been spotted by one hunter, can another hunter attack diagonally since the position of the agent is known?

Quoting from the rules (page 5 bottom right):

After a hunter moves, if the agent is visible to that hunter, that hunter
  may attack the agent.

So no, a hunter has to see its own target, you can't use another hunter's line of sight for that.


text:
Is Mesodae's Lantern effect recurring?
Mesodae's Lantern states

Your energy reserve is decreased by 1. At the end of the round, receive 3 crystals.

My question is, do you receive 3 crystals one time immediately after playing it, or do you go 3 crystals at the end of each round?

Régis Bonnessée, who is the designer of the game posted in this boardgamegeek thread:

The lantern give you 3 crystals each round.
It's a permanent effect like Titus (see the symbol).

You receive 3 crystals at the end of each round while it is in play. The symbol at the bottom left of the card indicates that the effect is continuous, as all end-of-round triggers (that I can remember) are.


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Do you have to tell the truth?
If you wanted somebody to discard a card, it seems advantageous to lie and say it's something that is obviously not playable. Do you have to tell the truth about the card you are giving a clue about?

Yes you must always tell the truth about cards in Hanabi. When you give information you give it about the card. If you give color you must give it for all cards of that color. If you give it about the number you must give it about all cards with that number. Given those two facts it is absolutely against the rules to lie.
Here is a link to the rules.
https://www.villagehome.org/blog/attachment/index.php/4923/1/regle_en_hanabi.pdf


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Myram Lamm - how to apply magic abilities?
In A Prophecy of Dragons, how does one correctly apply the magic abilities of Myriam Lamm? As an example, Myst Bolt shows 1 star: remove 2 shields from your space. What happens if you roll more than 1 star?
Does it mean that you can remove 2 shields for every star you roll, or merely that if you roll one or more stars you can take 2 shields off, no matter how many you roll?

A member of Space Cowboys cleared this up in a Board Game Geek thread:

Maryam should actually be worded more precisely. This is a typo and
will be corrected in the next printing.
Mystic Bolt: 1 star or more:
Minor Healing: 1 star or more:
Divine Healing: 2 stars or more:

If you compare to other spells, it seems to me that it must mean if you roll 1 or more stars, you get to remove two shields. Additional stars have no extra effect. So more magic skill would just increase the chances that you would get to remove 2 shields, rather than no shields.


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Is it possible in UNO to run out of cards to draw?
The question Uno discard and draw pile empty? deals with what would happen according to the rules if a player has to draw one or more cards but is unable to do so because both the draw pile and the discard pile are empty. The author of the question assumed "I'm guessing this is impossible mathematically or they were missing cards".
But is it actually mathematically impossible for that to happen?
Assuming that:

You are playing with a complete 108 card uno deck.
You have between 2 and 10 players, as the rules say the game was designed for. Whatever number works best for achieving this game state.
Players are playing according to the official rules and refrain from self-destructive behavior (like drawing cards even though they don't have to), but otherwise follow a strategy which provokes this situation.
The cards happen to get shuffled in the ideal order necessary for this to happen.

Does it even make sense that this could happen? Every card in Uno is doubled, so if there is a card on the top of the discard pile, there has to be at least one match in either a player's hand, in the draw pile, or in the discard pile.

If there are fewer than 20 cards left in the deck+discard, then chain-playing "Draw 2" and "Wild Draw 4" can force a deckout.  Still a high bar to reach, though.

Does this answer your question? Uno discard and draw pile empty?

@OlaStröm No, it doesn't. That question asks what happens in that situation. It does not ask if that situation can occur in the first place.

@olaStröm did you even read the question?

You are allowed to draw a card instead of playing a card whenever you wish.  Is it ideal to under most circumstances?  Certainly not, especially not to the point where the draw and discard piles are effectively emptied.  Under normal play, you would not get in this situation... but against a five year old or a drunk friend who just likes holding lots of cards and doesn't care about winning, sure.

Yes.  Here's how:
10-player game.  Designate players 5 and 10 "lucky", meaning that these players monopolize the number that initially flops, and also monopolize the wilds, ensuring that they always manage to play, and the other eight "unlucky" players are never able to play.  Assign two of the four colors to players 1-5, and the other two colors to players 6-10, ensuring that the current color is always inconvenient when an unlucky player's turn comes around.
Let's say players 1-5 got the colors blue+green, and the red 1 initially flopped. The "lucky" players proceed to play out the other 7 1's, with the unlucky players drawing (8*4=32) cards in the process, leaving only 5 cards in the discard pile.  Player 10 plays a Wild, calling one of his own colors, and then the endgame begins:

Player 1 draws a junk card
Player 2 draws a Wild Draw 4 and plays it, calling one of player 10's colors
Player 3 draws the last 3 cards from the deck, including a Wild Draw 4, then reshuffles the discard into the draw and also draws a Wild.
Player 4 draws a previously played blue or green 1
Player 5 plays a Wild, calling one of his own colors
Player 6 draws a previously played red or yellow 1
Player 7 draws a previously played red or yellow 1
Player 8 draws a previously played red or yellow 1
Player 9 draws a previously played red or yellow 1
Player 10 plays a Wild Draw 4 that he has held since the start
Player 1 draws draws the last three cards from the deck (all 1s), then reshuffles and draws a Wild
Player 2 draws and plays a Wild Draw 4, calling one of player 10's colors
Player 3 reshuffles that Wild Draw 4 into the draw pile and draws it, -there are no cards left to draw-
Player 4 has nothing to play and no cards to draw

Here's a sample deck order for producing this result:
https://pastebin.com/hzBiFQ0B

While this may result in the scenario the OP described (and I have doubts that it would, since the discard pile would be shuffled as needed to allow the +4s to be resolved), I don't think there are enough cards in the deck to actually make this happen.

@mmathis Not having enough cards in the deck is the whole point.

I mean there aren't enough cards to set up the scenario which prevents players from playing, ergo the players can play and the draw/discard piles aren't run dry

@mmathis Actually yeah, I've found it does work out that way with 5 lucky players; but 2 lucky players (that never miss a play) are able to suppress the other 8 no problem.  I'll update the answer accordingly, with an example decklist.

in your example you don't always play when you can. Like when a player draws a wild draw 4 he is allowed to play it immediately, but you don't do that. Not sure if this goes against the OP's "no self-destruction" rule

@IvoBeckers Crap, I forgot that rule.  Hmm, I think there's enough flexibility there to work around it... I'll edit it again.

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text:
How can I tell if these vintage boardgames are worth anything?
My grandparents passed away recently, and my mother is cleaning out their house. They have some vintage board games (ca. 1960's, maybe?) in their house, and she's wondering what to do with them. I don't know if any of them are collectible or not; she sent me a rather low-res picture in which a few are identifiable: Mille Bornes, Barrel of Monkeys, Flinch, Contack, Yahtzee, a few card games like Old Maid and Crazy Eights.
How would I go about finding out if there's a market for any of these? I tried checking BoardGameGeek, which shows what's for sale there and on eBay, but that tells me nothing about whether anyone is actually buying those games (well, in some cases it tells me a little; if there are a bunch of eBay auctions, all with no bids, there probably isn't much demand).
Is there any good way for me to determine if there's a demand for any of these games? Is there a good place I should try and sell them? Or should I just give them to the local thrift store, as it probably won't be worth the hassle of storing them and listing them for sale?

You should rephrase the title to something like 'How could I evaluate the value of an old Board Game'.

You're probably looking at a thrift store dropoff here, but you might want to try a historical search of ebay as well. You can muck about with the search parameters a bit to do it.

If you look at who wants a game on BoardGameGeek, you can get an idea if there is any demand for the game.  (It's under the statistics section on BoardGameGeek.)   Unfortunately, for any item in a market, it's hard to know if people are actually buying that item.  While I haven't done it for board games, I've followed eBay auctions with active bids to see what they close at.  It can be difficult to see if an item will sell, without trying to sell it.  I'm skeptical of price guides for antiques cause just cause people say something will sell for X, doesn't meany anyone will pay that for it.
You could always donate them to a something like the Salvation Army or Goodwill if you'd just like to have them find new homes.  I'm not sure it costs money to put things up in the BoardGameGeek marketplace, but you could list them on their instead to see if they're interesting to general gamers.

I personally bought an old 1960 Mille Bornes game on eBay. I wanted the old game for sentimental reasons, but I wasn't willing to pay too much for it.  When I was shopping for those, there were some at around $20.00 USD, but with patience I found one for $12.60 USD  including shipping. While I was happy to find one, this is not an outstanding value for this particular game.
So, yes there is always demand for these games; I personally think eBay is a good place to evaluate the values of those. But you will only get a good price if you are patient and/or lucky. Is it worth the hassle? It depends of how you evaluate the whole process of selling them. But I would personally pack them in the basement and wait for the next garage sale.

The Games section of the well respected Miller's Antiques & Collectables Price Guide might be a good place to start.

The first thing I alway do is search for them on Ebay and see how things are going.  If there's a few auctions there then follow them to see how they end.

I have had some great luck with some of my own personal old games in my collection by reaching out to a reputable and good local (and online) boardgame store. In my personal experience I sold a bunch of games to Noble Knight Games in no small part because they support many of my favorite gaming related podcasts.
In dealing with an online store that buys & sells older games (in my case I sold them both boardgames and role playing game materials) you will need to provide them with detailed information about the games you have, their condition, completeness etc and they will then make you an offer. In most cases they, like many used dealers online and offline will offer you a bit more in store credit than they would pay in cash. You probably also won't get exactly what you might see individual games selling for on EBay - but then neither will you have to incur the Ebay fees, payment fees, shipping costs and more or the hassle of listing many items and relisting the many which likely won't sell the first time around.
Some local game stores may buy and sell used games - but generally to do so successfully requires a store with an active online presence which ensures that they turnover their inventory reliably and often.
In your particular case I would suggest that you have your relative box up all of the games and ship them to you - you can then inspect them for completeness and take more detailed photographs. Personally I would also suggest keeping a few if they are games you actually play (or might actually play).

On eBay, you can see how much previous buyers have paid for an item.
This site explains how to check the box on the left marked «Sold Items»...
«Search eBay for "Completed Listings" to Know How Much Your Stuff Is Worth»
http://lifehacker.com/search-ebay-for-completed-listings-to-know-how-much-y-5937100
or
use eBay's Advanced Search function :
http://pages.ebay.com/bo/en-us/completedlistings/

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text:
How does one set up a 1/4 board for Go – and is it a good way to start?
As a beginner, I was handed a full go board. And, somehow figured it out.
A beginner friend wants to start "small" on something like 1/4 of the board.
Personally, I think that we should start with the entire board.

This might be of interest to you http://boardgames.stackexchange.com/questions/6336/how-does-the-full-size-board-change-the-game-of-go

It is a bit late now, but the title suggests that the question is purely about the mechanics of setting up the board, while the body suggests that it is about what size board to start on.

There is a lot of discussion on whether starting on 19x19 or 9x9 is preferable, the general consensus tends to 9x9. Personally, I started on 19x19 but would have preferred 9x9.
As a beginner, you first need to understand the most basic melee fighting tactics (atari, ladder, snapback, basic life and death, etc). Those can be learned on both big and small boards, but small boards avoid introducing complex strategic issues and make for faster games that are easier to review.
You probably should stick to small boards until you are familiar enough with the game to stop making "obvious" mistakes (crawling with a dead group on the first line, playing out ladders, stuff like that).

I preferred 9x9 when I was first starting to learn because the games were faster.

Play on a 9x9 board goes much faster, and allows people to learn by playing the "capturing game", in which the first person to capture any stones wins. There are even some professional games on a 9x9 board.

If you have played go for a while, a full board can seem like a natural place to learn. Obviously it is possible; So that asks the question: "Why do so many people learn on a 9x9 board?" and "Why does a 9x9 board exist at all?"
I have found, (past 10 years of teaching Go), that a 9x9 is the right place to teach people. There are lots of reasons, (that you will probably find in the other answers - "get through your first 100 games quickly"), but my top reason is fear.
19x19 lines looks like 18x18 squares to someone that has learnt to play, almost all other board games. The mind can boggle at how complicated that must be; A 9x9 looks like 8x8 squares, which is the same dimensions as some other games use, (though they are mostly tactic based games and Go adds strategy into the mix.)
So to sum up, some reasons to learn on a 9x9:

Friendly size
Get through teaching games quicker
Learn the rules without the distraction of the deeper complexities, (the fun part), getting in the way.
Still fun
Cheaper to make or buy
Easier to store

A 1/4 board (11x11), is not a standard size, so I do not believe that any official setup for black handicap stones exists.
Some confusion exists on what a quarter board is though, as I have seen a 9x9 also called a quarter board. The handicaps for that board are listed here.

1/4 likely refers to 9x9, I have never seen 11x11 in this context.

The basic board sizes are 9 x 9, 81 points or a "one-quarter" board, 13 X 13, or a "half" size board of 169 points, and 19 x 19, for a "full" board of 361 points.
Many full sized boards will have a 9 x 9,  or  13 X 13, board printed on the back. Otherwise, you could take paper and "block off the extra ten rows or columns of points above 9 x 9 on a full board.
I learned to play Go on a full-sized board and never looked back. You might want to use a smaller board for the first five or ten games, just to learn the mechanics, but you'll want to transition to a full sized board as soon as possible so that you don't learn strategies that work on the smaller board but may be inappropriate for the full version.

Actually setting up the 'quarter board' is hard to do on a 19x19 board.
Most people use a small board specifically made for the size, or make their own.
It is possible to crop an area from the large board, but this can be inconvenient.
As for learning on one, I feel Pieter Geerkens comment is quite correct. 13x13 gives a more balanced vision of the game than 9x9. 19x19 is too large, 9x9 is too small, but good to introduce the rules with.
Once the player has the basic rules down 100% on 13x13 then 19x19 becomes more interesting.
After some years playing primarily 19x19, I've gone back to 9x9 and 13x13 to improve my life and death techniques and starting moves.

I always found it relatively straightforward to ‘trim’ a 19x19 board: just lay a couple of pieces of paper along the edges of the area you want to play on, and weight them a bit.

a 9x9 is a board that is set for a battle not a war.
and that is ok.
There is a lot less centre area in a 9x9, which is good because there is no territory in the centre.
I find a 9x9 takes 15 minutes to pay,
where as a 19x19 will take an hour or more.
A 13x13 is a interesting compromise. A small war.

13x13 at least has four corners, and can very dramatically demonstrate either the power of a wall or its impotence, depending on full board situation. I highly recommend learning on a 13x13, and not anything smaller, except perhaps for a beginner's very first game. It has been estimated that a beginner advances by around 4 kyu during her first game. Don't hinder that advancement by starting on too small a board.

@Pieter: Mind  if i more or less copy-paste-edit that into may answer.

Simply credit me as a contributor in case the comment tree gets deleted at some point, then be my guest.


text:
What extra roles have you used with Werewolves?
The standard game Werewolf, has just a few roles: Citizen, Werewolf, Witch, Cupid, Hunter, Seer, Thief.  I know there are lots of other roles created.
Which roles do you use and what is the impact.
Default Roles

Citizen, cast a vote during the day.
Wolf, citizen, knows other wolves, chose each night a victim to eliminate from the game.
Witch, has two potions, each night the witch knows the victim of the wolves. She has one potion to save a victim and one to poison another player (hopefully a werewolf).
Cupid, choses two players the first night. These are the lovers. The lovers know each other and they have to survive together. If one dies the other dies too. If a werewolf and a citizen are lovers, they have to kill the others to win.
Hunter, if the hunter dies, he choses another player to die with him.
Seer, the seer can query a players role each night.

Other roles

Executer, during the voting, the executer can present himself and execute another player. Voting continues afterwards. The executer can execute only once.
Priest, if the votes are counted, the priest can present himself and use holy water on the victim. If it is a werewolf or the witch the victim dies, else the victim lives. Priests can have one or more bottles of holy water.
Guardian Angel, each night a guardian angel can protect a player. This player cannot be eaten by the werewolves. The guardian angel cannot protect himself.
*Alpha Werewolf *, this werewolf, can select another player to become a werewolf. This can happen only once.
Soul mates, soul mates are citizens that know each other. They can't become werewolves, if the Alpha werewolf tries to convert a soul mate, the attempt is failed.

I would include only the Citizens (Villagers), Wolves, and Seer in the "default roles". All of the others are extras, at least in the original Werewolf rules http://eblong.com/zarf/werewolf.html. Even the Seer could be considered extra; the original Mafia had just two roles, the Mafia and the Citizens: http://web.archive.org/web/19990302082118/http://members.theglobe.com/mafia_rules/.

I agree with Brian. If this was a wiki article, or I could edit it, I would.
Also, it would probably improve the effect of the answer rankings if your moved all of your "Other Roles" into answers that could be voted on.

I am voting to close this as primarily opinion based; it is social fun, and a "I have used X, what have you used?" question. It's a survey for new roles, regardless of quality, and not a problem to solve.

@doppelgreener since when are house rules opinion based? The answers to this question are plural, but finite, and are valuable to future visitors. I don't think this question should be closed in its current form.

@freekvd This question matches multiple types of question to avoid asking: it's "I use X, what do you use?", every answer is equally valid, there isn't a concrete problem to solve, it's open ended. It's a list question, which do not function in the Stack Exchange format. Valuable, certainly, but SE has its functional niche, and we don't try to handle everything that might be valuable. This can be gathered on other sites that better fit it, like Reddit. (SE isn't trying to be a one-stop shop.)

@doppelgreener Yikes, you're absolutely right. What about a finite list of 'official' characters from werewolf games by various publishers?

@freekvd It'd have to be a reasonably different sort of question. "What do you use and what is the impact?" is not a problem. Whatever question it is should actually contain a problem to which there is an answer. (And for the record, should be new, not an edit to this question.)

I like the Sheriff. This is an elected position. On the first day, before any lynchings, there is a public debate and vote to decide the Sheriff. The Sheriff then appoints a deputy who will take over if/when they are killed.
The Sheriff has two votes when it comes to lynching.

Do you play Sherrif-ful games with an even number of players?

Yeah, it's a great way to resolve ties.

Just wanted to add/clarify that of course there can still be a tie when playing with a Sheriff, it's just that his choice prevails in such situations. (Imagine him having two and a half votes rather than exactly 2.0.)

Right, we used to have a Sheriff chosen by the moderator / game leader / dungeon master, and no deputy. We also called him Mayor.

I've played with several of the roles invented by The Graduate Mafia Brotherhood of Princeton University, but the most memorable was the Kingmaker:

A despotic regime has siezed power, usurping democracy. Each turn, there will be a King or Queen who has the sole power to decide who will be lynched. Open debate is allowed, but the day ends as soon as the King/Queen makes his/her choice.
The Kingmaker is a civilian, who, each night, names a King/Queen for the following round. The Kingmaker cannot choose himself, and he cannot choose the same person for two consecutive rounds. The Kingmaker must choose someone.

One game in particular, the Kingmaker's pleas of "Don't bite the hand that feeds you" went entirely unheeded.  We played the rest of that game democratically.
I also noticed that with too many roles in use, moderation can get ridiculously hard.

I see a deadlock. If there are two people left, the kingmaker and the previous king/queen, there can be no king but there must be a king.

By that point, the game is already over anyway, so the winning condition applies.  If the previous king/queen is mafia or a werewolf, he/she wins.

We usually play it with:

the Immortal - if wolves choose to kill him, he doesn't die (he still can be lynched)
the Whore - each night she must choose a person to lie with: she dies if she chose a wolf, otherwise nothing happens (henceforth she knows that that person is not a wolf)

Mind that using the whore two people can die in a single night, giving an advantage to the wolves; usually this outweighs the whore ability of sometimes knowing that someone is not a wolf, especially if she's unlucky enough to choose a wolf on the first night.

Well, the "whore" is not precisely a politically correct denomination, but it gives the idea clearly... ;)

Do you have many female players?

Usually a little less then half of the players are female, why?

These are mine. I am usually always the moderator, so I pick a few of these classes at random for game. It'd be ridiculous to use all of them at once. Though I have tried it for fun once. I number the cards for certain reasons. (You'll see in the roles) It also allows me to say their number instead of saying their role, unless they are the "Always in the game" roles, IE. Werewolves, Seer. You can chose which ones these are. That way players have to actually think on what the roles are. So for instance: Number three, wake up. What will you do? Me and my friends have played for a very long time, so we always know what to do.
Villager Normal town role, cannot do anything but vote at day.
Werewolf The werewolves have to kill everyone and be the last men standing. They are allowed to decide at night who to kill. They have a maximum of 1 minute, and can end their conversation short if they please.
Neighborhood Watch At night, the NHW can see everything, who visited who. This can only be done once.
Veteran  At night, can go on alert and kill whoever visits them.
Mayor: Starts as a normal villager, but has the choice to reveal. Flipping his card and now his votes count as 3. You can pretend to be Mayor, but if you're not. You CANNOT flip your card.
Tanner The tanner was loved by all. But after drugs, his nain goal is to be lynched. Once he is lynched, he picks a number from X-Y (Depending on how many numbers are on the cards/how many cards there are) once he picks, the person with that number turns over their card at day, and has killed them self. If he is killed from some other form besides lynch, he fails.
Werewolf Hunter At night, the WH as 3 arrows. She can shoot whoever she wants, but if she runs out of arrows, she cannot kill anymore. This is a vigilante Town Role.
Vampire There is only one vampire. Every night, the vampire kills someone. The vampire is it's own team. It wins once it is the only one alive.
Seer The Seer can choose one person at night. If it is a killing role, he gets a thumbs down. If a villager, he gets a sideways hand, or a fist. If it is a special town role then he gets a thumbs up. Seer goes at the very end of the night. Important for witch.
Little Girl A worse version of the Seer. Every night she can choose someone to visit. However if she chooses a Killing Role, she dies. This includes WH. Once she inspects a Seer however, the current Seer dies. And the LG becomes a Sheriff. If the LG inspects the victim of a Werewolf, the LG and the victim both die.
Sheriff The sheriff can decide at night when woken up, to either have detailed descriptions of their "victims", or for when he inspects someone, to have the same rules as Seer, but the results are announced by the Moderator.
Hero The hero can choose one person to protect at night, but instead of the victim dying, the Hero and the attacker both die. This applies to ALL killing classes.
Mage The Mage at night, chooses one person to stun for the entire night, getting in the way of whatever he was about to do. ie. The werewolf attacks John, but is stunned by a mage. Thus it never happens. Whenever the Mage wants, he can decide to become a Magician, or a Witch.
Magician The Magician has a bunny and a magic stick. The bunny can distract (stun) someone, but only has one use. The Magic Stick protects whoever he targets, like a medic.
Witch Has 3 potions, Poison, and Stun. The stuns whoever he targets. Poison kills whoever he visits and himself. The witch can also mind control one person and make him do his action on another person. If a villager, then nothing happens. If a seer, then (and this is my favorite part) the Seer gets the results of the Witch's target, not the Seer's target. The witch does not see the results. The witch must go first, so that there are no mix ups for the other player's role results.
Executioner The executioner's goal is to get his target lynched. His target is a random player, and can even be a werewolf. The moderator, on the first night, tells the Executioner to wake up. The moderator then points (The moderator must be very specific for no mixups) to the target. The executioner's main goal is to get him lynched. If the target is killed at night, the executioner becomes a tanner.
Cupid Cupid goes second on night one, and decides who to people are to become lovers. The two people who are chosen are tapped by the moderator. The two open their eyes and look at eachother.  These choices can be influenced by a Witch. If the witch chooses cupid to "Lover" someone else, Cupid will turn into a lover. Once Cupid dies, he can choose one person to kill themselves, if he wishes, he can abstain. Cupid cannot choose someone to die if he dies from Burst. Cupid wins from staying alive, and having the Lovers survive. If the lovers die, Cupid turns to stone. Once Cupid turns to stone, he has two choices. For the Werewolves to win, or for the villagers to win. He cannot work with the Werewolves in their conversation, or speak during the lynch. However at one point during the night, every night. He will be asked to shatter. Shattering will let him talk for one day, and die at night. He can lie about the Werewolves, or rat out the Werewolves. The Moderator will ask which side Cupid is on, a thumbs up is town. A thumbs down is Werewolf.
Lover Every night, the lovers wake up and without words, use their hands, arms, face expressions to make out a plan for 1 minute. If the lovers decide to, they can end this discussion short. Cupid is involved in this chat. Cupid has an over all decision on how the lovers will act. However if both Lovers agree, they can make Cupid burst. (Die) If cupid dies, nothing happens to the Lovers. Whoever kills the lovers, gets one extra life once they die. Making Lover and Cupid the hardest in the game. Once one lover dies, they both die. The lovers must stay alive until the end of the game.

Medic - Each night he/she selects someone that will not die that night. (Hopefully that someone is not himself). Everyone knows who is the Medic, but he can be a Werewolf.

Why wouldn't the werewolves finish him off the first night if everyone knows who he is?

Yes they can, but he can select himself to not die thus preventing a death that night.

I played this rule before but the role was called the 'Friendly Hitch-hiker'

If the medic selects the medic each night, he can't be killed by a werewolf. So I assume he can't chose the same person twice in a row.

Sounds like a much lamer version of the Gurardian Angel above.

A couple roles we use:
Vigilante - A villager who picks someone they think is a werewolf to kill each night.  Can't be a werewolf.  Can choose not to kill.
Little Girl - Can peek out during the werewolf's turn at night and see who they are.  If she is spotted by the wolves, she dies.
Magician - Similar to the Seer, but where a seer can only query a player's role and get either is/is not a wolf, the magician can get role information about the player as well (for major roles we use; seer, healer, werewolf or villager, can be expanded with enough hand signs!)
Cupid - In our version of cupid, the star-crossed lovers don't know each other.

"If she is spotted by the wolves, she dies." WTFLOL, that's total nonsense.

what's nonsense about it?  The wolves have to see her peeking; if they can point her out, she dies.

That's a totally flawed rule, that cannot be enforced without risking ruining the whole game. It's absolutely opposite to the spirit of the original game where no "dexterity" is involved and where there can't be any unclear issue: either something happens or it doesn't.

I disagree completely. There is no dexterity involved in opening or closing your eyes; since that is a required part of the game already. If the wolves spot the LG, they indicate that to the moderator, and the moderator indicates whether or not they are correct. Furthermore, this is a role we've used successfully for over two years.

One tactic sometimes used is for the Little Girl to just pretend to be a werewolf. That way she doesn't look suspicious and the werewolves won't ''figure'' it out.

So if she survives the first night, she can point out all wolves and end the game immediately...?

The scapegoat - If there is a tied vote and the scapegoat is still alive they are lynched.

I invented the ressurector who can bring one person and one random card back to life every other round, but in my experience the ressurector always happens to die first which is weird.
You could also play where everyone has jobs as a cover during the day. There's a journalist who makes up a story about how everyone died, a gossiped who tells lies and blames others for the killing, and other jobs.
I play without villagers because when you play like that it can get boring sometimes for them. I use all special characters

Our moderator has started with the first night time kill being the previous sheriff. Then daytime. The moderator states the sheriff was killed and asks for any volunteers to take the badge (who gets two votes in ties). Then the game officially begins with a daytime lynching.

all_licenses: Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/2.5/


text:
What are the component class names?
One Hit Kill has four component classes. Green is Bio. Red is elemental. In the first expansion, black is Death and purple is Lore. What are the names of the yellow and blue components?

You should check out the web app. It has a lot of very detailed info about the game, including the names of each component class:


text:
Are there any differences between the Ticket to Ride games I should take into account when choosing one?
There are many different variants and expansions for the Ticket to Ride series, and I'm curious about the differences. I know the standard version and the Europe version differ only by map, but I'm not so sure about the others.
What are the differences between the different games? What are there strengths and weaknesses? Is the dice expansion worth getting?
Looking for stuff like player #'s, game length, and any other things that change the experience. :D

The original and Europe versions differ HUGELY, it's not just a different board.
The US version is the simplest formulation of the game.  It accommodates up to 5 players, I believe, and it'd be a great one to play with non-boardgame-obsessed family members, including the old and the young.  It's still got a great deal of strategy and depth to it once you know where to look, but it won't turn off anyone who can handle Monopoly, Scrabble or Risk.  (The 1910 expansion adds less unwieldy cards and a few new variants, but keeps things maximally simple and elegant.)
The Europe version is also good for large groups but takes the complexity level up a notch.  Now you have to deal with concepts such as tunnels, ferries and stations, which severely alter the dynamics of collecting cards and claiming routes.  It's a more gamer-y Ticket to Ride which I would probably recommended over the US version to anyone who plays with mostly hardened gamers.  The 1912 expansion offers variants at a similar complexity level.
I haven't played the Marklin (German) edition but I believe it's got extra twists over the US version that probably put it on about a par with the European set.
I have played with the Nordic Countries edition and it's my personal favourite.  The caveat here is: it's only for 2 or 3 players, so don't get it if you need to regularly cater to a larger group!  It is even more complex than Europe, with a lot of exceptions to the normal rules that are pretty hard to grasp on the first play - but it's perfectly balanced and my wife and I come back to it again and again.  The Switzerland game is another 2-3 player outing, and again I haven't actually played this one, but most of what I've seen written about it suggests that most people prefer Nordic Countries.
Hope this helps!

I actually feel that Europe is a much more beginner-friendly game than the US version. The map is more forgiving (there are fewer critical routes that can be snatched to block people) and the stations mean you won't be screwed over by an opponent taking a route you need, though you pay a small cost. This makes it much more enjoyable for new players as they can actually complete their routes.

As a more "hardcore" gamer, the stations are the one thing I don't like about the Europe version. It's pretty much impossible to block people off, you don't ever really have to detour, and you only wind up with unfinished tickets if the game ends sooner than you had anticipated.

@NuclearHoagie I have the Europe version but I've never played with the station. Just take them out of the game, problem solved.

I can't comment on the newer Ticket to Ride editions, but you should know the original and Europe have a few differences:

Europe edition includes ferry and tunnel routes that have special rules about claiming them.
http://www.daysofwonder.com/tickettoride/en/content/rules_te
The original edition comes with small cards that I find a bit clumsy to shuffle. The 1910 expansion entirely replaces the small cards with large ones, and subsequent editions including Europe come with large cards.

The Days of Wonder website provides Flash-based versions of several ticket to ride games, which would let you try before you buy.

As this question is from 2010 and many new versions have been released since, It seems worth compiling a list of versions and notable differences. This answer can then easily be edited by anyone as more version get released. Please anyone feel free to edit/update this.  I have not covered strengths and weaknesses as this is completely subjective.
I will list for each map its player count, number of pieces players start with (or other equivalent), rules for drawing tickets, special rules,  bonus scoring rules. If a rule is slightly different to base game (ie with the double routes or removing tickets from the game).
For any Special Rules I will list just "ferries, tunnels" or other brief description of special rules rather than explaining every special rule in full.
Ticket To Ride (2004)
Players : 2-5
Starting pieces: 45
Starting tickets: Draw 3 keep at least 2
Tickets during game : Draw 3 keep at least 1.
Special Rules : None
Bonus Scoring : 10 Points for longest route
Ticket To Ride: Europe (2005)
Players : 2-5
Starting pieces: 45
Starting tickets: Draw 1 Long Ticket and 3 Normal tickets keep at least 2.  Untaken starting tickets are removed from the game.
Tickets during game : Draw 3 keep at least 1.  Untaken tickets placed at bottom of deck.
Special Rules : Ferries. Tunnels.
Bonus Scoring : 10 Points for longest route
Ticket To Ride: Marklin (2006)
Players : 2-5
Starting pieces: 45
Starting tickets: Draw 4 keep at least 2.  Choose how many to take from a long and short ticket deck
Tickets during game : Draw 4 keep at least 1.  Choose how many to take from each deck
Special Rules : Passengers/merchandise. The +4 locomotive.  Tickets linking to countries.
Bonus Scoring : 10 Points for most completed tickets.
Ticket To Ride: Switzerland (2007)
Players : 2-3
Starting pieces: 40
Starting tickets: Draw 5 keep at least 2. Untaken tickets removed from the game
Tickets during game : Draw 3 keep at least 1. Untaken tickets removed from the game
Special Rules : Locos are Tunnel Cards and no restrictions on taking them.  Tunnels.  Tickets linking countrys.  Double routes can be taken 3 player.
Bonus Scoring : 10 Points for longest route..
Ticket To Ride: Nordic Countries (2007)
Players : 2-3
Starting pieces: 45
Starting tickets: Draw 5 keep at least 2. Untaken tickets removed from game.
Tickets during game : Draw 3 keep at least 1. Untaken tickets removed from game.
Special Rules : No restriction on taking face up locomotives, Tunnels, Ferries, Double routes can be used with 3 players.  Can use 4 cards as a loco on a specific route.
Bonus Scoring : 10 Points for most completed tickets.
Ticket To Ride: Legendary Asia (2011)
Players : 2-5
Starting pieces: 45
Starting tickets: Draw 1 Long Ticket and 3 Normal tickets keep at least 2.  Untaken starting tickets are removed from the game.
Tickets during game : Draw 3 keep at least 1.  untaken tickets to bottom of deck.
Special Rules : Ferries, Mountains
Bonus Scoring : 10 points for most connected cities.
Ticket To Ride: Team Asia (2011)
Players : 2-6 playing in pairs
Starting pieces: 27 trains per player matching colour of teammate.
Starting tickets: Draw 5 keep at least 3 per player.
Tickets during game : Draw 4 keep at least 1.
Special Rules : Team play with a mixture of shared/private wagons/tickets.
Bonus Scoring : 10 points for team with longest route.  10 points for team with most completed tickets.
Ticket To Ride: India (2011)
Players : 2-4
Starting pieces: 45
Starting tickets: Draw 4 keep at least 2.
Tickets during game : Draw 3 keep at least 1.
Special Rules : Ferries
Bonus Scoring : 10 point for longest route.  Mandala Ticket Bonuses (completing a ticket twice with 2 separate routes).
Ticket To Ride: Deutschland (2012)
Players : 2-4
Starting pieces: 45
Starting tickets: Draw 4 keep at least 2.
Tickets during game : Draw 3 keep at least 1.
Special Rules : Ferries
Bonus Scoring : 10 point for longest route.  Mandala Ticket Bonuses (completing a ticket twice with 2 separate routes).
Ticket To Ride: The Heart Of Africa (2012)
Players : 2-5
Starting pieces: 45
Starting tickets: Draw 4 keep at least 2.
Tickets during game : Draw 4 keep at least 1.
Special Rules : Terrain Cards allowing to double points when claiming a route.
Bonus Scoring : 10 Points for most completed tickets.
Ticket To Ride: Nederland (2013)
Players : 2-5
Starting pieces: 40
Starting tickets: Draw 5 keep at least 3.
Tickets during game : Draw 4 keep at least 1.  untaken tickets form a FACE UP discard pile.
Special Rules : Double routes in use even at 2 players.  Toll Routes.  A neutral player for 2 player games.
Bonus Scoring : variable bonus points for remaining Toll Tokens.
Ticket To Ride: United Kingdom (2015)
Players : 2-4
Starting pieces: 35
Starting tickets: Draw 5 keep at least 3.
Tickets during game : Draw 3 keep at least 1.
Special Rules : Players start with a locomotive.  any 4 cards can be used as a locomotive.  Face up wagons are not wiped if 3 are locomotives.  Ferries.  Technology cards (purchased with Locomotives)
Bonus Scoring : No regular end game bonuses but some technologies provide end game bonuses.
Ticket To Ride: Pennsylvania (2015)
Players : 2-5
Starting pieces: 45
Starting tickets: Draw 5 keep at least 3.
Tickets during game : Draw 4 keep at least 1.
Special Rules : Ferries.  Stocks and Shares, special 2 player rules
Bonus Scoring : 15 points for most completed tickets.  Points for stocks and shares.
Ticket To Ride: Poland (2019)
Players : 2-4
Starting pieces: 35
Starting tickets: Draw 4 keep at least 2.
Tickets during game : Draw 2 keep at least 1.
Special Rules : Multi routes to countries usual able in all player counts.  Other double routes follow usual rules
Bonus Scoring : Points collected during game for linking countries.  No tickets go to countries.
Ticket To Ride: First Journey US(2017) / Europe 2018
Players : 2-4
Starting pieces: 20
Starting tickets: draw 2 keep both
Special Rules : These versions have simplified rules and a different maps.   Players take wagons from top of deck.  There is no face up selection.  Each completed ticket is worth 1 point.  First to 6 points wins.   Players reveal completed tickets during the same and are instantly replaced.  Players can take an action to discard both their unfinished tickets and draw new ones.
Bonus Scoring : A bonus point for connecting east/west sides of board
Ticket To Ride: Old West (2017)
Players : 2-6
Starting pieces: 40
Starting tickets: Draw 5 keep at least 3.
Tickets during game : Draw 4 keep at least 1.
Special Rules : Ferries.  Claimed routes MUST connect to your existing claimed routes.  Control Of cities with city markers.  Optional Alvin the Alien. (with different rules to Alvin and Dexter expansion)
Bonus Scoring : 15 points for most completed tickets. 10 points for longest route.
Ticket To Ride: Rails And Sails (2018)
Players : 2-5
Starting pieces: 20 trains and 40 ships suggestion but players can vary this.
Starting tickets: Draw 5 keep at least 3.
Tickets during game : Draw 4 keep at least 1.
Special Rules : Two separate piece types and cards for trains and ships.  Piece exchanging. harbours, tour tickets.
Bonus Scoring : Points given for routes connected to players harbours.
Ticket To Ride: Great Lakes (2018)
Players : 2-5
Starting pieces: 22 trains and 28 ships suggestion but players can vary this.
Starting tickets: Draw 5 keep at least 3.
Tickets during game : Draw 4 keep at least 1.
Special Rules : Two separate piece types and cards for trains and ships.  Piece exchanging. harbours.
Bonus Scoring : Points given for routes connected to players harbours.
Ticket To Ride: New York (2018)
Players : 2-4
Starting pieces: 15
Starting tickets: Draw 2 keep at least 1.
Tickets during game : Draw 2 keep at least 1.
Special Rules : Double Routes claimable in a 3 player game.
Bonus Scoring : Points for connected tourist destinations.
Ticket To Ride: Japan (2019)
Players : 2-5
Starting pieces: 20 per player (plus 16 shared Bullet Train markers)
Starting tickets: Draw 4 keep at least 2.
Tickets during game : Draw 3 keep at least 1.
Special Rules : Bullet Train useable by all players.  Game end triggers in usual way and if 2 or fewer bullet train pieces are left in supply.
Bonus Scoring : variable bonus point for contributing to Bullet train.
Ticket To Ride: Italy (2019)
Players : 2-5
Starting pieces: 45
Starting tickets: Draw 5 keep at least 3.
Tickets during game : Draw 4 keep at least 1.
Special Rules : Tickets to zones.  Ferry card
Bonus Scoring : Points for connecting different zones to your network.
Bonus Scoring : variable bonus point for contributing to Bullet train.
Ticket To Ride: Amsterdam (2019)
Players : 2-4
Starting pieces: 17
Starting tickets: Draw 2 keep at least 1.
Tickets during game : Draw 2 keep at least 1.
Special Rules : Double Routes claimable in a 3 player game. some routes give merchandise cards.
Bonus Scoring : Points for majorities of merchandise cards.
Ticket To Ride: Stay At Home (2020)
Players : 2-4
Starting pieces: 32
Starting tickets: draw 2 personal "Family" tickets and 2 from normal deck.  Keep at least 2.  Untaken tickets removed from the game
Tickets during game : Draw 3 keep at least 1.
Special Rules : Double routes used in 3 players games.  tickets personal to players 'character'.  'Family routes' which can be built in sections and used by multiple players.
Bonus Scoring : No end game bonus points

The German edition has two major differences. One is a new concept called "passengers", which gives a new way to make enormous amounts of points, which in one stroke can give make one player almost certain to win. Setup for "passengers" involves placing 50+ tiny cardboard discs in ordered piles on every city. IMO, this takes too long. The game works fine if you omit "Passengers", and just use the normal rules.
The other difference is that the train cards all have different models of locomotives and cars. People find it confusing that cards of the same value don't all look the same and have to be reminded to just look at the colour symbol in the corner. This ch

Welcome to [boardgames.se]! It seems you forgot to finalize your last sentence ...

Can you edit your answer? It looks like it submitted before you were finished as it cuts off mid word, it looked like it was going to be a great analysis of the german version but needs to be finished.

I've been doing some research to see how Marklin, Deutschland, and Germany differ.  Here's what I've found so far for sure.
Marklin vs. Deutschland vs. Germany.
Marklin came out first and had the most complex rules of the three.  It was a Limited Edition Special Release product which covered the map of Germany released in 2006.  Deutschland came out as the Basic Ticket to ride for Germany in 2012.  It got expanded with Deutschland 1902 in 2015 which reworked many of the mechanics from Marklin.  In 2017 both Deutschland and 1902 were put together and translated into English for the American Audience... so from here on out, I'll only be contrasting Marklin and Germany, because Deutschland and 1902 combined is the same as Germany.
Marklin has 11 of each coloured train car.
Germany has 12 of each coloured train car.
Marklin has 14 standard Locomotives and 6 +4 Locomotives
Germany only has 14 standard Locomotives.
Marklin has 10 Passenger Cards (this brings the total Train Car deck size to 110).
Germany doesn't use Passenger Cards (this leaves the total Train Car deck size at 102)
Marklin has 23 Long Distance Cards
Germany has 34 Long Distance Cards (And includes 1902)

Card Value Ranges are the same

Marklin has 23 Short Distance Cards value 5 - 11
Germany has 74 Long Distance Cards value 2 - 11

Card Values are nearly the same.

Marklin Globetrotter is worth 10
Germany Globetrotter is worth 15
Marklin has 15 Passengers (3x each player colour)
Germany has 60 Passengers (10x for black, red, yellow, green, blue, white)
Marklin has 74 Merchandise Tokens

16x 2pt                 White
12x 1pt, 2pt, 3pt       Yellow
6x  2pt, 3pt, 4pt       Red
1x  4pt, 5pt, 6pt, 7pt  Black
Germany mechanically combines Merchandise Tokens with Passengers.
In Marklin, you can move up to three passengers who collect Merchandise Tokens for points.  You can use Passenger Cards to move them along routes you haven't claimed.
In Germany, you simply claim a passenger, and whoever has the most and/or second most of each colour gets +20 or +10 points respectively.

Marklin Board has Token places Designated
Germany instead shows how many Meeple are placed in each city in the instructions, leaving the map's cities blank.

The cities used, colour of routes, and the distances are identical between each map.

If you want to convert the German Map to Marklin, here's a geographical comparison.
Town Left   Tokens  Meeple  -   Town Right  Tokens  Meeple
Kiel        Yellow  1       -   Rostock     White   1
Emden       White   1       -   Schwerin    White   1
Bremerhaven White   1       -   Hamburg     Red     4
Bremen      Yellow  1       -   Berlin      Black   5
Munster     Yellow  1       -   Magdeburg   White   1
Hannover    Yellow  1       -   Leipzig     Yellow  3
Dortmund    Yellow  1       -   Dresden     Yellow  1
Dusseldorf  Red     1       -   Erfurt      White   1
Kassel      White   1       -   Chemnitz    White   1
Koln        Red     4
Koblenz     White   1
Frankfurt   Red     4
Mainz       Yellow  1
Wurzburg    White   1
Mannheim    Yellow  1       -   Nurnberg    Yellow  1
Saarbrucken Yellow  1       -   Regensburg  White   1
Karlsruhe   Yellow  1       -   Augsburg    White   1
Stuttgart   Red     3       -   Munchen     Red     4
Ulm         White   1
Freiburg    White   1
Konstanz    White   1
Lindau      White   1
Denmark     -   1
Niederlande -   1
Frankreich  -   1
Osterreich  -   1 (one meeple split across both locations, first come, first serve)
I do not have a list of the tickets for Marklin to tell you what to pull or substitute from Germany.  If anyone has it (or just a good picture), I'd love to see the list.
TIN FOIL HAT TIME
These two paragraphs are all my own theory on why Marklin became Germany and the reason it happened that way.  It's all based on coincidence, so take it with a grain of salt.
Ticket to Ride won the Spiel des Jahres (Germany's Game of the Year) award in 2004.  2 years later they release a German map.  Gaming is a much bigger deal in Germany than it is in the US, and thus making a German Map that the German people would recognize would probably sell really well.  Somewhere around this time, Marklin, the German toy company that makes trains approaches the company that makes the toy game and says, "Let's work together."  So they do.  Because they are using pictures of the Marklin trains, as well as the Marklin logo all over, Days of Wonder has to pay Marklin a royalty for each game printed... So they make a special game that suits what both are doing... i.e. Ticket to Ride Marklin.
Later on, Days of Wonder is looking to reprint a German Map, but either doesn't want to pay the royalty fee to Marklin, or legally can't reproduce the game, and thus needs to make a legally distinct game from their Marklin version.  This is where Deutschland comes from.  A 100% German game for the German people that is almost exactly TTR USA shaped like Germany.  Later on they give Deutschland the USA 1910 expansion treatment with Deutschland 1902.  This brings in some variant of the Marklin passenger mechanics while still remaining as legally distinct as possible.  A few years later they want to bring it to the US, but printing up a third map would cost money, so they use the same map (one of TTR's biggest strengths globally is how universal they are) as Germany, but fix the instructions because that's cheaper.  Low and behold, we have Marklin, Deustchland, 1902, and Germany.
If anybody else could prove or disprove this theory, that'd be cool too.


text:
In Yggdrasil, which character abilities are most useful/effective?
I've played enough Pandemic (another co-operative game with varying player abilities) to know that some characters' abilities are more useful than others, or at least lead to a higher probability of winning.
I've only played Yggdrasil a couple of times, but I already wonder if some characters are more likely to win than others. Abilities like being allowed to re-roll dice (Tyr) or +1 to all combat (Thor) seem more useful than, for instance, the ability that lets you use the same action more than once in a turn.
Is this fair? Are some characters' abilities demonstrably better than others?
Edit: The abilities are:
Odin

Takes two Enemy cards from the stack instead of one, chooses which one he wants to play and puts the other one back on or under the deck.

Thor

Has a permanent +1 bonus for combat.

Frey

Can perform 4 actions during his turn (instead of 3), but they still have to be performed in different worlds.

Heimdall

Can take 4 counters instead of 3 when he looks for souls.

Tyr

Can roll the die twice and choose one of the results in
  any situation.

Freyja

Can perform 2 of her 3 actions in the same world.

Yes, there are tiers.
In order of effectiveness and efficiency:
Frey - 33% more actions than any other god, can excel either as pointman, support, or solo, since his play engine is self-sufficient
Thor - always present combat bonus gives great advantage for two worlds, Asgard and Jotunheim; less need for Nidavellir, Alfanheim, and Midgard
Tyr - better combat ability; reroll can affect a number of enemy effects (Fenrir, Jormungand, Hel, Surt); less need for Nidavellir, Alfanheim, and Midgard
Freyja - very situational advantages; otherwise, no direct efficiency bonuses:
-- can upgrade weapons faster than any other god, which lets other gods equip weaker versions on their turn, since gods cannot get equipment unless the next version is available, great for early attacks
-- double Midgard to get over a sunken island on her turn is more cost efficient than using the Vanaheim track
-- double Niflheim to re-distribute elves and vikings quickly
-- can pull off miracle saves for when three enemies cross the line for defeat conditions, by pushing back two enemies on Asgard and then using the Vanaheim track for the third, a feat that not even the mighty fighter Thor can do
Odin - only better if he comes before Tyr in the play order, to manage enemy effects
Heimdall - drains the viking pool too quickly after cleaning the white/blue bag; three enemy effects shut down his power very easily
With fewer players, usefulness of Freyja's ability decreases, usefulness of Frey's ability increases
With more players, usefulness of Frey's ability decreases, usefulness of Freyja's ability increases (due to weapon sharing restrictions)
See this thread on BoardGameGeek titled The powers of the gods - Odin awfully unmighty? Frey the best of all?

Frejya gets hosed more if he has to deal with Fenrir though, as his ability often requires utilizing it with a 3rd action to make better use of it.
I too like to see Thor in more games than not.
Also, when you add in the Asgard expansion, some of the existing Gods shine when using their Trance ability, as well as interact with the new set of 6 Gods.  Not to mention Trancing was made to deal with the game being more difficult with larger player counts


text:
Zeus Role on Odysseus
Besides the Zeus' power of deciding to end the turn prematurely, he also fills the vacated space when the ship moves.
Does he choose the "adventure disc" to be placed, or merely selects one at random?

Per the rules:

Zeus now chooses a new adventure disk
  from the reserve and places it on the
  empty space where Odysseus' ship
  started the round.

I think the word "choose" is a clear indicator that it doesn't have to be a random disk.  Especially as it's specified to be a "face-up reserve"!

Thank you! In the Italian version the wording is less precise.

Well, hopefully the rules I'm looking at aren't just another bad translation of a foreign version ;)


text:
What is the definition of an unused Station?
In the rules for the European game, the last sentence under "Building a Train Station" states

A player is never required to build any Stations. For each Station a
  player has not used, four points are added to his score at the end of
  the game.

Does this mean that

four points are added if he does not build a train station, or
the points are added only if he builds the station but does not use it for one of his routes, i.e. he may put a station in but then not use a route which the station opens up?

It means for each Station that you don't play, you get four points at the end of the game. The idea is to force you to weigh up the cost (cards, loss of bonus points) against the benefits (completing your route).
It would be a pretty weird rule if it rewarded you for placing Stations, but making sure you don't use them on any route...

An unused station is one you have not put on the board.
For each station still in your supplies at end of game, you get those 4 points. If you've put it on the board, it's been used, even if you don't need it there to complete your tickets.
I base this upon extensive play of TTR:E on daysofwonder.com.


text:
When tunnelling, what happens when the cards drawn do not match those played?
In Ticket to Ride Europe, when I plan to build on top of tunnels, what happens when none of the drawn cards match the colours I have in hand?  For example,
Tunnel length: 3 grey segments
Played cards: 3 red cards
Drawn cards: 3 blue cards

What additional cards am I supposed to play in the above case?

If none of the drawn cards match the colour of the cards you chose to play, then you are in luck - the tunnel does not cost any additional cards. To put it another way, the tunnel costs 0 additional cards. This case isn't explicitly discussed in the rules, but I think it's quite clear.

When attempting to claim a Tunnel route, a player first lays down the number of cards required by the length of the route. Then the three top cards from the Train draw pile are turned face-up. For each card revealed whose colour matches the colour of the cards played to claim the Tunnel, an additional card of the same colour (or a Locomotive) must now be played from his hand. Only then can the player successfully claim the Tunnel route.

I'd say it's pretty explicit. Paraphrasing for brevity: For each matching card, you must play an additional card to claim the route. If there are zero matching cards, you must play zero additional cards.


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Do starting positions make a significant difference in Senji?
I had my first game of Senji a couple of days ago, and it's clear that the starting positions for each player are very different. (Senji map: http://goo.gl/LuHTA)
In a 6 player game it seems to me that the Yellow player and the Black player have a bit of an edge since their territory is easier to defend. On the other hand the Purple player is surrounded by 4 out of 5 players, so seems more likely to be attacked.
Do you think it is easier to progress in the game depending on your starting position? Does this mean your starting position will determine your strategy?

The most important part of senji from my experience was the ability to attack.  Unlike a normal area of control game where the primary purpose of troops is to conquer territories, in Senji the primary purpose of soldiers from a time perspective is to die in combat thus gaining you honor.  While holding territories does give you more actions each turn, it also makes you more vulnerable to attack due to the very low piece limit on troops.
Naval attacks confer fairly low penalty compared to the high value of the attack opportunities they can create, so naval connectivity is usually the most interesting feature of territorial positions rather than land connectivity (another difference from other area of control games).  As a result, black, yellow, and purple are in the more advantaged offensive positions in that they have starting territory on both seas, allowing them to attack almost any territory on the board (with the exception of the two inland territories controlled by red and green).  Thus, if there is a tempting opportunity for combat (such as a situation where you can win a 6 on 5 battle), these players will almost certainly have it available, while other players only have a 50% chance that they will be able to get to that territory.
The check against this is that the seas go both ways: these players can also be attacked by anyone from pretty much anywhere.  This is less valuable than in a classic are of control game, but attacking a player that has just taken a fourth territory can matter a lot.
Do they make a significant difference?  Not when compared to games like Game of Thrones.  I would say starting positions in Senji are more comparable to starting positions in classic Risk; they are not symmetric, but the map is connected enough that the asymmetry is merely enough to add nuance rather than throw off game balance.


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What is the name of this red creature card
In Magic the Gathering I played a guy that was using a mono - red goblin deck which exploited Impact Tremors ability with a certain creature that "blinks" out of the game when another spell is cast now I cant for the life of me remember the name of the card.
I tried the card database on Magic wizards and got no luck. All that I can remember was that it was mono - red goblin creature of some sort. that had something a long the lines of this in its effect text:
"Whenever a spell is cast remove (said creature) from the game until end of turn then return it to the battlefield".
Can anyone help me out? I really want to obtain this card...

The card you are looking for is Norin the Wary. I found this by searching on magiccards.info for

c!r t:creature o:"Exile ~" o:return

This searches for a mono-red (c!r) creature (t:creature) that has in its text "Exile [this creature]" and "return [to the battlefield]". That resulted in only two cards, and only one triggered on casting a spell.

A similar query in Gatherer returns 18 possible cards.  One of which is Norin the Wary.  http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?action=advanced&color=+[R]&type=+[%22Creature%22]&text=+[exile]+[end]+[of]+[turn]+[battlefield]+[return]

It seems like that search found more cards because it's less restrictive regarding color and card text. And Norin the Wary is the only one in that list that does what the question described.

I said it was a goblin creature not a human but that card has a similar affect only it didn't activate on attacking with a creature.

Maybe it is something like http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Card/Details.aspx?multiverseid=391874 , or something else with a dash ability?

@NathanTaylor, I think it's pretty certain that this is your intended card even though it isn't a goblin. Because firstly, this is a very popular card that abuses enter the battlefield abilities, and secondly, The only red goblin that even uses the word "exile" is Lightning Crafter, something totally different. Note that "remove from the game" as you stated in your question does not exist anymore, it is renamed to "exile", so when you do a card search you should use exile

@IvoBeckers it may be an old card then but it was definitely a goblin as it had a goblin as the picture and it was a constant effect not a dash ability i'm not sure where it was from...

@NathanTaylor even very old cards that do have old wording printed on it will have updated Oracle Text. This is the leading rule of the card and it is this text that is searched for when using card search engines. There simply is no red Goblin card in existence that has "exile" (or removed from the game) other than Lightning Crafter

@NathanTaylor How sure are you, really, that the actual card type was Goblin? When I first saw Norin the Wary, I thought it was a goblin because of the picture.

@murgatroid99 He was using other cards that had affects for goblin creatures on the field the guy goes to my Friday night magic i'll ask him cus its killing me haha

That would help. But you should know that Norin the Wary is the only red creature ever printed that has an effect that's even remotely similar to the one you described.

@NathanTaylor This is your card. Period.

I may have gotten some of the description wrong im not sure I working from very little recollection I just know that it kicked my ass and I want it :P

@NathanTaylor Then perhaps buy it, and select this as the answer?

Sorry for the misunderstanding guys this was my card :)


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Does a unique collection give 4 or 7 points?
In Gloria Picktoria, does a unique collection give 4 points because it is unique, or does it give 7 points because it is unique (4) but also the longest collection of that type in the game (3)?
Logically I would say that it gives just 4 points, but my rulebook is not clear on this point. What is the correct rule?

It only gives 4 points for being unique. Unfortunately, the English version of the rules dropped the nice scoring example in the German version of the rules.

Ronja: 8 Punkte - Niemand außer Ronja besitzt Masken. Das bringt ihr 4 Punkte ein. Bei den Statuen geht sie - wie Max - leer aus. Auch bei den Zahnketten bekommt sie keine Punkte, denn Max und Lea besitzen mehr davon. 4 Punkte bringt Ronja ihre konkurrenzlose Hutsammlung.

Roughly, this translates to. Ronja 8 points. No one but Ronja owns Masks. That brings her 4 points. As with Max, the statues score her nothing. Also, for the necklaces she scores no points, because Max and Lea have more of them. 4 points for Ronja's unrivaled collection of hats.
It is clear from the images in the rulebook, that Ronja is the only player with Dark Green Mask cards, and Yellow Hat cards. Since she only scored 4 + 4 = 8 for her two unique collections, you don't score those sets for longest of that type as well.

Ah! That makes sense, since I asked the question we have been playing with the unique collections giving just 4 points instead of 7 as we did initially, but it's nice to see that someone took the time and effort to find the reason behind my confusion. I play the Dutch version of the game and it appears that (like the English one) it's also lacking the clear example that would have prevented the confusion. Thanks again for your answer.


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Order of building landmarks in Machi Koro
The objective of the game (base game) is to be the first to build all four land marks. For fear of being stolen from or falling behind, I tend to buy them by order of increasing cost. If at one point I can afford more than one at the same time, I will buy the most expensive one. This works alright, but I've never really considered changing my strategy before
Are there situations where this is not a feasible strategy?

I feel there are often times where considering a more detailed approach can help squeeze more optimal play. The base game has 4 cards:

Train Station (4) : Roll 1 or 2 dice
Shopping Mall (10) : Each Cafe/Bakery type earns +1
Amusement Park (16) : Doubles grant an extra turn
Radio Tower (22) : You may re-roll each turn

These are all characteristically different. The train station opens up the opportunity to access 7-12 roll values which may be something you want or something you very much don't want if others have cards with these values. Definitely do not buy this cheap card on a whim because you may be wasting 4 good coins that could be used elsewhere.  Notice that even if you do not have cards with 7-12, you may want this one just to keep opponents with many 1-3 valued cards from getting any hits at all.
The Shopping Mall is clearly very dependent on your holdings of cafe bakery types. For what could be as little as 1 full round around the table more you, you could potentially afford the Amusement Park, and then further the Radio Tower, so again do not buy the Mall simply because it's affordable unless you feel it strongly increases many cards in your holding.
I would in general gloss over the Amusement Park and go straight for the Radio Tower typically, as for 6 coins more, having the power to retry your roll every turn is far more powerful than occasionally getting doubles which happens 1 in 6 rolls. With the ability to re-roll, consider how much more attractive that looks.

Another thing to keep in mind is that if someone has all landmarks except the Train Station, it's very hard to stop that player from winning.  I therefore think that it's a bit easier to save up for a Radio Tower earlier in the game than later.


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Alternative to Dixit Odyssey voting boards+pegs
I recently bought Dixit Odyssey to enable more players at the same time. One thing about Odyssey that I absolutely don't like, is the new voting system with the cards and pegs. It's a lot harder to tell who's already placed a vote and we generally end up needlessly waiting for everyone to vote (when everyone already has).
We'd really like to go back to using upside down numbered tokens to vote with. Where can I get those for 12 players (in the right colors)?

If you ask the other players who is still thinking it will help speed up the votes as players will realize others are waiting on them.

There aren't official tokens for more than 7 players. Instead, you can have the rule that people hold their hands over their voting cards on the table to indicate readiness. That makes it easy to tell if someone is still deciding, and if you hold the voting card face down against the table it stops the pegs falling out.

We found the card+peg system to be much easier to use than the tokens. After laying the picture cards face up in a line all players take their voting card and peg out of sight (under the table, hidden behind their hands, etc), place the peg in the hole they choose, then grip the card in a way that their hands hide all the holes (and the peg) and hold their hands over to the center of the table. This way we can all see who is ready, but the votes remain secret until everyone reveals them.

When playing with such many players, especially when some of them are playing for the first time, we have one person holding one part of the box and collecting all the voting cards - when someone is ready he put it here.
Box is usually hold above the heads of all other sitting people (when playing with so many players there always is someone not sitting by the table so it is not the problem), to noone see the the answers. Usually the person holding the box is the one checking all the answers then, and tracking the score - it is more easy to sort and check all the voting cards in the box. Many of the players usually don't want to know the exact scoring mechanisms, so it is fine for them.
One disadvantage of this solution is when people stars to throw their voting cards to the box, inside of putting them gently. If they are doing so, sometimes, the pegs are moving out - anyway you just need to tell people to be more gentle.

For each player, any face-down writing surface will do.
The standalone version of Dixit Odyssey's 12 player boards are annoying to use.  Unfortunately the face down chits that come with the basic Dixit version are numbered 1 through 6 to accommodate 6 players only.  For games of 7 or more players, consider replacing these chits with an opaque writing surface. Players can write their numbered guess on it, then turn it face down and rest their writing utensil on it.  The storyteller can see this, and call out, "Pencils down, everyone?" as necessary to move things along.
Dry erase boards and markers work spectacularly for this purpose. I have used the colored dry erase boards from Wits and Wagers, as well as the dry erase pads from Telestrations Party pack.  Players don't even need to have their own colors and those colors don't need to match their bunny color (and whatever extra pieces are acting as player tokens for the additional players).  When scoring players can move thier own piece or tell someone to move their piece - confusion over that is minimal.
For people who own the standalone Odyssey version of Dixit, that has the board with 12 numbered slots for cards so this next part isn't necessary.  For people who have the basic Dixit (with expansions hopefully) they can again use use any writing surface to represent slots 7-12 when displaying the additional cards beyond 6.

There's a wide variety of cards that have numbers on them. The cheapest is probably simple playing cards; you can get a deck for about a dollar, so three dollars will accommodate twelve players (one suit for each player). You could also buy index cards and make your own; it would be cheaper and more customized, but more work, and the cards wouldn't take as much abuse.

@Joe what Acccum is trying to convey may be that decks of playing cards can be used because they are numbered and opaque.  And i guess jacks and better can be used for games with 11+.  there are only 4 suits per deck so additional decks can be used to cover more players.  Acccum build out your Answer a little and I will upvote because it's actually very practical given how many Dixit players will also have decks of playing cards laying around.


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In Diamonsters, what happens to the cards on your monster board at the end of a round?
The rules are very unclear on this. Do we take these cards on hand for the next round? Are they discarded? Or shuffled into the draw pile?
And do I keep the current 5 cards in my hand, or do I start over with cards 1-5?

Could you please create a tag wiki for diamonsters so that the tag doesn't get removed in 6 months?

Based on reading around at forums such as BoardGameGeeks, the usual approach is to reset the hands every time a diamond is won. That seems fairly settled.
As to your main question, I have been discarding all collected monster cards each round. It seems to me that as the deck slowly dwindles the game is likely to get more challenging, because everyone has increasing information about the deck. Resetting the hand is important because the uniform hand is a basic concept of the game, but I don't see the point in playing 3-5 rounds that are exactly identical. That is, if you reset the deck as well, each round is merely a replay with a different shuffle. The limit of 3-5 rounds then becomes an even more arbitrary cutoff than it already is.


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Gleemax interactions
This deals with Unhinged cards,  so competitive REL is useless here.  Imagine that I have a Gleemax on the field. It says:

You choose all targets for all spells and abilities.

Somebody sitting next to me plays an Ass Whuppin' and tries to target my Gleemax. Can I choose the target for the Whuppin'?

Destroy target silver-bordered permanent in any game you can see from your seat.

What if we both have a Gleemax? Then what?

Keep in mind that, even ignoring competitive REL, many Un cards don't work within the Comprehensive Rules, including the two in your question. Whatever answers you get will just be unverifiable interpretation.

@murgatroid99 Seems like a good reason to consider closing the question, no?

@Waterseas Whoops, the system rejected your edit because we both made it at the same time I guess. Sorry.

@Rainbolt I don't care if it was counted as my edit or not XD As long as it's fixed.

Real Answer
Unhinged cards bend the rules. You and your friends should decide how to handle the situation.
How I Would Settle It
If someone in another game gives you an Ass Whuppin', there's nothing that Gleemax can do about it.
Gleemax must to be referring to spells and abilities in your current game. Otherwise, you would have to choose all targets for all spells and abilities for every game in the entire world. That's impossible to do in a timely manner. Also, by the time Ass Whuppin' crosses over between games, it's too late! It has already been cast, and the targets have already been chosen.
Multiple Gleemaxs follow timestamp rules. The controller of latest played Gleemax gets to choose all targets for spells and abilities.

diego has rulings that the games temporarily merge for the purpose of counterspells. I agree with him that this ruling would extend to Gleemax.

@ikegami All Mark Rosewater really says is that you can counter Ass Whuppin' from another game (by some combination of handwavy mechanics).

Yes. And all you said is that it's the opposite for Gleemax. Why do you think you can react by countering the spell but not by changing its targets?

@ikegami Because Gleemax is not a counter spell.

I know it's not a counterspell. I asked why do you think it's different for Gleemax? What's special about Gleemax that prevents you from reacting to Ass Whoopin with it when you can react with counterspells?

@ikegami sigh Your comments keep morphing after I reply, so I'll just wait the five minutes before I reply.

He didn't say you couldn't either. So again, what's do you feel is the difference between reacting by countering and reacting by changing targets?

@ikegami He didn't say you could, and he didn't say you couldn't. Great. We've established that that ruling has nothing whatsoever to do with this question. When you establish that the ruling found by diego is at all relevant here, then I will answer your question.

Also, I did directly answer your question. Gleemax is not a counter spell. That's the difference. It happens to be that difference that makes MaRo's ruling not apply here. If you want to repeat your question after I have directly answered it, then at least explain why my original answer does not satisfy you.

@Rainbolt You're right: Mark Rosewater's ruling is not directly applicable to this situation. However, there is also an obvious analogy between countering an Ass Whuppin' in another game with a counterspell and redirecting an Ass Whuppin' in another game with Gleemax. According to the ruling, Ass Whuppin' creates an exception to normal counterspell targeting rules that allow it to target a spell in another game. Can you explain why you think a similar exception should not be made for Gleemax?

@murgtroid99 How would this alternative sequence of events play out? Player 1 in Game A announces that he is casting Ass Whuppin', targeting Player 2 in Game B. The spell has been cast and targets have been chosen. It's already too late for Gleemax to do anything. Gleemax doesn't change targets - it just allows you to choose them. There is no point in time where the games are bridged but targets are not chosen. So Gleemax can't do anything.

If Gleemax could choose the targets, then basically, every time someone casts an Ass Whuppin', everyone in viewing distance that controls a Gleemax should be able to choose it's targets before they are ever chosen. That obviously can't work.

That's a good point. I didn't really think about that. I think your first paragraph after your second header would be more useful if you concentrated specifically on the issues with having Gleemax affect Ass Whuppin' spells in other games, like you just explained.

@murgtroid99 I want the answer to focus primarily on how I think the spirit of the card was intended to work, because that's what Unhinged is all about. I will edit this in as a secondary supporting reason. One sec. Edit: Done. Look better?

That's basically what I was looking for. The next sentence reads a little oddly now, though.

As the other answers say do what ever your play group think is most fun. That being said I would say that if you control Gleemax and an Ass Whuppin' is being cast on a card in your game you get to choose the target of the Ass Whuppin'.
This is based on a few things that Mark Rosewater (Head Designer of Magic, and Silver Bordered Rules Manager) has said on his Tumblr. He has said that players in either the originating game or the targeted game can counter the Ass Whuppin' he has also said that if a player from the originating game counters it a player in the targeted game can counter the counter. From this we can gather that Ass Whuppin' can somehow merge the stacks of 2 separate games temporarily, because of this fact I see no reason for Gleemax to not effect spells on the stack in its game.
As for multiple Gleemaxes there are a few ways to rule it. One would be having the effects go by time stamp order, so whoever played the second one would end up choosing targets. You could have it act like a replacement effect (the wording isn't exactly right for it to be a replacement effect, but templating on Un-cards isn't the best anyway) in this case whoever casts the spell would decide what order to apply the redirection effects (probably applying theirs last and getting to choose their own targets) or there is Rosewater's method:

Here’s what I recommend. Active player goes first and removes a legal target. The other player then goes and removes a legal target. You keep going back and forth until only one legal target remains. That’s the target.

I would say for simplicity that Gleemax only affects an Ass Whuppin' originating from your game.
The problem is there isn't a true answer to the question as neither card works within the magic rules framework.
Ass Whuppin' bridges games temporarily, does that mean it goes onto the target games stack or the original games stack, or some version of both?
Gleemax doesn't explicitly restrict you from backing out of a spell cast and since paying costs is done after target selection it is trivial to just back out of a spell that is targeted like you don't like.
Luckily both these problems are resolved by being silver bordered, the answer is "do whatever everyone agrees to". Decide ahead of time how to resolve these kinds of situations and stick to it. Note I mean something general like using a judge or by democratic vote.


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Villages card game rules
In the Villages card game, we did not understand a few rules.

Can you pick up cards from your villages during your turn?
Can multicolor/light units switch which village they are in if possible?
if there is a village made of light units, what color is that village?
Just how much is the game like gin rummy?

Answering the questions in order:

Can you pick up cards from your villages during your turn?

No. when a card is played to a village, it remains with that village until either it is destroyed, it is kidnapped, or all units of that village are destroyed. The singular exception (that I am aware of) is a guest unit in an Inn - by the Inn's effect, that guest unit may return to your hand at the start of your turn.
[edit: The "Distant Lands" expansion adds a second building card that allows two additional guest units (one of each color adjacent to the village's color) to be in the village, and like the Inn, they may return to your hand at the start of your turn.]

Can multicolor/light units switch which village they are in if possible?

As noted in the previous question, the only unit that could "switch villages" is a guest unit residing in an Inn.

if there is a village made of light units, what color is that village?

A village's color does not change, even if the only remaining units are multicolor or light units. The rules do not specify whether or not a red village with only Light units remaining is considered destroyed or not, only that there is no such thing as a "Light village" (that is, when the village is created, there must be at least one non-light unit in it)

According to the description of units in the official Villages Wiki colorless/light units can fill in for any color. This includes being part of the Village founders. For example:

Red • Red • Light

Or

Light • Light • Red

However they (the light units) cannot form a village of their own.


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Investment Mechanics
I'm designing a board game about gem collecting. To collect gems players must invest on different gems in their turns (i.e. resource collecting is done using investment). Investment part in my design is as simple as follows:
There are 6 mines that can produce different gems, numbered 1 through 6. Each player chooses 3 gem mines then toss a d6 die. If the die number is equal to one of the chosen gem mines, then the player collects a gem.
This mechanic doesn't work too well for me, so I am looking for suggestions to improve it.
If you have a suggestion and you know that another game exists that uses a similar mechanic, please include that in your answer.

It's kind of unclear what you're asking here. How does throwing a die equate to investment in your game? What do you mean by investment mechanic? Just... anything where you spend resources now in order to get more later? So from Settlers you're basically calling the entire game an investment mechanic, building roads in order to build settlements in order to get more resources?

I edited your question to make it less broad. To do this, I had to focus on one aspect of your question: improving your own mechanic. If you're looking for information on other resource collection/investment mechanics, I would recommend you make a different question for this. Now let's see if we can get this re-opened.

I think the mechanic you came up with doesn't work well for 1 dice per player. Basically you're taking the luck of the dice roll, and adding another luck factor. You can cancel this out by allowing the use of more dice. What if the gems you collect can be used to purchase more dice?
You should take a look at the way resource collection is managed in Stone Age, as an inspiration.

Another idea: each player have 4 tokens, the player that is his/her turn must assign tokens to 6 mines (e.g. 2 tokens to mine#3, one token to mine#4 and one token to mine#6). After assignment the player toss 4 dice with 4 different colors(each color represent a gem type) and finally he/she collects N gem of color C if there is N token on mine number M and dice of color C is M! (e.g. if the player places 2 tokens on mine#3 and red dice is 3 then he/she collects 2 red gem)


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What cards give +1/+1 counters to all friendly creatures?
I wonder if there is any card that gives +1/+1 counters to all creature I have on the field? I have Krenko, Mob Boss, Abzan Battle Priest and Mirror Entity so it would be awesome to have +1/+1 counters on all my goblins.

Ajani Goldmane's -1 ability will give counters to all your creatures and also give them vigilance until end of turn:

−1: Put a +1/+1 counter on each creature you control. Those creatures gain vigilance until end of turn.

Ajani Steadfast's -2 ability will also give counters to all your creatures

−2: Put a +1/+1 counter on each creature you control and a loyalty counter on each other planeswalker you control.

Abzan Ascendancy also gives +1/+1 counters to all creatures you have on the battlefield at that moment:

When Abzan Ascendancy enters the battlefield, put a +1/+1 counter on each creature you control.

Archangel of Thune will work awesome with Abzan Battle Priest(the one you already have):

Whenever you gain life, put a +1/+1 counter on each creature you control.

Borborygmos may also be used to get +1/+1 counters. And it's a big 6/7 Trample creature

Whenever Borborygmos deals combat damage to a player, put a +1/+1 counter on each creature you control.

But Cathars' Crusade might actually be (one of the) best for your scenario. That card and Krenko, Mob Boss... I'm adding red to my Abzan deck!

Whenever a creature enters the battlefield under your control, put a +1/+1 counter on each creature you control.

Celestial Ancient can also give +1/+1 counters to all your creatures:

Whenever you cast an enchantment spell, put a +1/+1 counter on each creature you control.

Decree of Savagery for four +1/+1 counters

Put four +1/+1 counters on each creature you control.

Mikaeus, the Lunarch a Legendary Human Cleric that will only cost you 2 mana to get a +1/+1 counter on all your creatures(Mikaeus might die in process)

{T}, Remove a +1/+1 counter from Mikaeus: Put a +1/+1 counter on each other creature you control.

Phalanx Leader's Heroic ability can also give all your creatures a +1/+1 counter

Heroic — Whenever you cast a spell that targets Phalanx Leader, put a +1/+1 counter on each creature you control.

Tempt With Glory

Tempting offer — Put a +1/+1 counter on each creature you control. Each opponent may put a +1/+1 counter on each creature he or she controls. For each opponent who does, put a +1/+1 counter on each creature you control.

Titania's Boon

Put a +1/+1 counter on each creature you control.

As Mephy pointed in his comment, Gavony Township can also be used to give all your creatures a +1/+1 counter.

{2}{G}{W}, {T}: Put a +1/+1 counter on each creature you control.

Gavony Township is very good at it because its a land, allowing you to have more spells in the deck.

any reason for a downvote?

I like using a combination of Battlefield Thaumaturge and Thrive.

You can use the advanced features of the Gatherer to search for the phrase "put a +1/+1 counter on each", in quotes, in the rules text.

http://gatherer.wizards.com/Pages/Search/Default.aspx?action=advanced&text=+[%22Put%20a%20%2b1/%2b1%20counter%20on%20each%20creature%20you%20control%22]

This finds every single card that puts a +1/+1 counter on each creature you control, and it will continue to do so as new sets are added.

Vigor, is a good 6 drop that will give you what you need for the krenko.