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Can a creature token represent a different creature token?
I have quite a few cards that have the ability to create creature tokens when they're played or their ability is activated.  The only problem is I don't have the specific token for each one, but I have a handful of other creature tokens.
Can I substitute creature token Y for creature token X? For example, if the ability allows creating two 2/2 Black Zombies, but I don't have any Black Zombie tokens, could I use, say, a Green Wolf and a White Human to substitute as placeholders?  I don't see why not since the tokens are pretty much empty objects that are filled in whenever they're brought into battle.

You can represent your tokens however you want with

coins
dice
sleeves
deckboxes
your smartphone, etc
If you have different types of tokens, I normally put them face down.

But there are some things to be careful of however. (mostly applies to competitive scenarios)

If you have many of the same token, Avoid using dice to represent the quantity.  If you do this, you'll have issues differentiating tapped tokens from untapped, and tokens with summoning sickness from tokens without.
If a card produces a token, avoid turning that card face-down for your token.  If that card is in your graveyard, your graveyard is where it belongs.  find another object to  represent your token with.

To Summarize:  You can represent your tokens in whatever manner you want, so long as they're clearly and accurately represented.

As a note, I would avoid using other creature tokens face-up to represent your token creatures, because that creates the possibility for confusion, especially if e.g. your opponent somehow manages to create a White Human token.

(Also, I'd encourage avoiding using dice for the tokens themselves since it's so hard to distinguish tapped from untapped state on dice.  Otherwise, though, an excellent answer all about.)

Coins don't work since you can't tap them. Dice don't work well either.

@ikegami heads or tails?

ug, I wouldn't allow that heads/tails for tap status. Otherwise unused lands (islands for a red player), unsleeved cards in an otherwise sleeved deck and face-down sideboard cards all work better.

You didn't list proxy cards (you can print them yourself), but I think they are also OK.

@AbelMorelos I know someone who uses Pack Rats as Pack Rat tokens

Dice alone may not work well for a token, but I've found that using facedown cards (or even just deck protectors) with dice atop them to represent the number of tokens works well. That way you can have separate facedown cards for tapped, untapped and summoning-sick tokens. Different colored dice or deck protectors can be used to differentiate between the type of token if you have multiple types.

Also, be aware that in competitive tournaments, coins (or other forms of money) should never be on the table.

@PhoenixFlames wait what?  I've never heard that before.  I think your statement is quite dubious, especially since there are cards that tell you to flip coins.

"No money on the table" is not a hard rule, but a good guideline to avoid awkward situations with the tournament organisers and the judges, since a lot of the TOs prohibit transactions involving money in their venue except from licensed shops (Grand Prixs have that policy).
Judges might suspect some form of bribery going on and will likely ask you to use something else to represent tokens. Money is just generally frowned upon, also because WotC wants to distinguish their game from gambling. Now if the game instructs you to flip a coin, that is obviously okay.

@PhoenixFlames "If you let me win, I'll give you a quarter"

You can use whatever physical object you want to represent a token, including actual MtG cards.
The only conditions are that it has to be clear which object represents which token, and that each object can be tapped, i.e. you have to be able to tell whether a token is tapped or untapped.
Of course you must also avoid confusion with real cards, so you best don't use a card as a token if the same card also appears in your or your opponent's deck.

I think this answer is the best - it gets to the core of the issue: clarity. You have to make your board state as clear and simple as reasonably possible. If you had a deck that generates lots of soldier tokens and saproling tokens, it would be very wise to have either a set of white and a set of green dice, or a good supply of token cards. It would be a poor decision to have a lot of the same color dice.

Yes, you can use anything to represent a token. As long as it is clear to both players what the token actually represents.
However, using a token of a different type can be confusing. Instead of using a different token I have seen the following used:

face down card from a different deck (as long as this wont be confused with morph)
empty card sleeve
scraps of paper

You don't need to use those pre-printed tokens, they are only a convenience. You can use a scrap of paper with the stats written on it, an upside down magic card, anything at all really. It only gets complicated if you have multiple different types of tokens in play at once, then you will want to make sure you can distinguish them.
You could use a normal pack of playing cards, with each suit being a different type, for example.
If you start generating large number of tokens (eg more than 5) its probably easiest to use a small piece of paper with a name written on it and a dice to show how many of those tokens there are. Then if you attack with some of them, make a new card with the same name with a dice and use one to represent tapped and one untapped tokens of that name.

If I don't have the actual token I like to use the blank advertising cards that I sometimes get in boosters instead of tokens.
Failing that you can always order packs of tokens for fairly cheap on eBay if you want to.


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How long does mana from Burning-Tree Emissary stay around?
Does mana added to your pool from Burning-Tree Emissary get destroyed when the card that added it is destroyed?

The mana created by Burning-Tree Emissary is no different than then mana created by Forest and Mountain cards. Keep in mind the ability of a Forest reads "{T}: Add {G} to your mana pool."
As usual, it remains there until used or until the current step or phase ends.

500.4. When a step or phase ends, any unused mana left in a player’s mana pool empties. This turn-based action doesn’t use the stack.

Thanks!  I was thinking it was too easy to gain two free mana for the whole game

@ikegami, But since there's no mana burn now, doesn't this mean that the penalty it used to have is no longer there?

@Parcerier, Correct. By following the link in the answer, you can see it has not receive any errata. The whole point of removing mana burn was to simplify the game by removing a rule that had little effect on the game. (I'll dig up the announcement if you ask me to.) Recreating the rule through an errata would have been counter-productive.

source: Stack Exchange

license: Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0/

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Can I exceed the maximum Army size by moving in more units?
Lets say I have two units at Winterfell, and two units at White Harbor. I can march from White Harbor. Can I do that with both units and march to Winterfell, and by doing so break the maximum limit of three units at Winterfell?
I haven't found any rule saying something about marching from somewhere and making a total army of, say, six or more in one area...

No, from the rule book, on page 11:

The Golden Rule: You may never move (or retreat) a unit so that it violates your current Army Supply limits (as indicated on the Supply Track). Should you do so by accident, you must immediately destroy enough units to make your armies in Supply again.

Is there a way to kill off your own units? There was a situation where a player wanted to vacate a region to prevent a second player from attacking/refilling his battle cards but I couldn't find anything that would allow this save for doing it by 'accident'.

@EvilAmarant7x, that is a different question, hich normally would require a new post, but I will give you an answer here anyway. Yes, you are allowed to march out of a region. when doing so, you can leave a token that shows that an area is controlled by your house, even though it currently is unoccupied by any of your units. Yo are incorrect in believing that it is possible to vacate a region by accident. Remember that single units are not armies, and need not be supplied. You can always have as many single units in any number of regions (wooden pieces are a limiting factor).

Ah, I didn't explain my question well as I could have. I'll make a new post.

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Can instants be played after I decide not to block?
My friend has a green Infect deck. When he declares a creature to attack and I allow it to go through unblocked, he suddenly plays all these Instants that 'pump' the creature up, and because of Infect, it's an instant loss most of the time. We solved that issue (without really understanding the full rules) that it wouldn't make sense to pump his creature up for an instant win without allowing me to block, although recently, my friend told me that 'Instants' can be played 'anytime' so once I allow a creature to deal me damage, technically, he's allowed to play all those Instants.
I'm really confused about it all, and would like to get an answer once and for all for this.
Also, once he has stacked all the pumps for his creature and attacks me (after I initially let it pass to hit my life because I did not expect the pumps) am I allowed to play Holy Day?

Infect would have a really had time winning if it wasn't for post-block pumping :)

I think the best way to answer your question is to give a brief outline of the rules regarding the game steps, and timing of playing spells and abilities
Game Phases and Steps
In a nutshell, here are the phases and steps in a turn of a game of Magic.

Beginning (3 steps: Untap, Upkeep, Draw)
Precombat Main
Combat (5 steps: Beginning of Combat, Declare Attackers, Declare Blockers, Combat Damage, End of Combat)
Postcombat Main
Ending (2 steps: End Step, Cleanup Step)

At the end of each step (except untap and cleanup*), any abilities that trigger at the start of that step are put on the stack, and then the active player (whoever's turn it is) receives priority.
Priority means you can cast spells, activate abilities or play a land. (Keep in mind that casting non-instant spells, activating some abilities and playing lands can only be done if it's your turn, if it's a Main phase, and if the stack is empty.) If a player is done, they may pass priority. Then, the next player gets priority to play spells and activate abilities.
When all players pass priority, any spells on the stack resolve. After each spell or ability resolves the active player receives priority again. He may play new fast effects (instant spells or activate abilities.)
If the stack is empty and all players pass priority, the game moves to the next step or phase.
* — Players don't receive priority during the Untap or Cleanup Step, with one exception during the Cleanup Step. Check the comprehensive rules 514 for more info.
The Stack
The stack is a holding area for spells and abilities that have been cast or activated (including pumping a creature or playing a spell like Holy Day.) After a spell has been played or an ability activated, it is put on the stack.
Once everyone has passed priority, the last-played spell or ability on the stack resolves. It's like a stack of dishes or paper. You deal with the one on top first. After each spell or ability resolves, the active player receives priority again. When all players pass, the next spell on the stack resolves, and so on, until the stack is empty.
Conclusion
You always have a chance to respond to your opponent casting spells and activating abilities to pump his creature (ignoring Split Second.) And your opponent can choose to pump his creature during phase 1 & 2, but usually it is most advantageous to do it during the Declare Blockers step of the Combat phase, after blockers are declared.
I hope that makes sense. I've tried to boil it down "When can I play instants?" to the essentials and a minimum of caveats and exceptions. Magic has many card interactions and rules to deal with these nitty-gritty details; browse the comprehensive rules if you really want to get into those!

I'm going to say the same thing as the other answers, but more focused on your specific case.
As has been said elsewhere, here's what happens during combat:

Begin combat step

Both players get to play spells and abilities

Declare attackers step

The attacking player chooses which creatures are attacking. Once the choices are made, they are locked in.
Both players get to play spells and abilities

Declare blockers step

The defending player chooses which creatures are blocking. Once the choices are made, they are locked in; in particular, if you choose not to block a creature, you can't later go back and block it .
Both players get to play spells and abilities. This is where your infect-playing opponent will play his pump spells.

Combat damage step

Combat damage is dealt
Both players get to play spells and abilities

End of combat step

Both players get to play spells and abilities

When I say "Both players get to play spells and abilities," that's code for "each player gets priority" and all that other stuff that ghoppe explained. I'm not going to go into that., except to reiterate that after he plays a spell, you will also get a chance to play spells, and vice versa. The game doesn't move on to the next step until both of you decline to play anything.
So the bottom line is that yes, your opponent can play spells to pump up his creature after you block or decline to block. And you can play spells like Holy Day to prevent the damage those creatures would do, or whatever other spells you want to play.
Now you may be thinking that this is kind of unfair, because he can attack with a small creature, which you don't block because it doesn't seem threatening, and then he can pump it up to instantly kill you. But it's not. Once you see your opponent pull this trick once, you know about it, and next time, you can block his creature, even if it's small, because you know that if you don't ,he will be able to pump it up  and kill you. Consider this your introduction to the strategy of Magic: it's about learning to anticipate what your opponent could play before he does it. You can do this based on what you know to be in his deck, how much mana he has available, how many cards he has in hand, and any other information that might be relevant.
Actually, playing against an infect deck is one of the easier matchups to play, strategically speaking, because all you have to do is block everything whenever your opponent might be able to play a pump spell. Remember that infect creatures are small for their cost, so when you block, either your blocker will kill the infect creature, or your opponent will have to use a pump spell to save it.  After 3 or 4 blocks, your opponent will either be out of pump spells (in which case his creatures aren't threatening anymore) or out of creatures (in which case the pump spells are useless).

Short answer: Yes, he can cast those instants after you decide not to block. Yes, you can cast 'Holy Day' after he casts all those instants to prevent the damage.
Basically, combat happens in 5 steps:
1. begin of combat
2. declare attackers
3. declare blockers
4. resolve damage
5. end of combat
Players have a chance to cast instants and activate abilities at the end of each of those steps, including after he declares attackers and you declare blockers. After he casts instants you are also given a chance to casts instants.

I'm going to give you the simpler answer you are looking for: Yes.
Your opponent is allowed to pump up his creatures after you decline to block, resulting in you taking the damage, or you playing a spell or an ability to prevent the damage or kill that creature.
Let's say your opponent has a simple 1/1 and swings for 1; you don't block.  Because you do not block, he can now pump his creature up and swing at you for X.  You seeing this can now play a Holy Day, Lightning Bolt, Incinerate, etc. to prevent the damage or kill the creature. These spells are now on the stack, and because yours was the last spell played, it resolves first. He pumps his 1/1 up to a 4/4, and in response, you use Shock to kill it before it becomes a 4/4. Because you did not block during declare blockers phase, you can't block now, but you still have the opportunity to cast instants/activate abilities.

There may actually be a rules difference between 'declining to block' and 'declaring zero blockers'. Aside from that, I like the real-world example.

Yes, he can play those instants after you declined to block. That's one of the most useful things to do with instant spells, and is done a lot after blockers are announced. Keep in mind about the stacking: if he stacks an instant on top of yours, it may well counteract what you're trying to do.


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Spawning from special zombie cards inside buildings
In Zombicide, when spawning zombies inside buildings when a player opens a door, what do we do when we draw a "special card"?
By "special card" I mean "additional activation of zombies", "sewer spawn", etc.
For example:

During the player's turn, one of them opens a door.
In one room they draw an "additional activation of runners".

Can the runners be activated in the player's turn? Or do we discard this card and draw another? Or does nothing spawn in that room?

Yes, zombies of that type get an immediate activation. Do not discard that card and draw another, do whatever is on the card. Nothing will spawn in room/zone of the corresponding "special" card. This is covered in the first page of the FAQ

Q: When spawning the Zones of a building I just opened, what happens if I draw an extra activation or manhole card?
A: Always do exactly what the card says no matter when you draw it. If you draw an extra activation card, that Zombie type receives an extra activation immediately. If tou draw a manhole card, spawn Zombies in the manholes normally. in these cases, the building Zone for which the card was originally drawn receives no Zombies.

This is also repeated at the bottom of page 10 of the rule book, just above the so many zombies, so few miniatures sidebar.

There are two special cases: the “extra activation” cards and the “manhole” cards. In both cases, no Zombies appear on the designated Zone.


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How can I cheaply and easily create stackable tiles?
I'm building a prototype with stackable tiles in several different shapes. I 3D-printed some tiles that lock together nicely, but it is too expensive to 3D-print all the tiles I need to make multiple copies.
My solution so far is printing out the tiles on card stock, gluing to a bristol (i.e. presentation board) covering with a plastic sheet usually used to cover books. On the bottom I glue a layer of non slide rubber sheet to encourage pieces to stay in place.
I then cut the board into tiles with a utility knife and a straight edge.

Does anyone have better ways of making tiles that don't slide much?
I am making the game board the same way but I am having trouble getting the bubbles out from under the coating. Any tips?
Can a stack paper cutter be used to cut out the tiles which are 4 layers thick?

You could try cutting several layers of the bristol with a power saw (before gluing). I could imagine chop saw/band saw/circular saw working pretty well.

3D-print one and 3D-photocopy it multiple times! (Sorry, it's the only answer that poped out of my mind. I hope it made you smile despite the fact it wasn't helpful)

Best bet for multiple "3d" sets: 3-D Print off a master of each type, then use resin casting to make as many as you need. Or use a single type, and print circular labels that go inside a recess.

As for bubble removal - an insulin syringe. that microfine needle barely leaves a mark, and can suck half a cc of air out.
It's better, however, to not get bubbles in the first place... so, you set an edge past the edge of the meaningful area, the use a rolling pin or squeegee to press it flat from there over. I've also found it better to expose the lamination and put the paper onto it, than to place the laminate onto the paper.

You could use full sheet magnetic labels.  Print onto cardstock, adhere magnetic sheet to the back, cut out tiles.


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Software to search for MTG decks based on a list of cards
I haven't played MTG for a while, but I still own about 500 cards. Some of them were from pre-built decks, but now the cards are all randomized.
I have the full inventory (quantity and name) on a text file. Although I've seen a lot of programs that allow you to build and share decks, I'm looking for something that searches for a deck based on the cards you have (or on a list you provide).

Update: I may have misguided you with my explanation, so here it goes in different words. I want to know what decks are out there that I can build with the cards I have. Something like: here's the list of cards I possess; show me what decks exist that I can build with them, without needing to buy more cards.

Are you looking for the decklists of the pre-built decks? Or for general deckslists that use those cards?

Something like this, but for MTG, not Lego?

That's exactly what I am looking for!

So both official pre-built decks and famous tournament decks? Or do you want to include decks built by Jane Average player too?

@SevenSidedDie: Sky's the limit...

Inspired by this post I've managed to implement the requested feature in my program Mtgdb.Gui, it's free and opensource.
The screenshot below shows the list of decks filtered by a condition that you own 90% or more from the Main deck.

So to search the decks based on cards you have collected, you need to
Step 0. Import the decks to Mtgdb.Gui. It can be be done as easy as drag-n-dropping a bunch of files or folders into it. See Wiki for details.  I used Forge to quickly download ~5000 decks.
Step 1. Import your collection to Mtgdb.Gui. E.g. you can import from a plain-text file where each row is more or less like this:
2 Accomplished Automaton

You can also import your Magic The Gathering Online collection.
Step 2a. Sort the list of decks by percent of cards from Main deck you own in descending order, by clicking the corresponding field.
Step 2b. Alterternatively as in the screenshot above, you can filter the list of decks by using search input.
P.S. Let me stress it, I am the author of Mtgdb.Gui. It has to be perfectly clear, because the rules of this forum, as well as common human honesty, I believe, require people to be explicit when promoting their own product.

This looks very promising.  Thank you for your contribution to the MtG community!  I am a brewer at heart so tools like this are wonderful to me.  Shoebox is never updated and Superbrew has a very limited subset of decks to choose from.  Thanks!!

I Really appreciate you taking time to write some kind words, thanks!

Just tried out Mtgdb.gui, and it looks great! Could you please elaborate on how you downloaded all the decks with Forge?

First download net decks as in screenshot . Then find downloaded decks at C:\Users<username>\AppData\Roaming\Forge\decks\net\

A single downloadable file with all Forge net decks  as per 2018-10-04.

In addition to the aforementioned sites, Star City Games' deck database also has a number of decklists from various formats, searchable both by individual cards and combinations of cards.
With that said, I think the thrust of the question is somewhat misguided; if the goal is to be competitive then you'll have much more luck by making strategic trades and the occasional purchase rather than building to the needs of your current collection.  If the intent is somewhat more casual, then I think there's an argument to be made that much of the enjoyment comes out of building your own and exploring (or discovering!) cards and interactions that you hadn't paid close attention to before.  If all you want to do is play the game (as opposed to the deckbuilding 'game'), you're probably better off either with preconstructed product or with a limited format (draft or, if you really want to stick with your present collection, a homemade cube built from the materials 'at hand' - see What Is A Cube? on cubedrafting.com for an introduction to the subject).

If you're looking for competitive decklists, MtgTop8 has a nice deck database that you can query by card name (even several cards at a time).
On the other hand, if you want a place where you can build your decklists and share them, TappedOut is a pretty popular site. They don't feature a "card name" field in their search engine, but they do look into card names for matches.
If you're looking for the original pre-built decklists, this wikipedia page compiles all the links to the official Wizards of the Coast site.

Shoebox is almost what you want. It's new, so  at the moment you can only compare your collection to top decks on TCGplayer.com between certain dates. There's also MTG Goldfish's SuperBrew feature, which wasn't worth it for my small collection either. Cube it is!

https://www.mtggoldfish.com/superbrew
that's exactly what he is looking for but you do need a premium accout

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_Magic:_The_Gathering_theme_decks
This is a list of pre-build decks if you know what set there from you should be able to find your deck.

Thank you. Not exactly what I was looking for, but useful nonetheless.

I doubt the thing you looking for exists, at least not for the standard mtg decks.

MTGA Assistant provides that kind of functionality, showing decks that are being used and winning in the current meta, and how many cards you are missing from that deck, if any. It is focused on using your digital collection in Arena rather than your physical card collection. The developers of that app also run Aetherhub, which does let you add your physical collection - I am not sure if they have the same deck building functionality built in as they do for the MTGA app, but it might be worth checking out if you want something like that for physical cards.

Deckcheck has a nice search function if you want to do it yourself.  If you just want to play and don't enjoy the deck building all that much (which probably is mine and my friends favorite part) I think the best result will come from help of others.

Ask your friend who likes deck building.
Make it a challenge at a MtG forum.
Ask for help at a forum.
Use it as a cube.

But I strongly suggest that you have a go at it yourself. Maybe you'll enjoy it :)

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Is there a free site to play Yu-Gi-Oh?
Anything fairly priced will also work. Any suggestions?

There's an app that is suitable: Yugioh Duel generation. NOTE that it's an APP

http://www.duelingnetwork.com/
I used to hit problems with the intro and needed to block the music file they use (it's not a part of the flash file for some weird reason), but it works well for what it does.

This site is no longer active it has been removed for legal reasons

http://www.duelingbook.com/ is a very similar replacement.

I really enjoy using : http://ygopro.org/
Its really well made and constantly updating

DevPro is also really good. It's actually better since it emulates the rules for you. Can't link unfortunately, but it should be fairly easy to find.

https://duelingnexus.com/
This site is free to use (for a limited time) and you can make your own deck to play online with other people


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What happens with continous trap/spell cards when they get negated by Light and Darkness Dragon?
I'm pretty sure they would get destroyed, but people have argued that they stay on the field negated, since the card does not explicitly state "the card gets destroyed and sent to the graveyard."
In my defense I state that it makes no sense that a card never be activated (since LaDD prevents activations) and still remain face up on the field.
They respond that since it never got activated it gets set again, and therefore they think they can get away with activating it every turn to weaken my LaDD.
I'm looking for hard evidence that I can show these kids the next time we have this comes up.

These rulings come from yugioh.wikia.com, and note:

These TCG rulings were issued by Upper Deck Entertainment and have since been deemed unofficial by Konami.[18] They were previously considered official and can still be correct, as long as they follow the official gameplay rules, or unless Konami has issued a ruling that says otherwise. References: [19][20][21][22][23][24][25][26]

The relevant rules are:

“Light and Darkness Dragon” cannot negate the activation of the Ignition-like effect of Continuous Spell or Trap Cards (“Ultimate Offering”, etc.) or Field Spell Cards (“Ancient City - Rainbow Ruins”, etc.). “Light and Darkness Dragon's” second effect activates when a Spell or Trap Card is first activated (placed face-up onto the field or flipped face-up).17
When “Light and Darkness Dragon” negates the activation of a Continuous Spell or Trap Card, the Continuous Spell or Trap Card is sent to the Graveyard. When “Light and Darkness Dragon” negates the activation of “Swords of Revealing Light”, the “Swords of Revealing Light” is sent to the Graveyard.17


text:
Do I lose two levels just for choosing to fight King Tut?
I am really new to Munchkin and I had a question about a card.
The King Tut card says "Will not pursue anyone of Level 3 or below. Higher-Leveled characters lose 2 levels, even if they escape."
Does this mean that as soon as combat starts with King Tut the player loses 2 levels?  What if someone joins in the fight, do they lose 2 levels as well?  And what if someone plays a card that cancels the combat (for example switches the monster)?

No, the loss of 2 levels is part of the bad stuff that happens when you normally fail to escape, or since the card specifically states it, "even if they escape." From the World if Munchkin FAQ,

Q. King Tut and the Wight Brothers say "Characters of higher Levels [than 3] lose 2 levels, even if they escape." Does that mean you lose two levels even if you defeat those monsters?
A. No. But if you cannot defeat them, then you must try to run away, and you'll lose the 2 levels even if you do escape. If they catch you, of course, you do suffer the Bad Stuff from those Monsters. (But you don't lose the two levels twice!)

That is confusing... They should label it "Running Away:" then like they do the Bad Stuff.
Thanks for the link to the FAQ with the official rule on the card.


text:
Can Slifer be summoned using Red-Eyes Darkness Metal Dragon's effect?
I'm running the first gen print of Slifer. Before I get asked about it, no I don't do tourneys or follow the modern card rulings. I stopped playing yu-gi-oh back in 2007 so I use the same limited rules that we had back then. I don't think we had any banned cards back in 2007. I could be wrong.
Anyway, that being said, I usually only play against a friend of mine. We both decided to start playing again about a month ago. I'm running a dragon deck (yes, using all of the cards specially including the newer ones as you can tell by my use of Red-Eyes Darkness) and I came across this dilemma. Am I allowed to summon Slifer using Red-Eyes' effect?
Furthermore, upon re-reading Slifer's effect it states that it is also treated as a dragon. My question is, does this only become true when it's on the field? Would the graveyard count as well?

Have you got a link to the version of the card that states that Slifer is treated as a Dragon?  All the Slifers I can locate so far appear to be of the Divine-Beast type, without mention of also being treated as a Dragon...

@thesunneversets here you go :)
Original Slifer you'll find it about halfway down the page.

Okay, I think I've worked out what's going on here.  The link to Original Slifer that you kindly provided for me shows the original, illegal version of the card.  There is a second link, from that page, to the legal Slifer version.  You will see that the second Slifer does not have any ruling declaring the card to be of Dragon Type.
Why does the illegal Slifer have a ruling indicating that it is a dragon?  Well, it took a little bit of detective work but I quote from that page:

This card's written lore in the anime and manga was never shown fully
  or directly; the lore listed here is a reconstruction based on how it
  was used and may not be accurate or complete.

What is this talking about?  Well, at some point in the anime an interaction between Slifer and other "cards" occurred that would not have been able to happen if Slifer had not been of Dragon type (I believe I actually found what this was earlier today, but have lost it again: I'll edit it in if I track it down).  Seemingly, then, in the anime at least Slifer is of "Divine-Dragon" type.
In tournaments I would guess that Slifer is categorically only a Divine-Beast, and not a dragon, and does not combo with Red-Eyes Darkness Metal Dragon.  You say you're not especially interested in tournament restrictions and the latest rulings though - so if you wanted to make a house rule that yes, of course "Slifer the Sky Dragon" is a dragon, then there's nothing stopping you.  That interpretation was good enough for the anime so there's no reason it shouldn't be good enough for you.  If you go down that route I would treat Slifer as having "Divine-Dragon" on its type line for all purposes, so it would still be a Dragon in the graveyard too.  Hope that helps!

Regardless of thesunneversets observations that a legal version of the card doesn't contain the Original versions "treat this as a Dragon-Type Monster", that shouldn't matter in this situation. The rule book splits Effect Monsters into five categories, one of which is Continuous Effect:

This effect is active while the Effect Monster Card is face-up on the field. The effect starts when the face-up monster appears on the field, and ends once that monster is gone or is no longer faceup; there is no trigger for its activation. These monsters are most useful if you have a strategy to protect them while they are on the field.

Once the card is in he graveyard, it's rules text doesn't apply. Unless the card specifically says otherwise like Zombie World, Gemini Monster, etc.

The rules text doesn't apply.  The card type still applies in the graveyard.  Otherwise it's pretty meaningless that Red-Eyes states that "you can summon a Dragon-type monster from your Graveyard", if there's no such thing as Dragon-type monsters once the cards are in the Graveyard.

Though yeah, I guess I agree with you that a card with "treat this as a Dragon-Type Monster" in the rules text would be problematic.  Does such a card exist?  I've still only seen rulings that Slifer counts as a Dragon, rather than card text saying so, though I'm prepared to believe there are a bewildering number of different printings of this card :)

A Google image search found me an example copy with the text.

If you've found the text on a specific card, you should link it from your answer.


text:
Can I use Naturalize to "counter" an activated ability?
I have a question regarding activated abilities.
My opponent has an Isochron Scepter (untapped). He wants to play the ability and taps it.
Is it possible to destroy the Isochron Scepter with Naturalize beforehand? So if I play Naturalize, is he able to cast the spell imprinted in the Scepter? Or is the Scepter destroyed before the ability triggers?
And if it would be destroyed before the ability triggers, is it then possible to "replay" the Isochron Scepter ability in response again?

There are no triggers involved in this scenario.

I think @thesunneversets has answered this question well, but we should clarify terminology used in your question. Activated abilities are put on the stack. They do not trigger, they resolve. Triggered abilities have a condition that begins with the word "when," "whenever," or "at." They have an associated effect which is put on the stack when the condition is met. After it is put on the stack it also resolves.

Technically, If the activated ability targets a single artifact or enchantment, and you use naturalize to destroy the target, than yes, it will counter the ability

On the other hand, If your opponent uses an Isochron Scepter with Giant Growth imprinted on it targeting his Wurmcoil engine, than using Naturalize on the target: Wurmcoil engine actually will counter the ability

Once the ability is put on the stack, destroying the Isochron Scepter in response will not take that ability back off the stack.  First the Naturalize will resolve, destroying the Scepter; then, next the Scepter's ability will resolve and you can copy the imprinted instant card (using the last-known-information rule).
I'm not quite sure what you mean about "replaying the Scepter's ability in response" - the Scepter has been tapped in order to play its ability.  Of course, you can use a spell or effect to untap the Scepter in response to the Naturalize, and pay 2 to pay its ability again.  In which case the Scepter's ability would resolve twice, once before Naturalize resolves and destroys the artifact, and once afterwards.  If this is what you're asking?
This para from the Comprehensive Rules may help to understand the finer points of destroying a permanent while its ability is on the stack:

112.7a Once activated or triggered, an ability exists on the stack independently of its source. Destruction or removal of the source
  after that time won't affect the ability. Note that some abilities
  cause a source to do something (for example, "Prodigal Pyromancer
  deals 1 damage to target creature or player") rather than the ability
  doing anything directly. In these cases, any activated or triggered
  ability that references information about the source because the
  effect needs to be divided checks that information when the ability is
  put onto the stack. Otherwise, it will check that information when it
  resolves. In both instances, if the source is no longer in the zone
  it's expected to be in at that time, its last known information is
  used. The source can still perform the action even though it no longer
  exists.

Note that if you use Pull from Eternity to target the card exiled by the Scepter in response to the Scepter's ability, there will no longer be a card to copy in the exile zone when the ability resolves. Of course, there are also several spells that counter activated abilities — or you could just counter the copied spell.


text:
Is the ability cost of the commander part of the color identity?
Consider the card Rhys the Exiled. Are you allowed to play black (and green) cards in your deck with this commander?
Or are you only allowed to play cards that are the same color as the commander's cost? If so, would this then make it impossible to use his ability?

The colour identity of Rhys the Exiled is Green and Black.
As per the Commander colour identity rules:

A card's colour identity is its colour plus the colour of any mana symbols in the card's rules text.

The colour doesn't have to be just in the casting cost (which determines the card's colour), any mana symbol cost in the rules text counts towards the card's colour identity.
See also Comprehensive Rule 903.4:

903.4. The Commander variant uses color identity to determine what cards can be in a deck with a certain commander. The color identity of a card is the color or colors of any mana symbols in that card's mana cost or rules text, plus any colors defined by its characteristic-defining abilities (see rule 604.3) or color indicator (see rule 204).
Example: Bosh, Iron Golem is a legendary artifact creature with mana cost {8} and the ability "{3}{R}, Sacrifice an artifact: Bosh, Iron Golem deals damage equal to the sacrificed artifact's converted mana cost to target creature or player." Bosh's color identity is red.

Side note: The color indicator and the effects of characteristic changing abilities (e.g. Ghostfire) also determine the color.


text:
Maxxing out the trader track in Stone Age: Style is the Goal
While playing a game of Stone Age with the Style is the Goal expansion, we had a player achieve ten traders on the trader track. Later in the game, she purchased a card which gave a +1 on the trader track. It wasn't clear to us whether she should receive the usual two decoration even though she couldn't move her counter on the track itself.
We settled on a house rule that yes, you could indeed take two decorations even if you can't advance any further on the trader track. This seemed to me like a reasonable decision as you are purchasing more traders, which would bring in decorations, even though the track itself maxes out at ten.
Has anyone else run up against this question and come to a resolution? I'd love to hear it if so, as I really enjoy playing Stone Age! Thanks everybody.

There is actually a difference between the wording of the English and German rules, that I think is significant.  The English rules say:

(Each time the player moves his marker forward  on the trader track,
  regardless of how far, he takes 2 decorations.)

In the German, by contrast:

(Jedes Mal, wenn der Spieler auf der Händlerleiste vorrückt, unabhängig
  ob 1 oder 2 Felder, erhält er 2 Schmuck.)

To roughly translate that, and highlight the difference: "Each time that the player on the trader track advances, regardless of whether it is 1 or 2 spaces, he takes 2 decorations."
I think it's a lot clearer from that wording that getting the decorations is specifically linked to advancing along the track, and that "advancing 0 spaces" was not meant to count as advancing.  As such, I'd come to the opposite conclusion to user1873's answer, and assume that the designer only meant you to be able to get decorations while making real progress along the trader track, and not to be able to milk it for more decorations after having maxed it out.

Aha! That wording really does change how I see the rule. I appreciate you translating that here.

There is no official clarification to my knowledge, so at least you are not alone in this matter. A strict reading of the rule book, would lead me to the same conclusion you came to (emphasis mine).

The player moves his marker on the trader track 2 spaces forward (and takes back his two figures). He also immediately takes two decorations. (Each time the player moves his marker forward on the trader track, regardless of how far, he takes two decorations.)

This all hinges on whether moving zero spaces is advancing your marker. I would contend that the rule would be to do as much as possible. The second statement of taking 2 decorations is independent of advancing your marker, so if you are at the top of the track you don't move the marker (still trading at 1:2), because you cannot, but you still collect decorations which you are able to do.
No FAQ exists, and the designer's website didn't appear to address the question. It did have a German copy of the rules, so anyone fluent in German who wishes to post a question to the designer or who can determine if the German rules are clearer on this matter are welcome to try.

I think the biggest issue here, is that you don't get two Jewelry for moving on the track anytime, only when you take the Merchant action.
The rules for that specific card are clear.  You move 1 space on the track.  It says nothing about getting jewelry.  So, to give the same answer via a different route.  Nothing is gained.


text:
How do Snapcaster Mage and Cipher cards interact?
Let's say I cast a card with Cipher from my graveyard with the help of Flashback (provided by Snapcaster Mage). Will I be encoding it on a creature instead of exiling it from the effect of Flashback?

Yes. Cipher will continue to work as normal.

Cipher exiles the card it encodes.

Then you may exile this spell card encoded on a creature you control. Whenever that creature deals combat damage to a player, its controller may cast a copy of the encoded card without paying its mana cost.

The relevant part of Flashback is the following replacement effect:

If the flashback cost was paid, exile this card instead of putting it anywhere else any time it would leave the stack.

Flashback does absolutely nothing if you exile a card using Cipher because the card is not put "anywhere [other than exile]" when it leaves the stack. Cipher will continue to work as normal.
If you chose not to encode the card, Flashback will cause it to be exiled instead of going to the graveyard.

Right on. Even though I bet most people will 'tuck' the spell card to show it's ciphered, technically the spell card is in the graveyard or exile zone as appropriate. Just because we place the card on the battlefield as an easy reminder, the game considers the card to be in exile.


text:
MTG Gatecrash Simic Strategies for a Prerelease event
I am going to be playing this weekend at the prerelease of Gatecrash, with the chosen guild of Simic. Now the core strategy of Simic is to grow relentlessly, using the Evolve mechanic (whenever a creature enters the battlefield under your control, if that creature has greater power or toughness than this creature, put a +1/+1 counter on this creature).
There are a couple of problems with this guild type:

Its power level is inconsistent.
Not many creatures in green and blue that have high toughness and power to make it evolve.

To mitigate the issues of running Simic I'm considering splashing red for Gruul might be the most optimum choice.
What other problems, strategy, or card combos should I watch out for when playing Simic?

I don't see how you can see green doesn't have high toughness or power... Green has the most and biggest creatures of any color. In terms of 4+ pow or tgh, breakdown is blue and black with 11, white at 12, red with 14, and green with 15. Most of red's come from gruul, just as most of blue's come from simic. In terms of mono color, U and W are 5, B is 4, R is 6 and G is 7. Green IS the big creature color. So you slop down blue evolvers, and pump them up with cheap green fatties. Problem solved.

Since you say 'high toughness and power', I want to point out something that you may not have noticed: Evolve triggers off of the creature entering play having either a higher toughness or a higher power than the evolving creature.  And as it happens, there are a number of creatures with either high power or high toughness for triggering evolve (for instance, even just a couple of Crocanura will turn your Cloudfin Raptor into a 2/3 flyer).

In regards to GTC Simic in general, here's this humble magic players breakdown of the playables. The only cards included here are commons since you really can't ever rely on seeing even uncommons. There's about 80 uncommon cards a set, and you're going to see a total of 18. So maybe three or four of those will be simic, and maybe one of those will be playable. If they are great, but let's focus on the bread (no pun intended) and butter of your guild first.
If a card doesn't appear in this list, it's because I personally didn't think it would be a good fit for the "grow 'em" strategy, which is undoubtedly what simic will be playing. That doesn't necessarily mean it's bad (although it probably means I think it's bad in general), and I welcome challenges to anything present in or absent from the list. I am comfortable making the list because it's 1) objective based on certain criteria, 2) limited (only 34 cards of the 259 are eligible for the list) and 3) comprehensive (it's not just a list but the reasons why are included so someone could apply the same sorts of logic to other cards).
Green playables:
Creatures:

Crocanura - 3 toughness reach is decent - flying is huge in limited. Evolving will make it hit higher power quickly.
Crowned Ceratok - 4 power trample is great. Giving all your evolve trample is great too. Three toughness makes it weaker to red aggro cards like a 3/1 or 3/2, but it's still a great card.
Disciple of the Old Ways - He's a bear, which is usually playable anyway. His bonus is great if you're splashing red.
Greenside Watcher - If you have 3 or more gates, he's worth playing.
Ivy Lane Denizen - Every green guy gets a +1/+1 counter. Note that this +1/+1 counter happens in parallel with evolve, which is excellent!
Slaughterhorn - A 3/2 for 3 is probably playable anyway, but having bloodrush is simple excellent.
Spire Tracer - He's not a flier, but he acts like one. Green rarely gets fliers, so this is excellent news. Expect him to be targets of +1/+1 counters and bloodrushes.
Wasteland Viper - A 1/2 for 1 is rather lame considering last set gave us Dryad Militant (although that was uncommon). The bloodrush component of this is still excellent.

Spells:

Forced Adaptation - You risk being 2-for-1ed with this, but this will make your creature scale well with your turns. Combos well with Ceratok.
Pit Fight (R/G hybrid) - Cheap instant-speed removal at common. Between evolve, big green creatures, and Wasteland Viper, you've got a lot of viable fighters in your colors.
Verdant Haven - Everyone loves acceleration, but green traditionally has the best.

Blue Playables:
Creatures:

Cloudfin Raptor - will probably swing for 1 on turn 2 as you'd expect with a typical flier.
Keymaster Rogue - This guy is great for triggering those +1/+1 counters all over the place.
Metropolis Sprite - he has the +1/-1 ability that Frostborn Wierd had in RTR, and that proved to be very effective. Putting it on only one color isn't as good, and having only two toughness is also not as good, but if you have ways to get counters on blue creatures, this is a good place for it. Otherwise leave this out of the game.
Leyline Phantom - good for triggering +1/+1 abilites, although it's late in the game, simic should be able to drag the game out to make him worth it. He's kind of like an expensive keymaster rogue.

Spells:

Hands of Binding - probably the best blue spell at common, this is a must play if you have good fliers or other evasion.
Last Thoughts - this is pretty expensive if you don't get a lot of uses out of the cipher component, but if it does work out for you it's excellent. If your opponent has a lot of removal, sideboard this out.
Spell Rupture - If you have the big green fatties of old, this is effectively a Cancel for 1U isntead of 1UU. That's a great thing.
Way of the Thief - Maro promised gates would mean more in this expansion than in RTR. The only real use of gate in RTR before was on a fairly crappy defender in black that really didn't fit the profile. This on the otherhand is a pretty good fit. +2/+2 and unblockable is good, but doing it for 4 is pretty expensive. On the other hand, if the unblockable creature has a couple ciphers on him, well now you're going to win the game. Congrats.

Simic Playables:
Creatures:

Drakewing Krasis - he's a 3/1 flample - since he's still green he combos well with Ivy Lane Denizen.
Shambleshark - 2/1 flash evolve for 2 - requires exactly UG so could be tough to drop on turn 2. But with flash, you can leave the mana open and your opponent may think he's safer for a turn longer than he really is. Great potential here.

Spells:

Bioshift - if someone kills your creature with a bunch of +1/+1 counters (see Forced Adaptation) you can save them quickly.

"Exactly UG" on turn 2 isn't actually a challenge for a two-color (or two-color-plus-splash) deck: how likely are you to keep a hand that doesn't have at least one land of each of your deck's main colors in the first place?

If you have 3 green spells, 3 forests, and 1 UG spell, very likely.

In my experience, those kinds of hands lead to you ending up dead with a hand full of unplayables more often than not.

@AlexP Unfortunately, you can't always mulligan to hands with all your colors available.  If I had three forests, three purely green (creature) spells and one GU spell, I'd keep that in a heartbeat; it's almost certainly better than a random 6 are going to be.

I have somewhat different evaluations than corsiKa does, so I feel like I should run down the list myself.  To my mind Simic will play very much as classic blue/green tempo decks like the old Madness decks did, with undercosted midrange creatures (rather than weenies per se) and especially at the prerelease, generous amounts of card draw (as facilitated by Fathom Seer).  Here are the cards I feel are particularly noteworthy, either because I think they're excellent or disagree with corsiKa:
Creatures:
Adaptive Snapjaw: don't sell this one short.  6/2 is awkward but means it'll trigger everyone else's evolve... but if you can get it to 8/4 this will almost always be a 2-for-1.  I'm not sure what to make of it yet, but I'm curious.  Also excellent, of course, for getting the 4th +1/+1 counter on your Cloudfin Raptor.
Clinging Anemones: 4 toughness means that this is a surprisingly effective Evolve enabler and not just as an evolve guy itself; it's great for Snapjaw of course, but especially for...
Cloudfin Raptor: one of the best common creatures in the set.  A terrible late draw and surprisingly awkward in multiples, but any time you get to pay one mana for what can easily be a 3/4 flyer in the midgame you have to consider it a bargain.
Drakewing Krasis: awkward against opposing Crocanuras, of course, but 3-power flyers for 3 are always strong picks.  This is another guy I'll take and play very highly; I expect a lot of games to end via these guys coming through the air while a Crocanura holds the ground.  Handy for being a high-power guy in a world of high-toughness, low-power evolve guys.
Forced Adaptation: unlike corsiKa, I'll be sad if this ever makes my deck; not only is the 2-for-1 potential real, but it's almost never going to be any faster than just playing out another guy.  Maybe if there were dense ground stalls (think Selesnya-on-Selesnya) this would be a better card, but with the sheer volumes of evasion (and pseudo-evasion like Extort), this really doesn't feel like a ground-stall set to me.  My first guess is honestly something closer to Zendikar than to RTR.
Frilled Oculus: don't sell this short.  At first I thought it was 1G for +2/-2 and I might still play it occasionally then.  As a 2-mana 1/3 that always has the potential to go 3/5, it's a surprisingly good attacker and will do an excellent job of holding the ground.
Ivy Lane Denizen: It's hard to tell whether this is better with Fathom Seer or with Drakewing Krasis, but either way it's pure value.  Absurdly good, and only its stats keep it from being an easy first-pick; at 3/3 I'd be windmilling him out of most packs.  Note, as I think corsiKa missed, that this can put the counter anywhere, not just on the guy coming into play.  It also doesn't work quite as well with evolve as you'd think, but that's a more complicated issue and I'll come back to it later.
Keymaster Rogue: the cost on this is actually surprisingly awkward when you only have Evolve guys to return (you never really want to curve, say, Cloudfin into Crocanura into Rogue), but a 3-power unblockable guy at 4 is always going to be viable, and the removal is lighter than normal this set.  Another great target for Ivy Lane Denizen's counters.
Metropolis Sprite: Unfortunately, this is no Frostburn Weird any way you slice it.  A 1/2 flyer for 2 isn't playable straight up, and having to burn the mana to make it a 2/1 is a pain in a color-pair that looks like it ideally wants to curve 1->2->3->4 most games.  I might play this but I'll never be that happy to.
Scab-Clan Charger: The Bloodrush ability is unexciting but highly useful (and will push your flyers past spiders very well), but a 4-mana 2/4 is actually exactly what the deck wants to hold the ground and put another counter (or maybe two, with Denizen in play!) on a Cloudfin in the process.
Shambleshark: Fish Crab!
Slaughterhorn: see Scab-Clan Charger, but I actually think that's a better creature than this for the Simic deck, and sometimes even a better spell (though spending 1G instead of G on it is kind of awkward).
Spire Tracer: I suspect this will be okay, but probably the worst of the evasive options available.  Certainly he's good with Denizen or Burst or counter-shifting, but so is every other flyer or flyer-like creature, and the others are all better on their own.
Spells:
Burst of Strength: +1/+1 means it's not the best of combat tricks, but one mana is still fine, and untapping a guy means that your opponents will have to respect the ambush potential.
Pit Fight: yay removal.  As corsiKa notes, the high-toughness evolve guys (Croc keeps coming up, doesn't he?) make this really nice.
Verdant Haven: IMHO this isn't as good as it looks.  Going from 3 to 5 isn't that good in a deck that has several good plays on three mana, several on four, and very few on 5.  The color fixing is really nice, of course, but I actually think this is much better for Gruul than Simic.
Notable uncommons, either good or bad:
Elusive Krasis: I have a feeling he's not going to be quite as good as he looks.  The problem is that the natural Simic 'evasive guys plus ground-holders' strategy wants a lot of high-toughness, low-power guys to hold the ground... who are exactly the ones that don't trigger Krasis's evolve.  It'll be easy to get a counter onto him and two should be common, but a 2/6 unblockable creature is fine but nothing-exciting because the extra toughness just doesn't matter much.
Hindervines: Hopefully, this will be a blowout; realistically, it's probably something like Safe Passage: occasionally blows out a combat step but surprisingly often underperforms.
Nimbus Swimmer: I expect X to be 3 or 4 most of the time.  At 1 or 2 it's just not a great mana investment, and having 7 mana or more won't happen most games... though getting a dragon or bigger is always worthwhile.  Maybe the best argument for mana acceleration.
Sapphire Drake: It's just a shame that so many games will just be over as soon as this guy gets cast.  'Evolve my two Crocanura, jump them, swing for eight in the air?'
Simic Fluxmage: This actually feels like a trap to me.  Having this available means opponents will seldom have good blocks or attacks, but having to spend mana on it really stunts your development.
Urban Evolution: You really don't need me to tell you why 'draw three cards' is good, right?
Wasteland Viper: Weirdly awkward; the combination of higher toughness and deathtouch is really what you want on a blocker, not an attacker.
Ivy Lane Denizen and Evolve:
The gotcha I mentioned above is that even if you do put your Denizen's +1/+1 counter on a creature coming into play, that counter will never count towards evolving something else; for instance, if you have an unevolved Crocanura (1/3) and an Ivy Lane Denizen in play and then play a new Crocanura (1/3), you can put the +1/+1 counter from the Denizen on the new Crocanura but the 2/4 Croc won't let you evolve your 1/3 one (i.e., you can't end up with two 2/4 Crocs).  The reason for this is twofold: (a) Ivy League Denizen's ability is a triggered ability, so it doesn't go on the stack until the creature is in play (the creature enters play as its 'normal' self, not with any +1/+1 counters), and (b) even if you stack the triggers so that Evolve goes on the stack first and resolves last, the condition for evolve (that either power or toughness is higher) is checked when you try to put the triggered ability on the stack as well as when it resolves - and if the condition is never met, the ability never triggers.  (this is, roughly, rule 603.2 in the Comprehensive Rules.)

Frilled Oculus is srs bsns. It's a better Frostburn Weird.

If I could stick two bounties onto this, I would. I really like your answer.

@AlexP Thank you!  It's much appreciated. I just had the misfortune of being late to the party. :-)

Oh, hey, turns out I can!

Leyline Phantom looks like a good Simic roleplayer at common.
4U for a 5/5, return it to its owners hand if it deals combat damage.
The supposed drawback is actually an advantage on a card that really says "when this comes into play, evolve all your creatures", and may even do that job twice (or force your opponent to do some chump blocking they wouldn't otherwise).

The really great part about the Phantom "drawback" is there aren't many creature slots on the high end of your mana curve (maybe 4-5 at most). Having a 5/5 that's re-castable will help those later drawn low-end evolve creatures become real threats.

I wouldn't pre-determine which guilds I would be playing at this point if I were you, even if you already know that you're getting a simic pack.
for all you know, you can open nothing but bad simic cards in your guild pack, yet open all the boros bombs in your other 5 regular booster packs.
And if you do go simic, you might get the good boros cards, or you might also get the good dimir cards to supplement your third color.
I'd also advise against worrying too much about what your "weaknesses" are.  Just make sure you have good threats and/or answers.  Think about whether you'll be able to keep pressure on your opponent, killing him quick or potentially forcing him into bad trades, or whether you'll need to be able to win a war of attrition.
remember bread
B – Bombs
R – Removal
E – Efficient Spells  (or evasion, depending on who you talk to)
A – Aggro
D – Dregs

In this case I think the E in BREAD depends on what you're playing.  Simic needs efficient creature growth (where Dimir wants Evasion above all things).

From today's Latest Developments, which discusses the whole guild pack deal: "I can't guarantee that you will open five other rares to go with the guild-aligned one in your Prerelease kit, but no matter what guild you choose, your guild pack should give you the resources to play that guild and a strong enough pool to have a good time."

Good interactions posted so far. Here's a couple Cipher cards that make me giddy when I think about interaction with evolve.
Voidwalk – Exile a fatty. He makes your guys bigger for free.
Stolen Identity – If copying a big obvious fatty isn't available yet, make a small evolve creature that will become a real threat later.
Last Thoughts – Card advantage helps evolve. Draw more creatures.
As I mentioned in a comment to another answer, one trick with evolve will be cheating the mana curve. You need fatties to trigger evolve, but there's not much room in the deck.
One way to cheat is by playing creatures like Leyline Phantom and Keymaster Rogue that allow you to cast those large power/toughness creatures multiple times.
Another way to cheat is to play mid-range cards like Scab-Clan Charger and Slaughterhorn on the low end of the curve, casting them with Bloodrush to apply pressure if you are fully evolved or can't spare the mana.
PS. Sometime, somewhere, I am going to cast Shambleshark in response to an opponent's ciphered Last Thoughts. Then I shall smile.
PPS. Burning-Tree Emissary has potential for broken early plays.


text:
What are the names for Magic's different colour combinations?
For example, Esper refers to decks made up of White, Blue and Black cards.
What are the names of the other colour combinations? In particular, how do we refer to a Red-White-Black deck?

Thank you so much for asking this. I'm just now getting back into Magic, and seeing like "Bant X" and "Temur Y" without any cards with those names in the list was driving me nuts. And it was surprisingly hard to find the answer. Very much "tribal knowledge".

One color
In the most common environments, decks with a single color are not competitive in tournaments (due to the fact that you're settling for the top ten cohesive cards in a color instead of two sets of the top five in two colors. The difference in power level between the top 1-5 and the top 6-10 can be massive and game deciding. The other colors also make up for each others weaknesses). But they do exist, especially in older formats where consistency is required to win in a couple of turns and where you have such a large pool of powerful cards to pick from, and are then referred to as "Mono X". For completeness sake, mono color tribes have been included here even though they are unlikely to be labeled as such.

 Mono white, Ardenvale (kingdom on Eldraine), Auriok (human tribe on Mirrodin)
 Mono blue, Vantress (kingdom on Eldraine), Neurok (human tribe on Mirrodin)
 Mono black, Locthwain (kingdom on Eldraine), Moriok (human tribe on Mirrodin)
 Mono red, Embereth (kingdom on Eldraine), Vulshok (human tribe on Mirrodin)
 Mono green, Garenbrig (kingdom on Eldraine), Sylvok (human tribe on Mirrodin)

Two colors
They are usually referred with the names of the guilds of Ravnica. Since the guilds were released (and especially now that we've returned) the color pairs have become common names for duo-color decks. Both allied and enemy color pairs are common to see, although allied more so (due to higher deck cohesion).
Allied colors

 White + Blue = Azorius (guild on Ravnica), Ojutai (Dragonlord on Tarkir)
 Blue + Black = Dimir (guild on Ravnica), Silumgar (Dragonlord on Tarkir)
 Black + Red = Rakdos (guild on Ravnica), Kolaghan (Dragonlord on Tarkir)
 Red + Green = Gruul (guild on Ravnica), Atarka (Dragonlord on Tarkir)
 Green + White = Selesnya (guild on Ravnica), Dromoka (Dragonlord on Tarkir)

Enemy colors

 White + Black = Orzhov (guild on Ravnica), Silverquill (College on Strixhaven)
 Black + Green = Golgari (guild on Ravnica), Witherbloom (College on Strixhaven)
 Green + Blue = Simic (guild on Ravnica), Quandrix (College on Strixhaven)
 Blue + Red = Izzet (Guild on Ravnica), Prismari (College on Strixhaven)
 Red + White = Boros (guild on Ravnica), Lorehold (College on Strixhaven)

Three colors
The first of these are the shards of Alara. They jive well because they give two sets of allied colors each. The less commonly used are the wedges, which involve two enemy color combinations: they're derived from the dragons of Planar Chaos, the volver cycle from Apocalypse, five clans from Khans of Tarkir, or more recently the triomes of Ikoria. Having only one allied color pair (the two enemies of a single color will be allied) limits deck cohesion, making their use infrequent, although this obviously varies as the meta changes.
Note that if one of the colours is not particularly present in the deck, for example there's only a single card of a given color, you may see a two color name with a third listed as a "splash."
Allied colors

 Green + White + Blue = Bant (shard of Alara), Brokers (New-Capenna's crime family)
 White + Blue + Black = Esper (shard of Alara), Obscura (New-Capenna's crime family)
 Blue + Black + Red = Grixis (shard of Alara), Maestros (New-Capenna's crime family)
 Red + Green + Black = Jund (shard of Alara), Riveteers (New-Capenna's crime family)
 Red + Green + White = Naya (shard of Alara), Cabaretti (New-Capenna's crime family)

Enemy colors

 Red + white + black = Mardu (clan on Tarkir), Savai (Ikoria triome), Oros (dragon from Planar Chaos) or Dega (from Degavolver)
 Green + blue + red = Temur (clan on Tarkir), Ketria (Ikoria triome), Intet (dragon from Planar Chaos) or Ceta (from Cetavolver)
 White + black + green = Abzan (clan on Tarkir), Indatha (Ikoria triome), Teneb (dragon from Planar Chaos) Necra (from Necravolver), Junk citation, or Doran citation
 Blue + Red + White = Jeskai (clan on Tarkir), Raugrin (Ikoria triome), Numot (dragon from Planar Chaos) or Raka (from Rakavolver)
 Black + green + blue = Sultai (clan on Tarkir), Zagoth (Ikoria triome), Vorosh (dragon from Planar Chaos) or Ana (from Anavolver)

Informal usages:

Red + white + black = Borzhov
Red + white + blue = USA/American/Patriot
(although note that Team America is actually black + blue + green)
Red + green + blue = Grizzet
(although it's usually Simic splashing red)

In addition, it's especially common for red + blue + green and black + blue + green to be called by their abbreviations — "RUG" and "BUG" — because these are names that are easy to remember and pronounce, even though those are not the proper color orders.
Four colors
Most decks do not have four full colors. As with three color enemies, if they reach this many colors, it's a shard with a splash of another color. So you're more likely to see something like "American splash black" instead of "Yore", and lately simply "four color" is rising in popularity.
Names for four-color identities come from one of two sources:

The names of the Nephilims from Guildpact.
The names of the four-colour “guild identities” defined during Commander 2016's design.
Reference the one color the four-color combination is missing, thus Non-(color).

The four colour identities' names are:

 Blue + black + red + green = Glint-Eye, or Chaos, or Non-white
 Black + red + green + white = Dune (or Dune-Brood), or Aggression, or Non-blue
 Red + green + white + blue = Ink-Treader, or Altruism, or Non-black
 Green + white + blue + black = Witch (or Witch-Maw), or Growth, or Non-red
 White + blue + black + red = Yore (or Yore-Tiller), or Artifice, or Non-green

Occasionally, some informal usages of four color decks, especially when it involves a typical three color deck with a splash of a fourth, will be to include some kind of pun or other indicator to an established name. For example, taking a Jund (Red, Green, and Black) deck and adding Blue would be more likely to make it something like "Wet Jund" than it would be Glint-Eye or Chaos. Or if only splashing Blue for a single card might make it "Moist Jund", that is Wet Jund that is slightly less wet than Wet Jund. Similar puns can be made for Dark Jeskai (Blue, Red, and White adding Black) and I could envision something along those lines for a splash like Dim Jeskai (Blue, Red, and White splashing Black) although admittedly I've never seen it in the wild.
Five colors
Decks with all five colors usually revolve around a single combo that they hope to pull off. It takes a lot of mana fixing and a massive amount of playtesting to get a reliable five color deck. For this reason, you don't often find them in tournaments. You find them often in Commander (giving the player access to every card ever, greatly increasing the power level of the deck) and in skill challenges where a player just tries to come up with a crazy deck idea to see if he can make it work. Obviously there's only one five color deck, it uses all five:

 Rainbow/Domain/Five-Color/WUBRG (pronounced Whoo-Burg)

Sometimes, four color decks will also be called Rainbow just because they have so many colors.
No colors
Sometimes, particularly in formats with a very large card pool, you'll see colorless decks as well. The most common name for these is a reference to the old card frame for artifact cards:

 Mono brown (not to be confused with BrownTown which is a draft deck leaning heavily on minotaurs)

 Some newer colorless decks have come to be referred to as "Diamond" decks in reference to the diamond-like new symbol for colorless mana

Okay, I thought this was a silly question, but +1 just for insane levels of completism :)

No one calls the mono colors based on mirrodin or eldraine single color tribes/kingdoms...

@Andrew the same could be said for Quandrix; it would be silly to break the pattern.

@corsiKa mostly true. I have heard players who started around that era use strixhaven schools, but still never heard anyone call say green Garenbrig or slyvok. Id argue thats more a case for removing noise from the pattern though, not adding more.

no-color can also be simply called artifact

As noted by others, the 'aligned' color triplets - that is, those that consist of a color and its two siblings to either side on the usual Black-blUe-White-Green-Red color wheel - have nicknames (but not formal names!) based on their 'shards' in the Shards of Alara block: Esper (Ubw), Bant (Wug), Naya (Gwr), Jund (Rgb), and Grixis (Bru).
As for the non-aligned color triplets (which of necessity are one color and its two enemies), the 'dragon' scheme that Lee Abraham mentions based on the names of the dragons that were in Planar Chaos (Intet for Urg, Oros for Wrb, Vorosh for Gub, Numot for Rwu and Teneb for Bgw) is one that I've seen; the other (and slightly more common, at least in the playgroups I play with) is based on the 'shards' that were in Apocalypse, the original 'enemy colors' set - there's a consistent name there that's used on both enchantments
and creatures that care about the enemy-color combinations.  That set is:

Ana for Gub
Ceta for Urg
Dega for Wrb
Necra for Bwg
Raka for Ruw

Those are the names. Not widely-used, though. Just saying "WBR" will get you much more recognition.

I agree with Alex fully on that point. They may accurately suggest the colour combination, but they have no actual terminological "currency" among most Magic players.

I will stick with Dega. Sounds awesome.

I would go so far to say that the shards (and guilds, which are sadly missing from this answer) are formal names. They are routinely referred to by shard and guild by wizard's employees in their Daily MTG columns.

@corsiKa Where this gets a bit annoying is that they're also archetype names. "Jund" is a thing beyond just being a BRG deck. Ditto not every Esper-colors deck in Standard is "Esper control."

@Alex That's true, Jund these days is more of the creature aggressive playstyle characterized by the alara block (which, for the record, were pretty well designed because they were essentially decks everyone was playing anyway!)

@corsiKa Well, event Alara-block-era Jund basically excluded Jund's block mechanic (the all-your-eggs-in-one-basket devour) in favor of its opposite: relentless 2-for-1s.

Is it ironic that when you take Boros (rw) and add black (b), you get Oros (which is boros minus a b)?

In addition to the Ravnica Guilds listed in corsiKa's answer, Strixhaven adds the following (each of which represents one of the colleges):

White + Black = Silverquill
Blue + Red = Prismari
Black + Green = Witherbloom
Red + White = Lorehold
Green + Blue = Quandrix

This is technically correct, but it's unlikely to be widely adopted in place of the existing common names Orzhov, Izzet, Golgari, Boros and Simic

Raj, feel free to edit them in appropriately

Nobody has started referring to the shards via their Ikorian names, even when Ikoria was the most recent standard set. I'd be 99% sure that same will happen with the Strixhaven colleges.

Thanks for adding this; these are worth including for completeness, even if the Ravnica guild names remain more widely used. One further note: we will see how it plays out in practice, but the Strixhaven design team has said there is a distinction in how color pairs interact in Strixhaven vs prior sets (Lorehold / RW is not traditional Boros aggro, for example). So perhaps a deck built around the Strixhaven RW mechanics will retain the "Lorehold" name, and other decks will go back to being called Boros? Hard to say.

2022 update: It's safe to say, since Strixhaven has rotated out of standard, that these names aren't still in widespread use; Prismari may be the only exception due to the relative success of UR control decks featuring Prismari Command and/or UR dragon decks featuring Galazeth Prismari in combination with Goldspan Dragon.

Are Modern players today really not using the Ikorian names? The Ikorian "triome" lands turned out to be quite playable....

WUB: Esper
UBR: Grixis
WUG: Bant
GRW: Naya
RBG: Jund
The other colour combos (two allied colours, plus their joint enemy) have not yet been "named" by another Shards of Alara-esque block, but I'm sure it will happen one day...

Other answers have addressed the 3 color combinations (aka Allied colors correspond to the Shards of Alara and Enemy colors are much less clear) but the two color combinations correspond to the guilds of Ravnica:

WU - Azorius
  WB - Orzhov
  WR - Boros
  WG - Selesnya
  UB - Dimir
  UR - Izzet
  UG - Simic
  BR - Rakdos
  BG - Golgari
  RG - Gruul

I've seen some people call the other color combos by the names of the elder dragons.
For instance RWB - Oros after the card Oros, The Avenger. Other times I've seen them called based on a national flag that contains their colors. For instance RWU is regularly called American.
However the moment there are no "official" names for the wedge colored decks.

Oros (and the other dragons in the same cycle) is not an Elder Dragon. "Elder" is a creature type, and there are 5 Elder Dragons represented as cards: Arcades Sabboth (Bant), Chromium Rhuell (Esper), Nicol Bolas (Grixis), Palladia-Mors (Naya), and Vaevictis Asmadi (Jund). The five Elder Dragons are siblings in the storyline, survivors of the Elder Dragon Wars, and Nicol Bolas is the last (known) living Elder Dragon in the "present" time of the story. The Elder Dragons are ancestors of all other dragons, or at least those on Dominaria.

Blue white Azorious,
Blue black Dimir,
Blue green Simic,
Blue red Izzet,
White black Orzhov,
White green Selesnya,
White red Boros,
Black green Golgari,
Black red Rakdos,
Green red Gruul.

I don't believe there is an answer to black-red-white. Esper refers to one of the Shards of Alara, of which there are five. From a post on TappedOut and MTGSlavation:

Bant - primary white, secondary blue/green
Esper - primary blue, secondary white/black
Grixis - primary black, secondary blue/red
Jund - primary red, secondary black/green
Naya - primary green, secondary red/white

The problem with the "secondary" language is that that's not how most decks with these names actually play in practice. Many Jund decks often get more from its BG axis than its red part, for instance.


text:
What is the limit on selling during your turn?
Bohnanza (known under different names in different countries)
Is a rather simple game intended to have a quick learning curve.
So, the rulebook is brief and  thus there are some gaps that are not covered.  One of this is the selling. Excluding the 2 players variant, according to the rulebook:

you may sell crops at any point of the game

And:

The limit on coins you get is 4 per sale

Combining these rules, I want to know how selling works during your turn. Consider it is your turn and you have two full plantations. Can you:

sell one of them for 4 coins, and plant in the emptied field
sell the other field for 4 coins, and plant a second card?

Basically, does the limit of 4 coins apply to your turn or to a single sale (in which case it's redundant, as no card gives more than 4)?

It is a redundant rule. This printing from Rio Grande Games doesn't even mention the 4 gold maximum per sale. Under Harvesting and selling beans (page 7), it only mentions restrictions on selling from a bean field with fewer than 2 beans only when both fields have exactly 1 bean. The other rule you mention is reiterated though. Therefore, you can earn 8 gold in the example that you gave.

Players may harvest and sell beans at any time, even when they are not the active player. [...]

I think "4 per sale" is fairly simple and explicit, 4 per sale.  You can carry out multiple sales per turn, and gain as many coins from each sale as your beans are worth.
If the game wanted you to gain a maximum of 4 coins on each of your turns as active player, it would certainly have specified "4 coins per turn", instead of "4 per sale" (which pretty much goes without saying anyway).


text:
Can I give a creature First Strike in order to prevent it dealing any damage that combat?
This is getting into some nitpicky corners of the rulebook.
First Strike damage and normal combat damage are dealt at separate times, and I believe there is a chance between the two resolving to play instants and other effects.
Does this mean that Swift Justice (for example) can be used to cause a creature to deal no combat damage in a turn?

First Strike damage is assigned and resolved (my opponent's creature does not have first strike, and therefore deals no combat damage during this step).
I cast Swift Justice on my opponent's creature.
Normal combat damage is assigned and resolved (my opponent's creature does have First Strike, and therefore deals no combat damage during this step).

Does this work if there are no creatures in combat that have First Strike normally? (i.e. Do we skip the First Strike damage step if no creatures have First Strike?)

To answer you tag-on, there is only one combat damage step if nobody has any first- or double- strike as it begins.  "First Strike Damage Step" is no like, a separate type of step, there are just two combat damage steps on a turn it's on the board.

If that did work it would be completely horrible for flavor.  "you weren't fast enough to deal first-strike damage earlier, but now you are, therefore you can't do any damage at all"

@SamIam I'm not really a flavor player. I like to find wonky rules interactions. Unfortunately, those seem much rarer to come by now that combat damage doesn't use the stack.

@StrixVaria: I don't remember pre-double strike, but double strike originally codified the damage step as "All creatures with double strike or creatures that did not deal damage during the first strike combat step deal damage now". Give or take some paraphrasing.

@StrixVaria if you think wonky rules interactions are rarer to come by now simply because combat damage doesn't use the stack, then you aren't looking hard enough. ;)

@StrixVaria I think combat damage using the stack was one of the most unintuitive rules in early MtG and poor design. Creatures should not be able to swing at something yet disappear and still have the swing land.

Long story short, no: you can't give a creature First Strike after the first strike combat damage step in order to stop it dealing damage.  It will deal its damage as soon as it gets a reasonable window of opportunity.
Here's the relevant portions of the Comprehensive Rules:

702.7b If at least one attacking or blocking creature has first strike or double strike (see rule 702.4) as the combat damage step begins,
  the only creatures that assign combat damage in that step are those
  with first strike or double strike. After that step, instead of
  proceeding to the end of combat step, the phase gets a second combat
  damage step. The only creatures that assign combat damage in that step
  are the remaining attackers and blockers that had neither first strike
  nor double strike as the first combat damage step began, as well as
  the remaining attackers and blockers that currently have double
  strike. After that step, the phase proceeds to the end of combat step.
702.7c Giving first strike to a creature without it after combat damage has already been dealt in the first combat damage step won't
  prevent that creature from assigning combat damage in the second
  combat damage step. Removing first strike from a creature after it has
  already dealt combat damage in the first combat damage step won't
  allow it to also assign combat damage in the second combat damage step
  (unless the creature has double strike).

It's interesting that, were this not specifically covered in 702.7c, the tactic proposed in this question could only be used when at least one creature that already had first/double strike was involved in the combat, since the second damage step only exists if that's true during the first.

@Samthere 702.7b actually covers the loophole already.  The second combat damage step specifies that it's only for "attackers and blockers that had neither first strike nor double strike as the first combat damage step began".  As far as I can tell, 702.7c is just explanation of the consequences of 702.7b and it doesn't add any "rules" in the theoretical sense (it's literally a rule of the game, but doesn't actually add to any logical rules to gameplay).


text:
What (if any) is the relationship between your Active and In Decline race?
If the special power of the active race pertains to regions occupied by the race you have in decline, are you allowed to collect coins for that?
For example, you control the Iron Dwarves which are in decline and occupy Mining regions. Your new Active race are Mining Drow.
Can you collect extra coins for the Mining regions that the Iron Dwarves occupy even though it's the Drow special power that allows you to collect extra coins for occupied mining regions?
What is the relationship between races that are Active and In Decline?  Can your Active race occupy a region that's already occupied by a race you have in Decline?

No, powers cannot be shared between races.  They are specific to one race only.
Sometimes though, powers carry on in to decline.  When you flip over your race/power tokens to go in to decline, it usually has symbols or graphics on the back that show what powers remain in decline.  If it is just blank then you have no decline powers (See backside of Dwarves, Ghouls, and Trolls race cards here (Courtesy of BoardGameGeek.com).  See also spirit power).  However, these decline advantages are still specific to that particular race.
For the second question, how does an active race occupy a region owned by your race in decline?..
Page 4, section 2, 2nd Column, says:

A player may choose to conquer a Region occupied by
  his own In Decline token, if he wishes to: He will lose that
  token, but might gain access to a Region that is more
  profitable for his new Active Race tokens to occupy.

This is the only for your active race to occupy a region in control of your decline race.  The same rules apply as conquering any other region.

" When you flip over your race/power tokens to go in to decline, it usually has symbols or graphics on the back that show what powers remain in decline." --> In fact all the powers that remain active while in decline also features the broken column pictogram on their active side as a reminder

No, Races have only one Special Power badge associated with them. You will see it referred to as a Race and Special Power combo throughout the rules. A Race does not share its Special Power with any other Race. Races in decline usually lose their Special Power badge. (excerpt from Entering In Decline, page 8). The relationship between your Active and in-Decline races is that you score Victory coins for the regions both occupy at the end of each of your turns.

To do so, the player flips his current Race banner upside down, so that the duotone In Decline side becomes visible to all, and discards the Special Power badge that was associated with it as that Special Power badge is no longer in effect, unless dictated otherwise (e.g. Muddy, Reborn, Royal, etc…). The only relationship between your Active and In-Decline races is that you score Victory coins for both of them.

Your Active Race cannot occupy your In-Decline race without conquering its Region (and discarding the in-decline race token). Nothing prevents you from attacking your in-decline race as noted on page 6.

Note: A player may choose to conquer a Region occupied by his own In Decline token, if he wishes to: He will lose the tokens, but might gain access to a Region that is more profitable for his new Active Race to occupy.

The only relationship (unless a specific power says otherwise) is that they both give money to you. They don't interact, so your Drow example would garner no extra income.
For you second question the answer is simple, you occupy the region the same way anyone else would, exterminate* the in decline race there and take it.
*Sorry, I've been watching a lot of Doctor Who lately.

The only relationships are that...

both pay you victory points/coins
when your active race goes into decline, your prior in-decline race goes away.

Each race's special powers are explicitly only for the race they are on.

Each Special Power badge gives a unique benefit to the race it
  is associated with. (p. 8)

and

The Races
The list that follows details the benefit(s) conferred to each race;
  the number of matching Race tokens received when selecting
  this Race banner is indicated by the numerical value listed on
  the banner. (p. 9)

and

Special Powers
In the description of Special Powers that follow, when we use
  the term "you" or "your", we mean the Race tokens of your race
  associated with this Special Power. Unless explicitly stated
  otherwise, this usually excludes any token In Decline from your
  earlier race. (p. 11)

Note that the only power that affects another in-decline race in the base box is "Spirit" and then only by virtue of not eliminating it when the spirit race goes into decline.


text:
Where do Auras go when a card is put on top of its owner's library?
Say a player casts a card that returns a permanent to the top of owner's library, for example Banishment Decree, and the targeted creature card he chooses has two Auras enchanting it.  Where do the Aura enchantments go, to the players hand, graveyard or library?

Your question doesn't make any sense, what card are you speaking about specifically? Disempower, Excommunicate, or Banishment Decree (some other card). Your title doesn't match the text...what is being targeted, the Aura/Enchantment, the Creature, the player or something else?

It goes to the graveyard.
You seem to be under the misconception that Auras follow the permanent to which they are attached to the graveyard. That's not the case. It's just a coincidence that both end up in the same place.
When an object changes zone (e.g. goes from the battlefield to the graveyard), it becomes a brand new object. The original object ceases to exist, and a new one is created in the new zone.

400.7. An object that moves from one zone to another becomes a new object with no memory of, or relation to, its previous existence. There are seven exceptions to this rule: [...]

No matter whether the enchanted permanent goes to the graveyard or to the player's library, the object the Aura was enchanting has ceased to exist. The game doesn't tolerate that since Auras are suppose to enchant something, so it sends the Aura to the graveyard.

303.4c If an Aura is enchanting an illegal object or player as defined by its enchant ability and other applicable effects, the object it was attached to no longer exists, or the player it was attached to has left the game, the Aura is put into its owner’s graveyard. (This is a state-based action. See rule 704.)

If it was an Equipment or Fortification instead, it would remain on the battlefield unattached.

704.5p If an Equipment or Fortification is attached to an illegal permanent, it becomes unattached from that permanent. It remains on the battlefield.

Assuming when you say 'Enchantment' you specifically mean 'Aura', they are sent to the graveyard.
Bold is mine.

303.4c If an Aura is enchanting an illegal object or player as defined by its enchant ability and other applicable effects, the object it was attached to no longer exists, or the player it was attached to has left the game, the Aura is put into its owner's graveyard. (This is a state-based action. See rule 704.)

Some popular cards, like Rancor and Angelic Destiny, may appear to violate this rule. There are a number of cards that have triggers that will pop the Aura out of the graveyard and send it to your hand. Many players will take the shortcut of simply taking the card from the battlefield to their hand instead of taking the intermediate step of putting it in the graveyard. If there's any confusion about such a short cut, make sure to ask your opponent or call a judge, because you do have an opportunity to respond before the trigger resolves while the card is still in the graveyard.
Also, if you were referring to another enchantment type you'll have to clarify. As far as I'm aware, only Auras can attach to creatures and other permanents.

If an object ceases to exist, and creatures can only exist on the battlefield, any Auras attached to the creature are placed in their owner's graveyard as a state-based action.

303.4c If an Aura is enchanting an illegal object or player as defined by its enchant ability and other applicable effects, the object it was attached to no longer exists, or the player it was attached to has left the game, the Aura is put into its owner’s graveyard. (This is a state-based action. See rule 704.)


text:
Where does the Shoggoth come from in story 1B?
Am I missing something in the rules?  One of the objectives references a Shoggoth, but there is no mention of one on any clue, mythos, or Keeper action card.
I've read references to taking samples being involved in producing a Shoggoth, but can't find a reference to this anywhere in the rules or guides.
Help! Have I gone mad!?

The Objective card for 1B reads (at the top, emphasis mine):

If there are 2 sample tokens on an altar reveal this objective and place a shoggoth in the Ceremony Room.

Once the keeper gets 2 samples using the Take a Sample Keeper action and gets them back to the altar, the fun begins. :)


text:
How do two Notion Thieves interact with each other?
Notion Thief's text reads:

If an opponent would draw a card except the first one he or she draws
in each of his or her draw steps, instead that player skips that draw
and you draw a card.

When both players have a Notion Thief in play and one casts a Think Twice, What happens?

Hmm replacement effects can only trigger once off the same trigger, but with 2 Notion Thieves its a different drawing of a card by a different player each time...

They cancel out.

Alice casts Think Twice, it resolves, and Alice is instructed to

Draw a card

Bob's Notion Thief's replacement effect kicks in, changing the instruction to

Bob draws a card

Then one looks if any other replacement effects apply. Alice's Notion Thief's replacement effect kicks in, changing the instruction to

Alice draws a card

And that's the final effect. Bob's Notion Thief has already modified the event, so it can't modify it again.

614.5. A replacement effect doesn’t invoke itself repeatedly; it gets only one opportunity to affect an event or any modified events that may replace it.
616.1e Once the chosen effect has been applied, this process is repeated (taking into account only replacement or prevention effects that would now be applicable) until there are no more left to apply.
616.2. A replacement or prevention effect can become applicable to an event as the result of another replacement or prevention effect that modifies the event.

Each Notion Thief's replacement effect is applied only once.

If we both have an equal number of Notion Thieves in play, the original player will draw the card(s).

If one of us has more Notion Thieves than the other, then that player will get to draw the card(s).

Here are the relevant comp rules, in detail:

614.1. Some continuous effects are replacement effects. Like prevention effects (see rule 615), replacement effects apply continuously as events happen -- they aren't locked in ahead of time. Such effects watch for a particular event that would happen and completely or partially replace that event with a different event. They act like "shields" around whatever they're affecting.

614.1a Effects that use the word "instead" are replacement effects. Most replacement effects use the word "instead" to indicate what events will be replaced with other events.

[...]

614.5. A replacement effect doesn't invoke itself repeatedly; it gets only one opportunity to affect an event or any modified events that may replace it.

Example: A player controls two permanents, each with an ability that reads "If a creature you control would deal damage to a creature or player, it deals double that damage to that creature or player instead." A creature that normally deals 2 damage will deal 8 damage -- not just 4, and not an infinite amount.

[...]

616.1e Once the chosen effect has been applied, this process is repeated (taking into account only replacement or prevention effects that would now be applicable) until there are no more left to apply.

Example: Two permanents are on the battlefield. One is an enchantment that reads "If a card would be put into a graveyard from anywhere, instead exile it," and the other is a creature that reads "If [this creature] would be put into a graveyard from the battlefield, instead shuffle it into its owner's library." If the creature is destroyed, its controller decides which replacement to apply first; the other does nothing.

Example: Essence of the Wild reads "Creatures you control enter the battlefield as a copy of Essence of the Wild." A player who controls Essence of the Wild casts Rusted Sentinel, which normally enters the battlefield tapped. As it enters the battlefield, the copy effect from Essence of the Wild is applied first. As a result, it no longer has the ability that causes it to enter the battlefield tapped. Rusted Sentinel will enter the battlefield as an untapped copy of Essence of the Wild.

616.2. A replacement or prevention effect can become applicable to an event as the result of another replacement or prevention effect that modifies the event.

Example: One effect reads "If you would gain life, draw that many cards instead," and another reads "If you would draw a card, return a card from your graveyard to your hand instead." Both effects combine (regardless of the order they came into existence): Instead of gaining 1 life, the player puts a card from his or her graveyard into his or her hand.

So,

We both control a Notion Thief.
You cast Think Twice.
Since you would draw cards, my Notion Thief's replacement effect is applied, allowing me to draw the card.
Since now I would draw cards, your Notion Theif's replacement effect is applied, allowing you to draw the card (per 616.1e and 616.2).
My Notion Thief has already modified the game action; I don't apply him again (per 614.5). If I flashed in a second one before Think Twice resolved, however, I would get to apply that one's ability and draw the card.

Here's confirmation from Judge Emeritus Sheldon Menery, with an explanation of how the cards work in multiplayer:

When two replacement effects try to modify the same event, the controller of the affected permanent, ability, or spell chooses which applies, but that's not significant until you add additional players. In a two player game, they wash out. You go to draw a card. Mine replaces that with me drawing, which yours then replaces with you drawing.

It gets ugly in a multiplayer game when B and C both have one and A tries to draw. Since it's my draw that's being replaced, I choose B's replacement to replace it, but then C's replaces that when B tries to draw. Effectively, the player without one gets to pick who draws "his" card(s).

Note that it is possible to get a card-drawing loop with Notion Thief and another card, if that card a triggered ability like "Whenever an opponent draws a card" rather than a replacement effect. Prominent examples include Consecrated Sphinx and Psychic Posession. What happens in this case is that the Notion Thief will cause each of the draw triggers to trigger another one, causing the Notion Thief's controller to deck himself unless the loop is interrupted by destroying one of the permanents.