text:
Brackets for tournament in a three player game
Suppose we have game which can only be played in a group of three.
I want my playing system to be somewhat similar to the "Double elimination tournament" but I have trouble getting my head around it.
I want the system to differentiate between the player which comes first and second in each match (or second and third respectively). For example I would like the winner to stay in the same bracket, the runner-up to move one bracket bellow and the looser to go to two brackets down.
I hope that this makes it at least a bit clear since I have scribbled over a ton of paper trying to come up with something that will work.

What you are looking for sounds like you need a bunch of pre matches where you get seeded based on how you do in those.

So you want to take track of the scores per match, so you eventually have a total game performance?

It's virtually identical to 2-player games, except there are two "loser" brackets instead of one, and an extra game could be needed because you can get into a situation where everyone lost twice.
________  \
________  ->01  ________  \
________  /                |
                           |
________  \                |
________  ->02  ________  ->16  ________  \
________  /                |               |
                           |               |
________  \                |               |
________  ->03  ________  /                |
________  /                                |
                                           |
________  \                                |
________  ->04  ________  \                |
________  /                |               |
                           |               |
________  \                |               |
________  ->05  ________  ->17  ________  ->23  ________  -----------------\
________  /                |               |                               |
                           |               |                               |
________  \                |               |                               |
________  ->06  ________  /                |                               |
________  /                                |                               |
                                           |                               |
________  \                                |                               |
________  ->07  ________  \                |                               |
________  /                |               |                               |
                           |               |                               |
________  \                |               |                               |
________  ->08  ________  ->18  ________  /                                |
________  /                |                                               |
                           |                                               |
________  \                |                                               |
________  ->09  ________  /                                                |
________  /                                                                |
                                                                           |
                                                                           |
                                                __12P2__  \                |
                                                           |               |
                                __16P2__  \                |               |
                                __17P2__  ->19  ________  ->24  ________  ->26  ________
                                __18P2__  /                |               |
                                                           |               |
                __01P2__  \                                |               |
                __02P2__  ->10  ________  \                |               |
                __03P2__  /                |               |               |
                                           |               |               |
                                           |               |               |
                __04P2__  \                |               |               |
                __05P2__  ->11  ________  ->20  ________  /                |
                __06P2__  /                |                               |
                                           |                               |
                                           |                               |
                __07P2__  \                |                               |
                __08P2__  ->12  ________  /                                |
                __09P2__  /                                                |
                                                                           |
                                                                           |
                                                __12P3__  \                |
                                                           |               |
                                __16P3__  \                |               |
                                __17P3__  ->21  ________  ->25  ________  /
                                __18P3__  /                |
                                                           |
                __01P3__  \                                |
                __02P3__  ->13  ________  \                |
                __03P3__  /                |               |
                                           |               |
                                           |               |
                __04P3__  \                |               |
                __05P3__  ->14  ________  ->22  ________  /
                __06P3__  /                |
                                           |
                                           |
                __07P3__  \                |
                __08P3__  ->15  ________  /
                __09P3__  /

[xxPy refers to the person who placed in position y of in game x.]

If 23P1 doesn't win 26, this is their first loss. Replay 26. [27]
If 24P1 won 26 and 25P1 wins 27, everyone lost twice. Replay 27. [28]
If 25P1 won 26 and 24P1 wins 27, everyone lost twice. Replay 27. [28]

An in-depth view of games 26..28:
                 Game Winner      Total Loss Count  Result
                 --------------   ----------------  ------------
                 26   27   28     23P1  24P1  25P1

Before game 26:                   0     1     1     => Game 26

After game 26:   23P1             0     2     2     => 23P1 wins
                 24P1             1     1     2     => Game 27
                 25P1             1     2     1     => Game 27

After game 27:   24P1 23P1        1     2     3     => 23P1 wins
                 24P1 24P1        2     1     3     => 24P1 wins
                 24P1 25P1        2     2     2     => Game 28

                 25P1 23P1        1     3     2     => 23P1 wins
                 25P1 24P1        2     2     2     => Game 28
                 25P1 25P1        2     3     1     => 25P1 wins

After game 28:   24P1 25P1 23P1   2     3     3     => 23P1 wins
                 24P1 25P1 24P1   3     2     3     => 24P1 wins
                 24P1 25P1 25P1   3     3     2     => 25P1 wins

                 25P1 24P1 23P1   2     3     3     => 23P1 wins
                 25P1 24P1 24P1   3     2     3     => 24P1 wins
                 25P1 24P1 25P1   3     3     2     => 25P1 wins

Yes, that means the best players may have a chance of winning after being eliminated twice, but I don't think that's a problem, and I'm not sure there's a solution if it is.

Look at curling's Page Playoff System as a possible resolution of the conflict. In that, four teams qualify for the playoff; 1 vs 2 is the first semi-final and 3 vs 4 is the quarter final; loser of 1 vs 2 and winner of 3 vs 4 play second semi-final. The Gold-medal and Bronze-medal games are winner take all single game matches. Various repechage systems exist in other games and sports also.

@Forget I was ever here, there's already a way of handling 2-team games (and that's not it). This question is about 3-team games.

Looking at your mid bracket the winner of game 12 goes to game 20 and then onto game 24. However the second place in game 12 seems to go straight through to game 24 unless I am misreading something...


text:
Proposing editions of a game
Suppose I have what I think is a great idea for a new Settlers expansion. (Like 5,000 other people, no doubt!)
What would be the most effective way to realize this possibility? Write to the makers and outline the idea? Pitch it like a novel manuscript?
Or do such things not get publicly sourced? If I want to play it, is my best bet just to make my own set for use by friends and family?
This question doesn't have to be about Settlers; it can be read as being about any game in the market. There are so many editions & flavours of all the most popular games, and I guess the core question is: Are they all generated internally or could a community member propose one?

See my answer to this question - Can Konami accept a Yu-Gi-Oh card that I made? - which explains why you will never have an idea even looked at by the manufacturers of a game.

You may struggle to get a publisher to look at a submission idea for an established game.  This is what Hans Im Gluck say about Carcassonne expansion submissions.

We are also interested in ideas for expansions. However, ideas for
expansions are not always unique. Sometimes it happens that we get
similar ideas multiple times and often the author of the game had
similar ideas for an expansion.
We want to treat everybody who submits his ideas with respect. We have
to mention, however, that you are not implicitly the author of a game
idea if you have submitted an idea with a resembling title or
resembling game mechanics. This is important for expansions and
especially for Carcassonne.
Therefore we won't look at expansion ideas for Carcassonne anymore!

If you want to pitch a game to a publisher then pretty much every publisher website will have a contact page detailing how to contact them and what they are looking for.  You will also find lots of useful info about game design and submitting to publishers on the Cardboard Edison website.
I myself followed a lot of the advice there, managed to secure my self a demo slot to publishers at last years virtual UKGE which had a positive outcome.

source: Stack Exchange

license: Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/

sort: votes


text:
Codenames Pictures but with more surreal, colourful paintings
We all know Codenames and Codenames: Pictures.
A few years ago at a Snakes & Lattes, I and a few others played a version of Codenames that was like Codenames: Pictures, but the images were very different.
Whereas Codenames: Pictures has monochromatic, mostly two-element drawings:

This one had more watercolour-style ones, perhaps like this:

Also, I seem to recall that the cards were portrait orientation, but maybe they were square like Codenames: Pictures.
After much searching, I've resigned myself to the likelihood that it's not Codenames, despite the fact that everyone who played it that day remembered it as such.
Does anyone know which one I might be thinking of? P.S. Snakes & Lattes has a partner site that lists their board games to rent or buy (choose "Enter as Guest"), but a quick skim of their "Guessing" category turns up nothing too promising.

Might it have been Dixit?

It was Dixit!
BGG description: "Give the perfect clue so most (not all) players guess the right surreal image card."

Whereas Codenames: Pictures has monochromatic, mostly two-element drawings ... this one had more watercolour-style ones ... Also, I seem to recall that the cards were portrait orientation ...

Dixit card pictures posted at https://coalition.agileuprising.com/t/dixit-retrospective/399

Dixit has some similar guessing elements to Codenames: Pictures. Both of them have have players try to find pictures out of an array that match a verbal clue.

Also, there are expansion packs for Dixit with a variety of weird picture styles.  And the Dixit cards are much larger and less sturdy than Codenames cards; they're more like heavy playing cards.

Update: Dixit the game is pretty weak, but these pictures make for a great Codenames: Pictures set.

all_licenses: Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/


text:
Monopoly moving wrong token
What needs to happen if you move the wrong token in monopoly? E.g. you should move 4 with your token but you take someone else's token and move it 4.

You move it back and then move the right token instead. At what point was the mistake noticed?

Noticed before the next turn.

Undo before the next move has been made.

Alternatively play it cool and carry on. Hope for the best that the game ends soon

license: Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0/


text:
How to contact a moderator on boardgamegeek.com?
I created an account on boardgamegeek.com only for my account to be frozen after my first post.
While logged in, I get the message "Your user account is not permitted to perform that action." on anything I click.
How do I contact a moderator on boardgamegeek.com? The site requires me to be logged in to send a personnal message, but I'm not permitted to do so.

Surely this is a question that should be asked there, not here.

@Chenmunka, Except they are prevented from doing that.

I'm voting to close this question as off-topic because it asks about a website instead of a board or card game.

I'm a long time user on BGG. You can create a second account (a sock puppet account in BGG lingo). Then write admin "Octavian" a geekmail (email in BGG system) describing the problem with the first account. // You can also just forget about the locked account and open another since you really don't have anything invested in the first account. The quandary is why the first account got locked. // BGG has a group that very actively looks for spam. You might have bumped into that problem. For any other reason an admin would send you an email (geekmail) explaining why you are getting banned.

@MaxW Oh, thank you. I didn't want to because I thought it would be linked to my email, but I was able to create a new account with my same email.

At the footer of every page, there's a link to their contactform, which doesn't require you to be logged in to use.
According to that form, you can also send an e-mail to contact@boardgamegeek.com.

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text:
What is this "power enumerator" in Scythe?
In the top right corner of Scythe gameboard is this "power enumerator".

However, I fail to find any information related to this "enumerator" in guide and automata guide as well.
Do you have any idea what is it for?
Note: This is from the standard "single" side, not the half-cut, extensible side.
Thank you

It is the number of each denomination of power card in the deck. This is the same as the table in the rules on page 22.


text:
Informal history of Crazy Rummy and/or Frustration?
It's my understanding that Gin Rummy was 'codified' in 1909 and that Rummy games in general are thought to be 'descended' from Conquian.
And I realize that minor variants tend to be more of a 'house rule' flavor and don't have 'official rules' write-ups.
So this is essentially an informal poll, but I'm wondering about two games that I've played with family over the years (but never thought until now to trace how they were introduced).
These both fit in the Contract category; the main differences are:

in our Crazy Rummy, assigned melds always consist of sets of 3 and/or runs of 4; you can only build onto your own melds; the number of cards dealt increases in later rounds to accommodate larger assignments; and each round everybody proceeds to the next assigned meld, regardless of whether or not they put down the previous one.
in our Frustration, the sizes of sets and runs range from 2-5 and 3-9 respectively; each player is 'stuck' with an assignment from round to round if they don't manage to put it down before someone else goes out; and once your assignment's been put down you can build on any others that have also been put down.

I don't expect to discover "X was invented by Q in 19__" - I'm just wondering how long ago anyone can recall playing or hearing about either of these.  I first played the Crazy variant in the early 1980s, and Frustration in 2010.  The group who introduced me to the latter had never heard of the former (and didn't like it when they tried it); the group who introduced me to the former have passed on.
(And if anyone has known the same concepts by other names, I hope it isn't a serious breach of the one-question-one-answer principle for that to be a follow-up/side issue.)


text:
What is this game (on the bottom)?
Trying to figure out what game is circled in the bottom of this image. Would appreciate any help.

It looks like there's at least a bit more information on that page? Maybe at least a company name or something?

I don't have anything other than this picture

It's Rock Me Archimedes. The page is from Target's Black Friday 2017 Toy Catalog.


text:
Sacrificing Sengir Autocrat and his Serfs at Same Time
Say I have Sengir Autocrat with his 3 serfs out. Am I able to sacrifice him, his 3 serfs, and an additonal creature to pay for Westvale Abbey's transform ability? Or does his effect make it impossible to sacrifice him together with his tokens, as him leaving exiles all tokens leaving me with only 2 creatures (Sengir Autocrat and the additional creature) to sacrifice?

Yes, you may sacrifice all three serf creature tokens to help pay Westvale Abbey's Costs.
This is because Sengir Autocrat's second ability is triggered when he leaves the battlefield. By the time you've finished activating this ability, all your serfs have already been sacrificed to the Abby and are no longer on the battlefield to be removed.
Let's break down the interaction step by step:

You have a Westvale Abbey, Sengir Autocrat, 3 serf tokens, and a zombie token.
You activate Westvale Abbey's ability, tapping it, paying five mana and sacrificing all 5 creatures. All the creatures goto your graveyard per comprehensive rules:

701.15a To sacrifice a permanent, its controller moves it from the battlefield directly to its owner’s graveyard. A player can’t sacrifice something that isn’t a permanent, or something that’s a permanent he or she doesn’t control. Sacrificing a permanent doesn’t destroy it, so regeneration or other effects that replace destruction can’t affect this action.

With its costs paid Westvale Abbey's ability goes onto the stack.
The game sees that Sengir Autocrat has left the battlefield, his ability goes onto the stack.
Assuming no responses, the stack starts to resolve. Sengir Autocrat's ability resolves and checks for any Serfs you control, but they are already gone so nothing happens. Westvale Abbey's ability now resolves and you get your Profane Prince.

You can sacrifice the Serfs and the Autocrat together.
This is a triggered ability:

When Sengir Autocrat leaves the battlefield, exile all Serf tokens.

The moment Sengir Autocrat dies, all that'll happen is that the ability goes on the stack. You can respond to it normally, including by activating other abilities, before it resolves and you're forced to exile the Serfs. (You could even use Time Stop or Stifle to counter the trigger and keep the masterless Serfs "forever.")
"Sacrifice five creatures" is a single game action. You do the whole thing, then check for state-based actions. The new game state (Sengir Autocrat went to your graveyard) will cause its ability to trigger. Then and only then will you put its ability ("exile all Serf tokens") on the stack.
In fact, even with a card like Master of Waves, which kills its token-children as a state-based action when it leaves play (and they end up with zero toughness), you can sacrifice the lord and all the tokens together. Because even state-based actions aren't checked until you perform the full action — "sacrifice five creatures" (also, tap the Abbey and pay five mana). It's one discrete "moment" as far as the game is concerned, even if you spend a full minute picking which creatures to sacrifice as you're activating the ability in real life.


text:
Can multiple people build at the same time in Monopoly?
From the Monopoly rulebook:

If there are a limited
  number of houses and hotels available and two or more players wish
  to buy more than the Bank has, the houses or hotels must be sold at
  auction to the highest bidder.

I don't quite understand this scenario. I thought that in Monopoly you could only build on your property on your own turn. Given that, I don't see how the scenario of two or more players trying to build at the same time could happen. Is my understanding of the rules incorrect? Is building houses on another player's turn allowed? If so, can it be done after the player rolls the dice and lands on your property?

You only pay rent for the number of houses that existed when you landed.

Although it is nonsensical to think that I can purchase houses between "the moment you land on my property" and "the moment I ask you to pay me rent", I must admit that I cannot find anything in the rules (other than common sense) that would prevent this from happening.

Yes indeed you can buy houses and hotels at any time.  If there is a shortage of houses or hotels and more then one player wants to buy them from the bank, they must go to auction and the highest bidder gets them assuming the bid is higher then the purchase price from the bank (I.E. you can't buy a house on Boardwalk with a winning $150 bid as they cost $200 to buy but you could buy a house on Baltic avenue with a winning $150 bid as they cost $50).  Once the dice are rolled resulting in a player heading towards a property, the rolling player pays rent on what was there before the dice where rolled. As a home rule procedure in my family, we have added that a player can yell out ''STOP THE GAME'' invest on a property then allow the rolling player to go ahead and roll the dice.  This prevents a player from rushing their turn along while another is getting a drink or something.

Could you cite the rules around this to help substantiate this answer as correct?

You do seem to have some very strange rules.

There is no rule that the bid must meet or exceed the list price of the house, just as there is no rule that you cannot buy Boardwalk at auction for less than $400 (or even $200, its mortgage value). The high demand for houses—after all, what started the auction was a shortage—will probably ensure that the houses will have high prices anyway.


text:
Does Lapras attack "Aqua Bullet" attack both Active and Benched Poémon?
I have Lapras pokémon with Aqua Bullet attack with bold 20 damage amount with description:

This attack does 20 damage to 1 of your opponent's Benched Pokémon.
(Don't apply Weakness and Resistance for Benched Pokémon.)

What is not clear to me is whether this attack:

only does 20 damage to Benched Pokémon
it does 20 damage to Benched Pokémon and 20 to Active Pokémon

Is there special meaning to having large damage number printed next to attack?
Unfortunately damage amount is same, it would be clear if amounts would be different or if there would be no large damage amount printed.
I tried to compare with other cards and it did not help, more below.
For the first case I would expect it to not have large 20 damage next to attack. Like Morpeko - Target Spark (without large 30 next to attack):

This attack does 30 damage to 1 of your opponent’s Pokémon. (Don’t
apply Weakness and Resistance for Benched Pokémon.)

For the second case I would expect description to be worded like:

This attack also does 20 damage...

Like Steelix - Earthquake does:

This attack also does 30 damage to each of your Benched Pokémon.
(Don’t apply Weakness and Resistance for Benched Pokémon.)

When a new era (new generation) is about to start in Pokémon TCG, standardized card texts are usually revised and improved. Your example falls into this category - since Sword & Shield era, the word "also" has been added to the attacks that do damage to both Active Pokémon and Benched Pokémon:

This attack also does X damage to 1 of your opponent's Benched Pokémon.

Before that, all such attacks had just this shorter text – regardless if there was some damage done to Active Pokémon (the big number) or not:

This attack does X damage to 1 of your opponent's Benched Pokémon.

Example cards from Sun & Moon era that have different amounts of damage done:

Example cards from Sword & Shield era with either variation of the attack text:


text:
What is this wooden animals game with unique dice?
Does anyone recognize these game pieces?

I found them at a second hand store and having a hard time finding where they come from.
Here is what I have (all wooden):
4 blue roosters (?)
4 green pine trees
4 red ducks
4 brown rabbits
3 yellow chickens (?)
3 white sheep
1 normal size die with each color
1 large die with each symbol on its sides
I may be missing 1 sheep and 1 chicken and I don't know if it came with a board or not.
Any help in identifying these is appreciated.
Thanks!

I'm not certain at all so this is a comment not an answer.  There seem to be lots of variants of Animal Upon Animal, some like this one (https://www.amazon.com/HABA-Animal-Upon-Climbers-Swiss-Inspired/dp/B01BMSBYK8) include trees.  The numbers of components looks about right.  Is it possible made a custom version?

@StartPlayer You may be on to it! I've seen versions of those before, but never with trees or the large die, so that made me think it might be something new. Your link certainly has trees and pine trees at that. The double dice would be a new element to that type of game but I think I can narrow my search and continue to hunt for this specific version. If nothing comes up, then you might be right about it being custom.

(Caveat: This is not a complete answer.)
I recognize several of the animal figurines; I had them as a kid, but not as part of any game (and not with the large die). They were part of Discovery Toys' "Wooden Playtime" set (1983):

The small color-dot die is also associated with Discovery Toys and/or Ravensburger; for example, it's used in Snail's Pace Race (1985).
However, I have never seen the big wooden die before.
So basically, you might look for answers in the mid-1980s, in Germany, possibly Ravensburger (that is, Otto Maier Verlag, since the modern Ravensburger is apparently a different entity reincorporated in 1992 with the same logo), and almost certainly a game for young children (in case there was any doubt on that count :)).

This is a great lead! Thank you very much. This is definitely halfway there with those exact same pieces, so now I'm just looking to hunt down where the large die comes from. If I find it, I'll accept this answer for sure.


text:
What are the rules to this "CheeseGame"?
I was treasure hunting through a second-hand shop that imports most of its items from Japan and I found this wooden game.
Pieces:
5 Natural-colored Cheese Wedges
1 Yellow Cheese Wedge
1 Mouse
1 Dome Base Board (?)
It did not come with original box and there are no other branding on any of the pieces other than what I'm assuming is the base or board of the game as you can see in the first image below, with the words "CheeseGame". But there is a distinct small white X on the mouse's cheek.
I'm not sure if I have all of the pieces because when I line up the cheese wedges on the "board", there is a perfect gap for two more wedges. (seen in second image)
The base is a wooden dome that I am assuming is placed upside down so that the rounded bottom creates the stage for a balancing game. The third image turns this base upside down to show it clearly.
Can anyone help identify this? I'm usually quite good at internet sleuthing, but no luck so far.

for a little context: https://www.biccamera.com/bc/item/1414786/

@npst That was SUPER helpful! Confirms 6 cheese total and provides the company name. So I tracked them down and found their active facebook page with an email. Fingers crossed they respond with game rules!

Thanks to @npst for the tip on the Japanese manufacturer's name, which lead to contacting them directly and receiving a response on the rules of the game!
Here is what they wrote back:

Thank you for your inquiry.
  The image you have attached is "Balance Game" of our product "Cheese Game".
  This is a wooden toy that also becomes an interior, and the contents are 7 pieces of cheese, 1 mouse and 1 base.
The attached PDF data is a guidance sheet enclosed with the product.
  Stack the cheese and the rat on the base so as not to collapse.
  There is no particular rule.
  Please try various stacking methods and enjoy.

Here is the image that comes with the game to explain the rules (in Japanese). But the image at least suggests some pretty interesting stacking options.

Not sure what they meant by "also becomes an interior", maybe "interior decoration"? Because I have been playing with it as a desk toy and it works well for that.
So, not an actual 2 player game as I was hoping but fun none-the-less, and glad to have been able to solve the mystery. Thanks to all who attempted to track this down.


text:
How to analyse my own games?
I try to review my own games in order to improve (I am maybe 16-15k).
For every move that I think is wrong, I try to find a better move.
My question is: how do I know the move I find in analysis in better then the one I played? (except for obvious cases, like when a group is killed and I find the move that would have saved it)
Should I use an engine like Crazy Stone in order to check this?
Is there a better way to analyse my games?

If you are ~15k you do not really need to review your own games. Just play more games, you will get stronger. Actually, reviewing your own games right now might be counter-productive, since you will become accustomed to some bad plays. Maybe have a stronger player explain to you briefly one or 2 major mistakes, but then go on and just play more games.

Your current approach to reviewing seems good and I recommend you continue this way. If you are not satisfied with a situation, find the reason that led to the situation. Sometimes it is an immediately prior move, sometimes a mistake in fuseki.
If you are having trouble to find the underlying reason, or a better solution to it, you should show your game to someone else who is as strong (more eyes see more) or stronger than you. In the past, there was the Go Teaching Ladder GTL (in which I participated, it was fun!), but it sadly shut down a while ago. You can still ask on KGS in the KTL room. Surely there are some other opportunities, too. One of the things that I find fascinating and enticing about Go is that many people really like to help.
I recommend strongly against using engines like CrazyStone. They always consider the whole board, and will recommend moves that are not helpful in understanding the problem. They might be more valuable when you are strong (definitely dan level, probably high dan level) - but when you are that strong, you can already find better moves yourself. Of course, This may change when stronger engines become available.
I also know of no Go engines that take future positions into account. (I believe it is different in chess!) That is to say, when you believe a certain move leads to trouble (much) later on, even in a sequence that can hardly be deviated from, then there is still not way to make the engine aware of that fact. It will happily suggest moves that are bad, only to notice its mistake a few moves later. It seems to be impossible to fix this in our current tools - search depth grows so quickly that letting it search longer often does not help.

I was going to recommend Crazy Stone, but your argument makes perfect sense.


text:
Floating eye win / loss condition [spoilers]
If a hero is broken out of mind control, they cannot be controlled again. Heroes that are controlled do not attack other heroes, only board the spaceship. Does this mean that if a single hero breaks mind control, the heroes automatically win, with the freed hero just bashing the spaceship?

No, a hero breaking free of mind control does not itself make the game unwinnable for the traitor.
The Traitor's win condition for this haunt is exactly as follows:

You Win When ...
... all of the heroes are either dead or on the spaceship.

Note that if either of these happens to a hero, they are out of the game. Effectively, this means that the traitor wins when all heroes are unable to act. The "can only mind control a hero once" limitation simply means that any hero that breaks free of mind control must be killed for the traitor to win.

But the traitor has no way to kill heroes, so the only way for them to die would be to enter a room and have it kill them.  IMHO there should be a time limit on destroying the space ship.

"... the traitor has no way to kill heroes" - what?! This is not correct at all. The Alien can make Might attacks on Heroes.

Oh, that is what I was missing.


text:
How can I hold pieces in place between turns?
Let's say you want to play a longish board game over the course of several days. For many games this is a fairly unwise idea that entails a bunch of problems. Among them: People are going to bump into the table. Cats are going to sit on the board. The pieces are going to get shifted around. How can you prevent this? How can you make those pieces stay put?
The issue arose for me because I'm designing a game intended to be played in this long-term fashion. But I think the issue has applications for lots of gamers, especially those who play with their families, partners, or housemates. So I'd like to explore options that can be applied to existing games, either by modifying the original game elements or by building a custom set with readily available materials.
This question is concerned with fixing pieces or tokens in place on a single flat board, to the exclusion of the many other complications that this style of play will create depending on the game. However, most any game played in this manner is going to involve some recordkeeping between sessions, so when you get back to the game you'll know whose turn it is or what phase you're in the middle of. You could preserve a board's state by folding it into this recordkeeping task, either by writing down all the necessary information or by taking a picture of the board so you can reconstruct it later. Besides being no fun at all, this method could be prohibitively complex for games with enough objects on the board. So this is a last resort (or, not really a solution).
There are travel editions of many games that fix pieces in place either with magnets or with friction (popping little plastic pieces into a plastic frame). I don't know how I'd create or modify a game board to use either of these methods, short of painting a Pandemic map onto a baking sheet. There might be a more practical method I haven't thought of.
The other idea that occurred to me was adhesive. For certain types of game piece, an attractive option is replacing them with tabbie-sized Post-it notes. For certain other types of game piece (like player tokens that have to be visibly unique and moved around often) sticky tabs don't work as well.
What's the best method for preserving the physical state of pieces on a game board?

Get a custom table with a recessed playing area and a "dining topper" such as those sold by boardgametables.com - the felt surface should help keep things from sliding around too much.

I would probably take a picture instead of trying to keep all the small pieces in place.

Use an acrylic or polycarbonate overlay designed to fit over the game board, with fitted slots that the individual pieces fit in.
One example is an official expansion for Azul called "Crystal Mosaic."  The overlay itself is shown below:

Here is the overlay in use:

An overlay isn't going to solve every possible scenario, but in my anecdotal experience, the main thing here (which is not exclusive to long gaming sessions) is that someone accidentally jostles the board or table and pieces move.  This overlay may solve that.  Plus, it is apparently cheap enough to manufacture that the above Azul expansion is being sold for about 10 US dollars at time of writing.
This answer assumes nothing about copyrights associated with such a solution - if the plan was to market such a thing as Azul's publisher did (in 2020)

I think that would still be subject to pieces moving around if the table gets bumped or if cats sit on the board as in the question.

This is a very attractive approach, but the answer would be much more helpful if it provided suggestions for applying the technique to other games.

@JoeW I feel like this solution could be (almost) cat-proof if you combined it with laying a towel over the board when it isn't in use.

@JoeW I can only assume that the design philosophy of Crystal Mosiac was, "don't let the perfect be the enemy of the good."  on Amazon, they market it as a solution "to keep tiles from being accidentally bumped out of place."@ryan-veeder Unattended cats at the gaming table are as unsolvable an issue as unattended kids

It seems to me a bump against the table could still knock things out of place with that setup. In my opinion I don't think that is for keeping things in place long term but more for making it easier to keep things lined up while playing also as Ryan Veeder said this is a setup for a fairly specific type of game and game pieces which won't work for a lot of games.


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Why does Tales of the Arabian Nights have the victory condition it has?
In the setup for Tales of the Arabian Nights, each player secretly chooses a victory condition: a number of Destiny points and a number of Story points that together add up to 20. When you have enough points, you can return to Baghdad, reveal the numbers you picked, and attempt to claim victory.
I don't have any problem with this mechanic—Tales isn't exactly hyper-competitive, so one way of deciding that the game is over is as good as another. But it seems arbitrary and complicated, in a way that's somewhat out of character with the rest of the rules. I've never felt any need to change it, but I always mutter: why do they do it this way?
Has the designer made any statements about the rationale for these rules? Failing that, is it demonstrable that less complicated rules wouldn't serve the game as well as the printed version?

Other games, such as Careers, also have this mechanic. Such Victory Conditions have the effect of increasing replay value, by increasing the number of possible strategies for victory.
Considering that such a mechanic is easily understood by children as young as 10, perhaps even a bright 8 or 9, the additional complexity is truly minimal.

The precedent in Careers is sufficient explanation, although it implies another question: How the heck are you supposed to employ a strategy in Tales?

@RyanVeeder Some skills lend to story rewards more than destiny rewards, some do the reverse, so picking higher story or destiny when you pick your starting talents is strategy.


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Monopoly Deal Discarding Extra Cards
What happens if a player doesn't discard the extra cards (more than 7) at the end of his/her turn and non of the other players catches that player?
But they do later...
1. When others have started their turn?
2. When it's the player's turn again who didn't discard, but the other player catches the extra cards then?

I'm not sure what you mean by 'catches'  to me that sounds you think its the other players responsibility to stop cheating. Checking the rules from here and here (I couldn't find a copy of official game rules on a quick search)  It reads that a player is not allowed more than 7 cards.  This is more commonly called a 'hand limit' in other games.
There isn't anything that says other players have to 'catch them'  to enforce a rule.  Nothing says you can have more than 7 cards if no one spots them.  This could be because either a player is cheating or more hopefully just made a mistake.
Its impossible to give a definitely answer about what happens in this game as its not covered in rules.  What I would suggest is to if possible just apply the hand limit as soon as error is noticed.  If this would give a player an unfair advantage then maybe discard at random although that could be unfair.   The links above say the came has a quick start guide?  I assume this mentions the order to do things on a turn including the hand limit?  Many games come with something like this and its a good idea to use it to follow you turn.  Say out loud to other players that you are discarding help each other and remind each other of rules mistakes happen less often.

I also couldn't find anything in the offical game rules or starter guide. It could be that the player is cheating or has honestly forgot. Therefore I feel the other players should keep a check. When caught the play should discard as per the rules. If one full round goes by and he is caught at the END of his next turn (when someone is just reviewing what all he played etc) then there's is anything one can do, and resume normally.

All players helping each other monitor rules and hand limits in all games and finding a way to carry on as best they can is probably the best option for all games.  Mistakes do happen and the best thing is just to find away to carry on that wont break a game.


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Delayed Action?
In the card game Mille Bornes, there is a point bonus for "Delayed Action":

Additional bonus if trip is completed after all cards have been played from the draw pile (Delayed Action) ... 300

If I draw the last card then complete my trip on the same turn, do I get this bonus?
When this situation occurred in a recent game the other players argued the rule means the draw pile must be empty when the turn begins. I don't understand how it could mean that and would like a clear explanation.

From the rules,

A hand ends when one side or the other completes a trip of exactly 1000 miles, or when the cards in the draw pile are exhausted. In the latter case, players must play out or discard in turn the the remaining cards in their hands.

It's clear to me you get the Delayed Action bonus if you enter "the latter case". However, the rules are quite ambiguous as to when "the latter case" is entered.
I don't have any reason to believe the player drawing the last card doesn't play out their turn normally, so I agree with your opponent. To me, the above means

A hand ends when one side or the other completes a trip of exactly 1000 miles, or when the cards in the draw pile are exhausted. If there are no cards to draw, instead of taking turns as normal, players must play out or discard ...

The wording from the scoring summary you quoted even supports that. The bonus is only granted for a win "after the play", not "after the draw". This same wording is found earlier in the rules too.
In short, there's nothing special about the turn in which the last card is drawn. It's winning on one of the turns after (when running on fumes) that's dramatic and point worthy.

But there are still many cards which have not been played. If that's your interpretation then doesn't the win have to be the very last card?

No, not at all. I have no idea why you would think that.

So you can just wait until your next turn instead then. Especially if you know the other players can't win before then. Alrighty.

That's perfectly valid, yes. Keep in mind that even though your opponent might not be able to win, they could still play something that prevents you from moving.


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How Many Standard Attack Modifier Cards?
I am trying to verify that most or everything came in a Gloomhaven box. However, the rule book has its count for Attack Modifier Cards at 457. I was disconcerted to see I only had 145, until I realized each class has its own stash. I don't love the idea of opening every class, counting everything, and summing them up. What is the correct number of standard cards not specific to any class?

As a newcomer to Gloomhaven, I suggest you familiarize yourself with the FAQ. See also The Gloomhaven Rules Quiz for both the quiz itself, but also the "Basic Monster AI Questions" PDF. Finally, this app saves soooo much time.

145

4 base decks of 20 cards for players.
1 base deck of 20 cards for monsters.
10 Bless cards.
10 Curse cards for players.
10 Curse cards for monsters.
15 -1 cards for players.

Each base decks consists of the following cards:

1 x2
1 x0
1 +2
5 +1
6 +0
5 -1
1 -2

The 1st printing didn't have separate Curse cards for players and monsters. I don't know if the total count was the same or not.

The following are the class-specific Attack Modifier cards (including Forgotten Circle):

6 BRU:+1 cards
1 BRU:+1,Shield1S card
1 BRU:+3 card
1 BRU:r:DISARM card
1 BRU:r:MUDDLE card
2 BRU:r:PIERCE3 cards
6 BRU:r:PUSH1 cards
2 BRU:r:STUN cards
2 BRU:r:TARGET cards

1 TIN:+0 card
1 TIN:+0,TARGET card
2 TIN:+1 cards
2 TIN:+1,Heal2S cards
2 TIN:+1,IMMOBILIZE cards
2 TIN:+1,WOUND cards
1 TIN:+3 card
2 TIN:r:FIRE cards
3 TIN:r:MUDDLE cards

1 SPE:+0,STUN card
6 SPE:+1 cards
1 SPE:+1,CURSE card
1 SPE:+1,IMMOBILIZE card
1 SPE:+1,WOUND card
2 SPE:+2,FIRE cards
2 SPE:+2,ICE cards
1 SPE:r:AIR card
1 SPE:r:DARK card
1 SPE:r:EARTH card
1 SPE:r:LIGHT card

1 SCO:+0 card
1 SCO:+1 card
2 SCO:+2 cards
4 SCO:r:+1 cards
1 SCO:r:INVISIBLE card
2 SCO:r:MUDDLE cards
2 SCO:r:PIERCE3 cards
4 SCO:r:POISON cards

3 CRA:+1 cards
2 CRA:+1,IMMOBILIZE cards
2 CRA:+2 cards
2 CRA:+2,MUDDLE cards
1 CRA:-2 card
2 CRA:r:AIR cards
4 CRA:r:EARTH cards
2 CRA:r:PUSH2 cards

1 MIN:+0 card
2 MIN:+2 cards
2 MIN:+2,ICE cards
4 MIN:r:+1 cards
1 MIN:r:DISARM card
2 MIN:r:IMMOBILIZE cards
4 MIN:r:MUDDLE cards
3 MIN:r:PULL1 cards
1 MIN:r:STUN card

1 SUN:+0 card
2 SUN:+1 cards
1 SUN:+2 card
4 SUN:r:+1 cards
4 SUN:r:Heal1S cards
4 SUN:r:LIGHT cards
1 SUN:r:STUN card
2 SUN:r:Shield1S cards

3 QUA:+0,Refresh cards
2 QUA:+1 cards
2 QUA:+2 cards
4 QUA:r:+1 cards
3 QUA:r:MUDDLE cards
2 QUA:r:PIERCE3 cards
1 QUA:r:STUN card
1 QUA:r:TARGET card

1 SUM:+0 card
5 SUM:+1 cards
2 SUM:+2 cards
1 SUM:r:AIR card
1 SUM:r:DARK card
1 SUM:r:EARTH card
1 SUM:r:FIRE card
6 SUM:r:Heal1S cards
2 SUM:r:POISON cards
2 SUM:r:WOUND cards

2 NIG:+1 cards
2 NIG:+1,DARK cards
2 NIG:+1,INVISIBLE cards
2 NIG:-1,DARK cards
2 NIG:r:CURSE cards
2 NIG:r:Heal1S cards
6 NIG:r:MUDDLE cards
1 NIG:r:TARGET card

1 PLA:+0 card
4 PLA:+1 cards
3 PLA:+1,AIR cards
2 PLA:+2 cards
2 PLA:r:CURSE cards
2 PLA:r:IMMOBILIZE cards
3 PLA:r:POISON cards
2 PLA:r:STUN cards

2 BES:+1 cards
2 BES:+2,FIRE cards
1 BES:r:+1,DISARM card
2 BES:r:+2 cards
2 BES:r:Heal1S cards
2 BES:r:STUN cards
4 BES:r:WOUND cards

1 SOO:+0,STUN card
1 SOO:+1,DISARM card
1 SOO:+1,IMMOBILIZE card
1 SOO:+2,CURSE card
1 SOO:+2,POISON card
1 SOO:+2,WOUND card
1 SOO:+3,MUDDLE card
2 SOO:+4 cards
3 SOO:r:+1 cards
4 SOO:r:CURSE cards

1 DOO:+0,STUN card
6 DOO:+1 cards
1 DOO:+1,IMMOBILIZE card
1 DOO:+1,POISON card
1 DOO:+1,WOUND card
1 DOO:+2,MUDDLE card
4 DOO:r:+1 cards
2 DOO:r:TARGET cards

1 SAW:+0,Refresh card
2 SAW:+1,IMMOBILIZE cards
2 SAW:+2 cards
2 SAW:r:+2 cards
2 SAW:r:Heal3S cards
1 SAW:r:STUN card
4 SAW:r:WOUND cards

4 ELE:+0,AIR cards
4 ELE:+0,EARTH cards
4 ELE:+0,FIRE cards
4 ELE:+0,ICE cards
1 ELE:+0,STUN card
1 ELE:+0,TARGET card
1 ELE:+1 card
2 ELE:+1,PUSH1 cards
1 ELE:+1,WOUND card
2 ELE:+2 cards

3 BEA:+1 cards
2 BEA:+1,IMMOBILIZE cards
2 BEA:+1,WOUND cards
2 BEA:+2 cards
2 BEA:r:EARTH cards
6 BEA:r:Heal1S cards

2 BLA:+1 cards
1 BLA:+1,AIR card
1 BLA:+1,DARK card
1 BLA:+1,EARTH card
1 BLA:+1,LIGHT card
2 BLA:+1,POISON cards
2 BLA:+1,WOUND cards
1 BLA:+2,MUDDLE card
4 BLA:r:Heal1S cards

2 DIV:+1 cards
1 DIV:+1,Heal2A card
1 DIV:+1,Shield1A card
1 DIV:+2,CURSE card
1 DIV:+2,DARK card
1 DIV:+2,LIGHT card
1 DIV:+2,REGENERATE card
1 DIV:+3,MUDDLE card
2 DIV:+3,Shield1S cards
2 DIV:r:CURSE cards
2 DIV:r:Heal1S cards

"r" indicates a Rolling Modifier. "S" (on Shield and Heal cards) means "Self", while "A" means "Ally".

Thanks for adding the class specific counts too! Now I can verify as I go.

Gloomhaven comes with 145 non-class specific Attack Modifier Cards.
These include:

(100 cards) Five Standard Attack Modifier Decks.

Each is composed of 20 cards. (Source: Page 5, Gloomhaven Rulebook)
Four of them are for player characters (labeled 1-4).
One is the monster deck (labeled "m").

(10 cards) Ten Bless cards.

These get shuffled into Standard Attack Modifier Decks due to a variety of effects.

(20 cards) Twenty Curse cards.

These are technically two decks as of the R1 Errata -- one 10 card deck for cursing players, and one 10 card deck for cursing monsters.

(15 cards) Fifteen -1 cards.

These are inserted into Standard Attack Modifier Decks when equipping items that introduce them as a penalty.


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Guillotine: Action cards on the field
Small arguement for the game Guillotine. In the instructions it states that at the end of the day you keep all action cards in hand, and you keep all nobles in your play area. The question now, is do you keep action cards that you have played that effect the end of the game (such as +1 to all red nobles), or do they discard at the end of the day?

I understand the confusion because the rules don't explicitly say it but logically:
You should also keep all action cards that are in the play area because they effect the points at the end of the game. If you discard them each end of day, then they are worthless in the first two days of the game. And that ruins a large part of the game.

I suppose you could play in a way where the action cards that effect points only affect the day they were played, so that you add up your points each day before discarding them. That could be an interesting variation but that is obviously not the original game because the rules do state that action card points are added at the end of the game:

When the third day is over, each player counts up the points on his or her noble cards...and any action cards that might add to or subtract from the point total.

Since it never says to add up the action card points before that, then we must assume they are held on to until the end of game.


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Magic: the Gathering, EDH/Commander - Official Rules List?
Where are the official rules for playing EDH/Commander, including the banlist? An EDH-specific rules question recently arose in my play group, and I couldn't find a definitive answer (the question has since been answered).
There's this question that specifically refers to the banlist, but how do I find the official rules list? Specifically, this is for regular Commander, not 1v1/duel Commander.

The rules for Commander can be found in the Comprehensive Rulebook section 903. The comprehensive rules are officially published by Wizards here. The banlist for Commander can be found in a section of the official Banned and Restricted list. Rule 903.1 indicates that MTGCommander.net is also an official source for information about Commander, and both the banlist and a summary of the rules can be found there.

The official WotC Commander Format page actually links to MTGCommander. Those are the official rules of the format for multiplayer commander.
To clarify from a previous answer, the so-called "Partial Paris mulligan" rule has been dropped in favour of the new Vancouver mulligan rule. You can see that in the changelog. That also references that "the first mulligan is free", as stated in the Comprehensive Rules:

800.5. In a multiplayer game, the first time a player takes a mulligan, he or she draws a new hand of as many cards as he or she had before. Subsequent hands decrease by one card as normal.

Elder Dragon Highlander is a Magic: The Gathering variant which provides a way of encouraging casual, interactive games with a low barrier to entry while still requiring good deck building skills. It can be played 1-on-1 but is usually multiplayer.
This page details the official rules common to most groups. Local groups often play with house rules, but this consensus version exists so that players know what to expect if they join an edh game outside their local play area. In particular, after-hours EDH games at Pro Tours and Grand Prix use these rules.
Deck Construction Rules
Players must choose a legendary creature as the "General" for their deck.
Players may choose any legendary creature as their general. Two players in the same game may choose the same General, and other players may include that card in their Deck even if it's not their General. Generals are subject to the Legend rule just like any other legendary creature; multiple copies of the same creature (whether General and non-General) will all be put into the graveyard (or command zone) as a state based effect.
The General is the principle around which an EDH deck is built. It is more easily available than other cards in the deck, and EDH decks will ususally want to leverage their General's strengths in their plans. It is not, however, guarenteed to be available at every point in the game so EDH decks should be able to function without it for a time.
The General's mana cost defines what colour of mana symbols may appear on cards in the deck.
Coloured mana symbols which may appear in an EDH deck are restricted to the colours appearing in the General's mana cost. Lands whose type includes swamp, island, plains, forest and/or mountain (e.g.: basic lands, shocklands, dual lands, Shadowmoor special-basics, etc) DO contain the corresponding mana symbol(s) as per CR 305.6. As such, they may not appear in a deck unless the General is of the corresponding colour(s).
While Hybrid mana symbols may be played with either colour mana, they count as both colours. As such, they may only be played with a general which is ALL of the hybrid mana symbols' colours.
Basic land words (swamp, forest, etc) in the text box of a card do NOT represent a coloured mana symbol. They are not restricted to generals of the same colour.
A deck may not generate mana outside its colours. If an effect would generate mana of an illegal colour, it generates colourless mana instead.
An EDH deck must contain exactly 100 cards, including the General.
With the exception of basic lands, no two cards in the deck may have the same english name.
EDH is played with vintage legal cards, with two exceptions:
cards are legal as of their set's prerelease
Shahrazad is legal for play in EDH
Play Rules
The start of game procedure for EDH is as follows:
Players announce their choice of General and move that card to the command zone.
Players may then sideboard if the optional rule for sideboards are being used.
Each player draws a hand of seven cards.
Players may mulligan, using the modified "partial paris" method (detailed below)
Being a General is not a characteristic[MTG CR109.3], it is a property of the card. As such, "Generalness" cannot be copied or overwritten by continuous effects, and does not change with control of the card.
If a player has been dealt 21 points of combat damage by a particular General during the game, that player loses a game
While a General is in the command zone, it may be cast. As an additional cost to cast a General from the command zone, its owner must pay  2 mana for each time it was previously cast from the command zone.
If a General would be put into a graveyard or exile from anywhere, its owner may choose to move it to the command zone instead.
Players begin the game with 40 life.
Generals are subject to the Legend rule; they will be put into the graveyard or command zone at the same time as any other Legendary creatures with the same name.
The official rules are complied here http://www.dragonhighlander.net/rules.php
Partial Paris Mulligan rule
Because EDH games are long and usually not played in multigame matches, EDH uses a modified mulligan rule designed to aleviate mana-light hands without significantly increasing the odds of finding individual cards. This is also known as the "Brittany" mulligan rule.
In turn order, players may
exile (face down) some or all of the cards in their hand.
Each player then draws one less card from their deck than the number they exiled.
Players who exiled at least one card may return to step 1 and repeat the process, drawing one less card each time.
Players shuffle all exiled cards into their deck.
Banned List
The banned list can be found here http://edh.truespace.ca/EDH_Forum/viewtopic.php?t=261
Got this from from https://www.mtgsalvation.com/forums/the-game/commander-edh/196120-edh-rules-and-faq

I appreciate the thoroughness of your answer, but it's not exactly what I'm after: I'm not looking for the rules themselves, I'm looking for where the official rules are located.

https://magic.wizards.com/en/game-info/gameplay/rules-and-formats/rules   section 903. Commander  Also ban list is here: https://magic.wizards.com/en/game-info/gameplay/rules-and-formats/banned-restricted

This entire answer is copied and pasted from the linked forum post, without even an attempt at proper formatting. You should extract relevant portions, summarize where appropriate, and indicate what parts are quotations with quote blocks.

Also, some of the information here (namely the Mulligan rule) is completely outdated.


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Do you score for all smaller words within the long one in the same move in scrabble?
If the word you play in scrabble contains several smaller words, do you score all of them, or just the longest? E.g. TRAIN as TRAIN+RAIN+IN, or just TRAIN? Cannot find it clarified in any rules...

This was the last time I played Scrabble, back in the 90's.  I was playing with my hypercompetitive grandmother, who was scoring Roman numerals this way.  When I pointed out I didn't think that was allowed she yelled at me that she'd been playing Scrabble since before I was born and so I couldn't tell her how to play.

just train as one word. however, if a player made "rain" an original word, collected points for that word, and added a t for "train" in the next move, THEN they would take credit for both.

You only score each tile in a word once, where a word is the full sequence of letters added or modified in each column or row by your tile placement.
If you check the scoring example in the official rules from Hasbro (click on the Scoring tab, then scroll to the bottom), it will show you how it works.
The first word in their example is HORN which gives a total score of 14. This is reached by adding 4 points for H, plus one point each for O, R, & N for a subtotal of 7. Because it is the first word played, it is given a double word score bonus for a total of 14.
Note that there is no additional score for the O and R making a subword of OR.
This can also be seen in the second word placed where FARM only scores a 9 - the subwords of FAR and ARM cannot be counted as part of the total score.
Note that a tile you place that creates or modifies words on 2 or more columns or rows can be counted multiple times (as in turn 4 of the linked example where adding O & B creates three words - MOB, NOT, & BE) but this is the only way that a tile can be scored multiple times on the same turn.

I would add that if a tile in the newly played word also forms a crossing word, that tile is scored for both the played word and the crossing word that was formed (occasionally, there will be multiple tiles doubly scored this way).  Word and letter bonuses are scored both ways only if the tile on the actual bonus square forms the crossing word, and of course bonuses (double letter, double word, etc.) are scored only on the turn in which tiles were played on them.

@ZeissIkon That would basically be rewriting the entire scoring rules. I will clarify my answer (later when I have the time to do so properly) to make it a little more accomodating of multi-word placement, but a lot of what you suggest is beyond the scope of the question.

The short answer is no.
The long answer is that you play a single word, the fact that there are other words contained in that word doesn't matter, there is only one word you created, the full and final word. If you did gain points for subwords, then pluralizing a word would gain you effectively double the score. (-1 for the s)
There are very rare cases where a tile creates multiple full legal words, if the tiles you placed in the word you are creating modify an existing word in a legal way (most commonly pluralization) then and only then do you score for multiple words in a turn.

"Rare"! I don't think so. Roughly half the plays I make create at least two full legal words.


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Texas Hold'em: The flop vs Turn/River
In Texas Hold'em, the first common cards dealt are the three cards known as the flop. Then we proceed to deal the Turn and the River, which are single cards. Is there any specific reason why we first deal multiple cards and then single cards? How would the game be different if we dealt all five common cards separately, and have a betting round between each?

The flop eliminates a majority of reasonable players because they have such a low probability of winning anything. With a dripfed board, they would stay for longer and commit more, thereby being priced in despite having no real chance.
It avoids early big bets by high pocket pairs and (suited) connectors that have caught something from the first single card or the first two community cards, from taking a pot based on the luck of their pocket.
Overall, it turns a game based on luck into one that allows for substantial skill, without eliminating player choice in how to play the game.

I'd upvote this more than once if I could.  Excellent answer.

It limits the number of betting rounds to four. There are bets before the flop, after the flop, after the turn, and after the river. If we had bets after each card, there would be more like six bets. Also, there are two "cheap" bets (pre and post flop) and two "expensive" (double) bets after the turn and river. The idea is to allow people to see most of their cards before the two big bets. Assuming no raises, the ratio of bets is 1, 1, 2,2, after seeing two, five, six and seven cards.
In seven card stud, there are two small bets after seeing the third and fourth card, and three large bets after seeing the fifth, sixth, and seventh cards. The ratio of bets is 1, 1, 2,2,2, after seeing three, four, five, six and seven cards.
The structure of cheap, versus expensive bets somewhat reduces the luck factor, for people that didn't get great first two cards (three in stud). Allowing people to see five cards (in hold em) before making more than one bet puts a greater premium on skill over luck.

Pot control
5 betting rounds is just too much betting.  Where we now have push fold charts at 20-30 bb would have push fold charts at 40-60 bb.
Narrow the range
It would take away from playing a drawing hands like 89s as you are facing too many bets before you know where you stand.  Even play 66 is not profitable as now you are 1/25 to hit rather than 1/8.  If you do hit on card 1 they did not so 1 street of value is gone.
Get value
If you smash the flop it already hard to get 3 streets of value.  Get 5 streets of value would be near impossible.
Multi street bluff is harder
Firing on 3 streets is already expensive.  5 streets would take at like 200 bb behind.  Would be forced to play hands fast (not see many rivers).
Hand is not defined
Your hand is not really defined until the flop.  No speculative hands get there until the flop.  Some interesting math comes into play by the flop.

I get there is another answer it would make it more a game of skill but I disagree.  So much more play would just be by charts.  Play a more narrow range is not good for pros.  If I don't hit on card 1 I kind of need to release unless holding an ace.
It would be so much more expensive I think less amateurs would play or they would play the penny games on line.  Pros want fish on the live table playing $2/$4 and that drop way down.
Would not be good for the game in any way in my opinion.


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Axis & Allies 1941: Can stranded defending fighters land in a friendly territory with hostile planes?
Playing Axis & Allies 1941, I encountered a situation concerning stranded defending fighters that I have a hard time adjudicating with the rulebook.
The problem is that an aircraft carrier is attacked and destroyed, and a defender's fighter plane remains as stranded. It is unclear to me whether or not an adjacent friendly territory is a valid safe landing place for that plane, when at the time it is occupied by a hostile plane (the attacker's) which afterwards has to leave during non-combat move.
How do I adjudicate this situation according to the rules?
A good answer would either present adjudication step by step, deducting it from the individual rules used; or it would cite official clarification for this situation.

The stranded fighter can land safely, no combat is triggered and the attacker's plane returns home
When attacking and destroying an aircraft carrier, defender's fighters may remain in play after combat (if the attacker cancels the attack before all fighters are destroyed or no more units remain that can attack each other). These fighters are then considered stranded and, at the beginning of the Non-Combat Move Phase before the active player's moves, get the chance to move 1 space to a safe landing place. A safe landing place is either a friendly carrier or a friendly territory.
The rules define three states for territories: friendly, hostile and neutral. A territory is considered friendly when it is under your or your allies' control and control changes by capturing territories. This implies that a friendly territory with hostile planes "attacking" it is still considered friendly.
Furthermore, air units are allowed to attack hostile territories in the Combat Move Phase but it cannot be captured without land units there. The rules do not state anything forbidding that air units attack an empty hostile territory, even though it cannot be captured and no actual combat will happen. In the Non-Combat Move the air units have to return to friendly territory.
All combats triggered in the Combat Move Phase and all movements in the Non-Combat Move Phase are considered to happen simultaneously. Order of execution for individual events within these phases is irrelevant.
The result of this situation: before the attacker does any of his non-combat moves, the defender moves his stranded fighter. As the adjacent territory which is currently occupied by a hostile air unit, is still considered friendly, it is allowed to move there and be safe. No combat is triggered, as per the rules the defender's move into and the attacking plane's non-combat move out of the territory happen simultaneously and they never actually meet. The attacker's plane returns home, the defender's fighter remains in play.
This interpretation has been confirmed by Kevin Chapman, one of the game's developers, at the BoardGameGeek Forums.

A hostile plane cannot "occupy" a friendly land territory (as of the beginning of your turn); only a hostile land unit can do that. The hostile plane can "bomb" your land zone, that is attack units that were stranded there. But ultimately, it has to leave to refuel. Moreover, since it is flying "in" from another zone, its "window" over your friendly zone is much shorter than yours (as the Germans found out at the Battle of Britain).
Basically, your fighter can stay over the friendly land area longer than the hostile bomber, and land when it leaves, even on the "same" turn.


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Pixel Tactics - static stat modifiers and damage calculations
Recently I was playing a game of Pixel Tactics and I had a scenario where a card in my middle row was giving the card in front of it +2 life.  The card in front had damage counters from a previous wave equal to its original life, but, due to its supporter, was still alive.
If I moved the card in front to a different position (say, in front of my leader), would the lethal damage cause it to be defeated instantly because the damage occurred in a previous wave?


text:
if you are in safety zone and you get a backwards 4, do you move backwards and then forwards?
if you are in safety zone and you get a backwards 4, do you move backwards and then forwards?

I'm not completely clear on what you are asking... it sounds like a duplicate of the linked question; but if you are asking something different, please clarify. Do you mean move backwards now, and on a later turn move forwards again?


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Is it possible to use ritual effects to pay for Propaganda?
Is it possible to use ritualistic effects, i.e. instants that add mana to your mana pool, to pay for combat costs incurred by Ghostly Prison, Propaganda, etc.?
For example, if I have two copies of Battle Hymn in my hand and my opponent has a Propaganda, I could generate the two mana per creature needed to attack with all of my creatures. But if I cast them during Beginning of Combat, my understanding is that the mana drains before I can pay as I declare attackers. Is this correct, or am I missing something?

Not normally, since you can't cast spells in the declare attackers step until after the creatures have been declared as attackers, and the pool normally empties when moving from step to step. This means that the cost to attack must be paid before you can use the mana producing spells inside that step. However cards like Kruphix, God of Horizons, Upwelling or Omnath, Locus of Mana(green only) would prevent the pool from emptying, allowing you to use the mana in a later step.

This is what I expected, but wanted to make sure I understood the rules correctly. Thank you!

No, you cannot use rituals or other instant speed effects that gain mana to pay for Propaganda or similar effects, and your reasoning for why this would be the case is correct.
First, as mentioned, rule 106.4 says

When an effect produces mana, that mana goes into a player’s mana pool. From there, it can be used to pay costs immediately, or it can stay in the player’s mana pool. Each player’s mana pool empties at the end of each step and phase.

So, any mana you produce in the Beginning of Combat step would empty from your mana pool before you declare attacks. Then, the Declare Attackers step is actually multiple sub-steps. The first step, described in rule 508.1, is to declare your attackers. This includes activating mana abilities and paying costs for declaring attackers (508.1i,j). After that, the active player gains priority, which would be the first time they have the opportunity to cast rituals or similar spells during the declare attackers step.
So, there is no opportunity between the mana pool emptying at the end of the Beginning of Combat step and paying to declare attackers during the Declare Attackers step to cast rituals.


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Recommended strategies for Mercante in Fiera?
Last night I played a traditional Italian card game, Mercante in Fiera (Merchant at the Fair) with a big group of friends. While everyone had a great night, as the auctioneer was very entertaining, and everyone was very committed to having fun, the game itself struck me as being mostly random luck. I couldn't figure out a reasonable strategy, and in the end chose to be very conservative in order to minimise my losses. Some players lost huge amounts of money, having bought as many cards as possible. Of course, the fun in bargaining and bidding for cards has its value, but if you are focused purely on winning, what is the optimal strategy?
In our group, there was around 20 players, who paid €5 each for the first card, and then everyone bid on the remaining 20 cards. The final pool was over €500, divided into 5 prizes (ranging from €25 to €250). I would estimate that the average price paid during bidding was €20 per card (the prices rose as the game went on and people became more excited).
What strategy recommendations would people make?

There are only two strategic decisions over which a player has control: the amounts bid in auction and the quantity of cards traded. A winning strategy requires paying less on average for one's cards than (all) the other players; and then having a bit of luck.
So, based on whatever patterns seem to be discernible in the merchant's average choice of how many cards to auction off, only bid less per card than the expected pot divided by the total number of cards (40 or 55 depending on edition) in play. Posture all you want to mask this strategy, but adhere to it strictly.
Second, never trade down on the quantity of cards held. Again, mask this strategy by posturing with and to the other players, but adhere to it strictly. You want to posture as an "active trader", in hopes of occasionally leveraging another player's superstitions to trade-up on card quantity; but don't expect  doing this more than once or twice an evening.

Thanks! So, basically you need to keep a running total in your head of the average card price, and never exceed that.


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Sacrifice a blocking creature or sacrifice an attacking creature
I want to use Ayli, Eternal Pilgrim in my black and white aggro deck. Would it be possible if someone attacked me and I blocked with a less stronger creature causing it to die but can I activate Ayli, Eternal Pilgrims ability at this same time so a I get something out of it? I’m also asking the same thing about if I used one of my creatures to attack and it got blocked by a higher creature or got countered by a spell there it would die but can I use the sacrifice ability at the same time?

Check out this question for more info: https://boardgames.stackexchange.com/q/4332/15514 . Short answer, you can either have the creature deal and receive damage then die, or you can sacrifice it Ayli, not both.

Also note that a creature on the battlefield can't get "countered" because it's not a spell. It can be confusing because the same card represents a few different things: when you cast it from your hand it's a spell that is summoning a creature, but once it's on the field it is the creature.


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Monopoly Deal - JSN Card
If you steal a property and your opponent doesn't play their JSN card at that time, then you lay a matching property down to make a complete set, and then your third card is to charge rent - can your opponent then decide to use his JSN card to take his property card back, or is the JSN card only good to get out of paying the rent at this point?

The time to play "Just Say No" is when the action they want to "Say No" to is happening. If they didn't stop you taking their property, and you're now claiming rent, then they can only "Say No" to the rent.
(This is assuming that you didn't rush through all three plays so quickly they didn't have time to react.)


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What happens if I give double strike to a creature right after the combat damage is dealt?
The rules sais

702.4b If at least one attacking or blocking creature has first strike (see rule 702.7) or double strike as the combat damage step begins, the only creatures that assign combat damage in that step are those with first strike or double strike. After that step, instead of proceeding to the end of combat step, the phase gets a second combat damage step. The only creatures that assign combat damage in that step are the remaining attackers and blockers that had neither first strike nor double strike as the first combat damage step began, as well as the remaining attackers and blockers that currently have double strike. After that step, the phase proceeds to the end of combat step.

So the scenario is the next:
If I attack with a normal creature, let's say is a 1/2, and it's blocked by another 1/2, the combat runs normal, attackers -> blockers -> combat damage.
Right after the damage is done, I play a Boros Charm just after the damage is dealt, giving my 1/2 double strike until the end of turn...

Will it create a second combat damage step?
If so, will all the creatures do damage again? (because as said in the rule The only creatures that assign combat damage in that step are the remaining attackers and blockers that had neither first strike nor double strike as the first combat damage step began)
Or no other creature do damage because they are not the remaining creatures?

No, this won't create a second combat step. We only check for double strike (and first strike) at the start of the combat damage step, and not at any other time during. This means the rules have already determined there won't be another combat damage step. Here's what they saw:

Do any creatures have first strike or double strike? No.
Let's do regular damage then move on to end of combat.
End of combat.

So once combat damage has already started, it's too late to give anything double strike. You'll need to give your creatures double strike during the Declare Blockers step, before moving on to combat damage, so that the rules will see something has that ability and create that extra combat damage step at the start.

The relevant rule from the comprehensive rules for the combat damage step, emphasis added:

510.4 If at least one attacking or blocking creature has first strike (see rule 702.7) or double strike (see rule 702.4) as the combat damage step begins, the only creatures that assign combat damage in that step are those with first strike or double strike. After that step, instead of proceeding to the end of combat step, the phase gets a second combat damage step. The only creatures that assign combat damage in that step are the remaining attackers and blockers that had neither first strike nor double strike as the first combat damage step began, as well as the remaining attackers and blockers that currently have double strike. After that step, the phase proceeds to the end of combat step.

Side note (thanks to @Malco): In a different scenario, you could give double strike to a creature that already had first strike, once you get priority just after first strike damage has been dealt. This creature has already ensured that a first strike combat damage step exists, and giving it double strike allows the creature to deal damage in the regular combat damage step as well. This works since this is one of the points we do check for double strike in the middle of the step. From the end of the quote above, emphasis added:

[If we created a first strike combat damage step, then] the only creatures that assign combat damage in [the regular combat damage step] are the remaining attackers and blockers that had neither first strike nor double strike as the first combat damage step began, as well as the remaining attackers and blockers that currently have double strike.

On a related note, if you give a creature first strike after the first strike combat step would it do zero damage that combat?

@TimB It would still deal regular damage, since it falls under "the remaining attackers and blockers that had neither first strike nor double strike as the first combat damage step began". I was wondering what was with that weird wording, sounds like they already thought of exactly that. :)

The secret is to give them Last strike on the regular combat damage step!!

@corsiKa or Triple Strike.


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Dead of Winter exile PvP attack
In Dead of winter, the rules state that an exiled player can use food cards to increase an action die value by one.
When attacking another survivor, you must have a dice value at equal or greater to your attack stat to initiate an attacl. You must then roll again and achieve a roll higher than their attack stat in order to wound them.
My question is, can this +1 increase be used only on unused action dice before the attack? Or can the +1 be added for instance to the attack roll aagainst their attack stat in order to guarantee a wound?

The rules don't specify this, but you would not want to do that anyway, since you seem tot have the pvp attack rule wrong:

If a survivor is chosen [to attack], roll the spent action die. If the result is equal to or less than the chosen survivor's attack value, ...

This makes sense, since the better a survivor is at fighting (low attack value), the harder it is to beat them (you have to roll lower).
So you would not want to increase the result of this die.
But suppose you wanted to do so anyway, I think you still can't. The rulebook refers to playing food cards when exiled to increase action die results, but if you are not exiled, you can only increase unused action dice as an action. I would assume that when exiled, this action becomes 'play a food card' instead of 'consume one food from the colony', but the effect is unchanged. The action die you roll for the attack is considered spent at that point (you used it to initiate the attack), so you can't increase it this way anymore. Also, spending food is an action, and it seems reasonable that you can't use one action in the middle of another (eating in the middle of a fight does not sound like a good idea)

The rulebook explicitly says that playing your food cards for better rolls is possible even when the player is exiled:

The exiled player cannot spend food tokens to increase
  his action die results, but may play food cards to increase
  an action die result by 1 for each food card played rather
  than carrying out the effect listed on the food card.

(from page 14, "Exile" section.)


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Finishing a turn on a previously discovered room, draw icon card?
Do you draw an icon card for a previously discovered room if you end your turn there? Or are icon cards only taken when the room is discovered? I could not find it clarified in the rule book

You only draw when you first discover a room
From Page 5 of the Second Edition rules (emphasis mine):

A room may have a card symbol on it. The first time you discover a room with a card symbol, you must end your move in that room and draw the appropriate card.

There is no rule instructing you to draw cards during subsequent visits, therefore you do not draw it on subsequent turns.
Given that you cannot move after drawing a card, not following this rule would mean that adventurers would only ever be able to move through one room per turn (except for those without a card symbol). That would be a slow, plodding game that would mess with lots of haunts.

Re "That would be a slow, plodding game", And it would result many early haunts as omen rooms are visited multiple times.


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Question about pawn moves
In the board game "Sorry!", can I use a 7 card split moving one pawn 6 spaces around the board and 1 pawn 1 space from "Start"?

No you may not use a 7 card to move a pawn from start as only a 1 or two card can do that.
Rules

7: Either move one pawn forward 7 spaces -- Or split the forward move between any two pawns. Notes 1. You may not use a 7 to start a pawn. 2. if you use a 7 to get a pawn home you muse be able to use the balance of the move for another pawn.


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Dominion Nocturne Necromancer and Pixie rules
I think I know the answer to the problem but I have some doubts and I need confirmation or an explanation to which I can point when this happens again.
I have the following scenario in Dominion Nocturne.
The following to 2 cards are in the game:

Pixie

+1 Card / +1 Action / Discard the top Boon. You may trash this to receive that Boon twice.

Necromancer

Play a face up, non-Duration Action card from the trash, leaving it there and turning it face down for the turn.

in a previous turn, one of the players played and trashed Pixie. So now there is a pixie in the trash.
In my turn, I play Necromancer which allows me to play a card from the trash. I choose to play "Pixie".
Now the question. Can I trash the trashed pixie to receive the next boon twice? or I just get the "1 card 1 action" and I discard the top boon?
Based on what Adama wrote as an answer on a different question ....

The golden rule in Dominion is follow the card instructions as much as possible. [...] However, you may not be able to execute some conditional effects, e.g., trash the card

I conclude that I cannot trash an already trashed card, but there is a chance I got this wrong. So...which is it? can I or I cannot trash a trashed card?

I might post an answer later, but Dominion Strategy Wiki addresses this exact combo here. Since Pixie checks that it was trashed, it wasn’t so you wont get the boon.

I read that sentence but I did not make much sense. The wording on it is not the "happiest" specially for a non native English speaker (or at least for me).

From http://wiki.dominionstrategy.com/index.php/Stop-Moving_rule#Official_Rules:

If a card isn't where the effect would expect it to be, or has moved away from there and then back, it can't move the card.

Played cards expect to be in play; they can't move themselves if they aren't.

Because the Pixie is not in play, it cannot trash itself (and you cannot get the Boon).

The definition of trashing is to put a card into the Trash pile. Necromancer states: leaving it there. That means, you can't trash the card since it is never yours/ in your hand.

this is what I suspected.

Being "in your hand" is irrelevant: if the Pixie is played by March, it can be trashed.

That is why I wrote yours. March is using the discard pile and not the trash pile

Honestly wish you could trash the Necromancer to do the effect


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When can a guild be cloned based on Olympia's B stage 3?
I think I know the answer here, but I just need confirmation.
Main question
Olympia B third wonder stage allows you to clone a guild from a neighbor. Does this happen before or after the military conflict of age 3?
I assume "after the military conflict", but....
What spawned this question
Scenario:
Player 1 plays with Olympia B and build all 3 stages. He has 3 military shields after the last turn in age 3.
Player 2 (neighbor of Player 1) has build Courtesan's guild (that allows you to clone a leader from a neighbor) and has 4 military shields after the last turn in age 3. 2 of these shields come from a leader (not the cloned one though).
Dilemma:
If player 1 clones the the Courtesan's guild and then clones the leader that gives him 2 military shields (making him have 5 shields in total), does he win the military conflict of age 3 or he clones it for nothing because the cloning takes place after the military conflict?

Rules (page 9) say:

for the third stage, the choice of the Guild is made at the end of the game, when counting points. The player totals the victory points as they had built that Guild.

Since Courtesan's guild gives no victory points, selecting it will be no use for the player. Note that, Olympia B was designed at a time when all guilds were effective only during scoring.
See here for more discussion.

"Since Courtesan's guild gives no victory points, selecting it will be no use for the player"...I don't know about this. Doesn't this let you clone a leader that could give your points? Anyway...that's not relevant for my question. The main question was, is the guild cloned before or after the military conflict of the third age. Thanks for your response.

@Marius I think you are right. I could have used better wording.


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Specific case when Berenice is in play
I have the following scenario in a 7 wonders game played with leaders and cities that can be interpreted in at least 2 ways.
Alice has in play the leader "Berenice" (From the moment she enters play, each amount of coins taken from the bank is increased by 1. This increase is limited to one coin per turn).
In Age A, turn T, Alice plays a card that would allow her to take 3 coins (not counting Berenice's effect) from the bank.
In the same age, same turn, Bob plays a black (cities) card that makes every other player discard 3 coins.
Let's assume that Alice does not want to take debt tokens instead of discarding the coins.
This makes the total coin delta for this turn for Alice be 0 (zero).
Question:
Does Alice get 1 coin from the bank because of Berenice or not?
Same question but rephrased.
Taking coins from the bank and discarding coins are 2 separate actions in the same turn, or there is only one action "take / discard" depending on the sum of the coins to be taken minus the sum of coins to be discarded?

The Cities rules say about "Debts" (on page 4):

Important: monetary losses are always resolved at the end of a turn, after players have played their cards, possibly having paid for trade and/or obtained money...

So Alice takes 4 coins (3 + 1), and then she decides whether she wants to

pay 3 coins,
pay 2 coins and take 1 Debt token,
pay 1 coin and take 2 Debt tokens, or
take 3 Debt tokens.

I do believe each action should be separated and she should get her bonus coin.
It says she increases any amount taken from the bank by one. With examples from the rulebook "Discarding a card gives 4, tavern 6...."
So any building gain is automatically increased. If the building says "Take 3" you automatically read that as 4 when you have Berenice. The delta doesn't matter.

Thanks. So, for the question "Does Alice get 1 coin from the bank because of Berenice or not?" the answer is "Yes, Alice gets 1 coin from the bank."

@Marius I do believe so. Even if the building gave only 1 gold I believe Alice would get 2 and then have to pay 3 (or take debt tokens)

sorry for changing the tick to the other answer, but it has reference to the rule book.

@Marius no need to apologize, it is the better answer. I voted it up :)


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Rules about Stevie
I am playing 7 wonders with leaders and some other extensions to extensions. One of them includes Stevie Wonder.
Stevie does this:

With his help, you can build a stage of your Wonder of the World; instead of paying the required number of resources, you pay the corresponding number of coins and slide Stevie under the appropriate stage face up.

But I have some questions about how Stevie interacts with other cards.

For example I'm playing with Rhodos B. First wonder stage costs 3 stones.  Before the first age I put in play the Leader Imhotep (allows you to build wonder stages with one less resource than needed). Before the second age, I put in play Stevie.

Does my first wonder stage cost 3 coins (as to stevie's rules)? Or 2 because I combine the effect of Imhotep with the effect of Stevie?

I'm in age 3. One of my neighbors played Stevie (age irrelevant). In the current round I play Guild of Courtesans (you can clone one leader from one of the neighbors for free). Let's say my next wonder stage costs 3 resources.

Can I clone Stevie?
If yes, does this mean I have to pay nothing for my next wonder stage or I still pay 3 coins as I would pay if I played Stevie myself?
Bonus: If I have to pay for Stevie and I have Imhotep in play (as in question 1) do I pay 2 or 3 coins?

I'm playing with Abu Simbel Side B. Before Age 1 I played one leader. Not important which one. Before age 2, I played Stevie, built my first wonder stage, paid 3 coins and sacrificed the leader I played before age 1. During Age 2 or 3 I build the second wonder stage.

Can I sacrifice Stevie?
If yes, do I get 6 points for this (2 * 3 coins I paid for Stevie)?
Bonus: What If I played Imhotep in the first age and Stevie only cost me 2 coins (this may not be valid depending on the answer for question 1), do I get 4 points only for sacrificing Stevie?

Note: Some of these scenarios have actually spawned during our games. Some Are just wild ideas based on the scenarios that actually happened.

Firstly it would help to put all these as separate questions.  The first 2 specific examples are covered in the rules though under "interactions"

As for Abu Simbel.  The rules say he is placed face up in wonder when its built.  This would mean moving him afterwards to the side of the Abu Simbel where buried leaders are placed would be impossible as it would 'unbuild' the wonder.
As bonus info this question there is this question on BGG where the designer covers issues of points awarded for Abu Simbel where the cost of Leader varies per age.  but as the 'cost' for Stevie can easily be calculated then that is the cost.

Ah. thanks for the picture. I didn't find that. This clears the fog. and I didn't want to put these as separate questions to not look spammy since thy are all tied together. Thanks for the "bonus" also. Apparently we've been playing this wrong.

To be honest when I read the question I came to conclusions that you would apply everything and get the best result as well.  Its when I looked up rules to back up by answer I got that instead!  There is also this ( https://boardgamegeek.com/thread/1000597/does-stevie-interact-abu-simbel ) BGG answers which claims you cant put Stevie in Abu Simbel but to be me the timing of that doesn't make sense and its backed with with 'spoke to designer' rather than a post from Antoine Bauza himself.

actually thinking about it more it makes no sense that you can kill Stevie in Abu Simbal as he rules say to leave him face up.  You wouldn't then be able to move him to the section on the side of the wonder after he has been used.  I will edit answer to reflect this.

On BGG, somebody said the designer says you can't bury Stevie.


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Euchre - Calling a a renege after the hand is closed before the next deal?
Can you call a renege after the hand is closed before the next deal??

Once the hand is closed the renege is much harder to verify, once the cards played that round have been returned to the deck. A renege should be called immediately when it is noticed. Taken tricks should be kept separate from each other, organised so the order they were taken is clear, this allows a renege to be verified and not rely on everyone's memory.


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How do two copies of Irencrag Feat interact?
The recently released preview card for ELD, Irencrag Feat reads:

Add seven {R}. You can only cast one more spell this turn.

Would this wording allow me to play another Irencrag Feat, which would in turn allow me to play one more spell this turn?

You cannot cast another spell after casting the second Irencrag Feat
While I don't think the Golden Rule quoted by Arcanist Lupus in his answer necessarily applies here, simple logic will get you there:

You cast the first copy, which creates a condition "Condition A" that says you can only cast one more spell this turn
Trying to cast the second copy, you need to check existing conditions, namely "Condition A". Since you haven't cast another spell this turn, you cast the second copy, which creates a condition "Condition B" that says you can only cast one more spell this turn
Trying to cast another spell, you need to check existing conditions, namely "Condition A" and "Condition B". You haven't cast another spell since "Condition B" has been established, but you have cast another spell since "Condition A" has. This means that casting another spell would necessarily violate "Condition A", so you won't get to cast another spell this turn.

Keep in mind that cards like this will usually receive rulings upon or close to their release for clarification.

No.
You may not cast any other spells after the second Irencrag Feat because it would violate the restriction imposed by the first Irencrag Feat.
Contrary to your claim, Irencrag Feat doesn't allow you to cast any additional spells.
Instead, each Irencrag Feat imposes a restriction, and the restriction from the second Irencrag Feat doesn't erase the restriction imposed by the first. All restrictions must be obeyed.

No, it would not.
One of the Golden Rules of Magic is that "can't" trumps "can"

101.2. When a rule or effect allows or directs something to happen, and another effect states that it can't happen, the "can't" effect takes precedence.
  Example: If one effect reads "You may play an additional land this turn" and another reads "You can't play lands this turn," the effect that precludes you from playing lands wins.

This is a similar example.  Your first Irencrag Feat says that you can't cast any spells this turn after the next one you cast.  If you cast a second one, the first Irencrag will prevent you from playing any more cards even though the second one would allow one more card.

I am not sure if this is correct because I don’t think it’s been determined for sure if 101.2 applies to anything that doesn’t use the word “can’t”.

See related comments on this question and this one. I think you’re probably right, just not sure.

101.2 doesn't apply because no effect directs something to happen that another effect says can't happen. Specifically, you have two effects that say something can't happen. 101.2 would come into play if an effect instructs you to cast a spell (e.g. Electrodominance), but that's not the case here. A better answer would contradict the OP's claim that the second IF "would in turn allow me to play one more spell this turn" instead of repeating it. IF doesn't allow spells to be played.  [I have now posted said better answer :)]  @Gendolkari