text:
Internal DVD drive not working
I have a Macbook Pro 15 inch, mid 2010 with High Sierra installed (10.13.6)
Recently I tried to put a DVD into the internal DVD drive, but nothing showed up. It made some weird sounds as if it was trying to get the drive running, but it didn't help. So I tried to eject the DVD, but the eject button didn't work as well. I couldn't eject it from Finder either. I tried restart the computer while holding the eject button, but it didn't work. Then I just dropped to get it out.
But whenever I open my computer, it says the weird sounds as if it is trying to run the DVD. It runs 3 times, and then it stops.
Is there any way to fix this?

The words "Then I just dropped to get it out" are unclear. Is the DVD now still inside the drive, or were you able to remove it?

Are you trying to see f you can get the DVD  to read or to force eject it?

No, it is still inside my computer, and I tried to force eject it. Another thing is that when I open up DVD player it gives me this error: There was an initialization error. A valid DVD drive could not be found. [-70012]

Try Command-E as well.  It's also possible you've got two disks jammed in there.  I've removed them with careful use of long needle nose pliers and a bit of force.  Your other option is to remove the drive, disassemble it and remove the disks.

Yep. All mechanical drives, (particularly CD/DVD drives and old-fashioned hard drives), have a limited lifespan and wear out. 8 years is pretty good actually. I'd recommend the opposite though — just get yourself a $20 external USB CD/DVD drive, and then (when you're ready for it, replace the internal DVD drive with a secondary SSD (I assume you've already replaced the HDD it came with... right?) You have a RAID in your laptop!
(Not referral links):
https://www.amazon.com/LG-Electronics-Portable-External-GP65NB60/dp/B00ODDE33U/
https://www.amazon.com/Optical-SuperDrive-Adapter-Unibody-Macbook/dp/B004FM4UGE
The repair is fairly easy to do yourself:
https://www.ifixit.com/Guide/MacBook+Pro+15-Inch+Unibody+Mid+2010+Optical+Drive+Replacement/3074

Where did you see the OP had RAID in his laptop?

Thank you for your very great answers, but a long time I found the DVD sticking a little bit out, and then I pulled it out of the drive :)

Unfortunately it sounds like your optical drive bit the dust.
The fact that it tries to read a presumably good DVD and can't and you get an error opening DVD Player AND can't get the disc out of the drive speaks to likely needing a new drive.
You will need to take it in for repair which will likely mean a replacement optical drive.


text:
Back up personal files when TimeMachine is set to backup other files
I run my own samba server on my home desktop. I use MAC for work and personal business. TimeMachine is set up to back up my work folders (on the other, office samba server). I want to back up my personal folder on my SMB server. I connect to this server using finder (connect to server option).
Is there a way to manually backup (e.g. copy-paste) my personal folder in a way rsync does it, e.g. by only updating those files that have been changed?
I don't have good internet at home, and transferring 100Gb of data all the time seems unnecessary.
Alternatively, is there a way to set up timeMachine to backup 1 set of folders to 1 server, and another set of folders to another?
Thanks,
Mikhail

If you use rsync it will automatically copy changed data only.

@nohillside, thanks, but it only work in terminal, not in finder

Finder doesn't support incremental backup, it's either rsync or a GUI-based solution to run rsync in the background. What makes it important to have a Finder-based solution?

Its more convenient. But I guess creating a bash script is also an option. Thanks

Carbon copy clone in effect can act as a. Front to r sync

source: Stack Exchange

license: Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/

sort: votes


text:
OS X 10.12.16: "URLs with the type 'afp:' are not supported"
I am mounting an AFP volume hosted on a FreeBSD server using netatalk. I am able to successfully mount the volume using mount_afp. However, I am mounting it for the purposes of Time Machine, and it seems that unfortunately mount_afp changes the permissions of the mount directory to 700, root:wheel so that the user is unable to access it.
So I am trying to mount the volume normally from Finder, unsuccessfully, with the above error code.
The URL I am using to mount it is
afp://user:pass@server/VolumeName

Are you using netatalk (deprecated) or netatalk3?  That said.... since Apple deprecated AFP, I've only used SMB2 for all my shares on BSD.

It was [cmd]netatalk[/cmd]. It was an old installation so didn't think to try to upgrade. Thanks

I have discovered that AFP is now deprecated, and that I will need to turn to other mechanisms to provide the remote Time Machine. I presume this is the reason for this error message.

AFP is deprecated, but should still work. TM still uses AFP on Mojave.

I see. Well, the system did give the error about the unsupported scheme, so I guess something is wrong. But not a concern of mine now. Thanks

all_licenses: Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/


text:
Is it possible to use R on an iPad?
I am new to coding and I am attempting to learn about R using online resources. I am wondering how to use R from an iPad when I’m away from a desktop/laptop (or if this is feasible at all)?
I also don’t know much about operating systems, or the differences between a Mac and an iPad (particularly differences that would affect software installation). So I’m thinking it will be quite difficult for me to learn to use R from an iPad if it’s at all possible. But if someone else happens to have done it and is willing to post instructions, I would give it a shot.

Your question is basically:

“Is it possible to use R on an iPad?”

And the answer to that is a simple:
No.
While you are well intentioned in your post, from a basic operating system there is no way you can program on any iOS device since you won’t be able to ever selfie-install tools or get to the command line to install R to begin with.
Some might say you could do this by using the iPad to remotely connect to another machine—such as a MacBook or a Mac mini and such—but that is really not a solution. You would simply be remotely accessing a real computer in a kludgy way. If you want to use R, you need a real macOS computer… Or Windows… But you asked for Mac so I will say… Mac.

The sandbox actually allows much of what you say isn't possible. Also, I'll make an answer that explains how to use networking to get to an OS where someone might be more comfortable running R. Pythonista is one such app that installs an entire framework for data processing and runs very well on iOS for adding packages, interacting with the network (when it's available) and doing real work. Even data science work.

I’ll add some links to an answer here. I use a USB-C hub with my iPads and full wired keyboards. There are a handful of apps that really work well keyboard only. I don’t disagree at all with your main point  iOS is no way an open computer OS  without sandbox restrictions. Based on software needs, iPad won’t be the correct tool for many people. However, the list of things iPad can’t do is eroding and it’s far better than Macs for many things at this point.

Yes, for up to R 4.2.1, there is R Analyst.
Limitation: cannot install additional packages.


text:
Making 2013 Pro SSD work on another Mac - Computer closes after entering the password
My 2013 Pro Mac is broken and I extracted its SSD and mount on an another Mac. The opening screen opens and I see the background image that I have used before and correct username on the screen. However, when i try to enter by supplying the password the computer closes down. What might be the problem?
Note : The computer used for recovering SSD is 2013 model mac pro, the same with the one the ssd belongs to.
UPDATE :
I can't reach the details here as I am not trying directly but contacting the dealer. What I can say is that
(1) I don't remember having filevault enabled,
(2) the opening screen where you choose between different users or 'guest' user opens without a problem,
(3) the computer directly powers off without prompting any errors when tried to enter through main user (my user),
(4) guest user opens and run without a problem.
(5) When tried to reach the same SSD through windows using disk recovery programs, they recognize the SSD as passive state and no further process can be performed,
(6) it is not recognizable by prograrms such as TransMac.

"Opening screen" doesn't specifically describe anything nor does "Closes down" (powes off? Crashes? Rejects the login?); please describe exactly what you see during the boot process. It's important. If this is the disk encryption prompt, that's different from the user login prompt.
Were they both running the same version of MacOS? One possible explanation is that the machine you transplanted into isn't running a new enough BootROM, but there isn't really enough info here to troubleshoot with.
Can you boot into recovery mode? (apple-R immediately after power-on)

It's the normal openings screen where you normally choose between users. Powers off means that it actually shuts down without prompting anything. The SSD actually injected into the main SSD place of the Mac so it runs the same OS (I don't know how this mechanism works, If OSs are installed a different place other than SSD it might have been running a different OS) How to check the BOOTRoom? Ill check to boot innto recovery mode.

I'm sorry, but you're incoherent - and not answering my questions (namely, "please describe exactly what you see during the boot process. It's important.") If English is not your primary language, you may be able to get support on one of the non-English StackExchange sites mentioned here: https://meta.stackexchange.com/questions/13676/do-posts-have-to-be-in-english-on-stack-exchange

Details really are important here. Can you add a picture (use a smartphone if necessary) of the screen you enter username/password? Did you have FileVault enabled on the disk? Can you boot into Recovery Mode and analyze the system from there? Also, please have a look at https://apple.stackexchange.com/help/how-to-ask and https://apple.meta.stackexchange.com/questions/3387/ask-different-question-checklist for further ideas on how to improve the question.

In addition to that: Please don't delete questions and repost them, you will loose all clarifying comments that way. It's better to edit questions into shape if necessary.

I updated and added notes to my question.


text:
Quickest way to share an iOS app
I have a game app installed on my iPhone by the name of Odyssey. One of my friends likes it, and asked me to share it with him. I asked him to search by the name on the App Store, but he was unable to do so.
How do I share the app with him? Is there a quick and simple way to do so?
I am using an iPhone 8 and my friend is using an iPhone 7.

@Chloe I'd bet he just doesn't know how to spell "odyssey".

Update (September 2019)
Some of the information provided in the answer is no longer valid (specifically discussed in point #1), due to the changes introduced in the subsequent releases of iPhone hardware and iOS 13 software. They are discussed in the latter part of the answer.
The original answer applies well to iPhone equipped with 3D Touch hardware capability, and running iOS 12 or earlier supported version of iOS. Here's a list of iPhone that shipped with 3D Touch hardware:

iPhone 6s/6s Plus
iPhone 7/7 Plus
iPhone 8/8 Plus
iPhone X
iPhone XS/XS Max

Original Answer
It is not possible to share an app directly from one iPhone (iOS device) to another. What can be done instead is to share the App Store link for the app. Your friend can then install the app from the App Store onto their iPhone. There are different ways you can share the App Store link with your friend. I'll list them down, starting with the simplest and quickest one.
1. Using 3D Touch Quick Actions:
iPhone 6s and newer (excluding iPhone XR), namly 6s Plus, 7, 7 Plus, 8, 8 Plus, X, XS, XS Max include a feature called 3D Touch. It gives users an additional mechanism to interact with the iPhone by using pressure to peek into and pop open content on iPhone. This is a hardware feature built into the display, and is not available on any other iOS device (iPod touch, iPad mini, iPad and iPad Pro).
You can use use Quick Actions to easily and quickly share the link for the app with your friend. On your iPhone, go to the Home Screen, locate the app, and apply a little pressure on the app icon until the iPhone gives a haptic feedback and reveals the Quick Actions menu like this:

Now simply tap on the Share Odyssey item to reveal the Share Sheet. You can AirDrop the link to the app to your friend, which will directly reveal the app in the App Store on your friend's iPhone. He/She can simply proceed to install it.

To use AirDrop, you'll need to ask your friend to enable it on their iPhone. AirDrop can be turned on by going to Settings app → General → AirDrop and tapping on Contacts Only or Everyone. AirDrop can also be turned on from the Control Centre (revealed by swiping from the bottom of the screen on the model of your and friends iPhone).
This is the quickest, easiest and the most newbie friendly way to share an app from one iPhone to another.
2. From your App Store purchase history:
Open the App Store app on your iPhone. Now tap on your profile picture shown at the top right. Tap Purchased to see the list of all the apps that you have bought and are linked with your Apple ID. Make sure All section is selected at the top.

Now locate the app in question from the list. You can also use the Search facility if your list of apps is lengthy. Once you have filtered down to locate the app, tap on the app icon to reveal the App Store page. Now tap on the blue circular button with three dots to reveal the action sheet. Tap on Share App... item to open the Share sheet. You can choose the usual sharing options to share the app with your friend (AirDrop, Messages etc.).

3. Searching on the App Store:
Quite often, the display name of an app (the one shown below the app icon) differs from the actual name. Searching the App Store by the display name shows the app in the results in most cases (you may have to scroll through in some cases). To search for the app, open the App Store app, tap on the Search item and enter the app display name in the search bar.

Once you have located the app under the search results, simply tap on the icon to reveal the App Store page for the app. Now tap on the blue circular button with three dots to reveal the action sheet. Tap on Share App... item to open the Share sheet. You can choose the usual sharing options to share the app with your friend (AirDrop, Messages etc.).
4. Searching on the Web and sharing the link:
You can also search by the app name or the display name on Web using a query similar to "app name + iTunes link" (Odyssey + iTunes link in this case). This is sometimes more efficient than searching on the App Store. (There's no right or wrong approach, the search logic for App Store and Web search work differently).

Now once you have the link for the app, you can share it by any suitable means as discussed above with your friend. When searching on Web on your iPhone, tapping on the link opens it directly in the App Store app.

The app in question is a beautifully designed game called Alto's Odyssey. You can share the following App Store link for the game with your friend:

https://itunes.apple.com/app/altos-odyssey/id1182456409

Update
3D Touch, a hardware feature has been subsequently been removed from the recent generation of iPhone. The functionality is simulated using a software based feature called Haptic Touch. Instead of detecting a physical pressure on screen, long tap is detected, and the device provides a Haptic feedback using the build in Taptic Engine in iPhone 6s and later (barring iPhone SE). Here's a screenshot from an iPhone 7 running iOS 13 with Haptic Touch in action for sharing App Store link to an installed 3rd party app.

Long press was earlier reserved to make the app icons wiggle, so that users can easily uninstall or rearrange apps, move them into folders and rename folders. As Haptic Touch has taken over it in iOS 13, the options are now made available in a similar menu as peak menu shown earlier. While earlier, an app could only display a share command, now every 3rd party apps shows at leat two commands, namely, Rearrange Apps and Share App.
Performing either a 3D Touch or a long tap on the devices that have the 3D Touch hardware, presents the same peek context menu.
iPhone XR, introduced in the year 2018 was the first iPhone to get rid of the 3D touch hardware, while the concurrently introduced iPhone XS and XS Max retained it. 2019 line of iPhone, namely, iPhone 11, iPhone 11 Pro and iPhone 11 Pro Max all got rid of the 3D Touch hardware. They all rely on Haptic Touch to offer the similar functionality as discussed in point #1 above.
One of the earlier iPhone models, namely iPhone SE lacked 3D Touch hardware but supports running iOS 13. Since Haptic Touch is a software based feature, it received the similar functionality, which was not available previously.

P.S.: A quick and informative guide on difference between Haptic Touch and 3D Touch can be found here:

Haptic Touch vs 3D Touch: What's the Difference?

You can only share the link to the store, not the app itself


text:
macOS counterpart of Windows startup batch file
My friend pranked me by creating a batch file which opens a YouTube video and added it to the startup folder, so that the batch file launches every time I log in. This is what he wrote in the batch file:
TIMEOUT 1
start /min https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kob0G2hE8IY

On top of that, he scheduled the batch file to run every 10 minutes using Task Scheduler.
This is done on a Windows PC. So my question is, how do you do the same thing on a Mac?

The macOS counterpart is an AppleScript. You can create an AppleScript using Automator app and configure it to run upon system startup by going to System Preferences → Current User → Login Items.
To create the AppleScript, launch Automator.app. Under Library (in the left pane), select Utilities. From the centre pane, drag and drop Run Apple Script action into the pane shown towards right. Now enter the following script into the editor:
tell application "Safari"
    tell window 1
        set current tab to (make new tab with properties {URL:"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kob0G2hE8IY"})
    end tell
end tell

This is how the final result will look like:

Now save the workflow by selecting File → Save... command. When saving change the File Format to Application.
Now go to System Preferences → Users & Groups, select your user under Current User and click on the Login Items tab. Click on the + button shown at the bottom and select the app saved in the last step. This will add the workflow that we created to the list of items set to be opened automatically when you log in.


text:
Battery draining quickly in iPhone
I have an iPhone SE running iOS 12 and the battery is running out quickly,
How can I found out what is draining the battery and how can it be prevented?

To see battery usage by app go to Settings -> Battery and you can see the battery usage by  app for last 24 hours of last 10 days. Then you can see what is using the battery.
About the battery usage on your iPhone, iPad, and iPod touch
You can click battery health to check the battery health to see if it needs replacing.
Alternatively you can try updating to the latest software. Later software updates improve battery life performance.
From this Apple Support article:

Plug your device into power and connect to the Internet with Wi-Fi.
Tap Settings > General > Software Update.
Tap Download and Install. If a message asks to temporarily remove apps because iOS needs more space for the update, tap Continue or
  Cancel. Later, iOS will reinstall apps that it removed.
To update now, tap Install. Or you can tap Later and choose Install Tonight or Remind Me Later. If you tap Install Tonight, just plug your
  iOS device into power before you go to sleep. Your device will update
  automatically overnight.

If your phone is low in battery you can preserve is by turning on low power mode in battery settings which turn off some features.
Use Low Power Mode to save battery life on your iPhone


text:
Solutions for typing backslash on MacOS with Japanese keyboard in specific app
This is an obscure issue so I don't expect anyone to know a solution specific to my app. Rather I'm wondering if maybe there is some OS level option I can set.
In any case, a Japanese keyboard does not have a backslash character. Back in the 80s the yen character occupied the same codepoint as the yen ¥ symbol so you'd just type that instead. Now of course with unicode both symbols exist and the yen key inserts ¥ by default.
Apple's Japanese IME  has an option to insert backslash instead of yen

And so does Google's Japanese IME

And this works everywhere except my text editing program. I've reported the issue but of course it could take them a while to fix it. As a short term solution they suggested recording a macro in the app that inserts a backslash and assigning it to the yen key which worked for editing text. Unfortunately it doesn't work for various dialogs in the app like the search and replace form where I type regular expressions and need to enter backslash often.
In the meantime I wondering is there some other creative solution I can do at an OS level?

What app are you talking about???

You could make a custom keyboard that uses another key for backslash, with
http://scripts.sil.org/ukelele


text:
Use shortcuts with key strokes on secondary level
Sometimes I see pre-defined shortcuts in macOS where one part of them are using the second level of keys, e.g. stroke "/" of the key 7. As everybody knows, at least this secondary level can be accessed by the shift key.
Well, coming from this pattern, I was a bit confused about such kind of pre-defined shortcuts: command+option+/. My initial assumption to utilize these kind of shortcut was to use modifiers like this command+option+shift+7, which wasn't working well unfortunately.
My assumption is that I have a fundamental misunderstanding in using secondary key strokes in shortcuts. Can you help me out with this?

Where exactly did you run into this issue, and with which keyboard layout? I justed tested Cmd-+ in Safari, had to type Cmd-Shift-1 on the Swiss keyboard to get the page to zoom as expected (Cmd-1 switches to the first tab).

I have seen this in Xcode. The keyboard I have is German. So you mean it could be reasoned by keyboard layout differences that are not considered in the pre-defined shortcut definitions?

I just tested it here: To trigger "Toggle Comments" I need to press Cmd-Shift-7 (as / is Shift-7) as expected. Do you have some other software running which captures keystrokes?

Hm, interesting. Honestly, I don't know what other software is capturing exactly that keystroke (already exited all other obviously open or running software), but if it working for you, it might be an issue with Xcode itself (overlapping pre-defined shortcuts that block themselves)...


text:
Missed calls appearing on two different phones
One of my phones is an iPhone SE and another an iPhone 5S.
When you go to phone.app -> Recents the same calls appear on both devices.
They are both on the same Apple ID so this is probably why.
In iCloud Settings I found no option to disable this.
How can this be stopped without changing Apple ID's on one device?

You have the obvious solution, why not apply it?

@SolarMike What do you mean? I said I don’t want them to be on separate accounts. And I don’t want to disable it

What I meant is clear. Both phones are doing what is required by showing a missed call.

@SolarMike and my question is how can I disable it

Do they both have the same phone number?  I thought 'Rececents' only listed calls to a specific phone number.

@fsb different phone numbers

The only fix is to log out of iCloud drive on the secondary device.  I did some more research on this and everything said this is the only way to fix it.

@fsb ok thanks, could you turn it into an answer with references?

The problem is caused by sharing the same Apple ID on both devices.
According to this, this, and this sites, you can either

Create a separate Apple ID for one of the phones, or
Turn off Settings -> (Your Apple ID) -> iCloud -> iCloud Drive:

Will turning off iCloud Drive have any other effects?

This may give you an idea : https://support.apple.com/kb/PH19386?locale=en_US


text:
How can I run a YouTube video in Picture in Picture mode on iOS?
On iOS, while watching a video in YouTube app, when I go to the Home Screen, the video stops playing. I found no setting to enable it.
I know it is available for Android, but is there a way to do so in iOS? Is there any setting, or a 3rd party app that I can use?

iOS enables PIP easily, there are standard ways to classify all video and unless the web site takes active measures to disable PIP it just works.
Youtube has continually taken steps to disable and remove PIP functionality on iOS, but there are a still few ways to bypass their efforts to control how you consume their video content and watch Picture in Picture:

Bite the bullet and subscribe to Youtube Premium (AKA Youtube Red). If you subscribe to Google Music, it is included. To watch PIP with Youtube Red, swipe down or diagonally across the video to minimize it. Plays in bottom right corner.

Use an app to open and process the links. I found links to two, but can't vouch for either one. Including name of developer in case the location of link changes at some point:

Cornertube by Tiny Whale Pte. Ltd.
https://itunes.apple.com/US/app/id1073199994?mt=8 costs $2.99

Pipifier, made by Arno Appenzeller, can be found at
https://itunes.apple.com/app/pipifier-pip-for-nearly-every/id1160374471?mt=12
free app

Scriptable.app with this YouTube PIP script - both are free

A low cost, high polish app that does this is VidiMote

An alternative that needs no payment or extra apps is Safari in split view. This is a part of iOS and is documented at https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT207582.
How to use Split View:

Open an app. Swipe up from the bottom of the screen to open the Dock.

On the Dock, touch & hold the second app that you want to open, then drag it off the dock.

When the app opens in Slide Over, drag the dash icon down.

This question was answered a few years back at How do I play a YouTube video in the background on my iPad? but the solution doesn't work on iOS 10+.

I love scriptable and had to add that since it’s so very useful. Also, this is all about money and eyeballs with YouTube. PIP effectively blocks many of their ads and content until they inject that all in the video stream itself.

I found no setting to enable it.

This is not possible without a third-party application. YouTube have not added the capablility to iOS. You can suggest it to YouTube but Apple has nothing to do with it.

Is there any setting I can use or third-party app I can use?

There is an app called PiPifier. Link to download. This allows any video on the web to be played in picture-in-picture.
How to use it
When on a YouTube video on the web go to the share menu at the top-right:

Then click more:

Enable PiPifier:

Then when you are on a YouTube video on the web click run PiPifier:

Alternatively, you can subscribe to YouTube red or watch the video in split view:

Make sure YouTube is in the dock
Drag the icon to the right of the screen
When it opens drag down the dash icon at the top

NO DOWNLOADS, NO COST:
You can watch YouTube videos on iOS and iPadOS using picture-in-picture by watching the video at YouTube.com in Safari. Once you’re playing the video, hit the full-screen button. Once it’s in full-screen, there will be a PIP button in the top-left, just to the right of the close button (X).
It does not work as flawlessly as more normal uses of it, in my experience, but it does do the job quite well.

I found a way to get PiP on iPad.

Go to youtube.com in Safari and play a video
Press aA, and select request mobile
Press Full size in youtube (lower left rectangle)
Press the pip icon upper left

done

One more trick for watching YouTube picture-in-picture on iPhone is to play the video in Safari and use the new Safari PIP compatibility available in iOS 14.
How To:
-> Google search for a video.
-> Long-press it and select the 'Open in New Tab' instead of the YouTube app.
-> Access full-screen mode.
-> Swipe-up to enter PIP mode in iOS 14.
Apparently PIP mode will be available system-wide in iOS 14 and third party apps will be able to implement it too. More details available in this article.

I think what you're asking is how do do it with the YouTube app in iOS.. Not with browsers. There IS a way to do it. Here is a great 1 minute video that shows you how to set up the free workaround that also has some other cool features too.
https://youtu.be/pEpCyL8ky1M

Welcome to Ask Different and thank you for your answer. :) Unfortunately, just providing a link isn't very helpful as it may no longer work in future. If possible, it'd be fantastic if you could please edit your answer (there's an edit link below it) to include a summary of the content you're linking to? This will make your answer more self-contained and help preserve it for other users in future.


text:
What is the difference in weight between the minimum spec 2018 15" Macbook Pro and the maximum spec?
Apple's website lists only a single weight for a 2018 15" Macbook Pro
https://www.apple.com/macbook-pro/specs/

Weight: 4.02 pounds (1.83 kg)3
3: Weight varies by configuration and manufacturing process.

So with memory, storage, cpu and gpu maxxed out what is the difference in weight?

I doubt there’s any difference at all. Perhaps a few tens grams, but nothing that would change that it is about 1,8 kg.

There will be a difference -- you can't go from a 512GB SSD to a 4 TB SSD without adding chips -- but it won't be much.

@Mark yes, that’s what the additional tens of grams are for. Those extra flash chips really do not weigh much. CPU’s are the same weight no matter which CPU frequency, etc.


text:
External hard disk use
I have a question: when attaching my external hard disk to my Mac, there seem to be a little ghost that deletes my files.

Can anyone please give me some information on this, please note that I am not a Mac expert, I do use the maximum security allowed by Apple and my network but I have the feeling something is not right and would appreciate it very much if someone could help?

They look like cache files (files used by the system to store temporary data). These are normally safe to delete and it tends to happen automatically in the background. Nothing to worry about.

Well it appears that the files are cache files and are deleted regularly as part of keeping the drive clean and not cluttered with random thumbnails/logs/whatever other cache files are stored. Its pretty obvious from the entry that operation run is CACHE_DELETE so I wouldn't worry too much.
Also, from the image it says "category: daemon". If you are not aware, a daemon is a background process that takes care of small nitty-gritty things for you, like starting services, clearing unneeded caches, and many many more. You can utilise certain daemons to regularly run tasks for you like cron for example. Its nothing to be worried about and its vital to any operating system.
If you are suspicious of malware, you could regularly check the files on your drive by running du -sh every so often to see the space used on the drive. If there is space free that you did not delete, then it may be the case. There are many other ways to check for malware deleting files theoretically (antivirus, disk space, running processes etc) - but if you do have malware on there without your knowledge, then you have much larger problems than it deleting your cache for you :)

I use (and recommend to my clients) Malwarebytes to scan my Macs for malware. The software is free, and you don't need the real-time scanning, which you have to pay for.


text:
Removing Files after Successful Extraction unrar rm shopt globstar
shopt -s globstar
for f in **/*.rar; do
    dir=`dirname "$f"`;
    unrar e "$f" "$dir" && rm -frv "${f::-2}*";
done

From echoing out testing the rm command, the file is the correct path.  I don't receive any errors about an incorrect path or anything.  I know there are other methods to use find, but that would be pointless and use extra cpu cycles this should be working from everything I found.  Any ideas on how to use the rm command properly?

It should work with removing the double quotes:
shopt -s globstar
for f in **/*.rar; do
    dir=`dirname "$f"`;
    unrar e "$f" "$dir" && rm -frv ${f::-2}*;
done

Bash expansion of the star char * doesn't occurs inside quotes.
For example:
echo dir/*.rar might give:
dir/file1.rar
dir/file2.rar
dir/file3.rar

But echo "dir/*.rar" will give:
dir/*.rar

(rm command will try to delete a filename which contains literally a star character.)

Hey thank you so much!
I should have interpreted the output of the error by it not finding the filename/r* as a literal search for that.  I was just confused on the echo displaying it correct.


text:
Differences in path encoding between Mojave and High Sierra
I have a script (in R) where I specify the path to some data. The script ran on my computer's High Sierra. After updating to Movaje, I get "path non-existent" error messages so my script no longer runs.
So I:

Use the Terminal to go to the folder I want
Copy-paste the path from the Terminal to my R script. I see no differences between the two bits of text, but Mojave seems to see something. My old line doesn't run, the new one -copied from the Terminal- does.

I can work with this, but would like to understand, where could the differences be?

What exactly is this path??

"~/Dropbox/1_SUBFOLDER/2_SUBFOLDER/analysisElisa/ROIsAllToolboxes/"


text:
How can I map the Esc key to the Caps Lock key?
I would like to remap the Esc key to the Caps Lock key. How can I achieve this?

Before marking as duplicate, read well the question. There are already a lot of other questions asking the opposite thing to what I want to achieve.

So what have you tried so far, where did it not work as expected? And I assume we are talking about a Mac with a physical Esc key, not a Touchbar.

At the very least edit your question to include the macOS version

Also: Please edit the first question you've asked to add all the things you got asked to clarify: version of macOS, physical key, what you have tried etc. The question will then get put into the review queue for reopenings automatically


text:
Batch Reformat Date in Filenames
I am in need of a solution that will allow me to batch reformat/rename the date appended at the end of a filename and then move the date to the beginning of the filename. I'm adopting the ISO 8601 standard (yyyy-mm-dd).
After searching the web for a solution and tinkering with Automator, I haven't found a solution.
Example 1:
Current Filename: Statement 01-07-2019
Desired Filename: 2019-01-07 Statement

Example 2:
Current Filename: 01-07-2019 Statement
Desired Filename: 2019-01-07 Statement

The second example doesn't match the description in the question, which part is correct?

There are various options to mass rename files on MacOS:

Automator, Apple Script
Third-party Applications (Metamorphose2, Name Changer, Inviska Rename, A Better Finder Rename, Renamer, File Renamer, ...)
Terminal

I'll go with the terminal option here.

Install HomeBrew if you don't have it already.
From your Terminal, enter: brew install rename
From your Terminal, go to the folder where all your files to be renamed are
Enter the two commands below. The first one is for your Example1 case. The second one for your Example 2 case.

Note: Those two commands will not affect your file names. Their only purpose is to check.

rename -n 's/^([^""]+)( )(\d{2})-(\d{2})-(\d{4})(.*)$/$5-$4-$3 $1$6/' *

rename -n 's/^(\d{2})-(\d{2})-(\d{4})(.*)$/$3-$2-$1$4/' *

You should get results similar to:
'Statement 01-07-2019' would be renamed to '2019-07-01 Statement'

'01-07-2019 Statement' would be renamed to '2019-07-01 Statement'

After you checked everything is ok, remove the -n option to effectively rename your files:
rename 's/^([^""]+)( )(\d{2})-(\d{2})-(\d{4})(.*)$/$5-$4-$3 $1$6/' *

rename 's/^(\d{2})-(\d{2})-(\d{4})(.*)$/$3-$2-$1$4/' *


text:
Horizontal drag motion - How to disable?
I've already disabled the Swipe between pages option, but I still have this drag jitter...
Can I turn this off?

Edit: It's turned off and not swiping between pages, but I still have this drag motion. Looks like this is a normal macos behavior. Is there any way to change it?

I don't think this is a duplicate question... The suggested answer didn't solve anything

Why is still marked as duplicate? It's nothing to do with my question...


text:
Change default travel type maps
I have an iPhone running iOS 12. Is there anyway to change the travel type as I walk a lot so that it automatically gets walking directions where possible and shows travel times as walking times?

This can be changed in Settings -> Maps -> Preferred Transport Type.

Change it to walking or your choice of transport.
When you set your mode of transport it will automatically give directions for that transport type:

The type can still be changed manually if you are using another mode of transport but it will be set to your choice by default.


text:
iTunes stopped deleting movies and TV series
For as long as I can remember iTunes used to ask me, when deleting a TV series or movie, if I wanted to delete the file on the disk as well.
Now, the question no longer pops up and the files are not deleted.
Here are the settings:

How can I make iTunes delete the files themselves when I delete something from the library?

Have you confirmed whether movies are or are not being removed from disk regardless of the questions iTunes asked? You can look in ~/Music/iTunes/iTunes Media/ to check.

@Iain Yes I checked. Files are not removed (I have to delete them manually)

I've fixed some weird problems like this with iTunes in the past by backing up the database and then removing it, and iTunes rebuilds it. The instructions sometimes change between versions but this looks a lot like what I did the last time.


text:
10.6.8 Update Combo Failed Unknown Error
I recently received an old iMac 27" aluminum unibody core 2 duo (EMC 2309: 2009 model) that was having troubles with the graphics card after High Sierra installation. I was looking to set it up as a media-station/test-machine, and was thinking Snow Leopard would be perfect. I already have an old mac mini on my desk running MacOSX10.6.8, but rather than copying over my hard drive, I decided to do a fresh install. It was during the 10.6.8 Update Combo v1.1, after the install, that I encountered a problem. I found an identical thread: https://discussions.apple.com/thread/6883727 but there was no clear answer to the problem, and I did not want to go through hours of a slower-than-my-normal-internet-speed download from https://support.apple.com/kb/DL1399?locale=en_US
I already had saved a copy of the MacOSXUpdCombo10.6.8.dmg on the same drive with my 10.6.2 Install Volume, and the 10.6.2 install had run smoothly. I went to run the 10.6.8 update, only to get an installation failure with an "unknown error":

It turns out the MacOSXUpdCombo10.6.8.dmg available online is not quite the same as the one I had previously downloaded, the file size was slightly smaller, and the creation date later.

Is this simply a case a developer signature expiring, and publishing a rerelease? If so, Is my new MacOSXUpdCombo10.6.8.dmg also going to expire? It's just nice not to have to wait to re-download something from a crappy link for hours only to discover it timed out at less than 5%. I was hoping to make an install media for this, but it seams pointless if it's not going to work the next time I need it. Is there a way to get around installer expiration issues?

Set the date on the Mac back to to for example 1st of May 2012 using "Date & Time" in System Preferences. Remember to turn off "Set date and time automatically".
This will allow you to bypass the expiration check.
Remember to set the time and date back when you're done updating.

hey that seems to work!


text:
Does an iPhone battery drain faster in cold?
I have an iPhone SE and I have noticed the battery drainage is quicker when outside and in the winter.
I have heard some websites and people say that batteries drain faster in cold. Is this true?
I know another reason it could drain faster outside is because I’m using Cellular Data and not WiFi.
One quote I found:

When lithium-ion batteries are exposed to cold temperatures, their performance suffers. When cold, a phone battery can drain faster than normal, or it might say it has ample power remaining and then suddenly go dead.

My phone has recently saying it has ample power and then turns off like it said in the quote.
Is this true and is there an official statement from Apple?

Yes - run times are shorter when the battery is cold.
Apple has this to say: - https://www.apple.com/batteries/maximizing-performance/

When using your device in a very cold environment, you may notice a decrease in battery life, but this condition is temporary. Once the battery’s temperature returns to its normal operating range, its performance will return to normal as well.

On a technical level, the drain is what the device uses and that doesn't change with the temperature being low. The ability of the battery to produce current and voltage is impaired only while it's cold. The charge is still in the battery, just can't flow as fast. Think molasses, but less dramatic in the cold.
To be even more precise, it's not physics like molasses, but it's the actual chemical reaction providing power slows down in the cold to deliver less than enough current to power the device.
(Reference)


text:
Could not find videos taking space on iPhone
I am always running out of space on my iPhone (SE, 64Gb, iOS 12.1.2). I tried to managed everything managed via the "Settings > General > iPhone Storage" but there seems to be some media files I could delete.
When I connect my phone to iTunes, I can see that it is 10 video files, taking up more the 41 Gb of space, but impossible to locate them. I have no downloaded video on Netflix, Video, etc, ...
Screenshot from itunes:

Screenshot from the "Iphone storage" from the "Settings" on the iPhone

Any idea where these files could be? And how to delete them?

What does the storage screen on the phone itself show?

Same thing, with "media" instead of "video". And none of the listed applications below take that many space (the largest one being a game of 2Gb). I added the screenshot to the question.

The application list actually would be the interesting part :-) but if none of the apps uses more than 2 GB it probably isn‘t that important

None do... The largest one is 2Gb, then the next ones are all below 300Mb... And I clearly do not have enough application to make it up to 40Gb

it might be that your iTunes purchases of podcasts or videos are syncing to the phone and taking up space. Please check that and turn it off in iTunes preferences-> devices. and  in iTunes preferences->sharing and in iTunes preferences-> store.
do respond after all three trials .


text:
And yet another... corrupted partition table
I have an external hard drive that has two partitions and one of them is not being mounted. The one that is not being mounted has data I would like to recover. Right before the problem I had installed OS X Mojave on it but after once booting into it, on a reboot I just got a blank screen. So I restarted the mac and discovered that the partition itself cannot be mounted.
I have gone through a fair bit of article on this forum and elsewhere on this and I am going to give the information I think may be relevant. The disk in question is /dev/disk2
The output of diskutil list is:
/dev/disk0 (internal, physical):
   #:                       TYPE NAME                    SIZE       IDENTIFIER
   0:      GUID_partition_scheme                        *251.0 GB   disk0
   1:                        EFI EFI                     209.7 MB   disk0s1
   2:          Apple_CoreStorage Macintosh HD            250.1 GB   disk0s2
   3:                 Apple_Boot Recovery HD             650.0 MB   disk0s3
/dev/disk1 (internal, virtual):
   #:                       TYPE NAME                    SIZE       IDENTIFIER
   0:                  Apple_HFS Macintosh HD           +249.8 GB   disk1
                                 Logical Volume on disk0s2
                                 21851A15-0785-48A0-A736-0FEF2E06952B
                                 Unencrypted
/dev/disk2 (external, physical):
   #:                       TYPE NAME                    SIZE       IDENTIFIER
   0:      GUID_partition_scheme                        *1.0 TB     disk2
   1:                        EFI EFI                     209.7 MB   disk2s1
   2:                  Apple_HFS Untitled 1              300.0 GB   disk2s2
   3: 7C3457EF-0000-11AA-AA11-00306543ECAC               699.8 GB   disk2s3

The output of sudo gpt -r show disk2 is
       start        size  index  contents
           0           1         PMBR
           1           1         Pri GPT header
           2          32         Pri GPT table
          34           6
          40      409600      1  GPT part - C12A7328-F81F-11D2-BA4B-00A0C93EC93B
      409640   585937504      2  GPT part - 48465300-0000-11AA-AA11-00306543ECAC
   586347144      262144
   586609288  1366848848      3  GPT part - 7C3457EF-0000-11AA-AA11-00306543ECAC
  1953458136           7
  1953458143          32         Sec GPT table
  1953458175           1         Sec GPT header

The output of sudo hexdump -Cv -n 512 /dev/disk2s3 is
00000000  c0 eb e0 54 ab 54 c5 33  01 00 00 00 00 00 00 00  |...T.T.3........|
00000010  ca 02 00 00 00 00 00 00  01 00 00 80 00 00 00 00  |................|
00000020  4e 58 53 42 00 10 00 00  aa 0e 2f 0a 00 00 00 00  |NXSB....../.....|
00000030  00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00  00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00  |................|
00000040  02 00 00 00 00 00 00 00  05 69 77 e5 1b 75 49 0e  |.........iw..uI.|
00000050  81 7c 14 7b c7 2c e5 35  a5 e2 00 00 00 00 00 00  |.|.{.,.5........|
00000060  cb 02 00 00 00 00 00 00  18 01 00 00 44 6c 00 00  |............Dl..|
00000070  6d 3a 09 00 00 00 00 00  8e 90 08 00 00 00 00 00  |m:..............|
00000080  21 00 00 00 01 38 00 00  1f 00 00 00 02 00 00 00  |!....8..........|
00000090  da 37 00 00 27 00 00 00  39 3e 00 00 00 00 00 00  |.7..'...9>......|
000000a0  05 30 10 00 00 00 00 00  01 04 00 00 00 00 00 00  |.0..............|
000000b0  00 00 00 00 64 00 00 00  03 04 00 00 00 00 00 00  |....d...........|
000000c0  06 04 00 00 00 00 00 00  31 3e 00 00 00 00 00 00  |........1>......|
000000d0  2c dd 00 00 00 00 00 00  00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00  |,...............|
000000e0  00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00  00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00  |................|
000000f0  00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00  00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00  |................|
00000100  00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00  00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00  |................|
00000110  00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00  00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00  |................|
00000120  00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00  00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00  |................|
00000130  00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00  00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00  |................|
00000140  00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00  00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00  |................|
00000150  00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00  00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00  |................|
00000160  00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00  00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00  |................|
00000170  00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00  00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00  |................|
00000180  00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00  00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00  |................|
00000190  00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00  00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00  |................|
000001a0  00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00  00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00  |................|
000001b0  00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00  00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00  |................|
000001c0  00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00  00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00  |................|
000001d0  00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00  00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00  |................|
000001e0  00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00  00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00  |................|
000001f0  00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00  00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00  |................|
00000200

I was largely following what sounded to be a similar problem but in my case I find that the container is APFS. So that didn't help.
Furthermore, I tried TestDisk based on but it gave me the wrong starting and ending sectors (which I realized among other ways by hexdump).
To be honest, at this point I do not even see how to see there is a problem from the diagnostics above except that disk2s3 does not mount.
One more point, I looked at the disk through Steller Data Recovery Professional and find the files I am interested in. However, (a) I do not want to pay the price of an external hard drive for a one time recovery and (b) I want to understand what is going on and it feels like there should be a simple fix to this problem.
EDIT: Based on Tetsujin's comment I realized something funny. I have OSX 10.11.6 so indeed it should not be able to read an APFS formatted disk. What I do not understand is how my disk2s3 became APFS. Is it because I installed Mojave on it? Is there a way to make it go back to whatever it was (I do not know what it was). Can I use gdisk to try HFS/HFS+ without destroying the data? The reason I think something else is wrong is because I was not able to boot from the disk either.

What OS are you currently booted to? Something that knows what APFS is?

I am on OS X 10.11.6 and was on this earlier too when the disk2s3 was being mounted. Any excursions outside of this were when I installed Mojave on the same disk2s3 and booted from it.

@Tetsujin That was a very good question. I hadn't done my homework and had not realized that APFS is not readable by OSX 10.11.6. I have made an edit to my question.

What is the model/year of your Mac ?

MacBook Pro (Retina, 13-inch, Early 2015)


text:
How to show my iCloud Calendar entries in my Android calendar app?
I know this may sound stupid, but I can't figure out how to sync my Android calendar app with my iCloud Calendar?
All I want to do is to display my business appointments (MacBook Pro; Owner) on my private phone (Honor ??; Subscriber). I don't even need to update them from my phone.
I tried to share it (Apple -> Android), but it wants me to create an Apple ID. I have a private one already, but I don't see any possibility to add it to my Android calendar apps. Neither default calendar app nor Google Calendar.
And accessing the calendar over the web browser is utterly pathetic (Ignoring the fact that Apple prevents access from "non-apple devices" anyway - in 2019).

Does your last paragraph answer your question?

See : https://apple.stackexchange.com/q/218793/237687

@SolarMike well, I couldn't believe this is for real... Thanks, will check your link.


text:
iPad still makes faint noise even though silent mode is turned on
I use an iPad pro 3rd gen 12.9 wifi 256 GB.
I turned on silent mode from the Control Centre and even turned off system volume from settings.
I also turned off the volume of music or video
But, still, faint noise leaks from my iPad's speaker when I play video or music on this condition
How can I turn off the sound perfectly, or is it a flaw of the iPad?
If it is, how can I solve this problem?

Most likely a flaw in the iPad. Get it inspected by an authorised service provider.

I’m pretty sure this is a bug. I reproduced this where the volume buttons & Control Centre didn’t help mute media — only the mute button in the video player did.


text:
Redial last number
Is there a way to quickly redial the last number in the phone.app? I know you can go into recents but is there a quicker way on iOS 12 using iPhone SE?

Never tried this but what if you say, "Siri, redial last number?"

3D press your phone application and go to “ view most recent calls “
Then select the number you want to dial.
Go to phone.app and go to the keypad screen.
Then with no numbers pressed, press the green dial icon. This will automatically show the last dialled number.

my phone doesn't have 3d touch, see my answer

There is a way. Go to phone.app and go to the keypad screen.
Then with no numbers pressed, press the green dial icon. This will automatically show the last dialled number.
This is also possible if you received the calls while locked.
From Redial Last Incoming Call without Unlocking Phone:

Under Settings > Notifications, if you have "Show Previews" > Always along with Phone > Alerts > Show on Lock Screen, then all you have to do is tap on the missed call from the lock screen to call it back.


text:
Play sound through earpiece speaker iphone
How can i make my iPhone 7 play all sound through the earpiece?
I want to listen to music privately without headphones thought this would be an easy way to do it, pointing bottom of phone low-volume to head is awkward and doesn't work v well.

This is currently not possible as the earpiece speaker is only for phone calls. Your choice is the main speaker or a headset.
From this discussion:

As far as I know this is not an option.
The earpiece receiver is for phone calls, it's not a "private speaker". Your choices are the iPhones main speaker or a headset.

You can request Apple to add this functionality here.

How about as an app developer? can i send audio through the earpiece?

@theonlygusti i dont think so

Might be useful  — also check out this SO post and this one


text:
Ways to access Apple Pay
What are the possible ways to access Apple Pay as quickly and easily as possible on an iPhone SE in a shop? I am using iOS 12.

Some ways are:
From the lock screen - Go to Settings -> Wallet & Apple Pay and enable Double-Click Home Button. Now when you double-click on the lock screen your cards will appear. Then select your card and use Touch ID or hold it next to the reader. One of the quickest and easiest ways.
Siri - You can access Apple Pay by saying "Apple Pay" to Siri.
Wallet App - Go to the wallet.app, click on your card at the top. Then when you rest your finger on the home button, it will authenticate it and search for a nearby reader.
Holding it near the reader - When you hold your iPhone near a card reader it will automatically bring up your list of cards.
You might also want to check out Apple Pay.

Additionally: add 'Wallet' in Settings - Control Center - Customize Controls.


text:
Preview app not working properly in macOS Mojave
After upgrading macOS to Mojave, Preview app is not functioning the same.
I am no longer able to delete, drag & drop or select several files and open in the same window.
Is there a fix for this or do I need to go back to Sierra?

Firstly, welcome to Ask Different! :)  I hope you come to find this site has a lot to offer! In case you haven't already, it's worth taking the time to read the tour. In the meantime, I haven't noticed any problems with Preview app in macOS Mojave (at least not with using drag & drop or opening several files in the same window). In terms of no longer being able to delete, can you clarify exactly what you're trying to do with the Delete option?

Ensure in Preview's preferences, that either Open all files in one window or Open groups of files in the same window is selected. If that looks OK and you're still experiencing the issue:

Quit Preview
Move ~/Library/Preferences/com.apple.Preview.plist to the Trash
Re-launch Preview
Re-check preferences & ensure Open all files in one window or Open groups of files in the same window is selected
Attempt to reproduce your original issue

Well I tried that, but no change in response. I have looked for duplicate files and there were none. Do you have any other approaches to this ? I appreciate your input

I'm only able to replicate your issue by deliberately setting "Open each file in its own window" in Preview's preferences, even after creating a new test account on my Mac running 10.14.3. Can you try logging in as another user (use the Guest account or create and use a temporary account if needed) to see if the issue persists? Also, have you upgraded to the latest version of Mojave (10.14.3)?

I will try that and let you know how it goes. Yes I recently updated to 1.4.3 . I have also used the quick action drop down to build a pdf of selected files. It will open in one window, but it won't allow any deletions. Its grayed out. Bizarre....

I have a raw guest desk top that I logged into. I was able to do normal functions on that side. Now I am wondering what could be causing the issue on the normal login. Thanks for your input

Reboot. At the login window, enter the credentials for your primar login, but hold down the shift key while clicking on the "Log In" button. Release shift when you se the Dock appear. This will temporarily disable any login items from launching (like a Safe Mode but just for your account). Re-test. If resolved, go through your Login Items (System Preferences > Users & Groups > Login Items) and start playing whack-a-mole with them until you discover what's causing the issue.

Tried  the above and found no difference. Full safe boot up & account directions listed. Looking through my login on start up I don't actually show anything. I appreciate your help on this.

No worries — you've piqued my interest! Could be a launchd user process then, as these aren't technically login items (thus not disabled by holding down shift while logging in) and would only run in your primary login account. Take any .plist file you find in ~/Library/LaunchAgents and drag them to a new empty folder on your desktop and then reboot & re-test.

I can copy them ,but no provisions to trash & or move them? Maybe I'm missing something

well for some reason I can select random .png files and they all come up in one window with scroll & thumbnails. The mystery continues. Thnx again for all the help

wanted to update progress on this preview question. I pulled a copy of Sierra preview into a folder on the Mojave desktop. closed version 10 app reopened using version 9. Works fine so far. to over come the dual issue I pulled into the dock and set it to open at login. to be honest I did not think it would work. Thnx again

I would make a brand new user account on this Mac and be sure it's reproducible. I would hate for you to have user permissions corruption and have this be fixed with a new user.
Also - be sure to try a couple PDF you get from printing a web page to a PDF or other "clean" PDF that come from pages or word and print to PDF as opposed to export to PDF.
Sometimes a class of older or crafted / complicated PDF can cause issues that take a couple months for Apple to fix. I have a couple Mojave PDF related bugs that still aren't fixed since they are rare/obsucure/took a while to convince Apple they were legit.

I resolved a similar issue on Mojave by

making sure the app was in my dock - if it's to the right of the divider line, move it to the left.
I quit the app,
then I held down the Shift key then clicked the Preview icon in the dock.

This may or may not fix your issue but it's worth trying.
Holding Shift while opening will start up the app without trying to ppen any of the windows it had open before.


text:
Install New Hard Disk on Mac Mini 2011
After a fail in the HDD, I am trying to reinstall Mountain Lion from USB (or Lion or whatever other without any particular choice) on a Mac Mini 2011 in an empty HDD.
Guessing because the disk is empty, most startup key, mainly Option (Boot Options), Command+R (Recovery), D (Hardware Diagnostics), do not work, hence I do not know how to finish these tutorials, since the OSX USB Boot do not appear.
The unique keyboard combinations working are Command+Option+P+R for an NVRAM|PRAM Reset and PowerOn + Hold (10 s), for a System Management Controller Reset.
From the hardware: I hear the Startup Sound, the keyboard is working but not the Num|Caps|Hold lights, I have disconnected the mouse or other peripherals, and the monitor and basic electronics apparently works, by sending a failure messages while booting from a Windows 8 USB Bootable media ("The Boot Configuration Data file doesn't contain valid information for an operating system").
I have tested some tricks on making some tricky formatting on the hard disk, plugging in pre-made bootable disks, but up to this moment, no choices made the Mac Mini to get loaded.
Neither Apple Stores accepts me to have the machine reinstalled for free (they don't do "maintenance service").
Question is which tutorial should I follow in this case.

The macOS USB installer is faulty and you need to create a new one.  If you have access to another Mac (a friend's for example) you should do this there.  The Apple store should be able to assist you in at least creating a USB installer.

Also, your mini should support Internet Recovery.  Give that a shot as well.

I will focus then on getting a better USB Boot.... thanks

Let us know how it works out - we can try to find you a route to a solution if the first methods strike out.

The question is duplicated. Most of the options are not there because the disk is empty, AND the USB was faulty. I just created a new from a Mac at my side, and it worked. Thanks @Allan...

Glad you got it solved!  Oh...and Welcome to Ask Different!


text:
iTunes podcast connect
Has anyone successfully created a podcast on iTunes? I'm in Apple Hell : if I go to Podcast Connect, it lets me log in, then I choose "Podcast" as the type of content I want to create, and that takes me back to the Login page.
I gather my Apple ID has to be approved for content creation, but I cannot figure out how to do that.
There is also App Store Connect, but I cannot access THAT because it says
"To access App Store Connect, you must be enrolled in the Apple Developer Program or be invited by a user with the Legal role or Admin role in App Store Connect. Learn More."

The issue:
You need to accept the Terms & Conditions for the iTunes Store.
Why?
When you attempt to login to http://PodcastsConnect.apple.com with an Apple ID that has not been authorized for use in the iTunes Store, you will get stuck in a loop (and thus, instead of logging into PodcastsConnect, you will be returned back the login screen).
The solution:

Login to the iTunes Store. (In iTunes: click "Store" in the top >
Login. Accept the terms. On an iOS device: Settings > iTunes Store >
Login. Accept the terms.) You don't need to enter a credit card!
Login at https://podcastsconnect.apple.com/
Submit your podcast feed.

Bonus: Don't forget to check out the awesome Podcast Analytics

Source
You need to create an account on Apple's podcast management site: itunesconnect.apple.com.

Click the  iTunes Connect Add podcast button at the top left of the iTunes Connect dashboard.
Enter your RSS feed into the provided text box and then click the “Validate” button.
A Feed Preview will load if you do not have any validation errors. Please take a moment and review your podcast artwork, description, general information (e.g. description, categories, etc), and episodes. Please see the Validation Errors section if you have any problems validating your podcast feed.
If everything within the Feed Preview is correct, click the “Submit” button.

Here's Apple's Podcast Creation Help Site that can walk you thru the process.


text:
Change iOS account on iPhone without losing data
For my company I had to create an Apple ID to publish our app. I am the one with an iPhone for personal use and I have an Apple ID for private use. I do not want this Apple ID to be affiliated with my companies.
For the enrollment process of an App Store account I need to enable the 2 factor auth and this can only be done by logging in to a iOS or Mac OS device and enable the 2auth there. Every time I would login into my account from an unkown device I have to get the code from this phone with this companies account.
Also when I will log-out of my private account all data will be lost. That is what a warning message says.

I cannot have my private and business Apple ID on one phone
I do not want to only have the business Apple ID on the phone because it is my phone not the companies
My company does not have the resources to buy another Apple device
The device we will use needs to stay in our hands

Above statements are the fact but not really my situation. What would one do to fix above scenario?

So, the company wants you to develop an iPhone app? The company will give you an iPhone.

I mean, the company might not [want to] give you an iPhone, but if you want to do this without losing data, you need them to get a separate device for development.

You cannot add the business account for 2FA to your iPhone without first logging off the private account. However, when you have logged into the business account and enabled 2FA, you can logout and then login to your private account again.
Instead of purchasing a new phone for the business, you can also use any other modern iOS or macOS device for enabling 2FA. I.e. you can use for example a Mac computer or an iPad or iPod Touch.


text:
10.14: Change accent color to grey - but keep colored traffic lights?
How can I keep the colored traffic lights when the accent color is grey?


text:
Hide an application from third party uninstallers
Is there a way to hide an application from third party Uninstallers like MacKeeper?
I am using an application that blocks websites and everything else I want. When its blockers are running, I set it so that I can’t uninstall the application in the native way. But, third party Uninstallers like MacKeeper can easily uninstall the application without any problems.
So, I am wondering if there is a way to hide an application from third party Uninstallers.
Thank y’all.

Does mackeeper have a whitelist?

what if you install it under an admin account and then log in with a limited account with all restrictions turned on so you don't have the ability to uninstall anything. Is that moving in the direction of the solution you are looking for?

Hmmm I have to try it in few hours. I will get back to ya

I just tried it. And it won’t work. I grant access to every application that I have installed except for MacKeeper. I did this for a test, of course. But when I login to the limited account,, I get a. Pop-up on startup asking if I want to grant and allow MacKeeper to run or not...When this pop-up , it disables other applications to automatically start up, especially the application that I use to block websites and etc. For me, the blocking application is useless if it doesn’t automatically starts up.

I obviously can block every third party Uninstallers out there. But it would take me a week or longer since there are hundred upon hundreds of Uninstallers. I am disabled so everything I do is time consuming.
If there was a list of every exited Uninstallers, I would just copy and paste their window titles or application names (or even their process names) into the blocking application <-------- That would be easy!

I would suggest that it is good you can’t do this.  If you could then malware could stop themselves from being uninstalled. However what is the issue here makwarebytes is asking you if you want to delete so just say no. What other programs uninstall things.


text:
Can an 85w MagSafe charger (model#: A1172) be used safely with a MBPro 13.3” retina?
I’ve read through a few threads on here on this subject - which give very detailed information - but just wish to ask, by way a safety/ sanity check, the following...
I have a MacBook Pro 13” Retina display (early 2013), which uses a Magsafe 2 60w charger.
The original, 60w charger has failed and I wish to confirm whether this charger I have will be safe to use with my MB Pro:

Apple 85w MagSafe charger for MacBook Pro.
Model#: A1172
Input: 100-240V-1.5A 50-60Hz
Output: 18.5V 4.6A

Link: full charger specs here >>
I have this from an earlier model MBPro I had.
If I wire this up, by soldering a Magsafe 2 replacement power cord to the board, will this work safely with the MBPro 13”?
Despite the info’ on other threads here confirming that it’s fine to use a 85w MagSafe with a mac that normally uses a 60w charger, I’m unsure whether this one will be safe due to it being an older model than those refered to; ie. older, larger/ rectangular model rather than the more recent square ones.
Would this be safe/ compatible despite this?
Thanks greatly for any help with - best wishes, AE

Btw. I read through on this, and similar threads here - so have that info - it’s just that I want to check re. this ‘specific’ 85w charger and whether it would be safe to use with the MBPro 13” as described above. https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/6834/can-i-use-45-60-85w-macbook-chargers-interchangeably

Indeed, on a level I expect, but with the caveat I was asking about this specific model of charger: #A1172

Apologies if there’s any transgression of the forum rules in that, I’m new obviously.


text:
What speed does maps.app use when calculating walking times
I like walking to places. Before I leave I see how long it will take me to walk there in the maps.app. Often, I find I get there 15% faster than the time displayed on my iPhone. But again I am quite young and walk faster than usual.
Humans walk around 1.4 metres/second. What speed does the maps.app use to calculate walking travel times?

My Map is set to miles, but you could do the same for kilometres..
Drop a pin & keep moving it until it says it will take an hour to walk there.
Check the distance.
Mine says 2.8 miles.
Google tells me 2.8 mph is approx 1.25 m/s


text:
Acrobat Pro DC launches multiple times on Mac
I'm working with a system that has Adobe Acrobat Pro DC 19.010.20069 installed, on a Mac running High Sierra 10.13.6. When Acrobat is launched it proceeds to open multiple copies of itself, repeatedly, until the system has to be force rebooted. Other Adobe apps run fine, including the free Acrobat DC Reader and the entire Creative Cloud suite.
To troubleshoot, I first tried removing all Acrobat preferences and support files in the following locations:
 ~/Library/Application Support/Adobe/Acrobat/
 ~/Library/Preferences/Adobe/

 /Library/Application Support/Adobe/Acrobat/
 /Library/Application Support/Adobe/Acrobat DC AMT/
 /Library/Application Support/Adobe/Acrobat DC Helper Frameworks/
 /Library/Preferences

This had no effect. We then completely uninstalled and reinstalled Acrobat, also to no effect. Does anybody have any suggestions as to what to try next?

uninstall/reinstall rarely fixes anything at all, as it doesn't touch the prefs, only the application.
See if clearing the application saved state helps - ~/Library/Saved Application State/com.adobe.[acrobat].savedState
I don't have Acrobat, so that file path is generic for Adobe products.

Good suggestion, I deleted that data but it didn't make any difference. I also tried creating a new user account on the Mac, this also didn't fix the problem.

Update: I was able to reach Adobe tech support by phone (not easy), and we managed to solve the problem using the Adobe Acrobat Removal Tool. Available here:
https://labs.adobe.com/downloads/acrobatcleaner.html
After removal a reinstallation was successful and worked normally.


text:
Combine Voice Memos in iOS
Is there a way to combine two or more Voice Memos into one recording?
I would be willing to use some software.
I tried to duplicate the recording but found no way of combing the two toegether.

iOS 12 on iPhone.

The native Voice Memos.app doesn’t offer this. You will need to upload your recording to a computer and use a audio editing application like Audacity I’m not affiliated with the software.

iTunes does not have a way to do that.  You can do it with an audio editor.  A free one that many people like, and which has Mac and Windows versions, is Audacity.

https://discussions.apple.com/thread/4707813


text:
Can I remotely control an iPhone from a Windows laptop?
Does TeamViewer Quicksupport only let me  see her  iPhone screen from my Windows laptop? Between computers, TeamViewer lets me control and operate the other computer.
This YouTube video and article refers only to screen sharing.

Yes, that is correct. The current version of TeamViewer for iOS only supports sharing the screen, not remote control.
Other solutions makes remote control possible, but they require the individual app you want to control to support that remote control solution.


text:
How can I clean install of Sierra after trying Mojave upgrade?
I upgraded a Mac to Mojave and found it did not function the same as previous OS. I get a lot of people want to move forward, but I wish to go back to how my Mac was
I now need to clean install Sierra again & try to get back to my comfort zone OS.
How do I plan and execute that?

Possible duplicate of How can I download an older version of OS X/macOS? Note: You can't use Time Machine to roll back to an earlier OS once it has been used on a newer OS.

@Tetsujin I don't see this as a duplicate (since I saw the back story on the other thread so I'll edit and answer this. Paul's problem is possibly too broad if they want one answer to walk through all the possible permutations, but let's get an overview of the process down and let Paul ask a detailed follow on question if they want help on disentangling iCloud / Google sync before or after this reversion.

This is actually a lot trickier than I expected. 1) You'll need bootable Sierra likely. 2) You'll need to manage data reversion 3) A lot can go wrong

@bmike - for sure this is not an easy task even if you have a solid backup - your edit & answer make the dupe distinction clearer too, ty. Maybe have a look at https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/271104/revert-to-el-capitan for a similar task I faced, even with a good solid clone, Backblaze & a Time Machine drive. I ended up using Carbon Copy Cloner's 'safety net' feature to pick out the newer bits rather than the older. It was imperfect, but I just about got there in the end.

@Tetsujin I'm adding that link to my answer - awesome and amazing. I wanted to really help Paul out here - they are new, commented on another thread and I asked him to start a new answer and he did everything I asked for, so If a seasoned user asked that initial question I would have let it stay closed. I wanted to be proactive to rescue this one. Paul - I hope you're OK with me making a bit of a mess here as well as assuming your intent.

@bmike - I appreciate the distinction & your help on this one, for sure :) Hope my linked QA & perhaps also the other also linked from that might go towards a solution too.

OK - if you have a good backup of the machine from before the upgrade, this is very much not a straightforward process and at worst, you'll need a second backup drive (or space on Time Machine if you use that as your backup.) or lose your backup when it's the only copy of your data. This is one case where I would probably make a backup copy of the one backup interval until I'm sure going back to Sierra worked as well as a perfect bootable clone of Mojave if your Sierra is broken when you go back to it. Mojave may have brought to light the broken user account / data and not have been the cause of your problems with Preview, etc... Consider if this makes things even worse before you start.

Now, this isn't automatic as Tetsujin points out - data formats change permanently and irreversibly in some cases when you upgrade so you can't roll back the upgrade and have all your data roll back as well.

You lose all the work you made since upgrading unless you manually export and import that.

If you don't have a backup, the erase and reinstall is easy - but you'll have to hand migrate apps and data back and possible re-install things that broke and might even lose an app or two if you can't find a working installer to run now.

I'll assume you use Time Machine and have space for all the Sierra backups and one good Mojave backup and you don't mind losing everything if you make a mistake:

Perform one last Time Machine backup of the Mojave so you can get any files you modified in the time between before the upgrade and now. You are about to erase everything so you need this backup if the
Organize yourself - think about which data really lives on the Mac. If contacts and photos are in iCloud - consider turning that off so your backup / restore is smaller. Get the exact date of the backup you choose to restore to - verify that the things you need are there. Also - make a list of the key apps.
Make sure you have the Sierra installer - see this to get that installer. How can I download an older version of OS X/macOS?
Follow the ease install procedure - https://support.apple.com/en-us/HT204904 - noting you have to bring the Sierra installer if Internet recovery doesn't let you select that version easily.
When Sierra boots, connect your backup you identified above as the "pre Mojave" and get all your apps and data back.
Validate that the iCloud / off computer data is syncing again (google mail and calendars, iCloud, whatever else)
Then go get any documents you added from the Mojave backup
Remember why backups are so important and why computers where you can revert things are awesome. This wouldn't be possible on iOS and other "always forward" platforms.

Is it possible to migrate from laptop to desktop?


text:
MS Office on the App Store: will it work with an existing 365 subscription?
Microsoft's Office apps have recently become available on the App Store. Can I use my existing Office 365 for Business subscription with these apps?

Did you find anything on microsoft.com about it?

First place I looked but that place is a mess. Also my experience with their support staff is bad. You’ll have to set an auto response “NO BUT I HAVE A MAC!” to every mail you get from them.

There's no reason to swap to the MAS copies of the applications, is there?

@MarcWilson I prefer getting my applications from the MAS as it makes transition smoother when I'm switching to a new computer, or when I'm reinstalling everything after a clean install of the OS.


text:
keyboard shortcut in mail not working
I have set a keyboard shortcut command + L-shift + R-arrow for moving the selected mail to a particular folder. However, it doesn't work (apart from giving the invalid keystroke sound).

However, I observed a very peculiar behaviour i.e. If I go to the
  Message > Move To (and do not click anything), the shortcut starts
  working.

To shed more light on this weird problem that I am facing, please watch this. In this video, I try to use the shortcut but it doesn't work. However, if I do the steps as shown, the shortcut starts working.
Therefore, I wanted to know why the keyboard shortcut is not working (at first) and why it starts working after that.

Pure guess - it doesn't build the list until the first time you open the menu, so the command simply doesn't exist until then.

I guess so but we hardly do this for every shortcut that we create.


text:
Automator, Show/Hide hidden file
I'm still running El Capitan so I don't have that shortcut for show/hide hidden files. A while ago I've created automator service, which using the keyboard shortcut could show/hide hidden file depending on previous state. I've clean installed the os and decided to recreate what I did before, and I am stuck on getting if [ Commandresult = State ]; then part to work.
#!/bin/sh
if [ defaults read com.apple.finder AppleShowAllFiles = "FALSE" ]
then
defaults write com.apple.finder AppleShowAllFiles TRUE
killall Finder
else
defaults write com.apple.finder AppleShowAllFiles FALSE
killall Finder
fi

I've seen Show/Hide hidden files without restarting finder?, but I know it could be shorter like this since I had it working with something like this before.

The reason it fails in a clean install is because the AppleShowAllFiles key does not exist in the com.apple.finder plist file. You can quickly solve the issue by executing the following compound command in Terminal: defaults write com.apple.finder AppleShowAllFiles FALSE; killall Finder Otherwise, you'll need to write the if statement to handle the fact that the defaults command is not returning the expected boolean.

@user3439894 I have ran those commands in sh, and do you have any idea why defaults read com.apple.finder AppleShowAllFiles = "FALSE" always return FALSE regardless of what AppleShowAllFiles boolean is. It is the same problem when I remove double quotation from FALSE in command.

Change if [ defaults read com.apple.finder AppleShowAllFiles = "FALSE" ] to: if [ "$(defaults read com.apple.finder AppleShowAllFiles)" = "FALSE" ]

@user3439894 Thank you so much, it now works perfectly

The is also a way to Show/Hide files from menu bar. The automator service can be downloaded from Toggle Hidden Files. When installed, you can select Finder->Services->Toggle Hidden Files from the menu bar.

Your if statement test,[ ... ], is not properly formed, change:
if [ defaults read com.apple.finder AppleShowAllFiles = "FALSE" ]

To:
if [ "$(defaults read com.apple.finder AppleShowAllFiles)" = "FALSE" ]


text:
Way to temporarily disable badge notifications while using iPhone?
I thought the Do Not Disturb does this, but apparently it only disables calls and notifications when then the phone is locked.
I like playing rhythm games on my phone and idk why everyone suddenly wants to text me when I play, but it disrupts my game play :(. Is there a way to disable it temporarily? I know how to disable it through settings but I don't want to do that every single time I want to play.

If you go to Settings -> Do Not Disturb, you can select to have Do Not Disturb work Always, even when the phone is not locked.


text:
How can my Windows 10 connect to 'Personal Hotspot' of my iPhone automatically
My Personal Hotspot (henceforth PH) remains on, with the same password (see underneath).

After clicking the Wireless icon on my notification area/system tray, I see 'iPhone' on my WiFi list and connect successfully.

Suppose that my iPhone remains on, but I shut down/hibernate/sleep my laptop. After I turn on my laptop again, why does 'iPhone' never appear on my laptop's WiFi list automatically? I have waited 10, 30, 60 mins, and repeated this process 5 times.
Then  I enter Settings > PH, change nothing, and see no changes. 3 mins. later, iPhone appears on my laptop's WiFi list.

On your Windows, could you try to turn OFF Wi-Fi, then turn it back ON? Is it working?

On your iPhone, could you turn Bluetooth off? Is it working?

If you are on the actual Settings -> PH page on the phone, the hotspot is much more aggressively available.

The problem is with the iOS Personal Hotspot feature. By design, the network is discoverable only when the Hotspot screen is open. This means that your PC can't find the network when waking up/rebooting. Unfortunately there seems to be no workaround, I was looking for the same thing for my old car stereo, and I ultimately ended up getting a dedicated personal hotspot for it.
The only workaround is to open the Personal Hotspot screen every time you restart/wake up the PC.

By default, Windows does not do "Bonjour", which is Apple's discovery protocol. If you have a Mac or iPad, you've likely noticed that your iPhone shows up after just a few seconds if they're both connected to the same iCloud account.
You may have better luck after installing Bonjour for Windows. Unfortunately I've long been rid of any "true" Windows PC's so I can't test it for you.
When Bonjour is enabled, part of the discovery can be over Bluetooth for power reasons, so you may want to check whether your Windows box supports Bluetooth and has it enabled.
To identify whether the problem is on the Windows side or the Apple side, I suggest checking whether your iPhone shows up on a Mac/iPad connected to the same iCloud account.

This seems to be more of a Windows questions.
At first glance this might be your problem (and possible solution): https://answers.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/forum/windows_10-networking/wifi-fails-to-automatically-re-connect-after-sleep/2596b501-366a-4b82-a5fd-4466eae7caad?auth=1


text:
Does 'erase all content and settings' actually erase all data?
I recently decided to sell two of my iPhone's (5 and 6s) and I used the 'erase all content and settings' option to wipe and factory reset my iPhone. Now, I'm a little concerned whether this is enough to prevent any data retrieval on my iPhone's and I was wondering if a simple reset in iPhone's settings can provide the same effects as that of an overwritten data? If not, what should I do? Is there a method for overwriting data on an iPhone as there is for macOS?

As long as you follow the steps provided by Apple to erase your iOS device, it will erase all data on the device.  A simple 'reset' of the device is not the same as 'erase all contents and settings'.
Follow these steps:

If you paired an Apple Watch with your iPhone, unpair your Apple Watch.
Back up your device.
Sign out of iCloud and the iTunes & App Store.

If you're using iOS 10.3 or later, tap Settings > [your name]. Scroll down and tap Sign Out. Enter your Apple ID password and tap Turn Off.
If you're using iOS 10.2 or earlier, tap Settings > iCloud > Sign Out. Tap Sign Out again, then tap Delete from My [device] and enter your Apple ID password. Then go to Settings > iTunes & App Store > Apple ID > Sign Out.

Go back to Settings and tap General > Reset > Erase All Content and Settings. If you turned on Find My iPhone, you might need to enter your Apple ID and password.
If asked for your device passcode or Restrictions passcode, enter it. Then tap Erase [device].
If you're switching to a non-Apple phone, deregister iMessage.
Contact your carrier for help transferring service to a new owner. If you aren't using a SIM card with your device, you can contact them to get help transferring service to the new owner.

Just to add onto this, yes it will erase all data effectively–you don't need to overwrite it or anything like that.

@EzekielElin Yes, isn't that what I indicated in my answer?

Oddly enough a few times I have wiped some work-purchased and returned iPhones. These are phones with disabled SIM cards (Via AT&T) but after the reboot and going through the setup procedure there was a red dot over the phone.app icon indicating a number of voicemails were there. They did not exist on the phone and you couldn't make a call to retrieve them from AT&T and another trip through "erase all content and settings" did nothing. So god only knows what was going on, perhaps a bug in an older version of iOS but still damn strange.


text:
If I lose access to my account after enabling two factor authentication, will I lose my entire developer account?
Today I enabled two-factor-authentication for my Apple ID since they required me to do so.
Before finishing the process, a message popped up, saying:

Apple will not be able to reset your password on your behalf.

Now, I'm a bit scared that if I lose access to my phone AND my recovery key for whatever reason - will I lose my entire developer account without any chance of recovery?

Per the Apple Developer Two-Factor Authentication FAQ's:

What if I lose access to my trusted devices and trusted phone number?
You can request account recovery to regain access to your account.
Account recovery might take a few days or longer, depending on the specific account information you can provide to verify your identity.

Thank you! The message from apple just made me a bit sceptical.


text:
Airport Time Capsule - check backups with another laptop
My laptop is dead. I got an AirPort Time Capsule, and I want to check if there is a fresh backup inside. But because my laptop doesn't start up anymore, is it possible to use another computer to check the backups of my dead one?
Thanks!

You should be able to get into the Time capsule with the same identity and see what is there...

Thanks for the answer @SolarMike. What do you mean by the same identity? I want to use the macbook of another person to check the backups


text:
USB HD that is R/W from Mac and Windows
If I have a USB external HD how can I format it so it is R/W from both Mac and Windows?
Is that possible?

@Lizzan: The question that was linked as duplicate is from 2011. Is the information still relevant after 8 years?

@Tetsujin: Same comment. That post is it still relevant? It was from 2011


text:
App store require Documents for authorized to distribute the content
i publish my application on app store but it's not accepted in several time and the reviewer request for the document for authorized to distribute the content
but i don't know how to document ?
the app store reviewer Answer :

Thank you for your message. Please respond with documentation attached, using the upload feature, evidencing that Jenyar has been authorized to distribute the content owned by the artists. Once Legal has reviewed your documentation and confirms its validity, we will proceed with your application review.

please if anybody know about this guide me
Thanks

Judging by your last question on this topic, https://apple.stackexchange.com/questions/351601/third-party-content-app-document-for-app-store I think it's probably time to talk to a lawyer.

Getting submissions from the 3rd parties that are acceptable to prove their acceptance of the conditions will probably be a better use of your time instead of repeating the same question.


text:
How To Execute Login Items Before Application Reopen?
System Preferences -> Users & Groups -> [user] -> Login Items
seem to be executing after, or at least in parallel with, the application reopens on reboot.  In my case this is undesirable because I have software that must run in order to keep the system from crashing when applications like Chrome start running.
I know I can turn off application reopen but that's not what I want either.
How can I specify that I want the Login Items to open first?
Failing that, how can I specify that I want one of the Login Items to open first?

There seems to be a larger issue if you have to “run in order to keep the system crashing when apps like Chrome start.”

Yeah, the larger issue is I don't have the money to buy a new Mac and the GPU chipset in the 2010 Macbook Pro isn't properly supported by more recent versions of the OS and Apple has been bugged about it ad infinitum and... nuff said?

What do you mean "the GPU chipset in the 2010 Macbook Pro isn't properly supported by more recent versions of the OS"?  Apple either supports your Mac model or it doesn't; there's no in between here.  I suspect this is a logic board issue and not something with macOS itself.

However, let's see what we can see... Can you provide the output of the command ls ~/Library/LaunchAgents and post it to your question.

An indepth description of the problem is in this post at macrumors:
https://forums.macrumors.com/threads/gpu-kernel-panic-in-mid-2010-whats-the-best-fix.1890097/

$ ls ~/Library/LaunchAgents
com.adobe.AAM.Updater-1.0.plist   com.dropbox.DropboxMacUpdate.agent.plist
com.adobe.GC.Invoker-1.0.plist   com.lastpass.LastPassHelper.plist
com.bittorrent.uTorrent.plist   com.skype.skype.shareagent.plist

Please post it to the original question, it's super difficult to parse it as a comment.

That MacRumors post is a just a very long thread on how to avoid actually fixing the problem - which is to replace the failed GPU.


text:
Completely delete files from Trash on SSD
I've found a file with my personal information in it and I didn't want anyone to see them. So, I trashed the file and permanently deleted it.
Now, I've found out that when you delete a file from the Trash, you only remove a link to it (a pointer).
How do I completely remove it from my hard drive?

Should I make a very large file full of zeros to overwrite the sectors no longer in use, completely full up my hard drive, then delete it?
Are there any free, open source tools to recover the file so I know it's gone or not?

I am using MacBook with a SSD drive. If this question is not suitable, please merge it.

See this answer:  https://apple.stackexchange.com/a/258274/119271

Thank you so much. It seems to have what I need to know.


text:
My MacBook Pro slows down
My MacBook Pro Specs:

macOS Mojave 10.14.4 Beta (18E194d)
Processor 2.7 GHz Intel Core i7
Memory 16 GB 1600 MHz DDR3
Graphics Intel HD Graphics 4000 1536 MB

When using Autocad, Excel, or Adobe (apps), my laptop slows down tremendously.
Is there any way to speed it up/find out what is slowing it down?

There is no way to tell what is wrong with the information you have given, can you provide more (such as apps running in the background, year of laptop, etc.)

The MBP that uses the HD4000 graphics chipset is most likely the 2012 MacBook Pro.  It's probably a good idea to not run a beta version of an OS on a machine you depend on for work.

I agree with @Allan. You should install a more stable version of the OS and then share a screenshot of the processes hogging up your machine.


text:
Unable to access phone after update to iOS 12.1.4
I recently updated my iPhone 5S to iOS 12.1.4 and I can't access it anymore.  The phone says "Press Home to upgrade". My phone's home button is broken so I can't press the Home button. I have assistive touch, but the screen is not responsive to my touch.
I have also tried:

Trying to restart the phone. When I press the sleep/wake button for a long time, the Apple logo flickers before the phone shuts down. When I long press again, the Apple logo displays, then the white words "iPhone is disabled" and the smaller "please wait 1 minute" is displayed. Eventually, the same screen appears.
Trying to revert to a backup. After I tried 2 different cables which have been working previously, and making sure the USB input was working, the phone would not be detected by the computer itself.

Can somebody help me?

You said you have assistive touch enabled, but the screen doesn't respond.  Does the screen not respond to anything at all or just within assistive touch?

I don't know. I think it's assistive touch itself since the screen was working earlier.

So, the screen isn't working at all right now.

Connect your iPhone to iTunes

If iPhone is locked, iTunes will not recognize that it's connected.

Therefore, you have to put your iPhone to DFU mode. Usually, a key combination is used to do that (requires home button).
Other way is to use third party software, which allows you to enter DFU mode with one click.

Recboot
Tiny Umbrella
Redsn0w

I have not checked, whether second and third option works with your iOS and iPhone, but there are a few others worth trying.

When your iPhone enters DFU mode, you will be able to manually reinstall iOS using iTunes or recover from backup.

I think broken home button is the source of the problem.
I think below can be a solution.

Get an external home button like this. But I do not know this product also works for your iPhone 5S. There are similar cases like yours. Some people succeeded but others did not.
Boot with DFU mode and revert to backup via iTunes.


text:
Incorrectly labelled albums in Apple Music
I sometimes come across albums in Apple Music whose tracks are incorrectly labelled. For instance, the second track of this album is entirely incorrect. Similarly, the first three tracks of this album are permuted.
If I download the album then I can change the song info in my library. But, is there any way to let Apple know that they have their songs incorrectly labelled, so that the album data can be corrected in Apple Music itself?

It's possible that the problem is not with Apple's database - it may be in the catalog/meta data that the music publisher supplied. It's not unusual to see this on CDs. I'd suggest: Don't Worry Be Happy

@Seamus I suppose you’re right :)

Pulling down the comment above, since it satisfactorily answered my question, and it seems this question will not be receiving more activity anytime soon.

It's possible that the problem is not with Apple's database - it may be in the catalog/meta data that the music publisher supplied. It's not unusual to see this on CDs. I'd suggest: Don't Worry Be Happy – Seamus Mar 2 '19 at 5:08


text:
Spaces taken up by iBooks is not showing on iCloud?
I recently deleted iPhone backup on iCloud which was occupying almost 4gb out of my 5gb basic iCloud storage. Since then when I check my iCloud account it shows that iBooks 3.8 data but only showing 1.1gb total on iCloud Drive.
I’m using iPad to read iBooks and All my academic books are stored on iBooks. I’m really worried that Apple may delete my iBook books. This happens to me once. Is this a software issue or what?
Note: also I noticed though I have enough space showing on the iCloud as shown in the image, my WhatsApp backup progress is stucked!

Are you using iBooks both for books bought in the iTunes store and for PDFs you've added yourself?

@nohilside yes. Most of my books are my academic PDFs.


text:
Macbook Air A1465 - Not Booting - Cannot power off
I have a Macbook Air A1465 that was having some issues with Teamviewer, so I used the terminal to remove all teamviewer files with the following command
for x in $(mdfind -name "teamviewer"); do rm $x; done
Now on startup, all I get is a black screen with the loading spinner, but I can't power off the Mac by holding the power button for 10 seconds.
The mouse cursor flashes up every now and then, but that's the only sign of life apart from the spinner.
Is there any other way to power off the Macbook besides waiting for the battery to run dry?

hold power button for 10 seconds

I can't power off the Mac by holding the power button.

take out the battery :) or wait 8 hours

I would rather not disassemble the Macbook if there's another option...however that is my last resort at the moment, if I can get my hands on some pentalobe screwdrivers, and I'd rather not have to wait 8 hours if I power it off and back on and it does the same thing again...hence the "other way to power it off besides waiting for the battery to run dry"