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Why aren't LEGO bricks cubic?
The height of the 1x1x1 LEGO brick is 6/5 times its width. Is there any particular reason for these proportions? And especially why not making a cubic brick (it would have made SNOT building easier)?

In the same line: Why is a plate 1/3 of the brick's height?

Probably to simulate real bricks: each of their dimensions are a different length.

In the 60s, Lego did produce a separate system for architectural modelling called Modulex which used a 1:1 ratio 5mm cube as its basic brick. It wasn't successful and was discontinued in the late 60s.
I believe the 6:5 was chosen so that studs could fit into the geometry. Related: why the plate is 1/3 of the brick's height. By adding two plates to the height of the brick vertically you can now match the centres of two horizontal units (6+2+2):(5+5)

Thanks for your answer. Your explanation for the height of a plate is indeed quite convincing. I'm not sure I understand what you mean by studs fitting in the geometry though. Could you please elaborate ?

@ghoppe: I'm confused. Didn't the bricks with holes in come years after the plates? Were Lego really planning that far ahead? OTOH, I can't imagine that the geometry you describe is a happy coincidence.

From everything I've seen, the geometry is very well thought out and seems to cover all eventualities (or was just very lucky :o)

It was a part of an old logo, with the five bands signifying the five 2x2 plates needed to get a 2 brick width.

Thinking Lego started with 2×4 bricks of 1.25 inches. As they made model tractors not from bricks, they made the height of bricks to be equal to the difference between the small and large wheels' centres to build tractors. So (√10 - √2) ÷ 2, but needed to add the size of a stud. Or could just be that 2×4 studs fit the size of a large wheel. In fact 2×4 fits large wheel, but 2×2 overlaps the tyre on small wheel.
Slope, 1:1, 100%, 45°, but they have a vertical edge. Guess that = 1/16" & needed to take studs underneath, but not as much as a slimbrick as sloping up from it.
Plates need enough height for studs underneath.
I have some bricks (not compatible with Lego) whose height equals the width of one stud pieces, and whose height is equal to that of 2 plates. I guess a 1/2 Lego plate wouldn't look right for a flat roof, which is their main use?


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Are LEGO elements safe to use in an aquarium with fish?
Are LEGO elements safe to use in an aquarium with fish? I've never seen LEGO elements in a working fishtank.

One of our local aquarium shops used to stock the TMC/BrightBricks after-market sets as interesting additions to your aquarium.

The main restaurant in the LEGOLAND park in Windsor has quite a lot of LEGO creations in fishtanks. In the same park, the Sealife attraction 'Atlantis Submarine Voyage' has 50 species of sharks, rays and tropical fish that happily coexist with the LEGO models.

Keep in mind that LEGO is safe from children saliva, which I'm willing to bet is more aggressive than fishtank water.

Not to mention Legoland Windsor's Atlantis

Legolan Billand also has an underwater exhibit with Lego in it.

Nice pic. Looks like I have a project.

Even if they are safe, will they remain pristine, though, i.e. how do you keep them from turning mouldy?

Not sure about that, but I suppose some cleaner fishes might help - although they might have trouble reaching some places. I'm afraid your best bet there is to remove your creation to clean it regularly.

LEGO bricks should be safe for fish. Avoid using small parts that they could mistake for food. You also might be cautious on the paint, but I'm sure it's still safer than the paint used on the cheap stuff you'll find at fish stores.

On that note, you may want to settle for normal bricks, perhaps avoid the printed ones. Possibly the older ones (like the old computer screen printed slopes) are less safe than newer ones, and forget any of the stickers.

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What is piece 4211642 from 10179 - UCE Millenium Falcon?
I'm working on making sure I have all necessary pieces for 10179: Ultimate Collector's Edition Millenium Falcon (a painstaking process, to say the least). I received the set not entirely complete, partially disassembled, and without directions.
I'm using the PDF of the directions to sort and count the pieces, and I can't figure out what this piece (4211642 on the bottom) is supposed to be:

(from center of p.308)
I don't have anything left over that appears to match, and the part number isn't of any help. I've even paged through the instructions to see where these five mystery pieces are used, but can't seem to figure it out. Can't find it on the Peeron parts list.
The PDF is of annoyingly low resolution. Can someone with a printed copy help me out here?

Only other thing I can think of is if this is a small part that snaps into another larger part and doesn't come out later, but I can't identify any candidates for that...

The picture looks like the Technic Handle (http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=424) even though it does not appear in the Peeron parts list.

That looks like it, @Joel. Escalating your comment to an answer so I can include pics...

I just finished building the falcon, and (as we had already determined), these pieces were not mentioned anywhere in the building process. Now what do I do with this huge thing? :)

Hi I have just been going through my Lego and sorting brick. I have been working on 10179 and found that I was missing the above piece as well. I went onto Lego to order replacement parts and it does not appear on the listing.

According to the LEGO customer service, this part is a "BUSH Ø7.84" (which is of no help whatsoever, as with most LEGO internal names) and has the design ID 6221. Unfortunately, there seems to be no official picture for it yet.
This design ID corresponds indeed to the part which Joel Cohen and BradC have identified; the element id of the same part in black (622126) as found by BradC follows the old convention design id + color id (26 being Black at LEGO). And this part at the LEGO customer service does have a big image which would clear all doubt if we had any left:

LDraw and Peeron know this part as 424 - Technic Handle. BrickLink does too but refers to 6221 as alternate item number. This happens often with parts which have no markings whatsoever and for which the official LEGO design ID wasn't known at the time the part was added to the LDraw library.
Why the inventory at both Peeron and BrickLink misses it is anyone's guess, but it's one of the biggest LEGO sets ever so it's bound to have mistakes. Although I see the list for Peeron has been provided by LEGO itself, so it's a bit weird.
Is the part actually used somewhere? I don't have the strength to read the whole manual.

Thanks, Joubarc, for the official word. I couldn't find where these pieces are used in a quick scan through the PDF copy of the manual. Due to the fact they are missing from the 3rd-party lists, plus the fact that no gray pieces are available for sale anywhere, I doubt they are used. I'll update when I have finished building to confirm (might be awhile, I still have to replace 350 missing pieces!)

I've put the UCS Millenium Falcon together, and do not recall this piece at all.  My guess is that's its added to the instructions in error.

Thanks, @Grandpappy. Yours is the voice we've been missing in this question so far, someone who has put the set together.

I think Joel Cohen's comment is correct, it looks like a "Technic handle/hub" (escalating to an answer so I can include pics):

Here's a similar-looking view from the parts list of set 7703 Fire Vulture:

and a portion of the instructions from 7476 Dino Attack that shows how it is used:

So if this is correct, it appears to be a mistake (or misprint).
Can someone confirm for me if this piece was included on the parts list of the actual printed manual? Perhaps the PDF was made from an earlier test build?

I'm currently doing an inventory of many of my son's Lego sets, including the 10179 Millenium Falcon set.  The search for this 4211642 piece is what led me to this site/thread in the first place :)
I've been searching/sorting through all pieces, but can't find any of these...  Me and my son are pretty anal when it comes to not losing pieces, and although it's possible we'd have misplaced one or two, I'd say it's pretty much impossible we'd have lost all 5 (The rest of the pieces are actually all there, which is good!!!).
Wanting to double-check, I went through the whole manual to see at which step this 4211642 piece would be needed but, unless I'm totally blind, I haven't seen it anywhere.  So at this point I think it's pretty safe to assume this is a misprint in the official manual and its PDF counterpart.
Hope this helps!
Jofu

Hi Jofu, welcome to the site and thanks for the thorough research - we all know how tedious it can be to read such a manual without building it at the same time. Note, you don't need to pretend the set belongs to your son ;-)

LOL...  Ok, you got me :D  But for the record, my son does believe it's his :P

I'm trying to assemble the 10179 set by buying the individual pieces, since the prices for the set are outrageous.  I put the inventory of parts from the PDF version of the manual into an Excel spreadsheet to track piece counts and prices.  The total number of pieces comes out to be exactly 5200.  If you subtract 5 for the 4211642 pieces that are listed but apparently not included or used, that leaves 5195 pieces, the official piece count for the set.  So, my guess is that the 4211642 pieces are not supposed to be in the set.

Well, I have the Falcon and I can confirm that those pieces are not included on this set. That print appears on my manual too, therefore it is a simple print mistake. I have built the Falcon three times (only for enjoying) and those pieces still hide somewhere, on the abbism of the box, so don´t worry. You have all the pieces.

You may want to use the bricklink inventory for the set.  But looking through that, I don't see a part with quantity 5 that looks anything like that.

Me either, on either the Bricklink inventory or Peeron inventory list.

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Is a N2 or CO2 paintball tank a viable power source for a LEGO pneumatic Engine?
I would like to know how a LEGO pneumatic engine would perform when powered with a nitro (N2, HPA) or CO2 tank. I have seen a few RC cars powered with air (from soda bottles), so I am wondering if it would be advisable to power such an vehicle with a much more powerful but also heavyer paintball tank.
There are few pneumatic engines designs, like this Lego Pneumatic Engine switchless LPE-V4-DIHC or this Lego 1500 rpm V8 or this (defective) LEGO V8 pneumatic.

I am not building one yet. But I am very... very curious about how effective such an engine would be when powered with a paintball tank... for how long would it be able to run? Has someone already tried that?
There have been RC cars with LPE engines but all I have seen was powered with soda bottles. I am planing an RC car of my own and I'm going with a simple electric solution but, an LPE would be sweet if it worked for more than a few minutes.

Precisions: I would like to know how long such an engine could run with a 45/4500 N2 tank for example.
@Joubarc found that such engines can run with a max of 90psi. The inline-4 on that page runs at max speed with a 4bar (58psi) intake (like most other LPE I saw). It means that we can expect slightly higher pressure requirements if the engine is delivering power to a system.
N2 tanks are simply filed with air which is cheap (when you have a compressor ;) With the example of a 45/4500psi tank how long could the car run?
Also comes the question of the weight, with a carbon fiber tank weighting over 0.8kg is it really a good idea?
Would CO2 be a viable solution? With a maximum of 6bar should I expect condensation in the pistons? Would it really be a problem to consider?
Simply put do you know if this would work. If not, have you heard of any example that was successful or an epic fail?

Edit: I received an answer from LPEpower:

I have no experience with long term running engines using co2 tanks, but the engines do run fine with them. Perhaps you could warm up the co2 coming out of the cartridge a bit, to prevent condensation. The real danger in my opinion is the low temperatures that the expanding co2 gas creates. Those are not good for the rubber seals. So if you'd manage to heat up the gas using a coil wire wrapped around the intake tube, connected to some batteries, you could prevent that from happening.

I guess I should probably forget about the CO2 and invest in some HPA gear.

You could power it with a LEGO compressor :-/

@Joubarc could, but it defeats the idea of running from a pneumatic engine if you need another engine and power source to power it.

Hence the smiley. That said, it's not totally nonsensical if only for educationnal purposes.

Sorry I wasn't attentive yesterday :)

Please take proper precautions! The on-tank regulator of the compressed air tanks used for paintball typically output close to 800 PSI (55 bar), and even "low-pressure" tanks output around 400 PSI (27 bar). You will absolutely need a secondary regulator to avoid creating LEGO shrapnel!

@echoback I figured that out :)

The biggest issue with lego pneumatics is the hoses. They tend to fly off before anything else does. I got a new pneumatics set a few days ago and i can get my whole system to 97PSI before the pipes pop.

Apprently, it is possible to generate up to 37psi with LEGO pneumatics parts only.
LEGO penumatics can withstand more, however. Engines similar to the one you want to build can work with a recommended pressure intake of 90psi; a maximal (but not recommended) of 120psi is mentionned.
So I think it all boils down to the pressure your N2 or CO2 tanks can generate, under 100psi should be OK. If not, I suppose there could be some way to get it down to that level.
As for using N2 or CO2 instead of air, I don't think there is much reason for concern, since both are faily harmless and present in air anyway.

I am not sure about CO2... On a few occasions I have noticed "snow" coming out of my markers. When the marker gets some liquid CO2 from the tank (or from condensation?) it tends to shoot pellets faster with white jets of CO2 coming out of the muzzle. The way CO2 is expelled in violent successive releases might be why it happens. I'm not sure about what would happen if the gas was released uniformly. That's why I really would like to have an answer from someone who tried that kind of thing.

Also currently this is more of an "academic" question as I don't intend to build one of these immediately... I might end-up buying one from LPEpower as I don't have the parts, the time, tools and experience of modifying the required parts to get one running properly. So before investing in parts that are heavily modified I want to make sure this is a viable/fun solution.

You shouldn't use a CO2 tank with the pneumatic cylinders because it could pop the pistons out of their casings. I would take some pop bottles (2 liters), glue some T-shaped connectors in the lid and fill it with air using bike pump.
Warning. Do Not Go over 100psi with these pop bottles or they will explode. So wear saftey glasses when filling them.


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Best way to store instruction manuals?
Currently I store LEGO set manuals and instructions in hanging file folders in a file box, grouped by set type. This makes it hard to dig through and find the one I need, and manuals tend to get tangled up and damaged.
Is there any storage method that protects the instructions better and makes them easier to find the one I need?

For physical manuals, I personally like to use clear presentation sheet protectors similar to the ones that @BradC mentioned. Regarding organization, I place the ones that I refer to frequently in some binders, sorted by theme, while sets that I don't use as much go into a set of hanging file folders.
If you don't mind electronic storage, you could download all of your manuals, either from Lego's site (for sets since 2002), or from other fan sites as noted in this Squidoo page:

Still no joy? Let's try another site. Go to Worldbricks, choose
  Instructions Number and pick a number range from the dropdown list at
  the top of the screen, or Instructions Theme and pick a starting
  letter from the dropdown list.
Without knowing the number or name, you can still find the set.
  Several sites provide databases of lego sets which you can search by
  theme, or using a single word you remember from the set name, or even
  just something related. Try LUGNET or Peeron, which will link you to
  instructions once you find the set.

Electronic viewing keeps my manuals in pretty good condition - I minimize touching and only pull them out when I build now, while if I just want to browse, I can fire up my computer.

What about clear sheet protectors like these inside a 3-ring binder? I imagine most are designed to hold a single page, and not an entire booklet, but these heavy-duty acid-free ones could be up to the task:

You could have separate binders for different product lines, and sort by set number or name, and the cover of each would be visible as you browse through. Anyone ever try something like this?
(I'm imagining sliding the entire booklet into a single protector, not slicing it up into individual pages. Would these comic book inserts work better, with a fold over top, or is 7-1/4 x 10-3/8" too small for the larger instructions?)

My wife found some magazine holders to keep her magazines organized in a 3 ring binder.  Those might be helpful for some of the larger manuals.

Storing them in order by set number or alphabetically by set name and including an index sheet could help you find the sets easier.

I've tried this for my collection of 37 or so instruction booklets and it doesn't work for me. About 30 instruction booklets make up the size and weight of a phone book. This leads to the pouches sagging.

If I could motivate myself, I'd be tempted to use scanned PDFs and would put the paper originals in a box, in plastic bags, like precious comic books. I'd use the model numbers to refer to them, plus collection folder names (both for physical and digital documents)
My kids are currently in the process of shredding my 20-30 years old instructions manuals (which admittedly, don`t really need any help for falling apart).
Side note, I'm generally against late ideas I'm hearing about providing instruction via computer support only.

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How can I make a working pin tumbler lock?
I'd like to make a working pin tumbler lock out of LEGO bricks. I have already designed a key I'd like to use that should be compatible with five cylinder lock.

I must admit I have some doubts on the key design - the idea of the tumbler lock is that the key is a series of flats and gentle slopes so that the key pins can be pushed gently one way out of the way (against the strength of a spring, no less). I'd rather suggest two layers of 1xn plates, with 1x1 slopes above it or something.

Are you married to that key design? I don't see a good way to get that to slide into anything - the angle is too large and would catch the tumblers rather than push through. I would look at trying pieces like 54200 and 3044 instead, which still gives you 3 options per 2 studs = 243 possible 10 stud keys.

@Joubarc: The key is half the problem. I can see why it wouldn't work. I tried your advice, but the cheese slopes don't align themselves.

This would push the pins up and down like a normal key would.

Here is the basic system. I don't have time to build to whole thing but this resolves the main problem and proves the feasibility.
The main problem was to reproduce the pins system with LEGO bricks since each pins needs to have different lengths.   Early in this project, I wanted to have a 'analog' approach of setting the pins length so to not be constrained by only stacking plates.  For that I used axle perpendicular-joiner (6536) on an axle to build the driver pins (top pins):

The key pins (lower pins) are caped with angles connectors (32013) creating the needed round tips on which the key can push.
In a standard pin tumbler lock system, if the right key is not pushing on the pins, both the driver pins and the key pins can prevent the rotation motion.  If the key tooth is too low, the driver pins is blocking and, if the key tooth is too high, the key pin is blocking.  In my system the driver pins are doing both functions.
In the prototype the red rounded beam and the driver pins would be fixed while the rest would rotating with the key.  In the following picture you can see the lock without the key.  In that state all the driver pins go through the black Technic beam (under the red rounded beam). This would prevent the key from turning.

In the following picture the key is now inserted and all the driver pins are now flushed.  In this position ther driver keys are not engaged into the beams that are part of the rotating module.  This enables the key to turn.

If the wrong key is used or the key is not inserted correctly, the pins would be either too low or too high engaging into the beams that are part of the rotating module and thus preventing rotation.

Movie time! Here's a video demonstrating the mechanism.
The biggest downsides of this system are the size and the fact that the driver pins are not pushed down by spring but by gravity.  Both of those troubles are put to shame by the total awesomeness of having a functioning pin tumble lock made of LEGO bricks.

Good demonstration, but I'd try to align the tumblers with the spot between two studs. Then you can use 3044 for a full brick height and 54200 (which you've used) for a 2/3 height, and pack 50% more tumblers in the same space.

That's the kind of design I had in mind (maybe not multicolor though ;-)). @JoeWreschnig I was assuming there was one tumbler per brick, every 8mm thus — which seems reasonable enouch to me. But a 1x1 plate instead of tile might be gentle enough to work, depending on the design of the pins.

I was referencing to my design of the key when I mentioned it wouldn't work. This is exactly what I understood when you explained it. It looks like the cylinders would get stuck about four studs from the left, perhaps the tile could be replaced with a cheese slope?

@Ambo100 if you build your cylinders with rounded ends they will accept the imperfections.  you could use Technic axles and cap them with a Axle Towball (2736)

@Joubarc: A tumbler per stud would make the tumbler rise an amount I'm not sure how to match - whatever the rise is halfway (or more likely, a bit more than halfway) up a 2/3 block, which is not simply 1/3, but some weird number. The only way I see to make it work at all is to have the tumbler supported on a position of an exact and buildable height, which means the top of the bricks between the studs, not over the studs.

@JoeWreschnig yes, that's certainly going to be an important factor, and as a matter of fact the key and the tumbler should be designed together — even if one has ideas for keys, it's only when building the tumbler that it's possible to see if the idea will be practical or not. I'm curious enough to try it too, honestly, but I don't know when I'll find the time.

I'd be happy to accept this as answer if it included more detail on  both the lock key and mechanism.

@Ambo100 There you go, I added an edit.

Neat! Now you'll need to build the door around it.

I like the solution, as I made something similar, but not near as compact as this in the past. (I used rubber bands to provide the spring effect though.) However what I didn't solve however was how to make it rotate nicely while still keeping the pins in the right position, so they wouldn't fall down when you rotate it. Any ideas to this?

I thought of that.  Sliding a beam under the read rounded beam would do the trick.  The beam would be attached to the fixed part of the mechanism and, using LEGO elastics, would slide under the red beam when the mechanism rotates from under the driver pins. When the key is rotated back, that beam would be pushed out of the way, freeing the driver pins to move down.  The beauty is that, when the right key is in, all the driver pins are flushed (same height).  This is a lot easier to manage.

This would be cool if you could attach it to the door.


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Who is (or was) Susan Williams?
I've heard the name "Susan Williams" associated with LEGO products, especially in the 1980s. Who is / was she?

Related: http://bricks.stackexchange.com/a/563/132

Q: All of the LEGO catalogs are signed by Susan Williams. Is she a real person?
A: No...Susan Williams is the personifcation of all those
  helpful Consumer Affairs people who work at LEGO. As for whether or
  not there ever was a Susan Williams at LEGO, we're not sure.

http://www.lugnet.com/pause/legoqa.html

Today I learned that Susan Williams is not a real person.

@BoltClock For some reason, this makes me sad.

@LarsTech I feel like a legend just died.


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What is the first day of the 2011 Star Wars advent calendar supposed to be?
I opened the Star Wars Advent Calendar 2011 early and I don't get what the set on the first day is. I'm not much of a Star Wars fan I guess. I can't identify it as any particular ship and my only guess is it's a part of a bigger set for later.
And the worst part is I can't find it on the box anywhere. Lego is usually really good with the imagery and usually exaggerates the final product (by making it look bigger or whatever) but it seems only a fraction of the 25 mini models are shown on the box.
Has anyone else opened it up?

Hey! It's not even December, yet! I'll bet you're one of those naugty people who eat all the chocolates early, too! ;-)

@Kramii I know! I wanted to build something but didn't have a lot of time. Lego should release a set like this for every month!

I though basic Star Wars knowledge was mandatory in since 1981

I don't have it, but BrickLink already has inventories of all submodels.
According to them, day 1 is a Republic Cruiser. This is a mini version of 7665 — Republic Cruiser.
They do look quite similar for sets of a such different scale:

Sadly, Wookiepedia doesn't have a picture of a republic-class cruiser, but I suppose that's what it is.

Yes! That's it. And the brinklink link will making identifying the rest way easier. Thanks.

Technically it's a Consular-Class Cruiser http://starwars.wikia.com/wiki/Consular-class_space_cruiser I'll get my coat...

It found ir rather puzzling that LEGO would create a ship for which there's no picture. Nice find.

Republic Cruiser

Is this the one you were looking for? You can see the entire selection of mini-models on Bricklink.

I knew I had to type faster ;-)

@Joubarc it's not always the fastest that's chosen ;)

@Zhaph-BenDuguid unless one is seeking enlightenment :-)


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Are the X-Pods balanced?
I own a few X-Pods and want to play the X-Pod "Play-Off" game again. While I want my game pieces to look neat, I also want to win.
Does each X-Pod have the same chance of winning? If not, then I would be interested in knowing which one is superior.
Link to rules

Do you have a link to the rules?

Robo Pod would definitely be superior. I know this because it is green and it is robots.

Then, Special Edition Black Robo Pod is surely even better!

Thanks for reminding me about this game.  My kids are now starting to get old enough that I can get it out again.

This is veering into B&CGSE territory. The pieces are Lego but the question is entirely about game balance and play strategy.

@Joe Wreschnig I'm ok with that.  It's like you other question (http://bricks.stackexchange.com/questions/365/under-what-conditions-are-the-lego-boardgame-dice-unfair-and-by-how-much) and if we had the game rules we could answer this question. It would be cool to analyse this.

It's been a while since I've played, and looking at the strengths and weaknesses of the individual pods does seem to make them look fairly equal.  However, I distinctly remember that some sets had units that gave a slight advantage over other sets, at least for my style of playing.
For instance, the Aqua Pod has several units that can deconstruct and eat, but could not move very far.  (Deconstruct reduces your opponent's unit by 1 level.  Eat deconstructs an opponent's level 1 unit and raises your unit up 1 level.)  While the Aero Pod has several that can move far and deconstruct, but do not have the special ability to eat.

In several games between these two Pods, I was able to win by moving next to my opponent's unit, battling till he was down to level 1, and then just eating him, thus raising the level of my unit back up by 1.
It may be that certain combinations of sets are more equally matched than others, or it could be that I was just better than my opponent :)

Edit:
(For a copy of the rules, starter kits, boards, and strategy guide see this question.)
The Advanced Rules and the Advanced Strategy Guide give a few pointers that can help your game.
For building a board, the Advanced Rules suggest:

You should probably have at least 5 obstacles and no more than 9 for a balanced game.

As for strategies, they vary based on the abilities of the Pod you have chosen, and your opponent.  (For complete strategies for each Pod against all other Pods, see the Advanced Strategy Guide)
Aero Pod

Using Obstacles to Your Advantage
The chief advantage of the Aero Pod is that most of its units can fly or jump. This means that yellow units are much less restrained by obstacles than units of any other Pod.  On an arena filled with obstacles, Aero Pod units are, at their best, able to avoid getting boxed in and to score quickly. On less blocked arena, the Aero Pod has less of an advantage, but its jumpers and fliers can move over enemies, while its raiders can move through them.

Aqua Pod

Undersea Dining
Similar to the Wild Pod, the Aqua Pod has a well-balanced set up units and a few different strategies from which to choose.  Pay attention to what team you’re up against to determine your strategy. Fast opponents require deconstructing units that have block them at choke point; slow opponents should be outrun with quick moving and jumping units. And don’t forget about your eat ability. Eating gives you an edge in deconstruction stand-oﬀs, so be sure to have some level-one units of your own on the board to rebuild and preserve your powerhouses.

Arachno Pod

Getting the Opponent in your Web
Arachno units are pretty quick, so you’ll probably want to play an aggressive game where you try to score early and often. The web ability is a great aid to this strategy. Since web has a range of two, you’re able to maneuver your units easily to freeze opponents before they get near you. Use web to incapacitate oncoming units and either zip your faster units by to score, or moving into your deconstructing units to ﬁnish the job. Arachno works particularly well on open boards, where you can web opponents without blocking oﬀ your paths to the opponent’s row.

Auto Pod

Quick Scoring
Auto Pod has the fastest units in the game. It has very few jumpers or ﬂiers, but it makes up for that lack in raw speed. What this means is that an Auto Pod player has a good chance of getting control of the board and scoring points earlier in the game.  This strategy works best on open boards with few obstacles to block your units' movement. On more crowded boards, Auto Pod players have to rely on their pushing, carrying, and limited deconstruction abilities to break the opponent's line and create a path on which to score.

Dragon Pod

Winning with Super-units
The center of a Dragon Pod team is its dragon unit. These four level units are easily the most powerful in the game, so using them eﬀectively is the key to victory. First, the number of units you can use with any individual dragon is limited, so picking a dragon will basically determine your strategy for that board. Your secondary units are fairly weak, so use the dragon aggressively and don’t be afraid to lose a level if it means taking out a key opponent. Still, be sure to have a couple good back-up cards and maybe even some Build and Place X-tras in case the dragon goes down.

Monster Pod

Scaring Your Opponent Stiff
Monster Pod is a slow, steadily moving team with a powerful special ability: scare. What makes scare so powerful is that scaring happens automatically at the end of a turn. This means that every scaring unit freezes all adjacent opponent units every turn, even if you didn’t activate it. As a result, scaring units are terrific to leave near important intersections on the board to stop enemy movement. On the other hand, combining a scare unit with a carrying unit will give you an engine you can march across the board, and deconstructing frozen units is an easy way to clear the board.

Robo Pod

Keeps Going and Going...
Robo Pod units have the most deconstructing units of any Pod so a lot of Robo Pod strategies are about taking apart your opponent's pieces. Use this advantage to guard your home row and hunt down enemy units to keep them from scoring.  Robo Pod units also have an additional advantage that aids them in deconstruction - almost every Robo Pod unit continues to function at its lowest level. This means that your units have to be removed from the board to stop them from moving. Robo Pod works best on boards where there are choke points that its units can guard, and from which it can slowly march its units to victory.

Wild Pod

Eating and the Value of Food
The Wild Pod has the most diversity of all of the Pods, which means that you have a few strategies to choose from. You'll want to tailor your units carefully for the Pod you're facing. The advantage that you have is that your units can eat. This means that any Wild Pod unit on the board can potentially reconstruct itself and that you have a unique edge in deconstructing others. Be sure to make use of the level one "food" units that the Wild Pod has. More powerful units can be accompanied by a couple of level one units that can restore its levels and make it safe from deconstruction.  Using eat well can decimate your opponent's units and allow you to keep your super units for the duration of the game.

Summary
The important thing is to know both your and your opponents strengths and weaknesses, but even the best strategy can be overcome by someone with no strategy.  You must be prepared for anything and have a full knowledge of your own capabilities and how to use them.

Maybe Peeron/PICSL would be interested in hosting these?

I have removed my previous comments about where to host the instructions to clean this up a bit.

This is a great answer. If you can add a bit more comparing how each pod is different then you have a good chance of winning the bounty I've started.


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Are there LDraw files for the standard Heroica components?
I'm using MLCAD to design and polish some Heroica maps. As I go I've made various LDraw files for the common map components (6x6 tiles with 4 spaces, 4x1 hallways, etc.) as well as some aliases for simple objects in particular colors (e.g. the gold pickups).
Am I duplicating work someone else has already done? If no one answers this in a few days I'll probably answer with my own archive.
Note that this is not a request for the Heroica sets in LDraw format - I've got manuals for that. I'm more interested in getting parts files that can be used to rapidly build my own levels.)

I'll bet you're the only one combining bricks.se, Heroica and LDraw for the moment.

Yeah but at the very least I can hope someone here sees something on another forum I missed. Although Heroica seems to have surprisingly little buzz on the Internet so far.

I've just seen the value in this, and whole heartedly agree with the sentiments. Not sure how many "typical" players will be up to speed with LDraw though ;)

I've uploaded the Heroica LDraw parts I made to my website (and now there's even a site to go with it).
My Parts

Paths of length 2 and 4, and rooms in 2x2, L, and J shapes. The base
and half the tiles can be recolored; the remaining tiles are fixed
at dark gray.
The length 3 bridge over a 4x4 water tile, used twice in Fortaan.
The standard potions with fixed colors, and recolorable potion
templates.
The "character sheet" model. The 1 x 4 cross plate is recolorable.
A treasure chest, fixed as brown.
A gold piece, fixed as pearl gold.
A health piece, fixed as red.
A torch, fixed in color. This uses the unofficial 64647 LDraw part,
included.
A closed gate. The standard door piece is not available in the LDraw
parts library or unofficial list, but the gate used to link Nathuz
and Fortaan is.
A magic door, fixed in color.
Rocks, recolorable and standard dark gray.
The ship dock, from Draida Bay, and the regular brown starting
space.

Included Unofficial Parts
These parts are real Lego parts, but have not made it into the LDraw
part library yet. I've put them on the same site for convenience.

62808 - Minifig Key, by Andy Westrate
64647 - Minifig Plume/Flame Triple, by Philippe Hurbain. This is
used as the top of the torches in Nathuz.

Other Parts
Here are some parts that are invaluable, from the standard LDraw part
library. If you're going to make Heroica levels, they belong in your
MLCAD Favorites.

2343 - Minifig Goblet
3794 - Plate 1 x 2 with 1 Stud
3958 - Plate 6 x 6
30153 - Rock 1 x 1 Gem Faceted
41539 - Plate 8 x 8
64644 - Minifig Telescope
85863 - Microfig
87580 - Tile 2 x 2 with Groove and 1 Stud

What do they look like?
Here's a POV-Ray render of the map I'm working on now, sans greebling. Except for the 16x16 center the rooms and paths all use the premade parts, and it features the chest, gold, and potion parts also.

By the way, these are the first reusable LDraw parts I've ever made, so it's possible there's some really horrible failure in them.

I'll probably be checking these out soon, but they look great!


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Which BIONICLE combiner sets do official instructions exist for creating?
There is a diversity of BIONICLE combiner sets (sets made by combining multiple individual sets together) for various groups including Toa, Matoran, Bohrok, Rahkshi, Dark Hunters, and a number of Rahi species, listed here. They're encountered in the physical sets, in the comics and even in some of the movies.
Instructions for building some of these combiner sets can be found in the manuals for each of the individual sets used in making them. Which combiner sets are these?

Some of the "combiner sets" referenced in the wiki link above are in fact alternative builds. I don't think these should be counted... unless LEGO made instructions to build them, which I highly doubt.

Should this include non-bionicle sets too?

@Pubby8: If there are official instructions for combining with non-BIONICLE sets, I suppose they're fine.

I added in ThrowBot combiners. I don't know how to format it correctly.

@Pubby8: Oh, if you're referring to entire combiner sets that are outside the BIONICLE line, then no. Sorry I wasn't clear :S

I'll remove it then. If a ThrowBot question gets made then there is always the revision history to go off of.

@Pubby8 Yea ThrowBots and Hero Factory are outside the straight up Bionicle storyline

This can be the format we use for a community wiki
"official" name:
Set(s) Release Date:
Set(s) required:
Model Picture:
Link to instructions:
"official" name: Akamai
Set(s) Release Date: 2001~
Set(s) required: Tahu, Onua, and Pohatu(8531)
Model Picture:

Link to instructions: n/a
"official" name: Wairuha
Set(s) Release Date: 2001
Set(s) required: Gali(8533), Kopaka(8536), and Lewa(8535)
Model Picture:

Link to instructions: N/A
"official" name: Mata Nui Cow
Set(s) Release Date: 2001
Set(s) required: Pohatu(8531) and Gali(8533)
Model Picture:

Link to instructions: http://www.bzpower.com/Imaging/stories/mukau_instructions.jpg
"official" name: Mata Nui Fishing Bird
Set(s) Release Date: 2002
Set(s) required: Kohrak Va(8551) and Nuhvok Va(8555)
Model Picture:

Link to instructions: http://club.lego.com/en-us/BuildIt/BuildingInstructions/fishing.aspx (link now dead)
"official" name: Bohrok Va Kaita 1
Set(s) Release Date: 2001
Set(s) required: Gahlok Va(8550), Kohrak Va(8551) and Lehvak Va(8552)
Model Picture:

Link to instructions: n/a
"official" name: Bohrok Va Kaita 2
Set(s) Release Date: 2001
Set(s) required: Pahrak Va(8553), Tahnok Va(8554) and Nuhvok Va(8555)
Model Picture:

Link to instructions: n/a
"official" name: Bohrok Kaita Ja
Set(s) Release Date: 2002~
Set(s) required: Lehvak(8564), Kohrak(8565), and Gahlok(8562)
Model Picture:

Link to instructions: N/A
"official" name: Bohrok Kaita Za
Set(s) Release Date: 2002~
Set(s) required: Bohrok(8561), Tahnok(8563), and Pahrak(8560)
Model Picture:

Link to instructions:
"official" name: Wairuha Nuva
Set(s) Release Date: 2003~
Set(s) required: Gali Nuva(8570), Lewa Nuva(8567), and Kopaka Nuva(8571)
Model Picture:

Link to instructions: N/A
"official" name: Akamai Nuva
Set(s) Release Date: 2003~
Set(s) required: Tahu Nuva(8572), Onua Nuva(8566), and Pohatu Nuva(8568)
Model Picture:

Link to instructions: n/a
"official" name: Bohrok Kaita Ja-Kal
Set(s) Release Date: 2003~
Set(s) required: Lehvak-Kal, Kohrak-Kal, and Gahlok-Kal
Model Picture:

Link to instructions: N/A
"official" name: Rahkshi Kaita Za
Set(s) Release Date: 2003~
Set(s) required: Turahk(8592), Lerahk(8589) and Kurahk(8588)
Model Picture:

Link to instructions: N/A
"official" name: Rahkshi Kaita Vo
Set(s) Release Date: 2003~
Set(s) required: Panrahk(8587), Guurahk(8590) and Vorahk(8591)
Model Picture:

Link to instructions: N/A

That's pretty well the extent of my knowledge and instructions, so if anyone knows of any more models, be sure to add them, even if your knowledge isn't complete.


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How many copies of each set are produced?
Is there any way to find out how many copies of a set were produced? I would like to know how rare some of my older sets actually are.

There is an indication of the rarity of a set in the LEGO Collector's Guide.
I assume it's the same in the second edition as well, as this is what the two reviews of it on Brickset have to say:

Rarity Rating. This would be more useful if it represented actual production or sales figures instead of market trends.

The rating system is the same, and unfortunately the explanation (do you still remember? "This rating evaluates the rareness of the certain item (and not its value!) considering a complete item in very good condition including building instruction, all stickers AND box (if applicable). Markets like eBay, BrickLink and other sources have been considered for this evaluation - on a global level."[copied from my feedback to the 2008 edition review]) has not been extended, highlighted or moved to a place where it will be less ignored. Additionally, this rating will always give room for discussion, especially as it would require continuous updates.

So you can see both reviews consider this rating system to be pretty much useless (and the reviews of first editions weren't better) and it doesn't indeed compare to actual figures. However, the fact that they weren't able to secure any is probably a fairly good indication that these figures are not available to the general public. (And knowing LEGO, there's a chance that they haven't kept figures themselves from the distant past anyway.)
So while this is far from an actual answer to your question, the rarity rating of the Collector's Guide is probably the closest you'll ever get. Maybe a future edition will have more, but I wouldn't count on it.

Sadly, this is probably the best answer we'll get. However, if anyone has numbers (or even informed estimates) for any specific mainstream sets, I'd be interested.

I feel the same way.


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How should I create a Heroica scale graveyard or crypt room?
I've recently started playing Heroica with my sons, and we want to take this further, so I'm looking for some suggestions on modelling a graveyard or crypt room.
As an example, here's a model of the official "study" element on a 6x6 plate:

In general, each room is designed to sit on a 6x6 or 8x8 plate, and will have path elements on it for the characters and treasure to be placed.

Crypts don't offer a lot of color possibilities, I think, so I'd try to take an approach using texture. Replacing bricks with plates, and then some of the plates with 1x1 round plates or empty space gives a "broken stone" feel.
Obviously, crypts also need coffins. You can use a 1x2 plate with a 1x2 tile on top for a closed one, or a 1x1 tile and 1x1 plate and put a slightly angled 1x2 tile on top to give the impression it's been opened.

You can try making a few "entrances" as a stone roof supported on pillars. Again, there are some 1x1 round plates to give a hint of a carved relief along the top.
Another common bit of crypt imagery is a catacomb with endless recesses carved into the wall for bodies. A 2x1 plate sandwiched between two 2x2 plates gives a similar effect, and there are several options for what to put in the blank space - or just leave it empty.

For the end I'd imagine a fancy raised altar where the necromancer / lich / mummy / etc. is. Some bright colors here will really stand out even if the build is simple.

For a graveyard outside the crypt, I'd use a combination of the same arches, some simple gravestones, and some of the tall, thin trees from Fortaan. Using some 1x2s with 1 stud you can get a good gravestone layout.

These are great - I'd almost wished they were separate answers so then I can upvote them all ;)

Neat, but seriously, it needs a spider - no graveyard is complete without a spider.

@Joubarc: Spiders are actually a standard Heroica monster, so I didn't feel a need to add them. :)

Come on... It needs slime creatures.

I'll need to check these games someday. (Honestly, I haven't been that impressed by the other LEGO games so far)

@Joubarc: As written they are definitely aimed at the 8-13 crowd. But there's enormous room for variant rules to make them more difficult and add depth.

My sons (4 & 6) have been really enjoying the main Fortaan set, including playing as the monsters :) They're certainly better than some of the smaller games, although we've also really enjoyed Minotaurus

Here is my first take on a graveyard. The graves aren't too great, as the fence is what I wanted to show all along. In case it's not obvious, it's attached to a Brick 1 x 1 with Stud on One Side and then it's jumper-plate-jumper-plate-tile. Unfortunately, that doesn't actually work1 (that's one of the drawbacks of LDraw modeling, it won't tell you)

So if you need fences, you could use something like this, but I don't like it that much:

And since I'm determined to show fence ideas (I can't figure decent tombstones), I can also propose these two (which would probably both be rejected by LEGO quality as they stress parts):

One other solution is of course a simple wall:

And finally, this is another take on the 8x8 plate:

1. Why it doesn't is left as an exercice for the reader. Should be easy.

Why's that not going to work? You've also got some 1x1 plates in there? Looks good to me.

I'll be honest, it took me some time to understand why too, so I'll let you search :-)

Is that jumper fence supposed to use 1x1 plates? If so, wouldn't it require a 1x1 plate with a hole in the stud?

@Zhaph-BenDuguid My guess it that the 1x1 can't connect to the 2x1 in the middle as they don't have hollow studs.

Mr.ShinyandNew安宇 and Pubby8 are correct, a 1x1 plate with a hollow stud doesn't exist. There is a Plate, Round 1 x 1 with Open Stud which would be a suitable replacement, but it exists only in white.

Yeah, good catch there. The other option would be 3614 Plate 1x1 Round with Towball, but that's not ideal either: http://www.peeron.com/inv/parts/3614

@Zhaph-BenDuguid yes, but doesn't exist in black either

True, just "old grey"

Forgot to mention - the Fortann set actually comes with a fence peice - http://peeron.com/inv/parts/30055

Using fence elements to make fences? Where's the fun in that?

@Joubarc: That's the spirit. Great idea for building fences in this answer. Using finished molded fence bricks takes the fun out of it. You could of course use a 1x1 without stud on the first one, and just have the last 3 part bit standing loose (don't breathe...)

I only just realized that the first version isn't impossible to build any more, since there is a new version of the jumper plate which allows for a regular stud to be connected in the middle of the underside. Yay!

The official set Heroica Ilrion (3874) takes place in a sewer leading to a crypt with a vampire boss and altar set-piece:

It has also added coffins, using a 2x1 plate with a jumper on top (mechanically they're treasure chests that have a chance to spawn enemies):


text:
How can I make micro-scale water?
This is totally boring:

How can I add some variance to it that helps to distinguish a rippling lake from a raging ocean from a fast-moving river, while keeping a look that's appropriate for micro-scale landscapes?

It's boring, but when you need to cover a few tables with ocean, you get used to it very fast.

The 1x1x2/3 slopes would be ideal for making waves, etc.:
 and  or the 1x2 options.
Along with some blue tiles you could make some great waves:

Obviously, if you don't want them breaking, keep the white fronts blue.
Also, if you have some Navy blue tiles you can create currents of colder water - if you've ever watched large bodies of water you'll notice they have strips of different shades running through them.
Stick to tiles on the plate rather than the 2/3s height for lakes, or for some good ripples use the Round Dish 2x2 Inverted:

Transparent parts (slopes, tiles) work very well too

Good call @joubarc

Put the transparent on top of the blue baseplate and use different colors of transparent... you can get some very interesting effects that way

Try using combos of Trans-clear and Trans-blue studs to make a nice, clear foaming water affect. Studs can be bought in extreme masses  on Bricklink for like, 1¢. So there's no trouble.

Here is David Lee using transparent bricks to create nice waves
Here is Mark of Falworth using another technique involving loose bricks of different colors.

The second one is particularly impressive, but both of those are minifig scale, not microscale.

oops. I somehow skipped "microscale". I'd use the same techniques regardless.

Use a blue stud and put a flat round Lego brick on top of it to make the beautiful ripples.


text:
Is there any application to keep an inventory of owned sets and pieces?
I'm looking for a desktop application that keeps track of sets and pieces owned. Ideally something that would look up LEGO databases such as Peeron or others in order to add the pieces in a set automatically once on is added. Similarly, said app could tell you which sets you could build with your current pieces, much like Rebrickable.com, as mentioned in a previous question.

Personaly I would recommend SAP.

Coyote, a link?

I know of no desktop applications that have functionality like Rebrickable, but an API has recently been released which would enable any applications to integrate with the site and display this kind of information. I know of one such application currently being developed but not ready for release yet.
disclaimer: I created Rebrickable.

After the answers here and much much browsing, I think Rebrickable comes closest to what I wanted, thanks for creating it. I don't know if I should credit this answer, as @Joel Cohen was actually the first to suggest Rebrickable in a comment... Help?

There is a tool called BrickStore that might do what you want. It is tightly connected to BrickLink.

As far as a desktop app for inventorying pieces, I personally use Brickstore as suggested by @Superkalle. Although I use it primarily for preparing Bricklink orders rather than a catalogue of my spare parts and/or sets.
Should you be interested in an alternative that may be more suited to keeping track of pieces you own, there is 'Parts Catalog' from Bong 69 Productions.
From their website:

Parts Catalog is a program used to inventory your collection of Lego parts. The main goal is to be able to check 2 list to see which parts are missing. To build your list you could just download certified list of Lego sets and Combine the list. Then add any single parts that may not be from a set.

Features list (from their website):

Make and save your own inventory list
Combine and save inventory list
Sort parts by Part Number, Description, Color, or Count
View an image of the part (if an image is available)
Compare 2 list to see which parts are missing.
Compare 2 list to see which parts you have.
Make an inventory list from Ldraw dat files.
Open/Save a list in the Peeron (.prn) format
Open/Save a list in the CSV (.csv) format
Open/Save a list in the XLS (.xls) format
Open a list in the Bricklink XML (.xml) format
Open/Save a list in the Bricklink (.blk) format
Open a .htm inventory file saved from the peeron site.
Render images using LDraw dat files
Zoom and Rotate images that are rendered with LDraw dat files
Download inventories from peeron
Make labels from LDraw files


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Can I use the WeDo USB hub with normal Linux distributions?
I haven't found a lot of detail on the WeDo USB hub.  Is this device usable with Linux?  I found one article that indicated the OLPC XO had support for it, but it implied there was custom support added for that particular system.  And this ad implies it will work with Linux.
Has anyone used this with a regular Linux distribution?

Is this a questions for super user ?

No, I'd say Unix/Linux, Ask Ubuntu, or here, and this seems like the most on-topic place.. If we're going to absorb Mindstorms we need to support questions like this. But I don't think we need a linux tag.

@JeoWreschnig: I don't think the Mindstorms tag is appropriate for this question; WeDo appears to be completely independent from Mindstorms.

@retracile, you raise a good point. From this post that I came across (http://www.welltrainedmind.com/forums/showthread.php?t=261433), WeDo's relationship to Mindstorms is similar to Duplo's relationship to regular Legos.

I'm using the LEGO WEDO HUB with pure JAVA controlling the USB (Linux, Mac, Win), if someone is interested please write back

Yes please.  A link to sources would also be useful...

Lego's education catalog implies that the WeDo software is required for the hub to work. It states:

The two-port hub controls motors and sensors, transmits power and data
  to and from the computer, and is automatically detected by the WeDo™
  Software when connected to the computer.

I found some info regarding WeDo software, the manual has this to say:

Q: What is the full detailed information on the compatibility with different platforms?
A: The WeDo™ software 1.1 is supported on Windows XP and Vista operating systems with the latest service packs. It is also supported
  on the Mac 10.5.xx operating system with Mac Intel processors. A
  minimum of 512 MB Ram is required and 300 MB of hard disc space. The
  WeDo software 1.2 is supported on Windows XP, Vista and Windows 7
  operating systems with the latest service packs, as well as the Mac
  10.5.xx and Mac 10.6.xx operating systems with Mac Intel processors.

In general, Lego software seems to be supported only on OS X and Windows XP, Vista, and 7. All of the software mentioned in the Lego catalog (Lego Mindstorm Education NXT Software) indicated support for OS X 10.4 or later, and Windows XP, Vista, and 7. Linux support was not mentioned.

The hub doesn't have any intelligence on its own and so can't work independently. It doesn't even have a power source, as a matter of fact. To be honest, compared to the NXT, is seems a bit pointless, but I suppose it's a good start for kids.

You can use WeDo with MIT Scratch 1.4 according to http://info.scratch.mit.edu/WeDo, and Scratch runs on Linux- and this thread https://lists.launchpad.net/scratch/msg00269.html indicates that the Linux Scratch does work with WeDo.

I've just discover that the WEDO USB Hub just send to the motors 5V instead of 9V, so that's stopping me for doing a lot of stuff. Does anybody know how to add a separate source power and only send and read data from the USB Hub?

I think this would be better posted as its own question, rather than as an answer here...

For what it's worth, I have recently found that the LEGO WeDo hub connection works just fine on the Raspbian distro that comes with a Raspberry Pi, but it's not working on an Ubermix (Ubuntu) distro that I put on some Dell laptops.
See my post on this at http://scratched.media.mit.edu/discussions/bugs-troubleshooting-suggestions/scratch-wedo-linux-distro-specific-issues .


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Where can I find LEGO X-Pod Playoff rules and printoffs?
Where can I find X-Pod Playoff rules? LEGO doesn't seem to be hosting them anymore.
Asked because of this question. Hopefully it can be mirrored on a few sites so that it doesn't disappear again.

Here are the PDFs donated by Friend Of George. Here are the unit catalog PDFs.
The starter kit for each pod has an inventory list, a set of cards containing units which can be built, and a set of X-TRA cards.  The cards and inventory list can be printed on card stock for better durability.
The Advanced Rules contain additional rules and Advanced X-TRA cards for the game.
The Advanced Strategy Guide contains some tips on how to best choose and use your units, along with movement and placement strategies.  It also gives sample sets of units and strategies for each Pod against each of the other Pods.
The boards were generated from the website with no obstacles for maximum flexibility.  Bricks should be used for these and placed where desired.

These PDFs appear to be missing a lot of instructions - the starter kit PDFs have only eight unit models but the advanced rules say each pod has over 25, from which you should select 10.

I downloaded everything I could find from LEGO at the time.  I must have missed something.

The Flash site had a "Units Catalog" with a "Print All ___ Pod Plans" button. You can still see the SWF at http://cache.lego.com/eng/flash/create/games/x-pod_playoff/xpod001.swf?sw20=http%3A%2F%2Fcache.lego.com%2Feng%2Fdownloads%2Fcreate%2Fgames%2Fx-pod_playoff%2F&sw2=http%3A%2F%2Fcache.lego.com%2Feng%2Fflash%2Fcreate%2Fgames%2Fx-pod_playoff%2F but the button itself is no longer functional.

@JoeWreschnig I seem to have all the models, however they are all very low quality black and white. Will post if nobody has the additional pdfs.

@Pubby: I scoured the Internet for over an hour today and had no luck. If those have the unit stats as well as the different levels, I'd say that's definitely worth the bounty. (The colors are weirdly off on a lot of the Play Off cards anyway.)

@JoeWreschnig You should post that cache site as an answer.  You can still download all of the rules and starter sets.  It's a shame that the units catalog is broken though.

I found here a link to the LEGO website on archive.org with the X-Pod playoff section intact.
The download links for the rules and starter kits still seem to work.
The units catalog is slightly broken, but I was still able to print all of the unit catalogs into PDF format using PDFCreator.  For them to print correctly, click on the Advanced Rules tab, then go back to the Units Catalog tab.  Click the button for the units catalog you want to print.  Select a unit from the list and click Print All Pod Plans.
The arena generator works also.
(Thanks to @JoeWreschnig for finding the cached flash file to give me the correct terms to search for.)

I did notice that the "Print all" option for the Wild pods seems to replace the last two (Vampire Bat and Wasp) with the last page from the Robo pods - did you see that?

Yes.  If you click the advanced rules tab, click on the Units Catalog tab, and then select the pod and click on one of the units of the pod, it will print correctly.

I have no idea how you figured out the sequence of menu clicks necessary to make that work reliably, but it does. Thanks!

Yep, it seems 3rd time lucky for me there.

@JoeWreschnig For me the last page was replaced by the Aero Pod's last page (which was the first unit I had clicked on).  I figured if I could reset the page somehow I could click on the unit I was trying to print and get it to work.

Recently, I found a link to a website that has everything the Lego website had in a PDF format. Here it is: http://korewanetadesu.com/pages/lego/xpod.html


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How can I get my NXT to turn on - all it does is softly click?
Recently when I plugged my NXT brick into my PC I clicked on the wrong option and now all it does is clicks when I turn it on? How do I get it back to a usable state?

I have the same problem. My NXT still doesn't work. Does anyone have any other ideas how to fix it? My NXT is always in the "Samba mode" (Click...click...click...click...) I tried all I know. I don't see any device that could be the NXT in the device manager. I'm using WIN10.

If you are using NXT-G, the software that comes with the NXT set, then here is what you do:

Get into NXT-G, start a new program.
Select the tools option, and from the drop-down menu, select "Update NXT Firmware..."
Plug your USB cable (one comes with the set) into your NXT. Don't try using bluetooth, as it won't work.
Click the download button on the interface which popped up at the end of step 2.
Don't unplug your NXT, wait until it reboots with its firmware loaded.

Congratulations! You have just brought your NXT out of SAMBA mode!

This means your NXT is spoiled and needs reseting. This is usally caused by unplugging before the program downloaded.

To reset

1) Completely disconnect your NXT from the computer (no USB connection).
2) Remove all external BlueTooth dongles from your computer, and turn BlueTooth off on the computer (just to be sure).
3) Reboot the computer (this is to make sure no other application is trying to compete for the USB port).
4) Restart the Mindstorms application (and, if possible, don’t start any other applications).
5) Remove one battery from the NXT for a couple of seconds, then reinsert it.
5) Push the NXT reset button firmly for five seconds (make sure you actually press it, and press it for the whole five seconds).
6) Now (with the NXT clicking and the environment up and running), connect the NXT to the computer via the USB cable. Preferably use a “primary” USB port, one on the computer itself and not on a keyboard or monitor.
7) On a PC, you can go to the device manager and check to see if the NXT shows up in “Firmware Update Mode” (if not, you may need to uninstall and reinstall the software and drivers)
8) Update the firmware to 1.03 using the “update firmware” under the tools menu.
9) If this does not work, try briefly (one second) pushing the reset button again.
If the above sequence does not work, try repeating steps 1-9 but using a different USB port on the computer.


text:
Does longterm storage in a connected state harm the studs/tubes?
Does storing bricks in a connected state lessen their longevity?

After researching the question further via some local AFOL, the answer appears to be "No". The tube/stud system remains robust if stored in a connected state. Connectivity issues arise after the studs/tubes begin to wear down due to excessive usage or the elements become cracked. Simply storing a model intact does not lessen the life of the bricks. However, storing LEGO elements out of direct sunlight is recommended.

I have some standard Red 2 x 4 Bricks that have been stuck together in the same configuration since the early '90s, I just separated one and tested it compared to another Red 2 x 4 Brick from the same era, (and probably the same basic building set), but stored loose, and I could not discern any real difference in clutch power.
This is of course highly subjective and a very small sample size, but for at least this one brick 20+ years of being stuck to another brick has not had any noticeable effect on its clutch power.
I would think that other factors such as temperature, exposure to UV light and frequency of use will have a much larger effect on the clutch power of LEGO than being stored stuck to other LEGO elements.
An interesting and related point is discussed in another LEGO Answers question, 'Are transparent neon Lego bricks made from a different plastic than usual?', in which it is stated that elements made of polycarbonate should not be stock together as polycarbonate in contact with polycarbonate creates a very tight bond. (Transparent elements are usually made of polycarbonate, wheres other elements are usually made of ABS plastic post circa 1963*).
Further reading:

LEGO Answers question: 'How can I store LEGO bricks as long as
possible?'
Brickset forum question on maintaining clutch power:
How do you maintain Clutch on Built Sets?
Answer to another LEGO Answers question mentioning 'optimal clutch power': 'Why are old LEGO bricks more brittle than new ones?'

*Link shamelessly plagiarised from @Joubarc's answer.

I can tell you for a fact that removing the tire from some of the older wheel design has a pretty sizable chance of breaking them.

This doesn't answer the question. Tires don't have studs/tubes, and those are breaking because the rubber degrades naturally, whether or not it's left on the wheel.

the wheel breaks when removed from the tire. It is especially true when removing them from the smaller tire. Keeping them assembled is the only way to not break these.
Do you feel it is useful on a longevity question enough or do you want me to delete this. I do not mind.

I had my childhood lego in a bucket for about 20 years. After opening it up again, I didn't notice any real damage. The older part molds for some pieces are more prone to breaking as they have thinner connections etc, but just because they were in storage does not seem to have affected anything.

Yes, but not very noticeably or quickly.
Keeping bricks assembled will always create stress on the bricks, and will gradually warp the plastic. However, the rate at which clutch power is affected, and to what degree is unclear, and depends on other conditions.
My most pronounced experience with this was a set (6085) that I purchased which had likely been assembled for 15-20 years. Although the elements were shipped disassembled, I had been informed that the model had stayed together, placed on a shelf, and had been dusted before shipping to me.
Although most elements assembled fine, without any discernible clutch loss, a few connections were slightly loose. Upon closer inspection, the loose connections were those where the "dust marks" lined up perfectly-- IE, those particular elements were assembled in that particular configuration for a long time.  Rotating those same elements' connection points resulted in normal clutch power, but using the same orientation was looser.
Granted, there are other concerns which may have affected this particular example, such as humidity, UV exposure, ambient temperature, etc. I expect that fluctuations in these other conditions will likely expedite the degradation of clutch in assembled elements.

Having them connected may actually increase longevity, at least for parts of the brick. This shields out light and air pollution. I have several LEGO bricks that were connected for 30+ years, and the sides exposed to air (and Los Angeles air pollution) were significantly more yellowed than the sides that were connected.


text:
How can I use more than three motors with one NXT brick?
I'm building Caterpillar Excavator with my NXT, and at the moment I'm trying to control 4 points of motion:

2 Caterpillar Tracks - These should be controlled independently to allow for cornering, etc.
Rotation of the cab/arm
Extension of the arm - Ideally I'd use more than on motor here, as I'd like to be able to move the bucket and segments of the arm independently, however I've got a mechanism that works to "extend and dig" in one motion.

Obviously as it stands, the NXT can only control 3 separate motors - so I'm not necessarily wedded to LEGO only solutions.

There are electrical multiplexers as mentioned, however there are also many types of mechanical multiplexers. The idea behind this is to use fever motors to do more.
The advantage is the reduced weight and the disadvantage is the increased complexity and lower flexibility.
For example, you can control both tracks with one motor. However instead of one motor making the threads more forwards and backwards, you remove the 'backwards' function and replace it with 'right-turn'. So when the motor drives forward, the bot moves forward, when the motor drives backwards, it turns right. You can't drive backwards or turn left however. A simple (but poor) implementation can be found in the R.I.S. 2.0 instructions.
While this is restrictive, you can do other similar tasks without loosing important functionality. Another old trick is the 'grab and lift' mechanism which both grabs and lifts an object in one movement. When you lower it again and it reaches the bottom, the grabber opens up. While you can't open the grabber while it is lifted, it normally isn't important.
See The snatcher by Laurens as an example, which keeps two motors for the threads, but uses this technique to only use one motor for the arm.
Another prime example is with pneumatics, using a single motor to both pump and control a switch. See DiMastero's differential solution. It will pump no matter which direction the motor is turning, however turning it one way will push the switch in one direction, and the other when turning it the other way.
(It will pump while the switch is switched from one position to another, but again, this is a minor drawback considering the gains.)
While the previous examples are solutions to specific problems, they highlight the ideas:

Do different tasks under different situations. (Drive on clockwise, turn on counter-clockwise.)
Chain several tasks together. (First grip, then lift.)
Do several things at once. (Pump, while controlling the switch.)

The first point on the list, doing different tasks under different situations, is the most easy one to make a general implementation. You can split up the clockwise and counter-clockwise direction of the motors, to control two different tasks. While a bit restrictive, it is useful it certain situations.
A less restrictive solution is the 2 to n multiplexer. One motor gives the power, while another motor controls which task to transfer the power to. ('n' can be quite large, however something like 3 or 4 is more realistic in moc's.) I have come up with a few other versions, including some which allows controlling multiple motors at once (limited to same direction and speed).
Example to your specific problem
Use a 2 to 3 multiplexer. Output 1 and 2 controls the rotation and arm respectively. The threads are done using an adder/subtracter mechanism, use the last free motor to drive it and output 3 from the multiplexer to steer.
I would position the multiplexer above the turntable so that you just need to transfer the adder/subtracter axle through it.

Some more examples as requested.
Here is a more advanced version of driving and turning with tracks using one motor:

When the motor is turning counter-clockwise the mechanism will work like normal, driving both tracks forward. However when it turns clockwise, the yellow knob gear prevents one of the axles from moving, causing the last differential to stop and this causes both tracks to move in the opposite direction of each other, making it turn on the spot.
The knob gear is the crucial part, as it prevents action depending on the rotation direction. Here is a more generic version:

Depending on the direction of the input, only one axle will turn.
Moving on to the actual multiplexers, here is a mock-up of a 2 to n multiplexer:

Notice that the black gear can slide on the two axles, so that it can connect to both the light-gray and the dark-gray gear, depending on the position. You could have as many gears/outputs as you want in theory.
I used this to create a pneumatic control station, which had 4 outputs, each controlling one pneumatic switch.
Here is a 3 to 4 multiplexer which uses transmission parts:

The dark-gray axle is the input, and the 4 light-gray axles are the output. Depending on the position of the red sliders, a different output is chosen. The interesting aspect of this one is that you can have two outputs active at one time, which is not possible with the 2 to n multiplexer.

As a final note I would like to point out that I have used all of these methods in actual RCX/NXT projects in order to do more than what I could otherwise have done with just 3 motors. They are not just theoretical solutions.
I do not see the maximum of 3 motors as a disadvantage, but as a limitation which challenges me to find other solutions to the problem so it can be done with just 3 motors.

Cheers for this - are you suggesting that the multiplexer is a physical solution (unlike the electrical solutions proposed in the other answers)? If so do you have an example of one built that I could look at?

Yes, it can be done as a physical solution. I will try to dig up some old photos (and perhaps take some new ones), however it will have to wait for tomorrow.

I added 4 examples. I had to recreate 2 of them, since the original photos were either too blurry, or that the actual mechanism was hidden away inside the construction.

Cool! I linked to this in a blog post of mine.

R.I.S. 2.0! I had one of those as a kid.

Mindsensors sells third-party parts that are compatible with the NXT.  They sell several motor drivers and multiplexers, for use with NXT motors, RCX motors, hobbyist servo motors, or by sending commands to a PF motor remote control receiver.
HiTechnic is another such company, and they likewise make a device that sends remote control signals for PF and train motors.
(It seems to me that a company in Ukraine also made a motor multiplexer, but I can't recall the details offhand).

There are two non-wireless ways that I know of.

One of them, (which is better most likely) is to use a Mindsensors Motor Multiplexer (Motor MUX for short), which allows the use of all motor functions and splits one port into several. Note that each multiplexer requires an additional battery box, making your robot heavier and less compact. Each multiplexer costs $55, and each battery box costs $8.

Another way is to use converter cables, and split an NXT port by connecting them like so. This technique is cheaper, and does not require an additional battery box. A drawback to using this technique is that you have less individual control over the motors. Both motors will need to turn at the same time, with the same power, and in either the same or the opposite direction depending on how you orient the connection. Furthermore, this method will negate access to the motors' rotation sensors, so movement will have to be timed.
This technique has some limitations, but if those don't matter for your creation, then converter cables are a nice and cheap alternative that helps preserve compactness. I recommend using it over the motor MUX unless your robot simply can't function under the constraints. For a demonstration of a robot using the Mindsensors motor MUX, see this video. To see a demonstration of a robot using the converter cable technique, see this video.

Everybody else has pretty much said it all, but there is one more thing I can think of.
The IR Link Sensor can communicate with Power Functions, RCX, and trains.
So you can use three NXT motors, plus, say, two Power Functions motors. (Only the NXTs will have rotations sensors, obviously.)
If you already have some PF kit, you will only need the sensor (£40). If you don't already have the remote, PF IR sensor, PF motors, and battery box, it will cost you a lot.
If you have the trains or RCX, you shouldn't need to buy anything new.
I have one of these, and use it quite a bit, it's quite a versatile piece of kit!

I built the 3 to 4 multiplexer posted above (thank you for posting that) but was able to tweak it into a 2 to 4 mux.  The axles that are connected to the large gears are used to select the outputs by rotating the large gears.

It ended up being too big for what I needed though so I went a different route and built a 2 to 4 multiplexer that uses a turntable to move the drive gear around to the various outputs.  You could easily add more outputs to this if you wanted.  Just be aware that unlike the larger 2 to 4 mux, only one output is active at a time with the turntable mux.

The LDD files, videos of these in action, etc are on my blog:
Lego Technic Two Input, Four Output Motor Multiplexers


text:
How can I wirelessly connect the NXT and an iOS device?
I've seen videos around YouTube (like this one for a car) that show an ability to control a Mindstorms set via iOS (either iPhone or iPod Touch).  I am just getting started with Mindstorms, but find this type of possibility very intriguing. How can I set this up? Should I use Bluetooth or something else?

As stated in the description of that video, the big issue is that the iPhone won't pair with uncertified devices:

The car is built with standard Lego Mindstorms NXT components. Since iPhone SDK does NOT allow using non certified devices (which are limited to other iPhones and some headsets etc.) I have used BTStack library.

I guess this is why there's an official app for Android, but not iPhone.
Note that the app itself is only available on Cydia, which I believe requires a JailBroken iPhone to run:

LegoDrive is available on Cydia. Just install using Cydia on your iPhone/iPod, enter your Lego NXT's device ID and you can use LegoDrive too!
LegoDrive (formerly presented as iCar) demonstrates how to control a Lego Mindstorms NXT robot using (rotating and tilting) iPhone over Bluetooth.

Edit to add (08-Jan-2013)
The recently announced Mindstorms EV3 includes the statement that:

LEGO MINDSTORMS EV3 will also include full iOS and Android compatibility out of the box.

While the new "EV3 Intelligent Brick" features:

New Linux-based firmware, a USB port and SD expansion slot [which] offer nearly unlimited programming and expansion capabilities

Simply go onto your Ipod/Iphone/IPad and search up Cydia in the app store. Now in Cydia search up LegoDrive currently today 7/31/2013 it is the the 3rd item on the list.

It's possible to control a NXT with the iPhone/Smartphone although this method requires either another iPhone, Smartphone, Laptop or PC with access to the internet.

The full programming and building instructions for the 'iPhoneRobot' can be found on BattleBricks. The source code for the server application and the NXT program is also available.
It's a clever way of controlling your NXT without jailbreaking your device, but it isn't a perfect solution. I'd like to try it out myself, but I find installing the server app to be too technical and the community that produced the instruction don't appear to be active any more.

Something like this app may come in handy:
http://itunes.apple.com/us/app/inxt-remote/id317399938?mt=8
Note that for this app you must have a computer on the same network and have a bluetooth device on that computer. It's a bit of a workaround - You may want to search for some other apps that can use built-in bluetooth.

Please provide some information about the app in the answer, such as its name and a brief description, not just an iTunes link.

3 reviews on this app in store. All of them say don't buy, doesn't work. Doesn't sound like a good solution. Not going to test it myself.

If you are looking for some info on sending commands over bluetooth, you might want to check out the link below:
http://www.robotappstore.com/Knowledge-Base/Programming-LEGO-NXT-Mindstorms/92.html
It's a pretty good introduction into sending direct commands to the NXT over bluetooth.  That's what all the videos are doing that you see.  What's convenient about this method is that it doesn't limit you to only using one particular type of software to communicate - where if you use the correct commands any type of software or programming language can be used.
Best,
Ryan


text:
Is there a convention for part and/or set numbers?
Is there any rhyme or reason to the way LEGO part are named? Failing that, is there any other sort of taxonomy that we can use to find specific parts?
Along the same lines, my impression is that smaller sets have larger numbers -- is there any truth to that? Is there anything that we can discern this from either part or set numbers?
Finally, where can I look up all these numbers?

Usually, the LEGO group doesn't seem to have much organisation, at least in the past. That's why you can find sets with two different numbers, or two different sets with the same number.
Now the keyword here is seem, as I suppose there was some logic to it even in the past.
But nowadays there is some logic, and even if not all of it is understandable, you can at least spot some key elements, such as:

When I was a kid and they started the 4 digits scheme, the first digit indicated the global theme pretty clearly. 8 was Technic, 6 was LEGOLAND, 77 were trains, and so on. At least for trains, they tended to use round numbers for bigger sets, ending in 0 or 5.
Now, the first digit seems to have lost its significance, and sets in the same theme are  usually attributed a range of numbers, with the small set getting the lowest number. It's not an absolute rule, and I guess it depends on availability or other factors.
Sets in the 10000 range are LEGO shop exclusives. Usually, you will usually only find them on Shop@Home or in LEGO retail outlets, but not in regular toy stores.
Sets in the 20000 range were used for the BrickMaster series, with each set accompanying a BrickMaster issue.
Sets in the 20200 range will seemingly be used by the "LEGO Master Builder Academy" sets
Sets in the 21000 range are architecture sets.
Sets in the 30000 range are usually small promotional polybags

In addition, there are 7-digits numbers floating around which are probably some other form of internal numbers. For specific things without a set number, that's usually the only thing you'll find.

For parts, you have to distinguish design ID (identifying a specific mold, regardless of color) and element ID (identifies a unique design/color combination).
I don't know how design IDs were or are attributed, but it seems there is now some sequential logic behind it. Note that changes in design which don't affect the functionality (hollow bars at the bottom of 1x bricks, for example) don't usually lead to a new design number (while peeron will append an "a", "b", ... to indicate the version, LEGO doesn't do that internally).
Element IDs used to be a juxtaposition of design ID and color ID, so a Black (26) 2x4 brick (3001) would be simply 300126. These numbers are still around for parts which existed when that scheme was used. 300126 is still the element ID of a black 2x4 brick.
However, at some point (not sure when), they changed this to use a 7-digit number for the element ID, which doesn't have a relation to the design ID or color any longer. These seem to be sequentially attributed, and it could be that they share the same sequence as internal set numbers (but that's just a guess, really). There are also numbers for individual instruction booklets, which ROSCO used to scan for directly on the LEGO site.

As for where to find these, that's more difficult. You'll notice I link a lot to BrickSet, that's because I feel they do a fantastic job of cataloguing sets. Peeron has a good database too, but it's usually slower.
For parts, you'll need to go to Peeron, or BrickLink, but they sometimes differ in their numbering when the official number of a part isn't known. Note that they usually use design IDs and not element IDs, although there is some work in progress regarding that.
Of course, while internal LEGO aren't exactly public, you can find design IDs embossed in elements, and element IDs in the back of all instruction leaflets. Also, the online pick-a-brick and the customer service "replacement part" function let you browse recent sets and see what the design and element IDs are for given elements.

Great answer -- thanks for taking the time. I'm sure many future Bricks users will benefit from it.

@Caleb you're welcome - if you feel it's the correct one, you may want to proclaim it by accepting it, too.

I usually avoid accepting an answer right away so as not to deter other answers. Looks like your answer is so comprehensive that nobody else has anything to add. ;-)

Don't think I don't feel shame for asking you to do it - I too would appreciate other answers, but I don't think it'll happen here.


text:
What are the practical bounds of a minifigure?
I want to make some minifigure-scale vehicles and devices, but I am wondering what the smallest possible minifigure enclosure might be.
I know minifigures are not perfectly square. Their arms and heads keep them from fitting in a standard 4x1x5 shaped hole while standing upright (not that I would imagine that looking very good in a model). When in recline with the back of their legs connected to studs, they cannot lie totally flat and must lie at a certain angle.
What I would like to know is the practical bounds of a minifigure with NO equipment(hats, parkas, backpacks, ect.):

In a fully upright position
In a fully seated position.
In recline.

It would also be a bonus if anyone would also give the bounds for a minifigure in these positions but with the maximum amount of equipment.

An African or an European minifigure?

I assume you want the bounds for a standard minifigure without accessories and head-gear. Some items (eg. oxygen tanks, fedora hats) make quite a difference to minifig size.

@Kramii Yes, just the basic legs, body and head. I had forgot to mention that in the question. But if any one would like to give some bounds for a maximum amount of minifigure gear, that would improve the answer

@Ambo100 Since a minifigure can not be connected by the back of the legs and be in a fully flat position, its back has to rest on the studs at a slight angle. Like I mentioned in the question, minifigures are not exactly square :/

What exactly do you mean by in recline? Lying down flat or at an angle?

@Ambo100 Since lying flat without being connected by any studs is very similar to standing straight, I imagine those answers could be interchangeable. Lying at an angle with the back legs connected to studs, what I consider to be 'in recline', would be a very different answer.

I go by the the old LEGO adage: What people don't see, they imagine. If you can't see the minifigures legs, you just need the space required to house the head & torso in the model.

Standing
The smallest area you can enclose a standing minifig in is just about 4x4x4 2/3 with the roof on:

To reach this limit, you need to use the panels and windows to make room for the arms and more importantly the head, which is larger than a 1x1 brick.
Seated
To enclose a seated minifig in the smallest space, you will need to ensure that you've tilted the body completely forward (i.e. over 90°), and again use panels to enclose the arms to achieve a 4x4x4 box:

Note that I've had to use two plates to lift the roof above the stud on the head - you can cheat a bit and lower it one plate if you use a roof with a hole in the correct place - in the photos I'm using a 3x4 tile with 4 studs that comes with the collectable Minifigures, and the head stud fits into one of the cylinders underneath, but the edge of the 2x3 plate won't fit.
Reclined
For a reclined minifig, I used a Slope brick, 33° 3x2 to provide some support, and the smallest space I could fit that into was 4x7x2 1/3, however over the legs it's only 1 1/3 (I don't have all the parts to hand to photo this one I'm afraid, but I have proved the concept with some bricks):

With Accessories
Picking the Wizards Hat and Air Tanks, I was able to enclose the minifig within a 5x4x5 2/3 (one deeper and one one higher than the standing minifig):

Again the minifig is angled to fit in this space so that the rim is horizontal, and once again there's judicious use of panels: 1x2x3, 1x2x1 and 1x1x1 Corners.

You have a good answer, but I was looking for multiple bounds, I have changed my questions to make that more clear.

Sorry, yes I meant to come back with the response for sitting upright and reclined - will try and get that out tonight - wanted to ensure that front piece would fit across the hands without them sticking out.

A minifigure with legs, torso, and head would be five bricks tall standing or four bricks sitting down. It's also one stud deep and two studs wide (four studs including arms)
With the arms and hands extended parallel to the thighs, the arms take roughly two and half studs worth of space from the joint of the arm. The image below show's a diagram of a minifigure sitting down on it's side.

If you were to adjust both arms forward like a boxer in a defensive stance (albeit sitting down) the minifigure's arms will take the same amount of room in a different possition.

Note though that the minifig head is wider than a 1x1 brick, which means a sitting minifig needs space behind it for the head - often achieved using a panel.


text:
How should I model a Heroica scale castle bedroom?
My son has requested that we add a bedroom to our Heroica castle. I'm looking for some advice on the creation of the bed area.
The Microfig characters are 1x1x2, and the rooms are generally designed to sit on a 6x6 or 8x8 plate, and will have path elements (Tile 2x2 with 1 stud [Part:87580]) on it for the characters and treasure to be placed.

I was wondering about the path elements. It's more or less obvious where they mist be placed, but are there specific guidelines or rules as to how many you must place on a 6x6 or 8x8 plate? On a 6x6 plate for example, not all available slots must be filled, but is just 2 OK? What about just one? 8x8 plates seem to be for boss monsters, does that imply more path tiles need to be present? (I guess I'll need to buy one of these)

No guidelines at all, but none of the official maps have two paths coming off the same side - so 1-4 total. How many you use is mostly about how many branches you want in the map.

@Joubarc Nope, no real guidelines, it can be anything from a strip of paths down one side, an "L" shape or a block of 4 in the centre: http://heroica.lego.com/en-us/Products/Default.aspx#3860 I've also just noticed that for more room, they sometimes use a Tile 1x2 with 1 stud length-ways (see the waterfall room here: http://heroica.lego.com/en-us/Products/Default.aspx#3857)

Yeah, I had noticed that bridge in Draida Bay and thought it was a nice touch - creating some illusion of danger and all. By The way, it also looks quite close to what I would have in mind for a bed: 2 1x1 round plates, then a 1x2 white tile, or 1x1 white tile with 1x1 cheese slope for the pillow. Anyway, thanks for the link, I hadn't realized there was a pdf with the rules there.

Here is my attempt on a 6x6 plate. I built only one wall for the image clarity, but maybe you'd prefer one opposite wall as well.
If you don't have the tile with the pillow, replace it with a 1 x 2 slope or something.

Construction details if it's not clear enough:

Don't worry, I've got the tile with the pack ;)

@Joubarc, 64647 is included with my Heroica part pack - from an unapproved version in the LDraw part library.

@Joe I hadn't looked in unapproved parts, thanks for the tip

Accepted purely for the four poster bed, (and the fact that it feels wrong accepting my own answer ;))

I went with the following set up - note that as the microfig is two bricks high, that means it's actually three studs long:

Castle Bedroom with bedside candle

Castle Bedroom with bedside candle (LDraw)

Nice to see both the LDraw rendering and a picture. And you're right, a 1x3 bed is more suitable for microfigs. But hey, my own bed is too short for me, so no reason they wouldn't suffer the same fate.

Cheers, we made for a quick game this evening ;)

So quick that you didn't even take the time to push the parts on the plate properly, or were you afraid you wouldn't be able to remove the jumper easily? ;)


text:
How to make a 1 ldu offset?
LDraw units are defined so that a simple 1x1 brick has a side of 20 ldu and a height of 24 ldu.
Using simple building techniques, it's easy to create 2 ldu offset, as illustrated in this picture, where the gap between the two red bricks is 2 ldu wide:

Of course, it's also possible to build any kind of offset, including 1 ldu, using continuous techniques such as parts gliding on axles, as illustrated in this picture:

But is it possible to build an exact 1 ldu gap without this kind of cheap trick?

I don't have an answer, but I do know this: the dimensions of basic bricks are multiples of 2 ldu. That means that any rectangular arrangement of bricks can't possibly have a gap of 1 (or any other odd number) ldu. Any solution to this problem will, therefore, involve bricks with odd dimensions or bricks placed at an angle (i.e. some kind of SNIR technique).

Good thinking, but SNIR is not what I have in mind here, no angles other than 90° are required.

Perhaps we could use the fact that bricks are not exactly 20 ldu wide: they are actually 0.25 ldu short at each end (which means that an ordinary lego wall has gaps of 0.5 ldu between the bricks)? Or that the studs on system bricks are approximately 0.25 ldu lower thatn the holes on technic bricks?

The fact that bricks are slightly shorter is not in my opinion a valid solution, as the distance between studs is what will ultimately be of importance. However, your idea using Technic bricks could actually work. I didn't think of that, but I have to admit it would be quite clever, not to mention you can go to 0.25 ldu offsets which is even better. See if you can work it out as an answer by having two red 2x4 bricks with a 1 ldu gap in between!

Yay, one more "don't-care-to-explain" downvote. Gotto love these.

I can only guess someone felt that there wasn't much practical use for the 1LDU gap? While I can't see the use, I can appreciate the technical challenge of achieving it.

Practical usefulness is debatable indeed. Very slow-sloped stairs, maybe? Even in the rare cases where it would be useful, continuous techniques are probably easier. So yeah, it's more for the challenge.

From my experiments, I found that a 1 ldu offset is perfect for holding a piece of thick paper. So it does have its uses.

(Note: my HDD crashed recently and until I get that fixed I can't really make LDraw images. I did create one for this beforehand, but it's on the same HDD.)
As jfyelle said the solution consists of using one LEGO element which has an odd ldu dimension somewhere. There is such an element, which isn't even new or particularly rare, that is, the Fence 1 x 4 x 2:

The centre part has a thickness of 6 ldu, which means that there are 7 ldu on each side. So if you add a 2x4 plate in it, the thickness of the plate (8 ldu) means that it will stick out by exactly one ldu. If your fence is one red brick, just put a 1x4 brick and a 1x4 brick with for knobs on the other to connect to the plate. Your two red bricks should then be 1 ldu apart.
I did learn that trick from Didier Enjary in his excellent Advanced Building
Techniques Guide which is well worth reading. That document contains a whole chapter on offsetting, but curiously the 1 ldu offset isn't listed explicitly; rather, the fence element and its 7 ldu offset is mentioned casually in the SNOT section.

Full credits and my thanks go to Didier Enjary. I tried to have him come and answer himself, but he declined. Note that he also thinks the practical usefulness of the this is very limited.

That was a hard question :)

It's even harder to judge the difficulty of a question when you already know the answer.

Well, I was impressed I could came up with the principle. I'm away on a business trip however and couldn't really afford to browse the bricks for a solution.  I'm sure I would have dismissed the puny fence.  By the way, for your crash, get yourself a standalone solid state hard drive and use syncback to backup your stuff.

@Joubarc: That's truly brilliant! Many thanks for the posing this entertaining little puzzle. It's been bothering me for days. Now I'm kicking myself. The first time I ever came across SNOT it used these very same fences!

There is another piece with an odd LDU dimension: the 1x1 bracket is 3 LDU thick. Paired with an Erling brick, which has a 4 LDU offset built in, it's a very compact way to create a 1-LDU offset, like psiaki has done here:

Then it's just a matter of translating the offset into a gap between bricks using standard bracket pieces like I have done here:

nice one, I didn't know about the 3 ldu bracket

LDUs are synthetic units for LDraw, a lego design software.
(I am personally convinced that the correct answer to your question is that there is no way to create a 1 LDU gap and that we are very fortunate to have the Erling brick to create a 2LDU gap.)
If you look at the 2 links provided, you'll see that both the Erling and the standard lego brick dimensions only have even values. There is no way to end up with an odd number in these conditions.
If there is a solution, it must involve a brick that has an odd dimension in some direction.

Your last statement is right on the spot, and there is one such element. (Also, note that for a 2 ldu gap, the erling brick alone isn't enough as it only has dimensions that are multiples of four. That's why you need a half-brick (10 ldu) offset too, which is what the jumpers are for in my picture)

Don't thank me, it's all automatic. You got half of the bounty award because your answer was the most upvoted since the bounty started. Well, you were halfway there, so it makes sense :-)

Using 42446 bracket with a regular 36841 bracket you can create pretty small builds.

This is a very very silly solution, but it should be possible with gears.
Get the ratio correct and you'll be at 1/4 rotation per 1ldu. Then slide in one of these:
, lock the axel and you're capable of any ldu spacing.

Sounds ingenious, but I'm not entirely convinced. It's nearly like a continuous solution (I'm looking for a solution with pure stud connections), and the calculations must be horrible.