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Which are the most expensive LEGO sets?
Which is the most expensive LEGO set at sale price?
And which one is the most expensive ever sold, even considering old ones at auction?

The most expensive (and second largest) LEGO set to date is the #10179 LEGO Star Wars Millennium Falcon released in 2007, with 5,195 pieces, and the cost of $500. Equally expensive (also $500), but much smaller is the recently released #75159 LEGO Star Wars Death Star with 4,016 pieces.
As far as what is the most someone paid for a LEGO set in a private transaction would be impossible to tell. You could use the BrickLink Price Guide for prices sets sold for in the last six months, and you can also do something similar for eBay, but there are many other places people buy and sell LEGO (social-media sites, forums, commercial websites, auction sites, and more). You would really have to narrow down what data you are looking for, and go from there.

@TheBrickBloccker I guess I should also check at auction houses for vintage LEGO sets from the '50s...

Surprisingly, older LEGO sets do not always equate to higher sales prices. Yes, rare VW buses from the early days of LEGO, especially in unusual prints, can fetch a high price, but most standard LEGO stuff is not worth a big premium if it's 40-50 years old.

In 2017 the $500 2007 UCS Millennium Falcon was surpassed by...

... an $800 UCS Millennium Falcon numbered 75192, which is currently still available.


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Why don't LEGO Minifigures have ears?
My five year old, Oakley, would like to ask

Why don't LEGO men have ears?

The very old figures,  with much larger heads, did have ears. http://www.lets-brick.com/eng/legomic/old/old_01.htm

I can not give you an answer on behalf of TLG, but I can give you some good reasons as to why Minifigures do not have ears.
Authenticity: Lego figures have never had ears. In fact, the first figures did not even have faces, or articulating limbs. They were very basic. Here is a photo showing the basic evolution of minifigures over the years. The first 'figures' were introduced in the mid-1900s.

Functionability: Adding ears to the head mold would greatly complicate things for Lego. Apart from the fact that ears would be likely to be broken off or get damaged, they would affect the compatability of heads.
All standard mold lego heads can fit just about every mold of hat and hair. However, if TLG started making heads with ears, they would have to redesign every single 'headgear' and 'hair' mold so that they would fit around/over the ears. As a result, for figures where ears are necessary, they are part of the headgear mold, not the head. You can see this in these two examples.

I hope that answers your son's question, and that you can simplify the reasons for him :)

Also, since a number of minifig faces have two expressions, one of the front and one on the back, the ears would be oriented wrong for at least one of the expressions.

True, I did not even think of that! That would certainly be an interesting spectacle :)

@nijineko That's a much later addition, though. It just prevents ears from being added now, but they could have been added earlier (in turn, preventing introduction of dual-faced heads).

I thought it might be worth including one of the precursors to the beloved Lego minifigures; Maxifigures (Homemaker Figures). They did have ears:

If you compare these hair pieces to those of common minifigures, you can see that there is an implied ear in the profile of the side:

And if you look at sets like 268 https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?S=268-1 you can see that today's minifigures were also there - but I'll let you look at the photos to see how they were used.

@RSchulz Even though I've seen sets like that before, it's still hilarious whenever they come up

While there are no visible ears recently deaf minifigs have been introduced.
I have Missions Animal rescue 60353 which has a Minifigure with a hearing aid. I don't have or know what other sets have deaf Minifigures. Probably this the closest to ears that can be seen.

Official pictures doesn't seem to to show this. Perhaps you could take your own picture and include in your answer to improve the visual aspect of your statement?

Didn't show up well on the camera I have.

Isn't that just a bluetooth earpiece, rather than a hearing aid? My grandma's hearing aid is located entirely within the earshell, while this appears to wrap around it.

@MMM it looks like a slightly old-fashioned style of hearing aid, still in wide use, except that they're normally skin-pink in reality.  The colour here is probably chosen  to make it more obvious. Your grandma's is probably a more expensive type.

Just to add to, or elaborate on, the other good answer(s); It may solely come down to the cost of production. I remember reading on several occasions that the molds were very expensive to make. Having a simplified shape make the part a more universal piece, not just for minifigure heads. That being said, I suppose they could have printed them on. But that has it's own potential problems mentioned in the previous comments.

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Recreating Mindstorms TRACK3R test track
I didn't realize until now that the 31313 Mindstorms packaging secretly contains a hidden test track for the TRACK3R robot. And the packaging is long gone with the trash. D'oh!

What is the simplest way of recreating the track so that it gets fully functional? Any web site where a blueprint can be found? What are the dimensions?
I have access to a color printer, color crayons etc.

For 15 bucks you can just buy the empty box on BrickLink. Here is where you can get it. I think it would be a better use of your time to fork over the 15 USD (plus a few dollars shipping) than to try and recreate the test track. Here is why:
a. the test track is made of a durable cardboard which can withstand an ev3 unit driving over it. Normal paper will likely tear, especially since the test track is shiny and smoother than normal paper. It would be difficult for rubber tires or treads to turn on standard paper.
b. You would have to find the correct size of paper, or worse, connect smaller papers to recreate the track. Of course, it wouldn't have to be perfect, but it does add an extra step.
c. You would have to spend the time coloring. It doesn't sound that bad, but you would need to be very consistent with coloring sections so that the 'color' sensor doesn't have any problems reading the test track.
In short, I think it would be much easier for you to just buy the box rather than try to recreate it.
HOWEVER
If you do want to try to recreate it, BrickLink lists the box as having the dimensions 48 x 37.8 x 7.1 cm. Since the box folds out, the surface area of the box will be the dimensions of the test track. (48 + 2(7.1)) x (37.8 + 2(7.1))= 62.2 cm x 52 cm.
 The rest would just be a matter of coloring it based on the images.
I hope that helps you out :)

If I try to print and source the colors from online pics... how picky is the color sensor? Must the colors be exactly right or could it be off a little?

As long as you're not running out of toner/ink and are printing good quality images, you should be totally fine. Just make sure that coloration is consistent and dark (this only matters if you're not going to print it, and you plan on coloring it in).

The link the the Bricklink seller will probably not be around on the Internet as long as this answer. I would suggest updating to a more generic link that will still be relevant a year or more from now.

Your comment has been noted, and an edit has been made accordingly.

Luckily I still kept the original packaging so I managed to open up the sleeve and take a picture.

The best photo I managed to take had some inconsistent lighting due to the flash and room lighting and the perspective wasn't the best so I decided it would be best to re-draw the board in Adobe Illustrator.
I deliberately didn't include some of the design elements that I didn't think were necessary. The original size was approximately 48 x 90 cm, these are the measurements I used for the Illustration.

You can print the above raster image or download the .SVG file. If you have access to a vector editor (Inkscape, for example, is free) you can re-adjust any of the elements however you like to better suite your needs.
If you don't have access to a large scale printer, I highly recommend you use the web service Rasterbator which converts large images into smaller pages that can be printed using smaller paper sizes such as A4.
Rasterbator has several additional features, allowing you to adjust the margins to allow you to overlap pages, giving you a neat finish. Finally, glue the pages onto a piece of cardboard or craft card to add rigidity.

You're a savior! I find it strange that Lego doesn't offer this as a PDF (and also excludes it from the list of items in the 31313 set) but thanks to your very impressive effort that's less of a problem now. To make sure that the dimensions get right when printing, could you please publish the measurements of the original?

Sure. The dimensions are approximately 48 x 90cm.

It turns out a workaround for the problem was to contact LEGO customer support and explain the situation. They swiftly sent me an empty 31313 box, delivered to my doorstep by courier.
You really can't ask for better customer support than that!

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Are there bricks sized between LEGO (classic) and DUPLO?
I am wondering whether there is a brick-type construction block toys on the market that would be sized between the LEGO (classic/original) and LEGO DUPLO. More specifically I am looking for a 3/4 ratio of DUPLO size.
The fact is that DUPLO is 8x the volume of the "classic" LEGO bricks. Measured in 2D dimensions, 4x4 classical LEGO "units" are the same width as a single 2x2 DUPLO brick. Also DUPLO has double brick height than classic. I wonder whether there is a brick where a single 2x2 brick would have the size of 3x3 LEGO classic units and also would have 3/4 of DUPLO height.

I'm pretty sure they only went bigger, not smaller.

Ok, but I do not limit myself to the original LEGO-brand products, I am looking for "noname" clone brands too...

One Single Stud Lego brick is 9.6mm H by 8mm W (technically 7.8mm).  So at the scale you are looking for we're searching for single stud bricks that are 28.8mm H by 24mm W.
After an extensive search among multiple Lego-style building block manufacturers, I can't find any that use the dimensions we're looking for.  Here is a list of companies I searched:
Best-Lock, Buggi, Built To Rule, Ciddi Toys, Hubelino, Intelliblox, Kre-O, Loc-Bloc, K'Nex, Mega Bloks, NanoBlock, Playbig Bloxx, Q-Bricks, Super Blox, Tente, Super Blocks, Unico
The Best-Lock Juniors were probably the closest I could find but the proportions are still off and I think 2010 was the last time the sold a Juniors set.
One of the biggest selling points most all of these companies made was that their blocks were compatible with other building systems (ie Legos) so chances are they wouldn't deviate from the standard sizes that Lego produces with their own special sizes.

While I don't know the answer for sure, as I don't know every construction brand out there, I see enough problems with the brick size you mention that I doubt anyone would manufacture it.
Children older than 5 all the way to adults prefer regular LEGO elements because they are big enough to create impressive models, yet small enough to add intricate details. They are also just the right size that most children and adults can easily manipulate with their fingers (compared to, for example, NanoBlok pieces that many adults find frustratingly small).
The larger LEGO DUPLO bricks are specifically sized for young children 1 1/2 to 5 years old. They are carefully sized to make sure young children won't be able to choke on them. The larger pieces also allow young children with less coordination to work with, and gradually improve their skills. Also, DUPLO and LEGO bricks are compatible in more than just they way they can stack on each other. For example, the holes inside DUPLO studs can accommodate certain regular LEGO pieces.
There is a lot of science and research that go into making LEGO elements; they must be age-appropriate in both theme and difficulty, they must be safe for a particular age-range, and they much fit into the LEGO system by being compatible with other pieces. The brick size you are talking about would be too small for young children (and thus not safe), and too big for older kids and adults. If there is no target market, why would anyone make such bricks?
The only scenario I could think of is perhaps an old brand from the 1950s-1970s, when LEGO type construction toys were just starting out and manufacturers were experimenting with different sizes and ratios. Once the leader emerged (LEGO), it made more sense for similar brands to align their products with LEGO, or differentiate themselves with a completely unique system (i.e. K'NEX, Lincoln Logs, etc.). What you are asking for is somewhere in between (still LEGO compatible but not quite), which would make little sense businesswise.

This answer has very little focus in answering the question. The question is merely asking if such a system of bricks exists, not whether or not it is practical. Of course, it is a valid point to mention that practicality would influence likelihood of existence, but going on for 3 paragraphs just to say that it would probably not exist felt like a waste of time for me to read.

I was trying to be as concise as possible, and I did say in the very fist sentence that I was not aware of the existence of such a brick size. I did feel though that it could be helpful to point out why such a building system wouldn't be too practical from three different angles; safety, ideal building element size, and business decision. Sometimes knowing why something may or may not exists can be enlightening. Hopefully someone with a more definite answer will chime in.

That is a valid point. I better understand where you're coming from now.

While I appreciate your answer I would argue over many its points. Seeing all the small niche construction toys brands (Eastern Europe etc.) I think there actually may be a market for a 3/4 Duplo brick - I would buy it straight away, because Duplo is clunky and expensive (for what you can build) and the small LEGO is just too small and difficult for a 3-5 year old. It is unbelievable that LEGO has not come up with it itself given that the market has not evolved at all it the many decades that passed since introduction of LEGO.

I think the issue has a lot to do with safety. For a 3-5 year old a regular 2x2 DUPLO brick size is really the smallest piece that they can't put in their mouth and choke on. Anything smaller is just not going to make it through the safety department and regulations. However if it could be demonstrated that older kids would be interested in such a size, there might be a market. For kids who are transitioning from DUPLO to LEGO, there is LEGO Juniors, which contains larger pieces that are easer to manipulate, but are fully compatible with regular LEGO (same stud sizes and dimensions).

There is the Lego System at 8mm stud width, and there are others at half the size (4mm) called Nanoblocks. Between the two we have Modulex at 5mm. Now 3 studs fit underneath of 2 studs in System, inside, at a ratio of 2:3. Now there is a 10mm size, 2× Modulex should fit to Duplo in the same way, but for helping with maths, only 1×1 size.
I asked question about Kids' building blocks on this website, they = between size.


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Where can I find icons of LEGO bricks?
I'm looking for a set of icons - maybe as SVG or something like that - for available bricks to use to label sorting boxes (non-commercial use)
Are the official brick icons used e.g. in build instructions somewhere available from LEGO or are there alternative sets available?

Are you looking for a few, or perhaps thousands of parts? Either way you might want to use renders of 3D models from the LDraw parts library.

Can you elaborate what you want to do with those icons, so we can better answer your question?

Well, actually I want to have them to use while labelling sorting boxes. So non commercial use

Rebrickable
For non-commercial use, the parts library used by Rebrickable is fairly extensive. More importantly the images have a very consistent presentation.
If you already know the part ID you can replace the use the URL below to get a direct link to the image. Just replace the X with your part ID.
https://img.rebrickable.com/img/pieces/elements/X.jpg

This won't work for parts that have alternative designs and some other exceptions.

LEGO Pick A Brick
LEGO's official Pick A Brick service has a relatively small collection of common pieces that are still in production. The images are of a consistently good quality although quite small.

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Can I get a JSON value from the internet without flashing a custom FW on EV3?
Got an EV3 for X-Mas. My old NXT brick was broken. So now I have a ton of motors and sensors and all. First project I'd like to create a Bitcoin piggy bank which performs some actions when it gets new funds. I would therefore need to query a JSON value every x seconds.
So is there a way to do this? Is there a way to give EV3 access the internet?

The easiest way to do this is with a 3rd party operating system. On the EV3, these generally run from a microSD card and do not touch the firmware in the flash memory of the EV3, so technically, you are not flashing a custom firmware (think dual-boot). The major 3rd party OSes are ev3dev, leJOS and MonoBrick. All of these have Internet access from the brick itself.
To do this using the official firmware only, you won't be able to access the Internet directly from the brick. So, you will have to have an application on a computer or a smartphone that accesses the Internet and relays information to the EV3 using Bluetooth messaging.

OK thank you. Good to know. Feeding a message from a PC would be an option also. I will look into these OSes. Used to run RobotC on my old NXT brick. Dual-Boot is of course even nicer so you don't have to wipe the FW when switching back and forth.


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What's the smallest LEGO component, based on its largest dimension?
There's already a question asking what the smallest component is.
However, according to its answer, the smallest piece would be the screwdriver.

It is pretty small, but its length is over 2 studs, perhaps even exactly three (I don't have one on hand to check). A regular 1x2 plate is smaller in that regard.
What is the smallest piece measured by its largest dimension?

The smallest I could come up with is the 1x1 round plate. Is there anything smaller?

Either this ring or these coins would seem a strong contender.

As would the "Lever small". I don't know their exact dimensions though.

@Valorum why not add these as an answer?

Or this one; http://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=24375#T=C&C=11

Because I don't know whether the dimensions/weights listed on bricklink are correct.

i think a lego friends crown would be the smallest piece like in comment 10. Or the bottom of a lever. I don't really think a screwdriver would be the smallest piece:)

This tiny tiara piece is smaller than the 1x1 round plate on all sides (middle piece in my image below).

The piece appear in seven sets, so any of those could be used to compare the size to other elements. But it really is a tiny piece that is sometimes hard to make out on the pictures. Here are a couple of images that might be more helpful: http://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?M=dp027s#T=S&O={} and http://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?S=41141-1#T=S&O={}

I also have the tiara myself, so if you really need an image against studs I can take a picture.

My daughter got some Friends sets this morning that had bows that seem about the same size as well.

Do you think you can add an image of it next to a 1×1 round plate?

I added my image to my answer as well. I put the tiara on a plate next to some other small items for reference.

I compared the tiara to the old style coins (with the denomination markings like 50 on them) and the tiara is < .5 mm shorter than their diameter. Without calipers, I can't be more accurate, but it supports your answer regardless.

Thanks for that. I also have to coins, but with such tiny elements it is hard to see miniscule differences.

I make the tiara about 6.8mm from your photo, but I added answer with a few of the other contenders as I have calipers and (access to) Friends sets.  These tiny pieces challenge the dexterity of children at the young end of the stated target age of the sets they come in

Since we are comparing only the largest dimension, I wonder the more spherical Lever Base might be smaller than the length of the tiara.

You'll have to ask my vacuum cleaner, It might have escaped me ;).
It depends on what qualifies as "Lego component", though. Made by Lego for Lego would be one of the obvious restrictions, I assume. Is there a restriction on material? If not, it's probably hard to beat the smaller ones of the stickers, but I'd be reluctant to consider them as qualifying, probably because I always considered them more of a disfigurement of good bricks.
I would habe considered the evasive 1x1 glass pane a near perfect candidate due to its 3rd dimension challenge, but that tiny tiara is hard to beat! Anyone able to compare both?

I'm not sure I've ever seen a sticker under 7mm in both dimensions though.  Now if the  question was about the smallest dimension, that would definitely be the answer.

I'm thinking this trigger component for stud-blasters may be even smaller than the tiara. I don't have a tiara though, so I can't check :( Here is the piece

That trigger piece is actually just about twice as large as the tiara. I have both of them in front of me. The tiara is a very-very tiny piece. :)

Good to know! That thing must be incredibly small to be twice as small as the trigger. Sheesh!

I have added an image to my answer showing the tiara next to some other small pieces that people may be more familiar with. Hope that helps. :)

This would be a comment but for the need for pictures.
The Friends bow was listed as a possible contender, but it's a fair bit bigger than the tiara (which I don't have to show them side-by-side).
.
The binoculars/robot head come in a touch smaller in the largest dimension, and the flower smaller still.  The bow is 12×10.5 mm, the binoculars 11.3×7.9 mm, and the flower 9.6 mm across.  Scaling off the photo in TheBrickBlogger's answer the tiara is about 6.8 mm in both visible dimension.

As a comparison a minifig hand is 11 mm long, while a Friends microphone is 12.8 mm long

I think the smallest piece is the 58176 pin piece from Captain Phasma; it's super small.

I think its smaller than the tiara

Its also a little smaller than a 1x1 small round plate

I think you ought to look closer at the tiara piece. The pin is not a regular 3.2mm pin, but even smaller (about 1.2mm). Besides, part 4770 is trivially smaller than 58176.

I guess you're right, the pin is about 3 millimeters bigger

What about this one (4125253)?
It's a part of a Tallneck from Horizon: Forbidden West set. It's even smaller than 1x1 flat piece.

That's 25269 1x1 tile quarter round and, for the purposes of this question, its largest dimension measures √2 ≃ 1.4 studs (same as the diagonal of a 1x1 square plate), which makes it bigger than a 1x1 round plate.

I would say that the smallest piece of Lego (not an accessory) would be a piece that is one stud square, and flat on top.
I'm looking at a white one right now, as I have nearly finished going through a gigantic pile of Lego from 1978-1982..

You mean a 1x1 tile? The tiara from another answer is smaller than that.


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What is the difference between the plastic used in mainstream minifigs and the plastic used to make the popular collectable series of minifigs?
What is the difference (if there even is a difference) between the plastic used in mainstream minifigs and the plastic used in the popular collectable minifig series?
It seems to me that the collectable minifigs are a bit more brittle than their average brethren.

We certainly had some issues in the past with the quality of pigments in the Collectable Minifigures line supposedly due to different compounds.

My understanding is that the collectible minifigs are all made in China, and not at the main LEGO factories. And while the plastic composition is the same, the pigments are different. This gives the pieces a less saturated and more translucent appearance, which makes them look lower quality. However, at least in my experience, this is a superficial cosmetic difference, and the pieces are just as durable as regular minifig parts.

I would also add that LEGO makes other parts in China as well, like all the keychain and magnet minifigs, as well as specially moulded heads and body parts (like for Star Wars non-humans). If the piece comes in its own little clear bag, it is usually a sign that it was made in China. I never found any quality issues with them.

Adding on to @TheBrickBlogger, some of the parts are made in China. Perhaps the "collectable series of minifigs that you are talking about isn't even lego, but is the company "Shen-Yuan"(might have spelled it wrong, google it).  Their products are similiar to lego's, except that their paint is extremely cheap and wears off after a few days. For reference, check out this video:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4dcExGBJN2g

I know the color of some lego parts (notoriously the lime green ball joints from bionicle in 2007-2010) can have an effect on the durability of the piece. But I'm not sure which specific minifigures you had problems with, or what color they were, so no definitive answer. Just a thought.

On thebrickblogger.com (February 9, 2017) there was a call to report issues with minifigures. Reading the answers I get the impression that issues with clutch-power, cracks and other problems are occurring with all sorts of minifigures, not only with the collectible series. This would mean that it is not a persistent problem with Chinese factories:
http://thebrickblogger.com/2017/02/lego-collectible-minifigures-quality-issues/
Looking at Ebay I also get the feeling that 90% of all problems will never be noticed because the owners won't open the bags!


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Does anybody have pictures of a minicon?
I first heard of a minicon in this question on LEGO Answers.  I have searched in a variety of ways but I can't find any pictures or more than a side-mention of this on the vast Interwebs.  There is a sci-fi convention in Minnesota since 1968 (!!) of the same name which adds to the confusion.  :)
So:

does anyone have pictures of the sort of minicon described?
does anyone have pictures of the specific minicons mentioned in Seattle or Melbourne?
can you share these pictures with the world?

It'd be great to see what was described and how close I have come through imagination.

I have some I can post once I can log on to my PC. My phone hates me, otherwise I'd share them now. :)

These three images are from BrickCon 2016.
I've rearranged certain portions of this moc to make a 4 foot square section of Emerald City Comic Con 2016. It's on flickrvid ECCC

This image is from BrickCon 2014 and was taken the night before the public viewing... It was almost set up. Once the other builders added their mocs, it was.

The "head shop" is hilarious.


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THE LEGO® TECHNIC PORSCHE 911 GT3 RS
Super disappointed in this. Paid £250 for it and I have multiple parts missing, some bags don't even belong in my set! LEGO were having a bad day when my pack got made..
LEGO have told me to fill out the form for missing parts, but there's that many it'll take me ages. I bought it from the shop in London while I was on holiday and don't have a LEGO store near me, so that's not an option to take it back!

I would try writing a letter to TLG instead of filling out forms to replace your set. I have read many stories about people having really crazy issues with product quality, and TLG often responds with condolence and free replacement. They're a pretty empathetic company, so I would give that a shot. I'm really sorry that you've had to go through this with such a large and anticipated set.


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How do I connect two models to one PF motor?
Hi there I am trying to see if it is possible to connect the Ferris Wheel AND the Winter Village Carousel to one Power Functions motor.
Is this possible? Does anyone have a link to a video perhaps of someone who has done this? I could not find one on Youtube myself.  Or perhaps a schematic?

Which ferris wheel set? The new 10247 or the older 4957?

As an addition to Ambo100's very nicely detailed answer, I'd like to add one more option: If either of the two things you are powering might suffer from friction (or perhaps a child holding it still), the provided solutions result in a lot of torque on the motor and axles, which in turn could lead to damage to those components (although LEGO motors are designed to switch off if put under too much stress). To avoid this, you could use a differential with in the white box in Ambo100's picture, like in this picture:

The motor would connect to the axle in the bottom right (with the big tan gear), and you would connect the Ferris Wheel and the Winter Carrousel to the left and right "output" axles. A differential splits the output power of the motor over the two axles and keeps the summed rotation of both axles constant even if one axle experiences resistance (the other axle would simply start rotating faster).

I like the design of the transmission better in your design. I don't think the (Technic, Brick 6 x 8 Open Center) brick that I used is even included in many Technic sets these days and this part is smaller. The differential definitely be worth adding too if you have the parts. Somehow this reminded me about gear ratios which I added to my answer.

Your 6x8 Technic brick is easily replaced with either 4x 1x6 Technic bricks or 2x 1x8 and 2x 1x4 Technic bricks (and to make the design stronger you could make one layer out of only 1x6's and one layer out of 1x8+1x4's).

Regardless of the models, you can always connect a single motor to one or more models by splitting the axle using (for example) angular wheels or bevel gears.
I covered two ways of transmitting horizontal to vertical torque here using worm gears and knob wheels on a previous question about transmitting horizontal torque to vertical.
jncraton also has a good demonstration of using bevel gears to achieve the same thing, which I think would work better in this case, although it really depends what parts you have lying around or are willing to purchase.
The principles also apply here except you need to use three axles/joints instead of two. If your models are further apart you can use extra axles connected to standard Technic axle connectors or u-joints (Universal Joints) which can be used at small angles.
Your transmission might end up looking like this. The red axle provides the drive from the motor and rotates the green and blue axles for your two separate models.

You may also wish to adjust the gear ratios directly at the transmission box or on the models themselves to get the speed more realistic. You may want the Ferris Wheel to rotate slower than the carousal for example.


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Unable to turn on NXT. Completely Frozen
I recently downloaded a file on my NXT and when I used it, it didn't work as intended. The motors started to make sounds like they were jammed, one got stuck and now the NXT won't even turn on. I tried pressing the reset button in the battery compartment but it doesn't help matters.
P.S. The thing I built was the NXT Mindcuber by David Gilday.

When you say "I tried the reset button", do you mean that you followed these instructions precisely as written? http://bricks.stackexchange.com/a/8076/3498

The button in the battery compartment is NOT the reset button - it's a switch meant to be depressed by the NXT rechargeable battery. The NXT reset button is inside one of the technic connector holes on the underside of the brick - you can push it with an uncoiled paperclip or a pencil lead.
The reset button only toggles the power, it doesn't actually "reset" anything. The best way to reset the brick is to reinstall the firmware (this can be done from inside the Lego NXT-G programming software or from a 3rd-party utility like BricxCC). However, doing this requires that the brick has power and is able to turn on.
Try charging your batteries (if they're rechargeable) or put in new ones (if they're not). Your symptoms sound like the NXT was on the brink of the low-power threshold - putting load on the motors drained the batteries below a critical level and now the brick won't start.
Be sure to report back if fresh batteries don't work for you.

I doubt this guy will see this answer.

@mindstormsboi OP isn't the only person who could benefit from knowing the answer to this question.

@mindstormsboi  admittedly I didn't realize the question was 4 years old (it showed up on the bricks homepage due to recent activity for some reason). Hopefully some future NXT user benefits from knowing this.


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Mindstorms EV3 brick does not play sound file to the end
I have a 16 seconds WAV file and am trying to play it. It plays only the first 8 seconds both on the brick and on the Mindstorms programming software.

It looks like EV3 supports sound files up to maximum 8 seconds. You can split the files with sound editor and play one after each other.


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Totally stumped! Part ID - unusual crane part?
Is anyone able to identify this piece? I'm totally stumped in spite of searching through hundreds of vintage sets from the 60s / 70s.

Really appreciate any info, thanks!

You could try brickset, although they probably wouldn't have it since they don't have parts from the 60s and 70s. The earliest they have is the 1990s. Try going through the categories after you click on "Parts" in the "Browse" pull-down menu.

This seems to be a subpart of another assembly - likely housing some sort of electronics in the left section. You can see how the right side has the proper anti-stud tubes under the brick, but the left side looks different. This side also has the two holes (one between the left 4 studs, the other one on the sloped piece) and you can see some tabs on the inside of the brick which were likely used to mount this part of the brick onto something else (or perhaps this part was closed with a bottom lid at some point). I have looked through the BrickLink catalog but haven't yet found a match.

Thank you, I too had no luck on brickset or bricklink, but I must've been looking in the wrong places, as it is there. It reminds me of some of the unwieldy parts made around 2000, but clearly had a purpose in its time.

This is Vehicle, Tractor Chassis Base 11 x 2 x 3


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LEGO Mindstorms IDE on macOS flickering
I experience a screen flickering in the LEGO Mindstorms program on macOS when the mouse pointer is moved across the window. The screen flickering is present for all normal users but not the administrative user. The screen flickering was not present in the beginning, but arrived after using the program for a couple of hours.
The problem is the same as described by BetaRide: EV3 ide flickering, but the answer does not solve my problem.
I am using LEGO Mindstorms version 1.2.2 Danish. This is running on a macOS Scierra 10.12.2 on a MacBook Pro 15-inch, Mid 2010.
I have tried to update and reinstall Microsoft Silverlight. I have tried to reinstall LEGO Mindstorm app by deleting the Mindstorms app from /Applications and removing the LEGO folder from /Library/Application Support. The reinstall gave an error message on first attempt, but succeeded in second attempt. I have rebooted the system several times during the process. The flickering persists.
Any thoughts?

As of this morning the IDE flickers for all users - including the adminstrative user. So no difference related to user.


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What LEGO set are these bags from?
I've got tons of partially built sets. I don't know which set these bags belong to. Trying to sort my kids' LEGO bricks. Any tips welcome!

I think you have bags from set 75876-1 Porsche 919 Hybrid and 917K Pit Lane from the Speed Champions line of sets.

The Plate 4x4 Round Corner, in combination with the red and white color scheme, the tires and the transparent yellow 1x2 plates, as well as the fact that there are at least 6 bags (as per the numbers on the bags you have) drive me to this conclusion.

Agreed. The parts in each bag appear to match the parts in the instructions for this set: http://lego.brickinstructions.com/en/lego_instructions/set/75876/Porsche_919_Hybrid_and_917K_Pit_Lane


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I need to know every LEGO's part number, name, and a picture of it
(spoilers) I saw The LEGO Movie and when Lucy looked at a Legeo piece she automatically knew it's part number, name, and other information about it. I thought this was really cool, and knew I could do this with a computer program, but how on Earth am I going to find every single LEGO's part number, and name? I have tried websites such as http://brickset.com, and http://bricklink.com, but they organize by category. What I need is a table of all of the LEGO pieces with their part number, and, name. Can anyone help?

Welcome. What is the problem with the database that BrickLink maintains? Even if they organize by category, since you are a programmer, flattening the categorized list is a few minutes work. Have you tried?

There are several places you can go to to download a catalog of LEGO parts. All these catalogs use a different part number scheme than LEGO officially uses (due to the fact that until a few years ago, LEGO part information was a company secret). In no particular order:

Bricklink. This is the most expansive catalog, and has a dedicated page for creating a customized download of its catalog (the link I just pasted).
LDraw.org. This focuses more on 3D descriptions of the bricks (which might be useful for your program too) but does contain a basic parts list (part number and name). Again, the link I provided takes you straight to a download page.
Rebrickable.com. They have several different parts lists, including a list with all parts (direct csv download).

Also note that a similar question has been asked before, and you might get some more info from looking at that question.


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Please help me ID this...castle and gates

We've been given boxes after boxes of LEGO bricks...trying to piece them all together.  It's a blessing but also a great challenge !

That would be Attack On Weathertop, from the Lord Of The Rings series. Looks like it's missing a fair few pieces, but it's still mostly intact.
EDIT: Oops, top picture didn't load before I posted. The gate is from Mines Of Moria; the fold-out hill is Attack On Weathertop.

I attempted to translate the runes above the gate in the Moria set, but they appear to be nonsense, chosen for aesthetics rather than a hidden message of some kind.

@maguirenumber6 Using the runes from the The Hobbit, you get  "Diordie was here" or "Djordje was here" - a reference to one of the sets designers.

@Zhaph-BenDuguid I must have been using the wrong Dwarvish alphabet :-)

Yep, he made up quite a few, with different transliterations of the same runes, which can make it a little hard to know initially which one has been used. I went for the one from The Hobbit as it was the variant I could remember the most from without having to look it up :$

As per Lepidolite Mica's answer, the bottom picture is from 9472 Attack On Weathertop from the Lord Of The Rings Theme.

The top model is from another LOTR set, 9473 Mines Of Moria. Neither of these sets are complete in your picture.


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Programming NXT ultrasonic sensor with EV3 software
How can I program the NXT ultrasonic sensor with EV3 software? When I pick the block for the ultrasonic sensor, it tells me it is not compatible.

Are you using an NXT brick or an EV3 brick?

I guess you have NXT hardware and EV3 software. The answer is to download the bricks as software as described here.


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LEGO Shell Ferrari 2012 Sets
I am looking for information on the 2012 Shell V-Power Ferrari LEGO promotional sets. The sets include a Ferrari truck and a Shell Crew, and some more which I can't remember. Searching in Google brings up very little results. I can't find anything on the LEGO website or the Shell website. The on that I have was bought in Africa, so I don't know if they are avalible in Canada/US too.
What I am looking for is more information on these sets and where I can possibly get them. All I need is website links.
Picture of Sets:

Brickset is probably the site you need. Here is a list of the sets you're looking for.
At the moment, it seems the only places you can purchase these are at Chowren Toys or on Bricklink. Brickset has compiled all the available vendors on their "buy tab" when you click on a particular set.
If you haven't ever used Bricklink before, don't fret; it's a pretty straight-forward site. So all you'll need to do is take the link, click on the set you are interested in, click on the buy tab, and that will take you there.

The set numbers are 30190 through 30196, use that to look them up on bricklink/brickset note that 30196 is not shown on your picture, it had some kind of special status in that promotion (I don't remember the details).


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Why don't inverted brackets (99780) work in this SNOT 180 configuration?
I've been working on a MOC and tried using the following configuration of inverted brackets to achieve studs out SNOT 180 in a tight space:

As you can see from the photo, this doesn't quite work. I can force the parts to lie flat, but it feels like this is putting a lot of stress on these elements.
What is causing this to not work, and why weren't these parts designed to work this way?

There is a definite, but slight lip on those, and the 2x2x1 bracket as well, I don't know why though.

I am designing a new part to give to the Lego group to resolve this issue by making a new spacer that can compensate the 0.02 mm space although the recent set 76144 uses and illegal technique on the helicopter's brackets to hold extra studs but i'm bringing this up as an example. my idea is an inverted part that is 0.02 mm smaller than a regular brick with 2 inverted studs on it to allow to builder to make sturdier builds upside down

The short answer is because the combined height of the two mini inverted brackets is greater than the interior space of a tile (or brick for that matter.) But you knew this already.
I realize it isn't considered standard by the rest of the world, but because the only quality calipers I had access to tonight are customary, all these values will be in inches.
An average of several measurements gives me the following values for the dimensions of several key parts:

average height of a 1x2 - 2x2 bracket............... 0.7221
average height of a 1x2 - 2x2 inverted bracket...... 0.7278
average height of a 1x2 - 1x2 bracket............... 0.4079
average height of a 1x2 - 1x2 inverted bracket...... 0.4131
average exterior width of a 2x2 tile................ 0.7239
average interior width of a 2x2 tile................ 0.6028

Now, we all know that item 1 and 2 will fit flush onto a brick evenly if a plate is added to the other side.

We also know that in practice, if you put 3 on a brick and 4 directly under that same position, the SNOT faces will adjoin where plates may be legally connected.

But here's the catch: adding the heights of 3 and 4 does not get 1. That sum does not even get 2.
It has to do with where the gap is. On items 1 and 2, the gap is under and above the SNOT part of these elements respectively. But the combination of 3 and 4 leaves the gap between those two plates. You can see this easily by attaching 4 to a brick and then laying a plate behind. You can see that the corner is square and there is no clearance like we see from hanging 1 off the side of a brick-and-plate.
This clearance, by my measurements, is 0.07 inches. This is the height of 4 that is placed at the corner (that leaves a gap between it and 3) This corner is what makes this technique fail. This corner also explains the reason that 3 and 4 are different heights although they suit similar purposes.
Finally, this explains why you can affix two 3 elements to the underside of a tile. Twice the sum of the height of the 3 is still less than the interior measure of the tile once horizontal tolerance is accounted for.
As a closing solution, I recommend using two 3s attached to a tile as that works in reality. But just to prove how complicated this measurement really is, LDD still thinks that your original problem is a legal connection.

Hope this helps.


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Hello, LEGO. I have one question
LEGO group, thanks, to read this
My question:
       How get work in LEGO?
What i have to do now, to get work in future?
I'm 13 years old.
My MOC(i have too many good works, but i can send only one image):
GV-NT-X 478 USC
                            P.S. I'm bad in English, but i learning        this language.

This site is not run by The Lego Group, it's just people who like Lego.

Welcome to LEGO Answers, and nice MOC! We've closed this question as it is a duplicate of another. Hopefully the answers on that question are helpful to you.


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Why are LEGO minifigures getting more and more expensive?
I am a big fan of LEGO and collecting for 30 years now. But while the "normal" sets seem to hold their price, LEGO minifigures are getting more and more expensive.
I can remember, when in Germany one of them was at 2.49 Euro, then they went up to 2.99 and the latest series (with the highest amount of 20 figures) now cost 3.99 Euro. The whole series is now roughly 80 Euro for a hand full of LEGO (if you don't have doubles)...
Have I missed some price rallies on the plastic markets or do they sell that good and LEGO wants to optimise profit as long as they have customers willing to pay (almost) any price? The amount of plastic and the custom parts are comparable to previous collections.

I would probably guess that the reason for the increase in price would be either the that Lego needs more diverse colors to create new printings on the minifigures, or that new minifig pieces(such as head pieces and accessories) are costing more to create and design.

I live in the U.S. so I cannot comment on the German Lego market. That being said, the answer to your question must lie at least in part to the European market for CMFs and not in the inherent price of each mystery bag.
What I mean is the price of a CMF in the U.S. has remained at a steady $3.00 since Series 3. While distributions within boxed sets have appropriated the inherent value of the figures above or below that price, a lucky person could still theoretically get whatever figure they wanted for the standard price (if they are as crazy as I am and feel up all the bags in the Lego aisle.)
Now please correct me if I am wrong on this, but I believe the value of the Euro has depreciated in the past several years. Certain principles of microeconomics may maintain local purchasing power even through this drop, giving the illusion that funds go just as far. Increases in the amount of paper that goes in a wallet at the end of each pay period may even make it seem -- on a local level -- that a person is actually making more than they used to, when the extra amount is due to adjustments in inflation.
Now the value of a CMF as stated before has not changed, but perhaps the numerical price associated with that purchase may adjust for inflation. Could this be the reason it appears that the theme has grown more costly over time? If not, please tell me I'm just a nosy American who shouldn't be commenting on European economics. You won't hurt my feelings.
Bonus content: here are the apparent values of minifigures thanks to uneven box distributions, as well as a link to a very useful forum topic.

Hope this helps!

Thanks for your long answer! Are you sure about the $3.00 price tag for the current Batman Movie series? At least online they sell them for $3.99 in the US: https://shop.lego.com/en-US/THE-LEGO-BATMAN-MOVIE-71017 so the price wouldn't differ much from Germany and the whole series would be $80...

@pebx I appear to have missed a side-topic in this answer, and that goes to the licensed CMFs. I failed to mention that those lines are one dollar higher than the usual series. Of course, some of this may be explained away as pertaining to licensing costs associated with bringing us Simpsons, British Olympic Athletes, the German soccer team (whose faces are probably not free to replicate!) et cedera. My answer addresses an angle as to why the cost of CMFs has gone up between lines that should be of equal value. But even if I look at the specialty lines, they all are constant at four dollars.

Annual inflation in Euro zone has been -1-4 % the latest decade. Meanwhile EUR/USD exchange rate has been non-volatile. So that wouldn't account for much.
If you've witnessed a price increase my guess it's probably down to greater demand for CMFs, allowing Lego to raise prices.

Yes, I also assume LEGO just wants to optimise profits and takes higher prices since they know the demand will still stay high.


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Piece identification (Sphere)
I was wondering if this LEGO piece is a valid LEGO, and what is its part number?
Can it be used in FIRST LEGO League competitions?

What makes you think this IS a LEGO piece? Does it have any LEGO markings, or connections with other LEGO elements?

Well, the red piece is for sure a LEGO piece and fits perfectly with the transparent one. Maybe is a piece made by some third-party company. Can it be?

It looks like there are three individual pieces.

A small metal ball (Probably not LEGO)
A translucent connector (Probably not LEGO)
A red LEGO Technic Cross Axle (6538)

The red piece seems to share the same amount of ridges ridges (three) and seems to be a good match in size and colour. I'm not familiar with this connector being used in this manner, I'm fairly sure the other two pieces are not LEGO.

Seems legit... Good eyesight!

Thanks for the answer, maybe the other two pieces are made by third-party companies and thus are not official LEGO pieces. So these two pieces can't be used in FLL competitions...?

I've found a store which sells this item: http://www.mindsensors.com/ev3-and-nxt/88-ball-caster-to-mount-on-nxt-robots. Definitely, it is not an official LEGO piece, so I assume it cannot be used in FLL competitions


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How can I fix or prevent my cylinder from not functioning?
So I received a LEGO pneumatic cylinder from a seller on Bricklink today. I received it in nice working condition. I hooked it up it up to my Lego pneumatic engine. Nothing special or fast just a one cylinder engine powered by two LEGO pumps. After a few hours of playing with it the top inlet stopped working. The bottom one was fine at pushing up while having a bit of force pushing down on it but on the top inlet when you put some upward force on it while its trying to go down it just lets are out from some hole and stays in place. This happened to me one another cylinder I bought before on eBay. The one on eBay also stopped work when I put in on the engine but I guess it had been broken but never noticed. I hope you understood and can answer my question. If you want me to specify something else comment it below.

Welcome to LEGO Answers! Your issue if very likely due to one of the internal seals leaking. I've marked this as a duplicate, as that issue has been addressed in another question. Hopefully the answer there helps you out.


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LEGO Mindstorms Motor Power
I am working on a project with a LEGO Mindstorms (RCX) motor. For this project, all I need is to spin a motor (43362, http://www.philohome.com/motors/motor.htm).

I was wondering how the LEGO Mindstorms brick deals with motors. Does the brick output a constant power to the motors, resulting in different speeds for different loads? Or does the brick adjust power to meet a constant speed? Thank you!

The RCX system provides a certain average voltage level (via PWM) to the motors. This means that speed can vary based on load, and may even vary slightly from motor to motor. Power will also vary based on load, as a motor with more load will draw more current if voltage is held constant.
If you're interested in specifics, you can measure the voltage and current on the motor lines with a voltmeter, or view it on an oscilloscope if you have one available. From there, you can calculate the power (P=IV) for your setup.
The RCX system does have a rotation sensor if you need to be able to make specific speed and/or distance adjustments. In later systems, additional data lines were added to the communication protocol to allow motors to have embedded rotation sensors and allow precise speed control, but this is not possible with the RCX system.

Thank you so much for the response! This is exactly what I was looking for. By any chance, is there documentation of this that states the nominal power value?

I've updated my answer to add more specifics about the relationship between voltage, which the RCX controls directly, and power, which is not directly controlled and also depends on current (P=IV).

Thank you! Also, what would define a "greater load." Would it be mass or moment of inertia. If two loads have the same moment of inertia, will they spin at about the same speed?

Load in this case is resistance to rotation from the perspective of the motor. This could be related to the moment of inertia of an object being accelerated, but it could also be related to other things (e.g. rolling resistance). No load would be when nothing is attached to the motor, and maximum load would occur then the motor can't turn.

The motor speed is controlled by time modulating the available voltage (approximately 9 volts).  So at 100% it looks like a continuous 9 volts.  At 50% it is periods of 9 volts and 0 volts in equal amounts. Something like 100 time blocks per second.


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Wiring diagram of this blue 12V switch?
I'm looking for a wiring diagram or some information about the internal connections of this switch from the blue train era.

It is used for controlling the automatic points, and is visible on the original box:

The points connect to the back of the switch using a 3-pole connector:

I want to use a microcontroller to operate the points without manually pushing buttons. Since I don't have any of these, I cannot measure the connections (using a multimeter).
Does anyone own this switch, and cares to share some information?

This is how I think the switch works. I have tried wiring it this way and it works, however the points barely move. Perhaps the problem lies with the solenoids inside the points?

In electrical engineering one might call it:
DPDT (Double Pole Double Throw) Momentary (On)-Off-(On) Reversing Polarity Toggle Switch.

Momentary in this configuration means that it's spring loaded towards its centre position.
Edit: I'm not sure though, see the comment below. I have the remotely controlled switch points from the gray era and they work like above.

Are you sure it is a momentary switch? The 2-pole power supply connects to the side of the switch, and a 3-pole connector connects to the back leading to the points. From what I can see in the pictures it looks like the switch is a normal toggle switch with only two positions. Though I can't be sure. The points itself have a built-in switch which is toggled once the points are in position, unpowering the solenoids.

You might be right.

Yes, it looks like there is a difference between grey/blue era. The blue ones use two solenoids (one for each direction), so I guess the grey ones use one solenoid only (reversing the polarity to change the direction).

I've updated my question. Could you take a look?

I might ask TLG for this. There are several possibilties. I didn't know the switch has a 3-pole output. If it moves barely the two solenoids might be in series, but then, mentioning the interlocked end switch might obstruct power flow to switch back again. I don't like re invent the wheel. Neither do I own the switch nor the railswitch so I can't find out. What we need is a datasheet. TLG can clear this up for us.

Hey Niels, thanks again for your response. Actually the clue lies in this picture: https://i.stack.imgur.com/fLzUG.jpg
I was using a 12V DC adapter, assuming the voltage for the points had to be the same as the train itself. Since all three connectors on the transformer are identical, a child could easily plug in the wrong connectors, so I assumed both would have to be the same voltage. It turns out the points actually use 16V AC. I will answer my own question once I have verified this, since I have no 16V adapter yet.

Ah. Nice find Midas. The transformer from the grey era has a blindplated 13VAC output which might work fine. The plate can easily be removed. https://questforbricks.files.wordpress.com/2013/08/the_transformer_3.jpg


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Need help identifying LEGO sets from bags and more
If its possible to please help me identify these, I would great appreciate it. I know some are from Star Wars, but I have no idea what the one with the green torso is from (that bag also has a grey spiked helmet in it if that helps).
There is also a LOT more that I got from thrift stores in plastic tubs and if I can get some help with these bags (and if you guys are up for it) I'd love help deciphering them as well.

Welcome to LEGO Answers! I'm sure that someone would be happy to help identify the other bags that you're unsure about. It would be best to ask that as a separate questions since this one has already been answered.

Based on Reddish Brown Torso Space Police 3 Spiked Armor Pattern / Sand Green Arms / Sand Green Hands you're dealing with set 5979 Max Security transport.

The yellow torso and the large Technic projectile seem to confirm your answer as well. Nice find.


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Are there any sensors that are capable of measuring audio pitch for EV3?
Are there any sensors that are capable of measuring audio pitch? Or is there an easy solution that a beginner would be able to make work?

You may be able to rig something up with a Vernier Sensor Adapter, the Vernier EV3 Sensor Block, and a Vernier microphone. Although the NXT sound sensor can be made compatible with EV3, it would seem it only measures volume, and cannot measure frequency.

It looks like the Vernier microphone is no different that the NXT sound sensor. The EV3 is only capable of sampling at 1kHz, so either of these could only be used to detect frequencies < 500Hz and you would have to write your own DSP for this to extract the frequency from the samples.

i might try ev3dev python with a usb microphone and see how that goes


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How should I arrange LEGO to sell per pound?
I've dug up my LEGO collection, and I'm looking to sell it on Ebay or BrinkLink. All of my sets are mixed in containers. I still have the instructions but no original boxes.
I considered sorting the LEGO into sets however I realized that the extra profit I would get would be negligible for the effort it would take, especially since a lot of the LEGO is LEGO City and lesser valued sets like LEGO Agents, LEGO Exoforce etc.
Due to this, I have found that it would be best to sell the LEGO per pound. I could just sell it in bulk but I would get less profit according to this answer to another question.
If I was to sell it per pound, how should I divide the bricks? Per color, brick type (and if so what brick type) etc, or does it not matter?
Thanks.

See also the awesome answer here: https://bricks.stackexchange.com/a/9718/56

Good question, and welcome to LEGO Answers! Assuming you are going to break up your collection but not sort it into sets, you will likely get more money for your collection if you sell it in smaller lots sorted by color. You can get a sense for what different colors are worth per pound by searching completed listings on eBay.
However, I don't believe that the answer you cited is correct in most cases (including yours). The first item listed on the most popular answer is:

Sell the collection as-is (with as much honest description as you can muster and great photos if you're selling on-line).

You don't just have random bricks. Since it sounds like you have many complete or nearly complete sets, you'd be losing that value if you break everything up an sell it in 2 pound lots.
Assuming that your collection is well kept, and you don't want to do the work to sort it, I'd recommend selling it as one large lot. List the sets that you have instructions for and indicate that you believe that they are 99% complete (e.g. you aren't aware of any missing pieces or minifigs, but some have probably wandered off over the years). There are definitely people out there that buy large lots like this and separate out and sell sets for a profit.
You'll want to take plenty of pictures. I'd spread things out and take as many detailed shots of the parts as you can. Experienced buyers will be able to tell pretty quickly how complete your collection is. Given that minifigs have much more value than regular parts, I'd also recommend taking photos of them in a way that allows them to all be identified.

Excerpt from Brickpicker:

With bulk, in general terms, the more time you spend on it the more
  money you make. At a bare minimum any bulk lot needs at least a simple
  hose down and a quick sort to remove as many non LEGO as possible. A
  bulk lot treated in that manner would bring, on average, $5.00 per
  pound on eBay. To make any real money you need to spend the time to
  sort. Bricks sorted by color usually bring around $10.00 per pound.
  This assumes that you removed all minifigs and minifig parts. The real
  money in bulk is made by bringing sets back from the dead. The last
  loose 3181 I sold went for $46.00, had I sold it by weight I could
  have expected about $7.50. It took about 3 hours of work to sort/find
  all the pieces, but the extra return made up for it..


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Star Wars Set Identification, small sets with Snow Troopers
Please help if possible to identify this Star Wars set. Let me know if you need any other information.

Definitely 8084 - LegoSnowtrooper Battle Pack:

There are only 4 Star Wars sets with the white tricycle body, and you can clearly see all the other parts match.


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Which system is more efficient?
I got a few XL power functions motors, and want to combine them to make a racing car. Let's get to right to the question:
Which one save the most torque power? This one...

...or this one?

PS: It is okay if you warn me that even with three XL motors, the car won't work.

I assume that the first one is less likely to damage the 8-tooth gears, if that's a possibility, which it probably isn't.

The torque in both versions would be the same.
Your first version just adds 3 of these gears:

The ratio between them is 1:1 so it will be the same as if you connect the axle straight into those small gears, as you do in the second image.
(Well, technically speaking, having 3 more gears in the mix will sacrifice some power to friction, but the theory is the same.)

Note, this answer assumes you aren't also running an axle through both these gears in your first image.

If you are, then it simply will not work.

Thank you so much! That was exactly what I was looking for :)


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Was there ever cadmium in LEGO bricks?
I remember a rumour from my youth in the late seventies / early eighties, that there was supposedly cadmium in older (relative to that time) LEGO bricks.
Searching for LEGO cadmium yields quite a lot of hits, but so far, nothing conclusive.
I also note that LEGO has never recalled any old bricks, which I admit would be next to impossible: how would the general public be able to distinguish between older and newer bricks?
Has cadmium ever been used in LEGO bricks? If so, in what quantities?
How about other toxic metals?

What an interesting question! I'm going to ask my older LEGO friends to see if anyone knows.

I asked Gary Istok on your behalf in this Brickset Forum thread, who is an expert on LEGO's history. He said the following:

When LEGO replaced the Cellulose Acetate bricks circa 1963 with ABS
  plastic for non-trans parts, and polycarbonate for the trans ones,
  they had a problem with the red and yellow parts.  For some reason
  (I'm not a chemical engineer)... red and yellow ABS parts were more
  difficult to color to TLG standards.  So Bayer and Borg-Warner (the
  chemical companies that produced the ABS and other plastic pellets
  worldwide) added Cadmium, a heavy metal, as an additive to those 2
  LEGO colors to help in the coloring process.
Although Cadmium will not leach out of the LEGO bricks of that era (kids could safely chew on those LEGO parts), the longer term landfill
  issues of Cadmium laced LEGO getting into the ground, did become an
  issue with environmentalists.  So TLG had their plastics makers
  Borg-Warner (for USA, Canada, Britain, Ireland and Australia) and
  Bayer (for continental Europe and Asia) work on removing the cadmium
  from the red and yellow elements of that era.  I don't know the
  chemical specifics of that action, but by 1973 LEGO parts were Cadmium
  free... and have remained so.
Next question.... can you tell Cadmium parts (1963-72) from Cadmium free parts?  Generally yes... but it's easier for red bricks, which
  are a darker red color with Cadmium.  Yellow LEGO parts with Cadmium
  are also a darker color, but the difference between Cadmium and
  Cadmium free yellow parts is less noticeable... especially with used
  or dirty yellow elements.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cadmium_pigments

Fixed thread link: https://forum.brickset.com/discussion/comment/498950

Even in early 1980s there were some patches having Cadmium. I should link to the study but lost it now.
Here is somewhat proper reference:
https://www.thesun.co.uk/news/5436922/second-hand-plastic-toys-including-lego-could-harm-children-with-toxic-chemicals/
Eating is something to avoid. Hand-to-mouth (hand skin licked) behaviour is not as fatal.


text:
Can you identify a box that says LEGO Extra Parts no. 058?
I got a box that says LEGO Extra Parts. Think number is #058 any help?

It's a Samsonite supplemental pack
058-1: Small wheels


text:
Need help with part identification... can't find part number
No apparent part number that I could find. Help with IDing this part? Thank you!

First obligatory Q: does the stud have "LEGO" imprinted on it?

Yup, it does. I have a BrickLink store and list parts all the time, so I know for certain this is lego :) Impossible to tell in the photo though, so I appreciate the question. That aside, I looked inside the part with a flashlight as well, so definitely no part number. Just need someone who knows the name of this piece or what it might be.

Found it while looking for a different part in the inventory! It is 2463 Brick, Modified Facet 3 x 3 x 2 Top

You may want to mark your answer as the accepted one


text:
Identify this baseplate
I recently purchased a large lot of LEGO parts. Most everything I'm familiar with, but there are a few pieces that I'd love to get some insight on if anyone here can help.

This is a Megabloks baseplate, not LEGO.
For future reference - LEGO pieces will have "LEGO" stamped on the studs (where possible) and will have "(c) LEGO" somewhere on the inside in most cases as well. Difficult to read or find, but it is there upon close inspection. Your piece does not have any markings on the studs.

thanks yeah i noticed that these were lacking the lego stamp but didn't put 2 & 2 together. thanks!


text:
What are these LEGO pieces? Heavy 6x6 disks
I'd like help trying to identify these heavy discs.

They are officially "Turntable 6 x 6 Round Base" AKA NinjaGo Spinners.  They come in sets with Ninja minifigures and weapons that you can then spin up and have them fight one another.
There are a lot of different varieties depending on the specific coloring, they can be found here:
http://www.bricklink.com/catalogList.asp?q=ninjago%20spinner


text:
Send variable to EV3 via WiFi
I'm trying to connect my EV3 via Wifi to my Unity game. Is there a simple way to send a command to the EV3?
I gave the EV3 a fixed IP and I'm getting the broadcast which the device is sending. So there is a connection. Can I send a variable or something to my EV3?

First, you need to learn how to make a TCP connection to your EV3. There is a good guide on this here.
Then you need to learn about EV3 VM bytecodes and how to send direct commands.
Since you are using Unity, you may be able to use a pre-existing library such as the MonoBrick Communication Library or the Brian Peek library.
To send a variable, you need to use mailbox commands along with "Messaging" blocks in the EV3-G software.

this helped finding an answer. thank you.

so... after talking to some people and having a sleeples night i switched to monobrick firmware and started a small webserver.
    namespace MonoBrickHelloWorld
{
    class Program
    {
        public static void Main (string[] args)
        {

            //LcdConsole.WriteLine ("Startup");

            HttpListener httpListener = new HttpListener();
            httpListener.Prefixes.Add("http://*:9090/");
            httpListener.Start();

            var run = true;

            (new ButtonEvents()).EscapePressed += () => run = false;

            while (run)
            {
                var context = httpListener.GetContext();
                Process(context);
            }
        } //Main Ende

        private static void Process(HttpListenerContext context)
        {
            string reqPath = context.Request.Url.AbsolutePath;

            //Console.WriteLine(reqPath);
            LcdConsole.WriteLine (reqPath);
            //

        }// Process End

    } //class Program end
}

i will split the url send to my ev3 and start different things. wow.
Source: http://www.monobrick.dk/forums/topic/webserver/


text:
LEGO part 3039 black with red sticker

Wondering what set this came from.

After cross-referencing Part 3039 with the crystal piece shown on the sticker, Part 52, in each shade of green, I found it: Clash of the Heroes from the Batman vs. Superman sets. The sticker itself is sheet 76044stk01b.

http://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=76044stk01b&idColor=0#T=C&C=0 is the sticker itself.

@chicks Whups, let me add that!


text:
How to instruct EV3 to go a certain place in the room?
I'd like to instruct my LEGO Mindstorms EV3 robot navigate to a defined place in the room ("return home").
With the lack of GPS capabilities, what other possibilities exist?
Maybe directing the robot with IR Beacon?

I would use the IR Beacon that's shipped with the Home Edition of the LEGO Mindstorms Education EV3.
The Beacon is integrated within the IR remote control (the big horizontal button at the top). The LEGO Education programming language (EV3-G) has a block to get the distance and angle from the IR beacon. So it is possible to search for a beacon and move your robot into the specific direction.
If I remember correctly you can use four different channels with a IR remote control. So it should be possible to use four different IR Beacons simultaneously.
I think that's the easiest solution you can achieve with not so much effort.


text:
What sort of college education is best to become a LEGO designer?
I'm a big fan of LEGO and I would love to know about what kind of college I should apply to so I can get a degree to work with TLG. Also, I was wondering if I wanted to be a LEGO Set creator, would I have to move out of the United States and move to Denmark, or would I be able to work in the United States and create sets?  I'd love to get feedback because I am in 10th grade, and I am going to college soon.

Related: http://bricks.stackexchange.com/questions/283/how-does-one-get-a-job-as-a-lego-designer

You should also consider asking this question to Lego directly since they know best what they want and may even have special programs or similar for people like you.

Try for an industrial engineering degree. That would be the best fit for a set designer. An art degree would work too.
If you want to be a LEGO set designer, you're gonna have to move to Denmark. Of course, you need to be accepted first. You can stay where you are while you work on your degree and become more proficient in working with bricks.


text:
What is the name of the piece that is often used to switch gears?
I have been trying to find this part on BrickLink and have searched every Technic category.  I have come up empty.
Could someone provide the name of this part so that I can find it on BrickLink?

That is Part 6641 - Technic Changeover Catch.
Also known as "Technic Transmission Changeover Catch".


text:
EV3 Ultrasonic Sensor block is not availible in the Home Edition software
I can't find the ultrasonic sensor block on the programming app on my computer. I am using the Lego Mindstorms EV3 Home Edition.

You can download the Ultrasonic sensor block (and Gyro sensor too) from the official MINDSTORMS website.
Look for "Ultrasonic Sensor Block" near the bottom of the downloads page.

And then import the downloaded file within your EV3 Home Edition.

Can we not just get the teacher edition for Mac OS. I though this was supposed to be simple for kids. Downloading plugins is no simple. Where can I find the teacher edition for Mac OS?

Since November 2019, LEGO has a new scratch-based programming software for macOS. It includes the Ultrasonic and Gryo sensors in all versions (home and edu).

Link is outdated

Links are fixed now, thanks for pointing it out.

I have downloaded the Ultrasonic block (on a mac) but cannot figure out how to install it, any ideas?

You can find a tutorial for installing the blocks here: https://ev3lessons.com/en/ProgrammingLessons/beginner/ImportingBlocks.pdf

Lego changed their website for LEGO MINDSTORMS, so you can download all needed stuff for EV3 or NXT from here: https://www.lego.com/en-us/themes/mindstorms/downloads


text:
What set is this dark grey remote with orange buttons from?
This is what the front looks like:

This is what the back looks like, I'm 90% sure it says 4272 at the top:

This is the remote control of a set I got ages ago, when I was still a little boy. I lost the receiver-part, but from my memory it looked like a bulky base for a car and had a antenna with the actual receiver on it. I'm trying to use the remote in a project, but its turning out to be more difficult than I thought, and I hoped that finding the actual set would help me. The main thing I need is the IR details/protocol so I can read the remote with a IR receiver and use it for tons of fun stuff. I hope someone can help me out.
PS. I know it looks a lot like the Bionicle Manas set, but its slightly different, notice the channel switches on the front sides of the remotes.

It looks like part 2162c01 - Electric, RC Controller Racer Complete Assembly (Black Bottom, Red Buttons) from RC Nitro Flash (set 4589).


text:
Restoring minifig parts to original configuration for sale
I have approx 100 Lego Figures (besides extra 'body parts') but I know that most are not as originally issued.  While all are Lego parts they are all mixed up.  I'd like to sell the whole lot, but concerned that I have to restore them to their original (uniform)look - or at least in their original look they would command a (somewhat) higher price. Any recommendations or thoughts would be appreciated.
Thanks.

You may use the minifigs section of Brickset to help you. They have reference of over 9000 minifigs released by TLC over time. By browsing per topic, you may complete some of your minifigs and using the site is completely free.
There are also several books like this Complete Lego Minifigure Catalogue (1975-2015), even if books may offer a higher challenge to search. Moreover, books are not free.

A book with all figures has been published in 2014 by Dotling Kindersley Ltd, 80 Strand London

Welcome to LEGO Answers! Could you expand this answer to explain how to find this book (perhaps link to it somewhere) and how it would be helpful for restoring minifigs to their original configuration?


text:
Identify this airplane axle holder from Little Prince MOC

Can anyone name the circled piece in this picture?

Looks like this piece:
Plate, Modified 2 x 4 Thin with Bottom Struts to Pins

It comes in a few sets, usually as landing gear.

Yes that looks like the one. Unfortunately it looks like that might make the axles a bit weak. Do you know of one that doesn't have the pins at the bottom so a full axle can go all the way across?

@Craig I'm afraid not. It's one of the more specialty pieces from the Jack Stone era. I don't know of any similar pieces.


text:
Website with layout plans for LEGO Duplo trains?
Can anybody suggest a web site with plans for LEGO Duplo trains?
I've searched the net for a while without any interesting results.
Any hints appreciated!

I'm not aware of any sites that are dedicated to DUPLO train layouts, but there are certainly interesting layout ideas out there. For example, this was included in set 2932:

There are also loads of great creations in this Pinterest category:


text:
What are the common quality issues seen in collectible minifigs?
TLG is currently seeking specific feedback on what quality issues may be present within the Collectible Minifigures line so that these issues can be addressed. What are the common issues that you have seen?
It would be most helpful if answers could include detailed photos or data to support issues. For example, if there's an issue with color consistency, a comparison photo would be helpful. If there's an issue with clutch power, data would be great. I'll pass the feedback on to TLG by sending a link to this question once it gets some solid answers.

I own a lego movie 2 minifig (flashback lucy) and the head piece is much harder to turn then usual, but that might just be because it's brand new.


text:
What is the best way to program Mindstorms EV3?
I'm just starting to use the LEGO Mindstorms EVE robot and I'm a bit hesitant which way to choose for programming: the official graphic software or any alternative (preferably the Linux based ev3dev)?
I don't really use Windows and find the official pictogram-like GUI cumbersome and a bit childish, so I tend to pick ev3dev.
At the same time, most of the tutorials/instructions are based on the official program and I don't know if there is a straightforward way to map all these steps to ev3dev instructions; moreover, I'm a bit wary to rely on an unofficial 3rd party solution (maybe it is immature, error-prone, buggy, incomplete etc.). But I definitely want to stick either of them, no time to try out both extensively...

You have various options.
If you use Linux mainly ev3dev is a good start I think. I've worked with Java (LeJOS) and C# (MonoBrick) in combination with the LEGO Mindstorms Education EV3. But there are more bindings for the EV3. If I recall correctly at least for Python, C, C++ and some more educational friendly languages. The information you need to write your own language/compiler for the EV3 platform are available on the LEGO Mindstorms website. I'm currently developing my own language, compiler and IDE for my master thesis.
The more general question you must answer yourself is: What's the goal you want to achieve? Do you want to learn how to program or do you have already knowledge in one or more languages? If you want to learn how to program you should IMHO use a more beginner friendly language like the EV3-G (the graphical language you mentioned). If you already have some knowledge you can start with a text-based language.
The second question is: Do you want to use/learn a graphical language or a text-based one? There are graphical alternatives to EV3-G like the Open Roberta Project. It uses a Scratch like language (based on the same JavaScript library).
Hopefully I could give you some hints because the topic is more complex than many think in first place. If you have more questions just feel free and ask.

Thank you. Just one more question: is mapping the EV3-G instructions, tutorial steps to ev3dev is mechanical (I mean, there is an equivalent ev3dev command to each of the EV3-G boxes with the same parameters) or is it a challenge to turn the former into the latter? First, I'd like to experiment with "established" structures which could usually be built from EV3-G instructions.

@Hendrik with every programming language you can use, you'll fine that the basic instructions are largely the same - i.e. turn on a motor, display some text on the screen, variables and control structures, etc. So whilst it may be different laying the foundations of a program, and what code you need to write to perform these actions, the pseudo steps should remain fairly consistant

I agree with @shea. Many basic operations for controlling your robot or in general interactions you have a set of operations that can be used for example in EV3-G. You will find those operations in every other language for the EV3, too. Of course you have to transform your knowledge and your program workflow to that new language. Especially when you come form a visual language. But that's every time the case.


text:
Electric train set not working - even though the light is on
My son just received an old LEGO 9V electric train (no model numbers or instructions) from a family member.
I've set it up and turned it on. It lights up but when I put one of the trains or just the train motor (refer to image below) on the tracks nothing happens.
I've connected the Train Speed Regulator to the power adapter and turned it on, then connected (to the top of the speed regulator) the extension wire with the train track clip things to each side of the tracks - refer below.
Is this the correct way to set it up?

And set up the track in the smallest possible loop for testing:

If anyone has any suggestions or solutions on how to make this work or the correct way to set it up it would be greatly appreciated!

thanks @AlexanderO'Mara ! - do you know if these cars can be fixed - or new ones purchased?

I don't think they are generally repairable unfortunately. If you're lucky, it might just be something isn't connecting. If unlucky, you can buy them 2nd hand on BrickLink and others: https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=590

The speed regulator light being on is a good start. It looks like you have things set up correctly as far as I can tell.
The first step is to identify which part is having issues. All of these parts can be purchased on Bricklink, so once you know what has failed, you can replace the defective part.
Here are some ideas for testing components:

If you have a 9V light brick or similar, you can attach it directly to the speed regulator to see if that is delivering power.
It's fairly easy to test if power is getting to the track if you have a volt meter handy. You can simply measure the voltage between the tracks when you have the regulator turned all the way up. If this reads around 9 volts, then everything is working except the train motor.
You can test the motor by connecting one pole of a 9V battery to one side of the wheels and one side of the battery to the other. You'll need to use a paper clip or something to bridge the gap. If the motor spins, you know that it isn't the issue.
You can also directly power the track using a 9V battery. You just need one pole on one rail and one on the other. You can make the connection using a small wire, paper clip, or whatever you have handy.

If any of that doesn't make sense, let me know and I can add more detail and/or pictures. Let us know what works and then we can go from there.

If there is a suspicion that the metal surfaces have developed dust and grime or any other insulating layer, a solution would be to give the tracks a Brasso (or other metal polish) wipe and quick rinse and dry with water. Also give the train motor wheels a wipe of the same polish.
Also check this YouTube video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RCda7voqyUY
Edit 2: not having Brasso made me try a standard cleaning wet-wipe and after a few wipes it felt smoother (less sticky/rubbing) and guess what? One motor runs perfectly fine, the other stops after a few seconds, I've opened that one up and cleaned the insides (grease got dusty and hard) and it now runs fine without any grease and sounds way better!

Hi Tom and welcome to Bricks.SE! I took the liberty to add a clause about the specific problem this method solves, just to avoid anyone trying this unnecessarily (like when all involved metal surfaces are squeaky clean). If you don't like this edit, feel free to update, extend, amend or rollback.

It doesn't even look like there is rust on his tracks.

@mindstormsboi it doesn't seem like rust build up, which would be rather unlikely since it's either stainless steel or a nickel/zinc alloy but there very well could be a layer of build up dust and grime not neccesarily visible with the naked eye but very well eletrically insulating

@zovits thanks for the edit, but it's very unlikely for rust to occur it's more likely dust & grime


text:
How can body segments be moved to precise angles in snake robot?
I want to create an EV3 robot similar to this:

I've glanced at the mentioned papers. To me it seems that some simpler equations to govern the motors will work also.
I have 9 segments, articulated by 8 motors (two intelligent bricks daisy-chained).
I want the angles of the segments to be proportional to a sine. Doing some calculations in some graphing software, this should be sufficient to have the snake move in a wave.
However, there seems to be no robust, reliable way to set an angle on an EV3 motor. I have a MoveTo myblock, where I use the motor first as angle sensor, calculate the difference to the desired angle and then set the motor "on" for that amount. I also tried setting the power proportional to the difference. But I do not succeed is setting the angle accurate enough, it starts drifting or overshoots. I can't synchronize all the segments that way.
Is it feasible to attempt this in the graphic programming language that comes with the ev3 software or do I need to look to something more advanced?
Any hints would be appreciated.
Edit: Made some headway, rather than putting the motor "On" for a number of degrees, I simply place the motor "On" with a power proportional to the error between the measured angle and desired angle. Works good enough for now. This is the P in a PID-controller, adding an integration and derivative part might help.
The problem I'm currently facing is the weight distribution, the segment that is the head of the snake doesn't have a motor and hence is much lighter. I need to find a better set of factors to multiply the errors with for each motor. I'm confident I'll succeed in this by trial and error whenever I find the time.

I would try to have tape on each segment at 45° angles and have the color sensor read it. May or may not work, but it is at least half an idea. I would go for an arduino or something though to help, or do the entire snake.

Welcome to LEGO Answers! Even if you use the same amount of power each time you may get wildly different results depending on the friction of the surface and the arrangement of the motors. You may need to constantly query the data from the rotation sensor(s) to see if it is aligned, and if not perform corrections, making clockwise/counter-clockwise rotations to get a more precise arrangement. Are you able to show us what your program looks like at the moment?

You could use worm gears, or worm gears, or compound worm gears, because you can slow the rotation down as much as you want, which means you can have super fine rotation.
An extreme example of this would be the 120 years timer here
This uses a compound worm gear and spur gear train.
Worm gears also have a lot of torque in a small space.
if you want the snake to sway left but then automatically sway right then just hook do something like this but like the following:
The red pin goes to the snakes body which should 'sway' because of the linkages converting rotary motion into oscillating motion. just make sure that the other half of the snakes body is anchored to the motors housing other wise it will be a retarded snake :)


text:
Why does Jay from Ninjago have a scar?
Jay, one of the protagonists of the Ninjago series, has a scar on his face. I would like someone to let me know what this is about.

Great question, and welcome to LEGO Answers!

According to the book, LEGO NINJAGO: The Visual Dictionary (Masters of Spinjitzu):

Eyebrow notch caused by an explosion

The relevant page can be previewed on the Amazon page for the book:


text:
Is code written for NXT bricks compatible with EV3 brick (for Johnny 5 building)?
My son is mad on the robot from Short Circuit (Johnny 5) and I want to build robots with him. We have a copy of Daniele Benedettelli's "Creating Cool Mindstorms NXT Robots" and I was planning to start with the simpler Johnny 5 build (miniJohnNXT) which is on the author's website. We only own simple Lego at the moment so I need to invest in a kit which has bricks, sensors etc. So I have a few questions. I've looked around the web but most questions focus on NXT/EV3 compatibility of hardware, not software.

Which kit should I buy given that we want to build the miniJohnNXT
(but will obviously also do other builds)? The NXT kit (8527,
currently about £170), the EV3 retail kit (31313, currently £218) or
the EV3 education kit (45544, currently £371)? I realise I'll have
to get extra parts whichever kit I get, but the brick seems the main
cost.
Will the code written for the NXT brick to control Johnny5 work on
the EV3 brick? (I assume so, but need to check)
Given that the "eyes" part of the robot is an ultrasonic sensor
(53792) in the NXT kit, and in the EV3 retail kit is an IR sensor
(95654), will this cause big problems with the coding, or can I just
modify it relatively easily (or put and ultrasonic sensor elsewhere
on the robot?).

My gut feeling is to get the EV3 retail kit as the EV3 brick is newer technology than NXT, so likely to be more forwardly compatible (I think we have years of Lego ahead of us) and the EV3 education kit seems really overpriced, but if the coding won't work except with NXT then I'll get an NXT kit instead.

I would advise the EV3 retail version. An NXT costs more than it should because it is getting difficult to find. You can buy additional motors and sensors separately in an official LEGO store or order them from the S@H website. The EV3 education kit cost more than it should because it's "educational". You will not need to modify the Johnny 5 build much to accommodate for the different motors sensor and intelligent brick.
No, but you'll be able to view the NXT code in the new software and it shouldn't be to hard to reproduce the EV3 equivalent. The code blocks are similar.
There is a new ultrasonic sensor (45504) just for the EV3 brick. It's sold as part of the educational kit but you can also buy it separately (which is in my opinion more cost effective). I suppose you could also modify the code to work with the EV3 IR sensor, but range and precision are significantly poorer for distance sensing. However with the IR, you can set it up to track the IR beacon, or you could use it as a remote control.

Can you make that "S@H website" thing a hyperlink?

Thanks! This was really helpful. We went for EV3 retail and it was definitely the right choice, many Jonny 5 robots have now been built. Main issue in upgrading NXT design to EV3 was the different motors, but we modified the build successfully.


text:
What are the programming languages that can be used on Lego Mindstorm EV3?
My son is interested in robotics. For me, I would like maximum flexibility for programming. For my son, I guess something simpler would be preferable so that his interest is not killed by complexity right from the start.
What are the programming languages that can be used on Lego Mindstorm EV3?
I am new to Lego Mindstorm.

With ev3dev pretty much any programming language you can run or compile for the ARM board can be used. All you really need to be able to do is read and write to a file. This is because ev3dev is based on Debian Linux and has drivers to communicate with the hardware through virtual files.
That being said, typically you will probably want to use a library which abstracts the low-level API. The following are currently well-supported.

Python
Java
Go
C++
C
Prolog
Vala, Genie, and other GObject-based languages
Rust

You can find the full list and some other 3rd-party libraries on the ev3dev Programming Languages page.

I would definitely check out EV3Dev.  You find a large variety of different languages to program your Mindstorm Ev3.  You can use EV3Python to program with python which might be a level-appropriate step up from the Lego programming interface.

If your son has no previous knowledge from other programming languages I suggest to start with the LEGO language called EV3-G. That's the visual one included with the EV3. As an alternative you an use the Open Roberta Project which uses a visual language too, but a slightly different one in terms of concepts.
If you want to program the EV3 by yourself you can choose between various options. There are bindings/libraries at least for C, C++, C#, Java, Python. Good mentions are MonoBrick (C#) and LeJOS (Java).
With a little bit more information about your preferences and your goals I think you can get more detailed recommendations.

There's an extension for Scratch to work with EV3 - might be worth a look.

http://kaspesla.github.io/ev3_scratch/

The Scratch extension seems more focused on making controllers for your games than controlling the actual robots with scratch.

I know three variants:

LEGO MINDSTORMS EV3 Home Edition
LEGO MINDSTORMS Education EV3
ROBOTC

Another option is Small Basic, designed for children. Download EV3Basic and get started!


text:
Anyone knows this Star Wars model? Grey and dark red with axles for side modules

Got this from a yard sale and now looking for the building instructions.

Definitely 75039-1: V-Wing Starfighter:

Instructions (2 different copies, US and EU):

6079505
6079506

The different versions are to support A4 or "US Letter" sizes - "Building instructions labeled "NA" or "V39" may be printed on US standard letter size paper, building instructions labeled "IN" or "V29" may be printed on EU standard A4 paper" - in this case 505 is the A4, while 506 is the letter size.


text:
Does the Mindstorms RCX Input Ports have a Pull-Down Resistor?
Sorry for the strange question. I was wondering if anyone knew anything about the internals of the RCX mindstorms brick. Specifically, does it have a pull-down resistor (if no sensor is connected, will it read 0)?

The RCX input port has a pull-up resistor, not a pull-down (so it reads high: 1024 in raw mode). You can see reverse engineered I/O port electronics here: http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?f=109570

Thank you for the response! Just want to double-check: if I connect a button to the RCX, it would read that it is on when it is off and vice-versa?

Depends on how you read it! in raw mode, you would get 0 (or a low value if your switch has some internal resistance as does the RCX touch sensor) with switch pressed, 1024 if released. But if you configure your sensor as a touch sensor, you'll get 0 if released, 1 if pressed.


text:
Scroll screen in EV3 Home Edition program
I'm using LEGO Mindstorms EV3 Home Edition program to program my robot. Typically a program becomes wider than the screen. However, no horizontal scrollbars appear on screen.
So how can I view and edit my entire program if there are no scrollbars? There is no vertical scrollbar, but for that I can use my mouse's scrollwheel.

There is a BUG with grey arrows.. sometimes they show, sometimes they don't. So, thank you, now I know I don't have to zoom out to be able to see my program!

Using the mouse, you can click on the gray arrows on the edges of the screen (indicated with red arrows below). You will need to close the Content Editor to be able to see the one on the right clearly.
Another option using the mouse is to use the "pan" tool. Click on the tool icon that looks like a hand (circled in red below). Then use it to click and drag anywhere in the work area.
You can also use the keyboard arrow keys. First click on any blank white space to make sure that no blocks are selected, then press the arrow keys to scroll.

Thanks. Why would Lego want to follow conventions when they can come up with their own? :-)

You can click your mouse on screen outside the blocks of your program and then use arrow keys to scroll the program

The easiest way for me, is using SPACE key. Press down and hold SPACE while dragging the programming canvas, the canvas should move with your cursor.

Thanks for sharing, and welcome to Bricks.SE!

Use different editor as in mobile

Mobile devices lack almost all code blocks, so it's no use. Besides, they don't give the instructions for building and programming the robot.


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Moving the motor to certain initial position
I was assisting my child in EV3 missions, specifically, the 3rd mission of TRACK3R, the one where the robot has to grab two tires and put them elsewhere.
The mission requires to manipulate the Medium motor at about 90 degree turns: 90 degrees anti-clockwise means "close" and 90 degrees clockwise means "open".
It quickly becomes a hassle to reset the hand to the initial position, from whatever position is was left after the program exited. Forcing the motor to turn until it can't no more is not a solution, because the motor gets stuck, green LEDs on the brick are blinking, and the action block in the software does not advance.

If you are using the mode "turn by N degrees", it will become stuck. However, you can try using the other mode - "turn for N seconds" and it will work. It will work because the first mode will keep trying to run the motor until the motor turns exactly by 90 degrees, and so the program will appear stuck. In the second mode the motor will be on for specified number of seconds and then the program will go to the next block even if the rotation was less than 90 degrees.