text:
Am I able to use the Chrome version of the Mindstorm software on a Windows/Mac laptop?
We currently teach Lego robots as part of our Technology curriculum, but we are 1-to-1 in a BYOD environment. So we have all different types of devices the students use including Chromebooks, Windows and MacOS.
Is there a way a Windows (or MacOS) user can use the Chrome app version of Mindstorm software?
I keep getting a message to go do "Lego Downloads" to when I try to open the app in a Chrome browser.

LEGO Education has a new programming software called EV3 Classroom that will work on Windows, Mac and Chromebooks that can run Android apps. This is probably the best option for the devices listed but won't work on all Chromebooks. It is available from the LEGO Education download page.
The retired Chrome app only works on Chromebooks.
MakeCode could be an option too.


text:
Bag 3 identification help!
I have bag #3 with 539R7 underneath it. The plastic bag has 135149 which indicates it’s from 2011. The bag has red, black, and dark grey pieces along with 6 wheels.
Any help would be appreciated.

Could you add a picture of the bag?

The printing and barcodes on the bag are a Lego Stock Keeping Unit that identifies the type of bag used. Think of it like the barcode on a reusable grocery bag. The code lets you know the kind of bag it is but not what groceries are in the bag.

I’ll post one in the morning, thanks.

@Dan1138 I guess these barcodes actually tell TLG what is inside. It is easier to identify content by code rather than included parts. Only downside - database for these codes is private and, due to lack of access to it, numbers found on bags are useless for community.

I added pics, hopefully this helps. Thanks!

According to BrickLink, 60183 Heavy Cargo Transport seems to be the only set that has all of

Red 4 x 6 plate
White Tile, Round 2 x 2 with Open Stud
Tile, Round 2 x 2 with Open Stud

Other pieces seem to match. I'd thought the 4 x 4 round plates were LtBley (for sure the one near the bottom), but the inventory shows only DkBley.

source: Stack Exchange

license: Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/

sort: votes


text:
Program just stops motors and won't move
I'm trying to make a program in the NXT software that turns on the motors unlimited, then waits until something is less than 30 cm, stops the motors, turns to the left 30 degrees and saves the value of the ultrasonic sensor as L and then turns to the right 30 degrees and saves the value as R. Then it compares both values and if R is more than L then it goes forward indefinitely otherwise it turns 30 degrees to the left and then continues.
I can't seem to make a program that does that. Every time I test my program it just stops the motors and moves when I put my hand in front of it and then it just stops again. This is what I've tried.
TestTest.rbt

Can you share a screenshot of the program?

@DavidLechner Yeah I will.

@DavidLechner nvm i got it fixed i didn't have an unlimited block at the start and the loop just made it stop

I had to add an unlimited block

all_licenses: Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/


text:
Extra Pieces for Lego Gadgets Book
My son is having a lot of fun with the Lego Gadget set (book and bricks), but he can only build one thing at a time, and would love to have a lot more of the types of Lego bricks that came with the Gadget set. I looked on the Lego website in the "Pick a Brick" section, and wasn't able to find these bricks. Does anyone know where I can find extra Lego Gadget bricks without having to buy more of the full book/bricks set? Thanks!

Rebrickable has inventory of elements included with this book. This website has also an options to add these elements to wanted list for Bricklink as well as BrickOw. Each element has links to both websites (Bricklink and BrickOwl) so use the one you prefer to acquire elements you actually need.
Once you know the element you need you could also buy them directly from LEGO via "Bricks & Pieces" found on LEGO Support page. Although it is a bit slightly more complicated since book doesn't have a set number and you have to look up each element individually.

You could buy extra parts on Bricklink or Brickowl
for example

Technic, Liftarm
Technic, Brick
Technic, Gear

BrickLink!
Unfortunately, BrickLink doesn't currently list an inventory of exactly what pieces are included with that book. So you'll have to search for Technic liftarm or Technic gear and the like separately.
If you let us know what pieces you are particularly in need of, we can help create a wish list, which will allow you to find the cheapest store(s) (or perhaps the store(s) near you) with all those pieces.


text:
Soft rear suspension on Landrover Defender too low
Can't answer this officially because I haven't enough points but the photos on the only other answer are of the front end, the problem I had on the rear was that the bottom shock absorber brown crossbar should be in the cross hole on the wishbone ie the hole nearest the wheel not the round hole

10 points for you. Can you try to upload photo now? Press edit at bottom of post content to edit and add photos.

Hi Trev and welcome to Bricks - I assume you mean the question about Issues with my LEGO Land Rover Defender - Low rear? Unfortunately I can't convert a question into an answer on the other post, but you should be able to answer that question now - if you're able to do so today we can then remove this question.

"Can't answer this officially because I haven't enough points" That's strange, answering should be open to anyone, regardless of reputation levels. Perhaps you have tried to add a comment, which indeed requires 50 reputation. But adding an answer and asking a question are linked together as privileges and are available from 1 rep. So if you could ask this, you should be able to answer too, can you please check it?

I’m voting to close this question because this is not a question but an answer to an existing question. It looks like you have enough reputation now to answer the question.


text:
Volvo Articulated Hauler (42114) doesn't operate the bucket
I cannot get the rams to lift or lower the tipper body. I suspect it has something to do with the clutch mechanism since all the shafts and gears rotate freely until the clutch is connected. The white clutch mechanism seems very stiff to turn. Is this normal for this clutch in a new set?
I can get the hauler to drive and steer ok but it won't operate the loader.

Two steps below are taken from first instruction booklet for the 42114 set. Since one end of the clutch is locked it basically tells, that under normal conditions, clutch should not be spinning at all. Clutch is used as a safety feature within the build, when something get stuck, not to cause further damage to gears or human flesh. So in this case it should only begin spinning if the rest of the gear train is having issues.

I'm not entirely sure what could be causing your issue of bed not operating, but I suspect one other tricky place could be the reason. Please pay attention to the location of 20 tooth bevel gear for each side (highlighted in blue) in the pictures below. One of these needs to be on top on one side and on the bottom on the other. If placed in the same direction, one side will pull while the other will be pushing.

I built this project and found that I also had issues with the build. After several rip-aparts and tests, I discovered what I believe many are messing up on this build.

The early steps of building the gearbox are crucial to later success.

Once you get the gearbox built, but before you have connected the motors, operate everything manually to ensure that the purple clips and the orange shifter are aligned as shown in the diagram.

Also, be sure that each of the shift rings is connected properly to the orange shifter. You can test this by rotating the purple shift actuator axle above and ensuring that all 3 shift rings move accordingly.

Don't forget the extra red gears at the end of the gearbox assembly. If you have extra gears sitting in a bag at the end of bag 1, you probably did something wrong.

The shifting works as follows:
There is a Park Gear at full clockwise for the purple clip. It will be at the bottom. This is also where you can operate the dump function.

1st gear is 90 degrees counterclockwise with the purple clip away from you.

2nd gear is with the purple clip straight up.

3rd gear is with the purple clip flat and towards you.

Once you've fully assembled the model and connected the cab to the rear unit you can test to be sure that everything functions correctly.
Be sure and do a recalibration if you changed anything in the gearing.
I had forgotten that there is a 3rd differential hidden underneath the yellow 3x3 / under the dump function gearing in the center. If you don't connect the cab or alternately connect a geared load to the center shaft, nothing will operate and you'll wonder why.
Hopefully, these more detailed instructions will get you unstuck and you'll be operating your truck in no time.

Whenever you refer to the instructions, could you include the exact step numbers (to make it easier to understand what part of the build you're referring to). You might even include images from the instructions for extra clarity. If I understand correctly, your points 2 and 3 refer to step 42 on pages 30 and 31, and your point 4 refers to step 50 ? And the "3rd differential" is the one from step 95 ?

A video showing the dumper drive running forward (up) and backward (down) can be seen here. I didn't make the video but it helped me correct the problems I was having with my build. https://bricksafe.com/pages/VermontDave


text:
Replace brick inplace in Studio 2.0
I'm using Studio 2.0 to design my MOC.
Is there a way to replace a brick in my design by another other than removing it an setting a new brick on the old place? Best would be when the replaced brick keeps the properties (color, rotation) of the old one.

I tried a few things in Studio 2.2.1 and I couldn't come up with any way to do this.

So "no" seems to be the answer. Thanks for trying @chicks.

It is unlikely, since it would rely on the replacement piece having the same relative connection information (at least for the attached ones)

The latest versions of Bricklink have a "Replace" feature when clicking on a part. You can find all the parts by part number in your build by searching the part number in the Step List. I used this to replace rare colors of 1x2 jumper plates 3794a with the more modern and cheaper 15573.
Related: How to Replace Expensive Parts in your MOCs video

In Bricklink Studio go to File > Export As > Export as LDraw...
Open the file in any text editor such as Notepad
Find the Bricklink part ID you want to replace it. It will be a number followed by a .dat extension.
If you have multiple identical bricks with different colours, check the colour id in the second column. Bricklink has a list of colour ids for reference.
Replace the part ID that precedes the file extension with a valid Bricklink part ID.
Save the file (as a .ldr file)
In Bricklink Studio open the file with File > Import > Import Model...

In this example I replaced the Green (ID 2) #3003 2x2 brick with a #3941 2x2 round brick.

The rest of the data includes rotation, transformation and meta data which you should leave unless you know for sure how it works. There are no guarantees connections will be valid, as each part has their own unique geometry and fixed pivot point.
In this case I could safely replace these two parts as their geometry is very similar.
0 Untitled Model
0 Name:  Block Tower
0 Author:  Ambo100
0 CustomBrick
1 4 20.000000 -24.000000 -60.000000 1.000000 0.000000 0.000000 0.000000 1.000000 0.000000 0.000000 0.000000 1.000000 3003.dat
1 14 20.000000 -48.000000 -60.000000 1.000000 0.000000 0.000000 0.000000 1.000000 0.000000 0.000000 0.000000 1.000000 3003.dat
1 2 20.000000 -72.000000 -60.000000 1.000000 0.000000 0.000000 0.000000 1.000000 0.000000 0.000000 0.000000 1.000000 3941.dat
1 1 20.000000 -96.000000 -60.000000 1.000000 0.000000 0.000000 0.000000 1.000000 0.000000 0.000000 0.000000 1.000000 3003.dat

Notes
This may interfere with generated instructions, it is recommended to replace all parts before creating instructions.
Many text editors have a 'Find and replace' feature you can use to replace all parts as each line only refers to one part. I would recommend using regex expressions if you are familiar with them, I have created an example that can be played with here.
Add the following replacement expression in the 'Replace' window on the bottom of the screen. NEWPARTID must be changed to the new part you want to replace with. (3941 for example). Make sure you don't remove the 1 at the start.
$1NEWPARTID.dat

For finding only certain colours you can use this search expression.
((?:\d+\s+)(?:COLOURID)(?:\s.*))(?:(PARTID).dat)

Replace COLOURID and PART ID (14 and 3003 for example).

Well, this is not a very comfortable solution, but at least it is a solution. Thank you.

I’m afraid it might be the only solution. As Matthew Jensen mentioned that from a technical point of view it would be difficult to replace parts and have the software guarantee valid connections and avoid any overlapping parts. For this reason I don’t think the feature was included but it might be worth contacting the developers to ask about it.


text:
Can you tell me which LEGO set number this is?
I bought this Lego set off the internet and I can’t figure out the set number.  Can someone tell me the set number?

Thanks for the quick response!

I see some elements without LEGO logo on top of the studs, so it not entirely a LEGO set.

As @mindstormsboi pointed out, it's a modification of 60009-1 Helicopter Arrest
According to BrickLink, the only sets with both those RBrown stairs and the 100 tile are:

10218-1 Pet Shop
10232-1 Palace Cinema
10246-1 Detective's Office
10255-1 Assembly Square
10264-1 Corner Garage
41108-1 Heartlake Food Market
60009-1 Helicopter Arrest
60069-1 Swamp Police Station
60130-1 Prison Island

and that doesn't look exactly like any of them. But if you remove 60009's  vehicles and pier and add a few bits, it's a good match.
I won't say never, but Lego doesn't often (that I know of) sell sets with treasure chests where the lid doesn't match the base. But @Zhaph - Ben Duguid noted that 60009 does.

The two parts you picked make totally good sense and prove your case.  Just to add: I don't think that garage door or the tiles over the windows are in very many sets either.

I ignored the tiles because you never know if they are printed or stickered, and I've found BrickLink inventories which have some stickers in the Counterparts section, but not all stickers.
And it just takes one designer who wants to bring back some old piece (like I read happened to the old lamp post) and suddenly it's in a dozen sets, so who knows if that will happen to the garage door pieces. They've been used in Friends sets as a shower door, if memory serves.

Its a MOD of 60009 i think.

As @mindstormsboi mentions, it looks like it's based very heavily on Helicopter Arrest, which does indeed include the multi-coloured treasure chest.

@Zhaph-BenDuguid I think it might just be Helicopter Arrest with the "pier" broken off, and none of the vehicles or minifigs.

@nick012000 it's had a small bird and light added as well ;)

As @mindstormsboi pointed out, it looks a lot like 60009. I fear if I delete this answer and re-answer, this related discussion will also disappear, so I'll just edit it.

I would like to explicitly express my appreciation of how my mistake was pointed out ever so politely and gently. Thanks!


text:
Who can use "LEGO Official Store" for an online LEGO store?
Recently I visited a LEGO shop on an e-commerce platform, mainly for local market in Vietnam, what caught my eyes was the shop name: "LEGO Official Store". Although there was no information about this shop, I found out later that this shop owned by Viet Tinh Anh (VTA) - a company claims themselves as an "exclusive LEGO distributor" in Vietnam.
I have thought that only LEGO can use "LEGO Official Store" e.g. they said here "We also sell directly through LEGO Shop and our LEGO Stores (the official LEGO shops)." but not their wholesaler/distributor, is it correct?
More information, VTA (aforementioned distributor) actually is also a retailer and has their own brand name for their toy stores (brick and mortar) as My Kingdom. They sell toys from many brands, not just LEGO, so I'm sure they cannot use this name for stores on the street. But can they use it for an online shop that only sells LEGO products?

Possibly anyone if the government doesn't care to punish them for it.

As far as I am aware there are 3 types of LEGO stores:

Owned and operated by TLG.
Licenced by TLG to 3rd party to operate under LEGO brand. In this group (most likely) your official region distributor may have a shop dedicated to LEGO brand only, however it doesn't offer benefits of official shops operated by TLG. Mainly the VIP points. Company owning such shop(s) could have other toy related shops operated under different (non LEGO) names.
Shops operated without proper license and guidance as mentioned in this post on LAN from 2017. Cannot really tell much as I have not encountered this type.

My understanding second type could also be called "Official LEGO Store" since it follows strict TLG requirements and recommendations. If you are not very much into this hobby you may not even recognize, that this kind isn't operated by TLG.

It seems there is no public policy for this kind of stores, and there is no way for outsiders to know if a store is licensed or not :)

LEGO has some arrangements in Asia (I think currently it's only in Asia, but I don't think anyone has said it can't be done elsewhere), where third parties get a permission/license to call stores official.

Israel if I recall correctly also has such a shop. It was mentioned some time ago in another question here.

@Tonny arguably Israel is part of Asia, at least geographically.

@PaŭloEbermann I happen to know some people from Israel and they don't consider themselves Asian at all. First and foremost they are either Jewish (including the ones that aren't religious) or Palestinian. If you further ask explicitly about geographic region most of the people from a Jewish background will say Europe and the Palestinians will say Middle East or Arab. At least that is my experience.

LEGO's Asia Pacific operations, headquartered in Singapore, operates under the LEGO Group. Not sure about other Asian countries but here in SG our orders with e-commerce platforms such as Lazada, Qoo10 and Shopee are fulfilled by LEGO Singapore themselves. We also have LEGO Certified Stores that operate as their own entities, licensed but not managed by LEGO Singapore - those are not related to the LEGO Official Store seen on the aforementioned e-commerce platforms.

@LegoSonicBoy Interesting, I don't think they are LEGO Certified Stores as I mentioned above that they only use the "official store" for an online shop, not their own brand stores both online/offline.

@Tien Do: Yeah, LEGO Official Stores online are managed by LEGO or their regional distributor.


text:
EV3 .py to .rbf?
So, I need to send an rbf file from my computer to e-mail for a tournament.  I'm currently using python with the ev3 microPython setup and vscode. The question is, where or how can I get the rbf file from a .py code?

I don't think an .rbf file is ever generated, the microPython interprets and executes the .py file directly. .rbf files were executable files generated by the EV3 software, i.e. either the graphic programming language in the old version (with blocks you needed to draw) or the scratch based new software. I think you should contact the tournament organizers and ask if a .py file is acceptable...

@MichaelVerschaeve, you should convert your comment to an answer. :-)

I did so but wasn't sure it was an answer, could always be that some enthousiast had written a Python to .rbf compiler, although I think it unlikely.

I don't think an .rbf file is ever generated, the microPython engine installed on the flash disk interprets and executes the .py file directly. .rbf files were executable files generated by the EV3 software, i.e. either the graphic programming language in the old version (with blocks you needed to draw) or the scratch based new software. I think you should contact the tournament organizers and ask if a .py file is acceptable...


text:
Export an object from Blender to LDraw
I have modeled a custom part in Blender and I would like to get it into LDraw format for use in LDCad and LPub3D.
I don't know much about 3D formats, but Blender can export collada, alembic, fbx, gltf 2.0, wavefront, and x3d.
I don't need the part to properly use LDraw primitives for my purposes (and I imagine that kind of conversion isn't possible), but just to convert the mesh into the sort of tris and quads that ldraw can understand.

In the end, I exported from blender to STL file and used http://marc.klein.free.fr/lego/stl2dat/stl2dat.html to convert to DAT. The final result worked well, and you can see the custom part used alongside regular ldraw parts in the build instructions here: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-68128/seejay/glittering-viper-rainbow-bears-starfighter/#details
The ldraw model was built in LDCad and the instructions were built in LPub3d.

Thanks for the rebrickable link.  The pens look great in the instructions and renders.

I think LDPartEditor can do what you want.
https://nilsschmidt1337.github.io/ldparteditor/

Thanks for your answer. I somehow missed it at the time. I ended up not using that approach, but worth exploring. I'll answer the question with what I ended up doing.


text:
Where can I get parts lists from sets by numbered bag?
I have a hodge podge of LEGO pieces that I am trying to organize into sets. I have most of the boxes so it hasn’t been too difficult, just time consuming. Anyway, I’m currently working on set 75093. Bags 1, 2, 4, and 5 are open. Bags 3 and 6 are still sealed. I’d like to not open them, if possible. Problem is I can’t see all the parts in the bags and I’d like a list of parts by bag number. Is there such a thing? My concern is I may be duplicating/using pieces that might belong to other sets trying to complete this set.

I'm afraid there's no registry keeping records of elements included in each numbered part.
Instructions for 75093 set show which parts of a set could be assembled from each numbered bag, including parts for each step. You can then collect elements listed under each step to combine into numbered bags of your own. Getting all extra pieces might be a little hard, since you cannot check what is included in sealed bags. However you can guess which ones should have been included in opened bags. You can check which Extra parts come at the bottom on Bricklink's page for 75093 set.

peeron.com used to maintain bag information, but hasn't been updated in a long time.

Thanks for responding. I considered what you are saying, but here’s my question: I’ve noticed that not all parts to a particular module are contained in the corresponding bag for that module and I’ve found that some left over parts often go to another module. That being the case, I was really hoping there was a database somewhere that listed parts by bag number. Oh well, I guess I’ll have to open the remaining bags to know for sure I have a complete “set.” I’m not worried about the few extras that Lego throws in. Thanks again for your response!

@Tiger37229 perhaps you mean that some left over elements (say from bag #1) that you've used further in the build were Extra parts from that bag. You would still end up with the same Extra elements in the end.

My experience backs up @Alex - I am confident I've never had, say, a part from bag 1 which was not used in the bag 1 section but was needed in, say, the bag 2 section, because there weren't enough in bag 2. This would have messed up the ability to split a big set into multiple concurrent builds by multiple groups of children when a birthday party got rained out so a big Jurassic World set got opened for everyone to build (to pick an example which happened to us in the Before Times).

It’s possible that leftover parts were just extra parts that often come with Lego sets, and it’s possible that in the act of assembling a set it just appeared as though left over parts from say bag 1 were needed in a subsequent module, but I’m trying not to open unopened bags or use parts from other sets to complete this particular set leaving me short with those sets. It appears I’m just going to have to bite the bullet and open the remaining bags. Thanks for the responses.


text:
Identify white element on back of Apple monitor
Please help me identify this part - the white piece / pieces at the back? The instructions are no longer available and all i can find is this fuzzy picture. I can work out the rest, but this has baffled me. Thanks!

Looks like this may be Chris McVeigh's iMac design? Looks like the wayback machine may have some LXF files archived if that is useful to you.

If I understand which part you are referring to, it looks like Hinge Plate 3 x 4 Locking Dual 2 Finger (44570) to me.

It's tough to tell for sure what it is connected to, but it is probably Hinge Plate 1 x 4 Locking Dual 1 Finger (44568)

Thank you, it is Chris' but can't find the build guide anywhere! It's been taken off. I had a feeling it was that hinge plate, will try that, thanks so much!


text:
Can anyone identify these parts? Technic, liftarm connected to a circle

I'm trying to follow a video MOC tutorial but I can't figure out what this brick is. Part number would help.

It looks like some 44224 Technic, Rotation Joint Disk with Pin Hole and 3L Liftarm Thick and some 44225 Technic, Rotation Joint Disk with Pin and 3L Liftarm Thick - probably two of each, connected by pins.


text:
How do I sync audio and movement on my NXT 2.0?
How do I sync audio and movement with my NXT 2.0? I'm building an animatronic head and I can't find a good way to sync it with external audio because the internal speaker is too quiet.

How long is your audio, what type of device are you using to play external audio and is there anything you have tried so far in regards to syncing?

Its pretty short audio, maybe only a few seconds. I did try having the audio play from the internal speaker but it was really quiet and the movements wouldn't sync up with the movements.

Is this playing through a computer or a device showing a screen?


text:
Rename Submodel in Studio 2.0
Is it possible to rename a submodel in BrickLink's Studio 2.0? I couldn't find any appropriate function within the program.
Last time I've done it the "hard" way by modifying the .ldr files within the .io archive (the archive password can easily be found "out there"). But that should not be the recommended way, should it?

It's as simple as:
Right click on the submodel in the step list → rename.
I don't know, why I didn't see this earlier. I would bet, I tried that before.  ;-)

I don't blame you for missing it, though. It's a bit unfortunate that the option doesn't appear in the context menu when right-clicking the submodel directly in the 3D view.

You're right, indeed, @ChristianRau.


text:
Are Chinese clone brands considered to be safe for children?
Is there some kind of official source regarding the safety of bricks made by brands other than LEGO®?
I'm not talking about choking hazard or similar (these are obvious) but heavy metal (lead, ..) or other chemicals in the bricks.
Some brands (Xingbao, CaDa, Mould King, Happy Build, ...) have some really nice sets (original designs of course) and are officially available for purchase in the EU/Germany so they need to have a CE marking and possibly passed other tests like TÜV. But there doesn't seem to be a comprehensive source on which brands to avoid or which ones are considered good.

UPDATE:
I found the page of the "China Toy & Juvenile Products Association" (CTJPA) where several suppliers are listed including Sembo and Qman with their certifications (f.e. EN 71).

I guess some brands are safer than others. You might want to read https://uploads.brickset.com/docs/clonebrands_v1.8.pdf (unfortunately I haven't been able to find a newer version, versions were made annually from 2014-2018)

In my opinion an answer to your question cannot be found because of a fundamental distrust of the China supply chain. Remember link this is the supply chain that put industrial plasticizer in baby formula to boots protien test results.

Given that perceived 90% of all goods are "Made in China" including phones, toys, ... (actually no food!) and no one seems to worried about that, I don't think there is a fundamental distrust in the Chinese supply chain in general. However with bricks being somehow special as there are multiple sources (amazon, aliexpress, whish.com, yourwobb.com, ..) where sets can be bought directly in China with no "official" importer involved...

I'm surprised no consumer testing magazine/organization (like Stiftung Warentest) seems  to have tested non-LEGO® bricks. Probably the off-brand bricks are just gaining more and more attention as the quality seems to have improved and LEGO® ... (well it's LEGO®)

Is there some kind of official source regarding the safety of bricks
made by brands other than LEGO®?

As far as I am aware, no.  At least not specifically for construction brick toys.

Some brands (Xingbao, CaDa, Mould King, Happy Build, ...) have some
really nice sets (original designs of course) and are officially
available for purchase in the EU/Germany so they need to have a CE
marking and possibly passed other tests like TÜV.

The CE marking indicates a product has passed health, safety, and environmental protection standards for sale within the European Economic Area. The individual tests vary between industries but are not necessarily a certification of quality. The CE marking is also found on products sold outside the EEA that have been manufactured to EEA standards.
LEGO products adhere to the EU Toy Safety Directive and the US Consumer Product Safety Improvement Act. The approval process involves 'simulating things like children biting, dropping, and stepping on LEGO elements to ensure they don’t break'*
In regards to the concern of chemical safety of LEGO clones, CE is a good indicator that a product passes certain safety criteria, there are of course other certification marks covering different regions.
If a LEGO clone has no credible certification mark does that mean it is unsafe? We simply do not know. The effort to test the safety of all these uncertified brands is too great. Parts vary widely in their colour (each individual colour has a unique chemical composition) as well as material (whether they are hard plastics, soft plastics, transparent, opaque or even glitter plastics in some cases).
You could always clean your new bricks as a precaution, if you suspect that there might be any surface level contamination, such as oil or plastic residue used in the manufacturing process. This will not make a difference to any toxic chemicals in the composition of the bricks.
In summary, if you do not see a certification marking that you can trust, there is no guarantee of safety.

When it comes to CE markings, it's important to check if it's a real CE mark for the EEA though, because China tries to deceive customers with a similar 'China Export' logo.
See e.g. https://support.ce-check.eu/hc/en-us/articles/360008642600-How-To-Distinguish-A-Real-CE-Mark-From-A-Fake-Chinese-Export-Mark

If there's someone out there whose job is simulating stepping on LEGO elements, I certainly hopr they're paid well!

Most of them are safe, because they are made mainly out of abs plastic, but with Lego, you will be getting higher quality pieces, and you know you will always be getting the best pieces, because of quality control. From my past experience, china bricks seem fine safety wise, but I have noticed significant differences on how well the gears work, and how easy the pieces stick together.
A comparison of off-brand Legos: https://uploads.brickset.com/docs/clonebrands_v1.6.pdf
an example of the quality of a Lego brick compared to other bricks
https://i.stack.imgur.com/4xe6s.png

Question is not about plastic, but the chemicals used to produce required colors and give necessary properties to these plastics. This concern has been raised with LEGO bricks quite a few times - Do old LEGO bricks contain lead, cadmium, or other hazardous elements? and Was there ever cadmium in LEGO bricks?


text:
Which set are these 3 LEGO bags from?

I've got 3 bags.

On the bag 1 it says 529r9
Bags 2 and 3 says 629r9

Is there any way to figure out what set are these bags from?

Those codes only indicate when the bags were filled (5th and 6th day of week 29 of 2019 respectively) and give no information about the set itself. Can you attach a picture of the bags so we can identify the set by the pieces in the bags? Thanks!

Just added! Thanks!

It's Harry Potter set 75947 (Buckbeak's rescue).

How did you find out?

@til_b The wings  might have helped.

I actually looked for the umbrella first, as there are a LOT of pieces named wing and I wasn't at all confident I would get the right one. But one of the few sets with a pinkish umbrella was a Buckbeak set, so I looked at the inventory, and it had big wings that looked the same. And it turns out that is the only set that has that particular type of wing in that color. As the cellists say, viola!

Maybe I'm not remembering the movie very well, but it's odd that the guy with the axe looks like Darth Vader...

@DarrelHoffman: The resemblance wasn't striking in the movie https://harrypotter.fandom.com/wiki/Executioner?file=Walden_macnair.jpeg

@EricDuminil Indeed, I'm just wondering if the people who designed this set just used a Darth Vader helmet instead of creating a new piece because it's "close enough"?


text:
How do I import my programs from makecode (Chromebook) to my EV3 robot
While using makecode I wanted to import my file to my EV3 robot but it says that I have to connect my EV3 robot to my computer and then move the file to the robot. But since I'm on Chromebook I don't see the file of my robot and I don't know if there is a way to import programs from makecode to my EV3 robot. If this is not clear I could put more information.

Did you install the v1.10E firmware on your EV3?


text:
Is there a way to add a ultrasonic sensor on the ev3 COR3 robot?
When I built the COR3 robot I started to have some fun programming it. But then I wanted to add a ultrasonic sensor on my robot but I can't seem to find a way to place it on my robot. If you can please help me where to put it I will attach a photo to show you more information and a link.
https://ev3lessons.com/RobotDesigns/instructions/COR3.pdf

The ultrasonic sensor is useful for navigation.  This robot design has a nice skirt and positioning the ultrasonic sensor should not interfere with that skirt.  Also the ultrasonic sensor is excellent at detecting right angles like the floor meeting a wall.  So, I'd recommend positioning the sensor on either a side (for following along a wall) or the back (to slow down just before reaching a wall when backing up).  It doesn't matter a lot whether the sensor is mounted vertically or horizontally.
So, given all that how do you mount it on the robot?  Pins and a couple beams or right angle beams.  You might also find an existing small pin that can be replaced with a deeper pin.  Maybe the better answer is lots of trial and error.

Thanks for your comment. I have been waiting for someone to reply to me but I had patience. Thank you for giving me an idea to where I should put it now.


text:
Help with identifying Lego set (partial red and yellow bike)
I purchased a mixed bag of parts from a local seller and the pictured item was in the bag.  I do not recognize it and would like some help with kit number, description, etc.

This is from set # 9441: Kai's Blade Cycle

Keypart;
85970 - Slope, Curved 10 x 1, in Red

With some serious modifications and many missing pieces.


text:
Western General Store - slats and roof
I'm interested in making something like the Western General Store.  Can anyone explain how they got the slanted windows boards like that?  Also, the roof seems to use some sort of cylindrical T-brick at the apex (in the 2nd picture). Can anyone identify that piece please.

Here's an example of how walls have been built. If you look closely on original pictures you can also see 2 x 2 top hinge piece (marked in Yellow here) used for attaching it on the bottom.

Roof is, however, not connected to the top edge. This is how top edge looks on one side of the roof as it is made out of Technic pieces, mostly:

Parts are:

4623a or 4623b - Plate, Modified 1 x 2 with Bar Arm Up (Horizontal Arm 5mm or 6mm)
32013 - Technic, Axle and Pin Connector Angled #1
62462 - Technic, Pin Connector Round 2L with Slot (Pin Joiner Round)
2780 - Technic, Pin with Friction Ridges Lengthwise, Staggered, with or without Center Slots

Each of two roof surfaces are not attached to the top edge as I mentioned, however each cylindrical portion of the roof is attached to studded plates with the help of Plate, Modified 1 x 1 with Light Attachment - Thick Ring. Pictures don't tell how these are attached together. Keeping in mind we have plates visible, it shouldn't be hard to create some sort of structure underneath top surface to hold each "plate+cylinder" assembly together.

The slats seem to be 1x4 tiles on a base of overlapping 2x4 plates. It's easier to see from the inside.

The roof T-pieces are 32013 Technic, Axle and Pin Connector Angled #1 resting on a 4623b Plate, Modified 1 x 2 with Bar Arm Up (Horizontal Arm 5mm).

Are those the pieces you're looking for?

Thanks for all your help folks. I've managed to build a rought prototype of the apex of the roof and I think I understand how the technix connectors work.  Can anyone explain how the 1x1 round lbg rounds are held in place?

Starting at the top, there's 2 1x1round bricks, then a modified plate (as @Alex showed in red) which is actually attached to the big flat plate, then 4 more 1x1 round bricks (then a 1x1 round plate at the lowest point). It doesn't seem super-sturdy to me, but I think it'll hold. You could always put length-4 rods (lightsaber blades) inside to make it much stronger.

Thanks rschulz and Alex. I got it mostly put together now.


text:
I have a female fig black dress patterned slope only, long hair, intricate face
I'm looking to identify a Female minifig she has an open slope decorated skirt (no legs), long brown hair, big eyes! I think the body is wrong as it's plain black with standard yellow hands.

While there are some who might be able to do their magic with this description, there's more of us who could have a good shot if you'd include a picture. Is that an option?

@RSchulz I didn't even see a question...

Although the question could use some clarification, it looked like a fun challenge. I found one possible contender in my (non-exhaustive) search: Narcissa Malfoy

Thank you so much ! I'd  never have known Matthew. I did manage a screen shot in the end as puc was too big. Thank you as I can see I've wrong hair etc . Matthew, thanks for this as itbwas my first time here and I didn't know how it all worked.  Much appreciated

Hair is Minifigure, Hair Long. In Dark Brown color this was used by just one minifigure, the Highland Battler.

Face seems to be one of two versions of Minifigure, Head Dual Sided Female, Dark Brown Eyebrows, Crow's Feet, Smile / Angry Pattern (HP Narcissa), with Blocked Open Stud OR with Hollow Stud.

Torso is unrecognizable as the picture isn't clear enough.

"Legs" are Slope 65 2 x 2 x 2 with Bottom Tube with Light Bluish Gray Inset Skirt Pattern which, originally, belong to Narcissa Malfoy.

Since half of elements for this minifigure come from Narcissa Malfoy it must have been used as a base for modifying it.

Thanks everyone, it was Narcissa Malfoy who had been mismatched but now reassembled once I knew what to look for. This can be CLOSED...APPRECIATED HARD WORK !!

@JILLYMUPPET Thanks for the confirmation - you can mark this answer as "accepted" by clicking the tick mark under the votes - You'll also get some reputation for it.


text:
Seeking instructions to finish partially assembled custom Lego satellite (Orbital Science Corporation)
This week I found a partially assembled Lego satellite and I wanted to build it but I can't find the instructions to finish it. The satellite I'm 90% sure is a scale model from a satellite launched by Orbital Science Corporation, but I don't know which one.
My father gifted me this set in 2012 (I don't have the exact date). My father got the set from one of his friends that worked in Orbital Science Corporation at the time. According to my father the satellite can be the Koreansat6 or the Indostar-1 or the Measat 3a. If anyone happens to have the set or the instructions to it please reply, I'm desperate.
I will leave some images of the only assembled parts I have:
https://i.stack.imgur.com/28ZZD.jpg

The size of clear film used for "Orbital" stickers suggest me this is a custom set or MOC. The most recent appearance of Black Panel 3 x 3 x 6 Corner Wall used here is 1995 set.

I meant to say, that panel seen in your pictures was last included in 1995 as seen on Bricklink.

Hi Nico! I have searched for all three suggested satellite names, but found no relevant results. There is an unofficial Measat 3a model out there, but it is an entirely different scale and thus uses different parts: http://ericdeteh.blogspot.com/2015/12/measat-3b-satellite.html Long story short, I couldn't find your model either.

@Alex, thanks for looking into into, lets hope we can find something else.

@zovits Thanks for looking into it, I coudnt even find that set so its some progress.


text:
Help identify Mega Bloks pieces - giant blue hands, blue and white striped arms and feet, boards/snowshoes
I’ve been sorting through my 19 year old sons Lego and found a few Mega Bloks pieces I can’t identify. Any idea what set these blue and white pieces could be a part of?

The blue boards are from the same Mega Bloks set

ooh, clever! i didn't quite see that when looking at the front but i was suspecting the same.

The robot could be this one:

But I don't know about those boards. Mega Bloks makes minifig-size boards though.


text:
Bluetooth connection between an Android phone and EV3 brick?
I've paired my phone to the brick, however I was wondering if there were any resources out there regarding a simple android app to type something out on my phone and output it on the robots LCD screen. I am new to the scene and I have not found any resources for it.

MIT App Inventor is a popular way to make simple Android apps that can communicate with an EV3. It has special blocks just for EV3.


text:
Connecting EV3 with older motors using conversion cable
I'd like to use an EV3 brick to power an old 9V motor (74569). To do so I'm going to get one of these conversion cables (x1676) but I'm not 100% sure if it's possible to control the speed of the motor with it. I'm aware of the limitations of these cables but RPM control is crucial to my project. These cables became quite expensive nowadays so I don't want to waste money on them.

Hi Adam, I have provided a link to the conversion cable you are asking about, but I can't find any motors or other parts with the 74569 identifier. Could you please check if you got the number right, or alternatively link the motor similarly?

@zovits, 74569 is the lego id for the 9-V motor, see here: https://www.philohome.com/motors/motorcomp.htm

@MichaelVerschaeve thanks, neither Brickset nor BrickLink knew about this ID, which is quite strange. I have added the relevant link now.

Does this answer your question? Lego RCX to NXT converter cables not working properly with EV3

Not entirely a duplicate imho, the other question and answers do not reflect on suitability for speed or positional control.

You'll be able to control the 9V motor as an unregulated motor with the similar named motor block, you'll be able to set the speed approximately, but any accurate RPM control is out of the question as there is no feedback pulse signal from the motor to the EV3 telling it how fast it is going.
Also there are some programming quirks with this cable and an EV3, like having to specify two motor blocks as the first one is ignored, but I don't recall the specifics.

This is correct. Emphasis on the fact that the cable will work as expected, but the motor is inadequate for OP's purpose. A motor with no encoder can't provide any feedback.
Also, this details the "programming quirks" that were mentioned: https://bricks.stackexchange.com/a/15342/6720


text:
How does the 8365 Tuneable Racer work?
The set 8365 Tuneable Racer has tunability as its main feature, meaning the motor's parameters can be changed by adding, removing or swapping certain additional elements. However, these parts seem to be purely cosmetic, and not in any way mechanically or electronically relevant.
The instructions illustrate their intended functionality:

And similarly with the B-Model:

Based on these images, the functionality of the individual parts seem to vary in different combinations, as the last two setups for the A model hint on

having better performance than

but the B model seemingly has it inverted.
So how does this set work? My current best theory is that there are buttons inside the technic holes used to connect these parts and their states affect the motor's characteristics somehow, but I'd like to know if someone has better insights into its workings.

The first two images for the B model suggest different capabilities for the same setup, which must be an error on TLG's side, or is there something I have missed?

Edit:
This Polish forum has a review of the set with an image depicting the switches inside the Technic holes:

The text states (as translated by Google):

it can be seen that in the places where the pipes are to be finally inserted, there are buttons that control the engine's operation.

can be tuned using regular pins, using them as jumpers

This eliminates the "rotating pins providing resistance" theory, but I'm still looking for any experimental results, authoritative information or preferably a full analysis of the different combinations regarding speed and torque.

The varied horizontal positions of the B model suggest that the different combinations affect speed differently to the maximum climbable slope. The last 2 configurations of B model seem to have consistent speed effect as A model

I do not own this item, but observing the pictures leads to a logical inference.
The pins are in different locations.
If you look at parts, you will see that they are 5 pins wide.  One part has pins in positions 1 and 5, the other has pins in positions 2 and 3.
You then connect the parts to the motor.  With switches inside the motor, it can detect which holes have pins in.  This is similar to how the LEGO Super Mario figure knows which Power Up is attached - a simple way to test would be to attach normal pins in those locations, rather than the special parts that came with it.
This may not even be electronic, the pins may be physically changing the gear ratio inside the motor.  Which answers the last part of your question:  why do the performances appear to be reversed?
Because a high gear means lots of speed, but no torque (power), and a low gear means low speed, but lots of torque (power).  You can test this yourself on a bicycle.  On a flat path, a high gear will let you go really fast, while a low gear will mean you are slow.  But, going up a hill, a low gear will let you easily climb steeper hills, and a high gear will leave you stuck, exhausted, at the bottom!  So, the "high gear" item gives better performance on the "speed"/"racing" model, but the "low gear" item gives better performance on the "power"/"steep ramp" model

Wow, I completely missed the fact that the pins are different distances apart...

I don't own the set (or parts), but I might have a guess.
Of the two exhaust tubes, one seems to have pins that can rotate, and the other has fixed pins.
If the engine block they attach to outputs some of the torque to those pinholes, then attaching the exhaust parts adds resistance, therefore redirecting torque to the wheels.
The exhaust can then be configured in 3 ways;

Without tubes, providing no resistance
With single exhaust tube, providing some resistance
With triple exhaust, providing maximum resistance

The same theory could apply to the air intake, but I'm not sure how it would make it better at hill climbs. Perhaps some fancy gear ratio magic. If I get my hands on one I'll definitely try to take it apart.


text:
Can you identify this yellow LEGO vehicle?
I bought my grandson a box of LEGO and this was in it. I have tried searching for 3 days with brick numbers to find the set but can’t get any joy. If anyone can point me in the right direction I would be extremely grateful.

The set name is Cool Cruiser (5767). This is a 3-in-1 Creator set with pictured model being one of these three:

Why did they put the boring model in the featured position on the box?  (Or is that just me ...) (Possible answer: instead of trying to appeal to the 8yr olds who'd use the set they were appealing to their mommies who'd buy the set ...)

@davidbak Boring?? One person's or kid's boring is another's exciting, I presume.

@alex could you show your process for working this kind of thing out?  You're obviously quite good at it.   Do you filter on Brickset for colour and obviously unusual parts, ie "mostly yellow, with 4 bigger than normal wheels" ?

@Criggie Depending on a case I use Bricklink, Rebrickable and Brickset. But mostly Bricklink due to best part catalog and good set inventories. Then the process is rather simple - identify the most unique element+color combination as a starting point. Depending on rarity it may direct you the set in question or narrow down the research. Then pick up second part (and maybe 3rd). Sometimes I pickup two parts and compare which sets they are part of. In this case Technic, Gear Rack 1 x 8 with Holes was sufficient enough.


text:
I need help identifying the set for 37 bags
We bought a set of returns of which one should have been the 6020 piece Hogwarts castle.  We received 37 bags that are represented in the pics below packaged neatly in the Hogwarts box.  We have bags 1-37 with no instructions and no idea which set they belong to.  We might as well build it since it's here.  :)  Any help would be great.

Based on the 2 answers, you seem to have paid for a set worth $400 and received about $80 worth of parts. Have you alerted the seller that they need to be more vigilant about checking their returns?

I know.  Pretty frustrating.  It was a big box store, so not sure they will listen, but worth a try.

Maybe the unusually high numbers on the bags provide a clue. In fact, I have never encountered a set going up 30-something in bag numbers, so maybe it is from some different series (LEGO educational or even LEGO serious play).

71043 (the big Hogwarts castle) does contain bags numbered that high, 10276 (Colosseum) apparently also does (but the colors of OP's parts rules that set out)h, it seems 75192 does NOT.

Building instructions for the large castle can be found here. Sadly it doesn't appear to include a blue door in bag 36 :(

I believe you have a mix of at least two sets: 11005 Creative Fun and one of either 10717 Bricks Bricks Bricks or 11717 Bricks Bricks Plates.

Bag 36 contains a Door 1 x 4 x 6 with 4 Panes and Stud Handle (Medium Blue) which was featured in 5 sets.
11003 Bricks and Eyes
10264 Corner Garage
10703 Creative Builder Box
10702 Creative Building Set
11005 Creative Fun
10260 Downtown Diner
31025 Mountain Hut
31065 Park Street Townhouse

Bag 36 also contains a Plate, Round 4 x 4 with Hole (Dark Tan) which was featured in 22 sets.
41167 Arendelle Castle Village
75958 Beauxbatons' Carriage: Arrival at Hogwarts
11005 Creative Fun
11013 Creative Transparent Bricks
80102 Dragon Dance
71730 Epic Battle Set - Kai vs Skulkin
70674 Fire Fang
41395 Friendship Bus
71043 Hogwarts Castle
76129 Hydro-Man Attack
70668 Jay's Storm Fighter
70667 Kai's Blade Cycle & Zane's Snowmobile
70675 Katana 4x4
70677 Land Bounty
70680 Monastery Training
30534 Ninja Workout polybag
40342 Ninjago 2019 Minifigure Set blister pack
75270 Obi-Wan's Hut
75937 Triceratops Rampage
70840 Welcome to Apocalypseburg!
70419 Wrecked Shrimp Boat
75255 Yoda

These two pieces have only appeared together in 11005 Creative Fun.

However, bag 32 contains a Slope, Curved 3 x 1 x 2 with Stud (Lime) which was featured in 19 sets - none of which were 11005 Creative Fun.
11011 Bricks and Animals
10717 Bricks Bricks Bricks
11717 Bricks Bricks Plates
70803 Cloud Cuckoo Palace
10703 Creative Builder Box
10702 Creative Building Set
8961  Crystal Sweeper
45810 FIRST LEGO League (FLL) Jr Challenge 2019 - Boomtown Build Inspire Set
41345 Heartlake City Pet Center
71367 Mario's House & Yoshi - Expansion Set
41339 Mia's Camper Van
60270 Police Brick Box
7676  Republic Attack Gunship
75021 Republic Gunship
21208 Resort Designer
76134 Spider-Man: Doc Ock Diamond Heist
70922 The Joker Manor
41455 Unikingdom Creative Brick Box
60125 Volcano Heavy-lift Helicopter

Bag 32 also contains a Slope 45 2 x 4 (Lavendar) which was featured in 7 sets.
10717 Bricks Bricks Bricks
11717 Bricks Bricks Plates
10704 Creative Box
41340 Friendship House
41108 Heartlake Food Market
41310 Heartlake Gift Delivery
41253 Lonesome Flats Raft Adventure

These two pieces have only appeared together in 10717 Bricks Bricks Bricks and 11717 Bricks Bricks Plates.

I thought one of the sets (and there did seem to me also that there had to be multiple) would be 11011 Bricks and Animals https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?S=11011 due to the Dark Pink "fingernail" piece https://www.bricklink.com/catalogItemIn.asp?P=24246&colorID=47 and the Light Aqua Brick, Modified 1 x 1 with Stud on 1 Side https://www.bricklink.com/catalogItemIn.asp?P=87087&colorID=152 and Lime Slope, Curved 3 x 1 x 2 with Stud https://www.bricklink.com/catalogItemIn.asp?P=33243&colorID=34

TLDR. Although bricks seem to be packed in sealed bags, these looks to be a mixture of parts since none of existing set inventories contain such combination of bricks.

More details below.
Based on the colors of the bricks you have received this is definitely not a Hogwarts Castle.
Let's start with contents of bag #36, since it has elements easier to identify. The combination of Door 1 x 4 x 6 with 4 Panes and Stud Handle mentioned in another answer is definitely not in Medium Blue, but some shade of Azure. Checking Bricklink for colors available for this element we can conclude this is Medium Azure colored item. Now this element come in just 5 sets, none of which have Plate, Round 4 x 4 with Hole OR Brick, Round 4 x 4 with Hole in Dark Tan. So the set this bag comes from doesn't exist.
Now let's see bag #4. Combination of Brick 1 x 2 in Coral color as well as Slope, Curved 2 x 1 x 1 1/3 with Recessed Stud in Lime may suggest this is Bricks and Animals (11011), but it doesn't include any of Slope, Inverted 45 2 x 2 in shades of blue. So no set for this bag as well.
Bag #19 again, suggest combination of Brick, Modified 1 x 1 with Stud on 1 Side in Coral color with Slope, Curved 3 x 1 x 2 with Stud in Lime suggest this may be Bricks and Animals (11011), but this set doesn't contain Plate 4 x 4 in Green.
These bags come from either set that has not been inventoried yet on Bricklink or incorrect bricks have been packaged for particular set (which might explain why they have been returned). The source of these bricks/bags would be some larger set from LEGO Classic series.

I went back and forth on whether that door was Medium Azure or Medium Blue and went with the one that I could find a plausible set match for. But the fact that I missed the color of the 4x4 tile too tells me I need to re-calibrate my monitor. +1 for catching that.


text:
How can I open part #53500 and replace the battery?
I've searched and can't find any info on it on how to open this LEGO part 53500
Won't open the same way as other light bricks, and don't see any clips or a continuous line where it should open. Need to change the battery inside.

I found this Youtube video
Piraka eye replacement
and this article on bzpower.com
How to Replace the Battery in Piraka Eyes

The battery used is a CR927 3V Lithium Battery placed + side up.
First, take a tiny flat-head screwdriver and place the tip of it within one of the two inward crevasses on the backside of the piece, and slide the head of the screwdriver up to the round circular portion of the piece which holds the battery. Once this is done hook the tip of the screw driver inwards and carefully pull up, the outward plastic of the second half may bend as you are doing this, however from my experience it is unlikely to be predominately bent in any major way or snap, but it's probably best not to bend it too much. Once the bottom portion of the piece has been separated you may continue to remove it, or just let it open enough for the old battery to be able to fall out and so you can place the new one in, + side up like the old one.
Once the new battery is in place snap the two halves of the piece back together, during this the battery may jostle around a bit, but just as long as you have a steady hand it's unlikely to misalign greatly, let alone fall out. Also during the process of snapping it back together the connection between the battery and metal prongs may activate, giving you a glimpse of the light emitted from the piece now. Once you have the two halves together into one with the new battery in-place, you can now test the light capability of the piece, and if all went well you can now use it properly again.

Found the instructions for set 8905 that uses this part. Problem solved: "battery is not replaceable". Disappointed !


text:
How long does it take a M-motor to go 1 googol rotations?
How long would it take a Power Functions M-motor to turn 1 googol times? I have tried figuring it out with a calculator but I was confused.

Please edit the question to show what have you tried and where did you get confused. Additionally, if you got to the point of using a calculator, you have probably learned the RPM of the motor, at which point the question is a purely mathematical one, and therefore belongs to another SE site. Nevertheless, I gave below a complete answer according to the "teach a man to fish" philosophy.

This is one of those questions where you could literally googol it....

how long does it take to turn 1 time? multiply that by 1 googol. Elementary school maths, use it!

I tried using a calculator but I couldn’t find one that could multiply by 1 googol

According to Philo's LEGO motor datasheet an unladen PF-M motor rotates with 405 RPM.
One googol is 10000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000 (10^100), so the time it takes for an M motor to go this many rotations is (10^100)/405 minutes.
Ordinary calculators usually take a look at such large numbers and throw their hands up, or can't even display them but luckily we have WolframAlpha.
This is 4.695x10^91 years, or about 3.4x10^81 times the current age of the universe. (the Universe is about 14 Gigayears old now, in 2021 :) )

I suppose the next question would be "What gear ratio would be required to get that number down to just a lifetime?"

@Ambo100 1:10^90 would suffice to bring the time down to 46 years and is a nice and round number to work with. The questions of what volume would be occupied by the resulting drivetrain and what torque would be needed to drive it, are left as an exercise to the reader :)


text:
Need help identifying or locating pieces - 4-stud T-shaped plates
I'm trying to find plates to build a baseball mascot with my kids. I can't find the actual set anywhere (it's actually a FOCO BRXLZ brand set), so I am trying to piecemeal the set. I'm not concerned with it being Lego brand, so long as the pieces will all work together to create the end product.
I've attached a picture from the instructions showing what I need in quantity and color. These are the only plates I can't find on the Lego Pick a Brick shop:

I can't speak for other brands, but I'm sure that there is no such LEGO element.
This would be a plate, but the Bricklink category has nothing exactly like this design.
The closest would be the Plate 2 x 2 Corner or Plate 3 x 3 Cross, but the first requires an additional plate, which could prove unfeasible due to the missing structural bonds, and the latter has an extra plate (which could be cut away if needed, even though that would be considered a bad choice by many).

Edit
As jpa noted below, if these parts should serve as structural support, the required strength could be achieved by attaching a Plate 1 X 3 and a Plate 1 X 1 together by their sides. These LEGO bricks are made of ABS, therefore the suitable binding agents would be acetone, cyanoacrylate (superglue), or epoxy.

Or a 1x3 beside a 1x1 in the middle; also a loss of structure, but perhaps between the two alternatives, one will work.

Thanks for reminding me that there are simple solutions as well :) Of course, there are several other possible combinations, like a 2x1 and two 1x1s, or just four 1x1s.

1x3 plate and 1x1 superglued or acetone-bonded in middle might be easier and better looking alteration than cutting 3x3 cross.

@jpa thanks, great suggestion!

I think aligning a cut cross piece would be a lot more reliable (because it's already aligned) than aligning a 1x1 glued onto the middle of a 1x3 though.

@RSchulz the best of both worlds would be to use another piece as guide to properly align the pieces before gluing then :)


text:
What set does this bag belong to? Black, grey, orange, and blue rubber band
Code on bag is 5 number 127S
bricks are black, grey and a few orange
Contains small flat white box 6049725 which contains blue magic sand

Hi Nata, can you please add a photo of the bag or its contents? Especially the "blue magic sand" would be of interest, as I can't think of anything clearly fitting that description.

6049725 contains a blue rubber band. I think ‘sand’ is a typo by the OP.

Nata, we need a picture. Also, the seal code 127S either misses the last digit, or has some digits transposed (e.g. 12S7).

Based on the colors in the bag, the potential date code of 12S7 (you wrote 127S but I assume that is a transposition error in your post), and the fact that there is a box with blue rubber bands in it (box number 6049725) I am going out on a limb and suggest this is set 75102 Poe Dameron’s X-wing Fighter from 2015. The seal code points to a 2017 production date which is possible, as this set was still being sold all the way up to early 2018. It has 5 bags (so having a bag marked 5 fits) and the 5th bag does contain both rubber bands as well as black, grey and orange pieces.

The research you did is quite impressive. I think we might not even need to have a picture to confirm now.

Thanks for your help everyone. Hope you are right. My box did in fact contain blue powder which are perished rubber bands.  Really appreciate your research.


text:
Is it a stupid idea to buy every brick in an end of sale set?
There's a set I want that is currently available on eBay for around 8-10 x its original price.
I was wondering if I could just buy every piece needed and if you guys thought that made any sense whatsoever - be aware I'm expecting several 'you're dumb' responses :)

This is not a dumb question at all and any "you're dumb" answers would likely get flagged and deleted. However, my answer would be that it really depends on the set. On average buying the set 2nd hand complete is cheaper than bricking them, but there are quite a bit of exceptions. So you might want to specify which set you had in mind.

It was 10182 and 10185, I have all of the modular buildings but these two, and my word they're spendy - thanks for coming back to me on this.

Bricking those sets doesn't work very well, they'll highly sought and plenty of people try bricking them, hence the price of the pieces goes up to match the complete sets. Ofcourse, if you are willing to compromise, e.g. leave out minifigs, use alternative colors or use other alternative bricks for the more expensive ones, profit can be made...

Thank you very much for your time to respond - I think you're right too, I'm glad I asked the question but I value everyone here's experience and will happily take your advice.

Of course it can also bring the cost down if you already have some of the pieces. Like others have said, it really depends on the set (exclusive parts, availability, etc). Sometimes it's also cheaper to buy an incomplete set and source the others elsewhere than to buy a complete set.

What happens to the postage charges if you buy your bricks singly?

@RobbieGoodwin Imagine your postman's face delivering you 2,000+ small packages in one day - and the bin-men's face with all the waste! ;)

It's a good idea, but it often doesn't work well in practice. In general, rare parts from rare sets are more expensive, so you will frequently spend more money buying all the parts for a set. As a classic example, let's look at the Airport Shuttle:

This set is expensive on the secondary market, so it could be tempting to buy the parts for it instead of the complete set. However, many of the parts are very expensive individually. The motors and monorail track are specialized parts, relatively rare, and haven't been produced in 25 years, so they are priced accordingly.
Perhaps the most egregious example of this is the single molded piece of plastic that covers the motor:

That piece is currently $67 USD used on Bricklink.
These same economic factors apply to current sets as well, so it is often hard to save money buying the parts.

Wow, that's expensive, thanks for your thoughts though, I appreciate it

There are other advantages of course in that you remove things you don’t need: instructions (most are available online), original packaging, minifigures you might not need.
You might find that you only want part of a set or you’d like to swap some pieces or colours to save money or because you prefer it that way.

As an example: I decided to BrickLink the Modular Town Hall last year. I figured I had quite some parts in my collection, so I hoped to spend $200 on the remaining parts for a set that costs $400-$500 used complete on EBay. I could have met that target if I was willing to make some compromises (e.g. no instructions or minifigs, some color substitutions) but ended up going for an exact match. I was lucky to find 2x Plate 6x24 in LBG from two different sellers for $40 shipped each (There are currently NO North American sellers), but my total ended up being a tad over $400 all-in .. same as EBay.

Another example. I've always wanted engine from 10219 set, but wasn't interested in cars. Prices are exorbitant even for used sets and there's not that much of them for sale in Europe. So I've ended up studying the model and after making some substitutions it ended up quite inexpensive. Even managed to grab incomplete sticker sheets with needed stickers (and some extra) for cheap.

Some sets that are cheap to bricklink are the retired architecture sets like the Marina Bay Sands (21021) and the Sungnyemun Gate (21016). Those sets do not contain any special pieces besides their name tiles, which you can print on a tile yourself.

It really depends on the size of the set (the smaller the better I have found out) Also, you do not want to buy it if it has a lot of minifigures, Because that is what usually makes the price so high, besides its rarity. Finally, you want to make sure that you have the sticker sheets, though those can be found pretty cheap on bricklink or brickowl.

Cheap sticker sheets for sought after sets? Of course, this depends on your income and ability to spend some hefty cash. But for general public stickers are as expensive (and hard to get) as rare elements.


text:
Is there a public library of LEGO parts ready to be imported to 3d editor?
I just found for myself mecabricks.com. Amazing! However I wonder where do they take models of their parts from? Are they all self-designed (and proprietary) or come from some open source? Is there any open library of parts ready to be imported into a 3d editor?

LDView is probably the easiest way to export parts, and it directly supports exporting POV, 3DS, and STL formats. By default the parts exported will not have smooth curves on subparts, such as studs. This may be important depending on how realistic you want you model to look in your 3D software. This can be changed in LDView by clicking on the Edit > Preferences... menu item, then clicking Primitives tab. From here, uncheck the Low Quality Studs checkbox. You may need to close and then open LDraw again to see the change.
Further update - as pointed out in the comments, I had incorrectly stated LDraw was the program that I use to export shapes to STL format. That program is actually LDView, and makes use of the LDraw library. I've updated the link to include the correct application. Apologies for the confusion.
Also, while I'm editing this, be aware that some of the shapes exported to STL format will need adjusting. Bushings and axles come to mind, as these parts will not fit together unless the axles are sized slightly smaller. Technic pins will also have similar issues due to the end flanges not being slightly chamfered as the are in real life. You'll need to make adjustments if you want some technic parts work together. Some parts also don't always correctly reflect that they have an "inside", so some areas of parts may print as hollow voids rather than with the desired infill. Check for this using your slicer software before printing.

I think you may be conflating the LDRAW parts library and one of the tools that makes use of them. LDRAW itself doesn't have any menus to select preferences from. You could probably clarify which tool you were updating the preferences in for your answer to be slightly better.

I will mark your answer as the right one, because of all the additional information that you provided - very helpful. But maybe add some links to LDRAW and general information as well, for this response to be useful for others.

You probably meant some software that has all the options you've listed but failed to mention. LDraw is just a parts library.

Most, but not all, existing LEGO oriented 3D modelling systems make use of the open source LDRAW libraries. Downloads, specifications, and more information can be found at https://ldraw.org/

Do you think mecabricks is also based on LDRAW models?

I do not know for sure, you would have to ask the people who run the site.
That said, since the LDRAW library had been available for a long time before MecaBricks was started it seems very likely that they may have started their parts library by either directly using LDRAW under the covers or by converting it to whatever format they use internally. I was not able to find anything on their site that said either way and they do not have the required license attribution on the site if they are or were using it.

@jayarjo Judging by this thread on the Mechabricks forum it looks like they're all hand modelled...

There used to be PrintABrick, but the website has been down for ages.
You can still find the code on github if you want to run it locally:
https://github.com/hubnedav/PrintABrick


text:
How to stop or freeze the EV3 large motor in position
How do I stop or freeze the large motor in a fixed position? I have a forklift type attachment that will lift to the precise height, but will not stay in position due to the weight of the attachment.
I know I can use a worm gear to solve this problem but wanted to see if there were any other solutions before redesigning the attachment.
I have tried using rotations, seconds, and degrees with a STOP at the end. Occasionally, it will stay in place but usually it drops to the mat surface.

Can you share your program?

what motors are you using? can you show photo of build? i dont understand anything

Whatever you are lifting is just too heavy. Once stopped, motor doesn't use current to keep the position. And the weight of whatever you have just lifted overcome the internal gearing and turn the motor back. As an alternative to worm gear solution I'd suggest reducing the weight of the item you are trying to lift.

I am overwhelmed by the support everyone has provided. I really did not know if I would even get a response and to get so many suggestions was wonderful. I sincerely thank everyone for taking the time to help me.
To answer some of the questions in the thread, I was using the "Large Motor" and not the "PF" Large motor. Also, since I am using the block programing tool, I do not believe the HOLD() is available. Using the HOLD would have been my desired option.
I went with Alex's suggestion and changed my attachment to use a Worm Gear with the Medium Motor (instead of the Large Motor). The result was exactly what I needed - very precise movement using motor degrees and hold the load without any problem.  Here is an image of the attachment with the medium motor and worm gear:.
Again, thanks to everyone who contributed. I truly appreciate it.
Dave

Glad you were able to work this out! Consider selecting this response as your answer since you solved your own problem.

According to the official documentation you could use
hold()

which

Stops the motor and actively holds it at its current angle.

Note: My assumption here is that you are referring to this

as "large motor". If you are using a PF Large Motor:

then this advice is useless, as those can't be controlled with such precision due to the lack of an internal rotation sensor.

This response assumes the OP is referring to Python on EV3Dev (which is not official documentation).

@MindS1 I considered it official, as this site is linked from the LEGO EV3 Support site as "Go to the online Documentation and Example Programs".

I know I can use a worm gear to solve this problem but wanted to see
if there were any other solutions before redesigning the attachment.

Without knowing the full details of your design, it would be a bit difficult to recommend anything very specific.
Is your motion of the motor limited in direction? If so, a ratchet system can be extremely effective, even a small brick can support a lot of weight. Is it possible to use a counterweight to balance the load of the weight you are lifting?
Consider adding friction to your lifting mechanism to support the weight. This could be constantly applied (in which case your motor may struggle a bit more) or applied manually or mechanically to support the weight when the motor has stopped. Most soft LEGO Technic tyres or the Technic, Axle Connector Double Flexible are appropriate for this.

I have also covered a few more solutions which may be of help in a similar question 'How can a Mindstorms robot lift something very heavy?'.


text:
Identifying a late 90's early 2000's LEGO Space Fighter/Bomber
We're moving out some of our grown kids' LEGO sets that have been in storage for a long time.
We came across a bag with all these parts in it that look to be a LEGO space ship or bomber (I say this as the canopy is more rounded leading me to guess it to be a bomber of some type. I think a fighter might have a more angled rake on the windscreen.)
I have provided some photos too. I have looked through the entire database at eBay and could not find one like it. I don't think this is custom made. Although my boys can't remember what it is either, so I decided to try the Stack Exchange

This is 7673: Magna Guard Starfighter

YES! Thank you very much Joost! This is a great looking ship!!!


text:
How do you sell Lego on Brickowl?
I was trying to start a store on Brickowl, but I noticed that, unlike Bricklink, it did not contain a sell button that was in plain sight. I searched around for it, but could not find it. If somebody could help me, That would be great.

"Creating a Store" article, found on BrickOwl's Help section, explains pretty much the entire process in details.

On the page, it says there is a link at the bottom though I can't see it.

Never mind, I found it. Thanks for the help!


text:
Mounting 'shelves' on a 57518 Lego conveyor belt
For a school project I'm trying to build a conveyor belt out of LEGO. I'm currently just working on the design so I haven't ordered anything yet. I think that for my build the 57518 pieces are perfect. My question is pretty simple: is there a way to mount some sort of 'shelves' onto it? I'm completely new to LEGO (and not a native English speaker) so I can't explain it any better. The picture below from the GBC Homepage shows exactly what I'm talking about:

I believe that the pieces used in the picture are 3873 (not sure). I can also see that in each of these light grey horizontal 'bars' there are two vertical rods that mount it on the conveyor belt itself. The 3873 pieces are not useful for me because they have too many openings.
I spent long times browsing Bricklink trying to find fitting pieces but I just don't know where to look. It would be great if somebody could provide me with links or numbers of the pieces that I need.

no, those aren't the threads in that picture. look at it up close, it's the 57518 threads! thus you can easliy add those black pins and connect beams to it!

For GBC instructions you may want to check Rebrickable

The picture you have does show a 57518 thread link, which is what you wanted to use.  For that, you can use the 1/2 and 3/4 pins to attach a liftarm.  A 1x5 liftarm would match the width of the 57518 thread.  What's shown in the picture is a 1x7 liftarm which allows the module to lift more balls.
For the pins, you should use the 3/4 pins part 32002 to be perfectly legal, but some might also use the 1/2 pins part 4274 to add friction to the connection.

Thanks for the reply, it helped a lot! Do you just "know" this or is there some place to check which parts are compatible? Because we are planning on adding 3743 gear racks, but I have no idea which gears will actually fit them.

Those gear racks, and most gear racks that Lego has, are compatible with the modern regular gears with small teeth.  You can drive a sprocket with one such gear (like 3649) via an axle, like this.

Update in early 2022 LEGO released a friction version of half pins, is canot spin freely for strong and stable connections to my models


text:
Will non-Lego remote controls work with Lego IR receivers?
I bought a KAZI model of a Chinese bullet train CRH400F a month back and want to use a remote control. I bought an IR receiver and remote control, but the other IR receiver is lost in the post.
So I'm thinking of buying a Lego IR receiver instead. Does anyone know if the Lego IR receiver (code 8884-1) will work with a non-Lego remote control (photo below)? In theory, so long as they are both on the same channel number it should be fine, right?

It depends on how faithfully the remote was copied, specifically if the electronics was copied as well as the form factor. If KAZI just took a four channel IR module that uses another protocol and stuck two of them into the casing, the sent signals would most probably be incompatible with LEGO's PF system.
The channel number is only a manufacturer convention, without any inter-corporally agreed upon standards, so there is no universally accepted "channel" for IR remotes.

@Downvoters, how could this answer be more useful, short of buying the copycat controller from the exact same company and testing it?

The channel number does not have much influence in the success or failure of the transmitter-receiver configuration. It will only work if both radio transmitters use the same frequency and encoding for signals.

This is correct, except PF uses infrared transmitters and receivers, not radios.

If you compare the internal circuitry of the clone remote to this official Lego one, if they look similar then it’s highly likely that they use the same protocol.

Image source


text:
Train level crossing using 2021 road plates
I'm interested in integrating a train level crossing into a city layout using the new road plates, but I've been struggling to figure out the best way to do this. Here's an example level crossing for reference (7936):

The space between the rails is built up using a plate and a tile to make it even with the rails and 3 plates higher than the surface. Ramps are then used to bring cars up to this level. That works well enough, and it can be used with the previous road baseplates if everything is built on a baseplate, but things are trickier with the new road plates:

These are exactly 2 plates tall, which is why I'm struggling to figure out how to best use them for a level crossing. Here's my naive attempt:

That's not terrible, but the rails are one plate higher than the surface of the road, which certainly isn't ideal. I could obviously raise all the roads up by a plate, but that also seems a bit annoying for a large layout given that all of the City sets expect the road plates to be sitting directly on a table.
I've tried using curve slopes such as 71771:

However for the height to work out the front lip of the slope has to be sitting 1/2 plate below the surface of the road, which also doesn't look great:

This seems like a common use case that TLG would have considered, especially given that they'll likely create a level crossing set at some point using this new system. Am I missing an obvious way to make this work? What is the simplest way to create a flush level crossing using the new road plates?

Have you considered the crossroad from 60198? I'm not familiar with these road plates, but the ramps used in that set are big and come in quite a few shades of grey.

@mindstormsboi I did consider those ramps. They work well with the previous baseplate roads, but the new road plates are 2 plates tall, so those ramps ends up being too tall (unless I build up the track).

You could raise one side of the road by putting a plate underneath it (thus making the whole section of road sloped). But that's not very elegant.

I think the most elegant solution would actually be to raise the road plates by one plate. While a bit annoying, you can use them to add stability to the road connections

It occurred to me that you could use 8-stud-long tiles, tilted ~3 degrees, resting on plates at different heights.
Side view from a quick LeoCAD mock-up:

Since clipping the tile to plates at different heights might stress the tile, I suggest to place it resting on top of tiles at different heights.

Edit: After several iterations, I think the ramp should be better made out of 2x4 tiles, resting on top of tiles at the railtrack side, and free-standing at the roadplate side, like so:

That's trivially built with 1x4 tiles, 4x8 plates and 1x8 plates.
There are variations of this kind of ramp, depending on the parts available. For example, the following uses 15068 2x2 Slope, curved instead of tiles. I'm assuming the slope would help the ramp to slide in place a bit better, plus the 2x2 plates help the ramp to not slide alongside the track:

Note, in the image above, how the tiniest bit of yellow plate is visible to the right of the blue slope - that means the assembly is so slightly over 8 studs long (when tilted), which makes it pretty much impossible to use hinges for the ramp.

A similar anti-slide arrangement can be made roadside. I suggest using 32028 1x2 plate with door rail, on both sides of a 1x10 plate, with tiles on top, like so:

I guess that could be easily replaced with "1x1 plate with teeth".

Is it possible to fit any hinges underneath? So that it would have at least some connection points.

I was considering using 4276 1x2 plate with hinge, but then there'd be a slightly-smaller-than-one-stud gap that I don't know how could be filled.

Since the lips of slope bricks rest half a plate below the two-plate-thick roadplates, a solution might be.... to elevate the whole track by half a plate. This can be done with baseplates:

Of course, this assumes that your train tracks will be elevated by one baseplate all around. But that's OK because we've learned from sets 4539-1 and 10128-1 that it's meant to be done that way, right? Right?
And there's the problem of aligning/attaching the baseplate to the roadplate.
Luckily, we can use the SNOT techniques described at https://forum.brickset.com/discussion/26463/plate-versus-baseplate-height-how-to-align-them , and disguise the connector as the support for a barrier:

There's now an "official" answer to this question thanks to the summer 2022 Train Station (60335):

This set includes a level crossing that is built as follows:

This doesn't make use of any novel elements, and the part used to create the ramp up to the tracks is 88930 Slope Brick Curved 2 x 4 x 2/3:

While this is a somewhat different approach than the larger ramps used in my question, the same basic issue is still present with a half-plate high bump in road:

Overall, I think the look works alright. The choice to transition to light gray at the crossing to make it clear that there are different materials in play helps to remove the expectation that there would be a clean and flush interface at that point.

I would try and use part 15068 Slope Curved 2x2 to go from road to track. Have you tried this?

Edit: upon closer inspection, I think this gives the same result as your ramps, just with a shorter slope, so this might not be a useful suggestion.

This is a useful suggestion, but you are correct that it has the same basic issue as the longer ramps.


text:
Got a weird trans-purple cone part as extra in 71043-1 Hogwarts Castle
I bought a 71043-1 and one of the extra parts is this trans-purple "cone" with the smaller through-hole, which couldn't identify since there is no element number, only the mould number which is 05-B01.
Here's a picture, (normal stud as a comparison) - please help me identify or give an element number for this!

It looks like a "short shot" of Minifigure, Utensil Bottle, Erlenmeyer Flask with Trans-Purple Fluid Pattern (pictured below) which is included in the set. I would even say it lacks the Trans-clear "coating" around Trans-Purple piece of the combined element.

Short shot - is a term used in LEGO community to describe an uncommon occurrence of plastic element production, where element is produced with insufficient amount of plastic. There could be various reasons: temperature is too low, lack of plastic supply and other errors during production.

Yeah, I was supposed to say the same. This is must be the origin of the part and how it ended in the same bag as the flask. Somekind of premold and inner piece for the flask since both even have the center hole in them, that would also explain why it has a mould number but no element number. Pretty cool since this must be crazy rare because in all of my 20 years of legos have I ever seen such occur on my sets!

I wonder if that's the entire inner purple part prior to the clear plastic jacket being molded around it.

I wonder how much money an error piece like that would be worth?

Same here, market for these kind of occurrences are probably very slim so the pricing most likely is what the seller asks for so in other words priceless, only this time quite literally :)


text:
EV3 force sensor - how to download the block to EV3?
I'm a twelfth grade student and I'm studying mechatronics and this is the first time someone from my school has used a force sensor so my teachers do not know how to help me. Can you please tell me: how can I download the force sensor block to EV3?

There is no force sensor in either the commercial or education version of the EV3 set, just the touch sensor for which there are standard blocks.
So I'm going to assume this is a sensor from an an external party. You need a file with extension .ev3b that can be imported in the mindstorms lab by clicking 'Tools' in the menu and then 'import block' which will open a dialog where you can browse for the file, and import the blocks in it.

Now to obtain that .ev3b file, you need to know from which vendor it was bought. Likely the file can be downloaded from their website. We could help you further if you could specify either the vendor or post a picture of the sensor.

+1, but I'm kind of assuming this "sensor" is made with the existing parts or electronics from the original set (ie the large motor, but it can't accurately detect "force"). Based on the context of the question, I doubt the user can get his hands on a custom 3rd-party snesor, especially since it's apparently a school project. or maybe im wrong

I think it actually more likely for a school teacher to buy a force sensor than a hobbyist. Can be used to teach various scientific principles in a STEM course...


text:
Why isn't the LEGO logo on studs in more official computer animated shows, movies, and games?
In the LEGO Simpsons episode Brick Like Me   there are many shots where the tops of studs are clearly visible but lack the logo- the smooth tops make them look like a cheap knock-off brand.  A standard normal mapping technique could render the logos without much additional computing time there and in lower budget animated shows like Ninjago or the Star Wars specials, and possibly even the computer games, but I wonder if there are other reasons the logo isn't there  — advertising restrictions?  (If that's the case an illegible logo would look better than smooth.)

That picture from Simpson series looks like a knock-off brand episode, to be honest. LEGO has produced Simpsons sets and CMF series, but minifigures had unique moulds for their heads (unlike adopted/modified standard minifigure heads pictured here)

I added a link to the production notes to the original post, but this quote says it is official:
"The idea of the episode was conceived several years ago, where the toy company approached Fox about producing a Lego set of  the Simpsons' home...  While that merchandise was still in the works, Wilfert pitched the idea of a Lego couch gag: "We went to the guys at The Simpsons and said, 'Wouldn't it be fun if you did your opening couch sequence Lego-style?' They quickly came back to us and said, 'Forget the couch; let's do an entire episode!'""

It's likely that it is advertising related - many countries have fairly strict laws on product placement (especially to children) and advertising - for example here in the UK we have rules such as "Advertisements for merchandise based on a children's programme must not be broadcast in the two hours before or after episodes or editions of that programme." So by not having LEGO logos on the bricks, and correcting/using "Other building block toys" they are probably trying to allow broadcasters to show ads for LEGO, Megablocks, etc. within those time constraints.

It wouldn't surprise me if they left off the logos to optimize performance of the 3D renders, but it could also be an artistic decision because they felt the logos would be too distracting.

I can not give a clear answer for licencing, as that is a very broad topic covering various mediums and possibly covers legislation across nations and regions. There are a few practical design cases I can think of though.
Early media
For interactive media, games historically have had limitations on processing and graphical power. Early games, such as LEGO Island released in 1997 had extremely limited graphics (by modern standards) yet were still very effective at representing LEGO bricks and characters fully.

Rather than attempting to recreate LEGO pieces as realistically as possible, they aimed to make the characters and environment full of life, immersive and fun. Very important for a product aimed at children.
Many designers completely ignore the realistic limitations of the hard plastic joints and pivots of a real minifigure and went for a more expressive style. Arms and legs unnaturally contort to give more expression and dynamics to the characters.

I believe the idea of LEGO bricks and what they represent to the imagination were considered more important to the physical aspects. Aside from technical limitations, the need to represent the bricks as accurately as possible just was not necessary and could even detract from the style.
It is even possible that rendering every individual stud on a brick could have produced a sickening Moiré effect as objects were moved around and their scale changed. This issue would be particularly worse at lower rendering resolutions.
Hyperrealism
The LEGO Movie released in 2014 was perhaps the first time LEGO fully embraced realistic animation. Although being fully animated digitally, they embraced the visual aesthetic of fans making stop-motion LEGO animations (also known as Brickfilms).
The painstaking details, involved placing minifigures under microscopes to capture the seam lines, dirt and grime into the digital textures. The character Benny the spaceman for example, includes the broken helmet chin strap, a common defect of the space sets.

It seemed from the design brief, it was important to provide realism to capture the physical nature of bricks for the sake of nostalgia, in combination with having certain creative freedoms to still make the parts feel alive and animated.

Summary
I could quite easily cover many more examples but I think it would generally be the case that many production companies contracted to design these media by The LEGO Group would have their own production standards, guidelines and interpretations of the artistic and technical style.

why is the link for the moire effect broken?

@mindstormsboi Thank you for letting me know, I am not sure but the URL should be fixed now. Regarding the edit, although both spellings are valid, I like to use British English in my writing so I have kept licencing as it is.


text:
Please identify these two Star Wars ships
I need help identifying these completed ships. I need names or set numbers to match my minifigures.

The top one is 8087: TIE Defender

The bottom one is 8099: Midi-scale Imperial Star Destroyer

Sets are TIE Defender (8087)

And Midi-Scale Imperial Star Destroyer (8099)


text:
Identify these non-LEGO vintage building logs
I found these little brick logs. Mum said they were sticklebricks but they're definitely not! Does anyone know what they are?

These look like

I found a few ebay listings for this item, they seem to be from the 60's, but no luck on finding further information.


text:
Does any one know a model or set number for my son's broken piece?
It's Mega Blocks, a small blue piece Spiderman retractable web where you push a button on the little block and the string recoils back inside the block. All I can get is it's Spiderman retractable web something, but Mega Blocks can't help without a model number or set number.

Could you post a photo? Someone might recognize it right away from that.

Here is a mega construx spider man that shoots “webs”, but from the tiny pictures it looks more like a ball than a web: https://www.megabrands.com/en-us/shop/amazing-spider-man/spider-man-techbot

Without seeing a picture it is difficult to determine exactly what you have, but after a bit of research I think you have MEGA BLOKS set #1916: Spider-Man Super Tech Hero from 2004.


text:
Are there any cases of Illegal Building in an official lego build?
I am defining illegal as it is in this answer, specifically the following

Studs-on-side bricks cannot have their side stud in the hole of a
technic brick
Bricks mounted SNOT style onto Ehrling/Headlight bricks cannot sit
directly above a normal stud (the minimal height of the LEGO
embossing makes that combination illegal)
Technic pins have to be fully inserted into technic holes, otherwise they stay in compressed state which causes stress on the element.
Plates cannot be inserted with their studs into technic bricks, unless it is a 1x1 plate (so only 1 hole is used) and there is no brick attached to the technic brick directly above the inserted plate.
As mentioned by you already, you cannot insert plates between studs (this used to be a valid technique 20+ years ago, but is no longer considered "legal" by LEGO).

I am also including one other situation:

A round piece between four studs as stated in a comment by Sandra.

When, if ever, have any of these methods been used in an official Lego Build?

Have you checked presentation made by LEGO designer Jamie Berard posted in the same answer you are referring to? It has examples.

Yeah, that file even shows a few (old) times when lego used an illegal technique. Although after each time they admitted that it's illegal.

Does this answer your question? What are some "Illegal" LEGO combinations?

@Alex I literally have an answer to that question linked.

Then why didn't you read it? plus the file specifically

If the question were about the different types of illegal techniques, it would indeed be a duplicate. But it asks about usages of such techniques in official sets, which is completely different in my eyes, so I vote leave open.

See also When did LEGO decide that it was OK to put a stud into a technic hole - which calls out some specific clarifications from Jamie's presentation, about the techniques being acceptable if they are appropriate to the intended audience.

As mentioned by you already, you cannot insert plates between studs (this used to be a valid technique 20+ years ago, but is no longer considered "legal" by LEGO)

This technique is used in 21309 Saturn V, to mount the flag piece as part of the moon diorama.
Given this set was released in 2017, I’d say its definitely a modern usage.

It's a tile and not a plate... tiles wedged between studs aren't considered illegal, however studded plates are problematic as the lego logo embossed on the studs of the bottom plates protrude against the studs of the wedged plate...

The 1x1 round piece between 4 studs is used in the part of the Y-wing extra in set 4489. The extra build came across the 4 sets 4488-4491.

Remember getting this as a child and not being able to finish the Y-wing because I couldn't place this piece, definitely feels illegal.

What you describe here is not related to placing a piece in any sort of ways that would result in damaging any of the pieces in contact or being unable to disassemble, which is usually meant by "illegal" building technique.

I found this question unanswered when trying to know whether it’s illegal. And OP specifically asks for an example of exactly this, which I provided. Do you know of any other sets where this technique is used?

My bad. I read your answer incorrectly first time - I assumed you mention an extra piece used to build additional model, which is not part of the base models, but is present as "extra". So I took a liberty on updating your answer to reflect this issue.