text:
How can I motorize the Hogwarts Express (76423)
I'd like to motorize this train set:

What is the best way to accomplish this?

There are number of ways to accomplish this. The locomotive traditionally provides the power for a train, so that is a natural place to start. Unfortunately, this locomotive is difficult to motorize directly for a few reasons.
Powered Locomotive Challenges
The wheel type and spacing makes it difficult to directly use the very simple City train motor:

This is typically used with the smaller train wheels, and the spacing doesn't align properly with the larger wheels used in this locomotive:

These wheels can be motorized using Technic gears and axles along with a small motor, but I couldn't find an easy way to hide that setup inside this locomotive.
We'd also still need to find a place to house the battery box.
Powered Coaches
Another option could be to motorize one of the coaches. This would be awkward on this set, as they are relatively small and use only a single wheel at each end. The train motor works best when driving a pair.
There would also still be the challenge of stowing the battery box which would necessarily cut into the interior space in the coaches. I didn't want to mess with the interior of the coaches as they provide interest and play value for the set:

Powered Tender
The approach that worked for me was to modify the tender to house both the battery box and the train motor. Here's the tender from the set:

In order to add a motor and hide the battery box, the tender needed to get about 3 plates taller, so this does change the look of the set a bit. I don't think it changes things too much, especially since it allows the locomotive and coaches to remain unchanged.
Here's the basic process of building the tender:

The parts list and more detailed instructions can be found on Rebrickable.
I don't apply stickers generally, but I assume that this would look a bit more authentic with the stickers applied. I did leave the open hub port facing the coaches, so light could be added to these fairly easily if desired. Overall, I found this solution to be fairly simple, and it works quite well:

Love the solution and how you ask a relevant question and answer it yourself! +1

Excellent answer, this is pretty much how I did it when my son wanted it motorised. I found that with the tender motorised, the engines wheels had trouble spinning, and there were some drive issues on curved pieces of track. At lower speeds it was fine, higher speeds were where I experienced problems.

@e_i_pi If I understand your problem correctly, you can try to put a (small) rubber band on the wheels which should give better traction.

@jncraton - You could also increase the weight of the locomotive by replacing some of the internal bricks with these metal bricks; https://bricks.stackexchange.com/questions/18070/how-heavy-is-the-lego-gold-brick


text:
What is the name and ID of this part and what is it used for?
Attached is a picture of the clone part, what is its name and ID, and what is it used for?
I tried looking for it on rebrickable.com or bricklink.com but couldn't find it anywhere.
The part is orange, I saw it in this clone set.

The linked set is a Lego clone brand, however all the parts (including the subject of this question) do indeed exist as Lego parts too.

The image you received is a clone part
but this is part # 96874
Brick and Axle Separator
it is used to separate bricks and other parts
this video could be helpful

source: Stack Exchange

license: Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/

sort: votes


text:
EV3 gyroscope drifts when brick is still - what can be done?
The gyroscope value continuously increases/decreases, even when the brick is not rotating! What could be done in order to avoid, mitigate or at least reduce the impact of this behaviour?

*I know that this has been answered a few other times, but it's such a common problem I thought it best to have a dedicated question/answer for it.

This is a pretty common issue called "gyro drift". If the gyroscope is rotating when plugged in and/or when the brick starts up, that constant rotation will be seen as "resting", and when the gyroscope is still, it believes it is rotating.
There are two main fixes to this

Hardware fix
In this, you simply unplug the gyroscope, then plug it back in while holding the robot very still. Any rotation can drift the gyroscope, however, it is pretty simple for most robots.
Alternatively, completely restart the robot while keeping it still. Most of the time this is easier to do, though it takes quite a while.

Software fix
In the software, you can account for the gyroscope drift. Instead of measuring the gyroscope directly, create a variable called gyro. At the start of the program, measure the gyroscope speed multiple times (about 10 should be good for most applications), waiting a small amount of time (try 0.05 seconds) between each, and take the average of the measurements. Then, every second, change the gyro variable by the gyro speed MINUS the averaged gyroscope drift. My preferred method for doing this is to broadcast a message, and have a forever loop in the broadcast receiver, updating gyro and waiting one second in the loop. This keeps your main forever loop free to run quickly.

all_licenses: Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/


text:
Alternative to LEGO Education for Technic parts?
I am trying to work through the LEGO Education platform, however am stuck at where to buy a big set of gears and similar from.
There are sets of 50pcs for $40+, which is clearly a ripoff. Or 500 pieces for $100+. Clearly I'm not willing to go broke for some plastic pieces, hence the question.
How did you obtain a good amount of... pretty much all the basic parts?

I'm not sure what your use-case is here, but LEGO Education is probably the most expensive way to simply buy parts. When you purchase from LEGO Education, you are also paying for access to a bundled classroom curriculum in addition to the parts you are buying. In essence, these shouldn't be valued in $/part, but something more like $/hour of learning experience.
If you are looking to design your own learning experiences, or you just want a pile of bricks for students to engage with, LEGO Education is likely not the best value. In this case I'd recommend buying regular sets that roughly match the part profile you are hoping for. If you are comfortable buying used parts, then I'd recommend sites like Bricklink, BrickOwl, or eBay.
This related question may also be of interest:
What's the most cost effective way to buy bulk LEGO bricks?

Thank you for your answer

Actually, even LEGO PAB (Pick A Brick) can be a good choice- https://www.lego.com/en-us/pick-and-build/pick-a-brick?query=gear&system=TECHNIC&page=2
The link is a simple search I did for Technic gears.

Thanks to you too.


text:
I have bought a mixed lego bundle and there is one set I cannot identify. The seller has sent this picture, any ideas what the second build is?
This is a clone wars item I believe (so does the seller) but neither of us have a clue as to what, and its now in bits. Doulbe cannon at front (pivot sideways) 2 engines, not an AT. Side fins beside blasters are marked as 501st.

Searching Bricklink for pieces that have "501" on them results in a delightfully short list, of which two possible items emerge:

75002 AT-RT

and 75280 501st Legion Clone Troopers

The second one can clearly be seen in the first and third assemblies, and the palette of the pieces in the second assembly is strikingly similar to this one, so I'm quite sure it's a MOC of that one.

After looking at it for he last week, and having got the original 75280 set with this collection, I've come to the same conclusion, although now I start to build it, theres a lot missing from both builds.

@PaulThomas I'm glad the answer could help you in the end. If you're satisfied and don't expect more replies, please consider accepting the answer by clicking the checkmark so that others can see from the main page that this question has been adequately answered.


text:
D11 Test mid build
On step 198 of D11 Technic set the instruction asks you to test the gears. When I test it, the gear switches but never runs the test to spin the right gear. It does that on each gear it tests.

I tried to check if the gears work by advancing to calibration, although the set is not finished. It correctly picks the gears to calibrate the "shovel". I am lost. It looks like an app issue.

I have the same problem with my D11, have you figured it out? Itchy head now


text:
Please help me identify unknown bag of lego
I got a bag of LEGO bricks at our local share shed with the number 4 on it. A QR-code on the bag encodes the number 6172089. The bag says 2017.
Pieces are all khaki tones, tan, beige, sage green, brown. There is a large circular time piece and what looks like gear pieces.

Are you sure you don't want to upload a picture? Are you sure you don't want to use the search?

Hi Katy and welcome to Bricks.SE! As you can see, we already feature a guide on identifying sets based on sealed bags. Please give that process a try and let us know if you have any issues while doing so. We'd love to hear your feedback and could help both you and anybody else with the same problem later on.


text:
What is the dimensions of lego spike motor?
Any Ideas on what is the dimensions of this motor,
and the holes and space between them?

Do read https://bricks.stackexchange.com/q/288/13403 - all lengths can be derived from those. e.g. the diameter of a stud (or a technic hole) is 4.8mm, and the distance between studs is (or between technic holes) is 8mm.

SPIKE M:  2.38 x 3.7 x 7.88 cm
SPIKE L: 8 x 4 x 4 cm

Thanks,what are the diameter of the holes and space between them?

@AbdElhaleem, well dimensions are there, so it is easy to do the math if you have any LEGO bricks on hand. Diameter - one stud. Distance - 2 bricks (center to center), 3 bricks (edge to edge).

ok, i used BL studio for later for correct dimetions

What does Spike L motor has to do with regards to OP's question? The M motor is clearly higher than 3 studs - rotating part is not part of motor's dimensions?

the rotating part is one stud height.

The rotating piece is still part of a motor and its dimensions, right?

yep. i do a quick update to this answer :)

Well, I don't have any parts in hands, so I need to know the dimensions in mm, sorry for asking a lot

OK, 8 mm is 1 stud.

Did you measure your own motors to get these values? Or did you find them somewhere?

I used BrickLink.com

There is a place for improvement. Why are there two motos listed? Which one of them is on OP's picture? Why dimensions for each motor are provided in different units?


text:
Who is this Daft Punk looking character?
I found this minifig on the ground in front of my house the other day.
Who is that and what set is it from?
A description of their features:

Big, unruly black hair
Golden “cyber goggles” that look like an amp level display
Golden jacket that’s open and displays a silver body with abs
USB cable and golden music note pendant around neck
Silver hands
Black legs
Silver circuit designs on jacket and legs
Crown-and-music-note logo on the back of jacket
Backside of the head: goggles feature a connector

This is from 43107: HipHop Robot BeatBox

For context: which has only ever been on sale in 2021, which was a Covid year.

@Cœur why is that relevant?

@user253751 It tells you that this set is not currently available anymore and might be quite rare.


text:
What is this transparent round "plate" brick with wiring inside?
I bought a crate of Lego's from a flea market, and it has this strange block inside it. It's a transparent blue color, round, and somewhat thick. It seems to be a single piece, I can't find anywhere to separate it. It has wiring inside of an unknown purpose, and I can't see anywhere to connect to the wiring, so I am assuming it's some kind of wireless thing, but I can't imagine to what end. There are at least 3 of them that I have found so far, and they all have different numbers on them - 40R5, 30R5, 16R5, and some smaller numbers that I couldn't quite make out. There is a shallow circle hole on the bottom, but it's just barely too small for a normal brick "dot" to fit into.
I'm curious what these are for, and what set they might have come with.

that's an RFID tag

After posting, I was finally able to manipulate the image enough to get the right part number (or part of a part number) and found out that it is 18602c01. It's a generic gadget base. This base is part of a LEGO Dimensions video game which had different characters, and you could put the unique base into a Lego Dimensions Toy Pad that would detect which character it was (hence the wireless stuff inside). You could then play as that character in the video game.
I'm assuming the other larger lettering (30R5, etc) are designations indicating the character the base belongs to.
As pointed out by Alex in the comments, the 30R5 etc. codes are manufacture dates.

30R5 - is a production week. In this case it is 30th week of 2015.

IIRC the wiring is a standard NFC tag, though it's been years since I've played with them so I might be remembering incorrectly.

That makes a lot of sense, @Alex, thanks. I wonder how you are supposed to know which base goes to which gadget, once they are apart?

I remember scanning couple of these generic tags I got from Bricklink with smart phone only to find they are all the same. I haven't played the game, but it makes me thing generic tags/bases are somehow tied with character tag/base.

@NathanStohlmann Probably just RFID, which is admittedly kind of sort of a subset of NFC, but is a tad cheaper to implement.

@AustinHemmelgarn they use NFC. I just checked one tag/base with my phone. And it also says the tag is "writable" so, I guess, it can be reused for something else. I don't have any of character specific ones to check though.


text:
Can anyone identify this 4 x 4 round LEGO modified part?
This is a 4 x 4 round piece with a 1 x 2 studs on top. Anyone know the part #?

This is part 30209 - Bracket 1 x 2 - 4 x 4 Round Dish.


text:
Can anyone identify this set for me? It's a mech with white, grey and gold elements
What LEGO set is this? I am trying to find its manual/instruction.

This is from Titan Mech Battle (70737). Identified by unique tile with sticker. Instructions can be downloaded directly from LEGO Service.


text:
Height of floral sets
I'm planning my decor. To that end, I need to the approximate height of a few sets:

10311 Orchid
10289 Bird of Paradise
10313 Wildflower Bouquet
10280 Flower Bouquet

It is delightful to hear folks planning their decor around excellent LEGO sets.  :)

From the pages you linked, under "specifications":
10311 Orchid

Dimensions – This buildable model measures over 15 in. (39 cm) high, 11.5 in. (30 cm) wide and 9.5 in. (24 cm) deep

10289 Bird of Paradise

As a guide, the tallest leaf limb measures over 18 in. (46 cm) high and the flowerpot measures over 5 in. (13 cm) in diameter.

10313 Wildflower Bouquet

Dimensions – The stems come in a variety of lengths. As a guide, the ‘larkspur’, with its straight stem, measures over 18 in. (47 cm) tall

10280 Flower Bouquet

The stems come in a variety of lengths. As a guide, the ‘snapdragon’, with its straight stem, measures over 14 in. (36 cm) high.

Don't forget that putting the bouquets in a vase adds a little bit of height, while at the same time lowering the height a little because the flowers spread out.
Generally it's probably easiest to assume ~50cm for each set when planning.

omg! It's so far down the page that I missed it. How embarrassing. Thanks.


text:
LEGO Studios Movie Maker Camera (1349) (2000)
A few months back I had purchased the LEGO Studios Movie Maker Set (1349) and have been tampering with it, specifically the camera, to see if I can get it to work on my Windows 11 laptop. Was able to download the software off of Internet Archive, yet whenever I plug the camera in it does not respond. My laptop recognizes when the USB is plugged in, yet the movie maker software does not. From what I have noticed it could be the drivers, as whenever I try to update them using Device Manager it seems to not work, assuming it is because how old the camera is. The software itself works perfectly fine; it is just the camera that cannot be recognized on the software. If anyone knows how to solve this issue or has any tips, please let me know!

Do the answers in LEGO STUDIOS Moviemaker Set help you out ? It sounds like it's not trivial trying to get the drivers to work on a modern Windows version. Maybe a virtual machine with either Windows XP or 98 will get you further ?

Hi, the manual included with the set does not really help me with anything. The drivers within the camera seem to be missing whenever I look up the connection within Devic Manager. Have thought about downloading a version of Win XP or 98 on my Win 11 laptop to see if I could get the camera working from there, but I am not 100% sure where to look.


text:
What set is this?
I picked these up at a local thrift store, all in their original packaging. Hoping it’s a complete set.
Number on it says: 135149
No real unique bricks to report and there are no bag numbers on it.

These look like bags from Bricks and Animals (11011-1):

If those are the only bags you have, it isn't complete, but you may still be able to build some of the models. The bags are sorted by color, and some of the models appear to use the colors that you have.

The instructions are available via Rebrickable.

This is amazing, thank you so much! I just confirmed a few of the more unique pieces, and they are all in that set. My son is going to be super excited.


text:
How to fix torn EV3 LCD Cable
I accidentally tore my lego EV3's LCD ribbon cable while opening it.
I found this post of someone a while back having the same issue, however as my tear is smaller I was wondering if it was possible to fix it:

Nothing has been taken away from the cable, and the torn part still fits in with the rest.

Repairing a flat ribbon is tricky. And since it's not lego-specific, I suggest asking at electronics.stackexchange.com .

@IvanSanchez i made a post and people were very helpful, and now I have a few paths to attempt. How could I close this question?
Funny that the original answered (you) to the question i referenced also answered this!


text:
Looking for instructions to a set with many different sized round cogwheels
This bag came in a large box but the bags didn’t have identifiers ie: 1,2,3 and we lost the instructions. Two small bags came inside the larger bag.

This is set 11019-1 Bricks and Functions

Key parts:
14t plate gear (35446) in Lime
Turntable Base (61485) in White
and a 1x4 gear rack (3743 or 4296) in White


text:
Found bags of LEGO bricks at a thrift store. What sets they belong to?
I am wondering if anyone can try and help me identify these bags. I picked them up a thrift store and all my googling has come up empty handed
This is the first bag

Second one

Third one

Then there was this small one with no identifications on it

And finally these loose pieces

Those all look like parts from set 31109 Pirate Ship released in 2020 :

Note this assumes the colors aren't accurately represented in your pictures. Eg. the 10 loose pieces appear to be reddish brown from your picture, but would be medium nougat in the set. Additionally, dark azure parts look like regular blue, yellow like pearl gold, pearl gold like brown, dark bluish gray like black, etc. in your pictures. Ie. all colors appear darker in your pictures than they'd be in real life.


text:
trying to identify a lego set with no box or insturctions there is 9 numbered bags of parts and one sticker sheet with the number 77004 on it?
there is 7 numbered bags of parts 3-9 and 4 unnumbered bags and one sticker sheet with the number 77004 on it ?
one bag has the number 1*77004.6.1.4
i have searched and can not find any set with that number
the sticker sheet looks like one that comes with the millennium falcon but not sure which version
any help please

Please add pictures. Quick search on LEGO fan pages didn't render any meaningful results, so it could be non-LEGO set.


text:
How do you open this thing without damaging it?
It's a 9008 DUPLO Activity Set from 1986. Looks like this on all the boxes.

Hi Beate and welcome to Bricks.SE! Have you tried pushing in the three tabs on the underside of the brick with a suitably sized flat-head screwdriver while prying the cover with a flat tool? Since the three tabs seem to hold the back plate simultaneously, you might need to depress all three at once, so borrow a pair of hands if possible.

I haven't! Was afraid it might damage it. Thought there might be some special tools of some sort. But I think I'll try on one of them, and get back to you with the results!

It's definitely not designed to be opened once assembled, but nonetheless it might be doable. Take it slow and be careful, but also keep in mind that ABS can easily be glued even if it breaks. And if you can manage it, please take photos of the process - so that you can contribute the answer for the benefit of future readers :)

We tried but wasn't able to pry it open :(


text:
What set are these blue, purple, and green pieces from?

I found a bag of LEGO bricks and I want to know from what set this is.
I tried searching on brickset.com. But they can't find the set.
It contains:

Plate round 6x6 medium azure 11213
Plate 6 x 12 green 4541414
brick 2x4 purple (2 pieces)
flower 4143562 (2 pieces)

I hope you can help me.

thank you I will try then website now!

Hi Coolen and welcome to Bricks.SE! Let us know if you have any issues with the site, we're here to help if you get stuck.

this refers to set "10692-1" on my BL results.


text:
Is there a good keyboard reference for bricklink Studio?
I'm looking for a good keyboard reference card for Bricklink Studio.  I found this help article on the official site but it doesn't print out very nicely.  I'd like something more like a reference card from the old days.  If it was Mac-focused that'd be great too, but most of the keystrokes aren't that different between the platforms anyway.  Have you seen anything like what I'm describing?


text:
Identification of Lego bags with large tan plates, white cylindrical panels, palm leaves and yellow ladders
Can someone help me to identify which set is this from?

Based on Lime plant leaves 6x5 Swordleaf, Tan plate 8x8, Tan plate round half 3x6 with 1x2 cutout, and Trans-light blue panel 3x4x6 Curved top, this set has to be 41374-1 Andrea's Pool Party.

Thank you so much! I think that's the one!


text:
Help identifying set just with a bag of common bricks
I have a picture of this bag with LEGO bricks in it. Any idea what set this is?

Does this answer your question? How can I identify LEGO sets from a box or bag of parts?

Or this? How can I identify a set based on one or more original sealed bags?

❤trying to solve this for my patient. Definitely not a Lego aficionado

Do you have a larger picture? There seems to be a lot of common parts, so it isn't easy to identify anything reasonable at this scale.

Based on the 6 x 12 tan plate and some of the other more basic elements, this appears to be a bag from Bricks and Houses (11008):

If this is the only bag you have, it isn't a complete set and you likely can't build any of the models from the instructions. This set is an assortment of basic elements, so you could still get some good free building value out of the parts you have.


text:
Lego 42082 Rough Terrain Crane superstructure does not rotate easily when master selector is set to neutral
My son has been building the Lego 42082 crane and is on bag 9.  I don't believe the central section is functioning properly as I believe the rings should turn much more easily by hand than ours does.
We just watched a video of someone operating this crane and they noted that when the super-structure selector or the master selector are set to neutral the superstructure (main section that sits on the crane base) can be easily rotated by hand.  I have now seen this in other videos: even when the crane is partially built the main circular rings can spin easily.
Right from the time my son completed bag #2 we noticed the center solid black ring could not spin easily by hand.  However if we were to spin the white gear on the bottom of the crane (I only see one white one), it would make the other gears nearby turn and would cause the black circular section on top to slowly spin.  So we figured it was operating properly and that the motor would cause this all to turn. We now see videos showing the black rings should be much easier to turn by hand than ours does.  When I turn it to the left it turns with light force.  If I turn it to the right it requires more force to turn.  But in both cases it is clearly not spinning easily enough.
We are on about bag 9 so I am not sure if the only issue is that it does not turn easily when in neutral, or if this means that this section will not turn at all with the motor.  I am hoping to figure out how serious this issue is before going any further (is it likely to still function with the motor) and if anyone has a suggestion how to fix it so it can turn easily by hand.

I have not built this set myself, however I went through instructions to understand your issue. Based on your description it seems to me that gear train used to rotate the top section is currently stopped/blocked and by applying force you are overcoming white gear's resistance, which is a clutch gear and is a safety feature.
There should be a lever (#3 below) on the other size of the model. Per my understanding it should be in neutral/central/top position to allow top section rotate freely. Any other position would engage gear train with motor and would not spin freely until you overcome resistance of clutch gear.

Thanks for the feedback Alex.  We did have the lever #3 in the correct position and it was still not operating freely.  My son completed the entire build now though and everything works well and even this issue seems to have largely resolved itself.  Thanks again!


text:
Ninjago set identification
I’m trying to identify a set to search for instructions. However all I know it is a Ninjago but cannot find the set on Google. It looks like a helicopter with out the blades on top. I am hoping someone might know what this is.

The pieces you have are from Ronin R.E.X. (70735) set.

Instructions can be downloaded from LEGO Customer Service webpage.

Thank you Alex!!!


text:
Problem with emulating EV3 brick via wifi
I'm trying to emulate Lego EV3 brick connection via wifi. First I found the repo and rewrote it a bit in C# so now I have this:
LabVIEW.cs
public class LabVIEW
{
    public string Serial { get; set; }
    public UInt16 Port { get; set; }
    public string? Name { get; set; }
    public string Protocol { get; set; }

    public LabVIEW()
    {
        Serial = "001612345678";
        Port = 5555;
        Name = "EV3-rcv";
        Protocol = "EV3";
    }

    public void SpawnConnectThread()
    {
        var udpSocket = new Socket(AddressFamily.InterNetwork, SocketType.Dgram, ProtocolType.Udp);
        var localIP = new IPEndPoint(IPAddress.Parse("0.0.0.0"), 0);
        udpSocket.Bind(localIP);
        udpSocket.ReceiveTimeout = 10000;
        udpSocket.EnableBroadcast = true;

        var task = Task.Run(() =>
        {
            var sendStr = string.Format(
                "Serial-Number: {0}\r\nPort: {1}\r\nName: {2}\r\nProtocol: {3}\r\n",
                Serial, Port, Name, Protocol
            );
            var remoteIP = new IPEndPoint(IPAddress.Parse("127.255.255.255"), 3015);
            Console.WriteLine(sendStr);
            while (true)
            {
                byte[] toSend = Encoding.UTF8.GetBytes(sendStr);
                int sentAmount = udpSocket.SendTo(toSend, remoteIP);
                if (sentAmount == toSend.Length)
                {
                    byte[] recvBuff = new byte[64];
                    udpSocket.Receive(recvBuff, 0, 64, SocketFlags.None, out SocketError err);
                    if (err != SocketError.Success)
                    {
                        continue;
                    }

                    Console.WriteLine(Encoding.UTF8.GetString(recvBuff));
                }
                Task.Delay(5000);
            }
        });
    }

    public Socket Connect()
    {
        IPAddress localAddr = IPAddress.Parse("127.0.0.1");
        TcpListener server = new TcpListener(localAddr, Port);
        server.Start();
        var sct = server.AcceptSocket();
        byte[] recvBuff = new byte[64];
        sct.Receive(recvBuff);
        Console.WriteLine(Encoding.UTF8.GetString(recvBuff));
        byte[] toSend = Encoding.UTF8.GetBytes("Accept:EV340\r\n\r\n");
        sct.Send(toSend);
        return sct;
    }
}

And the Main part:
public class Program
{
    public static void Main(string[] args)
    {
        var lv = new LabVIEW();
        lv.SpawnConnectThread();
        var conn = lv.Connect();

        while (true)
        {
            if (conn.Available > 0)
            {
                byte[] buff = conn.ReadLVReply();
                Console.WriteLine(ByteArrayToString(buff));
                if (buff[4] == 0x80 || buff[4] == 0x81)
                {
                    // No response expected
                    continue;
                }
            }

            Thread.Sleep(300);
        }
    }

    public static string ByteArrayToString(byte[] ba)
    {
        StringBuilder hex = new StringBuilder(ba.Length * 2);
        foreach (byte b in ba)
            hex.AppendFormat("{0:x2} ", b);
        return hex.ToString();
    }
}

And some extensions for sockets:
public static class SocketExtensions
{
    public static void SendLVReply(this Socket sct, byte[] dataIn)
    {
        byte[] data = null;
        ushort length = (ushort)dataIn.Length;
        data = new byte[length + 2];
        data[0] = (byte)(length & 0x00ff);
        data[1] = (byte)((length & 0xff00) >> 2);
        Array.Copy(dataIn, 0, data, 2, dataIn.Length);
        sct.Send(data);
    }

    public static byte[] ReadLVReply(this Socket sct)
    {
        byte[] lengthBytes = new byte[2];
        byte[] data = new byte[0];
        int expectedlength = 0;

        sct.Receive(lengthBytes);
        expectedlength = (ushort) (0x0000 | lengthBytes[0] | (lengthBytes[1] << 2));
        if(expectedlength > 0){
            data = new byte[expectedlength];
            sct.Receive(data);
        }
        return data;
    }
}

So what is the problem? The brick is successfully visible in Lego Mindstorms editor (or something, I don't know what it is) but when I click to connect to it, the error appears:

I saw that I received something weird to my buffer after establishing a connection (it was weird because there is nothing in the document about the bytes). So I decided to take a real EV3 brick and check out what are they sending to each other. Using RawCap and opening the result through WireShark I saw that they are "messaging" a lot sending each other different things like the version of firmware on the brick, the name of the brick, the location of my project and so on. Here are the bytes:
after the brick sent "Accept:EV340\r\n\r\n". The PC sends to the brick this
14 00 01 00 00 18 00 8f 60 c0 0c 83 bb 69 17 65 60 d3 0d 14 64 0a
and the brick replies with this
1b 00 01 00 02 5a e5 c5 51 45 56 33 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00
and so on

As I said before - there is nothing about it in the communication document.
And I want to say one more thing. If I use the C# library to control the real EV3 brick - there is none of this strange communication after establishing.
So now the question. Is there a way to control or ignore these messages from the Lego Mindstorms editor?

There are two types of commands. "System" commands and "Direct" command. The document that you linked lists all of the system commands but only gives examples of direct commands and does not exhaustively list all of the direct commands. Direct commands are any valid bytecodes to be interpreted directly by the VM running on the EV3, so to completely emulate the EV3, you will need to recreate the full lms2012 VM.
You can find more documentation on the bytecodes used in direct commands at http://ev3.fantastic.computer/doxygen/bytecodes.html (this is documentation from the official LEGO source code that has been built and published by a fan). Beware that the documentation isn't always 100% accurate - you should always check the source code to see how things are actually implemented as well.
There is a machine-readable file of all bytecodes in YAML format at https://github.com/ev3dev/lmsasm/blob/master/bytecodes/data/ev3.yml. This is useful if you want to automatically generate code instead of manually implementing all of the bytecodes.

Thank You so much for the reply. Honestly, I wasn't expecting that this is so difficult. I found the repo and as I undestand the lms2012 folder is only required for me. By now I only want to understand the way of replying the Lego Mindstorms Editor to its strange requests. My main idea is only to reverse engineer the c# library so I would accept only direct commands (like move "the" motor with "the" speed)


text:
Can you identify these parts and assemblies?
I just spent a lovely afternoon going through a box of childhood (40+ years ago) identifying bricks, but ended with a half dozen I couldn't. Here is a picture:

I know some are newer, but some are original (3 & 6)
If you could help me find the actual part numbers I would appreciate it.

Brick, Modified 1 x 2 with Digger Bucket Arm Holder and Vehicle, Digger Bucket Arm, Small - 2 x 6 x 2
Windscreen 5 x 2 x 1 2/3
This is a broken Hook Slope 45 2 x 3 x 1 1/3 Double with Arm and Light Gray Tow Hook
Both a and b are an assembly of Brick, Modified 1 x 1 with Headlight with Plate, Modified 1 x 1 with Light Attachment - Thick Ring
Combination on Hinge Brick 1 x 2 Base and Hinge Brick 1 x 2 Top Plate
Assembly of Plate, Modified 1 x 4 with Tow Ball and Plate, Modified 1 x 4 with Tow Ball Socket, Long, 4 Slots (8mm Socket Length)


text:
Identify Duplos that were in the Red Bunny Purse
Can anyone tell me what Duplos were included in the Red Bunny Purse?  I believe that was purchased in 1984.

Plush Red Bunny / Rabbit Storage Bag (Bricklink)
Bricklink only lists 1 gear item and no other elements, so I'm inclined to think Mr. Bunny came without any Duplo elements, you had to fill him with your own Duplo bricks.

Rebrickable also lists this bunny under "Gear > Storage"

As indicated in the top photo, the bunny was a "bonus" item sold with some other set. I don't recall ever seeing it sold by itself. One such offer definitely included 2355 Basic Set - Vehicles; don't know if there were others.

Relevant link for 2355: https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?S=2355-2

Thanks so much.  I was beginning to think the same thing.

I can't stand how cute this question is!

It's been a while -- I bought that set for my infant / toddler son probably around 1985.  As I recall, it included 20 or 30 duplo blocks, no special shapes, several primary colors.  There were enough blocks to fully stuff the bunny's innards, as I recall.

Thanks for your input.  I also bought one for my son around that time.  I'm trying to sort out all the Legos that I have accumulated for my kids.


text:
Does LEGO make a electronically controlled pneumatic valve bank?
I've decided to try my hand at building a working LEGO Concrete Block Making Machine, as shown in this picture:

with the idea being that the machine will be controlled by both manual and automatic input. The machine will be controlled by a pneumatic air system using various cylinders.
The manual control is the easy bit, as it's just a bunch of levers next to each other. The problem comes in the form of the automatic system whereby the Technic controller needs to be able to control a pneumatic valve bank in order to run the machine.
My question is this, does LEGO make an electronically controlled valve bank? If so, where can I find one? If not, what would be the best way in accomplishing this?

What do you mean by "Technic controller" ? One of the many remote controls lego has released, a recent example of which is Powered Up Bluetooth Speed Remote Control Unit ? Or one of the several programmable bricks, a recent example of which is Powered Up Large Hub ? Or something else ?

Apologies. I meant the RCX Controller V1.0.

LEGO pneumatics are not really precise. You might want to consider using mechanical operation with linear actuators.

@Alex, by linear actuators, you mean things like mechanical pistons? The type that doesn't use hydraulic or pneumatic?

Yes, mechanical pistons without any sort of pneumatic or hydraulic stuff. I mean this small linear actuator, bigger one and the largest.

Thanks @Alex. Will definetly look into this.

I don't know of any electronically controlled LEGO pneumatics.
However it's not too hard to get the needed functionality. I see two main parts to the equation :
Controlling the pressure in the system
LEGO have released several pumps over the years. A recent example is Pneumatic Pump Small (6L) V2 with Reinforced Cylinder. A pump like that can relatively easily be driven by a regular motor (by transforming the motor's rotary motion into a linear back and forth motion - using a cam mechanism eg.), which in turn can be controlled by your controller of choice.
Note, you can make this as complicated as you want, with features to protect your motor from overload, to more evenly generate pressure, etc. Many examples of varying complexity can be found on the internet.
Controlling the direction of air flow
LEGO have released several switches over the years. A recent example is Pneumatic Switch with Pin Holes and Axle Hole, which has a convenient axle hole to allow it to be driven by a motor. Ideally a servo motor, but a regular motor can be made to act like a servo motor if needed.
Some example solutions (mostly using the older style switches that didn't have an axle hole) can be found in How to motorize a LEGO Pneumatic valve?.

Thanks Sander. Really appreciate the detailed answer. I have a design for pressure regulation, but the directional air flow is something I will most definitely check out. I had no idea parts like this existed. I just have one question though. These designs are calling for LEGO Power functions, can the controller/receiver be programmed for automation?

@GipsyD : no, Power Functions does not include a programmable brick. Most designs you'll find will indeed use more recent generations of motors, but it should just be a matter of adapting the designs to suit the different form factor of your older 9V motors that can be controlled by your RCX Controller. Alternatively, you can control Power Functions motors (apart from the servo motor afaik) with your RCX Controller by using the right extension wire.

That's a win all things considered. Thanks for the link. Got some planning to do.

There were a few sets with pneumatics and compressors available from the early '90's, my sister had the 8868 Air Tech Claw Rig which came with a 9V motor to keep the compressor working to provide the pressure to move the various parts around

Sadly though as you point out, the switching was at that time all manual.

The B model of that set did feature valves that were actuated by other pistons though. Still not electronically controlled (and technically not even controlled at all, as it ran automatically in a loop), but a neat and unique feature.


text:
How could I motorize the LEGO Land Rover Classic Defender (10317)?
The latest LEGO Land Rover is primarily a system set:

Can this set be motorized using Technic or other components?

The set isn't motorized out of the box, but this is possible without too much modification. There is a Technic structure inside the vehicle to facilitate the working steering wheel and suspension found in the model:

We can make use of this to connect both a drive and steering motor to this set.
Driving the Rear Wheels
The real wheels are attached to an axle assembly connected to the rest of the vehicle via a suspension system:

Here's the rear axle:

One way to drive this axle is to replace it with a motorized version that attaches to the suspension. This isn't how a real car would be driven, but it limits the amount of modification that we need to make to the rest of the vehicle. Here's a quick example I came up with:

If you're wondering what happened to that motor, I happened to use one that I've opened previously.
Steering
Because this model already features a working steering wheel, it is fairly easily to motorize.

This is made even simpler because the design uses a central gear that can drive a steering wheel on either the left or right of the vehicle for easy modification.

We can replace the engine in the front of the vehicle with an L motor in order to drive the wheels:

Unfortunately, the linkage used does not support much torque, so the L motor will break this connection if allowed to drive the steering at full power.

At reduced power on the steering motor, this all works together fairly nicely as expected:

There's certainly more optimization that could be done to clean up this build, but this shows one way to motorize this vehicle with as little rebuilding as possible.
Despite the fact that this model can be motorized, it isn't really well suited for it. Being a relatively large system build, there are many bits and pieces that can fall off of this when driving around. As just one example, the wheel arches are just held on by a few studs can can fall off easily. This set can be motorized if desired, but it may be better off as a display model.


text:
Size of packaging of Battery Box 88015
I am interested in the dimensions of the packaging of this product. I am able to find only the dimensions of the battery box itself, but not the box.

The packaging's dimensions are just slightly bigger than the battery box in it (it fits with little headroom, and room for a booklet). Specifically, 8 x 7.5 x 4.5 cm (ref. 88015-1 (Original Box Entry)).

Thank you. I have ordered this component. I will confirm the dimensions here after I receive it.

I received the component today. The exact dimensions are 43 mm x 72 mm x 77 mm.


text:
2 bags of LEGO bricks without box
Don't know what box these came from and there's no instructions.

Does this answer your question? How can I identify a set based on one or more original sealed bags?

Base on all 6 I identified myself:

1x2 SNOT brick with stud on one side (11211) in Yellow.

some 4x4 plates? (3031) in Green

2 2x4 bricks (3001) in Blue.

1x2 Technic (3700) in LBG.

3x3 plate (11212) in Tan.

Slope 33 3x2 (3298) in Reddish brown.

If you identified all 6 on Bl results:
This refers to Set 11018: Creative Ocean Fun


text:
What is this yellow bulldozer set?
In the research field of neural radiance fields, you frequently find the following yellow LEGO bulldozer, and I assume it a set. (Searching for "neural radiance fields bulldozer" will provide many more images.) Given that many of the parts are the generic 1xn parts with the holes instead of more specialized parts, I assume it is a set from at least ten years ago, if not older.
Can anyone identify what set it is?

from https://github.com/NVlabs/instant-ngp

That looks like set # 856: Bulldozer

The same set was released in the US with set# 951


text:
Software to determine sets required to get all parts from a list
Assuming I have designed a MOC and thus have a list of parts that I need for it: Is there a software that helps me determine which (quantity of which) "sets" I need to buy?
In particular, the requirements I see are as follows:

Input: A list of parts, as in, some unique way of identifying each part by name or so, along with a colour, and required number.
Input: Eligible "sets" - actually, these sets can simply be part lists of their own. It must be possible to customize the list of eligible sets, as I would like to include e.g. Bluebrixx part packs for certain standard parts instead of relying exclusively on official Lego sets. Also, I might like to list individual pieces from Bricks & Pieces as individual "sets".
Input: Pricing information on sets. It must be possible to customize this information, so the prices can be adapted to current offers and discounts.
Among all eligible sets, the quantity of each "set" selected. Based on this, we could get the ...
... output: Based on the selected "sets", I should get an overview of what parts are still missing for the target list, which ones would be left unused, and how much it would cost.

Optional bonus requirements:

Some optimization feature that finds the best (= cheapest total, with least surplus parts) list of "sets" automatically. (But I am aware this is computationally hard, if not unsolveable other than by brute force in some cases.)
Some import facility to automatically retrieve parts lists at least for official Lego sets from some up to date source.
Part equivalency lists - some parts are just slight variations of other parts with some refinements done to the molds. In practice, though, it doesn't really matter for most models whether a given tile has a groove or not, whether a given brick or panel comes with open or closed studs on top, or whether the negative studs on the underside of a given part have a certain optimized shape. Thus, if parts can be marked as "equivalent" for a given set of parts list, they should be treated as if they were the same part.

Surely, MOC builders already routinely do this on paper or otherwise manually, but is there already any tool like this available?

EDIT: Here are some UI sketches that illustrate what I am after:
Consider, for instance, these input/output tables:

In there, I have listed the required parts for my MOC (obviously, only an example here for the sake of demonstration).
Also, I have assembled a list of sets to (possibly) buy, along with current pricing information.
In the same table, I now want to be able to indicate how many copies of each set I'd like to buy.
The tool should now output the total cost.
At the same time, it determines which parts I would get beyond the ones from the Required Parts list.
Note how the resulting output changes based on modifying the count of set copies to buy:

If the selected sets to buy do not cover the entire list of required parts, the tool should notice this:

I have tried to determine whether Rebrickable could fulfil these requirements.
What I could find was that I can compare a given parts list (of a MOC) to another set.
Alternatively, I can compare such a parts list to another custom parts list.
Neither of these fulfils the requirement to compare against multiple sets (where "set" can simply mean "a package containing X > 1 times part Y"), and then see what additional parts remain.
Also, I could not find any way to supply custom price information (based on the particular discount offers that might currently be available where I can conveniently buy) to consider for such a comparison.

https://rebrickable.com/about/

Does this answer your question? Is there a software which finds alternate models for owned sets?

@MichaelVerschaeve: I did suspect Rebrickable can do this, but even after signing up, I could not yet find out how. I found the feature to create custom lists (even though it's limited to just 10 in the free account), but it seems the Compare Sets function then only compares the individual parts in those lists, not the sets/MOCs I added. Also, at least so far, I could not find a way to supply a custom price for a given set or even for a certain subset of parts within a list. Thus, I am not convinced Rebrickable is an answer to this question.

Consider using pick-a-brick and bricklink to acquire parts individually. There's rarely a need to acquire parts only from sets.

@IvanSanchez: My question already contains this among the requirements: 'I would like to include e.g. Bluebrixx part packs for certain standard parts instead of relying exclusively on official Lego sets. Also, I might like to list individual pieces from Bricks & Pieces as individual "sets".'

Unless you create a MOC from single set's elements (an alternate model) there is no easy way to list sets that could be acquired to create your model. Simply because there's usually quite a few unique, obscure, not very common parts. So, instead of buying one set and missing parts you may need to acquire 5+ easily. Also  Rebrickable's "Compare LEGO Sets/Lists" option allows you to compare with Custom lists. I just checked and there is an additional drop list.

@Alex: I have seen that I can compare with custom lists, but can I somehow subdivide these lists or compare to multiple custom lists at a time? Otherwise, I don't quite understand how I would indicate that I'd buy e.g. this set twice. I think I'm going to edit my question later on by adding an example to better illustrate my use case.

@Alex: I have added some example illustrations that hopefully help to understand what I am looking for.

I don't know of any database that contains inventories of non-LEGO sets. Any such resource would be quite useful for (partial) set identification questions regarding non-LEGO sets, so if you know of such a database, by all means please let us know.

@zovits: In this question, I'm not asking for any such database (although it sure would make for a useful import dataset for a tool like the one I'm asking for here). Maybe you can post your own question to ask for such a database; I'd be somewhat interested in that, as well.

I understand - I'm only saying a database would be a requirement for any such tool, but since even that doesn't exist (AFAIK), there's no chance for this tool.

@zovits: I don't think so. The way I've outlined the tool in my question would work well without any comprehensive database. I'd enter the parts lists for the sets manually, because I don't need the entire product range, just the handful of sets I have actually pre-selected to contain any relevant parts.

This is going to be an optimization / integer programming problem. You want to solve a system of linear equations (or inequalities, in the sense of "at least X") with integral coefficients and integer solutions.

@shoover: If there were an automated routine to find a good distribution of sets. But as listed in the question, I see that as an optional feature. Primarily, I'd already be happy with the simple addition/subtraction per part and colour required to get an overview based on sets I have picked myself.

@F-H Your example has the 1x10 plates as required parts and the set BPP4477 as suggested "set to buy". How should the tool know what parts are included in any set without a database of sets and parts?

@zovits: As a user, I know that BPP4477 is a possible source of the required parts for my set. Thus, I make this one set known to the tool (as in, within the tool, I add a "set" record and list the parts contained in that set). Same for the other two sets in the "Sets to Buy" list. It's not the tool that picks these sets from some all-encompassing database of sets, it's the user that enters or imports them (parts lists of individual sets are sometimes available e.g. as CSV files or similar).

@F-H So there should be an additional table in the example above with a list of sets as keys and the contained types and amounts of parts as entries? In that case the question is basically a variant of the multiple-knapsack problem - with a minimum sum limit instead of a maximum.


text:
Kids' building blocks

Found this on eBay, looks to be just 1×2 bricks with round ends, what size are they, is having just that size to restrict?
Just found link on Kiddle website, see there that there are also 1×1's & 1×3's both straight & about 45° corner.
O! not the same, having side indents.

The eBay listing would be helpful too.

After a few reverse image searches, I found the same kind of building blocks at https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000201944997.html with the following diagram:

i.e. a single 2x1 block is supposed to be 25mm tall, 18.5mm wide and 10mm deep.

Right, it is what they are looking for on another question 'between Lego System & Duplo'. Less than twice as long as wide. Guess not count stud height same as length.


text:
Star Wars Lego build ID help
I have an old set built that for the life of me I cannot identify. It has been collecting dust for a number of years. I was able to identify one of the others (Jek-14's Stealth Starfighter) but this one isn't even similar to everything I have seen so far.
It has been played with by my two sons (21 and 7) so may not be exactly accurate, but the bones of it have to have been made from instructions.
Trying to find the build instructions to remake it the way it was intended. Any help would be appreciated.

This is from 75025: Jedi Defender-class Cruiser

keypart: Dark Red Wedge, Plate 4 x 4 Cut Corner


text:
Seeing if anyone can possibly tell me what brick this is
Trying to find out what kind of brick this is for a wedding book that I'm trying to make and will need quite a few of these.

It is Brick, Modified 1 x 2 x 1 2/3 with Studs on Side (22885)

To expand on Alex's answer, an example of it being used can be found in set 60243 - Police Helicopter chase

Thanks for the Answer. I edited the Alex answer for later.


text:
LEGO Express 60197 displays low battery
Using new batteries to power the controller - however on connecting the app using Bluetooth the status immediately shows low battery.
Uninstalled the app and reinstalled it with new set of batteries, but no change.

Are you using rechargeable batteries? Rechargeable batteries have a lower nominal voltage (6 batteries is only 7.2V rather than 9V) and hence the hub will report the batteries being low much faster. The powered up team indicated that rechargeables should work, but perhaps thats false.


text:
Could someone help me identify this set's bag?
I have this bag and i don't know what set belongs to, its 2011 and it has blue and white parts, so could someone help me please?

Can you upload a photo of the bag? Also see the linked question and try the steps there - let us know if you encounter any difficulties with them.


text:
Powered Up/Pybricks custom electronics?
The Pybricks documentation has a page for "custom devices", with a picture that shows circuit boards with Lego compatible cables attached. Additionally, the class that goes along with the picture seems to be used to handle generic devices. This implies its possible to make custom electronic devices for use with powered up stuff, but I can't find anything about it in the docs or on the net in general. Does anyone know anything about this? Apologies if I mess up any terminology, I'm very new to all of this.
Edit: the page in question in the docs is https://docs.pybricks.com/en/stable/iodevices/pupdevice.html

This is very specific to pybricks, so I suggest you try https://github.com/pybricks/support first. Otherwise it's a bit unclear what you asking. Do you want to know if custom (e.g. arduino-based) devices exist, or do you want to know how to make them?

The Pybricks PUPDevice class works with any device that supports the LEGO Powered UP (PUP) protocol. If you manage to implement that protocol on some other device like a Pyboard, OpenMV or Arduino, the hub will recognize it as a sensor and receive its data.
The picture you referenced shows a generic device, as well as the bottom half of the Ultrasonic Sensor. This device has two screws in the back that you can remove to reveal 6 breakout pins.

Here are several example projects that make use of it. Example code to implement that protocol is here. These projects show how to do it in Python, but ultimately the protocol referenced above is on top of UART, and could be implemented on Arduino systems too.
All of this would be a bit easier if Pybricks supported plain UART (so you could skip the protocol). You can upvote that particular feature request here.


text:
Calibration Freeze on D11
I've read through similar posts, but haven't seen exactly the same issue. Built it once, and froze during several calibration attempts. Stripped it all down, rebuilt it very carefully and still have same issue. I've since downloaded Brick Controller 2 and all motors/functionality seems to be there and working correctly. Obviously it's a very clunky interface for controlling the model, so then tried again with Control+, but had the same issue that it will move the blade a little, then just seems to stop trying anything else. Any ideas?

I have the same issue. The calibration gets to about 3/4 of the way and then doesn't do anything. Have you managed to fix it?

I haven't got enough reputation to add a comment. I had the same issue running the Control+ app from my Android phone.
Installed the app in an iPad, worked first time.
I have also been victim to other posts saying it's my build quality. I tore the whole machine apart and started from scratch, facing the same issue and much hair pulling.
Dear Lego support, PLEASE fix the Android app for the D11!

I have also read similar messages: after calibrating the blade, the sound remains on, but then nothing happens.
Who has the solution. Build again? I already did that....
I found a solution: I installed the Control+ software, not on the phone, but on another device (a tablet in my case).
It works for me. Good luck.


text:
Which LEGO set is this vehicle assembly from?
I found this in my LEGO box. I’ve looked up the brick numbers to try and identify, but I can’t for the life of me figure out what set it’s from or a part of. Looks fairly recent, though I have LEGO sets that are at least 30+ years old. It’s not something I would have built without a plan. Would appreciate the help! I’d like to find the rest of the parts and finish it!

It is a 4x4 from Extreme Team Challenge (6584) set released in 1998.


text:
Bags in color sets with no instructions
Can anyone identify what Lego set these bags are from?

Attached picture seems to be too small to identify any pieces reasonably. Could you post another, higher resolution picture please?

Hopefully these pictures are better

Does this answer your question? How can I identify a set based on one or more original sealed bags?

Based on the yellow 1x4 technic brick and the 4x6 light bley plate, plus the fact that bags containing similar colours are very common in "classic" sets, this can be identified as part of 11021-1 "90 years of play".

If you look closely at the yellow bag there are black rubber wheels and there are no items with wheels in that set; plus that set has numbered bags. These bags do not have any numbers.
That set of cassis Lego bags did get thrown into a bin with these bags though

@AaronJ This is a unique set, in that a portion of the parts are used to create the models on the box, and the rest are miscellaneous parts for your imagination. If you check the inventory of this set you'll see that it does indeed contain the aforementioned tyres.

Thanks everyone! I appreciate it!


text:
Need help identifying this set - craft with 2 propellers
old set.
thank you in advance Pls let me know if you need additional information.

Based solely on 2x2 brick with 45° slope in olive green (which is a rare part appearing only in 10 sets), this can be identified as part of set 70006-1 "Cragger's Command Ship":

(BTW I wouldn't call a 2013 set "old", as I own sets dated late 1970s)

Many many thanks Ivan.

You're welcome! However, it's customary here to "accept" an answer instead of thanking in a comment. See https://bricks.stackexchange.com/help/someone-answers


text:
Should the LEGO Batcave step 264 use 1x1 Technic bricks?
I've been building the Batcave – Shadow Box (76252):

I have gotten to step 264 and it seems odd to me that the single back bricks have a hole in them as they seem to go in sideways in the picture blocking the holes - hence only a single solid brick was really needed?

This is likely correct. Here's the instruction step that you mentioned:

In order to keep costs lower, TLG tries to limit the number of unique elements in a set and in an individual bag within a set.
The part you mentioned could have been a 1x1 system brick, but using a Technic brick here also works fine. Bag 9, the bag used for this step, already includes 1x1 Technic bricks as they are needed for subsequent steps, such as 265:

None of the other steps related to bag 9 use a 1x1 System brick. It is likely that the 1x1 Technic brick was used in step 264 in order to avoid having to include another element in this bag.

As well as keeping costs low, it also reduces the risk of using the wrong part by mistake, leading to much frustration later in the build

@MatthewJensen UGH, you just gave me flashbacks to building the Colosseum.  I think I averaged 2 wrong bricks or plates per 3 segments of the build.


text:
Identify this set: loose bag with rounded gears

Got this at a Staples/LEGO event and does not have any instructions. When I scanned the QR code it says 6172061 but nothing found on the LEGO website. Anyone knows what this set might be?

Does this answer your question? How can I identify a set based on one or more original sealed bags?

Does this answer your question? What is this extra bag from 11019 set for?

This bag contains bricks from Bricks and Functions (11019) set. You are not supposed to build particular model(s) with elements included within this set. You can find some inspiration instructions.

Thanks so much! Do you know if the bag are extra pieces? Not sure if they are meant for open-play or if there are instructions available? Didn’t seem like so on the Lego site.

The same bag has been asked about earlier:
https://bricks.stackexchange.com/a/18162/20578
You can find more details about the intention of it in the answer.


text:
Identify set for trans-orange assembly

I am sorting through my son’s old Lego sets and don’t know which this belongs to. The orange polygon pieces are similar to some Nexo Knights sets.

This is the tail end section of 70674-1 Fire-Fang.

Found by searching for sets containing "Plate 2X4 cross-coupling".

There are only 10 sets containing that piece in trans-orange, and none of them resemble your assembly. This must be the result of some free play using parts from several sets.

TIL there are two versions of "Roof rock tile 4X4 W. angle":  6120910 made in 2016 and an updated mould, 6174064 used between 2019 and 2020

There had to be a good reason that Ivan would have missed this.  I love this attention to detail.  Bravo, bravo.

I didn't look hard enough, and I just assumed there was only such a trans-orange part. My apologies.

I would have assumed the same. But the overall quality of the sub-assembly (neatly arranged dishes, arches, ...) was more like that of an official model instead of a kid's MOC, so I tried to find the set onto which the orange parts were grafted as "aftermarket" upgrades - and that's how I discovered this.


text:
Cat D11 calibration starts then stalls
My Cat D11 lego worked perfectly a few months then it stopped having full range of movements (blade, rear ripper, stairs) but still drives ok. When I try to calibrate, it starts the process but then it stops and nothing happens (no gearbox sound or movement). Any idea what to check/do?

Does this sound like the same issue you are having? https://bricks.stackexchange.com/questions/18325/calibration-freeze-on-d11

Yes very similar thanks!


text:
In what set does this purplish star-stickered part belong?
Hello I need to identify this piece. In which set is it related too.

It seems like it's a medium lavender 2x4 tile from 41055 - Cinderella's Romantic Castle, based on this sticker sheet found on Rebrickable:

It is used to represent a bed/sofa there:


text:
Identify pieces from parts list from a video
I have a screenshot of instructions from a Youtube video that include a parts list, but unfortunately no part numbers/names.
My own experience with LEGO is limited, but I was looking for a way to identify these parts to be able to buy them and make it into a gift for a LEGO and AoE2 enthusiast.
Do you have any suggestion on a good way to reliably identify these parts?

EDIT
I have changed the picture and added numbers to the parts for easier reference. I think I am already able to identify most of them through https://brickognize.com, bricklink.com and LEGO's pick-a-brick, but here are the parts I am unsure about:

2,6,13 all have a slightly lighter shade than the dark brown parts (which I have put as Reddish Brown) I would have guessed the lighter shade might be Dark Red, but would welcome some input
24, 30, 34 I am unsure which color this is supposed to be, maybe Dark Orange?
3, I am also unsure about the color - bright yellow maybe?
15 I am unsure. The closest I can think of was Brick, Round 1 x 1 Solid Stud, but it looks a bit like the sides are not smooth, so I am unsure
26 I couldn't find
31, this seems to be Body Microfigure Complete but I couldn't find it on pick-a-brick
35, I think it is Fence 1 x 4 x 1 Lattice but would welcome confirmation
11, 13, 20, 40 I could identify, but didn't find it on pick-a-brick to order - does that mean I misidentified or that it is not produced anymore?

Which of these parts are you having trouble identifying? Can you mark it somehow, like circling it in the image? Most of them are very basic ones and so identifying all of them would probably be a waste of time.

@zovits thanks for the comment. Should have highlighted from the start. Let me check and edit accordingly

@zovits I have gotten around to editing as per your request. There are now small numbers next to the parts in the picture. I think with circles the picture might have become less readable

I found some answers on Bricklink, Rebrickable and other sources:

#
Amount
Name
Part #
Color

1.
13
Tile 1 x 1 with Groove
3070, 30039, 35403, 39727, 53836
Reddish Brown

2.
4
Tile 1 x 1 with Groove
3070, 30039, 35403, 39727, 53836
Dark Red

3.
1
Tile, Round 1 x 1
98138, 35380, 35381, 39797
Pearl Gold

4.
1
Plate 1 x 1
3024, 28554, 30008, 63326
Reddish Brown

5.
106
Slope 30 1 x 1 x 2/3
54200, 18862, 33847, 35338, 50746, 63290
Reddish Brown

6.
56
Slope 30 1 x 1 x 2/3
54200, 18862, 33847, 35338, 50746, 63290
Dark Red

7.
9
Tile, Modified 1 x 2 Grille with Bottom Groove / Lip
15561, 30244, 35248, 51815, 71957, 72582, 78812
Reddish Brown

8.
6
Plate 1 x 2
3023, 6225, 28653
Reddish Brown

9.
2
Plate 1 x 2
3023, 6225, 28653
Light Bluish Gray

10.
4
Plate, Modified 1 x 2 with 1 Stud with Groove and Bottom Stud Holder (Jumper)
15573, 78823
Reddish Brown

11.
15
Plate, Modified 1 x 1 with Tooth Horizontal
49668, 35162, 49673
Reddish Brown

12.
4
Plate, Modified 1 x 2 with 1 Stud with Groove and Bottom Stud Holder (Jumper)
15573, 78823
Light Bluish Gray

13.
1
Plate, Modified 1 x 1 with Tooth Horizontal
49668, 35162, 49673
Dark Red

14.
20
Brick 1 x 1
3005, 30071, 35382
Reddish Brown

15.
1
Brick, Round 1 x 1 Open Stud
3062b, 18860, 30068, 35390
Reddish Brown

16.
24
Brick 1 x 1
3005, 30071, 35382
Light Bluish Gray

17.
18
Brick, Modified 1 x 1 with Stud on Side
87087
Dark Bluish Gray

18.
1
Plate, Modified 2 x 2 with Groove and 1 Stud in Center (Jumper)
87580
Reddish Brown

19.
2
Slope 45 2 x 1
3040
Light Bluish Gray

20.
2
Minifigure, Weapon Knife
44658a
Dark Bluish Gray

21.
6
Brick 1 x 2
3004
Light Bluish Gray

22.
681
Brick, Modified 1 x 2 with Masonry Profile
98283
Dark Bluish Gray

23.
1
Plate 1 x 4
3710
Light Bluish Gray

24.
2
Plate 2 x 3
3021
Dark Orange

25.
2
Brick, Modified 1 x 2 with Open O Clip Thick (Vertical Grip)
42925
Dark Bluish Gray

26.
2
Bar 3L (Bar Arrow)
87994, 17715, 19385, 37078
Light Bluish Gray

27.
12
Brick 1 x 3
3622
Light Bluish Gray

28.
20
Slope 45 2 x 2
3039
Light Bluish Gray

29.
4
Slope 45 2 x 2 Double Convex Corner
3045
Light Bluish Gray

30.
2
Slope, Inverted 45 2 x 2 Double Convex
3676
Dark Orange

31.
2
Body Microfigure Complete
85863
White

32.
7
Plate 2 x 4
3020
Reddish Brown

33.
6
Plate 2 x 4
3020
Bright Blue

34.
4
Plate 2 x 4
3020
Dark Orange

35.
6
Fence 1 x 4 x 1 Lattice
3633
Reddish Brown

36.
6
Window 1 x 2 x 2 Flat Front
60592
Reddish Brown

37.
1
Brick 1 x 2 x 2
3245c
Light Bluish Gray

38.
3
Plate 1 x 6
3666
Light Bluish Gray

39.
2
Plate 2 x 6
3795
Reddish Brown

40.
2
Minifigure, Shield Ovoid
2586
Bright Blue

41.
2
Plate 1 x 8
3460
Bright Blue

42.
12
Plate 1 x 8
3460
Reddish brown

43.
6
Plate 1 x 8
3460
Light Bluish Gray

44.
6
Slope, Inverted 75 2 x 1 x 3
2449
Reddish Brown

45.
2
Panel 1 x 2 x 3 - Hollow Studs
2362b, 30009b
Reddish Brown

46.
4
Plate 2 x 8
3034
Light Bluish Gray

47.
2
Brick 1 x 8
3008
Light Bluish Gray

48.
2
Plate 1 x 10
4477
Light Bluish Gray

49.
2
Arch 1 x 6 x 2 - Medium Thick Top without Reinforced Underside
15254
Dark Bluish Gray

Notes:

Picture shows incorrect amount. You need 68 pieces of Brick, Modified 1 x 2 with Masonry Profile to actually build that model. Checking individual steps the number of bricks adds up to 68.

Thanks for taking the initiative! If by your last sentence you mean "other users can add more pieces that I couldn't recognize" then you can explicitly invite others to do so by setting the answer to a community wiki, that can be easily edited by anyone.

thank you for this first list. Helped me a lot to get started in the right direction. I have edited my question to highlight the once I have most trouble with and also assigned numbers to the bricks.

I turn on my community wiki for some more fan-genearared edits on my answer.

I have added my current status of research. Is the color you put as LBG the "Light Blue Grey" from bricklink and equivalent to what Lego calls "Medium Stone Grey" on pick-a-brick

@Auther No I meant "Light Bluish Gray" on my BL.

@FlyingTeller : "Light Bluish Grey" and "Medium Stone Grey" are indeed different names for one and the same color.

Great collaboration everyone :)

Thanks to all of you for contributing


text:
Is the NASA Space-Shuttle the object with most reproductions in LEGO sets?
Even within the last twenty years, there have been a large number of LEGO reproductions of NASA's Space Shuttle, e.g.

31117 Space Shuttle Adventure
31091 Shuttle Transporter
10283 NASA Space Shuttle Discovery
7470 Space Shuttle Discovery
31066 Space Shuttle Explorer
3367 Space Shuttle
31134 Space Shuttle

There have also been Space-Shuttles made in Duplo (10944 Space Shuttle Mission ), sets with shuttle-like craft which may or may not be the shuttle (60080 Spaceport ), and actual space-shuttles included in other sets (e.g. 21312 Women of NASA ).
This got me to thinking that perhaps the Space Shuttle may be the object(s) which have been most reproduced in LEGO, but then thinking more logically it is more likely to be something more generic like a police-car (where I can see at least five sets that consist of just a police-car on the first page when searching for instructions on the LEGO website).
Does anyone know what object (or building, character, etc.) has been reproduced in as many independent LEGO sets as possible?

You probably want to define what you mean by object. Does it have to be something that exists in real life? Also, are we only including sets where this object is the main feature?

I don't want to impose too many conditions on the question, since I already think it will be difficult to answer. So, my answers to your questions would be: "Both real and fictional objects are welcome.", and "Whatever makes it easiest to answer the question".

Is a car tire an "object"?

I assume the object has to consist of multiple parts, and single parts don't count ? Otherwise a "brick" object would yield many different sizes and shapes of brick parts. Any other size/type constraints ? The line has to be drawn somewhere, otherwise objects like "rock" or "wall" or "undercarriage" would easily win.

Additionally, the specificity of the object needs to be defined, otherwise "space craft" easily wins over "space shuttle".

@NeilTarrant I don’t really understand you not wanting to impose too many conditions, you currently don’t have any. As others have pointed out, there are many uninteresting trivial answers which could be avoided with some kind of specification

Without a more precise definition of what you are looking for it is very difficult to say what has been done most. For instance, a "building" is something you can find in several thousand sets of Lego.
So, if we narrow it down and say we only consider something which can be identified as the same, the highest reproductions I can find is the Millennium Falcon from Star Wars.
This varies from a small polybag set to the Millenium Falcon with over 7500 bricks
According to Brick Land there have been 25 reproductions so far.


text:
Has anyone had problems fitting the stalactites and stalagmites in the 76252 Lego Batcave?
I have got to stage 403 and, whilst I have had problems fitting the pieces together previously, at this stage I simply cannot get the stalactites or stalagmites to fit into the studs - they seem to have a bulbous end and they simply will not fit. Is glue the answer? Has anyone else had the problem?

I guess you have a question regarding 76252 set? Glue is NEVER an answer for official LEGO set. It would also help if you added a picture of your assembly at a location you are having issue with.

Step 403 of the instructions for set 76252 - Batcave - Shadow Box constructs two stalactites like follows, so I'll assume that's the set you're talking about :

Given your description of what doesn't work for you, the only thing I can think of is that you're trying to insert the 1x1 round stud with hole (the middle part in the assembly) upside down. Look closely at the image, and make sure it's the right side up, and it should fit just fine.

No I am definitely trying to insert it at the right end !

@MikeP : then it should fit as shown. Can you clarify what you mean by "a bulbous end" ? Maybe add a photo to your question ?


text:
Where can I find the assembly instructions of the chinese Ferrari Daytona gold/black variant?
I bought on Aliexpress a Ferrari Daytona, 1:1 compatible with the original LEGO set, but it's the black/gold variant.
I didn't receive the book, as expected, but I was unaware that the set has no PDF either.
So I'm at the end of pack 3 of 7. The 4th box is where we start to build the front end of the car. I cannot continue to guess which red parts are now black and which are not gold.
Too difficult.
Do you know if a PDF is available somewhere for this variant?
If it doesn't exist, feel free to answer "no", I will upvote anyway.

Given that it’s a knockoff set using stolen intellectual property and made with minimal effort (as evidenced by the lack of instructions), I would highly doubt the existence of a recoloured instruction pdf

Ok, thanks for replying me

So this is my solution to the chinese clones:

Step one is to sort the pieces by color

Step two is to use LEGO's official instructions site to download both high-quality books.

Step three is to build using the instructions as if red and silver were replaced, so this means red pieces are black and the silver ones are gold.

(I haven't done this myself yet so this is just an idea)
EDIT: so this Chinese clone needs a refund to the Ali seller for the instructions supplied by a cloner (a cloner has more steps in same pages than LEGO was).

I undestand. I am now at end of book 3, where I built the front end, and It is now not so hard as I was supposing. Not relaxing, at all. but not hard. Thanks for replying.

Note that presumably not all pieces have been color-swapped. Most probably the Technic connectors and axles have retained their original color-coding (if the IP thieves were attentive enough to copy that as well).


text:
What is the difference between LOCAL memory for programs and LOCAL memory for Direct Commands?
I've learned a bit about Direct Commands in EV3 and understood the work of Local and Global memory. Using the Direct Commands I can access the memory using an offset of the accessing byte/bytes (like if I want to access the byte 4 - I could write smth like LVX(4) (if I use already prepared library)). Now I want to work with .rbf files and found a cool repo that can decompile it into something readable.

And then to this:

Now  I really don't understand what is going on. I had some other programs decompiled and as I understood these thing like $LOCAL4 the number in it is directing not to a offset of bytes but bits. There were also some locals like $LOCAL120 and $LOCAL121.
I want to understand is there something common between these local things? And is there docs about memory used by .rbf files?

It looks like the disassembler you used doesn't show the complete picture. Like many programming languages, the lmsasm language allows allocating variables with either a global scope or a local scope.
I wrote a disassembler in Python that will create a .lms file that can be recompiled with the lmsasm assembler. Using this disassembler should show the actual allocations, although not with the correct data types.
To explain it better, consider this example:
DATA32 MyGlobalInt

subcall MySubroutine1
{
  DATA32 MyLocalInt

  // subcall can use both global and its own local variables
  ADD32(MyGlobalInt, 10, MyLocalInt) // MyLocalInt = MyGlobalInt + 10
  ...
}

subcall MySubroutine2
{
  ADD32(MyGlobalInt, 10, MyLocalInt) // ERROR! MyLocalInt is not defined

  // we could define MyLocalInt at the start of this subcall
  // to fix the error, but it would be a new variable, not
  // related to the one with the same name in MySubroutine1
  ...
}

...

Global variables are declared at the top level of the file and can be used in any blocks (subcall, vmthread, etc.) and will have the same value everywhere.
Local variables are declared inside of a block (between curly braces). Those variables can only be accessed in that block and the value does not persist between calls of that block.

Direct commands also run as a program. They just have more limited rules compared to a user program.
So, to answer the fundamental question: memory isn't directly shared between programs.
However, there are some opcodes that can be used to access memory in other programs.
From http://ev3.fantastic.computer/doxygen/VM.html:

opMEMORY_WRITE (PRGID, OBJID, OFFSET, SIZE, ARRAY)
Write VM memory
Dispatch status unchanged
Parameters

(DATA16)    PRGID - Program slot number (must be running) (see prgid)
(DATA16)    OBJID - Object id (zero means globals)
(DATA32)    OFFSET - Offset (start from)
(DATA32)    SIZE - Size (length of array to write)
(DATA8) ARRAY - First element of DATA8 array to write

Direct command example
opMEMORY_READ (PRGID, OBJID, OFFSET, SIZE, ARRAY)
Read VM memory
Dispatch status unchanged
Parameters

(DATA16)    PRGID - Program slot number (must be running) (see prgid)
(DATA16)    OBJID - Object id (zero means globals)
(DATA32)    OFFSET - Offset (start from)
(DATA32)    SIZE - Size (length of array to read)

Returns

(DATA8) ARRAY - First element of DATA8 array to receive data

Direct command example

Using these instructions seems dangerous since one program doesn't really know what is running in the other slot, so you may or may not be reading from the memory you intended to and writing to the wrong memory could cause crashes or other unexpected behavior.
Instead, I would recommend using the mailbox opcodes to transfer information between programs if needed.

Thank You for the explanation, but I still want to know is a user program shares memory parts with direct commands like imagine: a user wrote a program, deployed it to a ev3 brick and in the program there is a block like measuring touch sensor (the value of which is not wired to anywhere), so would the value placed anywhere in memory and if yes - could it be accessed by direct commands?

No, memory is not shared directly between a user program and direct commands. However, there are some instructions you can use to access memory in other programs. I will add these to my answer.


text:
Identify this set: assemblies of black plates and tiles
I have these parts but not what set they are to.
Can you help me with what set they are a part of?
What set is this?

Based on 6171264: TILE 4X4, W/ BOW in black, this is from:
75296: Darth Vader Meditation Chamber


text:
Two misplaced bags unknown box
Son got into the Christmas stash.
I have random bags with 603R1. Which set did they come from?? Thanks.

Please add clear pictures showing the elements included within each bag. The code you've mentioned cannot be used to identify the set.


text:
Is it possible to connect a motor to a spike hub without connecting the cables?
I know it sounds foolish but can I?
I've tried Robot Inventor, but it just doesn't connect and doesn't work.

Hi cnvıkyghb and welcome to Bricks.SE! Please note that this is a Q&A site, where volunteer participants take their time to share their knowledge with askers, since they believe in the value of sharing and helping. Please show your respect to these people and this idea by taking your time to properly spell and format your messages here, if you wish to participate in this community. If you plan on staying, I'd recommend that you read the [tour] and [help] pages to get acquainted. Have fun!

Definitely not. Without cables, no electric current can flow so the motors would not be powered. Wireless power transmission at such wattage levels is not yet part of LEGO's technology stack and probably won't be for a long time. Wireless control would be possible though, but that would still necessitate some kind of power supply at the motors (batteries, mains converter, or such).


text:
What set do these four bags belong to?

Found these four sealed bags. Any idea what set they go to?

I've got a few parts leading to this query leading to 4 sets. I'm thinking this is a millenium falcon but cannot be 100% sure.

Does this answer your question? How can I identify a set based on one or more original sealed bags?

@LKBricks you can clearly see an experienced member of this community is struggling to identify the set. What kind of outcome do you expect OP (a new (!) contributor) would be able to get out of the linked article?

Starting with IvanSanchez's search (sets with at least two of trans-red projectile 8L, two of dark bley 4x6 plate w/ door hinge, two of light bley 3x12 wing/wedge), this is probably the 2019 millenium falcon 75257
If you look correctly bag 7 contains C3PO and in bag 8 is a R2D2 body.
When going through the instruction of this set you see C3PO is in bag 7 and R2D2 is in bag 8

So that's what the golden bits in bag 7 were. Good eye!

I only recognized it when going through the instructions. Was more focused on finding the red part in bag 8 in the instructions


text:
How to import a .ev3 project file into Mindstorms software
My son just built this Rubik's Cube solver and I wanted to help him with the software aspect of it. Despite being a pretty big computer geek, I'm stumped!
The software instructions say to download the .zip, unpack it, and then open the project. Instructions make reference to 1.4.0 ("as of 1.4.0...") and also recommend updating to the latest version, so presumably the instructions were written when 1.4.x or higher was the current version.
I have 1.5.0 installed.

The instructions show this in the File menu:

I only have a File > Open open, and it only allows selecting two types of files, .lmsp and .lleu. Navigating to the extracted .zip folder indeed shows it as an empty directory despite the .ev3 file being in there.

This seems stupidly stupid, though I struck out googling my way out of this. I was doubting I even had the right mindstorm software installed, so I went down a rabbit hole, finding this MS page which seems exactly right, but ultimately links to a nothing page. More searching led me to think this is the current software to use for ev3 based kits, but upon install, I find it also only allows .lmsp and .lleu files.
Could someone kindly assist in pointing me in the right direction? Is it just that this project my son found is so old I have to track down an archived historical version of the software?

I'd already written this and by guessing did indeed confirm the issue is just that .ev3 files must be for an old version of Mindstorms software. I figured I might as well post the answer to help any others running into this and confused like I was.
I ultimately installed v1.4.5, which is what downloads from the section titled "Retired LEGO® MINDSTORMS® EV3 Home Edition software for PC and Mac" on this page, which also looks to be the correct page for downloading the current (but "modern") version of Mindstorms software for EV3 sets.


text:
Which LEGO set is this from?
I recently bought a second hand LEGO set which contained 1 random sealed bag from another set.
Its bag #3, the QR code on it gives number 6171968. Can anyone identify the set from the attached photo?
Many thanks!

Based on

White Plate, Modified 2 x 3 with Hole
and
Tan Brick, Round Corner 3 x 3 x 2 Dome Top

this would be from
41349: Drifting Diner

Very much appreciated, thank you.
Now to find out how to get the other bags in the set / whether it’s worth it!!

Hi @Richard, if an answer has helped you, please click the tick mark next to it. That tells the system (and other contributors) that the question has been answered satisfactorily and is not looking for additional answers. See more in the [help], specifically here.


text:
Help Identify this Lego Item/Set
The photo is from December 30,1991.
Colors are red, yellow,
black, green and white. It was a Christmas gift for our 10 year old.

I remember those tootsie roll containers from those days.  Fun times.  :)

That would be:
6956: Stellar Recon Voyager


text:
Recognize these white and gray ships?

I want to get missing pieces but don't know Lego set number.

The top ship looked like a Star Wars X-wing, and after a bit of searching it can be identified as set 75218:

Notably, the stickers in its sticker sheet match your photograph:

Based on trans-blue 2x2 radar dish alone, the smaller ship can be identified as set 8085 "Freeco Speeder":


text:
Bag Identification: Bag 5 Possible Alien kit
We have an unidentified bag #5. It matches the color palette from Space Mission 11022 bag 5: Black, Magenta, Grey, Purple, Neon Yellow.
Distinct pieces include 4 silver grey ray guns, 4 silver grey chalets, 5 purple bionicles.

Please add a photo of your bag and its contents.

Hi Meagan and welcome to Bricks.SE! I took the liberty to edit your post to better fit the site's rules and customs, but I can't figure out what you meant by "chalet" - surely not the Alpine lodging. Similarly, there are hundreds of Bionicle pieces so that's not something one can use to identify your set. I can only second Alex's request for a photo, where the individual pieces are clearly visible (take care with focusing, lighting and resolution). Meanwhile, feel free to take the [tour] and read the [help] pages to learn more about the site and how things are done here. Have fun!

Going out on a limb here, but can it be that your bag is indeed THE #5 bag from Space Mission 11022? It ticks off all boxes:

Matches the color palette of bag #5 from Space Mission 11022 (obviously):

Has exactly four of Minifigure, Weapon Space Ray Gun - Rounded Heat Diffusers in flat silver:

Has four Minifigure, Utensil Goblet pieces in flat silver (the words "chalet" and "goblet" do sound quite similarly):

Has four plus one spare, so five purple Barb / Claw / Horn / Tooth - Medium pieces, which (in various colors) have indeed appeared in 24 Bionicle sets:

This was our original thought as well. However, we completed all builds and were left with a significant amount. None of the items like the goblet were referenced. We wanted to make sure we didn't miss a build. It looks like these are for create your own. Appreciate your response.

@Meagan "we completed all builds and were left with a significant amount"
That's entirely intentional - see this excerpt of the official product description:
"Includes everything kids need to create 10 space-themed toys, plus lots of LEGO® bricks for free-build space creations". Have fun with all the creative possibilities :)


text:
Unable to open port error
Since today, no matter what program that uses sensors I try to run on my EV3 I get the following error:
lejos.hardware.DeviceException: unable to open port
    at lejos.internal.ev3.EV3Port.open(EV3Port.java:75)
    at lejos.hardware.sensor.AnalogSensor.<init>(AnalogSensor.java:24)
    at lejos.hardware.sensor.AnalogSensor.<init>(AnalogSensor.java:35)
    at lejos.hardware.sensor.EV3TouchSensor.<init>(EV3TouchSensor.java:61)
    at ia.Sensor.<init>(Sensor.java:19)
    at ia.Robot.<init>(Robot.java:16)
    at ia.Jeu.main(Jeu.java:16)
    at sun.reflect.NativeMethodAccessorImpl.invoke0(Native Method)
    at sun.reflect.NativeMethodAccessorImpl.invoke(NativeMethodAccessorImpl.java:57)
    at sun.reflect.DelegatingMethodAccessorImpl.invoke(DelegatingMethodAccessorImpl.java:43)
    at java.lang.reflect.Method.invoke(Method.java:606)
    at lejos.internal.ev3.EV3Wrapper.invokeClass(EV3Wrapper.java:62)
    at lejos.internal.ev3.EV3Wrapper.main(EV3Wrapper.java:46)

I've checked the ports, the cables and my ultrasonic sensor (which seems to be where the problem is) but nothing. I get the same error when I try closing the sensor.

This is a stack trace. What is the actual error? Are you using LeJOS firmware or ev3dev-lang-java?

@DavidLechner Sorry, I didn't paste it correctly, it should appear now. I'm using ev3dev-lang-java.

Do the sensors show up in the in the "Device Browser" on the EV3?


text:
Software for designing your Lego Technic builds
Is there a software for designing Lego Technic builds? That way I would know which parts I really need to buy.


text:
What can I do to use my RCX brick?
I got this old mindstorms invention system 2.0 and I can't get the tower to connect. I have the right battery and adapter and a working brick. I have tried the Bricx program and it is not working. I don't know much about the situation, so I'm sorry for any lack of information.
I'm wondering if its because I have a 2.0 tower and a 1.0 brick? Or maybe my tower is broken. Is there any sign of the tower being on?
Please tell me if there is something I need to do.

The tower emits infrared light which you might be able to detect with your phone, but I don't know for sure.

Hi Joey, do you have a LEGO serial tower or a LEGO USB tower? You could open a serial terminal program and check if the transmissions are echoed back.


text:
Trouble connecting NXT 2.0 block to Mindstorms Home EV3 software on Mac
My son has finally shown an interest in Mindstorms and we are trying to use an NXT block with my 2015 Macbook Pro (latest OS) running the EV3 Mindstorms home edition software.
I have read in many posts and Youtube videos that it is possible to program in the EV3 software and upload to the NXT 2.0 brick - with a few caveats for updated sensors not being included and etc.
However my problem is I just cant see to connect the NXT by either Bluetooth or USB using the 'connect' icon at the top left of the program window. The NXT is connected Bluetooth as shows in the connected devices list. The Wizard goes through the steps to connect but just wont find it under Bluetooth or USB and just sits there.
When I try and connect in reverse from the NXT block itself to my Mac - it can then see Mac but when I click on it - it says 'failed!' on the NXT LCD.
The NXT version is showing as 1.31
The software I downloaded is 'Mindstorms home' 1.5.0
Any ideas?

The "new" Scratch-based LEGO MINDSTORMS EV3 software products don't support NXT. This includes "MINDSTORMS Home" and "EV3 Classroom".
The "old" LabView-based EV3 software does support NXT. However, it is 32-bit software and won't run on modern macOS because they require 64-bit software.
If you have access to a Windows computer or can run a Windows VM on your Mac, you can use the "old" EV3 software or even the original NXT software. Both are still available for download on the LEGO Education Retired Products page.

this makes sense now - thanks very much for the response


text:
Cat D11 Bulldozer (42131) set's calibration always reset
Calibration of my Cat D11 Bulldozer went without any issues. Everything worked fine. The problem came after. When I disconnect, either by Bluetooth or manually, the calibration data went out the window and all the functions don't work properly anymore. So I have to calibrate again. Sometimes, when calibration get stuck at the blade, I have to remove the app and download it again, to get a good calibration again. But when I disconnect the hub again I can start all over again. Anybody knows how to solve this?


text:
How can I remove a Lego 4x4 plate from a non-Lego baseplate?
I have tried using a brick separator, prying with fingers, bending the plate and stacking bricks on it.

Hi @CluelessLegoenthusiastically and welcome to Bricks.SE! If you can, please upload a picture so we can see what sort of baseplate you're faced with - the type, thickness and positioning might all offer possible solutions. Meanwhile check out the [tour] and [help] pages to learn more about the community, its rules and customs here. Play well!

Have you tried combining the already tried approaches? For example, adding some 2x4 bricks on the plate to act as a lever (in the direction of the longer side of the 2x4s), then bend the plate and the baseplate in different directions and slip the edge of a brick separator in the (hopefully) revealed space between the plate and baseplate.


text:
Which LEGO set is a gray vehicle frame from?
I bought a bag of LEGO in 2020, there is a frame which I think belongs to a vehicle. I have tried to search for the gray bricks with holes of 14x1 , but I could not identify the set. I might make a mistake with the color. Can anyone can identify the set from the photo? Any help is greatly appreciated.

This appears to be set 75086 Battle Droid Troop Carrier.


text:
I have bags 2 and 3 labeled 719R6… Which set are they from?
They are likely from the Lego Friends series, since those sets are what my daughter likes. Lots of lavender, aqua, white and grey pieces. 719R6 on both bags.
Googling it turns up a Star Wars set 7196, which it is not.

Hi LegoMom9111111 and welcome to Bricks.SE! The codes printed on the bags are unfortunately only there to identify the empty plastic bags during the packaging process - they bear no information about the contents once sealed. Can you perhaps upload a photo with as much of the contained pieces visible as possible? Or check out the linked Q&A page on how to identify the set and get back to edit this question if you get stuck. Good luck and play well!


text:
Part Identification - What are these bricks?
Any idea of what these are? Came in a lot with vintage LEGO, Nintendo Blocks (N&B) and a few other vintage items that tell me this is probably from 60's era.

A picture from Identify (very old) bricks with 2 studs provided me with the answer: It's "American Bricks", the plastic ones, manufactured by "Elgo Plastics, Inc". They date around 1950s.

Wow, great find.  Thank you!

Since you're fairly new, please read https://bricks.stackexchange.com/help/someone-answers - the customary way to say thanks is to mark an answer as "accepted".

They look more like a later evolution of "American Bricks", called "Playskool Building Bricks" (1970s). The ones in the OP's picture don't have the "American Bricks" logo on them, have more rounded studs, no notches or ridges on the sides, but notches on the anti-studs. Although, they might still have been made by "Elgo", but afaik they'd have "Elgo" engraved on the underside in that case (can't tell from the OP's picture).


text:
How to find this LEGO part name? For connection of Technic bricks and steering liftarms
I have checked Bricklink for Lego Technic but still can't find it's name.

This is part# 32069 or 64920: Technic, Steering Arm with Pins.

Found by looking at the (relatively short) list of parts in Bricklink's inventory under the Technic, Steering category.

Thank you a lot!