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Bricks with an axle hole
I'm looking for bricks/elements with an axle hole in it "sideways". I.e. so the axle hole direction is perpendicular to the stud direction.
The 1x1 and 1x2 technic bricks are obvious, but besides that, I can find only one other brick which seems to me pretty rare/exotic. I thought there were more.

Can you include the name of the "one other brick" in your question so that other people don't suggest it as an answer?
Gotta say though, I just did a quick scan in BL and I think you might be right. Would it be worth mentioning some simple two part combinations that might satisfy your requirements? (ForEx: Combine Technic, Brick Modified 2 x 2 with Ball Socket and Axle Hole (62712) or it's several variants with Technic Ball Joint with Through Axle Hole (53585)

Most connector pieces with axle holes have no orientation - ie. they can be oriented however you prefer - including with the axle hole sideways. I suspect that's not what you're after, and you're looking for parts that have both studs and an axle hole  (sideways) ?

I'd like to nominate the following pieces:

Propeller Housing

Brick, Modified 2 x 4 x 2 with Holes on Sides

Brick, Modified Octagonal 2 x 2 x 3 1/3 with Side Studs

They all have axle holes that are perpendicular to some of their studs.

Some more : Plate, Modified 2 x 2 with Pin Hole on Side and Axle Hole on Bottom, Projectile Launcher, 2 x 4 with 5 Studs, Axle Hole and Pin Lever, Technic, Brick Modified 2 x 2 with Axle Hole, Rotation Joint Ball Half Vertical, and Fist, Technic, Brick 2 x 4 x 1 1/3 with Axle Holes and 2 x 2 Cutout

The picture of part 6061 does not show that it has axle holes.  Does anyone have a better picture of that?

@chicks : just took a picture of one (lighting not ideal, but should be good enough to show these indeed have axle holes) : https://i.stack.imgur.com/goMei.jpg

@SanderDeDycker If you were to add this list as a separate answer, I'd gladly upvote it for the list of exotic parts it contains.

@zovits : I didn't add another answer because I don't feel it would improve on the answers already provided. The parts I listed are either so rare/specific they're unlikely to be useful for the op's purposes, or are a variation of a part already included in an answer. Iow - I didn't want to confuse the matter with a third answer. Feel free to include the parts in your answer if you think there's value in it.

@Sander, the purpose I have in mind is very specific so I didn't bother including it in my question. However, I think a complete list of stuff with axle holes in it (and searching in bricklink seems to miss most of the ones listed here) even though the elements are exotic would be of general use. I have no strong opinion wheter that list should be an additional answer or Zovits answer should be expanded.

Since there seems to be a consensus an additional answer is not a problem, I've added one to help complete the list.

Bar 1 x 8 with Brick 1 x 2 Curved Top End (Axle Holder Inside Small End)

Technic, Brick 2 x 6 x 1 1/3 with Axle Holes and Bottom Stud Holders (and its lightweight variant)

Since a few people have expressed they wouldn't mind an additional answer, here are some more parts to add to the list, without expectation that they're going to be particularly useful to the OP.
Some rare/exotic parts :
Plate, Modified 2 x 2 with Pin Hole on Side and Axle Hole on Bottom :

Projectile Launcher, 2 x 4 with 5 Studs, Axle Hole and Pin Lever :

Technic, Brick Modified 2 x 2 with Axle Hole, Rotation Joint Ball Half Vertical, and Fist :

And finally also a variation of a part from @IvanSanchez' answer (simply added for completeness) :
Technic, Brick 2 x 4 x 1 1/3 with Axle Holes and 2 x 2 Cutout :


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Building technique for modelling Thomas the Tank Engine faces
I'm building Thomas the Tank Engine trains, and I'm looking for techniques to build realistic faces. I'd like the trains be able to run on standard LEGO rails, so I'm targeting 8-wide engines. This series has been visualized a number of different ways over the years. In terms of style, I'd prefer to stick as close as possible to the live action models:

This leads me to the following requirements:

Faces must be no more than 6 wide
No stickers or non-LEGO elements
Faces should enhance the recognizably of these models as Thomas trains
Faces should generally be cute from a child's point of view

There have been many attempts to create Thomas models at LEGO scale. Here's one of the best examples that I've seen:

That's a larger scale than I need, but hopefully it helps provide context. I've tried emulating these techniques at smaller scale using 1x1 round eye pieces, and my attempts look a bit off. What approaches could be used to create appropriate faces at this scale?

slightly tongue in cheek, but still to the point : Duplo, Train Thomas & Friends Face, Thomas Pattern ;)

The problem is, with 6 wide to play with, and 2 of those taken up by 1×1 eyes, you're left with either 0 or 2 for the nose - and you need a nose.  So 5 wide might be better, but I don't think you can make a very good circle in 5, and a centred mouth is then 1 or 3 unless you can squeeze in an offset without adding too much depth

Rebrickable has a few Thomas tank engine MOCs that might help out.

source: Stack Exchange

license: Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/

sort: votes


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Trying to identify the lego set
I'm trying to identify this LEGO set, but have had no luck.
It's bag 2 with 209R3 number. The trademark says 2017.
I'll attach a picture. My son and I would like to build it but Google has been no help to us in finding the correct set to download the instructions.

Any ID's found on bags are cannot be used to identify the set. Please add pictures.

all_licenses: Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/


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Lego sealed bags 135149 - year 2017
I have 4 lego sealed bags with the number 135149 on it, from the year 2017.
Could someone help me find the instructions?
1 bag blue and green parts
1 bag yellow, orange and white parts
1 bag brown, black and grey parts
1 bag red and pink parts

Please add pictures.


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Connections for windup key holes?
I recently bought a set with a Windup Key (piece 29979/79812) and took note of its holes since they're slightly smaller than the standard rod / minifig accessory diameter.

After an (admittedly brief) look through my own pieces, I couldn't find anything that fit perfectly in them. The closest I could find are minifig hands, though the holes are slightly too large for them.
This made me curious: are there any legal connections for the windup key's holes?


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Which minifig is this?
I have this minifig in a set I bought. But I cannot identify it.
Does anyone know which one this is?

A few image searches can identify the components of the minifig.
Helmet is part x164, AKA "star wars rebel helmet" in plain light bley. It's Luke Skywalker's alternate headpiece in two millenium falcons (set 7965, set 75192).

As pointed out by fellow user Sander De Dycker, the head is part 3626cpb0817. It appears in more than 100 Star Wars sets, most of the time as part of an imperial stormtrooper.

Torso is part 973pb1944c01, AKA "Ultron Prime torso", which appears only in set 76031.

Legs are part 970c00pb0316 AKA "Ezra Bridger's legs" (a character from "Star Wars: Rebels"). It appears in three star wars sets.

whow, I didn't see that one coming. Thank you for the quick response.

Nicely found - to complete the ensemble, the head looks like Minifigure, Head Black Eyebrows, Cheek Lines, Chin Dimple, Grimacing Pattern.

@asusk7m550 You're welcome! Since you're new, let me remind you of https://bricks.stackexchange.com/help/someone-answers - if the answer is satisfactory, then it's customary to "accept" the answer.

It looks like Rando Calrissian to me.


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Unidentified lego bag
This bag I can't identify. It's full of black and gray pieces. I found this bag of lego parts marked 732R3 #22. Help me know what it goes to. I've had no luck searching.

The bag markings cannot identify a set. If you add a picture, we can help. Or you can look the pieces up yourself from the linked duplicate question.


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Found 2 random bags in my son's set any idea what they are?

Help finding what these pieces are would be appreciated. Colors are brown, tan, gray and black there are wheels and eyes if any of this info helps

Was expecting something a bit more, um, "unique" in the bags after being lured here by "Hot Network Questions".

Based on 6 parts that I identified:

4x4 plate (3031) in Tan
2 2x2 round plates (4032) in DBG
2x8 plate (3034) in White
Slope 3x2 (3298) in Reddish Brown
1x6 brick (3009) in Tan
4 rims (8mm d. x 6mm w/ slot) (34337) in White

All these parts are in Creative Ocean Fun (11018) set

Comparring the round 2x2 with the "Tile, Round 1 x 1 with Bar and Pin Holder (20482)" and the 2x2 in the bottom of the picture, I would guess those to be LBG.

Since this is one of those "Creative" sets I'd probably add a comment that elements included within the box are for creative building, rather specific model(s). Instructions include some inspiration models, which result in a number of elements being unused, thus may confuse as to why some extra elements being included.

@Henriksupportsthecommunity The round 2 x 2 is definitely DBG, You can see some LBG parts; plate 1 x 2 [w/ wheel bearing], brick 1 x 2 w/ hole, and plate 2 x 8. All clearly lighter than round 2 x 2 and not white

I only see one 2x8 plate, and @LKBricks determined that to be white. According to the inventories (I checked but brickset and bricklink) of the set he points to, it doesn't contain a 2x8 plate in white though, it does contain two in LBG, and it has a different color from the white elements, so I think I agree, it is LBG. That in turn makes the round 2x2 plates DBG, as I also agree there's a clear difference in color, and then the difference to the 2x2 at the bottom of the picture must be due to the lighting. I also struggled to find a set matching.


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Getting started creating LEGO kinetic sculptures
I’m brand new here and fairly new to LEGO. I’m an adult artist who wants to make LEGO-based kinetic sculptures. Can anyone point me in the right direction?
My experience is very limited — as a child raised in the “dark ages,” I was forbidden from owning or playing with LEGO because I was female (though I used to beg my parents for them, LOL). So I’ve only built a few sets recently, mostly architectural and for display. I’ve been watching videos, and reading a few LEGO idea books, but not finding a lot of info on Technic, though I did build a Mindstorms robotics set back in the 2000’s. And I’m not real interested in building cars, though I suppose I do need Technics pieces. Now I’m considering getting some of the new Technics space sets for 2024, though.
Thoughts on how I should proceed to making my first kinetic sculpture?
(I hope I asked this question the right way. It’s my first one.)

Great advice from Alex which I’m already following up on. TYSM.

If you are interested in kinetic sculptures, as you have already figured out, you would need Technic elements, mostly. While it is possible to use non-Technic elements to build moving contraptions, Technic system is designed for  dynamic models and for increased model rigidity.
General advice on learning new techniques is just either building sets you are interested in or other people's MOCs (My Own Creations). For later I suggest checking Rebrickable - it is also a great website for inspiration. While you can get general understanding of Technic system by reading some literature you need to know your elements, their physical properties, geometry, how they interact and what kind of result you could get combining several of them together. For this you may want to get yourself familiar with a variety of Technic elements - you can find them listed in Bricklink catalog under "Technic" categories. This is one of the major places where you can acquire individual parts for your own models too.
I know you mentioned you don't like building cars, but these sets usually contain the greatest variety of moving elements you cannot find in more "static" models. Bigger sets are great "part-packs" as they help out with getting yourself a decent amount of parts of different sizes and shapes. While brand new stuff is great, Technic sets are pretty robust so you may look for older models in used condition, to save some money for more LEGO.

Thank you, Alex. I’m following your suggestions.   I was wondering about buying one or two of the Technic educational kits as well? I noticed they look pretty pricey. How useful do you think they would be compared to just buying a couple of technic models, especially for an adult?

@ShyPlatypus all sets may be useful, but I find LEGO Education sets to be overpriced for what they offer. Don't quote me on this, but I think I have read somewhere the cost of teaching programme is included in the price of these sets. I, personally, have lots of Technic sets and none of Education ones.

Tysm. I appreciate your answers so much! @Alex


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Colour sensor is not working on Mindstorms EV3
If I plug the colour sensor into one of my EV3 bricks, on Port View it recognises it. However, on my other brick, it shows the colour sensor symbol but says unknown, and shows no reading. The colour sensor also flashes rather than solidly showing a single colour.

Can you use another sensor on the affected ports of both EV3 bricks?

Since the color sensor works on one EV3 but not another, it seems logical to conclude that the issue is with the input ports on the second EV3 rather than the color sensor or the cable.
If both EV3s are running the same firmware, then it is more likely to be a hardware issue rather than a software/firmware issue.
The repeated flashing means that the sensor is getting power (pins 3 and 4) but either sensor detection (pin 1) or UART communications (pins 5 and 6) aren't working.


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Any other Technic parts with a pinhole slot like part 18940?
I haven't kept up with new parts or sets for at least a decade, but recently when browsing BrickLink I ran into part 18940:

This caught my attention as I'm working on a MOC project right now where a major sticking point has been reducing off-axis slop in sliding motion. This is a very nontrivial problem in Technic builds because liftarms are ever so slightly thinner than a stud gap. The above piece caught my eye because it employs elongated pin-hole slots (see below) to solve this problem which results in a relatively rigid sliding connection that introduces impressively little friction.

However, these pieces have several other drawbacks, with half-stud-wide walls that create awkward spacing, and generally a lot of bulkiness that's difficult to build around just to take advantage of the pin slots. So I would like to know: are there any other pieces I am unaware of that feature a pinhole-slot like this?

I would think if the element you have in mind existed prior to when the slider elements were designed, there would have been no need to design the slider elements. There haven't been any improvements on the sliders in more recent sets. Hence I think it safe to conclude that the element you have in mind does not exist.

After scanning the relevant Technic part subcategories (plain Technic, Connector, Gear, Disk, Figure Accessory, Liftarm, Panel, Plate, Steering) on Bricklink, I'd say there is at most one such part besides your example and its various stickered versions:
Technic, Liftarm, Modified Bent Thick 1 x 11.5 Double

But the length of the slot is ... probably less than what you need.

Yeah that came to mind, but it's unfortunately definitely not a useable length of slot.

I can only think of Technic Beam Frame 3 x 19 with 2 Center Cross Beams, 3 Openings Thick being similar shape, with 3 elongated openings.

Unfortunately those are just full brick-width openings, not pinhole-width which is the specific feature I'm looking for.  It looks like there probably just aren't any other occurrences of that feature.


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DUPLO train engine base part# 28743 engine is not working
I've went through all of the steps here:
How to disassemble the propulsion wheels of the LEGO/DUPLO train engine base part# 28743 drivetrain?
which was a great learning exercise but unfortunately it seems like the actual motor itself has kicked the bucket. I can hear it activating when I try to push start it and kick it off from Bluetooth. It even works for a half a second.
Any idea where you can get a spare or even people who have been able to go in and fix it?

Bricklink is often the best place to find individual LEGO and Duplo parts.  The 28743c01 "Duplo, Train Locomotive Base Push & Go Motor" is currently available 18 times from $17.04 to $53.99.  This is perfect if you just want the one part and you don't want to deal with other new parts.
Bricklink also has new-in-the-box sets that include this part such as the 10874-1 Steam Train for $41.08.  Getting some extra parts and having it all be new-in-the-box sounds like a better deal to me.  This motor was in a total of 3 sets, so you may prefer one of the other two Duplo trains that have this part.


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How do I make apps in Lego Mindstorms EV3 Education?
In the EV3 manual, it says you can create custom apps, in the same page as the IR control and Port View. How do you make a new app? I found a button under tools which says "Download as app", however this is pretty much the same as a usual project - is there a way to make apps special, or are they just the same?

As you guessed, the only real difference between an app and a project is which menu they appear in on the EV3.
Going a bit deeper though (and taking the title question literally), the LEGO "apps" that come pre-installed on the EV3 are not written using the LabView-based software. They are written in the LSMASM programming language, which is a language created specifically for the EV3. The source code for these can be found here.
You can modify these or create your own and compile them with the lmsasm compiler to create your own more advanced apps that can make use of all available EV3 bytecodes that allow you to do things you can't do in the other block programming languages.


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How do I get a variable and image into the Lego Mindstorms EV3 image editor
I am making a project and I want the EV3 brick to have a GUI-like interface. It also needs to display a variable on the GUI. Is there a way to draw the GUI and have the live variable reading as well? The image text block just replaces the whole image. I would like to do this without drawing out a state for every single possible variable value and then updating it to match the variable.

Can you share a screenshot of the program that you tried that does not work?


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Where are Knox clone bricks made?
I bought a mix of LEGO pieces, that included some bricks with KNOX on studs - for example a 1×1 with KNOX on its stud, 2×3 & 2×4 with the logo on 1/2 of the studs. They have tubes like those used by LEGO but with hole going right through. Corners a little rounded. Also a brick like plate with tall hollow studs, guess holds better.
Where were they made?

What is the question? Can you post some pictures? There isn't enough here to have a discussion, let alone a Q&A.

The only thing I could find is this wooden block set, but I'm pretty certain this isn't what OP has.

I think this question is about K'Nex bricks

Yes, that is it. Looks like an O. I thought I'd fault with search engine when it came up with K'nex. Also some rods & their connector.


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Do Dreamzzz sets include multiple builds?
I've seen the Dreamzzz sets, and I am curious if they generally include multiple builds per set. For example, here's a shot from the back of Dream Village (40657):

Is this a different build than the main model pictured on the front of the box? Are there separate instructions for this model?

The Dreamzzz sets are not 2-in-1 sets in the same vein as sets such as Exotic Parrot from Creator 3-in-1 that include completely distinct builds using using the parts included in the set:

However, they do tend to include a choose your own adventure element as part of the build. There is commonly a point in the build where the builder gets to decide between different paths that lead to somewhat different final models. Here's what this looks like specifically for Dream Village:

In the case of that set, there are no new parts to add after this point. The choice is between assembling the six modular components created so far into a single large structure, or 3 smaller structures. In essence, each of the smaller building can split into a lower and upper story. If desired, these have connections points on certain edges that can allow them for form a larger structure:

This approach is common in the Dreamzzz line. Many of the larger sets include customization instructions after a barebones model has been completed. Here are the two included options for Stable of Dream Creatures:

Instructions are provided for these 2 styles, but the intent appears to be to demonstrate that there is opportunity for modification, adjustment, creativity and rebuilding with these sets.
Some sets go even farther than this by providing alternatives for significant portions of the build. Fantastical Tree House includes a pair of options:

These options may look similar at first, but they actually require building completely different modules:

The modules used in that set are the same basic size as those from the Dream Village, so there is opportunity to remix between different sets within the theme:

Overall, these sets don't provide the same experience as true multi-build sets, but they do have additional build paths beyond a standard set.


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Detect stalling Motor in the new EV3 Education Classroom
I have a gripper that should automatically stop closing when an object is grabbed. I achieved this in the older EV3 Home Edition by reading the motor current and comparing it to normal values. If it differed, the action would be stopped because the gripper arms caught the object and the motor 'stalled.' I'm keen on achieving this by reading the motor values as I dont have enough touch sensors on hand.
Now, while migrating to the newer Scratch-like version of the EV3 App, I cannot find a block that serves this purpose. I did some research but found nothing(regarding the newer version at least), except for this post: Read power usage and respond when motor is straining which, as far as I understood correctly, does not answer my question.

Is there a block in the newer Mindstorms Classroom version that has similar functionality that I've just overlooked, or are there some mechanisms I can use that have the same result/effect as my current programm in the older version?
Any help would be greatly appreciated, Thanks!

There are only two motor feedback blocks in EV3 Classroom, one that measures the motor position and one that measured the motor speed.

When a motor is stalling or is overloaded, the measured speed will be less than the requested speed, so you should be able to use that to implement stall detection.


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If I put the bushing wavy side the wrong way will it affect my build? (Technic Ferrari car)
I am on step 81 and just realized that the small parts have a wavy and straight side and that I have to put them a certain way, I’m not sure if all of them are the correct order will this affect my build? If it shows that the wavy side is on the inside and I put it on the outside?

Could you please clarify which set number you are referring to? LEGO has produced at least 6 Technic/Racers sets over the years with two (42125 and 42143) in just last 2 years.

Assuming you're talking about Technic Bush :

The wavy side is such that it can interface with studs. For example using a Technic, Plate 2 x 4 with 3 Holes :

As long as the bushing isn't sitting against studs (like the example above), the orientation doesn't really matter.

I assume your set is Ferrari Daytona SP3 (42143).
The step 81 you refer to looks like this:

In this particular case and most of the time it doesn't really matter which side you place Technic Bush within the model. Well, maybe for reasons of aesthetics you may want to keep symmetry. Modern sets have a tiny ring around both end to reduce surface friction. As long you don't push bush too much it will allow rotation no matter which side you place it.
"Wavy" feature isn't really used that much these days. But the reason one of the ends is wavy is illustrated in answer by Sander De Dycker.

Thank you so much


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Which Hot Wheels vehicles are compatible with LEGO bricks?
I recently came across this Hot Wheels vehicle:

It includes a pair of LEGO-compatible elements along with studs that can be used to customize the vehicle. Are there other Hot Wheels vehicles that are compatible with LEGO?

I am aware of 5 Hot Wheels castings that provide LEGO-compatible connections currently:

Custom Small Block

Bricking Trails

Brick and Motor

Brickin' Delivery

Bricking Speed

These are all Mega collaborations created between 2021 and 2023. Kevin Cao was designer for all of these.
There have been other collaborations in the past that were LEGO compatible, such as Mega Bloks Hot Wheels 3-in-1, but these are more like building sets than traditional Hot Wheels cars. There is at least one element of interest in these sets, though. There is a 2x8 vehicle base that is compatible with Hot Wheels track that can be used as the base for custom vehicles:


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Please help me identify LEGO set
I bought used set (75301) but the bricks seems not to belong to the set actually.
Could you please help me to identify the right set?
I am very grateful for any help :-)

Based on the 4x4 radar dish in dark blue from the top-left bag (and a bit of digging), the top two bags seem to be consistent with set 75283 Armored Assault Tank:

The 2x2 light grey tile with the insignia, however, should be a sticker instead of a printed tile (according to the parts list for the set):

Based on parts Aircraft Fuselage Forward Bottom Curved 6 x 10 with 3 Holes and Technic, Axle Connector Block Round with 2 Pin Holes and 3 Axle Holes , the two bottom bags can be identified as part of set 75314 The Bad Batch Attack Shuttle:

Note the fuselage part and the sheer amount of technic connectors in the bottom right bag. Also, note part 98834pb30 Vehicle, Spoiler with Bar Handle with Black Outline Bolts on Sand Blue Background Pattern (Sticker) in the bottom left bag:

Why you have stickered parts in seemingly sealed bags, and why is there a 2x2 tile with separatist insignia in the bottom left bag, I cannot tell.

Thank you very much for your efforts Ivan it was very helpful!


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Steam train 10874 draining batteries in seconds
Santa brought my son a new Steam train 10874. We assembled it and put brand new 4xAAA (1.5V) batteries. The train works for 4-5 seconds and then stops. Connected it to the app and it shows batteries are down in 5sec. On next start it is the same. Changed 2 more sets of different batteries, but it is still the same. Any suggestions?

Contact customer support.

Since this is entirely new set, getting in touch with LEGO Customer Support will be your best way of addressing this issue. They will be more than happy to help you.

Yes, will try that!

Draining batteries in five seconds should be impossible. The batteries would go up in flames.
What’s possible is that you bought fake batteries that have practically no charge. Or you picked batteries that were in a drawer for the last 20 years. Or you put in batteries the wrong way round, which should be hard with AAA batteries.

The batteries don't need to be 0% charged in order for the train motor to stop - their combined voltage just need to drop under a given value.

@zovits Motors tends to be driven by current, not voltage. Cheap batteries will have large internal resistances and can't deliver enough current...


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Can I connect technic hub 88012 to remote 88010 directly?
My seven year old has got the Technic hub and remote, and we were expecting them to pair but they won't. Do we have to pair them via the app or can they pair directly?

You can connect them directly using Pybricks (a 3rd-party firmware for the Technic hub).
There are some tutorials at: https://pybricks.com/projects/tutorials/wireless/remote-control
Using official LEGO software, you have to use an app as a relay between the two.


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Lego Control plus doesn't work with Cat D11 Bulldozer (42131)
When I am testing my remote control for the Cat D11 Bulldozer (42131) all features are working except the two motors for the wheels. Also when I am syncing the CONTROL+ app nothing is working. I have tested the motors with BrickController 2 app and the motors are working perfect. I also installed the CONTROL+ app on another device (tablet) with no result. I tested it also with the motors connected directly with the hub, no result. What am I doing wrong?

Same here ! Finally you found a solution !?


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Can anyone identify this red LEGO Technic car set from the late 80's/early 90's?
Kit built a jeep or race car. Roughly from the late 80's/early 90's.
Car had a rear differential, wishbone suspension and rack and pinion steering.
Very similar to http://www.technicopedia.com/8865.html but I don't think they are the same.
Photo in its current state might have modifications from the original plans though.

Update here's it rebuilt, couldn't be bothered finding some pieces in the correct colours though...

Glad to see you were able to reconstruct it!

Searching for sets containing both 1x6 technic bricks and 6x10 plates in red quickly yields set 8865.

Note that this set came with instructions for two different builds; you seem to have the remnants of the alternate build (seen on the bottom of the cover for the instructions booklet).
See also the back of the cardboard box from this eurobricks review:

That was as close as I could find too, just since the windscreen/roof was different (possibly modified though) and a few other discrepancies made me wonder if there was a similar kit I didn't see... Thanks for the help!

Will see how I go rebuilding it now I have the instructions (and hopefully enough of the parts!)


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Minifigure overview and Combinator
Does anyone know website or program which provides an easy overview over LEGO minifigures and allow me to recombine parts from different minifigures and show me kind of preview picture?

As noted by J.C. Tchang, some options include leocad's minifig wizard...

... and bricksmith's minifig generator:

I will go with LeoCAD’s Minifig Wizard, although i wish it had some Filtering or Search function


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Can't find the stickers!
I have an Indiana Jones 8+ 77012 box, but I checked for the stickers and there weren't any of them for the fighter plane, the car, and the sign for Berlin in the box or lego bags, I remember that someone from my Mom's office bought this for me.

Contact customer support.


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Caterpillar D11 (set 42131). will not calibrate the blade tilt function
I finished building my LEGO technic CAT D11 set and I tried using the C+ app but the first try It did nothing so I searched and found I accidentally missed a gear and put it in my extra pieces box so I put it where it went and tried to calibrate again this time it raised the blade but did not tilt it. I did some research and found it might be the shifter so I looked and could not find the problem. when I calibrate it shifts into the first mode but when its done it doesn't shift into second gear. (desperately looking for help) if you can help please respond. thanks. :)


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No instructions for sealed Lego bags
I have 4 sealed bags of lego with no instructions. Each bag has a QR code which provides a number (one is 6172062) but nothing comes up online.
Please see photo below of bags.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.
KR
Mark

These bags appear to be from "90 Years of Play" (11021) set released in 2022. You can download instructions directly from LEGO. Identified by Technic, Brick 1 x 4 with Holes in Yellow.


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Error of Control+ calibration test on CAT D11
I've just finished building set 42131 Cat D11 Bulldozer, but unfortunately I couldn't do the final calibration before driving it...
I carried out the tests during construction and everything was OK.
Now, at the first stage of calibration, the shovel goes up and down correctly and then nothing, the application freezes without going on to the next stage...
Thanks in advance for your answers!


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Help identify Mega Bloks set with red, blue and metallic gold elements
I found this set in my garage. It belongs to my son but we don't have the instructions and since we don't know the name or theme of the set we can't find it online. I don't even know if everything is supposed to be together!
Some parts broke sadly.


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Help ID this set!
My school received a bunch of built Lego donations. However this was in with it and we don’t have instructions or know the set!
6 bags has bag three with blue pink and purple mostly with pieces that remind me of a steering wheel for a ship! Has pieces with eye lashes
Every time I upload a photo it says too large

"Every time I upload a photo it says too large" Have you tried to resize your images? Today's cameras and smartphones take pictures of previously never seen resolution and thus file size - a 50% reduction in the resolution would probably result in a fitting, yet still recognizable image.

Based on the fact that most (if not all) lego "classic" sets group colours by bags, and my guess that "pieces that remind me of a steering wheel for a ship" might mean round plates with gear teeth, I can make an educated guess for set 11019.
Note that the instructions booklet for the set show that a blue-pink-purple assembly with gear plates and lashy eyes can be made from bag 3:


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Electronic inside Spike Ultrasonic Sensor 45604
What is inside the Spike Ultrasonic Sensor 45604?

Pictures of Top&Bottom PCB-Assembly would be helpful.
PoweredUp Cable and Connector use 6-Pin, but why is there used 8-Pin connector inside "black-and-white" Module connection? Are these 2 additional pins in use? What is their function?

The back of this sensor unscrews. The back breaks out the 6-pin cable into an 8-pin connector:

The order of the connections for the pins in that picture from left to right are:
 6    5    4    3    x    x    2    1
ID2  ID1  VCC  GND   x    x   M2   M1

The primary sensor can be pulled out of the front of the part:

We can then remove the shroud around the sensor to reveal the front side of the PCB:

The largest chip on the front side is an STM8S105K6.
Here's the PCB from the back:

The largest chip on the back is a HEF4049BT hex inverting buffer.
I don't have any insight into why an 8-pin connector is used internally when there are only 6 conductors in the wire, but I did confirm electrically that 6 of the 8 pins are connected to the 6 conductors in the wire.
There are 3rd-party breakout boards that can make the connections from the back of the ultrasonic sensor available for advanced usage:

A header (or individual wires) of appropriate size can also be inserted directly into the back of the sensor without a specialized board, but the pitch is smaller (0.050" or 1.27mm) than what is typically used by hobbyists.

I'm confused/intrigued by https://community.legoeducation.com/blogs/31/220 , about "the back of the [distance] sensor can be removed and the cable detached, effectively becoming a LEGO Power Functions 2.0 (LPF2) breakout cable"

@IvanSanchez Thanks for sharing that! I've added info about that breakout board to the answer.

My guess for the 8-pin mystery is that it's a fail-safe mechanism. AFAICS, pins 3 and 4 are +VCC and GND, whereas 5 and 6 are not connected to anything. Since the connector is symmetrical, one could plug a connector rotated 180° - when doing so, +VCC and GND are connected to nothing, i.e. a fail-safe state. If this fail-safe was not in place, it could be possible to connect +VCC to GND and GND to +VCC (or some other weird combination) and potentially damage the circuits.

Thanks for your quick answer Can you confirm uC : STM8S105K6 in QFP on Top-Side ?
What is the SO16 Chip on Bottom Side ?
An Hex-CMOS Inverter as 9V Driver would be in SO14, so would not fit ... Jo

@user22626 I've added the info for those chips.

Pins 5 and 6 can also be multiplexed as UART. Pin 5 is TX and pin 6 is RX from the point of view of the hub.


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Instructions for bag 2 with id 135149
My kids thinks it’s something form a Star Wars bag but we don’t have instructions anymore.  Appreciate your help.

Based on the red & blue 1x2 brackets, the 2x2 dark blue curved slopes and the minifig binoculars, this can be identified as set 75317 "The Mandalorian and Child"


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What's the best way to store a fragile assembled set?
I am new to Lego and a few years ago I bought a Winter Holiday Train, as well as the remote control and battery pack. I assembled it and use it each December as part of my Christmas tree setup. Every year I pack it up carefully, by using tissue paper to wrap all the train cars and engine. I wad up some of the tissue paper and I carefully fit it around the different parts to protect them. Then I pack up the track and the parts and they still, even with all the wrapping and protection, fit in the original box.
The issue is that every year when I open it up I have parts that have fallen off the train cars and have to look things up in the manual to make sure they go back in the right place. Pulling the battery pack of the coal tender always means that car falls apart and has to be re-assembled again. There are other parts that are problematical.
On the engine, the smokestack and smoke repeatedly come off. You can see there's not much smoke because it falls off so easily it's lost. The cow catcher and the wheel assemblies also tend to fall off easily.

On the caboose, the lanterns, the doors, the man, and the "lights" on the side of the car frequently come off.

There are more parts that easily come off over the holidays or during storage. (While the tree display is generally protected, sometimes the train is the victim of the car or grandkids.) However, breakage during the holiday season is not nearly as frustrating as having to re-connect so many parts every year when I unpack this.
I get that, for true Lego fans, the idea of gluing anything is offensive. I did find a good answer on here about what kind of glue to use, if one wants to use that. I understand the reasoning behind not gluing. My intent, with this train, was to have a train that looked nice around the Christmas tree (and the kind of trains I played with in the 60s and 70s as a kid are now in the $300 range or more and the trains I had as a kid, while functional, have older tracks that aren't as "failsafe" for the train, when running, as this set).
I'm sure a lot of people have reasons to store assembled sets, such as for transit to shows, or to keep them safe when not on display at home. Are there any other ways to store this set to keep it intact from one year to the next?

I haven't done this so I don't have the voice of experience, but the first thing I thought of when I read your description was "pick and pluck (aka pick and pack) foam." You can find it in different densities and it lets you create foam forms for custom shapes. If you get small enough pull-out cubes to match your train outlines, that would protect better than tissue paper.

Models that are transported for shows are often built by the person who then has to set it up, meaning they have first hand-knowledge of what how something was build - and the things that come off during transport often don't need to be placed in the exact same place, e.g. if I had build something like that caboose and the red light came off during transport to some show it wouldn't matter if I placed it on that stud, most people who would see it at that show wouldn't know, and the small number of fellow fans that had seen it before wouldn't  care (because they know the situation).

@FredricShope I'm looking into that - never heard of it before. That might do it - expensive, though!

@Henriksupportsthecommunity Good point about those transporting. As for the placement, yes, the little colored "lights" don't have to go in the same place, but I also have things like the wheel carriages fall off, along with other parts where placement matters - or needs to be symmetrical so it doesn't bug a young family member who gets confused when I don't keep things lined up or balanced.

Something that comes to mind to prevent losing parts is to put each train section inside a resealable bag. That way when things fall off, it's easy to see which section they came from, and makes sure they don't get lost. Depending on how much you enjoy the actual construction process of Lego sets, you could also just dismantle it each year as you pack it away, and rebuild when you set it up.

@MatthewJensen I already wrap them up in such a way that when the parts fall off, they're still with the particular car they belong to. While I like the assembly, getting things up for Christmas and taking them down is not a time when I can just stop and take the time for something like that. Reassembling the train would take hours and I definitely do not have that much extra time with all the other things going on to get ready for Christmas.


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I have a pair of bricks that I would like identified. They are like a Slope 33 3 x 3 Double Convex Corner but with an uptick
I have a pair of unusual bricks that I would like identified, I have lost the instructions so cannot identify them.
I have tried searching on Bricklink and Rebrickable (even Google Image search) but cannot find them.
They are like a Dark Red 3675 (Slope 33 3 x 3 Double Convex Corner) but with an uptick on the opposite corner.

EDIT:
It's certainly not warped, it is curved by design, but perhaps it is not genuine lego, although I cannot remember buying any other sets.

Are there any letter or number markings anywhere on the part? Inside the stud hole, underneath?

I suspect this is not a LEGO element. I would expect to see "LEGO" inside studs.

Just has the number 6 underneath, LEGO does not appear when the holes are inverted like that.

What = an uptick? Can't see it. Maybe Minitalia, Italian Lego 1970's as hollow stud.

@james.cookie since when does LEGO not have their logo inside recessed studs? Maybe you aren't looking at LEGO elements in your collection? I did a quick check on few random parts than have recessed stud (a window frame, Technic brick and a brick with studs sideways) and all of them have a LEGO logo inside. Same window frame has a logo inside all recessed studs, even the one that have PIP (Plastic Injection Point) like you see in your picture and still have a logo there, albeit less readable/incomplete. And your piece is large enough to have more than "6" as Part ID on the underside.

Alex - perhaps you are right, I have checked other parts with recessed studs and they do all have the logo inside (just never noticed before!)

I have found it - it's Kre-O rubbish:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Hasbro-Transformers-Grimlock-Street-Attack/dp/B00KONR5Z6


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Getting more tracks for 9V trains
I own sets 4551 (Crocodile Locomotive) and 4583 (Load N' Haul Railroad). The rails are 9V conduction type with metal top.
How can I get additional rail to extend my line?
Can I use RC/PF rails and get the newer trains that do not need conduction from the rails??

I've 1 curved you can have, seen some on eBay £1-50 each months ago.

LEGO doesn't make tracks that can conduct electricity anymore, so to get more you have three options:

3rd party manufacturers - I know there are companies making curved track for larger curves than LEGO's own, I can't rule out that there's also companies making other types of track, but there's also copyright for them to think about
Used parts - curved track is cheap, straight tracks are expensive (most train sets came with a lot of curved track to make a circle, only some with a few straight tracks)
Make you own - as Ivan's answer details

Another solution is to buy some PF/PU trains motors etc., and rebuild the trains you have to use that, and drive them on plastic tracks. I guess you can find guides (for at least some models) online.

Thanx for prompt reply. Which 3rd party manufacturers? Will think about option 3. Any links to option 2??

I know some friends who are more into trains than I am have bought some of the mentioned curves, but I don't remember the companies names. For buying any kind of used LEGO, bricklink is probably the most used option, some people prefer brickowl. And then there's also auction sites like ebay, and local options (in Denmark we have something called "den blå avis" = "the blue newspaper"), flea markets/thrift stores/... - you might encounter sellers who doesn't know the market prices, that might both be good and bad.

If your problem is obtaining more tracks suitable for 9V lego trains, one option is to use copper foil tape to electrify currently available tracks.
Chris Meyer wrote a lengthy article about this, so please read it. His results look encouraging:


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Why is my powered up system allowing only 1 speed, & only with the remote button held down?
My new MOC has a powered up battery box & motor, but only will run at the fastest speed. There is no speed control, when there should be many speed options. Also, it will only operate at all, if the button on the remote is held down. The moment you release the forward or backward button, it stops. Is anyone able to help with figuring this out?

Hi Warren and welcome to Bricks.SE! You say this is your new MOC, but if it's your own creation then we can hardly offer support without knowing what you have built and which parts are you using to control it. Please post a photo of it, so that we can see what's the issue.

What you are describing is bang-bang mode. If the hub isn't connected to a smart-device running the powered-up app and the connected motor isn't a train motor, it's how a powered up hub connected with a powered up remote behaves.
It's reasonably straight-forward to create a project in the powered-up app to implement gradual speed control, but I dislike this option because it requires you to have an additional device (smartphone or tablet) running along side your moc.
My go to solution for this is Pybricks. It installs alternative firmware on your hub, allowing you to upload python programs to the hub.
For example here is code to control the LEGO Technic Audi RS Q e-tron (42160) with the powered up remote.


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What does a white icon of a brick with a plus sign mean in the instruction booklet?
I'm putting together the LEGO Orchid from the botanicals collection. On page 26 of the instruction booklet, step 34 has a strange icon: a white 2x2 brick with a "+" (plus) symbol.

There are no bricks that look anything like this piece being used in this step, and the arrow is pointing to a rod.

What is this icon trying to communicate?

It means that the part does not come in a numbered bag.
For example, see page 117 of the instructions for set 42158 "NASA Perseverance Rover", which I recently built:

That's telling me to get ready the contents of numbered bag 3, plus the wheels. If I recall correctly, the wheels did not come in any numbered bag, but rather in either an unnumbered bag or loose in the set's cardboard box.
Then the symbol is used again in the specific instructions step in which the aforementioned parts (in my case, the wheels) are used:

The same happens with bag 4 and some flex tubes. Again, the flex tubes were not inside bag 4:

This symbol is not only used in Technic builds. For example, see the instructions for set 60335 "Train Station":

Specifically for set 10311 "Orchid", note that the symbol also appears on page 20 of its instructions booklet, about what numbered bag goes next:

I never would have guessed that this was what this symbol meant, but one of these rods was indeed free floating. (The other was in bag 1, weirdly.) Thanks!

You're welcome! BTW, they're not "rods", they're "axles". You've come to the place where people can be extremely nitpicky about nomenclature of parts :-P

Thanks. I wasn't sure what the correct term was -- not like the instruction booklet has the names written anywhere. :-/

Don't worry ;-) bricklink.com is your friend for identifying stuff given a set number.


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Duplo train engine base part - replacement DC motor - which part to buy?
I have two Duplo train base parts, one that works, one that I want to repair, as it does not work (connects via Bluetooth, but in the end motor does not move). I disassembled that and figured out the motor does not work, even when I apply 5V manually to plus and minus terminals (on the other hand I can make motor moved that way). The motor shows "open line" resistivity, in contrast to around 10 Ohms in case of working motor. So it is broken (likely the wire has burned inside the motor and hence the open line).
Question: what motor should I buy for the replacement so that it fits? It is a relatively new part, so these "must" still be manufactured. The motor has no brand or marking on it whatsoever except for R 033K, which did not help me in any way.
There is a DUPLO train engine base part# 28743 engine is not working  but I do not want to buy entire part, just the motor.

I don't have that DUPLO part handy, but this certainly looks like a standard type 130 toy motor:

These are available at many online electronics parts stores. Before you order, you'll likely want to confirm with the specific datasheet that the size of the motor matches yours. Here's an example datasheet that you could check against:

Interesting information, thanks. I wonder whether it's possible to replace the original motor with one that runs better from NiMH rechargeable? (i.e., 4.8V power source rather than 6V)

I googled the 130 motors, there are different motors with same dimensions. They differ in electric properties so it might be possible to alter that.

I ok'd the answer as this motor looks identically and it fits the dimensions shown above. Thanks!

I checked that you cannot any motor in there. If the motor takes too much current the drive electronics will interpret this as "train hit the obstacle lets stop". So it cannot be very different from the original one.

Hmm. All of the LEGO motors used 12v motors for durability or the replacement motor is rated at a similar voltage or different brand/company of the motors?

I see no serious rating on the motor.  In the end I fixed the original motor, but I still have to research replacements, as the repaired original motor performs unevenly to an other exemplar of original motor that I posses.

@Repairer, What could check the voltage? Is that 4.5 or so?
Tsukasa


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How to connect & program Powered Up train motor?
I'm new to LEGO and am trying to motorize my Hogwarts Express train. Per the LEGO site, I bought the 88011 Train Motor and the 88006 Move Hub. But I can't figure out how to use them. I connected the wire from the Train Motor to the C and D ports but get nothing.
I downloaded the Powered Up App (which I also don't understand) which was synced with the Move Hub so at least I know the Hub batteries were installed correctly. Within the app I created a project ("Train") but then what?  Are there instructions that explain the icons in the app and how to use them?
I also have a controller from a City Passenger Train (which does run) but I don't see how to use it with the 88011 Train Motor.  The controller seems to control ports A and B but ports A and B on the Move Hub look like red axles.
I've tried YouTube but the YouTube videos don't bother explaining these basics as if to say "If you have to ask, you're probably too dumb to use LEGOs."
So, can someone please help me get to first base by getting this train motor to do something? What do I plug the Train Motor cable into?  And then, how do I say "GO"?
Thanks in advance.

By "City Passenger Train" do you mean 60197, or something else?

Are there instructions that explain the icons in the app and how to use them?

Yes - in LEGO Customer Service section. At the time of this writing:

LEGO® Powered Up programming blocks (web page)
LEGO® Powered Up programming blocks (PDF file)

At the very least, you'll want to start the program...

...set power to the motor connected to port C (or D, as appropriate)...

...wait a few seconds...

...then end the program.

Thank you so much!  This is EXACTLY what I needed.

Thank you so much, Ivan!  This is EXACTLY what I needed.
For the benefit of others, here is how I connected it.
I decided to attach the Motor Hub to the top of the Train Motor. But, before building up the Train Motor, I strongly advise attaching everything and trying it out.
Step 1: Put batteries in the Motor Hub.  If the light doesn't go on when you hit the green button then you probably have a problem with the batteries.
Step 2: Attach the cable from the Train Motor to either the C or D port of the Motor Hub.
Step 3: Download the LEGO Powered Up App.  With the app, create a new "project" for your train.  Then using bluetooth sync the app to the Motor Hub.  This part is tricky but when it's all synced and ready, there will be a green checkmark over the bluetooth symbol on app.
Step 4: Following the advice in Ivan's post above, create a simple program by dragging the pieces from the bottom of the app to the center section and connecting them.

I recommend inserting a pause right after the "Go" (green arrow) to give you time to put your hands on both sides of the train to keep it from flying off.
Then add the olive green "start motor" block (it has a lightning bolt.)
This block has 2 important parameters. The left parameter sets the
port.  Change this from A to C or D, depending on where you connected
the Train Motor cable.  The second parameter specifies the speed and
the direction.  A negative speed sends the train in reverse.

Step 5: The Train Motor replaces the "coal car".  I disassembled the "coal car" and used the parts (plus other spare parts) to build up the Train Motor such that I could attach the Motor Hub on top of the Train Motor.  The trickiest part of this is that the Motor Hub is much longer than the Train Motor so, in other to allow the new "motorized" car to attach to the other cars using the coupling plates, I needed to extend it in such a way that the coupling plates were at the same height as on the other cars.  This took a few hours of fiddling.
Step 6: There are a lot of other things you can do with that app.  For example, you can connect things to the red A and B ports and set your program so that they also spin while the train is running.


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what set are these from
Have some lego bags with 232g9 printed on them. What set would these be from? Thanks in advance
Cheers Curtis

Hi there, welcome to Bricks SE! The printed code on bags is meaningless when trying to find the set. Have a read of the answer above, and if that still doesn’t help, then please upload a photo of your bags


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Which set does these Lego bricks belong to?
There are 5 bags labeled N805. Pieces are black white and red and contain wheels. So I am thinking a vehicle of some kind???

Welcome to Bricks.SE. The numbers on the bag are not helpful for identification.  Can you upload pictures?


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Did LEGO ever make motorised boats?
Did LEGO ever make motorised boats? Or an official motor that could be attached to LEGO floating boats.

LEGO had a "Accessory Motor for Boats" included in small number of boats/sets but also released as Accessory Motor for Boats polybag (7099) add-on.
Sets that included the motor in Orange are 7906 and 7899 and in Yellow are 7244, 4669 and 7099 mentioned above.

And here's a picture from Turbo-charged Police Boat (4669) set's instructions showing how to attach and operate the motor.

The Lego police boat (set 4010, from 1987) had a notch for fitting a motor on the bottom of the hull and it was referenced in its instructions:

The instructions read, in several languages:

In some countries propellor motors (not made by LEGO™) are available from model shops. The notch in the bottom of the hull allows these motors to be attached.

There are other boats with similar hulls: sets 4011, 4012, 4020, 4021, 4022, 4030, 4031.
According to https://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?/forums/topic/156353-boat-hull-motors/ , the notch is compatible with the Playmobil 5159 Submarine Motor:

I think all the boat sets from that era with a single-piece hull had the notch for a Playmobil motor.

@Mark I have several boats from that era that all have the mount point.  I figured it was for a motor but I have never actually seen one!


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What Disney kit has part number 35347 with vines sticker on it?
What Disney kit has part LEGO Cylinder 3 x 6 x 6 Half with Tower with vines Sticker (35347) on it? Have all the set in pieces but the manual has been lost so do not know which manual to look for.

Based on your description and the element number, the only set I found matching this description is 41154: Cinderella's Dream Castle


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What is this 2x2 part with one corner curved up?
I recently came across this LEGO part:

What part is this? What can it be used for?

The part is Plate Special 2 x 2 with Double Inverted Curve, 1 Stud (4190).

It was introduced in a few sets in 2023. It's original use was to provide an upward curve on roofs. This can be seen very easily in Himeji Castle (21060):

It can of course be used for many other things. Trivially, these parts can be tiled to create small peaks in a 4x4 area:

These parts are also compatible with some of the other recent inverted curved slope elements. For example, here it is next to Brick Curved, Internal Double, 3 x 3 with 1/3 Inverted Cutout, Corner (73682):

This is the same profile as Brick Curved, 3 x 1 with 1/3 Inverted Cutout(70681):

This curve also aligns perfectly with the curve of the telephone bow, assuming that is can be inverted:

Here's one way those parts can be used together:

Because the telephone lines up with a pair of these, the 2x1 bow slope also lines up easily:

The notched variant (29119/29120) of those slopes are also compatible:

In fact, those parts can be used to fill both sides of this part at once:

There are plenty of ways to use this part, either by integrating with other slopes, or arranging it using SNOT techniques. For example, here's a quick window that I made to demonstrate how these can be combined to create a nearly circular outline:


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What Lego set do these go to?
I have bags 2,3,5 and 6 the number on the bags is 321R9 from 2017. Any help would be appreciated.

Codes are totally irrelevant for set identification - please post clear photo with contents.


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What set is the best value for what you pay (lowest average cost per brick)?
Which Lego set is the best value for its cost? What I mean, is if you were to find the average cost per brick, which set would be the lowest? I feel like it would be something with lots of tiny pieces, like a mosaic, but not sure what exactly it is.

Depends on what you mean by "vaue", really. Number of parts? Rare minifigs? Play time?

@IvanSanchez : the op specifies "lowest average cost per brick" as their criterium for best value.

For what it's worth, I think this question is unfairly getting downvoted and close voted. I find the question to be clear and with a straightforward and useful answer. I suspect the title is part of the culprit, so I've augmented it with what was specified in the body of the question.

@SanderDeDycker In that case, this is a duplicate of https://bricks.stackexchange.com/questions/9545/what-sets-have-the-best-price-per-part-ratio/

Does this answer your question? What sets have the best price per part ratio?

@IvanSanchez : so it is. I missed it.

For miscellaneous building, I can get a 1300 piece parts box for $50 at Costco when they're on sale. For specific MOCs, since I don't build much, I've found ordering exactly the needed pieces the most cost effective.

Brickset allows you to sort sets by "price per piece" if that's the metric you're interested in. Go to the sets browser, select a year and/or theme, and choose to sort by "Price per piece".
For 2023 eg., that yields the limited availability set 66747 Animal Play Pack with 486 pieces at a recommended retail price of $14.97, coming to only 3.1c per piece.
As you suspected, sets with lots of small parts can have an even lower price per piece. For example, set 41935 Lots of DOTS contains 1040 pieces (all 1x1 tiles of different shapes and colors) at a recommended retail price of $19.99, coming to only 1.9c per piece.


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I need help identifying vintage knock off blocks
This may even be two sets. Vintage, without stamp that I can tell. I’m pretty sure some of them have numbers under them. I have included a picture.

@ashley_johnson Can you please take another picture showing one block next to a ruler? Right now it's a bit hard to judge the size of the blocks.

Possibly related to https://bricks.stackexchange.com/questions/9880/can-someone-identify-this-brick

If you add the picture suggested by @IvanSanchez, please include a close-up of both the top and bottom side of one of the 2x4 bricks. A clear picture of the numbers you mention (or any other markings you can find) might also help.


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D11 42131 caterpillar
I have stared to build the above and I was half way through  point of inserting the connectors to the hub. I have tried all the ports and looking at the schematic plan on on page 169 and have followed the instructions to the letter the diagram and I can only get the blue connections to work in the hub. I have been trying to figure it out for 4 days now

Apologies with bad explanation above I should of said the only connectors  i have working is blue and green but cannot get the red and yellow connectors to show yellow and red as per the schematic plan above

You mean you expect hub make LED's light up in these exact colors? Based on this diagram, colors are used here to help you align each motor with correct location in hub. Are you running a test within the mobile app and it fails?

Hi Alex thanks for reaching out for me, I will take a couple of snap shots which may be easier than me explaining this issue if that’s ok with yourself

Hi Alex I look on my controller app  I have green and blue , ticked but I cannot seem to get yellow  and red ticked as it shows two crosses

Am I doing something fundamentally wrong ?

There have been quite a few questions with regards to 42131 set and LEGO Control+ app. Not sure how many of us here own this particular set to verify the issue. I would suspect the issue is with mobile app, but don't have anything to prove the statement.

Hi Alex is there a way I can send you a screen shot showing the issue i am facing at the moment, I am not sure if could forward this on to you

I have no means of helping with this particular issue, unfortunately. However, you can also try reaching out to LEGO Customer Service to address your issue. If it happens you find the solution this way please make sure to return here and post your solution as an answer to this question.

Hi Alex I contacted Lego regarding the issue was facing and they gave me some trouble shooting options but when I tried to copy these to send to you I cannot add the comments due to how much I can send to you because I have used more characters

If the troubleshooting suggested by LEGO Customer Service proved to be helpful you can post these details not as comment, but as an answer in a field below "comments" section.


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DUPLO cargo train 10875 blue action brick has no effect
I bought my daughter Cargo Train 10875 and it all works OK with one exception—the blue action brick has no effect. The other action bricks all have some noticeable effect.
I asked LEGO to send me a replacement blue action brick, and they did, but the new brick doesn't have any effect either.
Has anyone else had this problem? I'm wondering if the train itself is defective.

Does this answer your question? How do the DUPLO Action Bricks work?

Try cleaning the light sensor on the bottom of the locomotive.

Well, if sensor cleaning does not change behaviour for blue colored action brick I would suggest getting in touch with LEGO Customer Service again asking for locomotive base replacement. It might be that the unit itself has some issues.

I cleaned the light sensor on the bottom of the locomotive, but it made no difference. I will contact LEGO about replacing the locomotive.

It turns out the locomotive unit itself must have been faulty. I returned the entire set for a full refund and ordered a new one, and the locomotive from the new set performs the expected action when it passes over the blue brick.
I’m glad I went to the effort because the action triggered by the blue brick is probably the most interesting of all of them.


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How to compare 2 custom lists of lego details?
I have a .lxf file for MOC. With Bricklink Studio I can create a list of details for it.
In Rebrickable I have a list of all parts that I own. Do we have a way to get somehow a list a details for this MOC that I do not own?
Rebrickable has this feature for sets and MOCs, but I can't find an option for custom lists.

First you need to create a Custom list on Rebrickable with contents of LXF file you got from Stud.io. Then you go to Compare sets where you have an option to compare a MOC vs your Custom List. You can find needed MOC by either its MOC ID or by its name in "Set Num" field. Custom List can be selected from drop-down menu.


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Best way to store baseplates
I recently acquired a large number of 32×32 baseplates (including the now rare tan ones) and old-style road plates that are no longer in their original packaging, but are still pristine.
What's a good (hopefully not too costly) way to store a bunch of baseplates? Currently, I just have them stacked in a cabinet, but I am sure they might get scratched if I keep them that way? Should I be sandwiching something between baseplates if I keep them in a pile? (Of course, a pile/stack makes it difficult to extract plates near the bottom, so better ideas are most welcome.)

I don't think you need such an extra care of the baseplates. I have a couple of used and abused baseplates with broken corners (from used bricks haul) and they still work. Yes, underside is scratched heavily, but the studs on top still hold the bricks.
My only suggestion would be - whatever you do, make sure baseplates do not bend while stored. Slightly bent baseplates still will be usable for your creations (like a buildings), however flat applications may no longer be flat.
Another observation I have is that even though baseplates do not have stud holes underside they still kind of "lock" when placed on top of each other and don't move too much. So I make use of that. Storing them vertically in a deep box proves helpful:

easy to "lock" so they don't slide too much;
easy to locate particular color/type you need;
easy to remove without significant scratching (personally, don't consider them scratching this way);
easy to transfer large numbers as single item/box.

Your suggestion to store baseplates vertically gave me an idea: since the four types of roadplates are all the same color, if I store them vertically, I can separate the different kinds with folder tabs (appropriately labeled) so I wouldn't have to rummage so much.

Also, your mention of broken corners reminded me of my old 48×48 gray baseplates (acquired way early in childhood); those always seemed to be more fragile than the smaller plates.

@高砂健吾 When storing them vertically, make sure they are packed tight together so they stay vertical. If you don't they will gradually bent/warp a little. I personally would rather stack them horizontally, like Alex says. I also have a fair number of space base-plates (with craters). I stack these as well, making sure I only stack plates with identical protrusions on top of each other (but I usually place flat plates below them on the bottom of the stack to save some space).


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How to connect to SPIKE Prime Hub via Bluetooth Web API and send code?
I am trying to go under the hood of the Bluetooth connectivity of the SPIKE Prime Hub as a demo for some kids. I managed to figure out how to use the Bluetooth Web API to connect to a Bluetooth device. However, after this I don't know how I can send Python code to the hub to be run.
Note that I am aware of libraries like Pybricks that do this, and that's an amazing library. I am doing this more for educational purposes. My understanding is that the LEGO Education SPIKE web app does this as well, and was just trying to implement a very basic version.

There is information on the BLE wireless protocol used by LEGO available. It might be overwhelming but maybe it can help you.


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Which LEGO part can build this?

This is moko’s MOC mech, I want to know what the part highlighted within the blue circle is. I think it’s not 3638...

Neither Brickset nor Bricklink knows of a part with number 3638, so it's unclear what you do not think it is. But I believe it's 3937 Hinge Brick 1 x 2 Base + 3938 Hinge Brick 1 x 2 Top Plate.

Yes, seems like it. Notice that it looks as if there is a notch in the side wall of the part - but I believe this notch is a consequence of this part + another brick right next to it. What is the other brick isn't clear but it should be something with a bit smaller height.

Just 1/2 a circle? Mudguard

There are no half-circles in the blue circle on the picture, so that's not what the question is about, but I guess the blue part around the yellow part in the bottom left of the picture is a mudguard.

It looks like a 2x2 top plate rather than a 1x2 to me, though that's nit-picking: 2x2 link

As Henrik supports the community’s fine answer indicates, this is definitely 3937 Hinge Brick 1×2 Base + 3938 Hinge Brick 1×2 Top Plate, with both parts in white. The fact that these parts, as well as all the bricks around it, are white, and the photo is blurry and somewhat overexposed (at least for seeing details in all that white), makes this somewhat more difficult to see than it should be, so I traced out the 3937 piece in the photo to make it easier to see:

Note that this is in a SNOT configuration, with the base connected to studs that are above and behind it, pointed down and to the front of the model. This also matches the blocks on the top of the crest, which are pointing the same way. It may be easier to see the orientation of this section by looking at the end of that column, which is a 54200  Slope 30 1 x 1 x 2/3, a.k.a. the “cheese slope”. That’s pretty clearly visible in the photo, (mostly) filling in the gap that would otherwise exist in the corner (and preventing the 3937+3938 hinge from opening fully). It’s not clear from the photo what pieces were used to achieve this orientation; there are several options.


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How many original LEGO wooden ducks are left?
I've been trying to learn about the Wooden Pull-Along Duck with Long Bill

The only one I can see is owned by the LEGO Group themselves and is kept in the LEGO House.
Many were made in the 1930s and there should be a few still around, but I can't find any.
Is there any public collection which has one? Or an auction in which one was sold?

The only one I have ever seen was for sale in a car-booth sale in Bad Bramstedt (just north of Hamburg in Germany) in summer 2003. If I had known at the time what it was, I would have offered a lot more for it than the 1 EURO it was priced at....

@Tonny that's nearly as painful as doing the math on how much something cost me in Bitcoin when I bought it in 2013.

@tonny that's quite the miss! Although, the fact that it can crop up like that makes it all the stranger that it is so impossible to find them.

The problem is that whoever knows what they have will not part from it (at least presumably not on Bricklink), and those who don't know that their old wooden duck toy is actually an invaluable LEGO relic - well, they won't try to sell it or learn more about it.

@zovits Exactly that. People who know what it is will cash in or keep it as an investment. And those that don't know won't see any value and would sell it for peanuts or just throw/give it away. Finding one for sale cheaply... More chance to win the lottery than it ever happening to me a 2nd time.

Have you contacted Lego customer service? They are usually quite helpful.

@JenserCube I have, they didn't know of any Lego duck except the one in the Lego House

Answering the question in your bounty edit ("I'm looking for any public case of an original wooden duck being owned or sold"):
Here is a forum entry by someone in the USA who managed to buy one in 2016 from Denmark for 100$
This video is a review of the wooden duck, with the story of how it was acquired: "running a price of several thousand dollars".


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In Studio, when switching color filter to "Available colors in BrickLink" all bricks have no color available and pricing is missing
As soon as I switch color filter to "Available colors in BrickLink" all bricks have no color available - even what I assume are the most common brick types... I also appear to receive no pricing information for any brick! This must be some kind of error of correct live information feeding into the application - do you know how I can check and I solve this?
This is on BrickLink Studio version 2.23.12 (1)

Your question is missing some important information that would be useful for being able to answer it. I'm presuming you are using BrickLink Studio, but you should make sure to state that as well as the version (From the Help menu, select About Studio) to make sure that people will be able to answer accurately.


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What is this strange and possibly old white 2x4 brick?
I've got 6 or 8 white 2x4 bricks. But they seem to be rather old as there is a "Pat. Pending" on it and also a "C5".
They also have one small hole on each of its sides (but none on top) and the interior is transparent.
Does anyone know from which set this comes?

This is Brick, Modified 2 x 4 with Wheels Holder, Trans-Clear Bottom. White colored version was included in 77 sets.

...and they go together with wheels like these.

@noughtnaut this brick is not limited to wheels like these. There are more elements that go together.

Yup. That was intended merely as an example for people who've never seen this brick before.


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Please identify yellow car-like set
I bought a bag of Lego. And one piece was not taken apart fully. Seems like a yellow car. Maybe from Technic series, but not sure. Could be older, like 2009-2014.

It is Cool Cruiser (5767) from 2011.


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Set Identification: 2017 set, 4 bags
Can anyone help identify which set these bags come from?

Based on the 60608 window shutter and the 8x8 plate in azure, this is set 11015 "Around the world".

Unfortunetly, the pieces are different

@Denyria Care to elaborate? I gave a cursory look at the parts list for set 11015 and it seems to contain the parts visible in your photograph, at least the two bigger bags.


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What color is this round plate?
I got a bunch of used LEGO bricks from a friend. The bricks were made sometime between 2002 and 2016 when I was not playing with LEGO. I don’t know what set it came from and I can’t figure out what color it is. The square plate is “Dark Turquoise” based on the brick separator being available in that color. This is a darker version of “Dark Turquoise”.
Edited: Thanks for the help. This is a heavily but uniformly discolored blue brick. A chip taken out of it reveals a color of plastic much closer to blue under the surface.

Additional photos:

As @SanderDeDycker has mentioned try taking another picture with few more pieces in (known) shades of blue and green. Perhaps also add Red and Yellow for contrast. And see if you can take a picture with light source being on the top.

I hav tried several times to make a link into a picture and keep coming up short. I took a picture with more blue bricks of various colors. I thought there was a color I was missing. Based on this conversation and my inability to find any other pieces in this color, it appears Lego let something miss-colored into the wild.

I'd say this is Blue colored element that has yellowed over time. You can see some plastic has broken of round plate revealing the inside plastic and it appears to be close to usual Blue color.

The part is called Plate, Round 2 x 2 with Axle Hole (x Shape) and is known to exist in sets in 13 colors (quite more are for sale though). Based on this list and the color photos of all known blue hues, I'd guess it is a blue (Bricklink, with the official LEGO palette "23 Bright Blue") one - maybe with quite extreme color variation caused by molding errors or white balance during photography: the dark turquoise is a lot darker here as over at Brickset as well. The release years of the sets it was available in (2005-2010) do indeed match the given timeframe.
Is the background a plain white sheet of paper? Calibrating the white balance of the image to that known value might bring the colors of the photo closer to reality.
Can you say for sure that it came from an official set and not from a custom order or Pick-a-Brick batch? That would help reduce the list of possible colors as well.

Yes it is a white piece of paper. I got the brick in a large plastic tub of many bricks. I can say nothing about where it came from. Can one order custom colors of bricks from Lego?

"Custom" as in "colors that normally do exist but were not released with that piece design": yes, but not "custom" as in "please mix this RGB/CYMK/Pantone/RAL/... color for me". See https://www.lego.com/en-de/pick-and-build/pick-a-brick and https://brickarchitect.com/lugbulk/ for two very different ways of doing this.

Keeping in mind Blue version of this round plate type was available between 2006 and 2010 (according to Bricklink) this could also be heavily "yellowed" Blue colored piece. Which makes it appear more green-ish.

I don’t think this is a blue piece nor that it is “yellowed”. For the last 5 years it has been floating around my lego bin sandwiched between two other round plates. If it were yellowed I would expect the color change to be uneven.

@TroyCongdon : if you have a confirmed blue piece that you can add to the picture, maybe that'll help.

A chip was removed from the underside of the brick. It shows a different, bluer color under the surface. This is a discolored blue brick. Thanks to all who contributed.


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Pieces Differ in Color/Shape from Diagrams and are Missing Lego Writing
Ferrari 488 GTE (42125) is my first Lego technic set and I’ve noticed that some pieces differ in the shade of the red/maybe even the type of plastic and also don’t match the diagrams and pictures from other folks’ assemblies posted on the Lego.com. Is this a counterfeit concern and, overall, does this happen a lot with Lego technic as it does seem to be damaging the look?

The color variation is relatively normal, color matching is difficult to begin with, but especially so with injection-molded parts. FWIW, the variance seen in your photo is not too horrible as far as LEGO parts go, and you may have some success hiding it in this case by using lighting with a lower color temperature (for example, low-wattage incandescent lamps instead of LEDs or CFLs) simply because of how that affects perception of reds and oranges.

According to Bricklink, the 42125 should contain 4 pieces of Technic, Axle and Pin Connector Perpendicular Double Split, which looks like the one the instructions show:

However, it has a mold variant* called Technic, Axle and Pin Connector Perpendicular Double Split, Reinforced Sides, which looks like the one you have:

Based on this, I'd say your set is probably authentic, just got parts from a different manufacturing batch due to mold transition or surplus pieces.
The occasional color variance between pieces in the same official set that are supposed to be the same hue is known for a long time, that doesn't indicate a counterfeit item.
If you want to be sure, you can consider how you have acquired this particular set: on one end of the spectrum, buying directly from LEGO.com 100% nets you an authentic one. On the other end, buying for a tenth of the official price from a noname pop-up webshop will almost guaranteed to be a knockoff. Other retailers and private sales occupy some position between these two.
You can also look for LEGO markings, which should be present on most pieces. If your set was new and sealed in a box, and you've found LEGO marked pieces, you can rest assured it is an original one.
Or you can contact LEGO directly to ask if that mold variant has ever been put into an official set of this model.
*Edit: a mold variant is a piece that has largely the same functionality, maybe with minor changes in possibilities or strength. See this article for several examples.

It would probably be worth briefly explaining what a “mold variant” is. It might well be self-explanatory for many readers, but just in case…

What really bothers me is how visible the dot left from the manufacturing process is… Right on top and the original piece seemed flawless at the angle

Yeah, the mark definitely has me wondering if they could have injected from the other side which would normally be at least semi-concealed by the axle running through the part.

It is also probably worth mentioning that while many color variations are definitely well known, a visible spot like that is usually considered a production flaw and is worth reporting as a “broken” part.

@NathanStohlmann If, by "spot" you mean the white dots on the circled parts - those are known artifacts of the injection molding process and not grounds for part replacement. But if you mean "visible spot" as in "location of the part in the finished model that can be seen", then yes, you're right.


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Help identify grey animal (?)
So I have this half assembled grey piece.
My guess would be an animal, maybe from Ninjago series, or AT walker from Star Wars, but unlikely.
Timeline maybe from 2015 upwards.
Google photo search failed to be of help.

It is Erumpent creature from LEGO® Fantastic Beasts™ Newt's Case of Magical Creatures (75952) set.

Fantastic, thank you!


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Need help identifying two unopened bags of Lego
We were cleaning out a drawer in my son’s room, and we found two unopened bags of Lego. We don’t know what sets they are from. Bag 2 has a brown oar and a black bat (like the animal)in it. Can anyone help us figure it out? Thank you so much!

Does this answer your question? How can I identify a set based on one or more original sealed bags?

Based on the parts
Black Bar 1.2L with Top Stud and 4 Bar Arms Up (Palm Tree Top)
and
Light Bluish Gray Wedge 4 x 4 (Slope 18 Corner)
these bags can only come from
40597 Scary Pirate Island


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Identify parts I found in some kind of Star Wars set
I found a ziplock bag with these parts in a drawer. I don’t know if it’s a full set or part of another set, but I see a lightsaber handle and a ship control panel in there.

A search for sets containing both 30387 brick 1 x 4 with hinges at both sides and 2 x 4 tile in yellow quickly yields set 75172 "Y-wing starfighter":

Thank you so much! It looks like it is just the loading trailer from my son’s y-wing kit. Appreciate you figuring it out!


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Bugatti Chiron built and everything worked - now pistons don’t move. What could cause this?
Built the Bugatti Chiron and initially everything worked. With the shifter in "drive" the wheels turned and the pistons moved, in neutral the wheels moved but the pistons didn’t. The reverse gear also moved the pistons. The paddles worked and changed the gearing. But now the wheels still move together, but the pistons don't move.

Hi Kelvin and welcome to Bricks.SE! Thank you for the detailed description of the issue, I hope you'll receive assistance here. Meanwhile, please check out the [help] pages and take the [tour] to learn more about this community and how things work here.

The obvious thing to clarify would be what happened between the "used to work" and "now it doesn't work" states. Was the model dropped, modified, completed, just sitting on a shelf, etc? Or to diagnose the issue yourself, you might try to follow the motion of the wheels along the drivetrain to see if the problem can be constrained to the wheels, transmission, engine or the connections between them.

The model hasnot been dropped or modified. When working the paddles changed the gears and the pistons faster or slower, depending on the gear shift. I have tried to follow the wheels alon the drive train and as a far as i can see they are connected up correctly.  I can see the the gear leaver moving the gray selector but I am not sure that the  blue and red gears are moving correct.  I can see the white gear moving correctly, whether it is in D, N or R.   It seems that the connection to engine drive shaft is not working?

Based on the comments (the rotation of the wheels is confirmedly transferred via the DNR selector and the transmission), it seems likely (and is basically the only possibility left) that the connection between the transmission and the engine is at fault. To check this, take a look at the black axle connector signified by the uppermost white arrow at this step:

If it came loose, there might not be a mechanical link that would transfer motion to the pistons.


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How can I convert EV3 Lab code to the new EV3 Classroom?
I have been running a robotics club at our local school for ~10 years, and just starting up again after covid. We are still using all our old EV3 kits, which work fine, but now have new laptops running the new (Scratch-like) EV3 Classroom coding environment. But the robot instructions here are all based on the old system (EV3 Labs). Is there a way to convert the old block-based code to the current Scratch-based code?


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How to identify which Millennium Falcon set I have?
I bought a bundle of Lego from someone. She said that included among it was a Millennium Falcon. I have separated a lot of grey and obvious parts, but now I have discovered that I don't actually know what set it is. How can I find out?

Unless you have 10 to 11 kilos of bricks in mostly greys you can exclude the UCS Falcon right from the start.

Clear pictures of (well lit) uncommon parts could greatly enhance your question.

Howdy Rebecca.  Including some pictures for this would make it a lot easier for the folks on this site to help you.  You might be surprised at what we can figure out with a little more information.

According to Brick Land the Millennium Falcon has appeared in over 25 sets. So there are several different possibilities. You can look up the sets on a page such as BrickLink to see which parts are in which sets. Then you can find the rare / unique bricks and compare with the bricks you have.

Couple of special pieces to look for: Some cone- or circle-shaped piece(s) that could be (part off) the Falcon's cockpit. And don't forget mini-figs. A lot of the Falcon sets had some (varying) mini-figs that can pin it down to a specific set.


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Type of Battery connector of Spike Prime & essential Hub
What is the type of the 3-pin connector used to connect the Spike Prime Hub or Spike Essential Hub to the rechargeable battery? It consists of 3 pins and has a male and a female side.
I have issues in charging the battery of the Spike essential Hub and want to check if the problem is with the battery or with the Hub.

If you're talking about this connector:

then I don't think there's a name for it - besides "3 pin connector (male/female)".
If you want to diagnose it, just attach pins, hooks or clamps to the appropriate contacts, as jncraton did here.


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Identify part for a build aggg stuck
The part is shown in the picture.  Fingers crossed.

That's part 2436 "Bracket 1x2 - 1x4".

Thank you!  cheers!

@Copmedic Please see the following article: What should I do when someone answers my question?.


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Help me identify set so we can get instructions

We found this LEGO set, but we don’t have instructions or set number.
Is there any way to identify what is the set?

It might be that these bags are from different sets. Could you take pictures of each bag individually and edit your answer to include them please.

Does this answer your question? How can I identify a set based on one or more original sealed bags?

The numbered bags I immediately recognise as part of the BOOST Creative ToolBox The unnumbered bag also seems to contain parts of the Boost set in addition to a couple of elements that got mixed in between I think.
I think the Boost set was a very interesting robotics set that unfortunately was underappreciated and hence phased out way too soon.

This is 17101 "BOOST creative toolbox".

This is based on some parts in bag 8:

5x1 rounded technic plate with axle hole, in white, at least three occurrences
Bracket 1x2 to 1x2, in orange, at least six occurrences
2x1x2/3 curved slope, in dark azure, at least six occurrences

Bag 7 has to be the tank treads, bag 9 contains the plate for the basketball hoop, bag 10 contains the trans-orange half-sphere.
The set also has two big solid 54mm x 30mm wheels, which are visible in the unmarked, closed-with-a-pink-hair-tie bag at the top.This leads me to think that the entire set has been repackaged (which befuddles me, since the original bags are flimsy as heck once torn open)


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Identifying two unopened bags with earth-toned pieces
I have two bags that I need some help identifying what set they are from. I bought a mixed lot without books and seem to be a few different sets so far. Would love some assistance with these two please.

The first bag can only be from 76208 The Goat Boat:

Since the piece 18910 Panel 3 x 4 x 3 Curved with Double Clip Hinge has only ever appeared in Dark Tan color in this single set.

The Dark Tan Door, Frame 1 x 4 x 6 with 2 Holes on Top and Bottom only reinforces this.

But the second bag is from a different set, found by searching for the parts

Wedge, Plate 2 x 2 Cut Corner (at least 2)
Plate, Modified 2 x 2 with Bar Frame Octagonal, Reinforced, Completely Round Studs
Hinge Cylinder 1 x 2 Locking with 1 Finger and Axle Hole on Ends with Slots (at least 5)

This search gives two results, but the presence of the minifigure Tobias Beckett, specifically the back of his jacket  confirms it as 75215 Cloud-Rider Swoop Bikes

Absolutely is! Thank you! Appreciate your help

@Legofan You're certainly welcome! Feel free to take the [tour] and read the [help] to learn What should I do when someone answers my question? :)


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Why doesn't this Technic bar fit?

Why doesn't this yellow Technic bar fit?

Looking at the holes of the horizontal bars at the right edge of your picture, it's easy to see that they are not aligned directly above each other. There's no reason to assume anything would fit that - and as Joost's answer shows, if you do align those bars it does fit (but the distance between the horizontal bars becomes "weird")

Since this is CAD, I think the underlying issue is that the beams are not placed at a 45° angle. Start with that (instead of starting with the placing of the parallel beams), and everything shall fit.

As Joost calculates the vertical distance the yellow bar spans as different from the horizontal distance it covers, the angle it creates with the horizontal bars can't be 45 degrees (in a configuration where it fits.

It will fit, see photo. But you have to keep in mind that the distance between the two horizontal beams is not 4 units but will be sqrt(6^2 - 4 ^2) (Pythagoras), or ~4.47 units (the length is the distance between the holes, so 5 holes is the length of 4 units).
In the photo you will see that there is a gap of around half a stud between the brown 2x4 bricks.

And if you do want a right-angled triangle where the spacing between the beams is tidy so it joins up. it won't be 45°-45°-90°. Instead ignore the angles and pick a Pythagorean triple to suit.  In this case a gap of 3 units horizontally and 5 on the diagonal will put the beams exactly 4 units apart (3,4,5, triple).  The next triple is (5, 12 13) which isn't as useful.


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Trying to identify pieces from an image
I'm trying to recreate this MOC but I'm having trouble identifying some parts just from the image.
1.) Can you tell me what part the 3 rear legs on each side are?
2.) What are the brown and beige pieces that connect at the end of its claws? The brown one looks like it has a clip on the bottom and the beige piece looks like it has a bar handle but I'm not too sure.
I figured out all other pieces but I'm not 100% sure about what is used for the butt so I would be happy to get some ideas, but it's not necessary.

The thorax is built using Reddish Brown Slope, Curved 2 x 2 x 2/3 with 2 Studs and Curved Sides pieces.

Rock and Stone brother!

The back legs consist of the following pieces:

53451 Barb / Claw / Horn / Tooth - Small
98313 Arm Mechanical, Exo-Force / Bionicle, Thick Support
92692 Plate, Modified 1 x 2 with Angled Bar Handles on Side

As for the front claw connectors, I'm not 100% sure, but it could be 25893 Plate, Round 1 x 1 with Bar Handle on Short Stem. I don't know if that piece is available in that color, though.

ah nice. i found the calw pretty quick but couldnt find the arm. thanks

@Choty Please see the following article: What should I do when someone answers my question?.

i can work with that. thanks :)


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Is there a good alternative for Lego elastic/rubber bands?
My son has got a few sets which include elastic bands, for suspension etc. however these seem to break and/or get lost. Is there a good alternative? Or is it best to just order them from Bricklink?

When I search for this before asking, I should have used the term "rubber band" rather than "elastic band", because the question has already be answered in detail here: https://bricks.stackexchange.com/questions/14659/procuring-alternative-rubber-bands?rq=1

Seeing that the bands are quite cheap on Bricklink, the best option is to buy original ones. They are guaranteed to have the proper dimensions, elasticity and friction. Maybe buy more to have spares and avoid paying for shipping multiple times when they break.
But in the end they are just plain rubber bands, so for most applications you can use any elastic you might happen to have at hand, as long as the properties are in the same ballpark.


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Is there any way to use electric pieces in Stud.io?

Also is the stack exchange meant for digital LEGO editors like Stud.io?

Hi "Technic Axlerod" and welcome to Bricks.SE! Please take the [tour] and check out the [help] pages to learn more about what questions are on topic in this StackExchange site - spoiler alert: your question is absolutely on topic ;) Have fun and play well!


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Need total content in Aragog's Lair, set 75950
Looking for info about Aragogs Lair, set #75950. I'm looking for the list of total parts for this set. I have 3 unopened bags with no numbers on them but they go to this playset - that's all I been able to find out. I was hoping to find out of all the total bags in the set and all contents in the box.

https://www.bricklink.com/catalogItemInv.asp?S=75950-1

Hi Robert and welcome to Bricks.SE! I've taken the liberty to edit your question to be more readable - feel free to correct anything contrary to your intention. You're also welcome to browse the [help] or take the [tour] to learn more about this site, the community that's running it and the rules or customs of contributing here. Play well!

@IvanSanchez That comment should be an answer, since this is exactly what Robert is looking for.

Both Bricklink and Rebrickable have lists of parts included within this set. I am not sure how you have identified which set your elements belong to, but based on this YouTube video (at 00:51) three bags are all this set has inside.


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Which sets contain the Harry Potter Phoenix Fawkes mini figure?
The set 76402 "Dumbledores office" contains an underwhelming baby phoenix "Fawkes" figure which left me wondering if there are more beautiful phoenix minifigures available.
I found 71028-02 Dumbledore with Fawkes.
Is this Fawkes exclusive in 71028 or does it appear in other sets as well?

Looking at the parts list for set 76402, I believe you're referring to part 41835pb01 "Small Bird with Black Eyes and Bright Light Orange Beak Pattern":

At the time of this writing, that part appears in 24 sets in white, in 18 sets in blue (rather "dark azure"), and in 8 sets in red.

The collectible minifig you refer to is set solhp2-2. It contains part bb1155pb01 "Phoenix with Black Beak and Bright Light Orange Face and Chest Pattern (HP Fawkes)":

This appears in two sets: the aforementioned collectible minifig and set 76394 "Fawkes, Dumbledore’s Phoenix":

It could be worth mentioning the older version from 4730 Chamber of Secrets


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Building set 9396 Rescue Helicopter
I found an old box with set 9396 “Rescue Helicopter”. I have one problem: If I build the two double wheels at the back according to the instructions, they seem stuck and the wheels cannot be lowered. I found a way to change the design slightly and they move up and down just fine.
Question: If you have the set, am I doing something wrong? Or are there instructions that just don’t work correctly?
The problem are the light gray, yellow, dark grey parts from left to right. According to the instructions they go at some weird angle, I built them side by side.

I've built this model many years ago and I had no issue when following the instructions exactly. This is a great model, with 4 motorized functions (assuming you put in the motor) with the landing gear extending and retracting being one of them (front and back wheels simultaneously). I cannot imagine this working correctly if you've built it like you've shown.


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What Lego set does this bag belong to
Not sure what Lego set this bag is from can anyone help.

Hi Tina! We'd gladly help, but your question lacks any details or photos. Please edit to add more information and we'll do our best. Welcome to Bricks.SE :)


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How to connect NXT brick to EV3 programming software for mac (2024)
I have an NXT brick (most likely from 2006 based on a newspaper clipping I found in the box) that I want to program the NXT brick with the EV3 programming software (the newer version of the EV3 app for Windows 10+ and later mac versions). I read online that you could do this, but for some reason the EV3 software isn't recognizing the NXT brick that I have plugged in. Using macOS 12.7 and NXT screen is dead like a lot of NXTs.