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What's this Colour?
Blue on the left, unknown in the middle, dark turquoise on the right.
It's got a slightly greener tint than dark blue. Do you know if they change the color over time? It's like this on the entire brick, so I assume it's not faded.
I've tried every possible color on Bricklink and a couple color guides, I'm lost.

The color of the 2x4 plate and 1x2 jumpers in the photo appears to be regular Dark Blue:

The greenish tint you mention is likely discoloration.  Here is an example of a discolored regular blue piece (right) next to a fairly new regular blue piece (left) for comparison:

How uniform or consistent the discoloraton is depends on the cause and/or whether the piece was assembled when it occurred.

I should have included that for comparison, but unfortunately its not.
Its got a slightly greener tint than dark blue. Do you know if they change the color over time? Its like this on the entire brick, so I assume its not faded.

@Zach Turley - Based on my experience, blues brick of all shades can turn a dingy greenish color with age, sunlight or excessive heat. The shade of green, of course, depends on the shade of blue.  I have just recently treated some discolored dark blue bricks (among many others) with hydrogen peroxide, heat and a fluorescent light with very good results.  There are a variety of methods using hydrogen peroxide to restore plastic color. A quick Google search will help you find instructions if you're interested.

Greenish accent on blue bricks appear due to so called "yellowing" process. It happens a lot with older bricks. So they get more of yellow/brown tint over time. I do believe the color you are looking at is Dark Blue [BL]. It is just bricks got yellowed.

@JohnnyB Thank you for the update and great answer.  I didn't realize that heat/age would be another factor instead of just sunlight: the bottoms are identical in color to the top, so I believed discoloration was not the case here.


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Can you help me identify this set?
I have this lone bag, and I think it contains a full vehicle, but it's from a bigger set, I believe, because of the number 2. Anyone know what set? I need instructions.
(Dear Lego, please put set numbers on bags!)
Thanks for your help!

+1 Just because you asked TLG to put set numbers on the bags. I totally agree with that.

This bag is part of Set 76015-1 from 2014

Ultimate Spider-Man,
Doc Ock Truck Heist

source: Stack Exchange

license: Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/

sort: votes


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Can you help me identify this set? (Emergency vehicles maybe?)
Bags are numbered 1-3. It looks like it maybe is some sort of emergency vehicle set? Bag 3 looks like a fire truck and bag 1 maybe a police car?
Thank you!

Looks like Set# 60060-1 Auto Transporter.

all_licenses: Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/


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Why isn't the new LEGO CV joint available on Bricklink or Brickowl?
In the new 4x4 X-treme Off-Roader set 42099 there are 2 new, sturdier CV joint pieces that I would like to have. If I search for 42099 on Bricklink I don't see a list of pieces included in the set. I usually use a website called "Brickowl" (https://www.brickowl.com/) and there is a button that reads "inventory" so I can see all the pieces that come with the set. There doesn't seem to be such a button on Bricklink and on Brickowl I can't see the piece at all. Any info on why the CV is not there or how to access the inventory on Bricklink would be very much appreciated.

As Henrik stated, they are simply too new.  Lego shop has the set listed but with an incomplete parts inventory at the time of this answer.  One additional problem I found is that they have even failed to list one of the two parts necessary to complete this joint in the instruction manual itself. I found this information on the review by Huw on Brickset (part 1);

"The light grey part is element number 6262966. The dark grey part is not included in the inventory at the back of the instructions for some reason."

Also on a Youtube video by Sariel linked in the Brickset review (part 2), right about the 3:00 mark:
https://youtu.be/h7NkzWooPvk

The sellers on bricklink/brickowl doesn't have ways to get elements before they become generally available.
As 42099 is brand new, pieces that are (currently) unique to that set probably hasn't made it to those sites yet. Have some patience, they will likely be there shortly.
Those sites rely on users submitting inventories so until somebody submits one, there won't be one (bricklink actually shows: "Inventory Pending Approval", so it probably won't be long).

As the one who provided the inventory for an unrelated set, 70825 Queen Watevra's Build Whatever Box!, another set that introduced brand new and (at the time) unique part molds, I can provide a firsthand answer on why this is.
On sites like BrickLink, all catalog items are user-provided data, and aren't automatically mined from LEGO or some other database (unlike Brickset, which does pull inventory data directly from LEGO). This means that if a set contains new elements, meaning any of

new prints,
new recolors of existing molds,
or new molds altogether,

then a user, preferably with a physical and complete copy of the set, must create requests to add these new elements to the BrickLink catalog as part of the process of inventorying the set. The process of adding an item involves determining the part ID by looking at the part itself, providing a photograph, and naming the part (often a BrickLink-specific name that's more meaningful than the official LEGO name).
As long as this is not yet done, the element will not be present on the BrickLink catalog. But for almost every set, eventually, someone will. It's only a matter of time.
The set I inventoried (70825), for example, contains four unique printed 1x4x3 bricks. This size of brick, whose part number according to the mold itself is 49311, first appeared only in this set at the beginning of 2019 and didn't start appearing in other sets until later that year. So I had to manually add four new parts to BrickLink with the number 49311 (and a suffix corresponding to each of the four prints) and wait for them to be approved by a catalog admin. The immediate next step is then adding the inventory of the entire set to the BrickLink catalog, although technically once a part itself is in the catalog it'll already be searchable by its part number.
Similarly, somebody with a copy of 42099 needs to examine (both parts of) the CV joint, provide appropriate names and images, submit a request to add it to the BrickLink catalog, and then inventory the entire set (not even LEGO has a complete inventory of it yet online according to Brickset, and that's on top of the unfortunate oversight in the instructions!) before you'll be able to find it through that set's inventory. As mentioned, this will eventually happen, so just sit tight.


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What is the longest 1×x brick ever released?
Out of curiosity: How long can a 1×x brick be?
When there are differences, I can think of the following categories:

Longest brick ever included in a regular Lego set
Longest brick ever available through other channels
Longest brick produced ever and visible on exhibits or other occasions, but unavailable to the public

EDIT: I am only interested in bricks made by LEGO, clone brands do not count.

Within bricks, do you include plates and tiles?

No, this is another question to be asked.

If you mean specifically Lego bricks, I'm pretty sure the 1x16 was/is the longest one made. Outside of the 1x? sized bricks, the longest plain shaped brick that I know of is part #30072 or #47122 at 24 studs long.  I don't know about other brands though.
Interesting related post:
What is the largest single LEGO piece?

Yes, I mean LEGO specifically, I'll add this to my question.

You didn't say anything about modified 1 x bricks.

This is Item 47978 and it is actually listed as a 2x24 brick, because of the added bit in the middle.

Ah, sneaky sneaky! ;)

Still technically a 2x though :P

This technic rack is 1x20 and is exactly 1 wide, no hanging out bits

https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=2428#T=C

Ah, nice find!  I wouldn't consider it a brick though being only 2/3 the height.

And no studs, unfortunately. +1 for this nice find, anyway.


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When was this Lego Adventurers T-Shirt produced?
When was this Lego Adventurers T-Shirt produced, and what is its model number?
The link says 1998. Is it correct? And where can I see the full design?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/352740773574

The shirt itself says 1998 on it, which coincides with the earliest known release of a set for that theme.

Here it is advertised on/in this 1999 January/February issue of Lego Mania magazine:

(https://www.flickr.com/photos/timlydy/22805063335/in/photostream/)
Given this was advertised at the very beginning of 1999, I think it is safe to assume that 1998 is the correct date for when the T-shirt and Magazine were printed. As for a model number, as Alexander O'Mara mentioned, it's listed on Bricklink as TS10.  I am not familiar with model numbers for Lego clothing, or if they even have them.  Bricklink has likely created their own format for designating a number to a particular design to simplify and clarify it's identification for buyers and sellers.

Year:
Probably 1999.
The Jungle Adventurers sets were released in 1999, and it seems likely that it would be released that same year. The full design below shows this is the Adventurers line it corresponds to.
There is a copyright on the design, which turns out to be 1998, but it likely predates the actual release which seems to have been in January 1999.
Model Number:
Unclear if it really has one.
BrickLink lists it as TS10.
Design:

(source: BrickLink)

(source: Grailed)

(source: Grailed)

These pictures are a great find, you should consider adding one in the form of an edit to the question for clarity.

I noticed you edited-in the 1998 info after I posted my answer :P


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What are the longest 1×x and 2×x plates and tiles ever released?
As a follow up of this question, here is the question for plates and tiles. What are the longest 1×x  and 2×x plates and tiles ever released by Lego?
When there are differences, I can think of the following categories:

Longest brick ever included in a regular Lego set
Longest brick ever available through other channels
Longest brick produced ever and visible on exhibits or other occasions, but unavailable to the public

I think it's going to be the 1x12 (#60479) and 2x16 (#4282) for regular Lego plates. The next longest plain-ish plate is probably the 6x28 (#5301, 5309, 4093), but these are thicker than typical plates.
For regular tiles I think the 1x8 (#4162) and 2x4 (#87079) are the longest. Outside of the 2x? they made some odd-ball Scala tiles at 3x6 (#6934) and 8 x 20 x 2/3 (#6923). Then there's the big 8x16 (#48288, 90498).
Does Modulex count since it's a Lego company product? There were Modulex 1x16 (MX1616M) plates and 2x12 (Mx1012) tiles. They also made a huge 22x60 (Mx2420D) plate according to Bricklink. Of course these pieces are only longer in terms of studs, because of the smaller scale, the Modulex bricks are not longer in millimeters/inches.  I'm curious if anyone has one of the 22x60 plates on hand to verify the bottom type?  Then of course there are baseplates, I guess I assumed you weren't referring to those.

Yes, Modulex counts, but it is good that it is placed in a category of its own.

Looking at mine, Modulex 1×16 a fraction smaller than system 1×10, as I can feel the step. So not the longest. Would have thought should be =, why not?

There is news (postdating the accepted answer): There are now tiles 2x6 (#69729) from LEGO available, e.g., in some Nintendo Super Mario sets.

2×16 from Guarded Inn 6067 (=10000). The floor uses a wider plate & this together.


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Identifying Vintage LEGO Instructions
I bought a box of old LEGO from the charity shop and the instruction booklet is missing the front page so, I’m struggling to find out information on it and how old it is! Can anyone help?!

The only set I could find that was even close to all of the pieces shown in the pictures was set #088-1 "Super Set". The bushes (#FTBushH) had me stumped. Glad Rin Rio-Oki found your answer. I still can't get over the picture showing a build that appears to be "black face". Very different times. (Edit: had posted wrong set number previously.)

No worries I was completely stumped too. It is that booklet however unfortunately there are lots of missing pages and it’s help together by cellotape!

@JohnnyB given the clue we were given that the tires only existed in 20 sets, I'm suspecting it might be #190-1 Farm Set.

@Doktor J - I know what you mean, I considered that set too.  The lack of "Homemaker" figures, red 2x4 45 slopes, and 60's style bushes had me convinced it wasn't the correct set.  The #715a 12 stud wheel with cam in set #088-1 is nearly identical and works perfectly fine with the 2x4 wheel holders.  Given the book in question likely features a variety of sets, I'm glad Rin Rio-Oki found the answer or I'd probably still be looking ;)

These are instructions from "LEGO Books - Idea Book #1 or 221", that was released in 1973.
YouTuber BrickTsar uploaded his entire childhood book HERE.

Similar to the LEGO Idea books I had as a kid in the late 80's, these types of books were made with multiple sets in mind.
So, there isn't a focus on one specific set. The focus was you nagging your parents on what was vital for your next birthday.

What a wonderful video! Nice find and great answer! :)

The big red wheel on the blue tractor was included in sets 1963-1975: Wheel Old with 12 Studs. There are only a twenty sets the big wheel appeared in, so you can look through the page linked above and see which set is the best match. My guess that it is one of the creative boxes with lots of bricks and alternate builds.

I’ve just found two of those wheels! Are they rare?

They only appeared in 20 sets and they are very old, so I would say yes, they are rare. Nice find! :)

I have this book, also found it on lego.brickinstructions.com:

There is no "No.1" on mine. I also have an earlier Ideas book, so this not the first one.

Lego has played fast and loose with numbering over the years.


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3x3 black Technic bracket piece needs identifying
I need some of this part but I’m struggling to find any sets they came in:

BrickLink calls it Technic, Pin Connector Toggle Joint Smooth Double with Axle and Pin Holes.

It comes in a number of sets listed here.

Here is some detail of the sets containing the part listed in order of year released (newest first). The green highlighted sets are currently still available on Lego Shop.com (US) at the time of this answer:

Since most sets didn't/don't come with very many of this piece, you're best bet is probably sourcing them from Bricklink or somewhere similar. They're about .20 cents (USD) or less on Bricklink.
They are also available for purchase individually at Lego Shop.com for .42 cents (USD):
https://www.lego.com/en-us/service/replacementparts/sale

I think a list of links might be more-useful than an image. Good point on the buying advice though!

Because I don't know the age, language comprehension, or experience level of the people asking the questions, I try to focus on clarity.  Links are absolutely useful, but also susceptible to breaking.  I try to present an answer that can stand on it's own if the link(s) fail.  I also feel that posting a line or two of just links is lazy and not much better than "one line" answers. I am still new here and would appreciate any constructive criticism from veterans such as yourself.  I am interested in contributing here without "stepping on toes".


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Identification of vintage sloping window piece
I'm trying to identify the yellow one, the red 60598 ones are for reference.

This is definitely Lego, it is written in the hollow studs. It does not have a part number underneath, only an 01 and a separate 3. I can’t find it in any of the usual databases.
The yellow I’m trying to identify is 1x4 at the base, 3 bricks tall, leans back by on row at the top but is slightly wider than 4 studs at the top approx 4.5 so the overall dimensions are 2 x 4.5 x 3.

Looks like a LEGO Fabuland windscreen...

On the hint from Uli I was able to find it:

(All credit to Uli for the find :)

Must be

Fabuland Front Window Squared Small, Part x652 on peeron.com

(image source peeron.com)

We must have posted at nearly the same time.  You didn't post an answer after about 10 minutes so I ran with your hunch. Nice find, I had no idea this existed.

@JohnnyB photo finish in fact : ) couldn't find it on bricklink in time, that's why I checked peeron, too. took me some minutes...

It's called "Fabuland Window Squared Small", with part number fabai1 on bricklink.

Looks like part 4447 window 4x4x3 Roof.

It does look like it, but part# 4447 has squared corners and indents/holes for glass. The part in the picture has rounded inner edges and no indents/holes.

And this is not that bit wider at the top.


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How is this kind of structure made?
Recently I found a MOC made by Headzsets from Instagram, in particular this interesting structure from his EVA work. Here is a picture of his structure:

(https://www.instagram.com/p/BtCymDRHJx6/)
How does he have two 1 x 1 x 2/3 slopes like this? Are there any sets with this kind of structure that I can buy on the market so I can learn this building technique?

Just to add a little to the answer by TheBrickBlogger, the blue piece holding the purple 1x1 slope is likely this one:

Here is a really simple example of one of the many ways this can be accomplished:

The hollow stud allows positioning to be "jumped". Hope this is helpful :)

Thanks JohnnyB.

How can I add two answer as “answer”? Yours and brickblogger’s answers are both very helpful

@Tasca Qiu - You can't choose more than one.  Normally it would just come down to whichever answer you feel helped you the most.  If you feel more than one answer is eligible for "correct", then choosing the answer posted first would be more ethical in my opinion.

The black cheese-slope is attached to the stud below, and the purple cheese-slope is attached to the upside-down stud above it. The two cheese slopes are not attached to each other, but are held in place by the studs and the other pieces around them.
Cheese-slope techniques have been extensively researched by LEGO fan Katie Walker, who is well known for her cheese-slope mosaics. Her research into the techniques has been used by many other LEGO fans and also published in books.
If you would like to understand the techniques better, I highly recommend the following article by Katie: Cheese-Slope Mosaics: A Tutorial It includes extensive explanation of the techniques as well as pictures with demonstrations.

Thanks! That’s exactly what I need!


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Is this grey piece a LEGO part?
I have this piece in our box of random LEGO. It doesn’t have any studs to connect to so wonder if it’s even a LEGO piece.
Added a picture with other pieces for size perspective.

Can you take a picture of it next to a Lego 2x4 brick, or something of that nature to give us a better idea of the size?

It is not LEGO but a clip for a Playmobil cannon.
https://www.libble.de/playmobil-7683/p/561335/

How the heck did you figure that out?  That's awesome :)

Exactly! I am amazed. I don’t know if we even have that cannon. I’m glad to remove it from the Lego box. :) Many thanks.

This piece doesn't look like any actual Lego piece that I am familiar with. The way the back of it is designed it looks likely that it snaps onto something.  I'll throw a guess out here and suggest it possibly came off of a toy train or model train wheel assembly.  It looks vaguely similar to the outside section of Lego part# 2878 (Train Wheel RC Train, Holder).


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How can I prevent my finger from getting injured between gears?
Recently I was building a prototype for a LEGO tank chassis and I tested it, but my finger got caught between the gears, resulting in my finger getting cut. Are there any ways to prevent that from happening?

You're a trooper, being able to work through the pain so you could type in this question with your mangled fingers ;)

You could use a/some clutch gear/s while prototyping, if you get stuck the mechanism will stop. Or some sort of push button attached to the battery box that you have to keep pressed. If you let go, the motor will stop at once.

@Uli Unfortunately I have no clutch gears, and I don't really want to have a non-toggle type switch on the battery box.

@technicguy1 Okay, I see. Anyway, can you add an image of your prototype?

Do you need to put your fingers near it while the system is running?

Here's an idea for a stop switch using a remote control and one's wrist.

Place your wrist on the switch to start the motor. With your hands free you're still able to carefully adjust your running gears. But what if something (or someone...) gets stuck?

Just lift your wrist and the motor will stop immediately. No need to quickly flick that switch on the battery box anymore.

If your geartrain contains z24 gear you can substitute it with z24 clutch gear. It has built-in safety mechanism - it would slip under certain toque and as result of this it will stop transfering motion if gears placed after it would stop or get blocked.


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How to disassemble LEGO train engine base part# 28743?
I have one of the new Bluetooth engines (part 28743, but in the bottom it says Hub No 5 model) that has started to under-perform and make some noises, I think that it need some maintenance (maybe due to cat hair) and I need to disassemble it.
The thing is that I can't see the screws properly. I think they are Torx ones but I don't know what size they are. Can someone provide the size and model of the key I need to acquire to take it apart? Any other advice is welcome, Google was not helpful.

This seems to be part of the sets 10874 and 10875. 28743 is apparently not available as replacement part. FCC info is available at https://fccid.io/NPI28743. PCB photo (source). MCU from that photo: https://www.ti.com/product/CC2640

"Push & Go" Patent (source). What was the cause of your problems and [how] were you able to repair the unit?

@handle it was indeed cat hair. After removing it, the unit started to work properly

Here are some disassembly pictures and tips.

Tools needed:

Either a precision flat-head or Philips screwdriver: There are two flat-head/Phillips hybrid screws that hold the the battery cover down. These two screws do not come completely out the battery cover.
T9 Star Key: There are six T9 star screws.  Four on the corners of the housing and two hidden inside the battery box.
Magnets:  Not required but helpful to keep the screws from getting lost.

The train has a headlight construction with two floating pieces that will fall out.  There is a proper way these pieces go back in, so it's possible not to notice their right orientation.

The clear transparent piece has a "wave" that swells up to encompass and sit directly on the light element. So, the "wave swell" humping up is the top of this piece.
The white headlight diffuse has two squared off "vampire fang" tabs.  Those tabs are the bottom of this piece.

Note: When reassembling, the white diffuse piece and the clear transparent piece have to be together FIRST, then TOGETHER, they are dropped directly down into it's spot.  I found it difficult to put them in separately.

Wheel inspection: I would start with the heavier, but easier to access back wheels.

The positive and negative wires are still tethered to the board, but...

... it just flips up and out for an easy looky-look.

Now to get at the floating front wheels, first we need to flip up the circular speaker.
There's a green rubber button that sits in there too.  See the top lip of the green thing?  That top lip sits on top of the wheel's axle bar. When putting the wheel and axle back in, it's easy to poke it around reposition it back in it's place, so don't worry too much about it, just don't lose it.

Now it's time to gingerly pry up the green circuit board.  When I was taking this apart, it seemed like there were two black tabs holding the board down, but I think those tabs are there to just keep it in place.
The two big (+) positive and (-) negative globs of solder seem to be doing double duty, both as electrical terminal points and as screws to keep the thing in place.

Now be careful.  Look at the above picture.  See the angle I pried up? Just enough to squeeze the wheels and axle out.  Look again at those metal diode stalks coming down from the board at a 90 degree angle.  Those are the bulbs for the train's light/color readers.

This next picture shows how those light/color readers look from underneath next to Mr. Green rubber button.

Good Lord that's detailed!  Even though I will probably never need this information (no Duplo trains) I appreciated the step-by-step instructions. A++ for the effort :)

Thanks for the detailed explanation which helped me. Now I need to remove one of the propulsion wheel that is "slipping". Do you have any clue how to remove them from their axel.

Hey, there.  Sorry it took me so long to get back.  Had to get some food/things before the forced curfew... Anyway, look the picture below, and tell me which wheel(s) are slipping, so we're both are focused on the same part.  Tell me (01), (02), (03) or (04).   https://i.stack.imgur.com/0zVjP.jpg

@RinRio-Oki I started a new thread to make things easier to discuss. So we can talk of it there : https://bricks.stackexchange.com/questions/13425/how-to-disassemble-the-propulsion-wheels-of-the-lego-duplo-train-engine-base-par

I was able to remove the screws properly with a Torx T9 screwdriver from our Duplo Train Push & Go Motor (28743).

I don't know if it helps, but there is a video about opening the train:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BjTmENxCRrQ

Hi charger and welcome to Bricks.SE! You have an exceptionally nice video linked, but as you can see in the [help] and [tour] pages, it is considerably better to provide a brief description about the contents of the video. If you have pictures to add, they improve the post as well :) So in order to turn this link-only answer into a great answer, could you please edit it and provide a description of the process? Thank you!

Video is private and unavailable :( Any other source for the video?


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Selling complete sets, Assembled or Disassembled?
I have several complete Lego sets that are assembled.  I would like to sell them and want to know if I should ask a higher price if I disassemble them and organize the pieces?  I also have the instruction books that go with them.

A good part of the LEGO experience is building the set. There is little joy in buying a LEGO set that was already built by someone else. So you are right, that a disassembled set is usually viewed as more valuable. However, consider the following points.
When people purchase a LEGO set, either new or used, they expect the parts to be sorted in some way into bags. So, taking apart the sets you have and putting them into baggies is not considered an additional service you're providing and buyers are willing to pay extra for.
Shipping a fully assembled set puts a lot more liability on you than shipping loose parts. If you advertise the set as fully built, and someone buys it, if any of the set gets broken or pieces fall off (which will likely happen in shipping), the buyer has all the rights to be disappointed and demand a resolution from you (shipping the set back to you at your expense, getting a partial or full refund, etc.) Also consider that shipping a fully built set is going to be more expensive, as you will have to use a lot more protective wrapping and a larger box.
As far as how much you can sell the sets for, that will be dictated by the market. You can certainly start out by listing your sets at the higher end compared to other listings, but it will be up to the buyers to decide if its worth it to them. If they don't buy, you will have to consider lowering the price, keeping the set for yourself, or selling the parts in bulk or individually.
If you are looking for angles to make your listing more attractive, here are some things buyers are looking for and willing to pay more for: Clean pieces, no damage or fading to the pieces, minifigs, instructions, and box (if provided). Stickers are clean and nicely applied without any fading or curling. The pieces are nicely organized in baggies based on color, piece type, or building steps. The set comes from a smoke and pet free home. The set belonged to an adult collector (or if from a child, the pieces are cleaned and sanitized). There are clear and detailed pictures included with the listing.
Hope this helps some. Any other questions, just post it as a follow up, and the community can give you more info.

That was a terrific answer.  I pretty much figure I will specify that the pieces are all sterilized and put into bags for organization.  Thank you for such a prompt reply

You're very welcome! Wishing you the best with selling your sets! :)

Let me add another perspective to TheBrickBlogger’s answer: when I buy a used set on EBay, I like to have some sort of a visual guarantee that the set is complete and as described. The only way to get that confirmation is by seeing pictures of the built set, ideally from all angles.
So, when I sell used sets on EBay, I will make sure the set is fully built, take pictures from all angles, take pictures of areas where pieces are missing or stickers are less than perfectly applied, and then list. Then, depending on the size of the set, I take the set apart (potentially sort it, but that is not a must) and make a clear note in my listing that the set is complete (with either “missing the extra pieces” or “missing minifigs” or something like that if necessary) and will be shipped disassembled in a ziploc bag.
By including pictures of the built set, I give the buyer a visual confirmation of what they can receive, and at the same time insure myself against “but the minifigs are missing” claims that can be easily disproven by just looking at the picture.
As a buyer, even if the set is built when I receive it, I will still disassemble the set, wash the pieces, and do a full inventory to make sure all pieces are included (using the inventory at the end of the manual, or using the BrickLink inventory in BrickStock). So there is no difference for me between a set that is shipped assembled or disassembled, apart perhaps for the extra effort in taking a built set apart.

One of the things that I was completely taken by surprise when I started buying on eBay in 2019, was that the almost everyone was sending me the sets fully and/or almost fully assembled. I even had a case where some parts were falling off the box when I received it, and another case when some part belonging to a set more than 40 years old was sent broken because - I reckon - the seller tried to partially dissassemble it and broken it in the process. I'm selling on BL and I always send everything cataloged in small ziplock bags, maybe because I love LEGO that much :)


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Finding a Piece with a Picture
I have been trying to find this Lego Piece for a while now and I just can't seem to find it. I saw this Lego Warthog MOC on Youtube by hachiroku24 and wanted to build it, but I can't seem to identify the main part of the turret. The piece is the black one in the lower middle and I can't seem to find it anywhere. Anyone have any ideas?

Here's the video URL for a better look at the piece:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vg2NBk0SaIY&t=1s

I skimmed through the video, that's a pretty awesome build!  Hope you find the part you need :)

The piece is question appears to be part# 15071, via Bricklink:

https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?id=123914#T=C


text:
What is the rarest LEGO set ever produced?
Is there a general consensus on what the "rarest" LEGO set of all time is? And if so, then what is it?
To clarify, of the sets that at some point were for sale to the general public, which one is the hardest to acquire? Tour and company exclusives should not be included, as they were never "produced" to the general public. As far as what quantifies "rarity," price, number produced, current avaliability, or etc, I'm not sure, and that's why I'm asking if there is a consensus on this.

Rare as in limited production or as in currently obtainable?

I don’t think there is a consensus, as much as there isn’t a consensus of what constitutes “rare” (is it availability at release, production volume, current market availability?) or what is considered a “set” (is a collectible minifigure a set?). Also, how far back do you want to go? Are LEGO sets from the 50s and 60s included, even the one-piece cars?
From recent LEGO offerings, I think the Batpod is a good contender. Only 750 were available (but a few more popped up at the launch of the new VIP Rewards site, so there might have been up to 1000 of these made).

LEGO made some pretty rare models in its early days, such as the 1957-1958 Opel Kapitan, with only 8 copies known to exist (according to LEGO historian Gary Isztok).

Wow, you posted this RIGHT after I did.  Looks like the Bat Pod is a winner :D

Not only that, we also typed almost identical comments under eachother’s posts. Jinx!

This question is nearly impossible to answer with all the variables.  You might consider refining your question to a more realistic scope by eliminating sets like "Inside Tour Exclusives", Comic Con Exclusives, single minifigures like the gold C-3PO, or employee exclusives.
While probably not the "rarest" set out there, the 5004590 "Bat Pod" is annoyingly rare.  Sure you could piece one together, but getting one with the box and instructions is pricey.
(https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?S=5004590-1#T=S&O)

Some of the old HO scale cars in certain colors are extremely rare. I would think that many of the old piece packs/boxes are probably hard to find and/or buy.
Related: What is the rarest LEGO production element (colour/shape combination)?

Wow, we managed to type identical answers just minutes apart! That must mean our suggestions are correct :)

They must be ;)


text:
How to make an object glow in Studio (BrickLink)
Is there a way to add glow colors to objects or parts in the BrickLink's Studio?
The thing I am trying to do is to make a glowing light bulb so I can have it as a light source in enclosed areas (Like any room) and have its impact on rendering (POV - RAY / Photorealistic Render (Eyesight)).
Is it possible? Is there any other lego designing software that supports this?

Looks like I solved my problem myself.
Here's what I did:
I exported the Lego model as Collada (.dae), and imported it in Blender. Selected the material and changed Diffuse BSDF (Maybe changed for you) to Translucent BSDF (for cycles only), selected Volume as Emission and rendered.
Cheers

Blender hangs when I try to import the Collada file. Any idea?

@Alec This sounds like an other type of issue. I would suggest ask this question on https://www.superuser.com/


text:
Which set is this black LEGO Technic car with skull and fire stickers?
Please help me to identify the LEGO set. Thanks!

This car looks like the secondary/alternative model from set# 8167, "Jump Riders":

I see you edited your answer and it appears that we had the same idea. I'll go ahead and delete my answer, as it's not needed now.

I suspected the alternative model, so looked through the pdf instructions and discovered it.  I don't mind if you leave your answer, you may get some points out of it.

Yep, that's exactly what I did! I guess I'll go ahead and un-delete it, mine does include a link that might be helpful I guess.

Thank you guys!!

@Angel - You're welcome :)

This an alternate build from set 8167 LEGO Jump Riders as seen in the instruction booklet.

I'll even be good sport and "1-up" your correct answer :)


text:
BricxCC not seeing Serial Tower in Windows 10
Same problem with both the native 9-pin serial port and with a USB to 9-pin Serial adapter.  Using Lego's original cable.

Start BricxCC Version 3.3 (Build 3.3.8.10).  It asks for the connection method.
Choose any option for the Port (I've tried them all with the same results), and RCX or RCX2 for the Brick Type.  Standard Firmware.
(Actually, there isn't any firmware in the brick yet.  Need to do that as soon as it connects, but I can't even get that far.)
Click OK.  Communication fails immediately.  "No connection to the programmable brick.  Certain options will be unavailable."
Acknowledge the message.  Click "Find Brick", and repeat from #2.

A google search turned up a note about using a terminal emulator to talk to the tower directly.  2400baud, no handshaking, should echo characters in the terminal, and the green activity light should make sense.  That DOES work, for both the native port and the USB to serial adapter.
Using https://sourceforge.net/projects/realterm/ on Windows 10, fully up-to-date as of this writing.

When I close the native port, the green light comes on and stays on, and remains on while BricxCC tries to connect.  It turns off when I reopen the port in the terminal emulator.
When I close the USB adapter, the green light turns off, and remains off while BricxCC tries to connect.  It stays off when I reopen the port in the terminal emulator, except to indicate activity as expected.

I tried running BricxCC in Compatibility mode for Windows 98/ME, and then for Windows XP (Service Pack 2 & 3).  Same result.
Any ideas?

A bit more fumbling around led me to an actual installer:
http://bricxcc.sourceforge.net/test_releases
I was hesitant to use that because of the word "test", but in fact that's what's needed to work at all.  Download bricxcc_setup_33810_20130220.exe from there and run it, and it "just works".

The situation above came from a zipped archive, not the installer.  Having rejected the "test" version, I then found the archive, unzipped it, and tried to use it.  Apparently, it was missing something that the installer includes.  Comparing the installed program directory to the unzipped one definitely confirms this!

I'm glad you figured it out! I was going to suggest going BACK a version, because 3.3.8.9 works alright on my computer. Good to know that 3.3.8.10 works via the installer.


text:
Which set are these Mega Bloks pieces from?
Please help me identify which Mega Bloks set or sets these bricks are from.  Any help is appreciated.

Those look like Mega Blocks parts.

Appreciate your help!

The MEGA BLOKS logo on the parts seems to suggest that. ;)

Any1 has instructions for this set?

These pieces are from Mega Bloks "Warriors: Future Force" set# 9528 "U-240 Assault".
(Instructions: https://support.megabrands.com/media/playbooks/9528.pdf)

Even though the picture is low resolution, you can see the orange parts on the three barrel turret better:

Any1 has instructions for this set?

Looks like the link is dead, see here for an archive containing (among others) the instructions for this model. (From Syberion's answer )

I have an unopened set with tape intact. I can see from the box cover those pieces are from Mega Bloks "Warriors: Future Force" set# 9528 "U-240 Assault"


text:
Please help identify this set & figures
Please help identify this set, and which sets these figures are from. Thanks!!

Wonderful! Thank you so much!!

Please consider selecting one answer from each of your questions as "correct" to give your questions closure. If more than one is eligible then select either the most useful of first posted answer. Thanks!

Set #8049 - Tractor with Log Loader.

???
Part # NBA005 - NBA Ray Allen, Milwaukee Bucks #34.

???
Part# NBA006 - NBA Pau Gasol, Memphis Grizzlies #16.

The "04" figure is from the set you asked about in another post (Which set are these Mega Bloks pieces from?). It's from Mega Bloks "Warriors: Future Force" set# 9528 "U-240 Assault".

You are amazing!! Thanks!!

Looks like the Islanders War-painted minifigure head, but somehow mirrored from what is shown in Bricklink.

Is a clone-minifigure, not LEGO.

Also appears to be missing the white, opposite the red.

Yes, although that could be a photo-quality issue.


text:
Can you identify the set? Maybe a crane?
We obtained this as part of a bulk lot.  Please help me figure out which set it is from.  A Web search found many cranes, but not like this one. Could be a MOC ;-)

Welcome to Bricks.SE  This looks like quite a contraption.  Would how you got this help us figure out who might have been the builder?

Is this LEGO? I can't tell from the picture... does it say LEGO on the studs?

All the studs are carefully watered to disguise any logos on them :-(

@uli,@jknappen,it says Lego on plate

Based on the pieces in the photo is looks like the remains of set# 4957 Ferris Wheel.

They had apparently built one of the secondary/alternative models from the set.
(Building instructions here: https://www.lego.com/en-us/service/buildinginstructions/search#?search&text=4957)

Thank you.  I've got motor with it too and some other parts from set picture, looks like it!

Appreciate the feedback :) That's a great score in a bulk buy!


text:
Publishing instructions for MOC based on Lego Technic set
Are there any copyright issues in the case of creating a MOC based on a Lego Technic set, and then publishing my own instruction and/or video for it?
Regards,
Pavel

I think the key here is if you are trying to profit from it.  If you are doing this as a hobby, aka for fun, you have nothing to worry about.  If you are trying to sell the model and/or instructions, then you risk a friendly "Cease and Desist" letter from the Lego Group.
Here is a paragraph from their "Fair Play Brochure":
"For this reason, certain guidelines have
been developed to outline the proper
use of the LEGO Group’s trademarks and
copyrighted material for non-commercial
purposes in domain names and websites.
The LEGO Group’s trademarks and
copyrighted material may NEVER be
used by unrelated third parties for their
own commercial or marketing purposes,
unless formal permission or a written
licence has been granted by the LEGO
Group."
Fair Play Brochure: https://www.lego.com/cdn/cs/legal/assets/blt1a4c9a959ce8e1cb/FairPlayBrochure.pdf

I see this sort of thing done regularly and never heard of anyone being shut down. Even really famous builders like JKBrickworks publish modifications for official sets and he would definitely be on Lego's radar having had two sets created through the Ideas program.


text:
Scarcity of electric parts: motors etc
Having bought parts in bulk several times I came to realization that electric parts are scarce resource in Lego world.  The cost of plastic parts comes at around 10% of original price but there are so few electrics among them that I consider buying motors etc. separately and the cost would be times more as percentage of original price.
Most Technic sets are sold w/out electric parts,  so most of buyers do not purchase electric parts,  hence small after market.  I talked to salesman in one shop - hardly proper sample,  still - the quantity of pure electric sets sold is so small I could hardly imagine it's significant profit for Lego.
Web search did not show info on the topic.  What are most probable reasons that electrics are not bundled in sets?  Are there studies / discussions why this strategy was chosen by Lego?

Cost. If you look at any set with electric motors, etc. you will see a significant increase in the price of these sets.  They have marketing research groups and accountants that somewhat dictate the price range of the sets they release.  Any engineer with good experience can tell you of the headaches of dealing with keeping production cost down.  Since the cost of the motorized sets are inflated by including expensive to produce/source parts, they will only allow so many to be produced/released each year.
Most customers take things at face value.  They see that you "get less (pieces)" for your money in these sets and are less likely to buy them as often. The Lego company's targeted demographic has been stated as 8-12 year old boys from various sources.  I tend to believe this claim based on the amount of sets released with those ages listed on them.  This would also suggest that the majority of their marketing research is dedicated to this specific group, and has shown that electric components aren't a big selling point. I can confirm this to be accurate based on my own children and their friends.
I know from an engineering standpoint that the more components something has, and how "specialized" they are, the more expensive it is to produce. Because of this many parts are outsourced from companies that specialize it certain components. Electronics are good example of this as many of the internal components are manufactured from different companies. So not only are these individual pieces bought from several different places, but then they have to be assembled.  All this equals "cost of production".
One last note: I often come across sets for sale (Bricklink, Ebay, etc.) without the electronic components.  I have come to the conclusion that these people are buying the sets just for the motors, etc. and selling the rest to recover some of the cost.  This works out well for sets like trains where adding additional cars is a common desire. This is option you might consider.
Related: How much does an average LEGO brick cost to produce?
Another possible aspect that I have no knowledge of is if there are any additional costs to import/export products that fall under "electronics".

I would love to know actual variable production costs of plastic vs electric parts per kilo. ;-)

@Child Detektiv - As would I. To see how much they cost Lego vs. how much we pay for them would be interesting to know, if not infuriating. You might consider this as another question to post, although some aspects have been covered to some extent.

I thought about asking about differences in cost for different colors,  but maybe it is more suitable for chemistry site.

LEGO seems to put significant effort into make products available at various price-points.  Products like the Ferris Wheel and Carousel are a bit better with a motor, but you can get most of the fun by manually cranking them.  Alex Nunes, and probably a few others folks, have created setups where multiple amusement park rides are sharing a single motor.  If LEGO included motors with everything that could use them not only would fewer people be able to buy the set, but folks like Alex would be "stuck" with extra motors.  I'm sure he'd find something to do with it, but maybe he's happier for not needing to figure that out.
Another advantage of motors sold separately is that you can share the motor between multiple sets.  Maybe you're only playing with one amusement park ride at a time.  Extra motors wouldn't help you any and if you're already space-constrained it would make things less fun.  Extra motors also means extra battery boxes and the fewer batteries I need to worry about recharging or replacing the happier I am.
On the other side of things big Technic sets like the Bucket Wheel Excavator and the Crawler Crane would be hard to do much with without the motor.  Mercifully LEGO has you covered for these sets and the motor is included.
So to summarize:

If you don't need the electronics you don't have to buy it.
You get more flexible options to fit into your finances and space.
If you need the motor it is probably included so you don't have to fret about forgetting it.


text:
How to distinguish between objects using a sonic sensor?
I am trying to find a ball in the field, grab it, and drop in the specified area. I'm using an ultrasonic sensor on the front of the robot.

My current solution for locating the ball is: Turn 360 degrees and find the closest object. This part works.
After obtaining the ball it needs to be dropped in the reserved triangular area.  What can I do to make the sonic sensor distinguish between the ball, walls, and the triangular drop area?

Are you limited to only the ultrasonic sensor on your robot?

It's been quite a while since I've programmed a robot, but using only the sonic sensor does make it a bit more challenging.  Also, not knowing anything else about the robot you've built (it's size, other sensors & their location, the ball grabbing mechanism, etc.) it further complicates any possible advice.
That being said, the only solution I could think of would be to use the opening/doorway to the room as a reference point for the robot.  The sensor should be able to locate it since it's "open", and the robot sent towards it.  The line on the ramp leads me to believe your robot has a color sensor for line following, therefore should be able to detect the line at the doorway once it arrives.  This will also allow the robot to "true" its location, which would allow rotating "x" degrees to have you pointing directly at the drop-off point.  Then straight forward and (?) because I have no idea how your robot even picks the balls up or drops them.
My other solution would be to have a mechanical release lever for the ball.  The lever would be positioned so only the low wall of the triangle could push it.  This would be a much more simple solution in theory.


text:
Hi. I’d Like To Identify The Bricks In The Picture

I’d like to buy these bricks but I’m having trouble identifying some of them.

I count 28 different (okay, a few only differs in colour) pieces, some of which are very ordinary. I don't think anyone is going to spend all the time it will take to write an answer identifying everything in that picture. So, please focus on the parts you're actually having trouble with.

I'd be more helpful if you could also mention the source of the pic, which seems to be an existing set or MOC :)

001 - Minifigure, Utensil Coin. or Minifigure, Utensil Ring 1 x 1 - Lord of the Rings. Alternative answer by Alexander "Hawk-eyes" O'Mara, Thanks.
002 - Plate, Round 1 x 1 with Open Stud.
003 - Bar 1L with 1 x 1 Round Plate with Hollow Stud Black.
004 - Bar 1L with 1 x 1 Round Plate with Hollow Stud Light Bluish Gray.
005 - Plate, Modified 1 x 2 with 1 Stud with Groove (Jumper).
006 - Minifigure, Utensil Tool Box Wrench - 3-Rib Handle.
007 - Slope, Curved 2 x 1 No Studs.
008 - Bracket 1 x 2 - 2 x 2 Inverted.
009 - Plate, Modified 1 x 1 Rounded with Handle.
010 - Plate, Modified 1 x 2 Rounded with 2 Open Studs.
011 - Plate 1 x 2.
012 - Plate 2 x 3.
013 - Plate, Modified 1 x 2 with Handle on Side - Free Ends.
014 - Plate, Modified 1 x 4 Offset.
015 - Plate, Modified 1 x 2 with Pin Hole on Top.
016 - Slope 30 1 x 1 x 2/3 Clear Transparent.
017 - Plate, Modified 1 x 1 with Clip Vertical.
018 - Bracket 1 x 2 - 1 x 2.
019 - Slope 30 1 x 1 x 2/3 Blue.
020 - Tile 1 x 1 with Groove.
021 - Brick, Modified 1 x 1 with Stud on 1 Side.
022 - Slope, Curved 2 x 2 No Studs.
023 - Technic, Pin 1/2.
024 - Brick, Round 1 x 1 Open Stud.
025 - Brick 1 x 1.
26a - Tile, Modified 1 x 1 with Clip Blue.
26b - Tile, Modified 1 x 1 with Clip Red.
26c - Tile, Modified 1 x 1 with Clip Black.

Wow, I'm surprised anyone was willing to do all that. I'm not sure, but I think the first one might be a LOTR ring. +1 either way though.

A+ for the effort!


text:
What's the time on the LEGO clock tile?
I am reasonably confident that this tile is meant to be 2:57:38,  but I am wondering if anyone knows why this time might have been chosen?

I also recognize the Disney clocks all have a different time (11:53).
[edit: changed to correct time- thanks henrik]
Addendum:
Why did I ask this question?
Earlier this year, the LEGO Xtra line included a sticker pack, and it included this clock face, scaled up for a 4x4 stud circle.

I found myself wondering if this sticker pack was a tribute to the 6000 ideas book. On re-exaiming the sticker sheet in the 6000 ideas book, the clock sticker is set at 08:00:20. It almost looks as if the 'newer tile' that we have been speculating about is similar, but switching around the positions of the large and small hands, and altering the position of the hand pointing towards the 8 slightly.

I love the idea of "School's out o'clock",suggested by some below, but could it have just been a transcription error by a graphic designer in the early 80's? Or indeed a 'correction'?
Or is it just a way of having the hands roughly equidistant apart on a clock face?
[Thanks@JohhnyB for assistance with Stack exchange etiquette]

@Henrik sorry- you are quite correct. I’ve edited my original post.

For an analog clock the hands might indicate one of four times: 3:57:38, 9:27:08, 12:42:28, 6:12:53, but note that because the short hand points exactly at an hour mark all four of these times are impossible. The hands are close to indicating the only possible time of: 2:57:38 but for that to be correct the short hand should be slightly anticlockwise of its present position by about 0.25 degrees.

@Dan1138: Can you actually see that the hand is pointing exactly at the hour mark, and not a point 0,25 degrees before? (BTW: how do you get as little as 0,25 degrees? My quick calculations gave over 1,3 degrees.)

This is a great question. Perhaps the designer(s) could chime in. Anything short of that is speculation. Speaking of, my guess is that the placement of the hands is aesthetically pleasing and makes this look "clock-ish" right away. But the idea that the time has significance, that's a fun thought.

@Henrik, 0.25 degrees is an error based on my faulty math skills. On recalculation the short hand moves through a 30° arc, and the long hand is 3 parts in 60 of a full circle. The correct anticlockwise angle is (90-(30*3/60))°. The correct angle is 1.5°. Sorry for my error.

This is Part# 4150px1.
Okay, I didn't call/write LEGO for answers. This is just speculative guesswork (and I should be ashamed).
First off, sorry, for not giving you time to explain the full relevance of the Disney clocks with regards to your question.  There are other clock patterns besides this pattern, and the "Just-Before-Midnight" Disney pattern.
So, I was trying to get your connection, until I thought about what you wrote, and what I thought in my mind.
You wrote the Disney clocks all have a different time (11:53).  I thought in my head "Just-Before-Midnight", because in many fairly tales, Midnight, is the magically important event.
So, it got me thinking: If I were a Danish LEGO designer, and I was making toys for school aged children, then what would be a magically important event to a grade schooler? If an adult's time could ever be important to a child, what time would that be?
Hmm, maybe the few minutes before 3:00pm, the time school lets out and for them, the real magic begins?
So, I'm guessing, 2:57:38pm might be the same "Just-Before-The-Magical-Event" subconsciously embedded in every grade school boy or girl's head, and some random LEGO designer had the insight to try and capture it.

I had the exact thought of school being almost out, but wasn't sure how common my childhood experience was compared to other people and countries.  My own kids let out of school at 2:30 1-5, and 3:00 6-12.  So, your speculation is not alone ;)  Come to think of it, any Calvin & Hobbes fans?  I think Calvin let out at 3:00 also, and the mid-80's timing (of the part) is spot on.

Things might be different in other cities, but I went to school in Denmark from 1982, and we were generally let out when the last scheduled lesson was over, which was often different for different days of the week.

Found the comics I was thinking of, looks like it was 2:30 for Calvin.  I was really wanting to call it the "Calvin Clock" piece. :(

I love the idea of ‘just before schools out’.  Re Disney 11:53- legend has it that that was the time of the opening speech at the original Disneyland as well...

According to this source, schools do not go out at 3 o'clock in Denmark... https://expatfamilyindenmark.wordpress.com/2016/08/22/10-ways-elementary-school-in-denmark-is-different-than-elementary-school-in-the-united-states/

My search for information pertaining to the history of this printed piece turned up no results. Not to say there isn't any, I just couldn't find anything.  I honestly never gave it much thought before and assumed they simply chose an aesthetically pleasing arrangement of the clock hands.
I found that this part first appeared in 1983 on set# 7824 "Train Station".  This set and the next two released with this part (sets 6392, 4554) all show the clocks displayed as the time you mentioned, 2:57.  This would seem to suggest that this was the time originally intended, as you had speculated. These sets, released between 1983 to 1991, had similar "travel" themes which made me question if 3:00 was a common time for trains and planes.  The first set, #7824, DOES have 3:00 listed on it's schedule sticker. But, the next two do not.

Then, interestingly enough, in 1996 they were consistently changed for the next 6 sets to 11:43-ish, until 2004.  Then, in 2007, they seem to become somewhat random in how they're oriented in the sets.  I made a picture compilation of the first 16 sets to include this piece, in order of date released, with the orientation of the clock shown in the lower right:

I also was curious about other clocks that Lego has released in sets and if there was any sort of consistency with the times.  A quick search on Bricklink for "clock" under "parts" brought up a very long list of pieces depicting a broad range of times:
https://www.bricklink.com/v2/search.page?q=clock#T=P
It also appears they added an "updated" version of part# 4150px1 in 2009 with part# 14769pb001 having a different back on the tile.

Lastly, I totally agree with the speculation by Rin Rio-Oki of it being the "magical time" of being released from your tormentors aka "school".  Regardless of whether any "facts" were to surface relating to the true origins of this piece, this theoretical meaning gives it character.  Being a big Calvin & Hobbes fan since the 80's, I remembered there being a few comics that depicted the time Calvin got out of school.  I eventually found a couple of the comics, and it turns out it was 2:30 instead of 3:00.  My dream of naming this Lego piece the "Calvin Clock" quickly faded.

All rights to these comics belong to Bill Watterson.  It is my hope that by using them here for a smile, and not for profit, that no infringement has been made.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bill_Watterson


text:
Which part is this grey pillar?
I am wondering which set this part is from. I'm trying to make a set complete and this part clearly doesn't belong to it when I check the sets parts list.

This is a Lightsaber hilt (Minifigure weapon) part# 64567. The color looks like light-bluish gray in the picture, which was in 201 different sets.  You can look through the many sets on Bricklink:  (https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=64567#T=C&C=86)

These are very common parts in many Star Wars sets, but come in quite a variety of different themes.

Thx for your quick answer, any idea of set name where it's used in?

Yes, I added a link for you to look through the many sets :)

Already found the set name out, thx again JohnnyB

You're welcome :)


text:
Separating old 2 x 4 brick with wheel holder
I am wondering if anyone knows of a way to separate the clear bottom piece from the brick on part# 7049b "Brick, Modified 2 x 4 with Wheels Holder Old and Trans-Clear Bottom" without breaking anything.  Photo for reference:

I have one that has a loose bottom and it got me wondering if they could be separated without breaking them. Some of the ones I have are kinda nasty inside, while others have loose tubes that don't retain the axles very well anymore.  It would be nice if I could take them apart for cleaning and repairs, but most of them seemed "glued" together very well.  I realize they aren't meant to be taken apart, but wondered if some process including heat or something would work.  Has anyone ever tried this?  If so could you please share you experience?

Here's a patent drawing showing the inner workings of the brick...

@Uli - That is very interesting, thanks!

I actually have one of these that comes apart easily (no idea where the internal tubes are).

It appears that the glue that used to hold them together gave out. You can still see where it used to be, around the edges of the clear piece, and at the tips of the 4 prongs on the clear piece.

If I were going to try to take one apart, I would probably try cutting the glue around the edge with a razor blade, and hope that the glue further in isn't strong enough to prevent pushing it out with a paperclip of something thought the axle holes.

As I hoped, this gives us a lot of information on the internal working of how they were "glued" together.  Thank you for posting these pictures!

This was, in all reality, the most useful information given.

I just went through the experience.

My process:
01 -  Boil water for 7mins. Bring water to a boil. ** EDIT by Kat.
02 - Toss LEGO in.
03 - Simmer for five minutes.
04 - With some tools find an edge, and pry.
05 - If piece cools down repeat steps 02-04...

The final analysis?
We'll let your words speak the truth:

"...seemed "glued" together very well. I realize they aren't meant to
  be taken apart..." - JohnnyB.

Even though the attempt was a failure, it did confirm Uli's upload of the piece schematics.
Added some light blue coloring to Uli's pic to help distinguish exactly what we're looking at.
Schematic Figures 4,5,6 and 7 is/are the transparent clear piece.
Looking again at "Fig.7",  note how both that transparent and black outer shell interlock and merge together.
Finally, imaging glue in between the two, which explains why we had trouble with disassembly.

Think it'll buff out? :0  It died for science, a sacrifice in hopes that no others will share it's fate.  Your efforts and blatant disregard for that brick's well being are appreciated!

@JohnnyB So the answer just boiled down to "impossible"... : )

Why "boil water for seven minutes"? Do you mean bring water to a boil or did you actually boil just water for seven minutes?

By the amount of damage done to get it apart I doubt that the clear part was glued in it looks more like it was an ultrasonic weld.

@Kat he just wanted to make it safe for drinking. It's called Multitasking. I kid, of course.

I actually have at-least one of these which comes apart very easily. Perhaps it wasn't glued properly.

@ Alexander O'Mara - Pictures please!  Would love to see the insides of both pieces in their un-mangled form.


text:
Advice on selling a lot of Lego?
I have a bin of Lego with a bunch of $100+ sets. The bin contains 29lbs. of Lego. I want to sell them, how should I price them? There are sets like 7743 and such. They are in pristine condition. There might be other small objects in the bin, but I don't know what. Any help is appreciated! Thanks!
Sincerely,
Nathan

Please clarify your question with information regarding how you want to sell the sets, individually or in bulk.  "They are in pristine condition." for example. Are you referring to the sets or the pieces?

Post an auction on ebay, and let the buyers determine the worth.  Include a lot of pictures of what is in the lot, so buyers know what they are getting.  If you go random, the most folks will pay is what it is worth with all low valued pieces.

If you want to make more money, sort the Lego out, and see if you can complete sets.  For some sets the complete set will sell for more than the individual pieces, for other sets the individual pieces will sell for more.

If you want to maximize profit do some research on sites like ebay, bricklink, brickowl and see what the parts you have are selling for.  If not, then just post it as you described it here, as an auction on eBay, and see if anyone bids.

Your question could use some clarity. "Bin of Lego" and "pristine condition" seem to contradict itself. You mention the weight, which is standard for selling in bulk, but then ask, "How do I price them?" as if selling sets individually. If the sets are complete they are going to be worth more, especially if the minifigures are with them. Inclusion of instruction manuals and boxes also can add significant value. How much depends on the condition of the pieces, minifigures, instructions, the box and if the set is popular/desired.
You can look them up on Ebay to give you an idea of the current going rate, or use Bricklink. Enter the set number and navigate to its page where you will see a "Price Guide" option on the lower right:

It will take you to a page showing how much they have been selling for, and how much they are currently selling for:

You really should have searched for this topic before posting, there are a lot of answers available to very similar questions:
How should I arrange LEGO to sell per pound?
What is the easiest way to sell Lego sets for a good price?
Value/Where to sell my old Lego collection
How to sell a large amount of Lego
What is the best way to sell complete used LEGO sets?
Selling bulk LEGO
The list goes on...
https://bricks.stackexchange.com/search?q=sell+lego


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Which old Technic set included large yellow motor?
I am trying to find the number or some other identity of a Technic set I remember owning as a child (so it was probably bought in the 1985-1995 year range, more likely in the 80's half of it). Among lots of other (mainly yellow) bricks, it included a large yellow motor. By my recolleciton, the motor was 4 studs wide, 3 or 4 bricks high and I guess 8-12 studs long. If I recall right, it looked something like this from the side:
 XXXXXXXXXX
XXXXXXXXXXXX
 XXXXXXXXXX

The motorised axle was coming out from the side(s). It was very similar to this motor, but in yellow.
It came with a black control box (most likely this one) which contained the batteries and had a forward/off/backward lever. The control box and motor would be connected through normal Technic power connectors.
There was no one primary thing to be built from the set (it was not e.g. "a car set"), the instruction booklet came with several different designs. I seem to remember that some of them were only shown as final images, not as step-by-step instructions, but I'm not too sure on that. One of the things shown as buildable from the set was some kind of factory or industry mill plant.
I tried searching BrickLink for such a yellow motor, but without success. I also looked through all the Technic sets there, also no luck. The same with browsing Technic sets from the relevant era on BrickSet. Can someone help put a number or some other info on that set for me?

I actually managed to find the exact set while refining the question. It's set 744, released in 1980.

Here are the reasons why the research I did prior to writing the question didn't lead anywhere:

The yellow motor does not show up when searching parts on BrickLink. It's probably because on the list of set 744 parts, it has a note saying "Part colour code missing."
While the set contains lots of gears and axles, bricks and plates with holes, a motor, etc., it's not a Technic set, but a Universal Building set, so it doesn't appear when searching/browsing Technic.

What eventually led me to the correct set was focusing not on the motor (which I had previously considered the most unique part), but on the control box. Listing all sets where that one appeared also showed 744.

I wouldn't normally post a self-answered ID question if simply writing it made me remember enough, but given the special circumstances involved (part doesn't appear in searches, set is not from line it seems to be from), I felt it could have value. If it's not in line with this stack's policy, though, please let me know and I will promptly remove it.

Hey, don't hesitate to answer your own question if you have a good answer!


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Ideas to help develop a child's engineering skills?
My son is 7 yrs. old and has really creative ideas with his bricks. I see it challenging him and wonder, "How can I help develop his product engineering/design skills?"  What kind of tasks can I give him?  Ideas and/or advice please.

Somewhat related: https://bricks.stackexchange.com/questions/3187/whats-a-good-age-to-start-getting-into-mindstorms-with-my-child/4221#4221

,,and this:  https://bricks.stackexchange.com/questions/893/what-are-some-free-kid-friendly-tutorials-to-get-started-with-mindstorms-nxt-2-0

I thnik while he is not able to read freely, Mindstorm is not a good idea..

He can work towards it, I understand he is very young still :)

This is a tricky question and really depends on the individual child.  For my children I sometimes provide them with Lego sets that are too complicated for their age and we build it together so that I can teach them as we go.  They build until they get stuck, or something isn't working right, and then I help them solve the problem.  They are usually very proud of the end result and appreciate the functions of the more complex sets.  When a set falls apart I encourage them to try to fix it themselves before asking for help.
I also have them "help" me with fixing things around the house, or on our cars, in hopes that they will pick some of it up just from being part of the process.  I try to talk through what I'm doing, and why, so they are involved to some degree.
Here are a couple links to some sites with Lego related ideas with varying degrees of difficultly to help you get started:
https://frugalfun4boys.com/lego-projects-for-kids/
http://www.educatingyoungengineers.com/lego-club-activity-ideas

thanks a lot, 2nd link is very useful


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How to prevent PF M-motor from springing back
I'm currently building a car with a simple 2-speed remote controlled synchronized transmission, shifted by a PF M-motor.  Everything is fine except for one thing, the transmission driving ring is disengaging under the high torque due to the changeover catch going too far.
I have added parts blocking the catch from going too far, but when I stop sending current to the motor it spring back somewhat, disengaging the driving ring. Are there any ways of preventing this effect, or do I have to use a different motor altogether? Any help would be very much appreciated.

It sounds like the motor is "winding up" from drivetrain deflection.  Lego parts "give" a little when stressed and therefore store some energy like a spring.  This is likely being caused by the high speed of the PF "M" motor.  A picture of the assembly would be very useful in determining a solution.  Without seeing it, the simplest fix would be to gear down the motor.  Given the fairly high speed of the "M" motor output, I would suggest doing this with a worm gear assembly.  A worm gear will greatly reduce your output ratio to the driving ring while also giving you more precise control that is less susceptible to back-tracking from deflection wind-up.
Here is a photo demonstrating how a worm gear can greatly reduce output ratio in very little space:

Another potential solution, if you have the part, is to affix a linear actuator to the "M" motor.  It would have the same benefits as the standard worm gear:

One last thing... Which version of part# 6538 are you using?  6538a & 6538b have ridges that allow the drive ring to "click' into place.  If you're using part# 6538c then swapping it with one of the others may be all you need to fix your problem.

A picture of your build would be appreciated to help reduce speculation.  It would also be nice to see this just for the "neat-o" factor :)

I'll try the worm gear solution and see if it works, though it will increase the time needed to shift. I'm actually not using the old 2L driving ring, but the new 3L one with the 3L axle joiner with ridges. I'll see if I can post a video about it on YouTube.


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Use D output in 42099 (4X4 X-treme Off-Roader) set
How I can use the D output for an additional motor in the 42099 set? Or how can I use a custom control skin?

At the time of writing this, it is not possible to use the Control+ hub and motors in any other configuration than the already existing preset ones. This situation is expected to change, but there are no promises regarding functionality or timeline from LEGO.


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2:1 gear ratio in stud-less Lego Technic
Is there a recognised technique to create a 2:1 gear ratio in stud-less Lego Technic?
Neither of the two methods suggested here (studded though) work.

24T/12T with a 2L x 1L axle offset does rotate, but is too stiff to be functional.
16T/8T with a 1L x 1L axle offset is totally jammed.

An explanation of these observations - most lego gears need a pitch of (n + m) / 16 studs. Your first case needs 36/16=2.250 but you give it sqrt(5)=2.236. Your second needs 24/16=1.5 but you give it 1.414.

Despite our good intentions with various solutions, the only answer you need is that the first build on the left (12T/24T) is correct. If you are experiencing any stiffness it is from the "L" brackets pinching the gears. This is a case of "real world" application. Anyone who tells you differently obviously hasn't tried it and doesn't know what they're talking about.

The solution from the formula presented by Eric above is a great example of geometric tolerances in mechanical design.  Knowing first-hand that the 12T/24T gears mesh perfectly shows that a difference of .014 is insignificant in this application.  Yay tolerances! :)

Here's a solution I found in Yoshihito Isogawa's LEGO Power Functions Idea Book Vol. 1 - Machines and Mechanisms:

EDIT
based on Eric's comment:

And here's using the black piece from JohnnyB's tweak:

Pair this with a 12:12 gear pair, and you can bring your axles back to whole stud boundaries

@Eric Thanks. I've added a picture to illustrate your comment...

+1 for resourcefulness & inspiration :)

I felt my original answer got messy.  The simplest answer is that you already had it.  I experimented with variations of your 12T/24T build and experienced varying degrees of the stiffness you mentioned.  It became evident that the location of the gears was affecting how much the side pieces were pinching the gears even though the actual gear mesh remained well within tolerances.  Stabilizing the brackets, thus the distance between them, eliminated any and all stiffness.

I also threw together a few more 1:2 ratio gear configurations for reference:

Inspired by the design from Yoshihito Isogawa posted by Uli, I couldn't resist tweaking it in an attempt to make it stronger and easier to build off of.

Inspired by the answer that Eilon gave regarding Technic chain, I evidently proved myself wrong and came up with this.

Another solution to consider (although it only makes sense in certain scenarios) is to use a differential. It naturally creates a 2:1 ratio, but if your mechanism doesn't require one then it's kinda bulky and silly to introduce one with a fixed input. But if you have one involved, just swapping around how you're using the inputs and housing can introduce a 2:1 ratio where you didn't have one before.
I did this today designing a mechanism for a clamshell excavator. Turning one crank extends both lines at the same rate, turning another crank keeps one line fixed while adjusting the second. But I wanted a block-and-tackle on the suspension line, meaning it would need to turn twice as fast. Just changing how I used the differential got me that ratio for free.
Here's an illustration of the basic concept - the differential housing will rotate at half the rate of the yellow shaft. Like I said, silly and bulky, but could be useful in the right situation.

Adding a picture of your solution would greatly improve your answer.

Consider using a chain with any two gears that have a 2:1 ratio. The chain also helps preserve direction of rotation, if that's important in your case. The chain could even drive other gears if needed (like the serpentine belt in a car).
Here's a diagram:

(I wasn't sure how to make a chain appear, nor axles, but I think it's clear.)

Lego chain, while fine in some applications, is often temperamental with high torque and high speed.  It is especially bad, in my experience, when used on the 8T gear.

Welcome to Bricks.SE! A chain could be a possible solution, though it does have its limits as noted by @JohnnyB Thanks for your contribution!

Agreed it has limitations, but no torque requirement of any kind was specified. Hopefully this helps someone.

I should have mentioned that since the chain doesn't work on beveled gears, the 8T/16T combination for a 2:1 would be the only option.  Because Lego chain can't seat properly on a 8T gear, it's doesn't take hardly any resistance to slip.  I physically built this to make sure I had remembered correctly before commenting.  I'm not saying you're wrong, it does "work" in a sense,  it just slips so easy that it really limits it's usefulness.  Apologies if I came off brash, it wasn't my intention.

No worries, I re-read my comment and would say the same about my own text :) I do realize now that my suggestion might be appropriate "for emergency use only"!

You might find the last bit of my new answer of interest ;)

Your latest bit is.... insane!  I think it's worth putting it in its own answer even.

You are welcome to add it to your answer as an example if you would like, no worries on my part :)


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Is there a database of images of LEGO pieces without a background?
For a project I am working on, I need pictures of individual LEGO pieces, but with a transparent background. Does such a database exist?

I was unable to find any sites with a decent database of images in the file format you are looking for.  I don't know what your experience is with image formats or what type of related editing software you may have access to that could help you obtain them yourself.
 If the list of parts isn't extensive then manually converting them is an option if you have the knowledge and software.  There are a lot of sites like Rebrickable & Brickset that have an excellent database of parts with neutral backgrounds that would make a crop & conversion fairly easy.  If there is a pre-existing database available that someone else answers with, I too will benefit from your question.
I did find this site that has online functionality and has the tool you need to convert pictures.  I tried it out first to make sure it worked and it certainly does.
https://www194.lunapic.com/editor/
Here is an example of the trial I did with a picture from Brickset. Hovering over them should show you the different file extensions. (Win 8.1 w/Chrome it's on lower left corner of window) You can't really tell the difference unless you click on the pictures and/or save them.

As a last resort you could add them (part# & color) to your question. I would be willing to convert them for you, just not sure how to get them to you as this Q & A format would be inappropriate.

One good way to share more of these would be in a github repo.

@chicks - Duly noted, thanks for the idea.

Excellent, thanks to the link you provided, I can take it from here. :)


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Cutting Lego-compatible studs, +-axle holes?
TL;DR: Advice on how to machine/refine studs and +-axle holes on home made Lego-compatible parts.
I've been really enjoying designing and 3D-printing my own Lego-compatible custom parts to supplement my collection of official Lego parts. But I'm finding it very challenging to get a half-decent fit.
Round axle holes are OK, a 3/16" imperial drill bit seems to be perfect. So I print 'em a little small and drill them out with a handheld pin vise to get a really nice smooth bore.
I'm having a much harder time with studs (knobs) which I simply have not found a good way to print slightly oversize and machine down neatly. So I'd love some ideas.
I'm also looking for suggestions on how to make "+"-axle holes that deliver a satisfying fit. I know the official parts have small "ramps" on the edges to give a better friction fit, which isn't very practical for me to make. But right now I'm stuck filing out the axle holes by hand, which is a slow, difficult and inaccurate process. Any advice on a good way to cut or trim them would be extremely welcome.
At this point I cannot achieve the dimensional accuracy required to get a really good fit straight off the print bed, though I'm working on that too. So I'm relying on erring on the side of too much material then removing material in post-processing to get the desired fit.
Related engineering.stackexchange.com post

From what little I know about 3D printing, you're going to have to use an extremely small nozzle to achieve the accuracy (aka tight tolerances) you need for the "lego" parts you're printing.  I also understand that this drastically adds to the time of each print, but would save you the time of drilling, sanding, etc.  Sorry I couldn't be more helpful.

Better yet, search the site - https://bricks.stackexchange.com/search?q=3d+printing


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My EV3 program will not run despite clicking on the program from the brick
This is a new EV3 Education Core Set. I have made a simple move forward command using the Lego Mindstorm EV3 Students Edition and downloaded it into the EV3 brick.  However when I press the program in the brick, nothing happens, not even a loading screen. When connected to the computer and the program is there, I just can't run it. How do I troubleshoot this?

Is the EV3 connected to your computer? Do you hear the sound on the EV3 when the download is done? Can you share a screenshot of your program?

Hello I have clarified your question, it is connected and there is a sound.

Without seeing your program, I can only guess, but if there are no blocks that wait for something to happen before continuing, the program will stop right away. For example if your program only has a Motor On block, it will seem as if nothing happens because this block does not wait before continuing to the next block. If there is no next block, the program ends.

You said that you did a simple move forward command. Is that the only thing you did? If so, then basically the program sees your "move forwards" and starts up the motors. It moves on to the next brick- but that's the end. If there are no bricks left, it terminates the program (stopping everything: including the motors). This all happens within milliseconds, so the motor doesn't even have a chance to start moving, and to you, it appears as if the program didn't do anything.
td;lr to fix this just make your program wait before ending. Like, "wait until <touch sensor [pressed]>" or "wait (5) seconds".

I don't own the EV3, so unfortunately I can't help you with first-hand experience.  Here is a link to the LEGO site containing videos with everything you should need to know to get started.
Getting Started with LEGO® MINDSTORMS® Education EV3
Based on my experience with Mindstorms NXT, if you are sure the program is done correctly then make sure you chose the correct ports that your motors are plugged into.


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Determining the age and value of old NIB Lego sets
I have several old Lego sets, new in box.  Maybe 20 years old or more.  How to determine the age and value of these old Lego sets?

I would suggest going to Bricklink and entering the set numbers in.  You will find the information on the sets you have and, if it isn't extremely rare, a price guide with information on how much the set has sold for in the past and how much it's currently selling for.
Bricklink: https://www.bricklink.com/v2/main.page
There is a lot of information on this site that you may find useful, here is a link to one of the more recent inquiries with an answer and more information.
Advice on selling a lot of Lego?

An alternative to using BrickLink for checking resale values is to use BrickPicker. BrickPicker bases its “current value” on Sold prices from EBay, which sees larger traffic than BrickLink. You do need to count on paying for shipping, and paying 13% of the revenue (including shipping costs) to EBay and Paypal. BrickLink charges significantly less, and shipping is paid for by the buyer.
If you have a large list of LEGO sets you are seeking to valuate, BrickPicker offers a bulk lot evaluation tool which saves you time.

Ebay definitely gets more overall traffic than bricklink, but do we have any evidence that ebay moves more LEGO's than bricklink?  I've used ebay for years, but I'd rather get LEGO stuff from bricklink given the community and the reliability.  I know that I shouldn't generalize from myself too often, but I'd still be surprised if ebay sold more than bricklink.

Fair point, but Bricklink is only known in AFOL circles, while EBay is globally known. Many people use Amazon and EBay during the Holiday season, and LEGO sells quite fast during those months. That’s what I was hinting at.

I would wager that Bricklink has more Lego transactions, but because of the frequency of bulk sales, Ebay sells more pieces.  Then you slipped Amazon in there for some reason... ?  ;)


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Unable to change program name in EV3 IDE
My students are having a weird problem in the EV3 IDE. When we try to change the program name, in the IDE, the name reverts to program.
As an example, if the student is creating several programs, such as 1-2, 1-3 ... they click on the + button to create a new program. They then select that new tab named "program x." Then overwrite that word with something like 1-3 to indicate chapter one, program three.
However, after clicking on the workspace, the name of the program reverts to, program x.
This is not consistent, sometimes using an underscore instead of a dash works, but none of this is consistent. I would appreciate suggestions in regard to what I am doing wrong.

I believe this only happens when there is already a program with the same name.
If you start a new project and add 3 new programs named 1-1, 1-2 and 1-3, it works as expected. But if you try to add a 4th program named 1-1, 1-2 or 1-3, then the name will revert back to the default name because there is already another program with the same name.


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Which set is this 2017 bag 3 with dark red and grey pieces from?
I'm trying to find out what set this is from.  I'm having a really hard time looking this up QR code 6171967.

The info on the bag is about the bag itself and isn't specific to the kit it came in. the 2017 refers to the bag design.

Judging from the minifig torso and the selection of pieces in the bag I believe you have bag 3 from set 76104 The Hulkbuster Smash-Up from 2018.


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Can you tell me where this Mega Bloks part is from?
I found this part and was wondering what set it's from, thanks!

Can you provide some more angles and confirm 100% it's Mega Bloks please.

Can't swear its mega Bloks but it as a number like others mega Bloks I own AM02077 and fits them

The additional pictures are helpful, thank you.  Mega Bloks are often very difficult to ID because of the limited resources available.  We'll do our best ;)

@ Mathieu.  You said It has a number like other MBs you own. Please give pictures of a few blocks that share this number, so we can cross reference their sets.  Also give pictures of how this piece connects to other MB pieces.  I see a box of parts in the background.  Did this piece come together with those in the box of parts?  If so, dump the box and give up a snap shot of the pieces.  THX,

well it is surely mega becuase its size

it also looks like a frame part at the start of a car you know the decration pece


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1 x 2 brick with square hole on top identification
Hoping somebody can help identify this part. It's a 1 x 2 brick, but has a square hole on one side.  Many a part has got me stuck, but rebrickable has helped me many times.   Can't seem to find this one.

I've never seen a brick like this, very interesting! I am wondering if it might be a non-production prototype piece.  The bricks' profile looks exactly like brick# 989, but missing the "finger top" of course.

Like @JohnnyB commented, this is the lower part of 76385 Hinge Brick 1 x 2 Locking with Single Finger On Top:

That's exactly what I commented already, 989 is one of the alternate part numbers.  I didn't see any evidence in the photo that it had been forced apart, and the scratches on the exposed surface suggest it's been this way for a long time.  What is your guess on how it came to be?

Either a manufacturing error, or breakage after purchase. The first is more probable though, as I imagine any force strong enough to break the "finger" would damage the base as well.

@JohnnyB I'm terribly sorry for this misunderstanding. I researched and wrote my answer without reading your comment and later on was in a hurry so did not consider upvoting the comment. I'll try to rectify this as far as I can.

is there a specific reason this is made out two parts?

@htmlcoderexe since the assembly of sub-parts is a complex and expensive operation, I assume the alternative was considered to be even more complex and expensive. A probable reason is the complexity of the mould halves, of which the side including the "finger" would have to have two moving sub-parts for forming the circular cavities on the sides. Forming the finger sub-part as a separate unit allows both sub-parts to be moulded by a simple two-part mould without any moving components. If it's still not clear, please ask a new question, so that pictures can be added to explain the process.

@zovits I think I understand, the "finger" piece is molded "sideways" while the brick is molded "upright" and then they're combined?

@htmlcoderexe exactly, that's what I suspect. Note however, that I don't work for Lego, have no relevant experience in injection moulding, and can only speculate based on what I have read and watched about the topic.

@zovits you think it would be a good question for this site to ask what you suggested initially? or did the topic more or less exhaust itself in the comments here?

@htmlcoderexe There is not much more that could be said about the topic, but as a top level Q&A it would be better manageable than a comment stream. IMO the question itself would be on topic, as we explicitly do allow questions about "The history of The LEGO Group or elements", even if such manufacturing practices and decisions are impossible to know with certainty for anyone not working for TLG and probably non-disclosable for anyone who does.

Well, between my comment and zovits "seconding" the idea, I think it's safe to assume we've established what this part "was".  I did a lot of searching earlier online, looking through people's collections of non-production and prototype rare parts and couldn't find this "version" of the part.  So, whatever the story of how it came to be, I would certainly consider this to be a rare keepsake.  Here is a photo of the inside of these bricks with the square insert from the "finger" easily identifiable.

I couldn't bring myself to attempt a disassembly since I apparently don't have many of these and they aren't the more common color of Black and Dark Gray.  Perhaps Rin Rio-Oki will happen upon this question and take the initiative of dissecting one?  Fingers crossed ;)


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Port Splitter for EV3 motors
I have searched all over the internet for EV3 port splitters for motors. I have got 4 large motors and 2 medium motors and I do not have enough motor ports for them all. I can usually only find sensor port splitters which is not what I am looking for. I am looking for a MOTOR one. I have found one but I am not 100% sure if it is what I am looking for or not. Would anybody out there be able to tell me if I would be able to use this
port splitter for NXT Digital Sensors?
I am also don't want to buy a
Multiplexer for NXT/EV3 Motors because it is too expensive (and I need 2 of them).
If the one I mentioned above which might be a sensor one is not right can somebody out there give me a suggestion on a cheap and efficient port splitter for Lego EV3 motors?

Your question is a little unclear.  It sounds like you figured out what you needed but don't want to spend that much money?  Can you please clarify what exactly it is you're asking?  What sort of functionality are you looking for with the motors?

It depends on what you're doing, but for this purpose the Mindsensors motor multliplexer is the device you are looking for - not the port splitter.

A multiplexer (in this context) allows you to independently control/communicate with multiple devices over a single port, one at a time. A motor multiplexer will also need an external power source because a single EV3/NXT motor port cannot power multiple motors simultaneously.
The Mindsensors port splitter simply joins the 6 wires from each plug to each other plug. This is generally less useful, because all connected devices simultaneously share the same power and signals. Analog sensors will behave unpredictably, I2C sensors might work (if the device supports reassigning its I2C address, and if you keep under the EV3 port's current limits). Motors will all receive power simultaneously, none of the rotation sensors will work, and you risk burning out the EV3's motor port.

I'm failing to see where you added any information beyond what was already given in the previous answer.

@JohnnyB Are you saying that to me or the person above

According to this line from the description,

"It also has a pass-through Digital Sensor Port to connect more
  sensors/multiplexers. (On this sensor port, you can daisy-chain more
  multiplexers to connect additional motors.)"

...you would only need the multiplexer and a power source like the "6-AA Battery Holder with EV3 Mount; Model: BBX003" they have listed.
The first part you listed would work in a sense, but doesn't sound as useful.  From the PDF:

"Up to three motors can be attached to SPLIT-Nx-v2. Turning motor port
  ON through the NXT program will turn all the attached motors ON at
  once. This is useful if you need to run all motors at once, however
  independent control of each attached motor is not possible and encoder
  values of the motors can not be used. i.e. rotation control feature of
  motor blocks can not be used. Also note that the power supplied to the
  motors will be limited by the power coming from the NXT brick."


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non-LEGO Tank, Marine Corps - Can anyone identify set?
Can anyone identify this tank? I'm looking for instruction to this set. I also found a strange door.

That tank doesn't look like anything LEGO would make. The frame of the door looks wider than what LEGO makes and the colours also look wrong, so I don't think any of that is LEGO.

Vaguely related: Are there any army-related LEGO toys? and Does the LEGO Group condone war toys?

The picture of the vehicle isn't very clear.  It appears to be dark green and missing several pieces.  This makes an already difficult to identify set nearly impossible unfortunately.  The dark green color and apparent military theme strongly suggest this isn't a Lego brand set, as already mentioned by Henrik.
What is left of the vehicle looks like some sort of APC or IAV possibly.  I spent some time searching and couldn't find building sets with the Marine Corps sticker on them.  It is very likely this was made by one of the many companies that make Lego compatible military sets, and even if we knew the exact set, it is highly unlikely that building instructions could be found.  To try to help you figure out what's missing on your set I've included a couple pictures to give you an idea of what your set might have looked like.

As for the door, very little can be determined from the picture.


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Power Function IR Remote always emitting after putting batteries
My PF IR remote led indication light is constantly on after I put in new batteries. It stay on without me touching anything. A quick check with my phone camera showed that the IR emitter is emitting. It sends signals to the receiver which activates the motor even when the channel on the remote and receiver are not matching. Is there anything I can do other than buying a new remote?

The Lego Company is usually very good about replacing broken and defective parts for free.  In the case of expensive electronic parts such as this, in my experience, they will sometimes request you send them the broken/defective one.  If this is the case, they will make it easy for you and send everything you need to do so with your replacement.  Because this part is still made/sold, there is a good chance they will make it right.
If this solution doesn't work out for you then you could try fixing it.  I would recommend taking it apart, if you have the tools, and look for any obvious signs of contaminants, over-heating, breakage, etc.  If there aren't any obvious issues then try storing the electronics in a bag of rice for a couple days to absorb any moisture in them.  If none of these things work then you are probably going to need a new one.


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Looking for instructions to Mega Bloks "Blok Bots" sets
I need instructions for Mega Bloks "Blok Bots" set 9375.  I have parts for another one, but I don't know which one. If I get instructions for 1 or 2 sets I'll be able to figure it out.

The instructions for the set you are looking for can be found here:
https://support.megabrands.com/media/playbooks/9375.pdf
Here are some instructions for some other sets from that series:

https://support.megabrands.com/media/playbooks/9392.pdf
https://support.megabrands.com/media/playbooks/9391.pdf
https://support.megabrands.com/media/playbooks/9374.pdf
https://support.megabrands.com/media/playbooks/9371.pdf
https://support.megabrands.com/media/playbooks/9344.pdf
https://support.megabrands.com/media/playbooks/9343.pdf
https://support.megabrands.com/media/playbooks/9341.pdf
https://support.megabrands.com/media/playbooks/9331.pdf

For whatever reason, the availability of instructions for these sets is inconsistent.

"page not found"


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LEGO Set identification?
What does this piece go to?  I bought a lot of LEGO pieces with no instructions and think there may be two sets. I have this mask, or head piece, that is part of a set that I want to look up instructions for.

It appears to be part# 64261 from set# 8983, "Vorox".

https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=64261&name=Bionicle%20Mask%20Vorox&category=%5BBionicle,%20Kanohi%20Mask%5D#T=C&C=2

https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?S=8983-1#T=S&O={%22iconly%22:0}
Instructions can be found here:
https://www.lego.com/biassets/bi/4547677.pdf

I was guessing Bionicle myself, but sometimes the category on bricklink surprises me.

Looks like a good fit for an original Predator too, nice

@chicks - My oldest loved Bionicle growing up, he still has his collection together and on display.  I don't own a single one, but have their likeness engraved into my memory :)