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Identification of rare (?) pieces
Recently, I bought a large LEGO collection in which, during the sorting, I found some pieces I'm completely unable to identify. Moreover, seeing some of them I doubt if they are LEGO at all (could be parts of an assembly though).
Here is a photo of the unidentified pieces:

I hope you can recognize them, please let me know if more photos would be necessary.
Higher resolution photos of #2 with the cup for scale (I really doubt it is a LEGO item but it might be a part of a motor or something):

Can we use a 1x1 brick for comparison?  I have no cups in my collection.

11 is a plastic ring with a single threaded hole on one side.

1 is a pin used to hold train track pieces together during shipping. It can be discarded but some people find uses for it since it fits in a. minifig's hands.
Many of the others are official Lego as can be seen by the brand name printed on them. On the large pieces you should be able to see an ID number printed underneath which will help you out. I'll work through identifying some of the others.
3: Bionicle Gear 8 Tooth with Rhotuka Spinner Rod 2.5L
4: Appendage Spiky / Bionicle Spine / Seaweed / Plant Vine
5: Modified 2x2 Racing Driver, no head
6: Bar 1L with Top Stud and 2 Side Studs (credit to Victorious Victini)
7: Train Coupling New
8: Bionicle 2x3 Axle Connector with Tooth
9: Hinge Brick 1 x 2 Locking with 1 Finger Top
12: Leg Skeleton with Black Square Foot
13: Bar 1 x 8 with Brick 1 x 2 Curved Top End (most likely this newer version, but there are some older ones as well) (credit to Victorious Victini)
14: Fairing, 1x2 Stepped with Two Pins
15: Batwing
16: Modified 1x4 with Angled Tubes
17: Not Lego
18: Fire hose nozzle
19: Bionicle Weapon Cordak Ammo
20: Road Sign Clip-on 2 x 2 Square with Curved Blue Lines and Small Black Squares Pattern
21: Bat-a-rang
22: LEGO Minifig, Weapon Bladed Claw (mostly from Wolverine)
23: Horn Large
24: Minifig, Utensil Space Scanner Tool. (credit to Rin Rio-Oki)

#17 which is listed as "Not Lego" looks awfully close to the color scheme used for several flame parts, though I can't find any shape matches and they're generally red on the bottom. Is it known to be a specific kind of non-LEGO piece?

I am pretty sure I threw out a few of those from my last bulk purchase because they had space for a Lego logo but did not have one, so I assumed they were off brand.

I'm fairly sure #17 is from Mega Bloks, in at the very least the Dragons sets. There is a smallish one shown (not the big ones at the top, closer to the middle) in https://dragonsuniverse.fandom.com/wiki/Yulmar?file=Yul_b4.JPG.

I found a few more:
6: Ø3.2 Shaft With Cored Knob
13: Brick With Shaft 1X8X1

Thanks for adding those, I've added them into Craig's answer so that we can have a single definitive accepted answer :)

A Few More:
02:  LegoTechnic Driving Ring Extension.
24: Minifig, Utensil Space Scanner Tool.

The 24th is a match, but the second one's not. I'll upload a closer photo soon.

Agreed:  Mine looks too big.  Could the OP post more pics with the pieces pushed over, so we can get a sense of depth?

Thanks for finding that Rin Rio-Oki, I've added 24 to Craig's answer to help towards a single definitive answer :)


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Can anyone identify what kind of block these hinged blocks are?
They all link together. I added a normal Lego brick to compare size.
I have had no luck with Google.

Those are quite interesting aren't they? Sadly I've no idea what they are, but it's possible someone else might...

Woah! I haven't thought of these in years... Flashback to FLEXIBLOCKS!!!

source: Stack Exchange

license: Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/

sort: votes


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I have a LEGO minifigure and I'm trying to determine the value of it
I have a minifigure and I am trying to determine it's value - I'd like to know whether it's worth holding on to it for longer, or if I would get a reasonable price for it now.

Welcome to Bricks @Sarah1973, and glad to help! If you've found an answer helpful you can up-vote them and if it's answered your question sufficiently you can accept it with the tick ;)

At the moment (12/09/2018) there are a few other people offering that figure for sale on BrickLink, varying from £110 to £230 (actual asking prices are in various currencies listed on the results page).
More importantly however, is the Price Guide page - from there you can see that one figure apparently was bought this month for about £72, however in July one was purchased for around £108, while another was purchased for about £83.
From that, you could probably get a sale at around £100, but it might take a while to sell.

You are making a good point, the minifig seems to be very valuable now. However, this does not answer the OP's much more important question regarding the development of the price. I can imagine that the value of this particular minifig will not decrease because it will never be re-released. But this is speculation, therefore no answer, just a comment.

That is true, it's price is likely to increase due to increased rarity, but that will conversely reduce the number of people willing to pay the asking price...

all_licenses: Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/


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Stuck on 42066 Air Race Jet model B
I've successfully built model A of the Air Race Jet but with model B I've got stuck on page 7, instruction 8. How do you do that?

Nice job finishing Model "A"!
As for Model "B", known as "Private Jet", follow this link and head on over to Youtuber THINK LOUDER's speed build of this model.

First, Mute the video.
Second, Pause the video.
Third, Open the setting for video playback, which is the "Gear" icon
in the bottom right hand corner of the video, to slow down the speed to "0.25".
Forth, Play the video and skip to minute 1:47 into the video.
Fifth, and finally, Watch how this guy builds up until minute 2:04 into the video, which is where you are stuck, page 7, instruction 8.

Good luck! You can do it Bro!


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Why do I not have the Brick Datalog app in the LEGO Mindstorms EV3 V1.10E firmware?

I realize a similar question has been asked (you can view it here) however mine is slightly different.

I have a Lego Mindstorms EV3 Home Set 31313 and due to recommendation, I installed Lego Mindstorms Education EV3 Student Edition. I later changed my firmware on my EV3 to V1.09E. The next time I updated my firmware, however, I was unsure that the software was not installing the latest version so I ended up installing V1.10E using EV3 Manager. So it was to my surprise that the Brick Datalog app had disappeared!
Is there any way for me to get my app back without, of course, performing a downgrade and removing the ability for me to use Microsoft PXT?
TIA!

Interesting insight. I didn't notice that it was missing. (I wonder if there was not enough room in the flash memory for both this and the new MakeCode stuff - or maybe it was just an accident).
I managed to find a hack to get the Brick Datalog program loaded again.

Download this zip file.
Unzip the file.
Open Brick Datalog.ev3 in the EV3 programming software.
Download the project to your EV3.
Open the Memory Browser.

Browse to the Brick Datalog project, then click Download.

Select the Brick Datalog.rbf file (from where you unziped the file in step 2) and click Open.

Close the Memory Browser.
On the EV3 brick, you can now browse to the Brick Datalog project and run the Brick Datalog program (it won't be with the rest of the "apps" as in previous versions of the firmware).

How it works:
The brick apps use the same format as user-created programs on the EV3, so I just took the Brick Datalog app from the ev3dev lms2012-compat project (which is identical to the official LEGO version, but easier to get to). Then I created a new empty project in the EV3 Education software and imported all of the images and sounds. The software doesn't let you import .rbf files (the actual program), which is why it has to be downloaded separately via the Memory Browser.
I haven't tested this extensively, but it does seem to work.

It's certainly not an issue with storage or memory limitations. EV3s doesn't really suffer from those like the RCXs or NXTs do. Excellent workaround though!

Thank you very much for finally warning me that my EV3 lacked this app for so many years! What I mean is, My EV3 NEVER had the Brick Datalog app on it. Right when I pulled it out out of its amazon box, I immediately explored the features of the brick and I recall knowing that there was no such app. Especially before I updated to the latest firmware, it still was never there.

Erm... the Brick Datalog project simply does not exist! I can't find it, so I can't follow the instructions above.

Step 1 provides a link to download the required files.


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How can I find overlapping bricks in LeoCAD?
I've just started using LeoCAD to generate instructions for a model I want to share.  I've been able to get it working despite the sparse tutorials.  But in looking at my results so far I see that I've got an extra part in one step.  I'm pretty sure this is a left over from duping the same part over and over again.  One benefit of this is that the part must be overlapping with another part.  How can I find and remove this extraneous part?

The author of LeoCAD also helped me work around a bug I was experiencing to get this far.  https://github.com/leozide/leocad/issues/255  Kudos for excellent free software support.

I'm not aware of a way to do this in LeoCAD directly, but assuming that your overlapping brick is an exact duplicate (same element, same position, same rotation, etc) it will show up as a duplicate line in the LDraw file. Something as simple as this should show you what it is:
uniq -d model.ldr

You could also use any other tool for finding duplicate lines.
If you find a duplicate, it will look something like this:
1 4 -70 -48 -40 1 0 0 0 1 0 0 0 1 3005.DAT

The 3rd, 4th, and 5th items are the x,y, and z coordinates, which you can use to track down duplicate elements and remove them inside LeoCAD. Alternatively, you can remove all but one of the duplicate lines from the file directly.


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Hacking the Bluetooth motor in the motorized LEGO® DC Super Heroes 76112 App-Controlled Batmobile
I'd like to hack the receiver / motor so I can control it from my Mac (or a PC if there is no other way).
Recently LEGO released an app-controlled Batmobil - product detailed are here:
https://shop.lego.com/en-US/App-Controlled-Batmobile-76112
The Bluetooth receiver (LEGO Part #6253628) can connect to an app, in our case, an iPhone. I tried to see if it was visible in the Bluetooth elements to connect to, and nope... I cannot also find any MAC address on the receiver itself.
Any hint or clue?
Edit #1
I am looking for a way to connect to the Bluetooth receiver and be able to program it in Python (or C/Java...), but not a GUI.

I think I read Boost and Power Up have the same protocol, so this might help: https://github.com/JorgePe/BOOSTreveng

There's a node.js library that can connect to the Move Hub and control attached peripherals:
https://github.com/nathankellenicki/node-poweredup
This should allow you to write scripts and programs that can control the motor from your Mac.

This is pretty much what I was looking for. I have to see if I can connect to the BT this way as my Mac did not see it, which was the first issue. Thanks for the hint.

Good luck! Let us know how it goes.

If having difficulty connecting, check that you are using  ‘Bluetooth Low Energy’  to connect- if Your Mac isn’t using this protocol, you can get a dongle to use this.

Check out with nRF Connect app -> if you can find it with it, you can read services and characteristics of this lego peripheral and based on that control it. Good luck!


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Help to identify a small tube part
I'd like some help identifying the black parts circled in the photo.

It's a piece of 3mm rigid hose. It looks something like this:

That particular piece must have been cut from a larger piece, as the smallest it has ever come is 3L (3 studs) and never black at that size.
It's debated if cutting tube pieces is a purist thing to do or not.

Cutting rigid hose is allowed in my opinion as The Sears Tower Architecture model (21003) had it as an actual step in the instructions.

It was the Space Needle set I believe, 21003-1


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Stacking motors on the Powered Up hub or Boost hub
The way the Boost/Powered Up connectors are designed, it's not possible to have multiple motors on the same output of a hub like it was possible with 9V or Power functions. However, since I only want to stack the straightforward M-motors, the electronics should be simple enough for a DIY solution. Does anyone have a tutorial or pointers?

All you should have to do is connect pins 1 and 2 between the two motors. One motor will have all six wires connected and serve as the primary in order to give the hub something that it can properly identify. The second motor can simply piggyback off of the primary and share control voltages that are meant for the primary motor. Essentially, you can leave one set of identification circuitry in place, and then wire just the motors in parallel.
I'm not sure if Powered Up compatible connectors are available anywhere, but it's not too hard to open up the motors and connect to them that way. Here's what it looked like testing this out:

I paired pins 1 and 2 here and things worked as expected.

Philo has some more info on the cabling

There really isn't any easy way to do this at the moment. I would suggest buying plugs and making a simple port splitter, but I don't think there's currently any place to purchase the parts.
The best you can do involves (permanently) splicing the wires of the two motors together, using a single plug for both of them. With only the M motors this shouldn't cause electrical problems but having two motors permanently attached to a single plug is obviously less than ideal.

Not even sure that would work, I think there's a resistance between a couple of wires so the hub detects an M-motor attached. Obviously, attaching ALL wires would cause that resistance to drop by half (parallel circuit)

@MichaelVerschaeve I'm not very familiar with the boost system. Is it possible to use a motor at all if it doesn't "register" by having the proper resistance?

I think so, haven't tested. The Powered up hub uses the resistance for example to know if a train motor or M-motor is attached. When using the remote, the train motor is driven gradually and continuously. You use the buttons to set the speed. When using an M-motor, the motor is driven in Bang-Bang mode, which means the motor is entirely on or off depending if the buttons are pressed or not.


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Please help identify a set with bag of tan, white, grey, and light-blue 1x1 and 1x2 bricks?

Help me identify what set this small bag goes to?

Recently, I bought a used 10214 London Tower Bridge. It came with all parts in one single bag. However, looking at the brick types and colors on the picture I would guess it is from 10214.


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Please help identify what set this bag belongs to, white windows and fences, and tan circles

Bag indicates that it was made in 2011.

The year printed on the bag typically has more to do with the design/production of the bag, than the set it is used for.

This one is definitely from 10214 London Tower Bridge. I only have a used set that didn't have the original bags, but all parts and colors match perfectly.

The Technic Wedge Belt Wheel (Pulley) only comes in tan in 5 sets and the only one of those sets that has more than 2 (which your bag clearly does) is 10214 Tower Bridge.


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Help me identify what set this bag of mostly white tiles and panels belongs to

Can anyone tell me what set this bag belongs to?  It could be 2011 but not sure.

Have you tried to check the set inventory of the 10214 Tower Bridge? It seems that you have several bags from that set.

As Aziraphale hinted at in a comment, this is a bag from Tower Bridge (10214).

You can see this bag clearly in unboxing videos.


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LEGO Power Function PF 2.0 specification
Does anyone have the new Power Function 2.0 specification or pin out?

I don't think an official one has been released, but there are some people who have looked into reverse engineering it. Here's one example I found: https://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?/forums/topic/162288-powered-up-a-tear-down/

Why is this tagged with powered-up, are we not confusing power functions with powered up here?

I'm not sure exactly what you are looking for in terms of a spec, but here's the pinout from the Eurobricks thread mentioned by Alexander O'Mara with some help from this post:
Pin 1 - Motor
Pin 2 - Motor
Pin 3 - GND (0v)
Pin 4 - VCC (3.3v)
Pin 5 - ID 1 (UART TX for active devices)
Pin 6 - ID 2 (UART RX for active devices)

The basic spec for motors is that they are given continuous 3.3V power on pins 3 and 4, voltages to drive the motor on pins 1 and 2, and pins 5 and 6 are used to identify the type of motor that is attached. For the basic motors, I believe that this is simply a known resistance between pins 5 and 6.

LPF2 is also known as Powered Up - ref.
The Bluetooth hub is documented: https://github.com/lego/lego-ble-wireless-protocol-docs . This carries a large gh-pages branch & corresponding web site.
Philo also has useful information.
This doesn't answer the original question but I believe anyone searching for info will benefit from the connection.


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What is inside the LEGO Powered Up M motor?
What is inside the M motor in the new Powered Up system? How is it different from the older Power Functions motor?

Let's take a look. The first step to disassembling the motor is removing the small Philips screw on the bottom:

Now there are a pair of gray tabs in the back white section that we need to release. I found it easiest to cut them down with a knife. Once those are free, the white section slides backwards away from the motor. Try to do this gently, as there are several gears inside that may go flying and be difficult to find.

The motor will be left in the back section.

It isn't fixed in place, so you can simply slide it free of the housing.

We can see that the PCB contains only a few very simple components. I believe that the larger element in the middle is a resettable fuse, and the smaller one on the left is a capacitor across the motor pins to minimize electrical noise. The tiny black element on the right is a 2.2kOhm resistor between pins 5 and 6 that allows the hub to identify this as an M motor.
We also have the gray section of the motor:

Down in the end, there is a planetary gearbox that slides out:

The gearbox simply slides open:

It contains two sets of planetary gears:

Overall, this is very similar to the PF M motor with the addition of a small PCB and a resistor to facilitate the component detection used by Powered Up. It's worth noting that this is the same motor used in WeDo 2.0.

Question:  The picture shows the tiny black speck on the right side sitting  between pins 3/4.  Does the board's circuitry somehow make the connectivity flow between pins 5/6?

@RinRio-Oki Yes. The brighter green lines on the PCB are the conductive traces. You can see that there are two traces coming off the resistor solder pads connecting them to pins 5 and 6.

Nice write-up. @RinRio-Oki the reason they'd do that is the resistor and other surface mount components would be placed by a machine and reflow soldered in an oven first, then someone would solder the wires on by hand. So they've just put the resistor in the middle and joined it with the PCB tracks so it doesn't get in the way of hand-soldering the wires on.

Yes, a beautiful write-up.  2nd Question: Is there an alternative to the physical cutting of the gray holding tabs?  Does it all snap snugly back together?  I'm not preaching LEGO Puritanism, but the piece isn't common, like say... a 1x1 plate, where I can walk away from a Pick-a-Brick Wall with a few thousand, and not care if I put a string through them for a necklace.  As for Gray Two-tabs, I have to treat it special because of its rarity.  So, would maybe an alternate use of a tiny flat head screwdriver or something to help keep me pure?

@RinRio-Oki There may be cleaner methods of getting this open. I wasn't able to force things apart using a screwdriver. I was afraid I would deform one or both sections of the plastic if I used more force, so I decided to just cut down the tabs a bit. The motor still holds together just fine. Remember, this section is also screwed in place from the bottom, so you don't have to worry about it falling off.

Thanks for the write-up! I teach kids using WeDo 2.0 but now we have about 20 motors that are not working well anymore. I've tried to re-solder the ribbon cable and that's worked on some of them. But we're seeing that, after 5-years of usage, the motors themselves seem to be getting worn out. So I would like to replace them and want to make sure i get the right ones. Are these just simple 3v DC hobby motors? They look like them. I've looked online and I don't see a motor driver or anything in the circuit. Can anyone recommend a replacement motor to get these working for the kids again? Thank y


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Power Function 2.0 Pin out
Does anyone have the pin out spec for Power Functions 2.0?
Have tried Google and Lego Ed for answers
Is there a source for the connector and receptacle?
I could not find any data on the connector

This feels very similar to what you asked about in you last question: https://bricks.stackexchange.com/questions/10364/lego-power-function-pf-2-0-specification Did you accidentally ask this twice, or am I not understanding the difference between the two questions?

I posted it first to the Power-Funcitons section, but on further review of the entries, i would like to post it on the Powered-up tag, as most responses seem to be there rather than a Power-Functions PF2.0 which does not exist as a tag.

That makes sense. I've retagged your other question as powered-up, and I'll mark this one as a duplicate.


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What is the best way to sell sealed LEGO sets?
My kids have inherited a massive LEGO collection. 90%+ is in mint condition, still sealed. There are thousands of sealed boxes - currently kept in storage. There are plenty of open sets that the boys will keep, but the bulk we are looking to sell. What is the best way to do this? Any advice would be appreciated. A large amount of sets are Star Wars.

Possible duplicate of What is the best way to sell complete LEGO sets?

I vote to keep this one open, since TJM is asking mainly about new and sealed sets in perfect condition. This excludes all efforts to check for completeness etc.

I've edited both this question and the linked possible duplicate to make it clear that this question is for NIB sets and the other is for open sets.

That sounds good to me.  It seemed like a dupe at first glance, but it was challenging finding the other "one".

If you really have that much (hundreds or more sets to move), you have some options:
Set up a Ebay store:
    Up front cost: None
    Profit: ~80% of net (Ebay takes a cut, Taxes, shipping materials)
    The slow burn option. You will eventually get rid of everything, but it will take some time, and many trips to the post office.
Go rent a table at a local Lego convention:
    Up front cost: probably a few hundred bucks
    Profit: After the booth /table cost, all the money is pretty much yours.
    This will get rid of stuff fast if you go to a sizable convention and you price reasonably. People buy a lot of lego at Lego conventions. You will have to plan this in advance, since tables might require being reserved months in advance.
Find a reliable Lego collector to sell it for you:
    I had a good friend who is an active member of the local Lego community do this for a family who acquired a huge vintage Lego collection. I think he took about a 20% cut and had most of it sold off in a few months. The upside of this approach is that you don't have to do anything but count the money you make. Make sure you get someone who knows what they are doing though. Older collectors are good choices, since they know a lot of the history of sets and themes.
I don't know how good sites liek Bricklink are for selling sets. It is a fantastic place to buy sell loose parts, but I don't know how quickly sets move there.


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Which resistor value is used for which motor in Power Functions 2.0?
Based on the answer here it seems that resistors are used to detect what is plugged in with LEGO Power Functions 2.0.  So which resistor values (or ranges) apply to which motors or other devices?  Are there any values of resistance that lead to "unknown device" errors or something like that?

M Motor (Powered Up/WeDo 2.0)
The M motor has a 2.2kΩ resistor between pins 5 and 6. Pin 6 is connected directly to pin 3.

LED Lights
I don't own any lights yet, but according to this post, they also use a 2.2kΩ resistor, but in this case it is between pins 5 and 3. This pulls ID 1 to ground. Here's the full circuit diagram:

Train motor
The measured resistance between pins 5 and 6 shows an open circuit. Pin 5 is connected directly to VCC, and pin 6 is connected directly to ground.

Other components
I wasn't able to determine any sort of passive identification on any other components (Boost motor and sensors, etc). My guess is that these have an onboard microcontroller and use an active handshake before establishing a data connection.
Summary
M Motor
3 (GND) ─────┐
4 (VCC)      │
5 (ID1) ─2.2k┤
6 (ID2) ─────┘

LED Lights
3 (GND) ─────┐
4 (VCC)      │
5 (ID1) ─2.2k┘
6 (ID2)

Train Motor
3 (GND) ───┐
4 (VCC) ─┐ │
5 (ID1) ─┘ │
6 (ID2) ───┘

Thanks Still wondering if the WeDo 2.0 motor works on 3v or 9v. Not sure what would happen if you plugged a WeDo motor into the Train or Boost Controller. Possibly the WeDo has a DC-DC converter to up the 3v to 9 v for the motors. This may also explain why the batteries on the WeDo 2.0 do not last very long, about 2 - 3 class room use.

I believe WeDo 2.0 steps up the voltage to 5v (http://www.philohome.com/wedo2reverse/cont.htm). Motor power scales with voltage, so the exact voltage used is variable. You can use the WeDo 2.0 motors with the Powered Up hub. This is what powers the Batmobile.


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What is an effective way to clean clear LEGO bricks?
What kind of cleaning products are good and safe to remove smudges and finger prints off clear LEGO parts? Normally I would just use the Clorox wipes. The parts in question are 1x2x2 panels in clear plastic.

Almost all LEGO can be washed with dish soap and warm water (Do not use dish washer soap though, it sometimes contains grit to help grind off dried food. This will scratch your bricks)
Second best option is windex, which isn't too bad for plastics.
I would advise against clorox wipes though. I believe they contain bleach, which while is great for getting things clean, it will react with the ABS plastic.
I tried bleaching some old lego a number of years back, and I soaked the bricks for a day or two and I found that, while they wer very clean, they also slightly expanded as a result of reacting with the bleach. They are very sticky, and are hard to separate now. Additionally, they seem a little harder and less flexible.
Note that this occurred after being immersed in a water bleach mixture for extended time. One swipe of bleach will probably not have much effect, but it shows that it does react with the plastic, so that is why I suggest against it.
Warm water and dish soap cures most problems.


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Can you identify a set containing a zebra and spider minifig?
I have 2 bags of unopened Lego bricks but I cannot determine what set they belong to...bag 2 344R6 and bag 4 344R6. They are probably from Lego Junior. I can tell there is a zebra character minifig and a spider character minifig.

Welcome to Bricks.SE! Can you post a photo of the bags?

I don't think the marking you quote identifies the set, but with pictures we are often able to help.

@Lindsay: It sounds like we have an answer you're happy with.  Could you click the check box by the answer to "accept" it?

Batman baddie ZEEEeeeebra-Man,

and tough gurl TA-TAH-Taaaarantula !!!
From Set 70907-1 Killer Croc Tail-Gator.

You guys are the best! That is it! Thanks so much! I have a very happy 5 year old!

You're welcome Gurl!  Happy to help!


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Can you identify this LEGO Space build from the early 90s?
Can anybody help me identify this LEGO model from this old picture. My son built this around late 80's / early 90's. The closest I can find is the 6956 Stella Recon Voyager set. Same colours and similar pieces. Has he perhaps joined up two sets and made this himself as I cannot find it anywhere. I am looking for parts inventory and instructions. I have a huge box of LEGO pieces I now want to pass on to my grandson. Sorry that the picture is not clearer.

Update:
Thank you for your feedback. Yes, I have managed to download the parts inventory and instructions for 6956. You are correct with 6886. I now definitely remember buying that for our son and those parts are in the box but I'm not too sure about 1968 it doesn't look familiar. I will have to ask my son who now lives abroad. It appears that, at the time the picture was taken, my son might have used his very active 10yr old imagination! Thank you for that info. I am also going to upload the only other picture I have taken from a different angle if this helps further. So, if I could just find out from what model those large black flat 'fins' and other side pieces might be from I think we might have solved the puzzle.

Based on Slope 33 3 x 6 with MTron Logo Print - Red which only comes in 1 set: 6956-1: Stellar Recon Voyager this is the set you already mentioned.

I see a part that looks like: Flexible Hose 8.5L with Tabless Ends (Ends same color as Tube) in trans yellow. which come in several sets. I think it's 1968-1 - Space Expressssic Space 1968-1 as this set also contain some white wedge pieces, which look like used at both sides.

Based on Windscreen 10 x 4 x 2 1/3 Canopy - Trans-Red and Hinge Vehicle Roof Holder 1 x 4 - Blue 6886-1 - Galactic Peace Keeper is also is the collection

The rest parts is a lot harder to identify.


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What kind of mat do you use for running Mindstorm EV3?
Turning EV3 precisely has been a problem. Do you use a certain mat for running EV3 on? Can you tell me what material I need to get the mat printed?

There is not enough information here to answer your question. Can you be more specific? What does your robot look like? What are your tires? What are you trying to accomplish? What have you already tried?

Mats are sometimes used with Mindstorms to create line following bots or for defining more complex tasks.
I can't give great advice on printing a mat for EV3, as I've never done this, but I would imagine that you'd want to be able to print on a large, fairly stiff piece of paper or cardboard. If you're just trying to create a basic line for your robot to follow, you can use a piece of posterboard and then add a line with black tape, markers, paint, etc.
There are several different mats that LEGO has made available for Mindstorms over the years:
https://www.bricklink.com/catalogList.asp?pg=1&catString=246&catType=P&v=1
I believe the most recent is actually the box sleeve in the EV3 kit:

You might want to just purchase one of the officially released mats.

If you are unable to purchase one of these mats or would like to redesign it as you wish, I have created a replica of this mat.


text:
What dark green and lime BIONICLE do I have?

If anybody could tell me what BIONICLE this is I’d greatly appreciate it, it’s driving me mad!

My answer totally springboards off of Alexander "Hawk-Eyes" O'Mara's astute observation of its suspected authenticity.  Nice job Alex.
I looked up BIONICLE knock-offs and got a video that named the brand as "конструктор последний воин", then Google Image searched that phrase for a pic of our Greenie Meanie, and Voila!:

Google translates the Russian/Mongolian to:

"конструктор последний воин":
"Builder of the Last Warrior".
And this guy is named "ЛИЗОРД":
"Lizord" or Lizard.
The toy maker is, "1Toy Растем вместе!":
"1Toy Growing Together!".

There seems to be an entire, Builder of the Last Warrior line, with at least one dedicated community called RUSBIONICLE.

Impressive investigative work! I gave up after a Google image search yielded no results.

Thanks heaps Rin and Alexander! This was kinda surprising, but I was starting to suspect it may have been a knockoff. It just seemed like LEGO quality. Cheers

Thank you for this! This question was keeping me up last night, and I just couldn't find a match. I started suspecting it was a clone, but I'm not familiar with clones for Bionicle sets. Great work by both you and Alexander!

It's not a BIONICLE set or a LEGO set. The pins and axles aren't right for an official LEGO set, so I think this is some random BIONICLE-look-alike set by another brand.
LEGO pins would have a round center, not a flat one:

This axle hole in his hand appear rotated 45 degrees off the LEGO piece that looks like this.

I've never seen a LEGO piece that looked like this:


text:
How can I have EV3 Commander App continue running the motor when I release the slider?
I'd like to control a drawing robot that I am building with EV3 Commander App.
The problem is that EV3 Commander App stops the motor as soon as I release the slider.
Is there an option with EV3 Commander App that allows me to set the speed of a motor such that I don't have to keep my finger on the slider - and keep running when I release it?

The commander app is very limited in it's capabilities. Unfortunately it is not possible to control your own program with the commander app.
I have tried all of the built-in EV3 Commander control pads to see if any of them were suitable. The closest thing I could find to a solution would be to use the 'EV3RSTORM' control pad.
The 'Go', 'Back', 'Left' and 'Right' buttons keep all the motors turned on permanently unless you press stop of change directions. Unfortunately you won't be able to change the variable speed of the motors but you could change the fixed speed with gears.


text:
Help identify this white and medium grey ship section
Can you help identify this ship section from a box of LEGO parts we have now?  It looks like it was in an epic battle.

Based on Engine 3X3X6 in white, this is from 7166-1: Imperial Shuttle

Or as Syberion mentioned it can also be
7264-1: Imperial Inspection

Which has almost the same build. The only difference I could find is the color of the 6 x 12 plates on the bottom of the build.

7166: Dark Gray Plate 6 x 12
7264: Dark Bluish Gray Plate 6 x 12

Based on the photo, I think its Dark Bluish Gary so it's 7264.
If you still have the minifigs for this set they will also tell you which set it is, as 7166 had the yellow faced figures and 7264 had the flesh tone figures.

It could also be from 7264-1: Imperial Inspection
they have the same build

Indeed I stopped looking when I found the first one at brickset.


text:
What sets have been named in a punny way?
I heard speculation that set 40358 "Bean There, Donut That" is the only set that LEGO ever produced where the name of the set is also a joke.  Is that true?
Or are there other sets names that contain a pun or double meaning?

It would make sense that there wouldn't be very many sets with punny names. Jokes tend to be regional and thus difficult to translate or localize.

I can understand their motivation for avoiding it, but I am always amazed at how our regulars can find things with very little to go on.  I thought that it would be more likely in the promotional sets since those tend to be locally-focused, but flipping through brickset I didn't see anything.

@AlexanderO'Mara: I don't think that's much of a problem, given that localized set names are sometimes not even remotely related in meaning. Having a pun in one language that is entirely absent in another one would thus not pose any issue.

OP, please clarify: Are you looking specifically for puns, or for any kinds of jokes (for instance, I'd count the Ninjago Template of the Ultimate Ultimate Weapon to be quite joke-like, even though it's not a pun)?

I thought this was going to be harder to find examples of so I aimed the question pretty broadly, but since we've got good answers for the narrower version we should probably stick with puns instead of jokes generally.

Not a pun, but still an "insider joke" - the Saturn V rocket set  has a piece count of 1969 which reflects the year of the Apollo 11 moon landing.

A spoof on Indiana Jones and the Temple of Doom:
1355-1: Temple of Gloom

Not a great pun, but the 2016 advent calendar was:
40222-1: Christmas Build-Up

Sort-of a pun/double-meaning on LEGO being a building toy, and the set being meant to build-up to Christmas.
The 2017 version also has the same name.

They did this in 2017 too with the same name.  https://brickset.com/sets/40253-1/Christmas-Build-Up  But so far those are the only two "build-up"s they've done.

3852-1: Sunblock (or Sun Block as styled on the packaging)

Here "Block" takes on 3 meaning, as part of the word "Sunblock", a pun on LEGO blocks (though I prefer to call them bricks), and a reference to the game play where you try to block your opponents from making another move.

This set name is almost-certainly intended as a humorous reference to Knight Rider:
30376-1: Knighton Rider

Hmm, but Knight Rider was about Hoff and his car KITT, rather than a bike ;)

Also, it would be better to combine your answer into a single definitive answer, rather than lots of separate ones, otherwise Chicks won't be able to accept any of them ;)

I think you meant "humorous", instead of humerus ;)

Bad but probably intentional pun, this set has dual bikes that duel:
8305-1: Duel Bikes

Likewise, there is 4587-1: Duel Racers.

42072 Whack! and 42073 Bash! are not punny but cannot be taken serously either. In Germany, they are called Zack! and Bumms!


text:
Pattern for oscillation with LEGO Technic
I would like to simulate an oscillation movement of 120/100 degrees around a fixed point.
Something like this one:

Basically, I want to rotate a gear around its axis, but only have a partial rotation and then have it return back.

Easy. Hard to describe in words, but your illustration above offers the solution. I'll build something in LDD for you later today.

While that picture shows what you need to do (you can replace the cam with either a large gear/wheel or even just a plate), it might be clearer to take a look at the driving rods on a steam engine that convert linear motion into rotating motion - for another example see here: Pattern for vertical motion. Note that the gear completes a full 360° rotation, but the cam is only rotating as far as the rod moves.

umm, but the second link goes "up" "down" i see it before. i am intrested on something that rotate partially. i can connect a 3743 to the "up" "down" part and then a gear, but that's the only way to do that? it will take quite a few space :(

It does, but fundamentally "up and down" is the same as "forwards and backwards" if you lay the mechanism down flat - by converting the circular motion of the first gear into linear motion on the arm, the cam no-longer completes a full circle, but rotates forwards a bit and then rotates backwards.

What you're looking for is reciprocal motion, or to convert rotation motion into linear motion (and then back to a limited rotation).
Building out the key parts of the fan head you have the following setup (using fairly standard technic pieces:

Drive the smaller cog normally, this will rotate 360° as normal.
The driving rod will only move as far as the limits of the smaller cog - from the side you can see that this appears to be only going forwards and backwards.
The larger cog will be driven forwards a few degrees and then be pulled backwards as the driving rod is pulled back in return.

Adjust the distance between the gears and the size of the gears as you require. If you need a larger gear in (3) you could replace the gear with one of the liftarms with an axle hole rather than circles, etc.


text:
Get robot to face perpendicular to nearest object, using the ultrasonic sensor in NXC?
I have an ultrasonic sensor attached to a motor so that the sensor can rotate. Right now it stops once it scans a value less than 65 cm. What I want it to do is to scan its surroundings and then face the ultrasonic sensor perpendicular to a the closest object.
task findWall()
{
     OnFwd(OUT_C, 30);
     until(SensorUS(IN_4)<65);
     Off(OUT_BC);
}

I like your username. I'm not exactly good at NXC either, but I'm experienced in C and Java. So here's some pseudocode that should get the job done. This will rotate the scanning motor 180 degrees, while remembering the closest object it's seen, and then rotating that motor back to point towards the closest object. You will need to change the functions to correspond to the actual NXC functions.
int closestObjectDist = 100; //variable records the closest object's distance
int closestObjectAngle = 0;  //variable records the angle pointing to the closest object
int currentAngle = 0;        //variable to hold the scanning motor's current angle.
int currentDistance = 0;     //variable to hold the sensor's current distance reading

resetScanningMotorAngle();   //reset the scanning motor's angle to 0.
turnScanningMotorOn(10);     //start rotating the scanning motor, slowly.

while(currentAngle < 180)    //repeat until the scanning motor has rotated 180 degrees
{
    currentAngle = getScanningMotorDegrees();  //get the motor's current angle
    currentDistance = readUltrasonicSensor();  //get the sensor's current distance

    if( currentDistance < closestObjectDistance )  // Here's the important part:
    {                                              // When the sensor reads a distance that
        closestObjectDistance = currentDistance;   // is the smallest distance yet,
        closestObjectAngle = currentAngle;         // record the angle and distance.
    }
}
                                            //now we have the closest object's angle stored!
rotateScanningMotorTo(closestObjectAngle);  //rotate the motor back to the recorded angle.

This code assumes that the robot scans in a 180-degree arc, but you could easily just change the 180 to 360 to scan in a full circle.
After the loop, you can add or subtract 90 degrees to closestObjectAngle to make the motor point perpendicular to the closest object instead of pointing AT the closest object.
Ask if you have any questions!


text:
How do I delete custom images I made in my computer?
I created a custom image for a test, and everytime I download the program to my brick, the image shows up in the folder despite me not using a display program. How do I fix this?

You should be able to go to the project tab (1) - it's the one with the wrench icon - and delete any unneeded items. Just select the item (2) and click the Delete button (3).


text:
Lego Mindstorms Ev3 home edition on Mac OS Mojave bug - bricks sometimes go blank
I have a fresh install of Mojave and of Mindstorms Ev3 home edition.  It seems to work fine but then randomly all the information disappears from the blocks at the bottom of the screen, and sometimes in the program too.  See screenshot.  This problem persists until I restart the software.  Any tips?
Note: easy way to reproduce this problem is clicking on a block link from the documentation area, like the 'Loop' block in the screenshot below.  It seems to cause the corruption every time.

It looks like you aren't the only one with this problem: https://www.facebook.com/groups/legomindstorms/permalink/1208245162657041/
Unfortunately, no confirmed solutions at this point in time. Are there any error messages in Console related to the EV3 app?

@DavidLechner lego got back to me with a fix.  See answer.  Good customer support!

For what it's worth, I'm having a similar problem with the EV3 Educational version. After I updated to Mojave the EV3 software wouldn't run at all. I've found the Mono hint some other place and tried downloading and installing it. I can run the EV3 software now but EVERY time I do, I get blank programming blocks. I've contacted Lego tech support and they're researching and will get back with me.

I contacted Lego support and they got back to me with a fix, which worked great.  It also has greatly improved the performance of the application.

For this issue fix, please install Mono for Mac OS found at the link below:
https://www.mono-project.com/download/stable/
and choose Mono 5.10.1

What does installing mono do to fix the problem?  Reading the mono page, it installs support for Microsoft .Net apps.  Would I then install the Windows version of Mindstorms?

I've installed silverlight as mentioned from this page:
https://discussions.apple.com/thread/7431216

experienced the same problem.
Updating Silverlight to the most current version 5.1.41212.0 solved it !

Now the Lego Mindstorm EV3 Software works fine.

I had this same issue after a Mac OS upgrade to Mojave.  (with Lego Mindstorms EV3 Home Edition)
What fixed it for me was to download the latest installer from lego.com and run the installer again.
It doesn't make sense because before I did this, I went to "Check For Updates" in Mindstorms and it says there was none.  But something clearly changed, because before the reinstall, there was a non-intuitive little tab with the EV3 logo on it on the top left (as seen in the original question's screenshot) and after the reinstall, that tab has "Lobby" labeled next to the icon.
Updating silverlight didn't help.  I did not try the mono suggestion.


text:
Duplo Locomotive: What is this inner part used for?
Background
I was forced to completely disassemble a duplo locomotive. My son played with it in a sand box and, guess what, it was not working anymore. I used a small brush to clean every single part (mainly axis and gears). I eventually managed to get rid of all the sand. Then I reassembled the locomotive.
Questions
I ended up with 2 small parts I could not figure out where to put them, neither what they are used for. Everything seem to work without these 2 parts - my son is happy again. These are curved parts, with a spring attached to it.
They are on left part of this picture:

So what are these 2 parts used for, and where should I put them ?

Is there any chance you could improve the lighting on the parts at all? It's a little hard to see the details of the black plastic in the shadows ;)

Skip on over to YouTube and watch this guy fix one of his toddler's jammed up trains.

Comparing your picture to his video, we can see the general area where the "hip springs" should be, but from my vantage point I can't tell if the pieces snap in somehow, or if they were broken off during disassembly.  That's where you'll have to step in to make that assessment.

What are they used for?...
Hmmm... I don't know exactly, but after watching the video we know that the motor sorta floats top heavy, and maybe the "hip springs" help cushion any knocking due to the forward motion at start up.  Should they be called "Thrust dampeners" instead? I just don't know.

Do you need 'em?...
Depends on individual temperament. How annoying would it be to get back in there?

They are protective locks. If something (let’s say kids hair, or part of their clothes) gets stuck and dragged inside the wheel, these tiny blocks will lock the wheels and make sure it doesn’t keep dragging whatever is stuck. As soon as you pull the stuck part back, the springs unlock.


text:
Identifying Parts Used For The Escape Hatch of Sariel's Tiger XL Model
I am working on a similar model of Sariel's Tiger XL in prep for my own designs of a few other German WW2 tanks, and need some help identifying a part or two.
Does anyone know what are the two parts on the left image that stand in for the escape hatch? One looks like a spanner, and the other one behind it is circular.

Great question! Welcome to Bricks.SE!

I think Sariel needs his own tag for Bricks:SE!

 First three from what we can see...

Part: 4735 Bar 1 x 3 with Clip and Stud Receptacle (Robot Arm).

Part 2958 Technic, Disk 3 x 3.

Part: 75c03 Hose, Rigid 3mm D. 3L / 2.4cm.

Last two hidden from view...

4 & 5. Part: 4085d Plate, Modified 1 x 1 with Clip Vertical - Type 4
    (thick open O clip).
I can't see, but I can imagine two crossed vertical 1x1 clip plates, pierced by the flex tubing to hold up the robot arm.
Sing! Now, build it out.  Now, build it out.  Now, build it out...

Great answer! That's a good call about likely having the 85861 element behind to secure it in place. It could just be held in place by the antistud on the arm, but I'm sure that Sariel designs with a lot more robustness than the MOCs that I cobble together. :)

True, or possibly a combination of both.  Darn-it!  Now I have to make another animation!:(

This is actually made of three parts as far as I can tell.

Technic Disk 3 x 3 (2723)

Bar 1 x 3 [Clip / Anti-Stud] (4735)

A cut piece of Hose, Rigid 3mm aka Flex System tubing


text:
Can you identify what sets this partial build and bag of LEGO elements come from?
We got this big box of Lego bricks, and we don't have the manuals, please help!

Welcome to Bricks.SE! The bag numbered 2 is from set 9494 Anakin’s Jedi Interceptor.

This is all based on the included Windscreen 10 x 6 x 3 Bubble Canopy Double Tapered with Light Bluish Gray Jedi Starfighter Pattern which only appears in this set (there is an older version of this piece but it is too old to have been included in the bag pictured, which LEGO didn’t start using until 2011).

The second picture contains a child’s own creation out of various pieces, including a Windscreen 6 x 6 x 3 Canopy Half Sphere with Dual 2 Fingers and SW Tie-Fighter Pattern.

This piece also comes only in one set, namely set 9492 TIE Fighter. Both sets are from 2012.


text:
What is this 2x4 brick with a 2x3 rounded plate with hole attached?

I found this LEGO brick and have no idea what it does, it’s name, or which set it is from. It is a 2x4 brick with a 2x3 base plate with a rounded end and a hole in it.
Can anyone tell me about this brick?

Great question! Welcome to Bricks.SE!

For more on the history around the use of these, and the use of glue to attach the figures to some of them, see this answer here.

It's a magnetic base that minifigs are attached to.

Hi @Isaac, if Alexander has answered your question, you can also click the tick mark below the vote counts :)


text:
Part identification: 40 tooth gear from The LEGO Movie
While watching clip of the LEGO Movie, I found a strange part:

Slightly earlier in the video, its part number is shown as 3649.
But it doesn't match the 40t gear I know nor the pictures on bricklink.
Is it an error from The LEGO Movie or a variant I don't know?

From this image, you can count the teeth well enough to determine there are actually 60 teeth, not 40:

This does not appear to be a real part.
It also appears you aren't the first to notice this. Jim Brickkeeper had created a ShapeWays model based on this movie piece which I found while searching for LEGO 60 tooth gears. It's no longer available, but it might be possible to contact them and see if there is another way to get it made.
According to Matthew Ashton this piece was planned for use in the set, but due to budget changes had to be cut, and has not yet been produced.

For each project we are assigned a certain budget and a certain number of moulds we can create for new pieces. It was our intention with the Movie to make all Characters and Vehicles toys 100%, movie accurate. However in this case the directors really wanted the back wheel to be bigger, so we designed the piece for them, but then later had to make a compromise on one of the models as we didn't have the budget for all the tooling. Lord Business's design had become more complicated and required more moulds than orginally planned.we had to get him 100% correct, so we decided to alter the Super Cycle as we felt it would be less noticeable, at that point we weren't aware that it's part No. would be called out

Oh, nice. Is it usual in this part of stackexchange to directly mark an answer as answered, or should I wait for more answers ?

@phi It's up to you.

The description on shapeways says it was an official unproduced Lego designed element, does anyone have more information on this claim?

@MichaelVerschaeve - it might be better to ask that as a new question, especially as this answer is now accepted ;)

@MichaelVerschaeve I've dug up some info on that and added it to the answer.

@AlexanderO'Mara The Shapeways link is broken

@mindstormsboi Yeah LEGO has been cracking down on some 3D printed pieces.

@AlexanderO'Mara This alternative link can be used for backup. I just used the search engine and found that some guy archived the Shapeways 3D model. https://www.pinterest.co.uk/pin/371265563026377809/

@mindstormsboi Yep, that's actually the link I used to replace it,


text:
Can you please identify these two assemblies, dark grey, dark red, yellow, and tan plus Technic treads with large orange pieces?
Set assemblies 1

Set assemblies 2

In the top image you have parts of 7656-1: General Grievous Starfighter and
7669-1: Anakin's Jedi Starfighter.
In the second image you have parts of
7706-1: Mobile Defense Tank

Thanks a lot.  Out of curiosity, did you happen to own the kits, or something you had seen in the past?  Thanks again

@pete I have a good memory, and build with the Exo-Force set before.


text:
How to MOC the Rough Terrain Crane 42082
I recently got me the Rough Terrain Crane 42082 and had lots of fun while assembling it. I find it a decent Technic build and worth the price. Still I find it under-motorized. I would like to drive and steer it. Do you know where I could find MOC instructions to modify and motorize the crane?

There are building instructions in this video of a fully motorized version: https://youtu.be/mmKw_GBFGs0
And here is a demonstration by the same builder how it all works: https://youtu.be/RzBaDTpG2Ss


text:
Are there Powered Up compatible connectors available?
I'm interested in experimenting with custom LEGO Powered Up peripherals. Are there connectors available that I can use to interface with the hub?

There do not appear to be any compatible connectors available currently. You can obviously splice cables from the official components, but that's expensive and makes those components unusable.
I hope that someone has a better answer, but the best that I've been able to do so far is to use a modified SATA connector. I first saw this in a video that demonstrated that the pin separation is the same between the two connectors.
Here's a standard SATA connector:

With a little Dremel work, you can expose the pins and reduce the width enough to fit the SATA connector into the Powered Up hub:

Here's the Powered Up connector for reference:

Notice that the SATA connector uses one extra pin. The pin on the right is extra and will not make contact with anything.
The first 6 pins line up with the hub just fine:

The SATA connector is unfortunately a little too thin to fit snugly:

If you can get it wedged in using some sort of shim (paper, cardboard, etc) you should be able to get a good connection.

Appears you can purchase them on AliExpress, here's some of the vendors I found:
here
here
here
"10Pcs/lot Programming Series Robots Model Building Blocks Education Steam Connector Cabe Parts For WEDO 2.0 Motors Sensor Toys"

From this article:

This connector first appeared in WeDo 2.0 set (45300) in 2016. It
allows to connect sensors and motors to the controller. This 6-wire
system progressively replaces the Power Functions 4-wire system. This
system was initially named "Power Functions 2.0" but it was then used
in 2017 Boost Creative Toolbox (17101), 2019 Powered Up trains, and
2019 Control + Technic sets, so naming this system remains... tricky!
But as of publishing, it looks like LEGO gathered these avatars under
the common "Powered Up" banner.

So looks like searching for WeDo is more fruitful than Powered Up since that's a more recent branding.
I am in no way affiliated with any vendors.

This is a great suggestion, however; use the HDD end instead.
Just grab an old HDD (SATA) and use the flat pin connectors (not the spring ended ones suggested above).  If you are careful with the side cutters you can actually recover two connectors from one HDD header. (One from the power and one from the data)

hard disks are more expensive than hard disk cables.

You can also 3d print the plugs.
See https://www.biasedlogic.com/index.php/lego-powered-up-connector/


text:
Importing 3ds file in ldraw (LeoCAD)
I designed a model in LDraw/LeoCAD and exported it as .3ds file. I thought that I can import .3ds file to edit it later. Now I want to edit the model but I don't see any option to import the .3ds file in LeoCAD. I tried my best to open it but useless.
How can I open a .3ds file in LeoCAD?

.3DS is a 3D image file format, a rendering of what you designed in LeoCAD.
All information necessary to recreate your build (i.e. what bricks to use) will be stripped from it. I suppose that theoretically this information can be recreated for small builds, but for medium-sized to large builds, this will simply be infeasible.
Hence I think it quite unlikely that it's possible to import .3ds back into LeoCAD.

Yes. How its possible? I have small model.

I believe it isn't, it's only "theoretically" possible. Unlikely the developers of LeoCad will have gone through the trouble of implementing this.


text:
Please help identify this LEGO set with large black curved elements with orange stickers
Can you please help me identify this set.

These are parts from 8058-1: Guardian of the Deep

except the Black Aircraft Fuselage Curved Forward 6 x 10 Bottom with 3 Holes.


text:
Lego Set ID with lime green and grey pieces?
I need your help to identify this set.

These are parts from
8192-1: Lime Racer

besed on the Slope, Curved 2 x 2 Lip, No Studs with 'RUN' and 'V8' Pattern Model Left (Sticker) - Set 8192
and parts from
7052-1: UFO Abduction

based on the Slope 33 3 x 2 with Alien Insignia Pattern (Sticker) - Set 7052


text:
Lego Set ID for white curved pieces with blue Police stickers?
I got another police set but can't find directions.

The parts with "Polizei" are from the 7741 Police Helicopter set.
Other parts are from the 7286 Prisoner Transport set (parts with "Police" and "03").
The license plate is from the Fire Truck of the 7206 Fire Helicopter set.


text:
Part Identification: Black Bionicle Foot Piece?

I saw this piece used as a foot in someone's MOC and I can't figure out what it is. It kind of looks like a Bionicle foot but it doesn't match any that I know of. Pretty sure that the axle going through it in the picture is separate and not part of the piece. Can anyone help me identify it?

It's a "Sports Hockey Skate" mostly from LEGO Hockey although it has appeared in some BIONICLE sets also.


text:
Is the EV3 compatible with a 3rd party I2C gyroscope?
The only detail I've found so far is that the pull-up resistor should be 82k ohm. I'm wondering If I could just get something like this Adafruit Gyro/Accelerometer
and just hook it up to the SDA and SCL pins of the EV3 and use it like the Lego brand sensor with minimal modification.

Yes, Mindstorms is incredibly hackable. You can use whatever 3rd-party analog, I2C, or UART devices you want with the EV3 brick. According to the hardware developer kit documentation:

The EV3 platform supports the same level of I2C communication as MINDSTORMS NXT. This means that
  system support a maximum of 9600 bit/s and maximum 32 bytes communication buffers. All I2C
  communication is running within software drivers. External devices are required to include pull-up
  resistors on both pin 5 and 6 on 82K ohm. If multiple sensors are used on the same bus the total
  impedance needs to be adjusted accordingly.

Obviously, the standard Lego programming software will not be able to utilize custom devices, but pretty much any 3rd-party firmware will allow sending custom I2C read/writes.

As MindS1 mentioned, I2C on the EV3 is a bit limited, so it really depends on what device you are connecting. There isn't really a way to tell if a device will work or not besides just trying it out. Even if it "meets the specs", there can still be timing issues that cause problems.
Dexter Industries has a nice blog post about connecting EV3 to an Arduino via I2C. This includes a block they created for the official EV3 programming software that does generic I2C communications. One limitation is that although you can read up to 32 bits at a time, you can only write at most one byte at a time (this is a limitation of the EV3 firmware, not the Dexter Industries block). So if a device requires longer write messages it definitely won't work. Otherwise, as already mentioned, you will just have to try it and see what happens.
The ev3dev 3rd-party OS for EV3 has more robust I2C handling since is uses the standard Linux I2C interface. For example, you can write a program in Python like this.


text:
EV3 Brick and Commander app Bluetooth disconnecting
On iOS on an iPad, we're having an issue with the EV3 Brick and Commander app Bluetooth connection constantly disconnecting. The brick just stops responding, so we turn the brick off to disconnect and then reconnect Bluetooth via the app. After doing this it connects for a brief time, we're able to control the brick for a moment but very soon it disconnects again.
The app works just fine from an iPhone. So I'm assuming it's something to do with the app or Bluetooth on the iPad.
Any suggestions on how to fix?

Are you using iOS? Does the iOS setting on the EV3 match what you are using (turned on if you are using iOS, turned off if you are using anything else)?

Yes, using the IOS app - yes that matches.

Is it shutting down when it disconnects?


text:
Can you identify the set these white vehicle elements come from?

We got this big box of Lego bricks, and we don't have the manuals, please help!

I'd hazard a guess for 3661-1 Bank & Money Transfer, based off your Minfig, which shows up in only one set.

Free build instructions here at LEGO.com if you have all the pieces to this set.


text:
Which set is this with a white truck and camper trailer?
I’ve been searching online for quite some time to find this set number, name, and the instructions, but I’ve had no luck. I’ll be passing it on to a youngster in the family and after it’s promptly destroyed I was hoping to have the instructions for him. Thanks!

Welcome to Bricks.SE!

I believe this is the set:
https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?S=6345-1
I searched on the vehicle roof piece, only 48 sets have it in white...
The instructions for this part of the set are pages 3 through 9 and are available on Peeron.

Thanks so much! That’s definitely it. I appreciate your help!

Set Number: 6345.
Name: Aerial Acrobats.
Instructions: We have at least 3 options: Two options are for free digital. One option is a physical purchase.

Option 1. Here are free online digital instructions for this
set.

Option 2. Skip over to YouTube and watch a speed build of this
set. In settings, (gear icon), you can slow the playback speed
of the video and easily glean an understanding of the build.

Option 3. It is possible to download and keep YT videos, but...if you
still want to keep things traditional by wanting a physical hard copy
for said youngster's future inheritance, then head on over to
Bricklink, where for under $10 bucks, you should be able to purchase the actual instruction booklet for this set.


text:
Why does the Gyro Sensor not work correctly in Virtual Robotics Toolkit?
I somehow found out about Virtual Robotics Toolkit and when I did, I decided that it would be great software to use for Lego League. Later in my research, I found that it automatically had the newest tables.
Soon I was designing a robot and code for my team, but as soon as I tested it the virtual robot started driving off to one side. Even though it was doing this, the EV3 software said that it was at 0°. When I tested the same program in real life, the robot drove perfectly straight.

You can download the source code here. (ORBIT3R-BOT.ev3)
You can download the robot model here. (ORBIT3R-BOT.lxf)
You can download the robot model here. (ORBIT3R-BOT.ldr)
You can download the VRT project here. (IntoOrbit)
You can download all the above (and more) here. (Robot)

Try to reset angle on the gyro sensor. Click on the block and choose reset.

I have already tried that.


text:
How to make an exact 16 degree turn?
Does anyone know how to make an exact 16 degree turn with a LEGO robot?

This is actually a surprisingly difficult task. If you search for similar questions over on the Robotics stack exchange, you will find very smart people who can't even get it right with thousand-dollar localization solutions and graduate-level control theory.
If you have a Gyro sensor like Michael suggested, you're on the right track. You can probably get close to 16 degrees with that.
If you don't have a Gyro sensor, you can use the motors' built-in rotation sensors. If you drive the motors in opposite directions, the robot rotates around the point halfway between the wheels, and the formula is:

Where:

r_wheel  is the radius of your robot's wheels
theta_wheel  is the angle the wheel has to move
r_robot  is the radius of the robot (half of the distance between the two wheels)
theta_robot  is the angle you want the entire robot to turn, in this case 16 degrees.

So measure the radius of the wheel and the robot, plug in 16 degrees for theta_robot, and solve for theta_wheel. Then drive one motor forward theta_wheel degrees, and one motor backward theta_wheel degrees (simultaneously).
Bonus points if you make a MyBlock to have the EV3 do the calculation itself, for any desired theta_robot.
Actually even if you do have the gyro I would recommend trying both to see which gives better results for your specific situation.

I think the reason people struggle with this task is due to the difference between maths and the real world - you also need to take into account slippage of the wheels on the surface, play within the components, and so on ;)

@Zhaph-BenDuguid Oh definitely. There's too many unknown variables affecting robot motion, and they add up to bigger and bigger error over time. Generally this task would be done using a Kalman filter, fusing the sensor readings from the motor encoders with an IMU and a compass. Such a task is totally doable with Mindstorms but is more than likely out of the scope of this question.

Do you have a gyro sensor on your robot? I'm assuming you're using an EV3 set, and the Mindstorms programming environment.
If so, reset your gyro sensor, and then insert a loop block attached to the gyro sensor. Set the loop settings to >= 16 degrees, and insert a tank move block into the loop. The motor should be set to 'on', with wheels going in opposite directions; the speeds should be relatively low to more accurately stop at your chosen degree setting. After the loop, be sure to insert a stop, or the robot will keep rotating.
m.


text:
How to convert LEGO base plate to a DUPLO base plate?
How can I convert a regular LEGO base to a DUPLO base? I have a table that cannot be changed and it has built-in LEGO baseplates, but I need it to be 100% DUPLO compatible. Any LEGO to DUPLO baseplate converters?

See also: Are DUPLO blocks compatible with LEGO blocks in any way and Are there any LEGO baseplates that are compatible with DUPLO

The table IS already cross compatible, even though it doesn't look it. The tabletop or LEGO baseplate is cross molded for DUPLO pieces to fit and lock in on top of the regular LEGO baseplate.
PART ONE: THE PICTURED PROOFS...

So, let's imagine the top of your table is my unopened gray baseplate.

We'll use a DUPLO Cock-A-Doodle-Doo for an example DUPLO model.

Sorry, but I don't want open my baseplate just yet, so in the next four shots we'll use these green plates to show the cross interlocking magic of LEGO and DUPLO.

PART TWO:  THE WHAT IFs...

Now, I did say the magic was cross interlocking, so... WHAT IF your tabletop HAD started off DUPLO and we wanted it to be, in our minds, 100% compatible with regular LEGO.

You see, it is compatible, again, it may not look it at first glace, but as we can see using these White 2x4 LEGO bricks with a Bright Yellow 2x2 DUPLO brick things are indeed cross compatible.

I'm gonna get uber geeky here, but the harder to imagine negative space inside the White 2x4 LEGO brick interlocks beautify with the easier to see studs of the 2x2 Yellow DUPLO brick.

Well, hey!  Hoped to have saved you time, money and effort in fabricating a new table.  Later!

Thanks for the clear pictures.  They really drive your point home.

Now you have to tell us what the black, white and grey thing is. :)

A highly glorified garbage can, that's what it is!  Well, it's a trash receptacle. LEGO themed after an enemy from Super Mario World, called a Thwomp. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yxr5WEYJ-6s.


text:
How can I get the EV3 to control an ordinary motor with PWM?
Looking at the hardware developer pdf, it looked like the EV3 should output a PWM signal with a duty cycle corresponding to power level. It does, but only for 100ms and only on pin 1.
Is that how the signal should look or is it because the EV3 know there's no motor attached?
I'd like to do this all in hardware if that's at all possible.

The hardware solution is to simulate the motor circuit on pins 5 and 6.

There is a YouTube video by TechnicRobot that shows one way to do this.

I'm not sure I understand completely the logic behind this wiring. Personally, I would just connect pin 6 to pin 3 directly and connect pin 5 to pin 3 using a 3.3k resistor so that it exactly matches one of the 4 possible states of an EV3 Large motor.
When you do this, the EV3 will detect your motor as an EV3 Large Motor. However, you shouldn't use the Large Motor blocks in the EV3 software. Since this hardware hack won't provide a position feedback signal, those blocks won't work correctly. Instead, use the Unregulated Motor block (one of the blue "advanced" blocks) to control the PWM duty cycle.

To get a PWM signal on pin 2, simply run the motor in reverse. It is not possible to get a PWM signal on both pin 1 and pin 2 at the same time using the official LEGO firmware.

For anyone looking for a software solution rather than a hardware solution, there are some similar questions that should be helpful:

Using the unregulated motor block and conversion cable to light LEDs
How to use Power Functions with Mindstorms EV3?


text:
Any ideas how to separate these lobed gears and lightsaber pieces?
Any help please? I've got these two pieces stuck together and not sure what to try! I don't want to break the pieces...

A possible solution I frequently use in such cases:
Cover the transparent bar into something soft, e.g. a few layers of paper tissue and fix that part in a vise or a pliers. Tissues will prevent the tool from leaving marks on the bar. When the bar is sufficiently fixed you can simultaneously pull and carefully rotate the yellow piece back and forth until it comes off. You can use some soap to make it easier.


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Smallest rubber wheel that can be turned by a technic axle
What the smallest rubber wheels that can be turned by a Technic axle?
This is what I have so far

Wheel Full Rubber Balloon with Axle hole #4288
Background: I'm building a GBC and I want to push the balls at speed across an open area. I plan to hide small spinning wheels in the opening they go through and assume that rubber tyres are the best solution.

There are some small tires that fit on half-bushings.

I think the smallest one in diameter is the tire 3641

with the bush 4265c.

Alternatively, you can use the tire 3139

which has a smooth surface and also compatible (but a little bit loosely) with the same bush.

While it is technically not a rubber wheel, you can use an axle with a half-bush and with an additional rubber band to provide grip. Tensioning the band between two such axles will form a short conveyor belt with a rubbery surface, which could be used for transporting balls when surrounded by appropriate elements to form a channel:

(the black lines are axles, the grey ovals are half-bushes, the red freehand-circle is a rubber band and the round spotty ugliness is supposed to be my rendition of a LEGO football)


text:
Can you help me identify this poly bag #4 with many grey pieces?

We got this bag in a free box and don't know what it is!

I'll be happy to help out, my Friend. It comes from Set #75103 First Order Transporter.
See ya around Space Cowboy!

@aQui Welcome to Bricks! If this has answered your question, you can click the tick mark and the upvote arrow to the left of the answer to let others know that this was helpful and answered :)


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What came first? Print or sticker?
Recently I learned that there seems to be no strategy in the LEGO design about when to use stickers and when to use prints in a given set. My question is what LEGO used first to decorate bricks: Prints or stickers?
First I thought, it must have been stickers, but then I found the 360 Ambulance from 1971 with a 1x2 brick with a printed red cross symbol.

So prints existed much earlier than stickers.

The BrickLink Catalog, which is the most comprehensive database of LEGO parts ever made, lists the first official stickers from 1971. They were used in the Homemaker sets to decorate furniture, etc. List of LEGO Stickers Sorted by Year
Interestingly, at the same time (early '70s), the large Homemaker figures had printed faces, but the first minifigures (with no movable legs and arms) had blank faces, and stickers for their torsos.
To find the oldest printed piece, I went through the BrickLink Color Guide, and looked at the colors that have been produced the longest (since 1950). I checked each of these colors, sorted the results by year released, and looked for the first appearance of printed elements.
The first printed pieces that show up are a large selection of street signs and lettered signs produced in 1955. They were mostly printed on white elements, but there are also some printed yellow and red pieces through the 1950s. First White Printed Parts Sorted by Year
In summary, the first decorated parts were printed, but LEGO has been using a combination of stickers and printed pieces since the early 1970s. While this has been the cause of frustration for LEGO fans and collectors who prefer printed parts, it is actually in line with the policies of other toy makers. Mega Bloks (now Mega Construx), Kre-O, Oxford, Playmobil, etc. also have been using both stickers and printed elements in their toy lines.
It's also interesting to note that in the 1970s and 1980s, LEGO released ideas books with sticker sheets, which allowed children to customize their minifigures and other pieces in creative ways. Stickers were considered cool back then, and were extensively used for customization. Nowadays, stickers are viewed more as a sign of a company being cheap and lazy.
It's worth looking at the history of stickers and printed parts through the years and through toy lines, and how they were perceived and used by consumers (especially children). This is just my personal observation, but I believe the recent preference of printed parts has to do with collectors getting interested in children's toys and demanding what they perceive as higher quality. Children who are old enough to manipulate stickers, generally prefer the customization options stickers provide.

Although even as an adult getting some of those stickers on straight can be quite frustrating ;)

Thank you for the overview and the historical perspective. Now I remember that I had one of those books. It had several sheets of stickers and it WAS cool.


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Is it possible to remove a parted out set from BrickLink inventory?
I have an inventory in BrickLink, in which I accidentally parted out (with the consolidation option) two sets instead of one.
Is there a way to remove the pieces of the second set somehow without manual part-by-part deletion?

Good question. It's not that obvious, it seems.

According to this help article, you can, incredibly, part out a negative number of a set, which will result in the subtraction of that number of sets worth of parts from your inventory. I haven't been able to get this to work for my wanted list, though, and I'm not a seller (yet) so I can't verify if this works for sellers.

I can second LegoSonicBoy's comment. When I was a seller I wanted to remove the individual parts and add the set as an item. This can be done by parting out a negative set. Items can't have a quantity less than zero, so don't worry if you don't have all the parts in the inventory. I'd also suggest for LegoSonicBoy to post an answer :)

Part out the same set, but with a negative quantity.
This does indeed work, as I have solved this very problem using this solution in the past:

This is a screenshot of my Part Out Log, and you can see I've accidentally parted out 10 sets twice. Then I've reversed the second part-out.
You can see a list of every set you've parted out (after mid-2009) and the quantity in your Part Out Log.

I don't really think there is any way to do so other than to look at the inventory of the set and then do the manual part by part deletion, but if the parts from the parted out set consist of most or all the pieces in the cart then you could probably jot down the numbers of the parts not included in the set and delete everything in the cart. my answer could very well be incorrect or unusable, but this is the best I can do. Hope it helps.


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How could I make a golf robot from a LEGO NXT kit?
I want to make a golf robot. It will be placed straight in line with the ball. It will approach the ball and swing.
The part where I get confused is how to get it to swing in a left-right motion when the motor attached is heading towards the ball.
I want to know how to build it!! I tried following some images I found online but there weren’t any details about the design.
This is what I would like to build. I'm curious about the motor and the golf swing part!

Welcome to Bricks.SE! Can you expand your question and show us what you have already tried? Right now your question is quite vague and likely to be closed for being too broad,

This model uses gears to do 2 things:

Change the direction of motion:

The motor turns an axle, on which a gear is attached (partially hidden black disk in the picture).
The first two gears shift the rotation out in front of the motor.
The next two knob wheel "gears" turn the rotation 90 degrees, resulting in the golf club motion you see in the picture.

Increase the speed of the golf club:
When you combine gears of different sizes you can change how fast or how strong the output is.
The first two gears have 36 teeth and 12 teeth, in that order. This makes the golf club move 3 times faster than the motor.
If you were to swap the gears, putting the small 12 before the 36, it would make the club 3 times slower than the motor.

You can find building instructions here. This model was designed to be built with the NXT Education Base Set. If you have the normal NXT retail set, you won't be able to follow the instructions exactly; there will be a few missing pieces, but it should still be pretty easy to find suitable replacement parts from what you have in the kit.

I’m new to this flatform so I am not sure if you’ll see this but.. Wow You really gave me a specific and amazing answer!! Thank you so much bless you!


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Can several users control one Powered Up train using different devices?
According to this review of the new 60197 passenger train you can only have one Bluetooth thing talk to the new LEGO battery box at a time.

The new Power Up system as it currently appears in this set is very rigid. One remote or device can be used to operate one battery box/receiver, which in turn can operate one train motor. All of the flexibility of the old system seems to be gone.

I'm hoping to put a train in my office before Christmas and it would be great if multiple people could install the app and change the speed.  Is that too much to hope for with LEGO's current evolution of this technology?  This seems like a normal thing to expect for something that uses Bluetooth, but the review above makes me doubt that applies to LEGO. Has anyone tried this?

As far as I know, this is not possible using the current stock firmware. The battery box can only pair with one device. The UI on the battery box is a single button, and for simplicity the device is either in a mode where it is looking for a device to pair with (flashing light) or already paired (solid light). There isn't a way to pair it with another device once it is already paired, and pressing the button while paired cancels the current pairing.

I'm hoping to put a train in my office before Christmas and it would
be great if multiple people could install the app and change the
speed.

There are ways to allow multiple people to control a device, but it will likely require a bit of software development.
Update
My students and I have been working on a possible solution to this problem that I wanted to share. We've created an open source project for the Raspberry Pi called twitch-powered-up that allows a LEGO model to be streamed from a webcam and controlled via simple natural language commands on Twitch chat. Here's the basic idea:

I can confirm that using something like jncranton suggested (a third-party library that speaks to PoweredUp devices over bluetooth), you can use a computer to control several PoweredUp devices at once.
The limit seems to be the number of devices your Bluetooth will pair with.
The Remote is a smart hub like the battery box so each remote counts as one device and each battery box likewise counts as one.
When paired in this fashion, the buttons on the remote do nothing. You'll need to write code to dispatch messages to the battery box to perform whatever action you want your remote to control. I wrote a script that makes the remote behave like the remote in the box, i.e. it makes the train go faster or slower. But as the train only uses one side of the remote, I programmed the other buttons to raise and lower the gate at the level crossing, using a Boost brick which was also part of this program.

I've done some experimentation with using one powered up controller over two hub devices ... ( You must have one motor on channel A in Hub 1 & the other on Channel B in Hub 2 ) Seems to work, pairing involves turning on all devices at once, ( controller & Hub ) and waiting for it to sync + same with turning it off - press & hold all devices for 5 sec ...
The other program I've looked into ( but not tried yet ) is "The Lego Train Project". Found here : https://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?/forums/topic/169318-control-all-your-powered-up-power-function-sbrick-devices-with-a-single-software/
Add : This program requires windows 10 to operate ... :(
Should give that a go to see if it can control trains from multiple locations ... :)

I'm glad folks are writing software to solve this problem, but I don't use Windows anymore so I can't try this one out.

Yeah, same here - I don't have a window's 10 system ( yet ) ... :/


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Why does the Duplo bathtub piece have an odd height?
I have recently come in touch with the Duplo bathtub piece.
While it is mainly a bathtub whose bottom is shaped in such a way that it can be placed on Duplo studs, one of the piece's sides also features two studs on top. This suggests the bathtub can be integrated into other constructions such as walls, similarly to other furniture pieces such as the toilet piece.
Curiously, though, the bathtub does not seem to have a height that fits with other Duplo bricks. It is taller than a Duplo brick, but not as tall as 1.5 Duplo bricks (or a Duplo brick plus a Duplo plate).
Why is that? Is there any way this non-standard height can be advantageous, just like e.g. the Erling brick's reduced depth that allows for sideways and upright integration? Can I combine the bathtub with its odd height with anything else at all?

One of our first ideas was to have the slide end in a bathtub. But with the bathtub's non-standard height, building a support for the slide is tricky.

I don't know why they didn't make it a standard height, but the studs on top are for attaching a shower head.

Although we probably won't get a definite answer to why this decision was made, unless a LEGO part designer steps in to answer the question, here are some things to consider.
The LEGO DUPLO bathtub, toilet, and sink all have two studs at the end. Looking through all the sets these pieces appear in, the studs are used for attaching accessories, like a shower head (for the bathtub), mirror (for the sink), or printed bricks with various bathroom accessories. They are not made to be integrated into a wall (at least not as a primary feature).
Even though the toilet and sink are 1.5 LEGO DUPLO bricks tall with two studs, I can find very few examples when this was taken advantage of by incorporating the pieces into a wall. In the vast majority of LEGO DUPLO sets, the bathtub, toilet, and sink are freestanding next to a wall, and often next to each other. To mimic realism, the bathtub needed to be shorter than the sink, but tall enough to fit a figure - thus the odd height.
In the case of LEGO DUPLO accessories, furniture pieces, and fixtures, this is often the case. LEGO DUPLO element designers will make sure a piece can fit with other pieces in at least one primary way, but there are other considerations as well, like scale in relation to other pieces and fitting the figures properly.
We should remember that while LEGO DUPLO is a construction toy, it is meant to be for the youngest of children. So, while building and rebuilding is possible, the parts are not designed to be attached using complex building techniques or repurposed in many different ways, as we see in LEGO System sets.
As far as the idea of integrating the bathtub with the slide, how about putting a couple of LEGO System plates under the pieces to even out the height? LEGO System plates are compatible with LEGO DUPLO if placed on the underside. I do not have the pieces to test this out myself, but OP's question made me curious.


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Program for NXT golf robot not looping properly

This is what I made:

I will put this robot straight in line with the ball
I have to make this robot go forward and once it reaches the ball, I have to make it stop and hit the ball with the swing shown in the picture
I used ultrasonic sensor to determine if it reached the ball

It has to identify if it's a red ball or blue ball with the light sensor.
If it's a red ball the robot should hit the ball and if it's a blue ball it shouldn't hit the ball.
I used while and if statements but it doesn't seem to work properly. If I use break; then it stops the program instantly when I start it, so I didn’t use break, but if I start my code, it goes forward and stops and then continue this
It just wouldn't go continuously
Here’s the code I wrote:
#include "NXCDefs.h"
task main() {
  SetSensorLowspeed(S2);
  ClearSensor(S2);
  SetSensorType(S1,SENSOR_TYPE_LIGHT_ACTIVE);
  SetSensorMode(S1,SENSOR_MODE_PERCENT);
  ClearSensor(S1);

  while(true) {
    OnFwd(OUT_AB,75);
    if(SensorUS(S2)<=16) {
      OnFwd(OUT_AB,0);
      if(Sensor(S1)>49) {
        OnFwd(OUT_C,-70);
        Wait(2000);
      }
      else {
        Wait(500);
      }
    }
  }
}

Looking at your code, there are a few things that you need to consider.
Firstly, you have a while (true) loop which will run infinitely.
The first thing you have after the loop is OnFwd(...) which will turn motors A and B on.
Together, this means that whatever you do next, when then you will run the code again, turning on motors A and B.
The next thing to be aware of is that Wait(2000) is milliseconds. 2000 milliseconds is 2 seconds, so you will only turn motors A and B off - stopping the robot - for either half a second, or 2 seconds before the loop starts again, and the robot starts moving again.
In the case where both if statements are true (presumably when it detects a red ball - but I haven't double checked either the Sensor or SensorUS commands), the robot will stop, the motor C will start, then 2 seconds later the robot will start again.
I would suggest increasing the values in the Wait statements (you could use time constants such as SEC_5), and adding a break; after the Wait(2000);


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Please Help! My LEGO BB-8 Minifig Head Is Stuck In a Helmet!

My younger brother lodged his BB-8 head in a helmet, and I just can’t dislodge it.

Show your little brother just how super chill you are by easily solving all his problems.

Just get a normal minifig and pop the head off that.  Stick the neck into BB-8 and helmet, and with the extra leverage, you'll be able to snigg-wiggle and separate head from helmet.

Watch the non-delicate surgical procedure here on Youtube. Just skip forward to the 52 second mark of video.  Later!


text:
Facebook ads for cheap LEGO : legit or scam?
Today, I spotted an ad on my Facebook feed for the website "winnerattop"
Someone commented on Facebook that this website is a mirror of "childtocoll".
According to scamadvisor, both domains are only 4 days old, are hosted in France and have a Chinese owner.
The website headlines with "Black Friday sale", selling several popular LEGO sets at discounts of up to 80%.
For example, it sells the Parisian restaurant at no more than €27.20. See screenshot below.

Considering the owner being based in China, I'd be inclined to think that this is LEPIN being passed off as LEGO, but even for LEPIN those prices are suspiciously low.
Does anyone know what's up with this website?
And is it safe to assume there is zero chance that this is legit?

The site also appears to deceive users into believing this may be an official LEGO site by prominently displaying the LEGO logo in the top-left corner with no other identifying features for the website itself. I'm fairly sure it goes against many of The LEGO Groups brand guidelines. The social media and e-mail icons links are broken.

I just see another online website call 'znitans.com' selling a huge discounts on lego products too, with lego logo on the top left, with offer ends in 2 days xxx hours xxx mins, exactly as discribed. I will think it is a scam, too good to be true!

I see in the screenshot that the model number actually has letters in it instead of numbers for the set number. Another sign of scamming.

And now everytime I attempt to access the site, they try to give me this "safer browser expirience" by downloading actual .exe files on my PC when browser extensions are NOT .exe files. It won't proceed unless I accept, so it's obvious that it's a scam.

I raised this same question on Reddit.
Two people over there pointed out that the website was actually selling pants instead of LEGO.
So I just tried to access the website through https://hide.me/en/proxy.
When I use their Dutch proxy, the site can't be loaded at all.
When I use their American proxy, the site is shop for pants.
When I use their German proxy, the site is shop for LEGO sets.
So I guess it could not be a scam more obviously.
Not only are they scamming people by "selling" items at ridiculous prices that they're never planning to deliver, but they're "selling" LEGOs in one part of the world and pants in another part on the very same website!
I've never seen anything like it.

Can we conclude from this that Americans spend more money on pants than Germans on Lego? ;)

@MichaelVerschaeve : It does seem to suggest that, yes

Maybe they are trying to remind us about that fake TV show from the Lego movie about the guy who's always missing his pants

These scammer websites have been popping up for over a year on facebook.
Any money sent is lost. You will not receive even a Lepin set.
Use your common sense, how is this website supposed to make money with those prices?

And how does the name of the website even relate to what they’re selling?

I suspected as much. Still, I figured it wouldn't hurt asking the experts.

I ordered a couple Star Wars sets from one of these facebook ads, and I was eventually delivered the sets.  I was very suspicious at first, but the same ad was still showing up after a couple months, so I decided to risk it.
Of course, they were the Lepin sets, and not the original Lego sets (although for the price that's what I was expecting.
Another important bit is that it took a looong time to ship. I received a tracking number, but it never updated.  I then threatened them in a support email to report them to PayPal if I did not receive the items.  I received a response and then a few weeks later I received my items (shipped through a Chinese delivery.  I don't know if it was a legitimate screwup or whether they only ship out items to customers that call them on it, but I got my items.
Would I be happier if they were truthful and shipped me the original Lego sets?  Of course.  But at those prices I was already expecting a Chinese knock-off, and these models are going to be built once and never disassembled, so they're never going to get mixed in with my real Lego sets.


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How to prevent discoloration or parts in storage?
I recently moved into a 1 bedroom apartment, and I am storing my Lego sets out in the living area. There is one problem: one wall is practically all window. Since it is unrealistic to have the blinds closed all of the time (since the lighting isn't great), and I don't have the space or money to buy display cabinets with the special glass that filters UV light, I installed UV film to the windows.
Will this be enough to save my Lego sets from suffering from discoloration, or should I be doing something else? This situation is only for a year or two, then I hope to buy a house where my sets can safely live in the basement, away from sunlight.

Product description says:

UV protection helps reduce fading on flooring, furniture, portraits, blinds and draperies

Reduce, not eliminate, because such film cannot remove 100% of UV, and regular light can also participate in fading a bit.
If you want to store them, not to display them, then box will do. One that isn't transparent. There are opinions that airtight boxes help, too, but I haven't tested that. Regular dark box did a pretty ok (not perfect) job for me when I stored my bricks for many years.

I want to have them on display, has anyone (Lego or someone independent of Lego) measured how long it takes before white starts to turn yellow/tan?  I have never had my bricks turn this color, but I have inherited some sets with white bricks that are so discolored they almost match the light tan bricks.

@Jedi_Maseter_Sam measurement is impossible - exact recipe for LEGO plastic was changed a few times, so any long term results had to be outdated. Modern recipe is supposed to be rather resistant to color changes. Also, it depends where on Earth you are, on what side are your windows, is ozone layer good where you live and so on.


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Mindstorms Chromebook app Stuck in Zoomed-Out Position
We are using the LEGO Mindstorms app on Chromebooks. Our test program got zoomed-out to the point of being too small to read.
The remainder of the screen is normal sized. We've tried using 2 fingers to zoom-in and out, but to no avail. Any suggestions?

I haven't used a Chromebook yet, so this might be silly, but: Do you have any access to a keyboard, either physical or on-screen? If so, ctrl-0 is a common "reset zoom" keyboard shortcut.

SHORT ANSWER:
Look in upper right hand corner of your project page and find the icon that looks like this [1:1] and click it.  It will center and reset the zoom of your program.

Isn't two finger zooming an Apple touch screen thing, like we do on an iPhone?  So, unless you're used to doing this on your Apple tablet at home, the two finger slide technique won't work on the class Chromebook.

LONGER ANSWER:
A few disclaimers first, I don't have a Chromebook, or any LEGO Mindstorms sets... (yet), so I can't be totally sure of what you mean or every detail I say.  So, with that said, let's dance!

So, I watched a video of cool teacher Mr. Hino, downloading the Windows version of this app on his class Chromebook.
So, to understand your question further, I downloaded the same Windows version app on to my PC, and have installed/launched the program.
Assuming your app is the same as my app, I took some screen shots to point out where the Zoom In/Out stuff is.

1) So, this picture is the Lobby/Row of Robots when we start up the program.
2) We need to get to a "Project".  Located in upper left hand corner. Click to pull down the menu.
3) We'll either choose to start a "New Project", or if we have one saved,   "Open Project" that already exists.

4) This picture is where you're zoom-stuck.

5) Look in the upper right hand corner and you'll see some icons in a row.
6) You'll see magnifying glasses with "-" sign, "+" sign, and "1:1" zoom reset.
7) Click "1:1" Zoom Reset.

8) FRIGGEN-FIXED!
EXTRA CREDIT ANSWER:
There are keyboard combinations called shortcuts that make life hella-easier.
The most common are:
"CTRL + C" = Copy.
"CTRL + X" = Cut.
"CTRL + V" = Paste.
Don't know if your Chromebook has a mouse wheel, but...
"CTRL + Mouse wheel UP" = Zoom IN.
"CTRL + Mouse wheel DOWN" = Zoom OUT.

The desktop app is not the same as the chrome app, so this doesn't really answer the question.

Hey, Dave. How's it going, my friend.  Yea, my suggestion is based on Mr. Hino's video showing him downloading the Win installer to his Chromebook.  I don't know, maybe he lied;).  Well, I installed the student educational class version. Besides not having a hall of Robots in the Lobby, the class app still has the magnifying/size reset icons in the upper right hand corner.  Hey, David, if you have access to a Chromebook can you please try either Ctrl+, Ctrl-, or Ctrl+0, (Suggested by Joe Friedrichsen, good man!), and get back to us with anything that really helps answer her question?


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Black 2x4 curved top piece of assembly
This piece does not have an identification number on it. It appears to be part of a larger assembly. At each side are two 'legs', neither of which have stud receptacles, so it doesn't hook on to studs.
I'm guessing it slides down inside something as a top piece.
Can someone tell me what element it is?

Technically you don't ask what that element is, but I'm guessing that's what you want to know.
I think it is:
LegoFabuland Container, Side Bags / Saddlebags

ah true, I tagged it as piece-information and forgot the actual question