text:
Distance Learning Mindstorms web-based software
I am a Technology education teacher from NJ and I use Lego Mindstorms for my 8th-grade robotics class. Since we are doing distance learning (teaching from home) my students have not been able to continue their curriculum as the software and robots are at school. Is there a web-based program where the students can code with block-based coding (not scratch) like in the normal downloadable software and run virtual tests of their code? Kind of like the virtual brick or virtual world software you can purchase but a web-based version so my students can still learn how and explore Mindstorms like we would in the classroom. Any suggestions?

Here's Microsoft Makecode. It is full of tutorials for the EV3, such as:
• Example programs
• How certain sensors work
• How certain code blocks work
• Instructions for EV3 robots
• And much more.
Is this what you're looking for?

Thank you for your response. I did see that option, but I wasn't a huge fan. I like the block style code for at least a little intro as I have a wide range of abilities in my classes. This isn't a horrible option but it is scratch based and there is no option to test the code to see what the robot physically does. There is an option to see the brick move the motors and sensors, but I think seeing the robot actually move is more beneficial to the students.

@Ryan Can't you teach them how to download the actual software?

Nevermind, iOS devices are not compatible with it unfortunately. Also, do they even have the EV3 with them at home?

Our students are not 1:1 so they have to use their personal computers so downloading any software is not an option unfortunately since not everyone has the same device it would cause compatibility issues. No they do not have their EV3 robots at home. I was trying to find a web based option where they could code using the block style code like in the Mindstorms software where they could then run their robot in a virtual world sort of like what can be done with RobotC but web based. I know this is asking a lot but I want to try to keep them learning as close to the school environment as possible

@Ryan I'm sorry, I don't know any website that meets all of the criteria. I will do a few google searches to see if I can find anything else. You should search too.

No worries thank you, I have been looking myself and didn't have any luck yet

@Ryan also, it's not possible to have a virtual EV3 studio thing where the EV3 can actually move its motors and you can see what's going on. Only real-life can show that, and software like stud.io can only show the model in it's inactive state and show instructions, but it cannot actually test how it moves and it's physics. It would not be possible to stuff it all in a single website, which means that Microsoft Makecode is your best bet.

Thank you for your help. Thats what I had found as well unfortunately, back to the drawing board.

There is a program called Robot Virtual Worlds:
http://www.robotvirtualworlds.com/
... but it is a downloaded program vs. web based.  You might be able to use a remote desktop sharing program (VNC, Skype, Zoom, MS Teams, Team Center, etc.) to access remotely, or contact them if they're considering a "cloud hosted" option.
They do offer a free trial, so you can always experiment to see if it works at all for you.

VMs with students!?!? Are you kidding me? I think that you're bringing this a little too far, and hopefully it supports almost all video cards that currently exist, otherwise it still may be a problem. I don't see how you're going to inject a VM into another student's computer, and the OP does not look like an advanced computer technician (or whatever you need to be to manipulate VMs) so I don't think it's possible.

Not suggesting anything about VMs.  The Remote Desktop would allow OP to install the program on a school PC and then "share" it with students.  It would probably involve school IT support, and not sure how well the remote connection may work.  However, it offers a virtual LEGO robot that can be programmed without physical hardware, using same/similar programming tools as the "real" robot.  The best case scenario would be if the RVW developers could offer a web based client (cloud hosted) vs. download only.

@mindstormsboi You may not be aware of this, but the tone in your comment above reads a bit aggressive to me. I'd hate for folks to get the wrong impression of you. Please be more considerate of your tone when commenting in the future.

Perhaps you should try CoderZ. I think that it would fill your requirements. An online coding environment where you can also see the robots virtually move as they have been programmed. I have never actually used this before but I think that you should have a look at it. Happy Programming.

Welcome to Bricks.SE! Do you have any relationship with CoderZ? It's not a problem if you do, but we do ask that you disclose this. I am curious to understand why you are recommending this product if you haven't used it before.

In answer to your question. I do not have any relationship with CoderZ. Also, I didn't say I was recommending it, I just said to perhaps try it, although I understand that it could be taken as recommending it.(I just wanted to try and help someone, and I think that CoderZ fitted what he asked for).

Thanks for sharing. This software looks like a potential solution to me. It was flagged as possible spam, so I wanted to make sure that this was a genuine recommendation of this product. Thanks for helping out!


text:
Pirates of Barracuda Bay 21322 - Is there a way to get the ship pirating-worthy?
From what I have read, when you convert the island to a seaworthy ship, you are still left with the inn part, and no cannons on the ship. All the portholes are gone or converted to windows.
Is there a way to get the cannons back on the ship? Preferably using only pieces from the set? If pieces needs to be added, what is the simplest way to make that conversion?

The review over at Brickset mentions this exact modification:

Pearl gold windows are fixed inside each gunport, preventing the deployment of cannons. While this seems slightly odd, the lattices can be removed and replaced with cannons, as demonstrated here. I appreciate these options but some furniture must be removed from inside to create enough space for the weapons, corresponding with the officers' quarters on historic ships where cannons could replace tables and chairs during battle.

(Emphasis by me)

Nice find, thank you

source: Stack Exchange

license: Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/

sort: votes


text:
Are all of these police minifigs from LEGO?
While I'm glad LEGO is taking a principled stand on recent events, I've seen this set of police minifigs circulating on social media portraying the evolution of LEGO Police through time:

I don't have any trouble believing the 3 minifigs on the left are legitimate minifigs from LEGO sets, but the fourth one looks much more militaristic than I imagine LEGO would put into a set. Can anyone identify this minifig or confidently rule out it being a LEGO minifig? If anybody wants to identify the first three, that would be cool too.
My first guess was that the long gun was from BrickArms, but I didn't see anything there that has a scope and a forward handgrip. Can you identify the assault rifle?

That 4th one is definitely not an official LEGO product. I'll probably leave to someone who can identify what it actually is to post an answer.

On a side note, this is actually the first police set with minifigures although they are different from the modern minifig.

If you look closely at the second one, you'll see that it was roughly cropped out of some other photo with some not-very-good lighting.

Be aware that unofficial mods and customizations of official Lego figures is a thing. It's possible to take an official figure and add unofficial clothes/ gear/ weapons/ slogans... you can see how this could get out of control esp. currently, and that's before we even get to Photoshop.

A YMCA LEGO set.

As pointed out by others, the first three minifigures are genuine LEGO (with the second having perhaps a few custom accessories). The fourth is not a LEGO minifig. It may include some genuine LEGO elements (legs, hands, etc), but the militaristic accessories are not LEGO elements. This appears to be a custom minifig sold at one time by Modern Brick Warfare.

Not only does LEGO not include guns in their City sets, they also have much better lighting for their minifig photos than this.

100% Real LEGO™! Obviously fake

Oh! The "timeline" creator stole the minifig image from this site! That explains everything!

@mindstormsboi Indeed. I found it via Google's reverse image search.

@mindstormsboi the "!00% real LEGO" refers to the minifigure, not the accessories ;)

@Zhaph-BenDuguid That's a very good point, but there's another point to make: It says "This is the perfect minifig to add to your city!" but if you made a giant Lego city with that minifig and put it in a brickvention, everyone's gonna shoot you dirty looks and you can guess what happens next. So who even knows if that info is true or not??

@mindstormsboi "The minifigure is in NEW condition and made with 100% Real LEGO! The weapons and fear are high quality and made to last" and "The M4A1 officer comes with: 1x Real LEGO minifigure 1x M4A1 assault rifle 1x tactical helmet [...] 1x tactical gas mask 1x tactical body armour 1x tactical belt with G17 pistol" - and you're buying it from a site that produces compatible weapons and armour. The base figure is legitimate, all accessories are custom made by the seller.

Minifigs can't even hold that kind of gun properly since their arms only rotate on one axis.  Even if it's spaced correctly to fit in both hands at once, he'd be aiming sideways all the time.

@DarrelHoffman to be fair, minifig's can't really hold the legitimate musket/rifles properly from the pirates range either, nor brooms and most other two handed accessories as the hands are angled as well.

These are identified from left to right.
Series 18 of Lego Minifigures has that first policeman. Here is the exact minifigure.
The second one appears to be from Series 9 of Lego Minifigures. Here is the exact minifigure.
The third policeman appears to be LEGO Policeman with Riot Helmet Minifigure with a different head. The head might be Minifigure, Head Male Black Eyebrows, Chin Dimple and Lopsided Grin Pattern - Hollow Stud.
As Alexander O'Mara pointed out, the fourth one is totally not official Lego. It is likely this guy and whoever made the timeline did not bother to think about the excessive military detail in this minifigure (Lego doesn't even make military content anyways).

Actually, the "timeline" is quite inaccurate. The first policeman being shown was actually released in 2018, however it is most likely a reference to the very first policemen (which look almost identical). Sometimes I mix up the two minifigs by accident, and I suppose the same story goes here (or (s)he probably did it because there are not many good pics of the early police guys y'know). The second and third policemen being shown were released in the same year, 2013. And the fourth one is not even real Lego, so who even knows about when it was made??

Your link in the footnote goes to a firefighter, not a policeman. There were policemen at that time, too, really similar to the one in the timeline, like this one

@AngewisnolongerproudofSO Actually you're right, the minifig from 621 is a better example.

The only weapons I've ever found in Lego are the ray guns in the space sets and the historic series (castle/pirate/etc.).

@Joshua - Quite a few of the licensed themes also have various styles of guns in - LEGO Indiana Jones, Star Wars (although that might be covered by your ray guns), Jurassic World - see also "Rifle" or "Gun".

all_licenses: Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/


text:
What is this old wheel brick?
What is this old wheel brick? Wheels are also available in about the half size. They have metal axles.

The question seems to be more about the wheels than the center brick.  I'm guessing that Kurbo assumed it was one part, and not an assembly.

@chicks I disagree, because how are you supposed to know if the wheels have metal axles without taking them apart? Still, I admit that this is not exactly a duplicate. But this question has already been smashed 2 times with a dupe-hammer anyways.

I did assume that they were always bundled together - I didn't think that they would have separate part numbers.

Yes, it is. Early 1960's a British consortium with new Lego parts, 2 size of wheels, turn-table & towbar. The axle bricks contains Nylon tubes, these hold wheel axle & as  not fixed can turn. 1st have red underside,  then came with   clear there, see red tube across & black at ends.

There are some variants registered on bricklink, but judging by the name and the presence of the brick in the middle, I guess the closest is:
Wheel with 12 Studs and Axle Cam with Light Gray Tire Smooth - Large (715a / 36)
The small version you mention is probably:
Wheel with 4 Studs and Axle Cam with Light Gray Tire Smooth - Small (7039b / 132-old)

The wheels can be removed from the brick

That was mostly why I went with a variant with the axle.

Thank you! @Henriksupportsthecommunity

Henrik covered wheels, so I'll just mention the brick used to attach these - Brick, Modified 2 x 4 with Wheels Holder, Trans-Clear Bottom

As noted on Bricklink there could be some variations of this brick:

Several versions of this brick exist. Bush colors have been reported as red, black, milky white, and mixed colors, as well as a version missing the middle bush.


text:
Identify these windows/doors
I have these old windows. I am unsure if they are even official lego.

LEGO logo is visible inside hollow studs on genuine parts. While it is hard to identify if pictured items are genuine LEGO parts, such elements have been produced as LEGO:
Window 1 x 6 x 3 Panorama with Glass

Window 1 x 3 x 2 could be either one of these.
Door 1 x 2 x 3 Hinge on Left

Window 1 x 1 x 2 could be in two versions: with integrated glass (single piece) or with glass that can be attached (two pieces together).

Indeed, they do have "Lego" on the inside of the hollow studs. The hollow studs, and the slightly unusual lower attachment confused me. Thank you @alex

Without a closer inspection I can't say if yours are genuine, but LEGO has made windows that look like that. Several (most?) variants (including all of yours) can be found in e.g. Ten Windows and Doors, White


text:
Can Lego Remote Control 88010 control Lego Technic Hub 88012?
I have been exploring the new Bluetooth Technic smart hubs with the Control+ app and PoweredUp app. I would like to also use a physical remote.
I have the Technic smart hubs that come with the Liebherr 9800. I see this hub with different IDs on Bricklink (88012 and bb0961c01).
Will the train remote 88010 work with the Technic smart hubs 88012 aka bb0961c01?
I see this how-to-connect question, but that is to the train hub 88009.

Just to make things a little more clear - 88012 is number used to represent a Technic hub as a set (this is what you can buy directly from online LEGO store) and bb0961c01 is ID used to identify Technic Hub as a part (which is what comes inside a sealed set). So technically, bb0961c01 should be part of 88012 set. Not sure why this relationship hasn't been done for this particular case yet, since such approach has been used for other PU parts.

No. I got the 42099 4x4 Off-roader recently, as well as the 60198 Cargo train. The monster truck didn't come with a physical remote, so I needed the app for it, unlike the cargo train which had both remote and app too.
The monster truck used a control system called Control+, while the train used another one called PoweredUP. I already felt it wouldn't work.
It wouldn't. I tried both of my PoweredUP remotes on the truck, but no response.  I tried them on both my Cargo Train and Passenger Train and they worked fine. They just didn't work on the monster truck.
And Lego never explicitly told us that they were compatible with eachother.

Thank you for those references!

@Jeff you are welcome! Do not forget to click the checkmark near my answer to mark it as accepted!

Technic hub has 4 ports/output, while train hub just 2. Now I wonder how can remote controller (88010), which can only operate two ports. knows which outputs it should actually control on Technic hub.

@Alex Oh, that corcerns me. Try looking here and seeing if there's any other info about the remote.

@mindstormsboi Technic hub wasn't released by the time those answers have been published.

@Jeff turns out I was wrong, it actually doesn't work. I will update my answer.

@mindstormsboi what do y'all think about this reference: https://lan.lego.com/news/overview/a-message-from-the-powered-up-team-r260/ from May 29 2020 says the "TECHNIC™ HUB (88012)" - "Connects via Bluetooth to the LEGO® Powered Up app and the Control handset". Does "Control handset" mean the train remote 88010? I should just buy the train already. :)

@Jeff We have more evidence that it works than that it doesn't, so I guess you're right??

Finally found clear evidence! https://youtu.be/hLbr4si2Qfs

I got a 42099 4x4 X-treme Off-Roader too, and found that Power UP App (current version is 3.6.0) can connect to the Technic smart hub. Click Bluetooth button in Create Mode, and then press the green button on hub. Enjoy yourself:)

didnt notice that...


text:
60197 Passenger Train control problem
Weird problem here.
My son has had the 60197 train for about a year and I decided to try out the powered-up app for the first time today.
After what seemed to be some kind of software update, which took about 2 minutes, the app connected, but did nothing.
When I went back to use the remote that came with the train, the remote now only moves the train at maximum speed.
To make matters worse, stop does not work, instead pressing the forward or backward buttons on the remote always do the following:
First press: full speed forwards

Second press: full speed backwards

Third press: stop
...Which pretty much renders it unusable as full speed is rather unstable.
Also, channel B is now no longer working.
Has anyone else ever seen anything like this?
I have replaced the batteries in both units and have uninstalled the app and even tried with my phone off just in case something is interfering with the connection.
We are stumped!

Hmm, very strange.  We cannot solve this, so you should contact Lego's customer service at https://lego.com/service and they will give you a replacement for free. They occasionally make oopsies with their technical components every now and then, and I've had a similar problem with the Boost 17101 hub lacking connection under common circumstances.
Also, you've asked another question:

Has anyone else ever seen anything like this?

Yes, I've seen such problems before. I already said that my Boost hub has had unintentional connection issues. One person has had EV3 port power issues, and on Eurobricks some other person is also having a malfunctioning hub. Once again, Lego occasionally makes these technical mistakes every now and then.

Thanks for answering, I’ve sent a mail to Lego and I’ll post on here when I get an update from them.

Not sure if you could say LEGO always has issues like that - they would go bankrupt or stop releasing items like that all. Occasionally - sure, always - definitely not. Similar issues have happened with previous generation - Power Functions - elements as well. It is not uncommon for electronics to misbehave.

Thank you @Alex I've edited my answer now.

I thought I’d update you on the situation for anyone else in a similar position.
I got in touch with Lego via email, it took a while for them to get back due to the COVID-19 pandemic, which is totally understandable.
I received a bright breezy fun reply from someone called Ryan who said he would send me replacement battery box and remote.  Once I received these items, the train worked for about an hour and then stopped working.
After troubleshooting, I found that the connecting wire must have had a break near or inside the connector.  I contacted Lego again, and they sent me a replacement set of motorised wheels.
They asked me to send back the faulty items using a supplied label.
Absolutely awesome service from Lego.


text:
What is this piece?
I found this in my lego collection and can't find the name or id of the piece.

This is part #30092
Minifigure, Utensil Underwater Scooter Octagonal with Handles
In black, it appears in three sets


text:
Putting tires onto axles
I have vintage Lego sets (1970's and '80's).  I absolutely cannot get the tire to fit completely over the axle.  Should I try grease or hot water?  I know this is the correct tire because I have some that already have the tire over the axle.  Please help!!

Does the assembly on the right side picture the issue where left tire fits nicely and the right one doesn't?

From my experience with tires you mention is that they don't sit symmetrically when placed improperly as they should be. Try going around the tire and pulling it slightly outwards as well as twisting a little from the side with larger outside diameter to center.
This happens with newer sets also.

The small tires Tire 14mm D. x 4mm Smooth Small Single , fit the brick on the left side Brick, Modified 2 x 2 with Wheels Red for Single Tire
not the plate on the rightside Plate, Modified 2 x 2 with Wheels Red
you will need different tires for that one

While none of the sets had the combination in question, both the brick and plate seem to have the same axle: brick and plate. So they should be compatible.


text:
Train track design
I have some old lego train tracks from 1984 set: 7715 and I would like to use them with
my latest Lego train set: 60197 to increase the size of my layout, are these tracks compatible?
or can they be adapted? I only want to run the 60197 train but would like to use up the old track.


text:
Can the Hogwarts Express train be motorised?
Can a Power Functions motor be fitted into the LEGO "Hogwarts Express" train? I have a spare motor and battery box and would like to fit them into this train.

There have been several Hogwarts Express trains released by LEGO. Which one you are looking to motorise?

One of the many sets released (10132) even comes motorised.

joedub55, can you please give us either the number or a photo of the set? There are seven (ok, really 6, since the microscale one is out of the question) that it could be. Or rather 5, since 10132 is also sold with a rail pack. And since that one is already motorized, there are really 4 options left: 75955, 4841, 4758 and 4708.

I don't think we have to close the question right now, we can just wait another day and if still no response then we can tell if all 5 Hogwarts variations can be motorized with PF. That means we can still answer the question, right?

@mindstormsboi Closing it now would prevent answers about a set OP didn't have in mind. We can always reopen when it is really answerable.

I'll assume you mean the most recent Hogwards express but this applies to most trains:
The simplest way to motorize most Lego steam engine sets that weren't made for motorization is to rebuild the coal car to sit on the train motor and contain the battery box. This typically results in a somewhat oversized coal car, but it's not ridiculously sized. If you are using the new Powered Up components, you don't need an IR sensor and you're done with just the battery box and motor. If you're using the older IR Power Functions you need to place the IR sensor somewhere: this typically involves rebuilding part of the locomotive. If you have the Power Functions train motor, but don't want to use the IR sensor, you can use the rechargeable battery box which has a built-in speed control switch. The downside is you have to catch the moving train to turn it off.
Building a powered self-contained locomotive is challenging as most steam locomotives are not wide enough to conceal a battery box, and the train motor isn't well suited to the typical spacing of the steam engine train wheels. Not to mention that its speed assumes small train wheels, so the larger wheels will spin as fast, but because of the larger diamter, the train will be faster. It's possible, but tricky, to build a steam engine where the front wheels use the train motor: I did it, but there are serious technical challenges to making it run reliably. I ended up having to switch the large wheels from a "flange, no-flange, flange" driver configuration to a "no-flange, flange, no-flange" configuration, so that the locomotive could go around corners.

Great stuff thanks for the help I think I might have to change my plans a little

@joedub55 Go on and click the checkmark next to the answer to mark it as accepted.


text:
Can you help me identify this part?
After a lot of circus and calisthenics with a magnifying glass and lamp, I'm still unable to read the part number. I've also clicked thru' about 180 pages of LEGO 'Pick a Brick' and didn't find it there.
Could someone please help me identify this part number? Apologies in advance for my failing eyesight :)

This is part 11458 Plate, Modified 1 x 2 with Pin Hole on Top. Much easier to find on Bricklink than by scrolling through Pick-a-Brick. Welcome to Bricks.SE!

You did me a solid. Thanks!

That is a cable guide. you attach it to your house when you want to string your telephone or internet cable from the low-hanging utility wires. It provided tautness for the cable. I mean, not real tautness but enough so the cables don't hang.

Cable guide?? Wrong. If it was a cable guide you would be able to open the hole to attach the wire otherwise it wouldn't fit due to the plug. This site is about Lego.

You can, definitely, use this piece as you have described, but this isn't its primary use. Especially, within other LEGO items.


text:
Please identify the set(s) that these come from
I have bought an auction lot of LEGO packs. I thought that I'd be able to identify the instructions from the QR codes on the bags, but apparently not. Is anyone here able to help?

Slightly better photos:(http://www.imagebam.com/image/f8759e1346605880)
(http://www.imagebam.com/image/9b92721346606001)
(http://www.imagebam.com/image/6a46d51346606118)
(http://www.imagebam.com/image/89c6771346606190)

I had to shrink the image quality in order to upload the images, I hope that's fine with you. I'm still keeping the older links since they hold the original photos, which weren't modified.

Items in the last photo hardly can be used to identify the set since they are stored in ziploc bags rather than sealed polybag. Which means there could a random mix of bricks.

@Alex Looks like some random mix indeed. That blue tile is part of only 12 sets. I can't see any match. And I think mindstormsboi has already checked with the grille pieces...

@Uli Yeah, I don't really understand why you'd put a computer screen into  a building that's colored like a cave/mountain, and neither do I understand why you'd put those grilles in such build either. There are several other unique parts in the bag that don't really match the theme as well. Perhaps you can add this info to your existing answer.

@mindstormsboi I wonder if those extra parts were being advertisedv as such in the auction. That would really explain their randomness...

Ho Ho Ho!
Your four sealed bags (from first through third images) are Mr. Claus and Mrs. Claus

Item No: 40274-1

Building instructions at lego.com

It seems like the polybags on 3rd photo are from the same set as well.

@Alex I think you're right. The building instructions show two bags (#1 for her, #2 for him). But I can see 4 bags in an unboxing video on youtube. Looks like the smaller parts are in 2 seperate bags.

Thanks guys. That's something to go on at least. And a festive ornament for my lads room for a few years it would seem!


text:
Can't figure out what set these marvel-related bags belong to

I can't figure out what set these bags go to. I see an Iron Man minifigure in one of the bags and the bag has 741R9 on it.

Note that the numbers on the bag don't give any help to us since there is no source we can use to identify the set using that number. If it had the actual set number then that would be better, but Lego never bothers to add that info on their bags unfortunately.

A distinctive items in Bag 1, Trans-Light Blue -Dish 6 x 6 Inverted (Radar) Webbed  Type 2, exists in 15 sets.  2 of these contain Iron Man
Of these Set 76125-1: Iron Man Hall of Armor also contains the Bright Pink and Lime Green round 1x1 plates seen in Bag 3

One of the things about BricksSE that still remain a big mystery to me is how you manage to find the exact set! Usually I just have to guess and look at the entire set to see if it looks somewhat similar, but it seems like you guys are using a special tool that looks for sets that have a specific group of parts (which obviously makes life easier)! What is that tool you're using?!?

@mindstormsboi Bricklink - it has a good (but not necessarily complete) list of sets and parts.  Identify a part that looks like it might be uncommon, do a search for it, match the colour, and then look at the sets.  If there are too many sets with that part, try a different part.  Then, compare the Parts Lists.  In this case, the fact that I could quickly check if any of the sets were "Marvel" themed (i.e. might contain Iron Man) was a big help, so kudos to OP for including that.


text:
Can you identify these railings?
Can anyone identify the railings around this building?
I thought they might be ladders placed horizontally, but I don't see any clips.

This could be either Fence 1 x 4 x 2 Spindled with 2 Studs

Or Fence 1 x 4 x 2 Spindled with 4 Studs


text:
Partial Truck needs to be identified
I've acquired a partially built truck (2 sets wheels so not huge), of which the bottom section is all I have (from the floor down). There is a transfer on both sides (on red bricks, which made me think of a fire truck, but no luck). This sticker looks like an advertisement or sponsorship logo you might see on a vehicle. It says Octan, then Tele (with the top of the T being a telephone receiver), then a white square with a black border with the initials CB in black typeface in it. It also has a tow hitch on the rear. Any ideas what model number I've got?

Welcome Paul! Can you add a picture of the build to help us help you?

Based on your description of the brick with “transfers”, which I assume are stickers, there is only one set that has Octan and Tele logos on it: 60084 Racing Bike Transporter. This set seems to match the rest of your description as well.

Fantastic, that's the one. Thank you, now to see if I can build the rest of it.


text:
What LEGO set is this bag with minidoll?
Can anyone help me identify the set that these parts come from?
The bag is number two.

I believe this is Heartlake Hot Air Balloon (41097).

The red striped torso only appears in a few sets, and it's fairly obvious from the rest of the parts which one this is.
Here's what that bag builds specifically:


text:
How to update item prices in a Bricklink store?
I have a BL store in which I have parted out a huge collection of LEGO sets. During the part out I set the item prices so that they match the average on BL. However, after a while, I noticed that due to the price changes, some of my items became significantly cheaper or more expensive than the average. Neither of them is desirable. Is there a way to update the pricing of my store including all items to match the current BL average prices?

The easiest way is to download and install Brickstock (www.patrickbrans.com is the site it is located on AFAIK), pay for the upgrade to the full version ($20 via paypal) and then download your entire store inventory, do ctrl-A ctrl-G which downloads the current prices, and use the “update inventory in bricklink” option from the File menu to set the new prices.

It looks like https://brickstock.patrickbrans.com/ is the URL.

Since the Brickstock application seems to be abandoned, I use Brickstore instead, but the process is the same.


text:
Lego Mindstorms NXT 2.0 brick is not working
Recently, I tried to get my old NXT 2.0 brick fixed.
Everything seemed to point to the clicking brick problem, but it turns out not to be the only thing, the brick was also getting hot. After disassembling it, I found that the "q27" transistor was burning up.
There is "11 2x" written on the part, but it didn't point me to anything on the internet and I couldn't find any schematic for NXT 2.0 on the web. Any ideas how to identify the part?
Or maybe anyone saw the schematic for NXT 2.0?
Would writing an email to Lego give me anything?

writing to lego will not help as they are no longer working on the NXT, alternatively you can buy a replacement from third-party seller like eBay.

I do not think this is something we can solve, we are not expert technicians using weird electric thingies to spot other weird electric thingies. I think you should probably buy a replacement.

@mindstormsboi Even though the subject matter of this site is not electronics, it is a valid LEGO question, and I think the tone of your comment is not very welcoming to the OP, who is asking for our help.

It's ok. The thing I was after the most is the schematic. If it isn't anywhere, I'm out of luck and will reverse engineer the power regulator inside. I will let you know how it goes.

If the getting the schematic is the main goal then perhaps we should change the title of the question.

@mindstormsboi this is wrong. I recently contacted Lego about a dead screen and they gave me a replacement brick.

HI bit old now but did you find the problem as i have the same issue Q26 and Q27 very hot, and have the brick click. TP87 at 8.7v OK, and TP90 at 5v again ok.
Brick does not appear on USB.

The electrial schematic for the NXT is available in the LEGO "NXT Hardware Developer Kit". This can be found on the official LEGO MINDSTORMS download page near the bottom of the page in the Advanced Users – Developer Kits section.

It is likely that the main chip is dead. But if you don't have decent soldering gear then you might as well just get a new brick.

It will never hurt to contact Lego support. Customer support is busy right now so at worst you will get a no in a few days. I have had great experience with Lego support, sending me replacement pieces and replacing my NXT brick with a dead screen (common problem). You may need to provide some proof of purchase (for the NXT brick I wasn't, and I don't remember for the pieces).


text:
How can I make my LEGO engine go faster
I have a LEGO engine powered by a PF XL motor but I didn't realize until now that the motor is not that fast and that even when I increase gear ratio the gears always get either unattached or jammed.

What should I do?

Update:
Thanks to mindstormsboi and Alex I was able to change the design of the engine to the following. It works much better now.

What does your engine do? Why do you want it go faster? I think I can see two ramps. Is this a GBC module? If you remove the motor and crank by hand, does it still jam?

Following your update I can see you've skipped bracing your gear assembly. Since you still use XL-motor I would go with following setup: motor - Technic bricks (1 stud wide) - gears(1st pair) - Technic bricks (1 stud wide) - 2nd pair of gears - last set of Technic bricks (1 stud wide) - output axle. This will ensure your gears won't move under load.

No i did not? I just put up a picture of it without its brace so you could see how the drivetrain works!

@Nerd You forgot to use that @ again...

If you need a fast motor but not having too much torque, yet powerful enough
 - consider using a PF L-motor. It has roughly half of the XL-motor's torque, but twice as much rpm.
The PF XL-motor has high torque, considering its intended application with LEGO. This is known to cause some serious damage to gears if the assembly isn't rigid enough. It is essential to have your gears braced properly from both sides. Otherwise your gears will be slipping and/or grinding under load. In your picture you have your gears braced from one side only - this will cause you problems. You need to construct rigid bracing from the other side as well.
I find Sariel's Gear Ratio Calculator useful for finding the right gears for your application.

I know it really does hurt my gears! If you look in the picture closely at the small gears teeth, they look all scraped and rigged. I have already gone through 2 gears ! Lmao! Thanks so much for the usefull tip it actualy worked and now i can actualy see the engine go fast without hearing that scratching on the poor little gear

To me, that does not really look like a proper gear train. I recommend that you line up all your gears on a technic beam and stick axles through them (and obviously bushes so they don't fall out). You also need to be using the correct gears. In other words, the ones you're using seem incompatible with each other, so you need to find gears that are designed to work together such as this gear with this gear combined and this gear with this gear combined. Also, make sure that any other Lego bricks are not interfering with the gear train. More info about gear trains.
Here is an example of what I mean:

As you can see there are no bushes attached to the axle, but that's because I'm using axles with stop. I lined up my gears on a beam without putting them too far or too close from each other and now they freely spin with no problem.
You also wonder how to make your engine faster. If using one single big gear and another small gear together is not fast enough, try adding some more. I will show you one way of doing this step-by-step.

Above is one big gear and one smaller gear, which is considerably faster than without any gears at all (unless you use the smaller gear as input gear, which gives opposite effect). If it is not fast enough for you, then we will expand the gear train to make it faster.

Now there is another big gear on top of the small one. This is because another small gear will follow after it, which will be almost twice as fast as the previous small gear.

Now there is the smaller gear. As I already said, it will be faster than the previous one due to the size of the other gears following it.

Now we put a bush under it to prevent it from slipping. You might think I could've put another big gear there instead, but no, I can't, because it will ruin the gear train and jam it up. The gear train will therefore continue on the other side of the beam, like so:

A big gear was placed on the other side of the beam to continue the gear train, and of course, a smaller gear will follow after it. But keep in mind that the smaller gear should be on the right axle from the bigger gear, not the left, because the axles on the left are already controlled by gears and you may end up twisting the axle or breaking the teeth off of the gears above them. It is also worth noting that putting too many gears will make it too hard for the motor to move them due to the heavy load of overall friction between them, so don't try to make it too fast.
Update: Here's another picture of some example gear trains taken from this answer:

You can also use gear links to make your gears faster while they are spread apart, as seen here:

Just note that there are different variations of those gear links which are designed to work with different gears.

Comments are not for extended discussion; this conversation has been moved to chat.


text:
Stained glass windows on The Throneroom of Cedrica
Can anyone explain how to make the stained glass windows in builds like The Throneroom of Cedrica?

I see that this popped up on HNQ, so I wanted to expand on shoover's excellent answer with a build showing one way that this could be put together for folks that may not be as familiar with LEGO elements as the Bricks community.

As was already pointed out, the key element here is the 2x2 turntable base without a turntable attached:

Here's how you might pair those elements with transparent 1x1 and 1x2 elements to build a stained glass window:

We leave a couple of 1x2 plates overhanging the back to provide attachment points.
Here it is from the front. Notice that we also add a couple of 1x1 plates on the front side to make the connection points flush with the rest of the window:

Now we can build a frame to trim this out and create a nice looking window:

We can then attach our window using the attachment points that we left for ourselves in the back side of the Erling bricks:

Note that I'm not trying to replicate the exact techniques used by the original designer, but this does show one way to get a similar look. I've added the parts list on Rebrickable if you want to see exactly what I used and build this yourself.

From this picture and this one, you can see that the framing of the windows is formed by Turntable 2 x 2 Plate, Base in black.
For the colored areas (the "stained glass"), you have a couple of options:

You could use different "Trans-X" colored Plate, Round 1 x 1 inserted into the back, but you'll need some trans-clear plates to back them up so the structure holds together.
You could use different "Trans-X" colored Plate 1 x 2 inserted into the back, in an overlapping/alternating pattern for structural strength.
You could use a combination, some 1x1 and some 1x2 for strength.

I don’t think it’s as simple as that. The construction you describe would fall apart, as there is nothing holding the turntables together. There is either a layer of trans-clear plates behind the trans-X 1x1s, or most of the 1x1s are actually 1x2s that are alternatingly placed to either tie the turntable bases to the window frames, or to tie adjacent turntable bases together.

I started to agree with you, but then I noticed in the above picture in the rightmost panel there is a single blue space with no other blue spaces near it. However, on second or third look, it does appear that many/most of the colored spaces come in pairs. The OP has already accepted the answer; would it be bad form to edit in an alternate explanation using trans-X 1x2s? I think the crux of the question might be about the turntable base, anyway.

It is fine to update the answer with new details. After all this is how we keep them relevant and update with new information. You can actually have both suggestions in your answer - using 1x1's with extra layer of Trans-Clear plates as well as alternating 1x2 plates.

@shoover Great update!

Is there anything saying that any of that picture is legal construction?  Couldn't the windows be the turntable plates glued together and then just have some thin plastic sheet colored with markers for the "glass" behind all of it?  And to answer my own question there is another photo that clearly shows the tiles stuck behind the plates holding them together.

It's also possible that each turntable is held via scaffolding or other constructions to a frame behind the wall. if each 2x2 table had 1 2x1 trans plate, that plate could hold it against the columns or a frame behind the columns.

separating the turntable disk from the turntable, uh, table is already as illegal as it gets, almost as bad as building something from just figure arms or hands.

@Cee McSharpface these turntables come as two parts in sets. So, unless you have already assembled them together, there is nothing illegal in using just a base.

really, I was not aware. don't remember to have assembled any of these, and I built many sets - maybe they used to come preassembled in the eighties :). however, this is genius and creative repurposing at its best.

@Cee as far as I remember yes, they used to. But you know how it is, few seconds for a child to assemble one, a lot of labor costs for the company to assemble all.

well, well...


text:
If I were to make a LEGO fan how would I make it blow air on me?
I was just wandering off into my imagination and then it hit me: I should make a LEGO fan?
I mean, how hard could it be?

It is actually very hard for me. No matter how much ratio I put on it, it would not blow air! Even when it does it always ends up blowing backwards. Please give me some tips.

If it's blowing backwards, then put the blades the other way around.

@OrangeDog Or sit behind it.

@Nerd please label your sketch, i.e. sizes of gears and bricks...

@Nerd you can check Hobbyking.com where you will find lot of propellers and electric engines that will adapt to the size and shape of your build. Building a propeller with lego bricks may be dangerous (perhaps was not your intention but just to warn you).

As I also have tried building something like a fan, my notifications: it's a matter of proper propeller blades. Although you might think it would be enough if you stack together some plates which end up in a curve (like the scribble in the question) this will not move the air very well. I suppose there are to much air swirls and distortions. try to find some nice smooth plates which you can fix with an angle or use parts which are made for ventilations. another helpful effect might be channeling the air flow like a hair dryer, which sucks air in and blows it in just one direction.

I question the safety of this idea - LEGO holds together really well, but centripetal forces will eventually thrown parts of it.  So you will need a cage for the fan blades such that the biggest gap is smaller than the smallest component.  Also needed to keep fingers and hair out of the moving parts.   Perhaps use a regular fan but build a LEGO case for the body?   And perhaps make a one-piece LEGO-style fan boss for the middle of the blades of a normal fan.

But @Criggie, i do not have a fan that i can use scrap off of i do have one but i actualy use it when sleeping in my bed at night (plus my wife would get mad cause she also uses it) and thats excatly why i wanted to make one so that i could actualy feel air and not have to use the fan my wife has

@Criggie From plenty of experience; it'll be fine.

A fan is just 1/4 of a drone, right? Check out this lego drone that actually flies, for inspiration. https://youtu.be/wUVvQk7XLd4

The blade part in question is 89509

Thanks for the tips but its not! I should have been more specific, its a desktop fan! One that you use to cool a office down or something

@Nerd: what is a desktop but a stationary n-copter, where n=1...

@smci And tilted 90 degrees to whatever side to direct the airflow into whatever direction you need it.

"A fan is just 1/4 of a drone, right?" -- Kids these days...

@Nerd While it's hard to tell without a picture, from your description of it blowing air "around the fan and not towards your face", it just sounds like the airflow design isn't right. The shape of the blades is the most important part. Also fans that are meant to be very directional sometimes have some fins or something in front of the fan to direct the airflow, that could help too if the blades aren't ideal. The other thing is the shape of any case you build around the fan can impact the airflow. And finally it's possible your motor isn't fast enough and you may have to add gears/belts.

Also I'm not sure how into math you are, and it might be a little advanced, but if you really want to get into it check out this PDF on fan aerodynamics, the Wikipedia page on axial fan design, and Google for "fan design", "axial fan engineering", "fan blade design", etc.

And btw i used lego flat plates and stacked them in a way that it could go around in circles more smoothly

I mean, the drone bit is a joke, obv, but seriously speaking the drone flies because it moves air in the right direction. So if you built one of the propeller assemblies as shown in the video, you'd be able to move a significant amount of air. Then all you need to do is angle the assembly so that the air goes where you want.

@Nerd Have you tried reversing the stacking order?  Can you attach a photo of your fan blade to your question (and an indicator of which way it spins) rather than an MS Paint illustration?

The easiest way to do this would be to use a motor with a high speed (or gear up a lower speed motor) and then attach one of the larger propeller elements to it. You can probably build a custom prop, but it might be challenging to build something with the proper blade angle while keeping it light and strong enough to not break apart when rotating quickly.
Something like 2952 should work:

You mentioned that your original design was blowing air backwards. This can likely be fixed by reversing the motor direction.

If it's blowing air backwards, the easiest thing to do is to simply turn the fan around and point the back toward you. .

@Valorum Great point. A fan is never blowing backwards, you're just sitting on the wrong side of it.

Flipping the blade around will not make the air blow in the opposite direction. This is so important that I feel I have to repeat it: flipping the blade around DOES NOT change direction of air flow. It only makes it flow with less efficiency/less force. You need to reverse the motor direction to reverse air flow. The alternative is to use a blade that is opposite handedness but flipping a blade around will not make it the opposite

As for custom blades: it's not hard if you can control. A thin (like about a mm), flat sheet works already. Just put it on a angle of like 8 degrees and you'll notice it works as a prop.


text:
Help identifying this 1x1 2/3 brick (no studs)
I have been trying to identify this 1x1 2/3 (?) brick (looked in Studio, Bricklink parts list, sets, ...) and cannot, for the life of me, identify it. I have been able to find a picture of it and know it exists at least in white and light gray. The closest I got was 49307

Can somebody help me out?

I believe that you are seeing the wide end of a cheese slope like this:

Note that these are simply held in place by friction and not really "connected" in a traditional way.

Ah that explains why i could not find it, i have checked in software and the dimensions of the cheese slope (54200) indeed seem to be correct. I never noticed they were rounded enough around the edges (backside) to given enough "rounding" effect when reversed.
Thanks a lot!


text:
Please help me identify the Lego set
This partial build was put together symmetrically. Both sides are moveable.

Hi nnLego! When uploading pictures please do not remove the text saying "enter description here" because without it the image will not render and we won't see it, and we'll end up thinking that you  didn't add a picture and we would close your question. Thank goodness I checked!

Actually, best way is to really insert descriptions there ;)

This is the rear part of 70009-1: Worriz's Combat Lair:

Oh, we managed to answer simultaneously. Upvoted!

Aw shucks, now all because of my misleading answer I deceived the OP and he's no longer active now apparently and won't see your correct answer, all because of me. Here, I'll give you an upvote, you certainly deserve it.

@mindstormsboi Don't be hard on yourself, many new members engage in ask-and-disappear behaviour, and it's been less than a day since OP has asked the question in the first place.

I think that what the OP has done is unfair, both answers are correct but the OP just accepted only one of the two and gave an extra upvote, which means that you get 35 more rep than Alex (and you probably don't care much about rep at this point) and... I think the OP simply did not even notice the other answer. Should something be done about this?

@mindstormsboi You're right in that I don't care about rep, but on the other hand I don't really see what is the "something" that could be done about it. I could certainly delete my answer, but that would certainly bring more harm (as it is the accepted answer). I'd gladly upvote Alex's answer for a second time, if I could, so I'm open for any suggestions.

That's part of Worriz's Combat Lair (70009) set. You can see the cage between second and last axles.

Wow, answered in the same second :) Jinx! :D


text:
Please help to identify spaceship-like LEGO set
It looks like the framework of a spaceship. Does anyone know what set it's in?

Between the blue pin and the grey plane nose bottom pieces there is a characteristic white wedge piece, which I have searched for. This piece exists in three different designs, each of which is only contained in sets that don't resemble anything like the build your image depicts:

https://brickset.com/sets/containing-part-4264027
https://brickset.com/sets/containing-part-4614247
https://brickset.com/sets/containing-part-6249584

On another path, I searched for the 2x2 brick with two balls, under the golden plate at the back, with the same results:

https://brickset.com/sets/containing-design-17114/
https://brickset.com/sets/containing-design-57908

So this leads me to think that your build is not part of any official sets, or it could be a somewhat modified part of a set.


text:
Is this minifigure with a white shirt showing a little orange monster worth anything?
I have a LEGO minifigure that I am unable to find anywhere on the internet. He has the classic smiling yellow head, with a white torso portraying an orange monster shaped as a 3D cube/hexagon, with little vampire fangs in its mouth and crossed eyes. He has simple red legs. Does anyone know how much it might be worth? I am thinking of selling it.

I've found the legs and the head. I've been doing a few searches that would be guaranteed to get this torso, but so far, it doesn't appear, which makes me think the part is still from a third-party company. You should probably sell this on eBay... (don't sell it on BL, I don't think they allow third-party parts).

I agree, I looked through basically "all" torsos on bricklink and nope. Can't even seem to locate what this logo could be

Just to chime in with my contribution, I have cropped the icon on the torso and ran a reverse Google Image Search, but it has failed to turn up any relevant results. From this I guess the logo is not widely known, thus should be a one-off or at best a small batch. A high resolution, crisp image could help though, where the artwork is in the focus plane.

Everything apart torso has been available in multiple sets. The print on torso is odd though. Normally, for minifigure produced by LEGO, the best smiley you could get is a picture of another minifigure head with some face expression. So this print is some sort of logo. While LEGO produced some minifigures with prints for some special occasions this one looks to be custom (printed by non-LEGO) due to being just a logo, without mentioning any special names, dates or any other meaning being available on the same minifigure.

@mindstormsboi What do you mean? We still don't know anything about this minifig. It could be worthless or priceless.

@Aziraphale I'm guessing the minifigure is worthless because those legs and the head appeared in many, many different minifigs but that torso seems um, very rare since it's barely mentioned on the internet but many Lego fans simply hate clone-brands and would probably not accept the offer of that torso. But maybe on eBay they might, yet I still think the minifig is practically worthless.

@mindstormsboi I also think that it is not valuable. However, it could be a famous Japanese comic book character. So, ebay could be a bad advice since unknown pieces may sell at a very low price. This happened to me with a brick set I bought in South Korea. 1 Euro for a 500-parts set.

It's worth whatever someone will pay you for it.

The classic smiley head alone is selling on Bricklink for US$0.50 - 2.50 on average, depending on used/new and which style of stud. Some have sold for US$6.

The whole minifig assembly reminds me of of those services that allow you to print your own image on a torso piece such as Minifigs.me.

I wouldn't be surprised if this minifig was made using the same service as I cannot identify the graphic. I suspect this minifig could have been ordered as a promotional item.
The actual parts themselves are so common that they might even be the cheapest parts you could get to make a minifig. The parts can be sourced easily for under a dollar assuming you bought the torso without a custom print.


text:
How do I fix a loose joint between the top and bottom of the digger base?

How do I repair a loose-fitting joint between the top and bottom of the Duplo digger base? It has been used for only about a year. Is the wear more likely on the top or the bottom piece?

FYI: The two parts are likely this turntable base and this modified plate.


text:
Pirates of Barracuda Bay 21322 — are there instructions to build it as a seaworthy ship directly?
Are there official or unofficial instructions to build the ship directly, skipping the island stage? I figured that maybe, just maybe some fans prepared them.
The reason is that while it is great for adults as it is, to play with children it would make sense to use chronological order — play with ship, and then crash it.

So far I don't see any sign of your request.

I'm OK with this question staying unanswered, or with no as an answer if someone will be able to do reasonably wide search. I tried to look for it and didn't find, but I know I'm not the most experienced AFOL here ;)

That is fine, I will keep looking if I ever get time for it. It is quite clear to me that cutting out the island part of the instructions simply won't do it due to the design of the ship (it's basically an above-water shipwreck). I don't have the set, so if I don't find custom instructions I'm just gonna have to make them myself with Studio maybe. And my MOCs are generally not-so-good.

The above the water part seems not to be a problem, judging from the photos. It is all the little details that make it look old and beaten up you need to add all the way through the building process.

I've found a studio file for the set but it is slightly incomplete and it is for display only, which means that I probably can't help.

LEGO provide instructions for the alternative build.

However these are given as an 'alteration' of the existing set rather than steps from scratch, this means you must create the official model first before making the changes.

The steps to convert the ship are on pages 412 to 450 of the instructions. Digital PDF instructions can be found on the LEGO site but I have also uploaded an image gallery of all the steps.
It is entirely possible to simply skip building the island stages as you will not need most of those parts in the conversion and the majority of the ship will be built.
My advice would be to follow the instructions ignoring those stages and simply assemble the three parts of the ship, making any alterations necessary using the instructions in the later half.


text:
Putting flipped plates together as close as possible
I have two plates that I would like to connect together and collapse with the studs facing out like in the image below. I need the two plates to sit as close together as possible. But I'd like them to open up fully so all the studs face the same direction as well.
I came up with an idea with horizontal clips and a bar (shown in image). Or maybe using a hinge plate, but then I need to reverse the studs which takes some space.

Any idea how to do it as thin as possible?

You mean that it can expand and close in between?

Yeah I've added two more images showing the hinge action I'd like, but just like it to be as close as possible when closed.

Huh, I recall knowing a few SNOT hacks for this, I'll see if I can recover them. Only thing is that they don't allow to expand the space in between.

Are third party bricks allowed? I know a special brick from a clone-brand that might suit your needs.

I'd appreciate it, thanks.

I'd obviously prefer Lego only, but if it's a much better solution I'd be open to it

There is a bit of a challenge with a geometry. LEGO doesn't produce much symmetrical hinges, otherwise they would be out of system. I could think of the following one piece you could achieve a close result - Hinge Plate 2 x 4 with Pin Hole and 3 Holes - Top. It comes in White color as well, so you could incorporate in your layer of white plates.

Here's a solution using this part. Only downside - it has a little gap.

I think I missed this hinge plate where the connection is offset. I think this may be as thin as possible. Going to try this out. Thanks!

this way it can open and close

Blue = 4276 Hinge Plate 1 x 2 with 2 Fingers
Yellow = 4275 Hinge Plate 1 x 2 with 3 Fingers
LightBlue = Plate 2 x 4
White = Plate 2 x 2
Pink = Plate 1 x 4
Light Bluish Gray = Plate 1 x 3
Yellowish Green = Plate 1 x 2
Red = Tile 2 x 2
Green = Tile 1 x 4

Really cool design, unless I'm not understanding your design correctly, I'm looking to open and close fully like my 2nd and 3rd images. Your design closes as tight as possible which I love, but the light blue piece I think would get in the way when open or closed.

@bsf10 I believe that the "fully opened" state would be a T shape, with the blue part pointing down (or up).  You may be able to use Hinge Plate 1 x 2 with 3 Fingers On Side to make it 1 stud deep instead of 2

Yeah I agree, I love how tight it is but the T shape unfortunately won't fit.

Here is another example why they should re-introduce those lovely 4275/4276 hinge plates.

This is one method using levers

via Swooshable

The problem here is that the OP needs it to be a such a way that you can easily open up the inside, he already gave one of his own examples. But this is still good to know. You can also use bucket handles and minifig hands instead if you want.

Might be a decent solution with the standard hinge plate? Not exactly an approved Lego design but if it works....?

@bsf10 normally they would create noticeable space in between, and you would likely need to add SNOT hacks, which would create even more space in between.


text:
Can someone tell me what this part is?
I wanted to make something from the "Forbidden LEGO" book and I came across a piece, I don't know what the part number is.

The piece has 5 peg holes, one axle hole, half a gear, last of all I don't know, but in the instructions, it looks like there are 2 half peg holes. What is the part?

This is Technic Gearbox Half. It's very easy to find by searching "technic gear" on BL.

The item number is 32166, and it was available in the early 2000s (specifically from 1999-2002).

Thank you! Appreciate it.


text:
How could I make a playable LEGO piano?
I was thinking of how hard it is to make a LEGO piano.
I have already tried to use a rubber band but it did not make a good sound when I plucked at it.
My problem is that I want to make a piano but I don't know what to use for the strings. Can someone help?

And also i want to make a piano in which i can actualy play! I want a mini one that is not to big maybey a little smaller than a laptop keybord

got a hunch it might take a wrench... (youtube)

@Henrik: Questions only become untagged if they are migrated or all of their tags get deleted. You cannot create a question without tags.

@Uli That looks like an answer!

@mindstormsboi Nerd said "about the size of a laptop keyboard". Let's compare it to a 32 studs baseplate. Let's take a 2x8 plate for each key on our piano keyboard which gives us 16 keys (we'll ignore the black keys for a moment). That's 2 octaves. Is it possible to determine the position of each key over this distance of 32 studs with the EV3 distance sensor?

@Uli EV3 has a touch sensor, which is basically just a button. We could bury it under the key and when pressed down it would detect it. Another upside is that it would already provide the mechanism of popping the key back up.

@Uli Only downside is that an EV3 as well as an NXT can only hold up to 4 touch sensors, so you will need duplicate EV3s  connected together via USB if you don't want to individually turn each one on/off or something.

I've removed a number of comments from this thread. If I've deleted your comments, it might be good to review this: https://bricks.stackexchange.com/help/privileges/comment and this: https://bricks.stackexchange.com/conduct

@Uli That piano seems to be an xylophone in disguise, I don't think it's suitable. Let's... lets use mindstorms bricks instead.

Donny Chen made a LEGO piano that I believe is just large enough to play. Details are available on LEGO Ideas. You can watch him show it off in a video from Brickvention 2019. He has it motorized in that video.

From your comments, it sounds like you are interested in not simply having a piano with keys that can move, but one that actually emits proper sound. I think it will be quite difficult to do that effectively using LEGO elements (string, rubber bands, etc). The best that you can probably do to deliver sound using LEGO elements would probably be using EV3 or BOOST. This would be similar to the guitar model from the BOOST set:

It is possible to tune rubber bands, but not really at that scale

Indeed, you're kinda lucky if you have 17101 and want to make a piano. I can explain how that guitar in the photo works if you don't mind: The guitar handle is covered in colored tiles, and a studded technic beam goes around it. On the other end of the stick, there is a color/distance sensor. When you move the studded beam up and down, the distance sensor detects it and sends this info to the hub, and then the hub sends the same info again to the app to operate it, which means that your device plays the sound.

The colored tiles are not detected in any way, they are just there to help you to remember the correct positions on the stick to play the correct sounds.

Personally I would recommend EV3 instead though, BOOST quickly gets boring and with EV3 you can do many, many more things. The only downside of EV3 is that it gets tricky when you're trying to make big projects like this sometimes.

@mindstormsboi So this "guitar" really has more in common with a theremin than an actual guitar, being based on distance rather than a vibrating string...

Ohhhh... thats actauly a very smart idea @Chris H , using lego boost sensors so that they detect when i push something down

And @Chris H it is possible to tune rubber bands at a scale, you just pull it or twist it until you get the right scale

@Nerd Boost app doesn't have piano sounds I think. You can record them but I think they will come out bad, so just use EV3 instead. The rubber strings don't actually matter at this point (too hard to manipulate, you might as well set up fake ones instead), the EV3 can use buttons and when it detects you pressing them the EV3 itself can play the piano sounds.

@Nerd having tried it recently (making a functional "guitar" with a biscuit tin, not Lego) I knew it wasn't going to work well.  You're technically correct, but with (fairly thin) rubber bands and using technic to put a tuning peg 12 studs from a bridge the tension one a single band was high enough to pull bricks apart by the time I got near A440.  So you'd need a lot of reinforcing for an octave.  I also found that rubber bands don't stay in tune for long.  A little strumming and they creep/warm up enough that the pitch drops.  By "scale" I meant Lego/model proportions, not musical scale BTW

Ok thanks @ChrisH

There is this monstrosity as an example on the internet, which proves that you can work with proper metal strings. But your biggest enemy will be the huge tension everything is under. There is a reason that proper pianos have steel frames. As you only want one or two octaves, you can probably do without reinforcing the frame, but wherever the strings terminate will be a single point of failure. Apparently the harpsichord in the example uses some mutilated pieces there (though the only mention of glue is for the lid).
Also note the sound example. In any string instrument, sound is generated by the combination of the string and the resonating body of the instrument itself. In other words, it will always sound "plasticly" and there is nothing you can do about that.

...Which is why I keep telling the OP to use EV3 bricks instead. Makes life easier.

I came here to post about Henry Lim's harpsichord. Glad to see someone else did it already, so all I have to do is +1. :)


text:
Can you identify this belt/legs
Can anyone identify this pair of legs. I looked at all the chima legs and legs with the word 'lion' in them, couldn't find it.

Could you include image directly here? Images on a linked forum ails to open for me.

Why are your posts randomly being downvoted? About three of your posts have all been downvoted within the same time, very strange. I truly don't think this question is eligible for a downvote, here, I'll give you an upvote.

In that same Eurobricks thread it says:

The legs (not hips) are from the Fantasy Era Crown King.

This is the minifigure this refers to:

For completeness, the torso (but not the arms) and the hips come from this Laval minifigure from the Chima theme:


text:
Does TLG own BrickLink?
At the bottom of Bricklink.com appears the following statement:

LEGO® is a trademark of the LEGO Group of companies which does not sponsor, authorize, or endorse this site.

However, according to this press release from 2019 TLG is in the process of acquiring Bricklink.
Has this acquisition gone through? Is the Lego Group the owner of Bricklink? What does this mean for Bricklink and for independent marketplaces in general?

Yes, TLG has acquired Bricklink. There have been multiple news, FAQ's and interviews posted with regards to a future of the website. You can read some of them on Bricklink as well as LEGO webpages. You can also read an interview with LEGO representative.
The footer on BL's webpage has been left as it was prior to acquisition. Perhaps there wasn't time to change it yet.

My last BrickLink seller bill came from “LEGO BrickLink, Inc”


text:
What set does this Lego S.W.A.T van go to?
I found this in my wife's closet when I was trying to look for my dress shoes. I want to know if this is worth anything and what set this goes to.
Sorry if it's dusty. There is also a little gun that goes to it, can anyone tell me what it is from?

These are guaranteed to be from clone-brands. Lego does not make such militaristic content.

Do the studs have the word "Lego" on them? If not then that means they are from clone-brand. This also looks like a custom MOC of official Lego parts as well as clone-brand pats too, so I don't think we will be able to identify it (but it's worth a try maybe). Should I post this as an answer?

I cannot see if vehicle does have LEGO logo on studs, but it looks like either MOC or clone-brand set. Too dark and oddly shaped for a LEGO set.

@mindstormsboi It does say "LEGO" on the top, and that is sort of the reason why i asked this question cause its is hart to tell what this set comes from

@mindstormsboi i sent it again

That gun is actually pure Lego. It's a Tommy Gun.

Your truck, however, seems like a custom MOC made of random clone-brand parts due to the randomness and low quality of the build. I doubt that a clone-brand company would publish that truck as a set if it looked like that.
I am currently failing to identify this part on your truck, it doesn't match the color scheme. It proves that your truck is made of multiple clone-brand parts from multiple sets, and maybe even multiple companies! I can not find anything like it in the google image search:

The closest I can find is this part, and here's the site it's hosted on:

From the comments:
You have also said that it says Lego on the studs, but I'm just going to assume that only some of them do because of that clone-brand part I've pointed out. Lego does not and will not make SWAT content, and besides that, the truck is a rather low-quality build, so it's certainly not "from a set". Why randomly put a lattice tile on the roof like that anyway? Why do you need two sets of headlights? And why is there a 4x4 round plate on the roof when you can simply access from the back instead? It makes me conclude this is a MOC.

Comments are not the place for extended discussion. Previous comments have been moved to chat: https://chat.stackexchange.com/rooms/109594/discussion-on-answer-by-mindstormsboi-what-set-does-this-lego-s-w-a-t-van-go-to


text:
Flexible tube for threading through transparent round bricks
I'm planning on doing a replica of the Belaggio fountains. I can't find it now, but I remember somewhere I saw someone do a build where they threaded a transparent tube through some 1 x 1 round bricks to make a "bendy" transparent column. I'd like to use this technique to make some moving fountain sprays.  Does anyone know anything about such a technique, and what parts I need?

Please send a link to that build whenever you have time.

If I'm understanding you correctly, you'll need 1x1 round bricks and something bar-sized and flexible to hold them together.
Alex pointed out that the hoses typically used for this sort of thing aren't available in trans-clear. Pneumatic tubing has been produced in trans-clear, so it could be an option, but you'd need a different design, as pneumatic tubing will not fit through an open stud.
You could use fiber optic cable:

I tried stringing some transparent 1x1 round bricks on it, and I think it creates the look that you are going for:

The item provided in your URL seems to be a different part as its diameter for most of the length is significantly smaller than of the one pictured below URL.

@Alex Good point. I've fixed the link.

The technique you are referring to utilise parts in Hose, Rigid 3mm D. category. Despite the name they are somewhat flexible and can be bent (this is also how LEGO use them in some sets). Diameter of these hoses is equal to 3.18mm, which is, coincidentally, the diameter of inner hole you can find in studs. Including the 1x1 round brick you've mentioned. These hoses also work with Technic elements that have a cross holes for axles as well as some pins.
Unfortunately, none of these hoses have been produced in Tran-Clear color. So you either have seen a hose in different color or some 3rd-party hose compatible with LEGO.

Thanks Alex, if I know the size I need, I'll check with the hardware store to see if they have something that will work.


text:
Vertical motion for a power burst bar
2nd question on my Bellagio fountain design:
Suppose I have several power burst with bar end, and I want to allow the viewer to turn a knob or something and make them go up and down. How might I do that?
I suppose I could use a winch with string somehow, but I'd like to do something a little more hidden.

Can you provide a picture or sketch of what you are trying to do? What does "go up and down" mean exactly?

The first 20 seconds of this youtube video gives a litle more detail on what I'm trying to do:   https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0tCuPp6nHKM

I have an idea which was actually from JKbrickworks. Here is the MOC that uses it and here is another MOC of his that uses it.
Here it is step-by-step:

First, we have a plain old technic brick.

Now there's an axle stuck through it. That connector at the end of it is what I will use as the lever to turn. You can use whatever you want.

These connectors on the other end of the axle are supposed to lift the parts up and down, up and down, up and down. Using bigger ones will push them higher, but make sure that their ends are rounded.

And obviously, we need to add bushes. But we're still not done!

Buncha brickwork...

A 1x1 studded beam was added so that we can loosely hold a beam up above.

A non-friction pin is added.

A 1x5 beam was added, but I should actually use a 1x6 beam instead, which is fixed in the next images. What's the beam even doing here anyway? It's going to act as a guide for the axles that will sit above it.

Same process is gonna go on again. Note that I used two 1x6 beams in half because they didn't seem to exist in full. And yes, the technic beam must be laying on the lifters like that. I had to update it.

Almost done! But there's more...

More brickwork...

Now we have a technic plate with holes to stick axles through.

And of course, we stick axles through, you don't have to use plates like I did. And make sure that they are loose enough and rest on the beams. This is also the time when you can turn the lever to see if the axles pop up and down, up and down, up and down. If they don't and get stuck, try turning the lever the other way. At this point, we are almost, almost done.
The only thing left is to find a way to attach this minifigure shield to the axles. I don't have any solution for this unfortunately.
The final result should look something like this:

Update:
We've thought of using bars to connect the fountain parts, but we've discovered a few downsides and problems with that.
The first problem is that the plate with holes in my build is placed in such a way that it's not exactly aligned with the beams below, increasing the chances of any bars being placed on top slipping off.

The second problem is that the bars are noticeably thinner than the size of the holes in the plates, which leads to some pretty bumpy performance, as shown below. Your bar will tip around and possibly even slip out.

The build can be improved to reduce the chances of such things happening by doing the following:

First, let's remove that plate to make our additions.

Now we will have some off-set studs in order to align the plate.

And now we put the plate back, in a better position than before.

Now it's not as likely that the bar can slip off the beams. Don't you notice the difference?
We can reduce the chances of that happening even more if necessary by adding more plates with holes to restrict the bar from slipping, like so:

Alright. Now about the fountain spray problem.
The bar for that piece you're interested in is positioned in a rather odd way (if you're wondering why then just look at some of the thumbnails of 76108) like this.
But don't worry, I have a solution for this. Just stick the bar holder /w clip on top of the bar and attach the fountain spray part, and you'll be done! Easy!
The completed model should now look something like this.
Download link (click the button in the upper right corner)

@Aziraphale It is a simple mechanism, you can see it in action and how it's done in the two hyperlinks in my answer.

The prairie dogs are brilliant! However, links may break after a while and the fastest way to enjoy an SE post is to look at images that are provided here. Users usually appreciate this little extra effort. Plus, so far we can only guess what the OP has in mind.

@Aziraphale I've added some more details and images, originally my answer was too broad. I've discovered that the water spray part can't really be attached because of the odd way the bar is positioned for minifigs to hold it :(

@mindstormsboi Have you successfully built AND run this with real bricks? Just curious...

I don't think rubber connectors would work well here - they are quite soft and bendy. And could only work in one direction.

@Alex Yes, I know rubber connectors are bad. I just used them because I couldn't find the plastic variant (seen in the first few images). And the fact that it only turns in one direction is no big deal.

Thanks for that detailed model mindstormboi. Can you give me a part number on those black pieces you put around the first axle around step 5?

@MonteGardner I don't recommend those since they are made of rubber, I think you should use the orange connectors seen in the first few images. I don't have time to find them, but on bricklink I think they're somewhere under the "technic connector" category. Best of luck in finding a wormhole for the power shield problem.

Is there a way to replace the vertical axles with a bar-type element? (Is there an equivalent to the technic plate that will hold a bar steady while allowing it to move up and down?)

@MonteGardner I've updated my answer, please look. It will answer your questions.

Thanks for all the help folks

I've created an initial prototype.  I found the "axle with stud 1 x 5" pieces allow me to cross from an axle to a bar type piece such as a fountain.


text:
Repairing a 12V switch motor
My son caused me to dig up my old 12V LEGO trains. Surprisingly they mostly work, except for one part - Electric, Train 12V Remote Control Switch Motor 4 x 8 x 1 2/3:

This is the motor that drives the switches and railway crossings. I have 2 broken ones (and 2 working ones). One of them vibrates and buzzes a little but does not flip.  The other one is completely dead and the ohmmeter gives a broken connection.
Does anyone have anything that might me help fix them? Photos about how to open them, etc...

I doubt getting in there will be very easy, but I'd start on the vibrating one.  My 4.5V Technic motors  of similar vintage spin over but are very easily stalled.  I suspect the bearings need at least a good clean, possibly light grease but it depends on the details when you get inside

Just repaired one...
https://youtu.be/XGyY8KtDnfA
Pry it open by using a precision knife on the lip of the bottom, using care to not damage the case:

Inside you'll find a coil of copper wire. Check that the ends of the wire are properly soldered to the terminals, and re-solder if needed.


text:
What does this white lego piece go to?
I was building a lego van and saw this on one of my pieces. What does it go to or what set does it come from?

This is Tile 1 x 2 with Groove with 'FOLLOW ME PACE CAR' Pattern from set 8121.

Please stop soliciting for accepted answer votes.

@PhilB. Yeah, I should stop, but I'm just hungry for rep... and accepting correct answers is a necessary feature at SE. Hopefully I won't have to be asked again.


text:
Which lego set or theme are the following pieces part of?
I bought these second hand so don't even know if they belong together. The main colors are orange and white.
Definitely a piece has big orange wheels. Similar to the buggy in the Neptune carrier from the Atlantis theme but in orange.
I have also a minifigure in a grey and white helmet. He is sitting in a white orange flying base.
And I've got a part of a set where a green weird figure is captured on a kind of white stretcher.
Who can help me identify this set?


text:
Which minifigure is this? Angry face with a moustache and a green playing card shirt?

Who knows what series/set this minifigure belongs to?

That minifigure looks like this one but without the tophat.
The head, however, is likely from this minifig. As you can see on that page both minifigs appear in 6 sets.

Thanks it does look like this one!

@Lotte based on some of your parts you've shown us it seems like you have a pretty good vintage collection since they come from before 2010.

yeah I recently bought a bulk at a second hand store. So it's a surprise what's in there. I found already a complete set 194 from 1976, but also newer sets from the atlantis series.

@Lotte you talking about this set? I'm jealous, look out for others! If you see any corny duplo-sized bricks in the collections then it likely means thet they're from fabuland series.

Yes that´s the one. It even had the original instructions with it. Let me google fabuland, no clue what that is, before I throw away something, which I shouldn´t...

Fabulaland, I recognise 3631 which I had as a kid. Need to ask my parents where all the lego is stored when I'm back home :)

This minifigure is a mixture of several other minifigures.
Torso Western Bandit Card Suit Vest and Gold Fob Pattern / Green Arms / Black Hands

has been used for just one minifigure called Bandit 3. Legs are matching yours so these two most likely come from the same minifigure, which appeared in 5 sets.

However your example is missing top hat and is using different face - Minifigure, Head Moustache Thick Angry and Long Hair and Stubble Pattern - Blocked Open Stud. It appeared in 13 sets and could be part of any of these 5 minifigures.

Yes, you're right, the head is from multiple other minifigs, that's what I should've said instead of saying that it comes from only one other minifig. Other than that, your answer is quite similar to mine. But it doesn't really matter.

Multiple answers to a question are a normal part of how StackExchange works.  Even the best answers might miss some nuance.


text:
What dark green LEGO car is this?

Who knows what set this dark green LEGO one piece car unit is from?

It's from MCDR4-1 Circuit Star, a McDonald's promotional set from 2009:
You can clearly see the wavy white and yellow lines on the side stickers.

I was soo close! I was just about to answer but you beat me to it!

Thanks! Don't worry I have more mystery pieces to come! :)


text:
Who is this minifigure: black trousers, blue shirt with id and rescue item, sunglasses

Who is this minifigure: black trousers, blue shirt with id and rescue item, sunglasses?
What set can it be from?

Looks like this guy but without the hat.

https://www.bricklink.com/catalogList.asp?catType=S&catString=67.626.610

I found it, it´s indeed a coast guard.


text:
What sets are these vintage figures and wheels from?

Where do these belong to? (their head/body/hair/hat might be mixed up).

Here are the parts you're looking for:
wheel
wheel
2x4 wheel
wheel base 2x4 and so on
arm holder
hand
arm part
also arm part
female hair
head with freckles
cap
Based on the collected links, this might be one of the sets you own. It is too challenging for me to identify any others, sorry for the inconvenience: https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?S=200-1#T=S&O={%22iconly%22:0}

I can't combine them and identify a particular set out of hte heads and hat combinations I have unfortunately.

@Lotte I'll give it a shot, I 'll use the links I have and try to see if they can be smashed together to form complete sets. It might not be possible however since we don't see your other parts, but let's not go too far with this vintage-identification business.

@Lotte I could only find one possible set, at least I tried.

The red cap is fairly unusual. The head with the freckles as well...
Based on that I would say the Universal Building set 50-1 on BrickLink
The rightmost wheels are in that set too. The other wheels are so common that there are dozens of sets with them.


text:
What set(s) do these pieces belong to?

The orange wheels are very similar to the red buggy from the Neptune carrier.

Please unaccept my answer, it is incorrect.

Most of this looks like it's part of the Mars Mission range - however, none of those sets contain the 2 flames, and the Minifig has both wrong colour torso (grey, instead of white), and the wrong type of helmet (he has Headgear Helmet Space instead of a Motorcyle Helment)
As for which Mars Mission set you have there, from curved Windscreen, the Technic bars that the wheels are attached, the device the Alien is strapped into, and the arm on the drill, I believe that this is ETX Alien Strike

You can see the Alien in the holding contraption at the back of the mini rover, the wheels beneath it, the drill-arm in the centre, and the cockpit & windshield at the front.  It looks like you might actually have most of the rover in your photo!

The set you are looking to identify is part of Mars Mission theme from 2008. The reason for that - sets from this theme are the only ones to use the wheels you describe in Orange color. However, it is not clear which size you got as there are several: Small, Large and Giant. Most of these sets (but not all) include the other pieces you've mentioned.
This is the best I could get you without pictures. This is true if the set you got is not a mix of parts from more than one set or mixture of sets.

Thanks it was indeed the ETX Alien Strike as I also have the black space ship.


text:
Which mini figure is this?

I would like to know which mini figure this is?

@mindstormsboi This question is perfectly valid and acceptable in our community, as can be seen by the fact that it is on-topic and has garnered a number of upvotes. I do not find Lotte's rate of posting to be excessive. Furthermore, your comment is rude and does not reflect the values of this community. Please remember to be kind: https://bricks.stackexchange.com/conduct

It is Hoth Rebel Trooper (Orange Chin Dimple)

With missing white backpack and goggles.


text:
Why does BrickLink append a -1 to so many set numbers?
I've been perusing BrickLink for a while, and I noticed that essentially all sets are listed with a "-1" after the LEGO set number. For example, Set 41164, Enchanted Treehouse is listed on BrickLink as 41164-1.
What's the purpose of the "-1", and more specifically, what would a "-2" or even "-3" set number represent?

Does it represent a version number (e.g. a revised or post-recall version of the set would be numbered 41164-2)?
Is this a country code?
Is it just a site-specific affectation?
Is it currently unused, but reserved for future use?

TLG hasn't always been particularly careful about their set numbering, so the community has taken to adding -1 to the end of the set number to handle cases where there may be duplicate set numbers used by TLG. For example, here's what we refer to as 8858-1:

And 8858-2:

As others have pointed out, this also helps to track minor adjustments to sets (re-releases, box differences, inventory adjustments, etc). Bricklink maintains a list of sets that are similar and have the same official set number but which are assigned unique suffixes for various reasons.

Mind blown that the later one was assigned -1 and the earlier one was assigned -2.

That Engines Expert Builder Set looks really nice for such a limited number of pieces. I wish more modern sets would replicate mechanical engineering solutions like that with simple building blocks, instead of applying excessive attention to visual detail with weirdly shaped custom parts that are almost un-reusable in any other configuration.

@Will Well, the weird parts mean people will buy more... it's the sad ugly truth.

@Will Mechanical engineering solutions like that with simple building blocks? In this case I highly recommend Yoshihito Isogawa's books and youtube channels. Definitely check them out if you don't know them already...

Why is 8858-2 used for the older set?  Is it just that 8858-1 was added to some database first?  Personally I think it would be more sensible to omit the -1 until there's a numbering collision, or distinguish them by release release (e.g. "8858 (1980)" and "8858 (1994)").

As jncraton pointed out some numbers have been reused by different sets, however there are other cases too.
A good example is 10242 MINI Cooper. During production of this set TLG has decided to change the box from original squarish size, which is designated as 10242-1 on Bricklink

to rectangular version of the box, so Bricklink used 10242-2 to mark this change.

Same thing occurred for the box of 31313, but I don't think that BL knows that the box of 31313 changed, which is why you only see the original box design. I'll submit an inventory addition request.

@mindstormsboi That's interesting. I have only heard of slight design change of outer sleeve. How did the change of dimensions you've mentioned affected the design of the inner sleeve? These must be different too then?

Oh wait, I meant sleeve, you're right. BL doesn't seem to know about it though.

In the 1980s, there was a major set adjustment to the Lego space sets , in North America.
I know, because I have both sets.
One is noted as -1 and the other -2, which actually has been helpful in sorting sets.
It is arbitrary, and I don't see it as the first or second time the same part number used.
But untill Lego group makes an adjustment, or creates an online catloge of all sets, I don't see brick links actions as objectionable.

Which sets are these? Also, I didn't say anything about objecting to it.


text:
Which set is this piece from?

Which set is this piece from? It looks like a space ship or something.

The ship looks like a (possibly) slightly altered build of the alien spaceship from ETX Alien Strike.

thx. yes hat fits with my other pieces as well (in orange as posted earlier)


text:
What is inside the Technic Powered Up XL motor?
What components are inside the new Technic Powered Up XL motor? Is it the same as the PF XL motor, except with a different connector?

I was curious about this, and TLG was willing to provide me with one of these motors, so I opened it up. I was able to get the outer shell off by cutting down the 4 tabs on the outside. This motor does not appear to be meant to be opened and put back together. These tabs hold it together very firmly and I wasn't able to move them out of the way without damaging them. The motor does not stay together properly without them.

The light bluish gray front can also be removed from the motor to reveal the internals.

We can see that it uses a double set of planetary gears that are very similar to the PF XL motor.

We can see an additional chip under the drive axle that is not present in PF motors. I believe that this is a rotary encoder to allow the motor to rotate in fixed increments.

There is a black ring around the red drive axle that is magnetic.

For comparison, here is an image from another teardown of the PF XL motor:

We can see that the internal motor and gearing is roughly the same, but the PF version does not include the rotary encoder.

The horror, the horror!

In my experience, the PUP motor spins at ~2x the speed and ~1/2 the torque, compared to the PF motors (a pretty big improvement IMO).

@AlexanderO'Mara Not sure how this could be an improvement. PU XL and L motors have pretty much the same specs now (apart from size), unlike with PF. What you were looking for in PF series is L motor. Higher torque and slower rpm has its own applications.

Do you happen to have a picture of black ring you've mentioned? Does PU version use same electrical motor as PF one?

@Alex I've added a photo of the output axle with the black ring that I mentioned. The internal motors appear the same to me, but I don't have a PF XL to compare against.

@Alex The PF XL motor was more powerful the PF L motor, when geared to similar speeds, so I tend to use it more than the L motor. I rarely used the XL without some gearing up though, which is why I consider the faster speed of the PUP version an improvement.


text:
How to connect fire to Lord Business' Coffee Mugs?
So, we have Lord Business' Evil Lair (70809-1), and we also have some two-tone flames from another set.
How can the flames be attached to Lord Biz' coffee mugs (as seen in The LEGO Movie)?

 +
The flame shaft can be connected to plenty of parts, such as a "Round 1 x 1 with Open Stud".
However...the mug part has an unusual inner diameter that studs don't fit into. So I'm wondering how this was constructed for the film - or if the animators didn't actually make a construction but just placed the flames for the shot, is there some way they can be connected to at least approximate the way they appear in the film?
(I mean, without having to resort to... the Kragle!)

Stop messing with my stuff!

They might have cheated in the movie, but an old 8 toothed gear fits snugly in the hole.


text:
EV3 Gyro sensor is not working
I started using the EV3 Gyro for the first time in a few months, and it's not working. When I rotate the robot the output shown in the EV3-G port view stays at zero. In the rare case it registers some input, it will show for a split second and immediately reset to zero. In the on-brick port view, and when output from the block, it shows as "----". Switching ports doesn't change anything.

Did you also try a different cable in addition to different ports?

Actually I didnt, I will try it

It works after swapping cables. Thanks!

If other sensors work on the EV3, the EV3 is OK. If swapping cables does not help, then the sensor is probably defective. If you contact LEGO customer service, they will probably replace it if it is defective.

And make sure you use ports 1-4 and turn the gyro in every direction possible and see if it detects it.


text:
Is this part of a set?

Are those pieces part of a set?
Or a random build of something?

The 'Red Slope, Curved 4 x 2 with White and Yellow Flames Pattern Model' part (right side of the picture, on the roof) comes in 2 variants: Left and Right.  However, both of these parts only exist in the same 1 set, 9441: Kai's Blade Cycle

Similarly, the 'Tail Shuttle with Lightning Pattern' (left side of the picture - also comes in Left and Right variants) come from 9442: Jay's Storm Fighter

(This also appears to be where those 2 large blue plates are from)
As such, this model must be a Maker's Own Creation (MOC), and not an official LEGO set.  So, yes, a 'random build of something'
Both of the sets listed are from the LEGO Ninjago: Rise of the Snakes series


text:
Is it possible to non-destructively open the SPIKE Prime smart hub?
I'm referring to this part from SPIKE Prime:

Note that this is the same hub that will be used in Mindstorms Inventor.
There are four Torx screws on the back side that can be accessed by removing the battery. I have removed these:

Even with these screws removed, the top is still tightly secured. I can force a spludger in under the ports on either side, but prying seems to only bend the top and not release it any way.
I've tried prying in the cracks at the corners, but there was no give.
Does anyone know of a way to open this part while minimizing permanent damage?

No, but the damage can be limited and is not externally visible.
I don't know the technical name, but each of the 4 corners are held in place with these fasteners:

Using a tool of the same diameter (2mm), they can be pressed out by applying force to the end of the fastener at the point shown below:

This does damage the plastic slightly where it contacts the fastener, but if it is only done a few times the fasteners should still hold securely when reassembled.

Thanks for this. Do you know how hard this is generally to push out? I've pushed on this as hard as I can with a suitable tool, and I haven't been able to get it to budge.

Maybe need a hammer?

Indeed. I was able to dislodge these pins using a hammer and a small nail. Thanks!