text:
EV3 screen stuck at starting after inserting MicroSD card
I followed the official guide to download microPython and flash it onto an empty MicroSD card (SanDisk Extreme Pro 32GB), but the EV3 screen is now stuck at "Starting" after I insert the MicroSD card. The EV3 works fine without a MicroSD card.

Hi Kevin and welcome to Bricks.SE! Can you please provide a link to this official guide you mentioned? That way it would be easier to talk about what steps were already completed, which might contribute to the problem and what should you do next.

@zovits Sure :) https://education.lego.com/en-au/support/mindstorms-ev3/python-for-ev3

So from your question I gather that you have an empty SD card within the spec (32GB, Class A1), downloaded the EV3 MicroPython micro SD card image from the linked site, flashed it using Etcher on Win10 or Mac, and now, after inserting it into the EV3 in the correct orientation, the brick does not boot. Is all of that correct?

@zovits Yes, and the brick keep sticking at Starting.

Thanks for the clarification, I have edited the provided information into the question, so that others with an EV3 would have an easier time answering it.

This could be due to a bad SD card or due to bad flashing software. For example, there was a broken version of the Etcher software in early 2019 that caused the same symptoms [1].

Thank you and problem solved. Same reason as it was stated in Github.

I want to add that I encountered the same problem today with Etcher version 1.18.11. I tried to flash the image on my SD card 4 times with this version. Each time Etcher validation failed, and when I tried the SD card in my EV3 the screen stuck at "Starting".
Then I installed Etcher version 1.5.26 and flashed again: validation was successfull this time, and the EV3 booted correctly with the SD card.
So the solution of using version 1.5.26 (https://github.com/balena-io/etcher/releases/tag/v1.5.26) is still valid.

Indeed, etcher seems to have broken again for ev3dev images sometime before June 2023. https://github.com/balena-io/etcher/issues/4079

Another alternative workaround is to extract the .img file from the .zip file and flash the .img file instead.


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Opposite brick of Brick, Modified 1 x 2 with Studs on 1 Side
I was wondering if there was an opposite brick to this one:

Basically, I am looking for a 1 x 2 brick with two holes on the side where I could join the brick mentioned above.

Hello and welcome Benoit. Can you tell me what you are trying to achieve with this? Since the combination of this brick and “the opposite brick” basically creates a 2x2 brick, why are you looking for a more complex solution?

Your best chances are with Technic, Brick 1 x 2 with Holes. Although LEGO considers such connection illegal depending on application (see slides 2, 11 and 12 of this presentation by Jamie Berard). However it works without major issues.

I can't care less if it's considered illegal :-). Thank you very much!

source: Stack Exchange

license: Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/

sort: votes


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LEGO sticky after painting?
Why are my LEGO still sticky after I paint them?  I use primer beforehand but the acrylic paint is still tacky hours after they're painted.  Thanks!

I suspect that you used an acrylic paint with a solvent that softens ABS plastic.
Your bricks may take quite some time to harden.
It's possible they never will.

I sanded the brick and used primer but it's still sticky even though it's been drying for 3 hours so not sure what I'm doing wrong?

Sticky paint is usually caused by painting over a coat that wasn't fully dry. If you did not wait several hours after applying primer, that would be the cause.

I sanded the brick and used primer but it's still sticky even though it's been drying for 3 hours so not sure what I'm doing wrong?

all_licenses: Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/


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How to disassemble the propulsion wheels of the LEGO/DUPLO train engine base part# 28743 drivetrain?
I have a push and go motor, also known as Hub No5 model also known as engine base part #28743
The issue I have is that the train can not climb the bridge anymore, unless using the locomotive alone and also stops in curves. After looking carefully I noticed that one of the wheels was slipping.
When I take it in my hand upside down, make the front wheels rotate (the one with the sensors), the propulsion wheels starts rotating. At that moment, if I try to slow down one of them with my finger, I feel it generate torque. For the other one, it just stops easily and I feel the wheel axis continuing to rotate. And I feel some steps.
With the help of the thread How to disassemble LEGO train engine base part #28743 I managed to disassemble nearly everything.
Now, I would like to remove the wheel from it's axis to see what is "broken" inside, and hopefully with the help of a 3D printer, rebuild the broken part.
Any idea how to unmount that ? Is it simple "press fit" (I don't know the exact english name for that).
EDIT
I have to precise two things.

The batteries are fully charged so it's not an issue
I have two locomotive #28743 and one of them has an issue. I really feel something broken in the "wheel", the wheel is loose from the gear and can rotate nearly freely. So it's not some kind of a kid protection you really feel something is broken inside and that's why I wanted to know how to disassemble the wheel.

Cannot really help you with disassembly. However, to reach you final goal - get a working train base - you may just get in touch with LEGO Customer Service to replace the broken item. They are pretty good at dealing with such issues.

My back wheels do the same thing.  There is no metal axle that connects both back wheels like the axle design does for the front wheels, but I'm sure LEGO designed it that way.
So, imagine the train's motor being in an "ON" state just a rolling.  Now enters a kid, just being a kid.  Grabs the thing, and starts a rolling in whichever direction kiddie wants to roll.  Not a caring that the motor is doing it's own thing too. How does LEGO protect the device from the free rolling madness of a child?
So, I think this slippage is a built in feature to kid proof protect the motor from being over torqued. Some type of reverse rocket booster dampening system.   Analogous maybe to a circuit breaker which, is an automatic device for stopping the flow of current in an electric circuit as a safety measure.
Possible solutions:
(01) Battery check.
You said it no longer can pull extra weight, and that it stalls even on flat normal gravity leveled curves? Huh? So, before we go too deep, I would recommend first replacing the batteries with new ones. Then, retest it.
(02) Balancing our time vs. the money justification check.
Tearing down the housing to get inner access to remove excess hair and debris from this unit is fairly easy, and just requires buying a T9 Star Torque from the local hardware store and maybe 15 mins of our time.
Even though this thing is LEGO engineered like a tank, we can still imagining extensive damage, let's say a smoosh over by car, where we'd need to replace the circuit board, motor, or destroyed plastic gears.
Then, maybe it might be time to do a price check and consider purchasing a new/used unit versus the time to invest and produce a 3D printed replacement.
(03) Axle wheel hub tear down (setup only).
I'm not taking mine apart, becasue I haven't justified a reason that works out for me, but this is my observational approach if anyone else wants to venture further into the unknown.
So, let's look at the wheel design and note the similarities/differences between both wheel hubs.

Break down wheel hub anatomy consists of at least three pieces.

Inside hub piece.
In between trans-clear rubber tire tread.
Outside hub piece.
Unknown non-visible pieces. Possible notched out axle bar.

The inside hub pieces and in between trans-clear tire tread all look to be the same molds, where the outside hub pieces differ in aesthetic design, but function in the same way when interlocking with the inside hub piece.
Here's where things get dicey.  There seems to be six interlocking tabs that need to be simultaneously unhitched to separate the pieces without permanent damage.  Unless you happen to be a six clawed mutant named Wolverine, this will be a challenge.

Six interlocking tabs release damage free setup and approach:

Hot glue one end to work desk for stability.
Insert six flat head precision screwdrivers.
Wiggle until it's free.

Six interlocking tabs release egg breaking, omelette making approach:
Goal: 3D print a replacement, so permanent damage doesn't matter.

Using a Dremel rotary tool, carefully drill out 4 of the 6 interlocking tabs ONLY.  Don't go deep. We can 3D print plastic, but not the clear-trans rubber treading.
Insert two flat head precision screwdrivers to disengage the locking function of the 2 remaining tabs.
Using a digital caliper measure out the dimensions of the working 2 remaining tabs.
3D print replacement piece.
Consider using some Loc-Tite glue adhesive when reassembling the
wheel hubs.

I have done an EDIT. Beside thanking you for the details answer I would like to precise a few things. First of all I totally agree with you for the time vs price. But in my case my son has two locomotives and with the coronavirus and curfew it was a game disassembling, asking question on stack exchange, waiting and answer and eventually building something with a 3D printer. Moreover here I cannot buy the part #28743 alone. And I would prefer to keep the 50 bucks of the duplo train box to buy the "real" lego train when my kid grow up.

Also, as I said in the edit, when I compare the two locomotive, I really feel something broken and the axle of the gear rotating independently from the wheel, even in simple curves with nearly no low. We did slow motion vids with my son trying to figure out the issue.
So beside all that game thing making time past quick in those hard times needing to stay home, I would like to thank you for the detailed answer as well as you "funny" way of describing things ... no, nobody in my family has Wolverine like hands.

Hey, Friend, I've read your edits, and I believe you on the breakage  . Don't know where you are in the world, but for me a used set runs $16 bucks, where as the part itself alone is more expensive.  Go figure...  My job is part of the supply chain, so there's no forced play time for me. So, unless I get the "Captain Trips"...

...but, I am still curious on how to unhitch the six locks without destroying the thing. (I kinda like mine...) If I had two like you, and one train was already broken, plus the equipment/time to replicate a replacement, I definitely would be doing some exploratory dentistry with the Dremel. LOL, Wolverine like "hands"? Claws, Bub! ;)

I am living in Switzerland...
https://www.galaxus.ch/fr/s5/product/lego-duplo-steam-railway-10874-lego-duplo-8347054?gclid=CjwKCAjw3-bzBRBhEiwAgnnLCusljt9QghPOYHK0djEGW27aReJfZ6sUruXietFQcn44Uys9t5lP0BoCQIgQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
I will edit this thread if I successfully disassemble those wheels

I'm in the United States. That price is bonkers!  Yup, that money could be put toward something more prudent.  Well, anyway, if you're able to pull off some kind of breakdown, any kind of breakdown, please feel free to share your knowledge with all of us here.  See ya ✌

I posted a follow up as an answer with picture of the wheel disassembled from the gear axle

Regarding to wheel split and interlocking tabs:
There is simpier way to do it, hopefully without permanent damage to the wheel.
Requires: 2+ flat precision screwdrivers.
Howto:

Push screwdriver in between the rubber part and top (side) part of the wheel
Push another screwdriver to the closest hole with tab - push from the centre to the edge
Optionally - repeat 2 with another screwdriver in a hole close by
Repeat 1 to 3 in another segment of the weel.

Part 5135cx1 specific: Rember the center is sitting tight on axle. You need to leverage opposite sides equaly.

FOLLOW UP POSTED AS AN ANSWER
So, I managed to disassemble the wheel axle from the gear axle, which show what I was expecting, a broken piece in the freewheel.
As my question is on how to disassemble the wheel itself @Rin Rio-Oki answer is the correct one.
A picture is worth a thousand words so put picture ...
The wheel axle is simply force in the gear axle, so simply by pulling firmly but carefully disassemble both.
The small teeth in the wheel axle interact with the 4 white teeth of the gear axle to create a freewheel, and that's one of those that is broken in my case and that explain the slipping.
Note that I don't know what could have caused that teeth to get broken.
COMMENT
I solved the problem by drilling a small hole and putting a piece of copper from an electric wire (without the insulation, only the copper) and twisting it at both ends. However the solution of @Greg Dubicki is cleaner.
It would be interesting to see if we can redo the part on a 3D printer.
Also note that there was a discount price on Duplo Locomotive a few weeks after the issue, so I also bought a new one ....

so did you manage to get a spare part printed? do you happen to still have an STL which you might be able to share?

This is more of a follow up to the HpTerm's "FOLLOW UP POSTED AS AN ANSWER":
Firstly I did manage to disassemble the wheels pretty easily. Similarly to Murder.exe's answer I did push the screwdriver in between the rubber part and top (side) part of the wheel. However I did not use a 2nd screwdriver - I just slowly pushed the external part of the wheel away from the internal with the 1st screwdriver. I didn't make any photos as I had to quickly put my kid to sleep though. :P I will add them here on another day.
Secondly in one of the wheels an EXACTLY the same breakage happened as for HpTerm. What I did to fix it is the following:

I glued the broken part back into its original place with an instant glue.

I used a small rubber band to protect the part from breaking again (I hope) by putting it around broken part like this:

I had this rubber band from a new set of tools that I just opened - the tweezers there were blocked from opening with such a thing.
My original plan was to put this band AROUND the whole light plastic part but it wasn't big enough.. However when I put the axle through the band it did spread and looked pretty solid.
So far we have just made a 3-minute test but for now the results are great - the train is not slipping at all anymore. \O/
I will keep you posted how it hold up after A LOT of playing that will happen soon over Christmas. :)

+1 for the follow up. On my side I solved the problem by drilling a small hole and putting a piece of copper from an electric wire (without the insulation, only the copper) and twisting it at both ends. However your solution is cleaner. It would be interesting to see if we can redo the part on a 3D printer.

Fixed sliding wheels by add rubber on and tie it few times. I hope engine will not burn too fast.

The issue is indeed with insufficient friction. I have managed to fix it. I used the same rubber band idea. As I did not have a rubber band at hand I used a random piece of thin-ish rubber like material and glued it around cogwheel. Works like a charm - no more slipping (for now).
Disassembling rear wheel is very simple. I just pried open one side with a knife (not cutting, just getting a thin thing in to pry it open). Then I put a small screwdriver there to hold it open and worked the other side of wheel the same way until it popped open.


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What do these numbers on the top of these mini linear actuators denote?
I'm building 42082 and there are 4 of these but 3 unique numbers in the tops.

20X8 on two
29X8 on one
35X8 on another

I'm guessing they are serial numbers from machines that made them but I wondered if someone had a better idea.

First two digits represent week of production followed by a year.
20X8 - 20th week of 2018.
These codes used for quality control. LEGO Customer Service may ask you to provide this number if there were an issue with a set or particular part.
Similar code exist on box seals too.

Why “X8” instead of “18”? What do other years/decades use?

This is something unknown, probably has some company internal meaning. For example you can find "S" on boxes, "K" on some other parts. I have an old motor base from set of year 2009. It has "J8" for 2008 production year.

If they're using multiple letter codes/year they presumably refer to different production lines, or production runs.


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6x6x6 cube with smooth plates on bottom?
Adult, returning to Legoland and the world of LEGO.
I'm interested in building a static 6x6x6 cube that is smooth on all six sides. I can see how to get the top smooth, using an appropriate build up with blocks and plates, and capped with smooth tiles.
The sides are easy, of course, just being the sides of blocks and other pieces.
But what about the bottom? What works for reversing the studs, so that smooth tiles can be used for the final finish on the bottom?
I would like the final build to be rock solid, exactly 6x6x6 -- no movement like a rubik's cube needed at all.
Just interested in best techniques for a smooth bottom, before I order parts for my bigger build. Want to limit pieces to standard blocks, plates, and smooth tiles.
Suggestions, threads to review, links to solutions?
PS: Sorry I couldn't post tags like: "6x6x6 cube tiles smooth"; suggestions welcome.

While there could be various approaches building studless the easiest one would be with Tile, Modified 2 x 2 Inverted. These modified tiles have studs on one side, which fit under bricks and plates, and smooth surface on the other side.

Here is a prototype which features equal 6-stud (or 30 modules) long sides. Parts can be changed upon availability, but it gives the idea how high you need to go to reach 6-stud height. Red parts are modified tiles mentioned above.

Excellent. Simple. 2x2 modified, inverted - who knew? Thanks.

You could also use five normal-height (blue/yellow) layers, and one flat (cyan) layer; the top smooth layer (green) and bottom smooth layer (red) are also 1/3 height, so 1/3 * 3 = 1 (for certain values of 1/3); rather than building up each smooth layer with two flat layers.

In case with 5 layers of bricks either top or bottom layer must be made entirely of bricks (as example 6 pcs. of 1x6 bricks), not just the edge, to have a place to attach the tiles to.

Is that example 6 cubed? Because it looks like it's only 5 high. Red-blue-blue, yellow, yellow, yellow, blue-blue-green.

Good observation. Well, obvious mistake was made in my previous comment. Picture has 3 layers of bricks and the extra layer I meant has to be 4th, not 5th.

I suspect "leaving out" a layer of bricks here makes something closer to an actual cube since the bricks are taller than they are wide.

@chicks Could you elaborate please? I cannot really understand your idea of the example in the answer above not being actual cube.

Sure.  From https://bricks.stackexchange.com/a/11131/6174 we know that bricks are 7.9mm wide and 9.6mm high.  So 6 bricks wide is 47.4mm.  And 6 bricks high is 57.6mm while 5 bricks high is 48mm, much closer to the 47.4mm width.  And so it is much more cube-like than the question was asking for.  I'm guessing you intuited this and left out the layer since it looked or felt more correct.  Even I'm amazed the math worked out so well for my intuition.

Calculation did only account for individual bricks and not the assembly. There's tiny little space exist between two bricks placed side by side. Bricks are also tiny little bit smaller to allow this gap to exist, so you can place and take them apart. Actually, the same question you've linked has top answer which explains that there is such a thing as LEGO Unit, where 1 Lego Unit is 1.6mm, which is used for getting math right and accounts for that gap. 1x1 Brick will be 5x5x6 ratio/unit/module. So 6-studs are 30 units, 5 bricks are also 30 units.

As mentioned in another answer, there are dedicated pieces for this now.
But... 6x6x6 cube is plenty big enough to have a stud-reversing construction inside, then the bottom can be a simple 6x6 plate with regular smooth tiles.
For example put some of these inside the cube:

Excellent. Clever. Hidden design, love it. Thanks.

Your question sparked an idea of making a completely symmetrical 6x6x6 cube with the same tile on each face.
This is what I came up with:

The LDCad file is here.
Parts list:
6x-10202, 8x-26604, 8x-30414, 2x-3958
I used only parts available in LDCad version 1.6b

As far as I know LDCad installation does not include LDraw parts. LDraw parts library is an independent product and is not tied to any of LDCad versions.

I am new with the tools so thanks for letting me know that LDCad uses a common parts library. With other tools I have used it was important to know the version used to create the assembly.

Can you please add a picture that shows the red and yellow pieces? Thank you!

I had a whole bunch of pieces that were flat, 2x2 with studs on both sides.  They were not actually LEGOs but some knock-off brand - I want to say Tyco?  Not sure, it's been a while, but it was 100% compatible.  I used them for this sort of thing all the time.  It annoyed me that there weren't any official LEGO pieces that served this purpose at the time, but the off-brand ones worked well enough.

You're right.  I remember TYCO having these as a kid.  I know for a fact that knock-off maker Ausini has these 2 x 2 plates with inverted studs.  it's in their instructions here

Now that I think about it, this set also had the reverse - square 2x2 pieces with holes on both sides so that you could insert two pieces with stubs facing each other.  basically of the female-female adapters if the double-stud piece was male-male.  Not really relevant to this question, but another notable lack in the base LEGO pieces at the time.  (Not sure if they've added them since?)


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Please help to identify the LEGO Set
Please help to identify the LEGO Plastic Bags # (Pack 1-610S7, Pack 2-210S7) I can't even scan the code, it is too small from the camera. These are the packs left over from my son and the boxes were thrown out.   Thank you]1

These parts belong to 42060 set.

Identified by unique combination of Technic, Liftarm 1 x 3 Thick with Black '40 1977 - 2017' and 24 Tooth Gear Pattern

and Technic, Panel Fairing # 2 Small Smooth Short, Side B in Orange


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Some of these Blues are not like the other Blues
I'm sorting through used Lego bricks and found that in some stacks of blue bricks there are slightly different shades.  I can't find a common shade of blue that matches and I'm not certain that it's not just fading or discoloration due to time and exposure.  However there seem to be only 2-3 distinct shades which makes me think they're actually different colors.
Can anyone help identify what color they might not be if not Blue?
For comparison, I've put some of these blue bricks next to my color board of common blueish colors: from left to right Bright Light Blue, Sand Blue, Medium Blue, Medium Azure, Dark Azure, Blue, and Dark Blue

Note the one with the arrow seems very similar to the one 2 to the right of it and is duller & darker than the reference Blue piece, though not as dark as Dark Blue.

It looks like these darker are the same bricks in Blue that have simply "yellowed" over time, which changes the shade of the color. Another answer explains the reason behind this process.

Once I can purchase hydrogen peroxide again I'll try using that but for a much shorter time than I do for whites. I was/is reluctant to retrobrite non-white pieces but for those I don't feel comfortable selling them as blue

As Alex mentioned, part of the variance can be attributed to yellowing, especially the ones pointed at with the arrow. For the remainder, I think you are looking at variations in color introduced in the production process ... see this question for more details: LEGO color discrepancies and tint variations


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2x2x2 cube with smooth plate on bottom?
I have a follow-up to my previous question about building a 6x6x6 smooth-sided cube.
Do these three pieces create a 2x2x2 cube, smooth on top and bottom, and all four sides, with the height exactly the same as the width and the length?

2x2 tile (3068a)
2x2 block (3003)
2x2 modified, inverted (11203)

For completeness, can someone provide a sketch?
AFOL, returning to the LEGO universe. Thanks.

Yes. 1x1 Brick dimensions are 5x5x6 units. 1x1 Plate/Tile dimensions are 5x5x2 units. Since we have the top surface measured 2x2 studs, this brings us to top with 10x10 units in size. From here we need to construct a side of 10 units too. Taking out top and bottom tiles (10-2-2) we are left with 6 units, which is exactly a height of a brick.
Here's an example:


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Is this online shop legit?
I am wondering if this site is legit or no because I want to buy this LEGO set.
Here is the screenshot:

You can see the URL in the image.

That's a scam. I was going to write reasons why it is so, but there are so much red flags all over this website, I don't know where to begin.. Even Chinese copy cost more.

thanks a lot you saved me 50 euro

Just look at the "reviews". Half of them aren't even about this set. Parts of the web-page are rip-offs of the official Lego site or link through to the original Lego sources. This has all the hallmarks of a rip-off site and the prices are just too good to be true.


text:
What kind of LEGO are these?
Can somebody tell me what are these round heads and these strange cars?  I bought these from a bazaar. The heads are round. There weren't any bodies, just heads. The cars are strange. Looks like from ninja. They look like they won't be LEGO.

These parts were used in large figures as a part of LEGO Knights Kingdom II sets.
"Strange cars" are actually torso/body piece used for these figures.
As an example Large Figure Torso KK with Santis Pattern - Series 1

Thank you very much, I am feeling know stupid

@SauleUrbo Don't feel stupid, nobody is expected to know about all the obscure themes LEGO has branched out across it's decades-long history. And I personally find your observation that the body pieces look like fancy Ninjago cars exemplarily creative :)

I agreed with the probably-not-LEGO idea enough that I added the clone-brands tag to this question.  I've since removed it since Alex has shown we both jumped to the wrong conclusion.  Good times.

There are also some Bionicle masks among the parts, e.g.
Bionicle Mask Kakama Nuva
and a Bionicle Shoulder Armor

Thank you for formatting, @Syberion!


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What set did this Technic container come from?
This box has a lot of Technic LEGO pieces but I don't know which set this is from. The box is small, violet.

That's Container, Throwbot / Slizer 'Flying' Case Lid
This item in Purple color was available in two sets.

Thanks you very much, again , Alex.


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Differences in varieties of 2x2 tile ( 3068 3068a 3068b )?
New AFOL here.
I am interested in the differences between the three flavors of 2x2 tile:
3068 Tile 2 x 2 (Undetermined Version)
3068a Tile 2 x 2 without Groove
3068b Tile 2 x 2 with Groove
Could someone explain the differences in these pieces, and perhaps post an image showing the differences?

Hi Bruce and welcome to Bricks.SE! Please take a look around, especially in the [help] and [tour] areas to familiarize yourself with the workings of our community :)

The difference is actually explained within the naming, which comes from Bricklink, a place where people buy and sell LEGO items around the world. In cases like Bricklink, especially with AFOLs, it is necessary to know which exactly parts you are dealing with.
During the years LEGO has been upgrading parts, where Tile 2 x 2 is not an exception.
Initial version is 3068a, which comes without a groove - its side is same like any other plate - smooth. While it may look great in an assembly it is hard to remove - there is no real gap between a tile and other part it is attached to. There's also no stud on top you could somehow use to take things apart (for example, with brick separator).
So LEGO eventually updated this tile (Bricklink denotes it as 3068b) to include a small groove, which helps with disassembling tile from other bits without much effort.
Bricklink uses "Undetermined version" for cases where seller can list an item without specifying which actual type (with or without a groove) it is.
I don't have any old parts on hand to take a picture, however you can see both tiles used in digital form are different. Green one doesn't have groove and Yellow one has.

Perfect explanation. Thanks Alex.

@Bruce if this answers your question it is advised to mark an answer as accepted.


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Colors common to multiple parts?
New AFOL here, learning the ropes of BrickLink searches.
Can't see how to do this, yet:
For which specific colors are all of the following parts available?

2 x 2 Brick (Part# 3003).

1 x 2   Plate (Part# 3023).

2 x 2 Tile (Part# 3068. Either 3068a or 3068b).

2 x 2 Inverted Tile (Part# 11203).

For bonus points (10000 thanks, give or take), is there a simple way to find these specific colors using the query capabilities in BrickLink?

In my experience from buying pieces ether through BL, LEGO.com, eBay, or the local shop in town, is to take note on the "condition" of the pieces.  These more common colors fade or look dirty over time: White, Yellow, Blue, Light Gray.  It was just easier for me to always buy them "New" vs. "Used".  Tiles get scratched up easily too. Since they tend to be the first thing you see on a build, I would avoid buying them "used" no matter the color.  So, basically, keep an eye out on mixed conditions, which can ruin the desired effect of a project.

The best way to figure out what colors a set of parts have in common is to use BrickLink’s Stud.io digital design software. I am unable to show screenshots at the moment, but here are the steps:

Open Stud.io
Place the parts in question on your virtual building workspace (doesnt matter in which color)
Select all the parts together, either by:

using the mouse to draw a selection square around the parts
using the mouse and the CTRL key to select parts one by one
using the parts list on the right side of the screen (the Step list) and with CTRL pressed selecting the parts there

In the Top of the right sidebar under “Color Palette”, click on the dropdown with the color name in it. This dropdown will show only the colors that the selected parts have in common.

You will have to check the “Hide unavailable colors” checkbox in this dropdown to make it work.

And to you Phil: 8.33626! thanks.

Unfortunately, you need to check available color for each individual part:
3003
3023
3068
11203
From what I can see most of the colors 11203 comes in are available in other parts as well.
Following your edit I can suggest another option for you - Color Guide. Select a color and click on Parts column to find all parts available in particular color.

Thanks Alex - 8.33626! thanks to you.


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What is the meaning of the available color lists in Bricklink searches?
Recent AFOL; figuring out Bricklink.
I'm trying to understand the color lists that are retrieved by searches in Bricklink.
Using Bricklink, I searched for part 3068a (2x2 tile without Groove), and looking at availability, and so forth.
Four categories of color lists are given in Bricklink:
Lots for Sale
On Wanted list
Price Guide info
Known Colors
The colors displayed in these categories puzzle me. For example, how is it possible for a color to be in the "Lots for Sale" list, and not be in the "Known Colors" list? Other possible discrepancies exist in these lists.
What do these lists of colors represent?
Here's a link to the available color lists for part 3068a:
https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?id=17085#T=C
For part 3068a, I scraped the data, looking for differences.
Here's a screenshot of part of the results, highlighting a couple of colors that are in lots for sale and are priced, but are not in the known color list:

Lots for Sale - this contains colors in which current part is being listed for sale.
On Wanted list - this shows which colors Bricklink members have added to their "wanted list". It doesn't mean parts in this color have existed. Most likely this being used to add non-existing color to list of wanted items and mark for notification. In such case if wanted item ever to appear for sale (and seller pushed this notification) person with desired item would be notified.
Price Guide info - here you can see sale/price history for each color for the past 6 months as well as items currently listed for sale.
Known Colors - here you can find colors which appear in released sets. Bricks in this list are tied to set inventories produced by community of Bricklink. If there ever be an error with inventory or it has alternative selection of bricks, this is being addressed by fixing or adding an alternative inventory for the same set. Every Bricklink member is welcome to make these fixes.
There could be several reasons why there are more colors for sale than on a list of known colors:

An error is an obvious thing. It is quite easy to make a mistake while listing individual part for sale if it has been produced in similar colors, or has variety in shape (with/without groove). Some shades of Blue and Pink are hard to distinguish. Shape differences aren't always so easy to notice too.
Some parts you see for sale may have been prototypes, test bricks or
produced for specific project (like life-size LEGO Bugatti has a ton of non-existing parts) which may have made their way somehow from the factory. This is not something you could request for as LEGO is trying to not let these items into the market.

One more thing to note. If you find a part in odd color and it isn't listed as HTF (Hard To Find) or Special Color, this is most likely a mistake while listing. Odd parts have quite a high value (depends on availability). Although it doesn't hurt to contact the seller to confirm the case before ordering.


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How to make a church bell
I'm planning a scene that includes a church bell. It's will need to fit into roughly 10X10X6 space.  It doesn't need to actually make any sound but the ability to swing a bit would be nice.
Here's the image from the scene
I figure I can use a bar, some clips and some stoplights to make the swinging part. Can anyone recomend some parts for the bell itself?

Look at the bell in the Lego kit for Big Ben (#10253). Building instructions are here (Step 276).
The bell itself is made from several round plates and parabolic reflector dishes. It's not hollow, but it could certainly be made to swing.


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Part differences between main and alternate models of 8285 set
Someone is selling the alternate model of the 8285 set

But I'm really more interested in the main model of that set.

Does anyone know how many bricks I'm going to be missing when only the bricks from the completed alternate model is included?
Do you know where can I download an inventory list for the alternate model?

8285-2 model doesn't exist. "-x" naming is used for different sets with the same number or significant difference between versions of the same set. What you are dealing with here is known as "B-model" or "alternate model".

Rebrickable has an option to compare set's main models and some of the B-models as well. However there is no inventory for second model for 8285 set available on Rebrickable. The best I could find is a LDraw file available on Eurobricks.
I've imported this file as a custom list on Rebrickable that could be used to compare with sets and MOCs. Imported file gave me some errors (so final result won't be 100% accurate) and I had to tweak this list a bit as there were wrong color or part type used on a file sourced from Eurobricks.
In the end it gave me a number of 83.% shared parts between both versions. Main model needs the rest 17%, which is roughly 320 parts (92 unique) that are not in B-model (excluding spare parts).
I would like to note this set comes in multiple inventories as it known to be initially released with some parts in Metallic Silver, which later were changed to Light Bluish Gray.
List of parts you would need for main model (not 100% accurate, but very close; may have some minor discrepancies due to issues with source file of alternate model):

I went through the 8285-2/alternate model instruction leaflets and made a list of how many of each part was used for the build.
I only had a (quite bad) PDF from Lego's website, so it might not be 100% correct, but I thought that others might get use of it, so I created it as a custom list on Rebrickable (I'm not yet high enough level to submit it as an official inventory).
Here's a link to the list: https://rebrickable.com/users/Hildesheim/lists/68485/
Here's a link to the comparison to the main 8285 model: https://rebrickable.com/sets/compare/slow/?1-set=8285-1&1-inv=24316&1-user_list=&2-set=&2-user_list=68485
(I don't take any responsibility for the list's accuracy -- might be a couple of parts off...)


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Can you identify the parts for this red wizard?
Can anyone identify the hair, head, or the sapphire gem in this photo?

Hair :

Part # 16691pb01
Minifigure, Hair Long with Nougat Headband Pattern

Head :

Part # 3626cpb0931
Minifigure, Head Dual Sided Black Eyebrows, Cheek Lines, Chin Dimple, Determined / Bared Teeth with Red Eyes Pattern (Superman) - Hollow Stud

Gem:

Part # 30153
Rock 1 x 1 Jewel 24 Facet
in Transred


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Can anyone ID this set, please?
Has typical City plane tail. Has 2 ADU (Earth Defense) minifigs inside. Cannot find online.
Thank you for your help!

Welcome! This looks like a MOC, not an official set. A LEGO City airplane tail does not go with Round 2x2 tiles with Star Wars related artwork.

There's a part on the front of the model named Wedge 10 x 3 Right with White Stripes, Yellow Triangle and Gray Lines Pattern (Stickers) - Set 8093

This piece was available in a single set - 8093-1 Plo Koon's Jedi Starfighter:

The model in question is not the same as the set which means it is someone's unique creation (MOC).

I can't make out the "LEGO" logo stamp on the studs at the front of the build. Back end top has an asymmetric build flow.  Looks non-official. Fan made.

The lack of visible LEGO marking on the studs might be explained by the thick layer of grime and the photography artifacts, but the random asymmetry is a rather telling sign, indeed.


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Mounting a mosaic modularly
I have this LEGO mosaic consisting out of 3 by 3 baseplates (32x32):

As it takes up too much space lying flat, I would like to mount it vertically or near vertically, slightly leaning backwards, like on an easel.
I'm looking for a solution that is modular, i.e. that I can easily take apart in smaller parts so I can put it in luggage for travelling and that is also as easy as possible to reassemble.
Also, I'd prefer a purist lego only solution, avoiding gluing if possible.
Any ideas?

I can suggest using a base MILS module (BTM-1 on the picture below), basically an extra layer including some Technic Bricks around the edge for connectivity between modules as well as some plates on top of existing baseplate. Yes, it is going to be bulkier and heavier, but at the same time much more sturdy and easy to assemble and take apart for travelling.
This also has an added benefit of making your surface 3D (BTM-2) if needed.

UPDATE
LEGO has now produced their own MILS-like elements used as a base layer for mosaic sets as well - Technic, Brick 16 x 16 x 1 1/3 with Holes (65803)

Fits the modular requirement for sure, however I think mounting MILS modules vertically might be a tad problematic.

Are you looking to hang mosaic on the wall or use some sort of stand for vertical orientation? MILS modules have Technic bricks on the edge. This is a great advantage and can be utilised to further strengthen the structure. Attaching extra Technic beam/liftarm/brick on side to make sure both modules won't disconnect. Going even further frame can be built around MILS modules for hanging or free-standing with the help of other Technic bits.


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Can anyone ID this ship, please?
None of this looks familiar to me, but its incredibly complicated. A LEGO set or fan-made?
Thanks

Not a LEGO set. Following up on details in comments it appears that Dcbarkley has managed to identify pictured model as a LEGO set thanks to this answer. However, my initial (wrong) assumption was based on dark color of the bricks used in the model. Picking up quite unique piece for cross-checking eventually led to correct set identification. Below you will find original answer:
Confirmed with Slope, Curved 5 x 8 x 2/3. It appears to be used in Black, however there's no set produced to have these slopes in Black. In case Dark Bluish Gray was used in the model, then still, none of the sets having this slope look like your model.

It is dark grey. The item is some damaged. Thank you for your help.

If you check URL I've shared you can see this part doesn't exist as LEGO in Dark Gray.

Found it! It's light grey and from Star Wars Imperial Assault Carrier. Set is heavily stained. Never would have identified without your piece help. Thanks!

I would have never guessed this is Light Bluish Gray colored set.


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Looking to identify set from a part
Looking to identify set from the following part

That's Support Crane Stand Double and Blue color was used in a single set - Highway Construction (6600)

Thanks Alex!!! Greeting from Hong Kong, Florian


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BricxCC not seeing USB Tower in Windows 10
I have a similar problem to BricxCC not seeing Serial Tower in Windows 10  except I have a USB tower (not a serial one).
I have spent hours on this and didn't manage to solve it. Tried installing it on Windows 10 following this guide: http://www.legoengineering.com/rcx-usb-tower-support/. I am trying to connect to a RCX2.0
Here are my 3 questions :

Can USB tower work with Windows 10 64-bit version?
How can I make sure my LEGO tower is getting the signal?
Why am I still getting the same message "No connection to the programmable brick..." with the version '''bricxcc_setup_33810_20130220.exe''' which apparently solves the issue ?

Please help ! I'm about to give up ..

See the answer to this question Lego Mindstorms RCX RIS 2.0 IR tower Windows 10 64-bit driver


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Rifle across the back
I'd like to build a hunter minifig with a rifle slung diagonally across his back.
I thought about using the dual katanas armor  but it looks like it would only fit a flat blade, right?
Does anyone have any ideas?
Also, what would be a good torso for an outdoors/forest/hunter type?

It might be better to split your question into two questions - one about the rifle attachment, and one about suitable torsos.

A quick search for LEGO ranger torso gives a good starting point or for more "camo" styles, the LEGO Endor Trooper might be better.

You could use
Minifigure, Neck Bracket with Back Stud
28974 thick /  42446thin
With
Tile, Modified 1 x 1 with Clip
15712 / 2555


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Capes and Hoods
Is it possible to fit both a cape and a hood on a single minifigure?

You could have easily answered this yourself by checking which sets/minifigures your cape comes with under "Known colors' on Bricklink.

This minifigure utilize both of your items:


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Flame Emblem and Cape
I'd like to build a minifig with this flame emblem on the chest.
Typically, this is done with an armor piece such as this. However, I also want to give the figure a cape, and I'm not sure if that will fit with the armor.  Is there an alternative way to put a 1x1 round tile on the chest of a minifigure? Has anyone had experience doing something like this?

Have you considered putting that tile on a Minifigure, Neck Bracket with Back Stud - Thin Back Wall?  Normally this is used to put something on a minifig's back, but it could also work on the chest.

Some minifigures have a combination with a cape you are looking for.

..and they would clearly show that you can fit both accessories. See, this is why you should Google your question before you even bother to ask an excessively easy-to-answer question.


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Which set does this part belong to?
Which set does this part belong to? Thanks very much!

Here are all the possible sets: https://www.bricklink.com/catalogItemIn.asp?P=30382&in=S
To me, that piece looks dark blueish gray, which would suggest either set 4209 or set 8095.

It is hard to detect correct color. So there is also a chance this would be a Sand Blue colored part.

When I saw the picture I also though sand blue,


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Do Thomas the Tank Engine Duplo trains seat figures?
Lego made Thomas the Tank Engine licensed Duplo sets in the 2000's decade at the same scale as current Duplo trains. Do the Thomas trains seat Duplo figures like current trains do? I've seen some pictures of disassembled Thomas trains (e.g. in this video) that seem to indicate that there is space under the roof of the train, but all of the Thomas trains seem to have opaque windows, possibly implying that adding figures was not a priority.

The train bodies do indeed consist of a stack of 4x4 "blocks" that were fully enclosed when assembled - and as I recall, we could fit a seated Duplo character within most of the cab sections.
Toby and the coaches had the most room, but most engines just about had room.


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Best Places to show MOC online?
Well, I finally finished one of my projects. Is there a friendly place online where I can post a few pictures of it for people to see?

I don't agree with the close votes. The user should have shown what he (or she) has tried so far, but the answers are experience based and not neccessarily just opinion based (a reason for closing). The question seems to be not even a duplicate. It attracts attention, has been answered and up-voted.

I have several places to offer for you to share your MOC.
Eurobricks - here we have a forum, split into several subforums based on the primary topic. Don't be afraid of "Euro" in its name - there are members from all over the world.
Flickr - photo hosting website, however there is still a strong LEGO community. You'd upload an image and add it to related LEGO groups for others to see. Having more followers makes it easier to be spotted by others.
Instagram - this doesn't need an introduction I hope. Posting your very first picture over there may not result in many likes. You need to invest time in getting followers.
Youtube - some people prefer making video of their creations rather than pictures.
Rebrickable - this website has multiple LEGO related uses. One of them allows you to share your MOC, but it needs to have a building instruction. So other people could also build your model and it is not just for show off.
Reddit - is another community which is about all things LEGO®. As Arturo Moncada-Torres suggested in comments you can also share your creations, just don't forget to tag it as MOC.

For the sake of completion, I would just like to add the reddit r/lego. When you create a new post, you can tag it as MOC. Some other more niche LEGO reddit's also allow such thing (e.g., r/legostarwars. Just be sure to check the rules of each subreddit, since some of them only allow posting certain types of content on a given day of the week

As noted in the comment below, you can disregard this recommendation. It WAS a great place, but it was abandoned by the founder.
Might I also recommend MOC-Pages? I haven't been active for some time, but I still check it out from time to time. Posts are more like blog posts, with editable HTML. There are also groups and contests to explore.

As of now, MOC-Pages is dead.

Yeah...I just found out about this recently. If I had spent more time on it in the last couple of years, I would be even more sad than I am about it.

You can upload your MOCs to
https://bellevebricks.com/
They have a modern design and it's easy to find MOCs.

This service is a "Secure and free platform for LEGO Designers to sign up and sell their creations", so not exactly suited for uploading MOCs that don't have instructions prepared.


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Lego Mindstorms Software: "Error code: 4"
After updating my EV3 Brick's firmware from V1.09E to V1.10E and reinstalling the Teacher Edition of the Lego Mindstorms EV3 software (even though I'm not a teacher), I decided to recover my Brick's files by downloading them from my Windows 10.
But when I downloaded one of the projects, the software froze for about 8 seconds, then gave the following errors. But I already know what they mean, so you don't have to worry about this. It looked like this:

I continued to make attempts to download the project, but every single time, I got the same results. At last, I chose to postpone downloading that project and started to download a different one. And that's when things got strange. I got a bunch of errors like before, but some of them now had "Error code: 4".
Unfortunately, I couldn't get a screenshot of the image at the time, but I do remember that all the program assets had this error while the programs themselves had "Error code: 0". And just like my other situation, no matter how many times I tried to download it, I still got the same results.
Fortunately I got rid of the problem by restarting my computer as well as the EV3 itself and then waiting a few hours before using either device again. Yet I still wonder, what is "Error code: 4"?

Hi mindstormsboi and welcome to Bricks.SE! Please take the [tour] and read the [help] in order to familiarize yourself with the guidelines and the structure and the functions of the site :)

Alright, I've read the tour already, but I might as well read it a second time again

I'm sorry for assuming you haven't read it, but your badge clearly says you are a new contributor and based on your statement "there wasn't a search bar for questions" in the first version of your question, I assumed you haven't yet found the help page about searching.

I did find the tour in my inbox, but I never found the help page. Hopefully, things are clear now.


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Lego Mindstorms EV3 software being detected as Ransomware
While I was programming my EV3 robot on my Windows 10, the Lego Mindstorms software immediately closed, and then Bitdefender Antivirus said that it was some sort of Ransomware. It was Bitdefender that closed the application. It looked like this:

Clicking on "attention required" then shows the following:

So then I pressed "Restore Location" and stored the file into some random directory without even knowing what I was doing.
Now I don't have this problem anymore, but I seem to be the only person who has ever had it. And I also wonder why MSIMGSIZ.DAT is needed for the Mindstorms software since Bitdefender seems to say that it came from the Internet Explorer.
Is there something wrong with my PC?
Or is this occurring because of the Mindstorms Software itself?
Btw, this happened to me two times in a row.

EDIT TO ADD
It turned out to be some corruption with the Mindstorms software, according to Lego. It didn't remember my brick because I used the Lego site to update firmware to a version that the software didn't recognize. Even now it still tells me to downgrade.

Instead of uploading you pictures somewhere else you can just add them to your post directly - use an icon with "image", while preparing your question.

Did you download your Mindstorms software from LEGO or did you use a 3rd party site? In the latter case it is indeed possible that the package got "updated" with a malware.

The MINDSTORMS software is build on Microsoft Silverlight, which is a web technology, so that could explain the connection to the Internet Explorer folder.

First of all, the application was installed from Lego. Second of all, the EV3 Brick's firmware was updated from V1.09E to V1.10E and the Mindstorms software was updated, too. I'm sorry for not giving this information in the first place.

I don't think this is something we can help with unfortunately. You might be able to raise this issue with LEGO directly with their support team

I'm voting to close this question as off-topic because it requires direct support from The LEGO Group.

Alright, I'll give it a try.


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Transparent Technic elements
I know these Technic liftarms come in clear transparent:
https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=32278#T=S&C=12

https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=32009#T=S&C=12

These liftarms come in a couple of transparent colors (not clear transparent):
https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=32348#T=S&C=15

https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=32449#T=S&C=15

Also this connector comes in transparent
https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=32016#T=S&C=12

And these connectors come in transparent red
https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=6538b#T=S&C=17

https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=32013#T=S&C=17

Are there any other liftarms, connectors or Technic elements in general that come in transparent colors?

There are far more parts within Technic category in Transparent colors and just too many parts to list them all. I suggest checking Color Guide on BrickLink, Transparent Colors section and pick first column (named Parts) Most of the colors have Technic bits in colors you are interested in.
For example, just Trans-Clear color has 23 items under various Technic categories.


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LEGO train 60198 isn't working
Battery box on my LEGO train 60198 is flashing green and orange, then after few seconds it suddenly turns off itself.
I've tried resetting it by pushing the button on the train until it turns purple, but then straight away it starts flashing orange again. After that it turns off itself.
Please explain what is wrong with it.

I got same issue as above. Changed all 10 batts (Remote and hub) in to Energizer max - and still same thing. Blinks Green (1x) and Orange (2x). Blinking is only at Hub. Remote is ok. Measured batts (if the voltage is ok - measured 1,54 to 1,64 V at 1,5 measuring routine) - should be ok. Once it rides - it makes like 2-3 meters, than simply power-off (Without White blinking). Any suggestions?

@Adam Welcome to Bricks.SE! I've added an answer with a few suggestions that might help when you know the batteries are good: https://bricks.stackexchange.com/a/15698/708

Same issue - TL;DR; Some Rechargeable batteries don't give out enough power.

LEGO guide shows the orange blinking appears when batteries are flat.
.
Have you tried using fresh batteries in your train?

Yes, all The batteries are new

I found following meaning for blinking colors:
Purple: network has been erased (or hub is waiting for new firmware)
Orange: low battery
So purple means your controller and battery box are no longer paired and this doesn't effect your issue. However if you still see orange color blinking there seems to be low batteries somewhere (either controller or battery box/hub). I would suggest taking out ALL batteries from both controller as well as battery box/hub and changing to fresh  batteries. Try not to mix and match different different brands.

Your batteries should also be non rechargeable ones. Rechargeable ones might give a too low voltage even when fully charged (about 7.2 V instead of the expected 9V). If you are certain that the batteries are not the issue, you could contact lego support, they will issue you replacement parts...

@MichaelVerschaeve does this come from experience? Because TLG is fine with rechargeable batteries and the following is included in instructions for 60198 under "Important information about batteries": "Rechargeable batteries must be recharged using the correct battery charger under the supervision of an adult. You cannot recharge batteries while they are still in the product, and you must never try to do so. Never attempt to recharge non-rechargeable batteries."

@Alex, the 7.2V I'm certain, and also sure that for EV3's rechargeable batteries were detected too fast as empty so I'm assuming this might be the case for boost as well.There was a trick however, you could insert a paperclip in a hole for the EV3 to let it know you were using rechargable batteries. This hole was also pinned when using the lego battery that came with the educational versions of EV3. I do not know of such trick with boost.

A note to everyone that the battery cell voltage at the end of capacity in around 0.8 volts for primary alkaline or zinc carbon and rechargeable nickel metal hydride battery chemistry. What this means is that the end of charge indication may appear sooner for rechargeable cells, but the actual endurance in the product will be similar as long as the cell capacity in WATT HOURS is similar between the various types of cells being evaluated.

A further note is that there are a lot of just crap AAA rechargeable nickel metal hydride batteries available for sale. So just be aware that just because there is a big number printed in the battery that claims it is "high" capacity do not believe it until you test that battery yourself. Also get a good charger that charges each cell individually. The ones that connect two or more cells in series for charging are crap.

I had exactly same issue with same model.
The battery box HUB NO. 4 was blinking green (colour of connection) and orange.
I changed to brand new batteries.
Still the hub was blinking green (colour of connection) and orange.
As they mention above it's due to the batteries is out.
What I like to add and to highlight is that there is x6 batteries to change.
LEGO - Powered Up troubleshooting - Changing batteries

Changing the batteries in your LEGO® Power Functions Train

Remove the LEGO Power Functions Battery Box from the train.
Remove the two screws on the bottom of the battery box.
Replace all six batteries with fresh, high quality AAA alkaline batteries.

We don't recommend mixing brands or old and new batteries.

LEGO - Building instructions for 60198 - Book 3 pdf
See page 9 instruction 2.

In my case I been to lazy and didn't check any instruction.
I only open the box, change the 3 batteries I saw and mount it back.
After changing all of the x6 batteries issue solved.

Here are a few other suggestions for folks that are still struggling with this issue or something similar after putting in new batteries.

Pair the hub with your phone and update it to the latest firmware using the Powered Up app if you haven't already done so.
Try controlling the hub using your phone. This will help to isolate the problem to either the remote or the hub.
Pull the batteries out of both devices and just let them sit for a couple of minutes and then put the batteries back in.
Contact customer service. This obviously doesn't help much with Christmas morning strife, but if your hub is indeed faulty, TLG will be happy to replace it at no cost.


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Can 2 baseplates be connected to make 2 story level?
My young girls are creating a house and want to connect baseplates to make a 2-story house. Is there a way? Are there specific pieces that can connect them?

Perhaps this question and answer can help you: https://bricks.stackexchange.com/questions/7367/is-there-a-baseplate-with-connections-on-the-bottom

Wdym? Do you mean that one baseplate is for the second floor while the other one is meant for the first? If so, you might see that you won't be able to build a way to get to the next floor (i.e. stairs or ladder). In this case, you should add another slim baseplate next to the first floor's baseplate and build the stairs or ladder on it to reach the next floor. But youll need some floor there, too. Just remember to make a hole so that they could get to the second floor! Oh, and obviously  you'll need some bricks to build the walls on the first floor, then you can attach the second floor on top

As Michael mentions, the following answer is probably the one you want: A baseplate does not have connectors on the bottom

Well, only SOME baseplates don't have connectors on the bottom. It really depends on the size.

@mindstormsboi Can you name any that have connectors on the bottom? I think that's part of the definition. Ones that have connectors are known as plates.

They are quite small compared to the ones that don't have connectors on the bottom. Some are 4 by 4, 5 by 13, 4 by 11, y'know.


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What went in the orange cylinders from Mars Mission?
While sifting a bin of LEGO's that I received as a gift I found this strange orange cylinder:

I was able to determine that it was part 58947pb01, the "Cylinder 9 x 4 x 2 Tapered with Flat Bottom, Pin Holes with 'HIGH RISK AREA' and Captured Alien Pattern (Sticker)".  It turns out to be from the Mars Mission theme, and appeared in six sets in 2007-2007.  I'm guessing this one came from 7694-1: MT-31 Trike:

As you can see the tube forms the spine of the trike and it has something in it.  Despite consulting the instructions and watching weird youtubes that turn out to be unrelated I still have no definitive idea what the things in the tube are.
Do you know how you were supposed to play with this?  What went into the orange tube?

I'd assume from the partslist this guy is in the tube:
https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?M=mm001

on the hypersled , as seen in the instructions, page 1. The astronaut captured the alien and put it in this cylinder

The hypersled really helps the picture make sense.  Now I get where the little white caps on the ends of the alien are coming from.  Now I just need to find those pieces!  So awesome.  Thanks!


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Can anyone identify this wheel-like part from the Kazi 10005 80cm WW2 German Railway Gun "Dora"?
Pictures below show a part from the Kazi 10005 80cm WW2 German Railway Gun "Dora".
I've been looking on Bricklink for this part, but I can't seem to find it.
Does anyone know if this actually exists in LEGO? And if so, what's the part number?

Is it the same part or two parts? Bottom one looks similar to https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=91049

@Alex : I think you're right. This does seem to he piece 91049. Thanks a lot for your comment!

not sure if I should post this as an answer?

@Alex : Why not? I'll definitely upvote your answer & will mark it as an accepted answer if I have confirmation that your assessment is accurate. Also, your answer might help other people who have a deformed version of this piece, or where it is missing...

I know of similarly looking LEGO piece - Minifigure, Utensil Barbell Weight.

The part has been ordered. I'll be able to verify whether this is the correct piece once it's arrived.

The LEGO barbell appears to be single-sided (with a stud fitting on the top side only)

Kazi bricks are not manufactured by Lego. They're a separate brand of "compatible" bricks manufactured in China and, as such, won't appear on Bricklink since that site is reserved exclusively for the sale of official LEGO blocks.

"The Site acts as an online platform for sellers to sell LEGO® items and designs for a model or creation using bricks"

You can find the full Kazi set available online here. I haven't seen any sites that sell Kazi bricks individually, but AliExpress host their 'official online store'. I'm reasonably certain if you contact Ali with an enquiry about replacing a specific (missing?) brick, they can pass it along to Kazi and get it sent out to you, especially if you stress that you're a loyal customer of their brand.

Maybe OP is looking to build model produced by Kazi but with LEGO bricks?

@Alex - From what I can tell, there's not necessarily a direct analogue between Kazi blocks and LEGO bricks. They fit each other, but they're not a 1-1 copy. Kazi has many bricks that are entirely unique

it is not uncommon for clone-brands to develop unique pieces. Do you happen to know what would be the closest analog for Kazi item in form of LEGO?

@Alex - I wouldn't even know where to begin. It's certainly not a common piece. I suspect it to be a unique, but it could easily just be a piece cloned from an obscure LEGO set.

The issue I had, was a deformed piece that needed replacement. I did contact my supplier in China, and they suggested I bought the equivalent LEGO piece from a local Bricklink store and they'd repay it, as that would be cheaper & more efficient than just sending the individual Kazi piece from China. @Alex identified this piece as 91049 in a comment, and I believe he's correct. Either way, I'm not familiar with any Kazi parts that have no LEGO equivalent. Maybe you're confusing Kazi with Quan Guan? If not, what parts are you thinking of?

@JohnSlegers - His piece seems visually to be dissimilar to the one in your picture but if you're happy that it's close enough, then who am I to argue?

@Valorum : The part has been ordered. I'll be able to verify whether this is the correct piece once it's arrived.


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What is the design number of this brick?
Attached is a picture of one of the bricks from the Dinosaur Set 31058. It is however not listed in the content list on lego.com, so I have not been able to find a replacement.

That's 98613c01 - Hero Factory Arm / Leg Extender with Ball Joint and Ball Socket on BrickLink.
LEGO call this item Ball Cup High Friction W. Rubber and use 74261 (design ID) and 6106472 (Element number) for latest sets.
LEGO doesn't always have full list of parts within a set as this depends on parts availability (maybe some other reasons too). You would get much better set inventory on BrickLink. Check your set - 31058 on BrickLink, where you can find the part you are looking to identify.


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Given program for EV3 Race Car doesn't work, but why?
I have successfully built an EV3 Race Car with instructions from a fan-made book made by Laurens Valk. In the book, he tells how to make my blocks for the rack-and-pinion steering and how to make a remote-control program with those custom blocks, too. I am eager to try it out, but unfortunately one of the my blocks that are required does simply nothing. To be more specific, it does 100% nothing. In fact, it doesn't even show that screen you see when you run the program.
This is the center my block, and according to the book it's supposed to check to see if the front wheels are not perfectly straight like the rear wheels (which aren't even supposed to turn, anyway) and if so it will realign them so that they are aligned and it should lock them in place. Here is the given blueprint from the book:

The author is no longer active on the website where you can contact him, and yes, I did update the EV3's firmware and reinstalled the software.
I don't see any reason for the program to not work, so I'm hoping one of you will help to fix it.
Oh, and you'll probably want to know about the other necessary details so here's the part of the book that involves this car:  https://magbuhatrobotics.files.wordpress.com/2017/05/chapter-12.pdf

You have shown us what the code SHOULD look like, but not what you have actually coded yourself. Can you provide this?

It should be in the PDF file that I have already given. Pages 25 & 26 should have it, and page 26 should have the blueprint for the center my block. FYI, the reason it says on his program that all the ports are in A and yet for mine it's D is because I stuck my medium motor into Port D instead of A to avoid cramping up physical space and to avoid the visibility of the ports sticking out all over the place.

Code seems entirely correct to me. Just checking, but you do realize the code is supposed to do nothing if the wheels are aligned ? Do the other myblocks work ?

The other my blocks work, and I turned the wheels yet the script STILL doesn't do anything.

Is your D motor fully plugged in? Can you share pictures of the build, and of the entire program you have written?

Recently I rebuilt the car. I remembered my old question here and just decided to download the files from his site directly. I probably made a mistake somewhere, but now I don't know and I don't care.


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What is this? Is it LEGO? Dark Green, detailed mouldings, roughly trapezoid shaped
I've been sifting through a few gifted bins of LEGO with a small percentage of trash and clone-brands stuff.  I've had pretty good luck with finding new and strange LEGO pieces on bricklink, but this one has me stumped.

I don't see LEGO printed anywhere on it.  Another discouraging factor is on the bottom where I see numbers that would suggest it is not LEGO:

But it fits Technic pins perfectly so maybe it is something LEGO that I've never seen before:

So have I been lured in by some clone part or is this a real LEGO thing?

That's LEGO piece - 47299 - Bionicle Toa Metru Knee Cover. You can see © sign in LEGO font as well as "47299" part number on the bottom, both of which confirm this is legit item.


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Unsure what set this is
I have a LEGO set without box or instructions. Some information about it is that it has a brick that’s kind of odd. It’s clear but at the bottom it isn’t and it has some type of metal in it the bag should all over say 135149. And I’m pretty sure it is not the Star Wars set. As I remember the box faintly.

This is:
31051-1: Lighthouse Point

based on the 1 x3 brick in Medium Blue and the Red Plate, Modified 1 x 4 with 2 Studs without Groove
The "odd' brick is  Dark Bluish Gray Electric, Light Brick 2 x 3 x 1 1/3 with Trans-Clear Top and Yellow LED Light (Glows Orange)

Spot on! I can hardly see modified 1 x 4 plate in Red. Not sure how have you spotted it as all of them look like tiles. I would have used Round Corner 2 x 2 Macaroni in Red as a second part to confirm the set.

I saw some instructions and it was right the bag was shiny due to tape on it. (The tape was on because I was moving and the set was opened)


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Combine Duplo feet with regular LEGO
I would like to place this Duplo pig directly on Lego bricks/pieces. I tried an intermediate Duplo 2x4 plate with Lego bricks underneath, but it doesn't look good. The problem is that Duplo feet surround the studs. Therefore, Duplo feet don't fit onto Lego studs. Is there an elegant way to connect Duplo animals' feet with the Lego world?

@Uli found promising solutions, one of them is to use the Technic Engine Piston Round. It has some clutch power and at least transfers the issue into the regular LEGO world. Now I have to find a way to connect tow ball pieces to the rest of my MOC, Uli has provided some ideas.

Scientific progress goes OINK!

This is an older DUPLO pig from the 70's, and its different design offers us some new possibilities.
For example there's a rectangular hole below the neck.

Now before we go any further, the LEGO policeman would like to remind everybody that stuffing plates into rectangular holes or jamming them between studs isn't exactly HIS cup of tea. Thank you very much.

That said, a one-by plate and tile will fit tightly into the hole under the neck. The tile allows for further details, more on that in a moment.
The one-by plate is then attached to a jumper plate. So this will be a snout, sorry, SNOT thing of a sort.
A wedged plate that sits between the hind legs will add some lateral stability.

Alright, so here's piggy (sporting a black Colin Furze style tie/ tile) now safely tied onto some crazy contraption.
And here's piggy sticking his (red tile) tongue out at our LEGO purists.

THBPBPTHPT!

EDIT: As it turns out, a piston has the right size. Conveniently, it can be attached to any tow ball piece.

EDIT: Added a close-up

It might not be a solution for pig in question, but it was fun to read.

I like the facial expression of my pig. This post makes me think. Maybe SNOT is the answer to my question.

@Aziraphale Following an edit by Uli I did test this with couple of Duplo pieces I have and can confirm that Technic Engine Piston works fine, not too tight, not too loose.

@Alex, you are right, see updated question. Uli, how did you find this solution??

@Aziraphale pure coincidence, tested out every stud shaped bit of LEGO I found in my bins.

@Aziraphale Added a close-up...

I am still waiting for the bricklink delivery with 27448 tiles that Alex suggested in one comment of his answer. Therefore, I tried a less subtle solution:
This is the starting point: A DUPLO pig that needs to be put directly on LEGO pieces.

I decided to cut a DUPLO piece to regular LEGO size. A DUPLO 2x2 brick was converted to a ...

... 4x4 tile, modified, with 2x2 DUPLO studs. My methods were crude (metal saw and cutter), but it worked quite well. There is only little height difference to the surrounding LEGO plates, and the clutch power is really good:

This is an approximation of the final goal to use the DUPLO pig as a figurehead in a LEGO MOC/MOD:

Edit: The 27448 tiles finally arrived, but there was no way I could get clutch power. I measured 9.3 mm for the diameter of the tile ring, and 9.4 mm for the DUPLO stud. This difference is enough to loose any clutch power. Even with 4 tiles combined there was no binding strength at all. Other DUPLO animals showed same results. A DUPLO human figure, however, could at least have a little bit of bonding when the ring is pushed into the toe area.

whoa, nice work! but it will make the purists squirm :)

@htmlcoderexe I know, this is a beyond-illegal technique. Hopefully, I can leave this path when the 27448 tiles arrive.

How much space there is between front/back legs? Uli's answer gave me an idea about using 4865/4865b part between the front/back legs. Either one (pig would be slightly of centre line) or both (would be centered) might fit into that gap.

@Alex the distance is something between 18.0 mm and 18.1 mm.

Don't have too much experience with DUPLO, so my suggestion is based on my limited knowledge.
I'm not aware if there a way to attach pig directly to LEGO bricks, however I thought of a workaround. Here, green DUPLO figure legs represent your pig feet.

As mentioned, I did exactly that, but I want to avoid any extra Duplo brick or plate in my build. There must be some other solution. There must be LEGO pieces that somehow fit into Duplo feet.

Without seeing an example, you've described in the question, it wasn't very clear what kind of solution you have already tried. I've figured out whichever LEGO piece or assembly, that should be used to connect feet of a pig to LEGO bricks should be 12.8mm, 8 units or 32LDU in size.

I agree, normally the DUPLO plate solution is fine. However, this particular pig is going to be a sort of figurehead with as little as possible material underneath it.

My assumed size was a little wrong. Not entirely wrong, but won't dig much into details for now. So it turns out I got couple of DUPLO pieces. Caliper measured DUPLO stud diameter is 9.39 mm. Closest LEGO sized part I found for now is https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=61485 where middle ring is 9.30mm (visually, both are same diameter). There are two more similar looking parts, however I don't own any of them to check dimensions: https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=3403 and https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=27448

LDraw parts used in LDCad show that 61485 and 27448 have inner ring of the same diameter, while 3403 has larger ring. And I just though 61485 part (if it fit) won't work for you, since you cannot fit two legs side-by-side using it. So 27448 is the only suggestion for now. I'm unable to test and confirm if this works and how good is the clutch power since none of my DUPLO has single stud connections.

Alex, thank you for the effort. Currently, I like the 2x2 modified tile (61485) more than the 4x4 turntables because it would fit under the pig, even if I can only attach one single leg (or maybe one front and one back leg). The 4x4 turntables would extend to the side (if I understand correctly that the middle ring acts as Duplo stud under a foot). Fun fact: 61485 only comes in white color.

I meant 27448, not 61485, of course.

I ordered some of the 27448 tiles to test this solution. If you want you can post it as separate answer. If it works it will be interesting for everyone.

Just share your results here. And if that works I'll amend answer with this suggestion to use 27448 part.

Alex, I just tried your solution with the 27448 tiles. Unfortunately, no success. See my own answer with the sawn up DUPLO brick for details.

@Aziraphale, oh well, at least we now know 0.1mm is a lot to get the right clutch power.

Since Duplo is a 1:2 scale to Lego, I figured any Lego element twice the size of a regular stud would work. I tried out the pistons and piece 61485 (turntable) before I saw this page, and I saw that it worked so I went online to investigate to see if anyone else had had the same idea. I also thought of the 27448 piece and your post confirmed it. Just in case you didn't know, I found out that a Technic pin - preferably 6558, 32054 (don't know about the friction-less or shorter ones) - is able to fit in a Duplo figure's hand, being that it is double the width of a bar piece.


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Fiery hair/head
I thought I saw a head with flames on it. (Maybe it was a hair piece?).  I looked for 'flame' and 'fire' on BrickLink but couldn't find it.
Here's a custom minifigure that may be using the hair piece I'm looking for.

I could find a few pieces with flames on BrickLink:
Minifigure, Headgear Head Cover, Flame Head Piece

Minifigure, Head Modified Alien with Trans Orange Flaming Hair and Reddish Brown Face, Yellow Eyes and Headband Pattern

Minifigure, Head Modified Alien with Trans Orange Flaming Hair and Skull with Yellow Eyes Pattern

Minifigure, Head Modified Alien with Trans-Orange Flaming Hair and Pumpkin Jack O' Lantern Pattern

Your picture seem to be showing a non-LEGO piece, which is similar to Minifigure, Hair Spiked Top, Plain. Also a comment on Flickr for this picture suggest: "It appears to be a trans-red knockoff piece with the goggles painted on"


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What is a "MOD" and how does it differ from a "MOC"?
In this imgur post, one of the images is captioned "MODs and MOCs - Ocean Beach, Kingsman Tailor shop, Sanctum Santorum."
If a "MOC" is a "My Own Creation," what is (the most commonly used definition of) a "MOD"?
This thread on Eurobrick suggests that "MOD" could stand for "My Own Design" (which might or might not be different from "MOC"), or could just be a relatively minor "MODification" of an existing set.
I didn't see a consensus over there, and I don't see the question raised on StackExchange yet, so I thought I'd ask StackExchange. What's a MOD? And when would you use that term instead of "MOC"?

It's MODification, "My Own Design" is silly.
Also used quite extensively outside of the LEGO community, e.g. in gaming a MOD is altered game code you execute, either to cheat or to change graphics for fun.
So an existing set where you altered things to is a MOD.
A MOC is created from scratch.

I agree with this. Mods are likely easier to get started with. Altering an oceanic research vessel into a warship by taking out the laboratory equipment and adding cannons and missile launchers would be a mod. This is certainly a lot easier than making your own warship from scratch.


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Bugatti Chiron - loose connection to wheels
I’m currently building this set and I notice that the connection to the front wheels often falls out. This is the small red line between the wheel and ball joint.
It depends on the angle. It is almost certain to come apart of you pull the wheel away from the body.
Is this resolved and held in place later in the build, or have I missed something?
[![enter image description here][2]][2]
[2]: https://i.stack.imgur.com/GmFXM.jpg

Could you add additional picture from the inside of the hub in the situation shown on 2nd picture? Right now it looks like your CV joint seem to be a little too deep inside the hub.

I have added an additional photo. Does this help?

I  think you have the wheel at an angle which is out of the range of angles the finished model will be able to do

It would be best to remove thin 5L liftarms/beams to see the connection between CV joint and hub.

I’ve added another photo. I’m holding it at the tightest point. The images in the instruction manual show the two grey parts touching, with no red bar visible.

I was wondering if it was just a range of movement that wouldn’t be possible once assembled. It makes construction somewhat fiddly as it tends to fall out!

That's intended. When you have your spring compressed driving axle becomes shorter. This actual CV joint is designed not to have no friction with an axle and allow some freedom to move.

I see a gap between the grey part and the black part. They should be flush picture 1. Normally it take some force to assemble these hub parts.

If you look to the back side of the "back" side you must see the clip of the grey as
picture 2.

The grey part must rotate freely so if you apply some force to if and have it slow down if its own it must continue to rotate for some seconds until it stops

You’re exactly right. I took a look at it this morning with w clear head and realised that these bits snapped together.
Came here to answer my own question and you’ve helpfully beat me to it. Thanks!

Wow, I was having the same problem. I did not push hard enough to get the 2 pieces locked together. Thanks for posting the question and thanks for the answer


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Please help me identify the set these LEGO parts are from
They could definitely be from two separate sets. Any help would be appreciated!

That's an easy one:

It's part of the Modular Buildings series in the LEGO Creator Expert line.
It's a series intended for the advanced builder, consisting of detailed buildings that click together to form a street.

You are the best!

(@AliceShah you can mark it as the Answer by clicking the check mark left of the post.)


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Realistic Lego car sets containing gearboxes and engines?
Lego Technic 853/956 Auto Chassis contains a car chassis, complete with a transmission gearbox. Other sets like Lego Technic 858/8858 Auto Engines contain parts to build working models of real-life Inline engines, V6 engines, Boxer engines, and 2-cycle engines.
Most Lego cars are unrealistic as they only have wheels and axles. I am looking for sets that contain a chassis, a transmission gearbox, and an engine. In other words, I am looking for Lego sets that model real cars. Are there any such sets in the 21st century?

LEGO sets
There are more than one set with such characteristics. While first four are from 20th century, I've included them anyway, since they are well-known and include characteristics you are interested in.
Let's begin with 8860 - Car Chassis from 1980. This model has steering, 4-cylinder engine, 3-speed transmission, adjustable seats, rear suspension, differential:

The second one is 8865 - Test Car with steering, V4 engine, 3-speed transmission, adjustable seats, 4 wheel suspension, differential, retractable headlights:

Next is 8880 - Super Car from 1994 with 4-wheel steering, V8 engine, 4-speed synchronized transmission, 4 wheel independent suspension, 3 differentials, all-wheel drive:

Then 8448 - Super Street Sensation from 1999 with steering, V8 engine, 5-speed synchronized transmission with reverse, suspension, differential:

Now moving forward to the 21st century.
8466 - 4 X 4 Off-Roader is the first set from 2001 with steering, V8 engine, 5-speed synchronized transmission with reverse, suspension, 4 wheel drive:

42056 - Porsche 911 GT3 RS from 2016 has steering, rear flat 6 engine, rear-wheel drive, 4-speed synchronized with reverse and paddle shifting, suspension:

42048 - Race Kart from 2016 is another, while small model, but still has 1 cylinder engine and 2-speed gearbox:

42083 - Bugatti Chiron from 2018 comes with steering, rear W16 engine, 8-speed gearbox with paddle shifting, suspension:

42110 - Land Rover Defender from 2019 with steering, in-line 6 engine, 4-speed sequential gearbox, suspension:

42115 - Lamborghini Sián FKP 37 from 2020. It has steering, W12 engine, 8-speed sequential transmission with paddle shifting, suspension:

And the latest addition - 42143 - Ferrari Daytona SP3 from 2022. It has steering, V8 engine, 8-speed sequential transmission with paddle shifting, suspension:

LEGO MOCs
In case you are not limiting yourself to LEGO sets there is another option - MOCs produced by AFOLs. You can find them mostly on Rebrickable. There are a lot of creations based on real-life vehicles with functions sometime (quite often for larger models) exceeding those you can find in LEGO sets. Not all of them are as sturdy as LEGO models, but that is a personal preference. Although all of them come with free/paid instructions. Here is an example of MOCs in Technic theme.

Features for sets from early days up to and including 8466 are sourced from Technicopedia. Here you can find animations and more details for each of those sets. Newer sets, sadly, have not been reviewed on Technicopedia.

let's not forget 8860! this chassis has a four cylinder boxer engine, and a 3-speed unsynchronized transmission gearbox, complete with an ignition distributor and a belt driven cooling fan; full suspension and a differential.

@CeeMcSharpface thanks for pointing this out. Somehow forgot about 8860 set. LEGO prior to 1990 is a bit of a grey area for me.

You missed the first Car Chassis model (853) from the late 70's. 4 inline engine, 3 speed gearbox (2 forward, 1 reverse), diff, steering and adjustable seats. (No shocks on the rear suspension, slightly predates those.)

@Tonny OP already mentioned 853 set in his question as an example.

@Alex I missed that. My bad. There are however 2 cart models 8842 and 948 that I miss. Both have steering and 1 cylinder engine.

There are 126 sets with Technic Engine Cylinder used to make an engine. It is rather basic functionality. As I understood OP's question, he isn't satisfied with such simplicity and seeks for sets that have at least gearbox. Now this limits the list quite a bit as you can see, as it turns out not that many sets have actual gearbox mimicking real one used for propulsion. Of course there are other sets with gearboxes too, where those are used to drive different functions of a crane, excavator, etc. from a single source (motor). But these doesn't fit the question.

I had http://www.technicopedia.com/8865.html - 3 speed gearbox, V-4 rear engine, rear differential. It also had rack and pinion steering, which I -- being in the UK -- converted to right-hand drive. It's fairly clearly derived from 8860.

@RogerLipscombe I have no excuses for missing this set. Added now!

I remember playing with a Technic car that had a working steering wheel when I was a kid in the 90s that I don't think you listed. Not sure if it had engines or a gearbox, though. I think it might have been grey?

@nick012000 Steering is also very (too) common feature. In just 5 last years 35 models have been made with one or another way of steering. To give you an impression of how many Technic sets have steering - check Brickset (https://brickset.com/sets/tag-Functional-Steering/theme-Technic). Most of these doesn't fit the question, so weren't listed.


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What set is the head in this MOC from?
This MOC uses some kind of armour for the head and possibly the thighs. I thought it was Hero Factory but I couldn’t find it on Bricklink.

I would greatly appreciate any help in identifying it!

It looks like Hero Factory Weapon Accessory - Machinery Armor is the part you are looking for.


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What are the part numbers for these book-like items?
post of LEGO-like books from Aliexpress

Have you checked BrickLink already? Quick search for "book" gives you all the LEGO items...

Your post links to a clone brand
The original LEGO parts are
Part # 24324 : Minifigure, Utensil Book Binding with 2 Studs in Pearl Gold
and the Book Covers from Nexo Knights


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Do you know what set these go to?
These are more dark grey than green. Maybe from a jet or alligator or crocodile? !

Wedge 6 x 2 Right with Reptile Skin, Red Eye, White Teeth Pattern

Wedge 6 x 2 Left with Reptile Skin, Red Eye, White Teeth Pattern

These two wedges appear in The Batboat: Hunt for Killer Croc

Wedge 4 x 4 Triple with Stud Notches with Exo-Force Circuitry Pattern (Sticker) - Set 7705

As name suggest this piece comes in 7705 - Gate Assault

Wedge 4 x 4 No Top Studs with Two Red Arrows on Dark Bluish Gray Background Pattern (Sticker) - Set 7256 in your picture has incorrectly applied sticker.

Again, set is described in the name - 7256 - Jedi Starfighter & Vulture Droid

The last item depends on the color, it is either Windscreen 10 x 6 x 3 Bubble Canopy Double Tapered with Light Bluish Gray Jedi Starfighter Pattern and is part of single set.

or Windscreen 10 x 6 x 3 Bubble Canopy Double Tapered with Dark Bluish Gray Jedi Starfighter Pattern which appear in 3 sets.

Since you got a wedge piece from 7256 it is highly likely the canopy is from the same set.

OMG! Thank you so much!!!!!

Those parts are from different sets. The wedges at the top left have only appeared in The Batboat: Hunt for Killer Croc
That set does not contain the other parts in your picture.

Thank you very much!


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Actuator availability?
Is it true that there is no way to purchase any sort of Technic/PF/PU linear actuator directly from Lego at this time? The current giant Liebherr excavator seems to include #40918, a part which was only introduced last year, but they can't be bought individually on the store, Pick-a-Brick or the Education site. Is this true, or am I missing something?
I know that they are available on eBay and other secondary market sites, but it seems odd that they cannot be bought directly.

Short answer: Yes.
Long answer:
Technically linear actuators are not part of PF/PU system, so they are treated as generic part. S@H don't sell individual parts apart from PF/PU elements. Pick-a-Brick (PAB) has very limited part selection and linear actuators are never available there as well. I also haven't seen LEGO Education selling any actuators, only PF/PU elements. This brings us to the only possible place - Bricks'n'Pieces (B'n'P). Here you can usually buy most of individual parts from recently produced sets. However some parts are never listed for sale. These are either absent or have a note suggesting that piece cannot be bought this way (for example, PF/PU items). I remember linear actuators being in this grey area so I cannot tell if actuator you are interested in (even though I'm interested in new Technic elements I didn't pay much attention to this piece) was available for sale at any point. Missing/broken parts option, which is similar to B'n'P, on LEGO Service webpage actually has Large Actuator on the list and can be requested if your is broken or missing, obviously. So it may be possible that this item could be purchased on B'n'P after all. However this cannot be confirmed by the time of this answer as Bricks'n'Pieces is unavailable due to COVID-19.
If you really need the piece - you already found it on secondary market. There is nothing really against using it as prices are often lower than LEGO B'n'P offers. Shipping is also quicker than LEGO could offer.

Thanks for the info. Forgot about BnP so will try there whenever the virus subsides.


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Please help me identity this part (Duplo size)
I got a lot of pre-owned blocks and there's a part I couldn't figure what it is for. There is no part number printed on it; I guess it is not produced by LEGO, probably just some clone brands instead. It is Here are the pictures:
.
It is compatible with my other Duplo blocks and I'm curious what can I build with it. Thanks.

Did you get it in a kit?

In other words, did you get it in a complete set that was never opened before you bought it? If so, you should look at the part list on the back of the manual to see what part it is (it won't tell what you can build with it). If you bought a random grouping of Lego Bricks, you should check out Bricklink and look for it there. Keep in mind you won't find third-party bricks in there, but I still recommend you look there anyway.

@mindstormsboi isn't that the whole point of this question asking YOU to go to Bricklink to find the piece since you are, probably, more knowledgeable?

I'm new to it, so I might not know where and how to find the part. But I guess I'll do it to save Since1996's time and hassle.

@Since1996 do you know the age of the block? Was it mixed with modern-day duplo blocks? That would give me some help finding it.

Wait, The older duplo blocks look quite identical to modern-day duplo blocks. Nevermind.

@mindstormsboi What I have are two huge containers of hand-me-down bricks,  some are Lego and some are knockoffs/clone-brands, all mixed together.

Oh, that could explain a few things. I didn't see the brick on bricklink, but I can't guarantee it's not a duplo brick.

Thanks everyone for joining the discussion and trying to help. It turns out that the part to be identified is designed to be used as the handle for gears.

Was it a knock-off?

Gotta be a knockoff because there don't seem to be Duplo gears with 16 teeth (only 24 and 40) and the crank looks like this: https://brickset.com/parts/4493718/dacta-crank


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What is this Mandalorian helmet/jetpack from?
I found this flat silver & blue Mandalorian helmet & jetpack in a mixed bag of minifigs. I'm pretty sure it's not LEGO - there's no LEGO mark or part number and the only thing printed is the number "2" on the inside of the helmet.   There is no color on the jetpack.
All the LEGO Mandalorian parts I found online have the helmet and jetpack as 2 separate parts - this one has them connected.
Can anyone find what non-LEGO set or figure this is from?  I didn't think anyone else had the rights to make Star Wars parts.

This is probably a clone branded item. LEGO uses jet pack as a separate item: https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=64802

The clone-brands are notorious for ignoring licensing rules.  Also, the LEGO Star Wars helmets I glanced at are smooth on the top.  The dimple in the middle of your helmet could be due to lazy injection molding, which is another sign that this is a clone brand item.  That doesn't stop someone from knowing and answering, so we'll see if anybody knows.

This is part# x50px2
Minifigure, Headgear Helmet SW Rocket Pack with Jango Fett Colors Pattern
it belongs to Jango Fett (Balaclava Head)
From set 7153-1: Jango Fett's Slave I

Holy cow - good find. This was not coming up on my searches!

According to OP "there's no LEGO mark or part number", and the flashing on the visor is a lot more visible than on the pictures in Bricklink; both indicators of a clone part. Does anyone know where the LEGO marking should be on an official part?

It is real LEGO, these old boba fett/jango fett helmet and jetpack assemblies have numbers on the inside and no other markings such as the word LEGO.


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Front driveshafts on landrover defender don't stay in place
The front driveshafts on my Land Rover Defender keep falling out, then the cogs fall out of the front differential. I have done them three times as per the manual, but every time I get the same result. What am I doing wrong?

Could you post some pictures of problematic place within your suspension assembly?

Thanks Alex - in the middle of last night i discovered the problem. You have to click the hubs together and then it works. Now though i have the same problem as others i see here, with the front wheels turning one way and the back wheels the other.

Your trouble is most likely explained in https://bricks.stackexchange.com/questions/10780/9398-4x4-crawler-front-wheels-rotate-in-the-opposite-direction-to-the-rear-wheel . In case you face other issues you should raise them as a separate question.


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How to get Lego Mindstorms EV3 expansion set (45560) programmes in Scratch
I bought recently Mindstorms EV3 expansion set (45560) and found out that the available programs are written in old LabView-style programming language: https://le-www-live-s.legocdn.com/sc/media/files/ev3-program-descriptions/ev3-program-description-elephant-e20fc1fce44f0596fd83d090346e5c30.pdf .
Since the Lego released new version of programming environment - EV3 Classroom which supports Scratch - the old Labview-style language is no longer supported.
The official Lego site doesn't provide Scratch versions of the expansion set robot programms. Neither does the EV3 Classroom.
Is there any way to obtain Scratch versions of programs for expansion set robots?