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What is this part used for? 2x4 plate with a round bit sticking out with a hole
I have 4 of these pieces they are marked Pat Pend. Does any one know what these pieces are?

BrickLink calls it a train coupler. So it's for trains. (It might also be a closed variant, I can't tell from the photo.)


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Can you identify this large sword?
I thought it was something in the bionicle set, but I can't find it on bricklink. Anyone know what this is?

How did you know it was a sword, rather than a wing or something else?

It's actually originally a Hero Factory piece.
11338 - Hero Factory Weapon - Axe/Sword with Jagged Blade

A red one is exclusive to 70203 - CHI Cragger.

source: Stack Exchange

license: Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/

sort: votes


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Hair and head for MTG Chandra Ablaze
Is there any female head and hair that can approximate the picture from the MTG card "Chandra, Ablaze"?

I don't even have to have the goggles, I'm just looking for that "crazy psycho chic" look.

Perhaps Ghost Rider? "Minifigure, Head, Modified Alien with Trans-Orange Flaming Hair and Skull with Yellow Eyes Pattern" https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=26990pb02

The answer by RSchulz has a much better "hair" than I was able to find, but I did find a couple encouraging heads by searching for "angry face". Edit: Since the hair RSchulz found is not detachable from the head, I added hair at the end of the post.
They look like they're meant to be inside hoods/helmets so some modification (color matching, removing edge lines) may be necessary depending on how realistic or close-up you want to go.

Minifigure, Head Dual Sided Balaclava with Face Hole, Orange Eyebrows, Cheek Lines, Smile / Angry Pattern - Hollow Stud

Minifigure, Head Dual Sided Balaclava with Light Nougat Face, Red Eyes, Firm / Angry with Gritted Teeth Pattern - Hollow Stud
And the best hair I can find is this one:

Minifigure, Hair Ponytail High with Orange Flame Pattern

I wasn't able to find any standalone trans-orange flaming hair pieces, which really limits the flexibility of any design. The best I found was the head suggested by RSchulz. Note that this part does come in a number of colors and prints. Another possible option might be the Firestorm version:

Another option that doesn't look as much like fire but that gives more flexibility for selecting an appropriate face may be Syndrome's hair:

Nobody has posted anything better, so I'll try it as an answer:
Perhaps Ghost Rider?  Minifigure, Head, Modified Alien with Trans-Orange Flaming Hair and Skull with Yellow Eyes Pattern

Is the flaming hair fused onto the minifig head, or is a separate, removable piece?

Unfortunately, it's fused. I like the idea of Syndrome's hair!

all_licenses: Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/


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Does anyone know what set this belongs to? Dark red, and greens
Recently I bought a bunch of LEGO pieces and stuff from a garage sale, but one of the things I also got was this bag. The number says 135149 and it’s from 2011. I figure it might be from Star Wars due to the green laser pieces and maroon pieces, but I’m not sure. There might’ve been other bags that were supposed to go with it, small ones, but I can’t be sure.

Others better at this than I might be able to make out what the pieces are, but to me, it's quite blurry. If you could take another photo of just the pieces (no hand, no background) and make sure they're in focus, it might help us all.

What RSchulz said, or more detailed: open the bag, spread out the pieces on a white (or light monochrome) background to minimize overlap, then take a picture with the plane in focus where the pieces fill the frame but don't extend out of it and finally upload the photo in original (unreduced) size.

While proper identification is only fully possible after you follow the comments of Zovits and RSchulz and include a better picture, I am pretty sure this bag belongs to set 75191 Jedi Starfighter with Hyperdrive. This is because:

It has at least 3 bags due to its size (and you have a bag 3)
It includes the projectile in trans bright green
It includes at least one of the 4x6 wedge plates in dark red, visible in the right bottom of the bag. There are other sets with the projectile and dark red pieces (all in the Star Wars theme) but from what I can make out, 75191 is the only one with this wedge plate.


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Which set had these LEGO cars with Pat. Pend.?
I have three of these they are marked Pat. Pend. all pieces are the body's are white blocks wheels are red.
What set are these from?

These are Train Base 4 x 7 with Wheels Holder

with Train Wheel with 2 x 2 Stud Center, Traction Teeth

and Turntable 4 x 4 Complete, Perfectly Round

They were found in two sets from 1966:


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Which LEGO set bricks with words Basel, Genova, Hamburg, Post belong to?
I have these bricks with these words on them. I have searched on the internet, but can't find what sets these would go to.
Does anyone know ?

Those pieces were in one set: 113-2 from 1966.


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How is the curved top of the WWII Aid station tent made?
How did they make the curved top of the tent in the WWII Aid station?

I assume you aren't looking for complete instructions, but rather interested in main element used to construct tent. In such case Sports Arena Section / Skateboard Ramp (43085) has been used in Tan.

The models featured on Bricklink include a parts list, model file and instructions. You can see there that the curved tent is a skateboard ramp and the edges are 1x4 tiles attached with Technic pin 1/2.

This is a much better answer - it actually shows how to get the desired information given what the asker knows.


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Looking for a big set of tires and rims for my monster truck - really beefy tires
I'm looking for big beefy tires and rims for my large Technic monster truck. I also need something for off-roading.

How large is "large" here?

https://bricks.stackexchange.com/questions/235/what-are-the-largest-technic-compatible-tires-on-the-market

Hi Hunter Mentch, and welcome to Bricks! As RSchulz points out we do already have a fairly comprehensive answer to "What large tires are/have been available" - are you able to supply any more details about your planned build that would help differentiate your question (i.e. what scale are you aiming for, etc.)?

Im working on a monster truck /rock crawler

You may want to check Sariel's Wheels chart. This table contains all essential details like dimensions of the wheel and rim as well as weight and how rare they are.


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Can you identify these minifigures - sports, military and aliens
These have no marking on them. Does anyone know who made these and what set these are from?

The third figure is from a Best-lock Military set

I think the alien figures are from Make-It Blocks
a Dollartree brand

The first two definitely look like Oyo. The others are identified (with photographic evidence) by @Syberion as Best-Lock and Make-It Blocks.


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1x1 round plate with studs on both sides
I apologize for the poor picture quality, but can anyone identify this piece I found in my collection. It's a 1x1 round plate with studs on both sides. It looks similar to Wheel Center Small with Stub Axles (Pulley Wheel)
 but it's smaller.

Do the studs say Lego?

The studs are the open/hollow kind, so there's no trademark.

My best guess is what @Joost already answered.

It looks like the double stud part of a 4081b Plate, Modified 1 x 1 with Light Attachment - Thick Ring where the 1x1 plate part broke off.

It comes in a couple of metallic colors
Does your part has a break mark?

yes, there appears to be a bit of a nub where something was broken off.  So, I guess Ican't just buy these on bricklink, right?

Well, you can. But: some disassembly required.

I don't know the make, but I have one of these and there is no sign of a break mark so seems to have been made like this.
Could possibly be one of these Cobi 1X1 1/3 Duo parts:


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Sell bulk by colour or by part or by both
I have 100’s of pounds of semi sorted Lego, mostly by colour.
Would it be beneficial to sort by colour and part to sell in bulk? Or sell a bulk lot of one colour but various bricks?

It (obviously) depends on what people want to buy.
If someone wants to build something, and doesn't totally care what colors are used, then they'll want to buy categorized by shape. It's so much easier to find a red 2x4 in a bin of 2x4s than to find a red 2x4 in a bin of red pieces.
But if someone wants to build, say, Big Bird, then they'll just want yellow, and will want to buy categorized by color.
I think the former is much more common.
See also: Organizing your LEGO Bricks


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Question about Batmobile 76139 build
What's the purpose of the hinge plates in Step 133?

I ask because it got in the way when installing the side sections in Steps 222 and 231. I simply pushed it out of the way and everything was OK. However, I cannot see what it is used for in subsequent steps. I am worried I may have missed something and have to go back.

As far as I can tell from the instructions alone (available at this 197MiB PDF from LEGO support), the purpose of those particular hinge plates is to serve as bottom support of the 1x12 technic bricks introduced in step 214 (and its symmetrical counterpart in 223). Let me try to illustrate:

So when the subassembly from steps 214-221 is attached, things should look like...

(Idem for the symmetrical counterpart)
In other words: the 1x12 beam should be supported by three hinge plates: two at the top, and one at the bottom. The bottom one is introduced in step 133.

Aha - I now see - indeed, as I am not much further on, I could make that work ! It wasn't obvious to me at first as the element was quite secure on just two. Also, really tricky to get the lower one in exactly the right position for it to click on. I have managed it however - thanks so much Ivan !


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Old Lego duplo train not working on batteries
I've recovered my old lego duplo set from the attic, and tried to get the electric train working again. After inserting fully charged batteries, the train does start, but it's unable to pull even a single wagon.
I've also tried using Duracell batteries, but that gives the same result. I've already opened up the train and my dad says he can see a little crack in one of the gears, but the train still runs when using Hameg PS and even with the batteries.
Can I get this thing working again somehow?
Here is a video of the train with a single wagon
Edit
I tried hooking up power.
And at first it started to drive smoother, but after like 5 seconds it got to a halt again. When lifting the train, the wheels spin again, but when putting it down again it just stops. The wires are not in the way for sure.
Here is the video of the train wired to the power.
Currents are:

75 mA while driving
120 mA when stuck

Hi Pieterjan, and welcome to Bricks! Does it also fail to pull a wagon when using the Hameg PS as well? From the sound in that video, I'd hazard a guess that there's a an issue with the clutch mechanism - to reduce the chance of damaging either the motor or small train drivers fingers the wheels have a clutch mechanism to stop them turning if there's something blocking them. Have you seen this question on stripping down the drive wheels?

Hi, thanks for the response. I did try your suggestion, and updated the question.

Can you get a good look at the battery contacts? Corrosion (especially from leaked batteries) can cause a high resistance.  OTOH from the video, the motor is still turning, so it's getting power and we're looking for a mechanical fault.  If you turn it on upside down, do the wheels turn? How easy are they to stop with a finger, and does this stop the motor noise?

Thanks. Upside-down the wheels are able to turn but still with the clicking noise twice a second. Gently pushing against the wheels doesn't stop them from turning yet, but pushing slightly harder does block the wheels. The clicking noise still persists though

And I would consider buying a new train set, but that would render the special tracks useless. Although this is probably the only part that will not be usable...

In my case, the gear next to the slipping clutch was cracked. Since it is only pressed on, it can no longer transmit large forces and the slipping clutch slips in the wrong place.


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Is there any website or youtuber that can help me improve my building skills?
I joined the robotics team in my school and I find it really hard to cope with my friends when building. I need to improve my building skills before returning back to school.
Is there any website or youtuber that can help me improve my building skills?

Universal advise is to acquire experience by building more. Such way you encounter specific problems and it would be easier to know which problems/solutions you need to look for.

Does this answer your question? Is there a catalog of Lego building techniques?

I'm unsure if you are trying to improve your general building skills or specific ev3. In case you are looking for tutorials on general building techniques http://www.brickbuilt.org/?cat=77 has a list of some tutorials. This site also features pictures of creations other people have made.


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is it possible to change the controls in Lego Digital Designer?
I am wondering if it is possible to change the controls in LEGO Digital designer? Because I would like to change the "D" button on my keyboard to "rotate to the right" instead of "delete".
And I'm also having a little issue. I found a guy on the internet that's adding new parts to LEGO Digital designer but the only problem is my program is crashing sometimes when I load a baseplate that the guy added to the program. Is there a fix for the crashing? I think it is crashing because maybe it is too much for the program to handle.

I've edited your question a little, but it turns out you got TWO questions/issues here. It would be better if you stick to one issue per question. You can edit this question with other details relevant to your "button" issue and raise a new question for your "crashing LDD".

As a general piece of advice, AutoHotkey is able to remap virtually any key to any other one - regardless of the user application.


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Built part of LEGO set - reds and greys and blacks and a computer screen
Any ideas on what this is part of please? Thanks for your help as always.

FWIW it looks like you have parts from more than one set, judging by the two answers currently available. That 2x2 computer screen is shown as only existing in only one set, but that set doesn't have some of the other parts you've shown.

Thanks stackex community. That has solved my problems - we have the plane and parts of the tower from the superhero airport battle. Also, have all the star wars minifigs! It's very much appreciated. Cheers

After having a good look at sets with 2x2 dark red curved slopes, I'm certain that you have parts from Star Wars Battlefront set 75134-1 Galactic Empire Battle Pack, specificaly parts of the... I guess we could call this a "gun platform"?:

Note the top-right of the image: bley 1x2 printed tile, dark red 2x2 curved slopes, dark bley hinges.
(As @RSchulz has already pointed out, the 2x2 tile with clip and sticker comes from a different set.)

"Bley"? As a non-hardcore Lego person, is this a term other people would be familiar with? It shows up in Urban Dictionary, but nowhere else.

https://bricks.stackexchange.com/questions/238/what-is-the-bley-blay-color :-D

Part Road Sign 2 x 2 Square with Open O Clip with Computer Screen with White, Red and Black Lines Pattern (Sticker) only appears in set 76051 Super Hero Airport Battle.
But that set doesn't seem to have the red curved slope or the 1x2 printed tile from the first few images, so I'm guessing there's more than one set involved.

Good call on the 2x2 computer screen, since it's not present in the set in Ivan's answer!

I assume only because I got there first. I didn't realize the curved slopes were Dark Red, which would have saved me a lot of futile searching.

AFAIK Star Wars sets tend to use Dark Red so that's why I looked at those. And yes, I too become annoyed by Red vs Dark Red vs Reddish Brown vs Dark Brown.


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How does the LEGO Typewriter mechanism fit?
My wife is building the LEGO Typewriter set (21327). When she installs the gearbox mechanism at step 210, the whole thing jams when pressing the keys.
I am trying to help her and have "unbuilt" it back a few steps and checked everything in terms of being the right way round, etc.
The problem seems to go back to step 177 when a block assembly is placed. Up until then the large section installed at step 153 was free to move around an inch or so forward. After step 177 the new block installed severely restricts that movement. It is in the correct place from what I can see!
What might be causing this problem? How can I fix it?

The only thing I can think of is if the grey pieces from step 155 were set too far forward and they restrict the little arm's movements. Did you figure this out? Some photos might help

I have actually rebuilt it for her again and have the same issue. Looking online it looks like many with the same issue - possibly gearbox too tight but I have put it together 4 or 5 times and still the same. Looks to me like there is simply not enough weight in the wee arm to re-engage with the rotor arm to move the carriage on (too much friction). She has decided not to bother but just to complete the build for its looks rather than practicality. Thanks anyway.

Core Issue

When she installs the gearbox mechanism at step 210, the whole thing jams when pressing the keys.

The gearbox in question is this one completed in step 208:

Here it is fully installed after step 210:

The function of this assembly is to store energy in the springs at the bottom and use it to move the carriage over a small amount on each key press. This is accomplished via the 8 bladed propeller and bush at the top that are used to form an escapement. Each key press allows the propeller to rotate 1/8 of a turn, and this rotation allows a small lateral movement of the carriage.
There are several issues that could cause this to not work properly.
Complete Failure
If everything is jammed, the following behavior may be seen:

Keys can't be pressed
Keys can be pressed, but nothing happens

There are many issues that could cause this. There are two specific issues called out in the instructions as common sources of errors.
Be sure the propeller is installed the right way around in step 197:

Ensure that the escapement is built in the correct orientation in step 205:

Either of those issue will prevent the mechanism from working properly.
A general issue that may cause this to fail is simply building the gearbox or keys with too much friction. It is important not to install gears or bushes too tightly to prevent friction. I will typically push parts together as tight as they will go then back them off by a very small amount. There used to guidance on this in the instructions for Technic sets:

This doesn't always matter, but in an assembly like this where there are many connections and gravity is used to provide force to make everything work correctly, it is important not to add additional friction.
Typebar not Returning
If the typebar moves when a key is pressed, but never falls back down from hitting the page, then the core gearbox is likely working properly. This is especially true if the carriage moves as expected if the typebar is returned manually.
This could be due to excess friction in the gearbox as above. Another issue that I encountered was forgetting the half bush in step 152:

This prevents the keys from fully engaging with the escapement mechanism and limits its ability to return the typebar to its original position.
It's worth noting that the springs under the carriage are able to transfer some of their force back to the keys and typebar. The typebar is most likely to work properly when the carriage is in the rightmost position, and may have difficulty returning when the carriage is all the way to the left, as the escapement mechanism will no longer be transferring any energy back through the system.

Note on Restricted Movement After Step 177

The problem seems to go back to step 177 when a block assembly is placed. Up until then the large section installed at step 153 was free to move around an inch or so forward.

I want to clarify that this is the expected behavior. The following assembly is the one installed in step 153:

It has a lot of play until this assembly is installed in step 177:

Here it is after installation:

After that point, it has probably about a centimeter of play if installed correctly.

Thank you. Step 152 bushing helped


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What is this right angled piece with clip and how can it be used?
What element is this? What can it be used for?

The piece is 72869 Bar Holder with Clip and 90° Angle (Mechanical Leg)

It's a new part for 2021, and as the name implies, one of it's main uses is as a leg on various creatures. It seems especially well-suited for building spiders:

It hasn't had many other official uses to date, but it does get used as a robot of some kind in the Marvel advent calendar:

Stylistically, the part is very similar to 11090 Bar Holder with Clip

It's easy to imagine how bars could be used to integrate these parts together into larger structures.
In terms of size, the part is 2 modules in its longer dimension, and 1.5 modules in its shorter dimension:

There are of course many, many ways this piece could be used, but one that came to my mind was using it as part of wrought iron stair rail design. This works nicely, but we do have to use stairs with a tread depth of 1.5 modules to allow the railings to touch:

This part adds new flexibility to the bar and clip family, and I'm excited to see it get used more in the future.

Magnificent question and answer, I wish I could give more than 1 upvote each


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Identify part with handle, rod and loop
I have been trying to figure out this part for 2 days now,  using every descriptor I can think of. There is no visible part number, just the LEGO stamp and 2-01. Please help!

I can remember those were used in old sets I played with as a kid (back in the '90s), mostly as kind of "blasters" with a transparent piece attached to the pin or the 1-pin part.

It was used in 42 sets form 1996-2014.  About half of those seem to be in the 96-97 timeframe, fitting kopaka's memory.

That is the Space Scanner Tool 30035.

You are awesome, thank you!!!


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What parts are used in this unicorn from Lego Ideas?
I feel like I should be able to find all these pieces and here I am asking.
I am trying to gather a list of pieces to buy to build this model found on LEGO Ideas. It is this Unicorn with articulating legs and neck.
The problem is, I don't know how to articulate the words needed to find some of these pieces.
Let me share a modified screenshot of the current piece I'm stuck on.  However if you know the fire pieces on the neck, or want to just make my whole list I'd love that.
I also am not sure what pieces make up the joint between the legs and the body. They look kinda like this Technic 1 x 2 piece (85943) piece but it is at least 2 x 2, I think.
I also am not sure what pieces make up the neck joint to the body but in the pictures on the LEGO Ideas page, it looks like that it can move too.

The mane seems to be based on 64647 Minifgure Plume Feather Triple Compact in either trans-orange or trans-neon orange colour; each plume is mounted on a 85861 1 x 1 round plate wih open stud.
The hooves are 47458 1 x 2 x 2/3 Curved Slope Wing End.
The leg joints seem to be tow-ball joints. See parts 22890 1x2 plate with tow-ball, 14418 1x2 plate with tow-ball socket on end, and 14704 1x2 plate with tow-ball socket on side.

It looks like Technic, Brick Modified 2 x 2 with Ball Socket and Axle Hole is used to connect the legs to the body

I have recreated this to the best of my ability on bricklinks' "Studio+" app.  I will share it as soon as they allow it to be published.

https://www.bricklink.com/v3/studio/design.page?idModel=260209


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Help identifying minifigs and pieces of sets - purple character with grey horns and red eyes, cyborg type skull, astronauts light up with moving knees
I've got some doozies I've tried identifying. Please see photos but basically a purple guy with horns and yellow teeth, a cyborg type skull (could be a combo), astronauts with moving knees and wearing jetpack things which light up.
Also bonus round two random pieces - window with writing and a green tile with sticker of world and yellow box.
Take it a away and thanks in advance as always!

Two minifigures with light up are not LEGO items.

The knees really give it away.

I suspect the astronauts are from korean "oxford" brand, given the knees. See http://thebrickblogger.com/2017/11/extra-posable-minifigures-by-oxford/ .

Head and torso from purple minifigure belong to Zurg from Toy Story

Second minifigure is mixture of several minifgures.
Its head is Minifigure, Head Alien Skull with Red Eyes, Metal Eyebrows with Rivets and Metal Jaw with Screws Pattern - Hollow Stud that has been part of two skeletons.

Hair piece is Minifigure, Hair Short Tousled with Silver Robot Components and Eyepiece Pattern Left Side

Torso is Torso Ninjago with Red Wires and Mechanical Parts Pattern / Black Arm Left / Flat Silver Arm Right / Yellow Hand Left / Black Hand Right with its hand changed to Dark Bluish colored versions.

Both head piece and torso belong to Cyrus Borg (OverBorg) - Rebooted

Legs are Hips and Legs with Red Belt, Red Tassels and Silver Outlined Knee Pads Pattern

Additional parts are:
Glass for Window 1 x 4 x 3 - Opening with Computer Screen with Silver 'ULTRA INTEL' and Ultra Agents Logo Pattern
Tile 2 x 2 with Groove with Barcode and Box and Arrows and Globe on Green Background Pattern (Sticker) - Set 60101

Damn, you beat me to the ninjago minifig by half a minute :-D

The two Astronauts on the right are Laser Pegs figures
The white one is from Laser Pegs Mars Rocket

The blue one is from Laser Pegs Mission Control


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Identify these vintage-looking clone-brand minifigs
I have been given them with a lot of blocks from years back. The blocks have higher plates than Lego, and the underneath looks like Loc Blocs / Brix Blox / Kawada… but searching these brands doesn’t reveal any of these happy little people. They definitely have a vintage feel about them. Can anyone advise?

These minifigs seem to be similar to the ones in this other (unanswered) question.

Not sure if these can be called vintage. This is just how generic Chinese clone-brand figures look like.

Hi Christopher and welcome to Bricks.SE! Please take a look at the [tour] and the [help] pages to learn more about how this site operates, what can you expect and what is expected of you in return. Have a nice day - don't forget to respond to comments and rate and mark any helpful answers. Have a nice stay!

The plastic is much softer than the usual ABS… I think it’s more like the stuff the Lego plants and trees are made from…

And the linked "unanswered" question has answers, just none that have been accepted as THE answer.  The answers there actually seem to cover most of what you're asking about.


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Which websites can be used to trade minifigures?
Are there any reliable websites that do minifigure trading? I had a look around but couldn’t find much at all.

Hi Morgan and welcome to Bricks.SE! Please take a look at the [tour] and the [help] pages to learn more about how this site operates, what can you expect and what is expected of you in return. Have a nice day - don't forget to respond to comments and rate and mark any helpful answers. Have a nice stay!

There is a site for explicitly this purpose, called aptly swapfig.com.
It works by connecting other users either via a wanted or an offered ad, and if the other party accepts the trade you have to exchange postal info and send the minifigure. When the minifigure is received you have to check a box in the trade process page and you can leave a comment. Same if the item is never received. Like Bricklink, building a good reputation is necessary if you want to be trusted in making exchanges.

Or if by trading, you mean buying and selling, then there are many suitable websites:

brickscout.com
brickowl.com
bricklink.com
ebay.com
catawiki.com

Here you can sell any minifigures you have and use the revenue to buy others, all the while enjoying the benefits (buyer and seller protection, market share, infrastructure) of an established site. Using these sites might not be straightforward for the first time, so be sure to read up on their own rules and customs, or ask around to learn what you must/should/could (not) do on them.
If, however, you mean "trading" rather as swapping, without involving money, be mindful that there can be huge differences in the value of a minifigure. Depending on age, condition, accessories, rarity and of course desirability, there can be a price range from under a dollar to hundreds of dollars for a single minifigure.

I was originally talking about swapping but, trading in say Ebay isn’t a bad idea either.

https://swapfig.com/

@Hugo That sounds like an upvote-worthy answer to me, care to make it into one? Or should I just add it to the list in mine with proper attribution to you?

@zovits You can just add it to your list so all the relevant informations are in the same answer ;)

@Hugo Thank you, I have incorporated your comment into the answer. If you have any experience with the platform, please share your opinion about it, as at the moment I have more questions than answers to its operating principles, methods and overall usefulness.

@zovits Honestly I haven't used this website before. I was looking for a website called minifigure swap as I have used this one in the past but unfortunattly it has shut down. I stumbled on swapfig.com while looking for the other one. If the concept is the same this mean you can create a list of figs you want to trade and a list of figs you're looking for. Once it's done you can search for potential trade and you'll see the people that match your search/offer. You can then propose an exchange. The other person as the possibility to accept or refuse the trade.

If he accept you have to exchange postal info and send the fig. When the fig is received you have to check a box in the trade process page and you can leave a comment. Same if the fig is never received. Like Bricklink, building a good reputation is necessary if you want to be trusted in making exchanges. Concerning the FAQ on their website, I noticed you can see the answer if you open the question in another tab.

@Hugo Thanks, I have added your remark to the answer. Since now you have contributed more to it than I did, I converted it to a community wiki to avoid unfairly profiting from your contributions.

@zovits Thanks a lot but I really don't mind about the points and stuff :) You can take them ;)

@Hugo I'm not doing it for the points either, and with a CW nobody gets points anyway :) Meanwhile it's simultaneously encouraging anyone to amend the list in the future - as these services are expected to come and go, like you have experienced.


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How to remove round tiles easily from a plate
I have made a road  for a medieval style MOC by putting 1x1 tile, 1x1 round tile and 1x1 round plate on plates of varying sizes.

When I want to remove the round tile from a stud not on any outer edges of a plate, I'm having a very hard time doing so. When trying to use a brick separator for it, I sometimes even damage the brick separator instead of removing the round tile. Does anyone have any tricks how to remove round tiles easily from a plate?
Edit: I'm trying to find a way to remove the round tiles from a plate when the round tile is not located on any stud on any of the sides of the plate. For the square tile I'm able to do so with my finger nails and the round plate is easy with a brick separator. Unfortunately I haven't yet found any good way of doing this to a round tile and it has no studs to attach a brick separator to and no corners to put your finger nails under. I have created a simple drawing to illustrate what I want to do. I'm looking for a way to remove a round plate from any of the studs marked in red on my drawing and doing so without damaging myself or any of the parts.

If I'm correctly understanding your issue - you are trying to remove tiles by utilizing anything but a groove? Why?

Oh, and brick separator is made of softer plastic and is supposed to be damaged first, in case of using too much force, before any LEGO elements take damage.

I have edited my question to hopefully make it clearer

After some searching on other lego related sites on the internet I found the useful suggestion to use a brick separator upside down. I have tested this and it is indeed much easier to do it this way if you have enough space to do so.

Modern tiles have grooves at the very bottom, which were designed specifically for the ease of removal. Here is an example how you can remove tiles from inside the plate (taken from one of recent mosaic set's instruction):

Even though picture shows variation of classic orange, which is narrower than pictured above, same technique applies to both.
LEGO has even got a dedicated webpage for Classic Brick Separator (wide, black version is called "Art" and has its own page as well). It contains example seen below. Although, I have never experienced parts flying like that during such disassembly.

In addition to brick separators, recent Art sets have come with a crowbar piece, apparently intended to make removal of individual circular tiles easier:

I haven't tried it myself, but it should be easier to maneuver between pieces than a whole brick separator.

I have kits for repair work on electronics, and have used the spudgers and plastic pry bars for Legos in tight spots. The kits are usually pretty cheap. Here’s an example: https://www.ifixit.com/Store/Tools/Prying-and-Opening-Tool-Assortment/IF145-364?o=1
I like them because they’re durable but usually softer than anything I might use them on (so they don’t mar).


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Need help with a vintage LEGO set
I got an old LEGO set recently, I have included a Google image as the one I have is packed away in plastic. Does anyone know the name and history behind it? And if this valuable?

It seems like this is some variation of #700 set from Town Plan (Bricklink / Brickset). I don't know too much about them, but I read somewhere there were some differences between same numbered sets depending in which market these sets were sold. Mostly package printing (different languages), but could also be (I might be wrong here) the plant producing these sets.
Gary Istok (aka LEGO Historian on Eurobricks) is known to dig into very old LEGO stuff. If you'd like to know or read more about sets of that area I can suggest to look into buying Gary's "The Unofficial LEGO Sets/Parts Collectors Guide". You can look through Gary's topics on Eurobricks to have an idea what you can expect to find in his guide. Example.
Note. I am in no way affiliated with Gary Istok. Just sharing my knowledge where you could find more information.

And those boxes were hand-packed.

Thank you so much for your response! You are so so helpful, thank you for the guidance.

I cannot believe these were handpacked! How times have changed.

[I'm going with Alex's identification here of set 700.1-2 "Gift Package".]
This is a very vintage set in LEGO land.  Twice as many people want it on brickset as have it.  There aren't many reviews of this set out there.  There is this
this youtube that gives you a run-through of the contents.
I would say it is valuable.  There are two of these
for sale on bricklink and they're currently priced at $244 and $408.  Because there are so few that have ever sold there is no price history, but there seem to folks interested in having it.

Ahhh I seem that is super helpful. I had a super hard time identifying it and finding some information on it. Really appreciate your help!


text:
EV3 brick unable to connect to EV3 Classroom v1.5 app
From Google Translate:
My EV3 brick cannot connect to the EV3 classroom version 1.5 application, nor by cable, bluetooth or wifi. I haven't found a way to update the EV3 Brick from this app. How can I fix this problem? Thank you.

Original text:

Ma brique EV3 ne peut pas se connecter à l'application EV3 classroom
version 1.5, ni par câble, bluetooth ou wifi. Je n'ai pas trouvé le
moyen de faire la mise à jour de la brique EV3 à partir de cette
application. Comment je peux régler ce problème? Merci.

Welcome to Bricks.SE! Here we use English as primary language for communication, so I have edited your questions to help others understand it and have an option to help you out.

What operating system and version are you using?


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Caterpillar D11 (set 42131). Control+ app doesn't seem to work
I just finished my build of the Caterpillar bulldozer D11 (set 42131) and I'm NOT able to operate it with the Control+ app on my iPhone.
First the calibrate process begins:

Step 1 in that is to move the scoop up and down, but instead the plough moves.
Step 2 is supposed to change the angle of the scoop, but nothing happens at all. The Control+ app just keeps playing that engine noise and absolutely nothing happens for minutes until I kill the app.

That is all. Without getting through calibration the model can't be operated.
Obviously I could have wired the 4 motors to the wrong sockets on the control box, but I'm absolutely certain I followed the instructions in the book correctly.
I double and triple checked at that point in the build as I found the pictures in the book not very clear at first. I'm VERY certain I got that right.
Even if I did get the motors mixed up I still expect to see some movement when trying to calibrate. But movement on the wrong parts.
Is there a known issue with the Control+ app for this set? (It works fine, using the same iPhone, with the 42100 Liebherr 9800 excavator set.)
Or do I really have to take the entire thing apart again to get at the wiring? It is really buried deep inside the model so that would be a real pain.

I don't want to say you should have another look at your wiring, but the fact that Step 1 is operating different set of motors than expected there is high chance wrong port might have been used on PUP Hub.

@alex I really can't see how I would have made any mistakes. The instructions on step 178/179 (main pictures) are not immediately obvious which port on the hub is B and which one D (I find the embossed lettering on the hub impossible to read when it is build inside the model), but the insert detail pic on step 179 makes it very clear. Step 198 even makes it more clear with the top-side view. I have to admin I didn't do a test-run at that point, because my phone battery was empty.

I went through instructions to understand how this thing works. I think issue isn't related to cabling (it would be much easier to fix) but to gearbox. There are several places that could get things wrong if not paid much attention and assembled incorrectly and I can see why it needs calibration. It seems that assembled model's default setup is to control plough indeed, which fit your description. But don't have any suggestions what needs fixing, apart from checking each and every tan colored 12T gear, to confirm if their position is correct. Mismatch would result in not operating function.

Check steps 117 and 120 if you have assembled correctly. The thing is that one of two pictured motors switch between functions and the other operate functions. Your issue seem to be related to the switching between functions, not its operation. Position model in such a way that you could observe what is going on with orange 2L beam placed in step 117 and try calibration again. As far as I understand "switch" motor has to turn this beam 90 degrees up (from pictured position) to enable 1st function (that is the blade). 180 degree (opposite dirtection from pic.) for 2nd function.

@Alex I spend an hour last night pouring over the instructions and I came to the same conclusion. It seems that clutch system is more likely the cause of the problem than the wiring. I'll try to reverse the assembly into the various sub-module stages all the way back to stage 2 this weekend. It would at least save me from having to rebuild every sub-module. Only undo/redo the parts that provide the connections between the modules or build on top of them.

@Alex If you would care to convert your last comment into an answer I will accept it. You were spot on. I disassembled back until step 120 and then found that the positioning of the 2L was 90 degrees off. I must have accidentally turned it during the initial assembly.

Converting my last comments into an answer.
I went through the instructions to understand how this thing works. I think your issue isn't related to cabling (it would be much easier to fix) but there is something wrong inside the gearbox. There are several places that could get things wrong if enough attention has not been paid and it was assembled incorrectly. And I can see why it needs calibration. It seems to me that assembled model's default setup is to control the plough indeed, which fits your description.
Check steps 117 and 120 if you have assembled correctly. The thing is that one of the two pictured motors switch between functions and the other motor operates functions. Your issue seems to be related to the switching between functions, not its operation. Position the model in such a way that you can observe what is going on with orange 2L beam placed in step 117 and try calibration again. As far as I understand the "switch" motor has to turn this beam 90 degrees up (from pictured position) to enable 1st function (that is the blade); 180 degree (opposite direction from pic) for 2nd function.

I had the same problem as you and solved it. For me, the error is in step 87. I had mounted the orange part in the wrong side and it jammed the whole system from turning right.

Hope this is useful to you!

Welcome to Bricks.SE! Thanks for sharing your solution.

This was my mistake too. Thanks


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What does "all wheel drive" actually mean in the Land Rover Defender set?
The Land Rover Defender is described by LEGO as "all wheel drive".
There is no motor directly attached to power the wheels. The set cannot move unless we pull it by hand.
So, what does "all wheel drive" mean?
What about other sets like Jeep Wrangler, Monster Jam Grave Digger, Ford Raptor or Off Road Buggy? How can we describe their drive system?

Related - "All wheel drive" is a relatively modern design, where computers dynamically control how much power is sent to the front/rear axles.  A modern AWD car like a Subaru will send almost all of its drive to the front wheels when simply travelling straight at speed.  "4 wheel drive" is something else, where all four wheels get drive, and if one looses traction can strand the whole vehicle, unless there are locking differentials or one gets a tow.    A traditional series landrover has 4WD, a defender may have AWD depending on its age.

The "all wheel drive" phrase is used to represent a fact the model has a real life-like feature, I guess. Yes, it may not have the motor to provide the power to the wheels. But it has the differentials which are present in real vehicle's transmission, that work the same way real system does. Newest 4x4 Mercedes-Benz Zetros Trial Truck (42129) set has even got a lockable differential. Yes, it is bulky and may not be an exact copy of real-life solution, but it represent the existing feature.
This is also similar to a "motor" function (the one with moving pistons) we have in lots of Technic sets. In LEGO implementation it is working backwards - you need to push the model for the motor to "work". However, this assembly does represent the real-life relationship and connection between motor, gearbox (if one exist) and wheels.

This. If you hand-crank the geared assembly at the back of the model, all 4 wheels rotate.

And if you don't read the instructions carefully and put the differential in back-to-front then the wheels turn in opposite directions and you can't push it along the ground.

Alex has given a great answer to your "what does "all wheel drive" means?" question, I'll attempt to answer the next one:

What about other sets like Jeep Wrangler, Monster Jam Grave Digger, Ford Raptor or Off Road Buggy? What can we describe their drive system?

The 42118 Monster Jam Grave Digger and 42124 Off Road Buggy don't claim to have all-wheel drive, at least I can't see this or any similar phrase in their official description. Both have different mechanisms driving their rear wheels though.
The 42122 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon says it's 4x4 ("own a high-performance 4X4") but it has no engine, and the wheels aren't connected to anything, floating freely. I can only assume the 4x4 designation was insisted upon the marketing people of Jeep, as it has the same "drive" as the 5532 Fire Car (i.e. none):

I hope nobody would seriously consider this model AWD :)
The 42126 Ford F-150 Raptor has only its rear wheels "driven" (connected to the engine), so the proper designation would be RWD (rear wheel driven).
The 42110 Land Rover Defender is described as having "working All Wheel Drive", which is an apt designation here, as all wheels are connected to the engine (by the help of three differentials and a gearbox, which are only tangentially relevant to the question).

I just got this response from LEGO on my question - what all wheel drive means on LEGO Land Rover Defender.
"It means that the 4 wheels in this set are able to move around, as we do have some car / truck products that wheels are fixed (mostly due to for display) the wheels aren't able to move around. However, for set LEGO® Technic™ Land Rover Defender 42110  wheels are able to move freely."
There is no mention of connected to motors or implementing differentials.  As long as all the wheels can freely move, the set can be said all wheel drive, right?

You can certainly say what you want, but human communication depends on two parties having the same understanding of the concepts being used. Since pretty much everybody considers "all wheel drive" to refer to something distinct from my Fire Car example (as apparent from the responses both here and on your Facebook post), by insisting on using the non-standard interpretation, deliberate difficulties are introduced into the conversation. If you asked your question with the intent to learn and clear up the confusion, then do so. I understand your position, but the language usage is clear here.

I am not insisting on using non-standard interpretation, but more for having a common terms that all will understand. Anyway, as some say, there is always 2 sides of a coin.  For sake of discussion, my reference on using the term is from LEGO itself. Without a clear guideline from LEGO, this matter IMHO is a grey area.

The 'real' Land Rover Defender comes standard with 'permanent All Wheel Drive'.

Permanent All Wheel Drive is standard on Land Rover Defender except for those fitted with new D200, D250 and D300 6-cylinder Diesel engines.

Those LEGO sets try to make the set work as realistically as possible. Without engine, of-course, but the rest works as much the same as possible. Because it's such a key feature in this car, they made it a key feature in the set. That's why they used those exact words, they came straight from Land Rover.
What it means effectively is how the gearbox is put together. The set has a seriously complicated gearbox which is talked about in this YouTube video. You can find lots of pictures on the build and the gearbox in the Brickset review.


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Millenium Falcon 75192 Disassembled Storage
I recently bought the Millenium Falcon 75192 and built it. I would now like to take it apart and store it. I don't have a LEGO collection, and would like to store it in a way that I won't have to dig for pieces for hours when I want to build the set again.
What would be the most compact and best organised way of storing this set disassembled?

I doubt disassembly will save much space? It looks pretty densely built to me. Can’t you just put it in a box with plenty of packing materials?

I don't have a big place that would fit the Falcon, I do have cupboards that can fit smaller boxes.

The 75192 Millenium Falcon has 7513 Parts (as I'm sure you know) and so you're going to need to a lot of space to be able to store it.  While there are lots of great databases for LEGO parts and sets there isn't anybody who organized parts lists based on the bags in the instructions.  So you're going to be dealing with all of the parts from all of the bags during disassembly and when you get back to reassembly.  Given all of that, I would take it apart gradually and as I went I'd:

Sort the parts by color and shape.  It is good to have lots of plastic bins or cutlery trays to keep it sorted.
Bag up the minifigs.  They're mostly unique and you might as well keep them assembled in a bag instead of risking losing some of the parts.
Bag up the parts.  You will need ziplock or clear plastic bags in different sizes.  In some cases you will have so many of one part in one color that it is easy to just put it all in one bag.  In other cases you will have only a few and so you might put all of the different colors of one part in a bag.  Or you might put all of the bricks in one bag to save bags if there aren't many different bricks.
Consider printing out the part list from bricklink and verify that you aren't missing any parts.
Box up the bags and label the box.

I've had great luck with getting all sorts of different sized ziplock backs from Amazon or Uline.  One thing to keep in mind is that you don't need them to be air-tight or water-tight.  Using a hole-punch to make a hole in the plastic bag will allow air to go in and out and so it doesn't form a balloon in your box.

"Using a hole-punch to make a hole in the plastic bag will allow air to go in and out and so it doesn't form a balloon in your box." Or you can just leave one bit of its zip open while you squeeze the air out before sealing it.

I would think a pinhole would be safer for making sure really small parts don't disappear (like 1x1 round tiles, or light saber blades).

The most compact way would be to disassemble the set only partially, to eliminate all empty volume but keep the parts connected, as a bunch of loose parts take up more volume as the same parts assembled. Sure, that way you will either miss out on the whole building process of will have to start by completely disassembling everything the next time.
Or if you have a LOT of time: to pick everything apart, sort the pieces, then connect the similar pieces into solid blocks for compact storage:

First of all, sort by form or size, not color. You can sort by color, but it is only suitable if you have large amount of exactly same part (no variations) and can keep them together or if they are all different in size but quite large. Otherwise, it will be a nightmare to search for that one small part in a stack of same colored elements.
Although, I have not disassembled sets with this much parts, but my largest Technic sets are being diassembled into 5 portions. I have never had a problem assembling them back.
Here it works for me:

First portion contains all smallest bits: all Technic pins and anything else shorter than 3 studs;
Next portion is dedicated for parts about up to 5-6 studs long (depends on set's content);
Then I collect something about up to 9-10 studs long;
Everything larger or bulk goes into here;
Any delicate, minifigs, larger Trans-* colored, printed or stickered elements no matter what size they are go here. Some may then be packaged individually.

I would then advise storing each portion in ziplock bags. One or another portion could be quite big and won't fit into one ziplock, so just split them. If you used size as as sorting method you won't even need to label ziplock bags as it will be easy to distinguish just by looking at the size of packaged elements.

Definitely recommend organizing by type and not worrying about color.  For same size plates, offset stacking is a great idea.  I just finished disassembling 75192 UCS Millennium Falcon.  I picked up four tray organizers to help with the sorting.  I originally set out to back-bag the whole thing, starting with bag 17, but that approach is very difficult.  Now that I have some general organization, I plan to start bagging everything up, beginning with bag one.  This would be much easier if I had an inventory of each bag.  I wish someone smarter than me would get that website going.  I would contribute!  If I can easily generate a spreadsheet for 75192 of inventory by bag, I'll try to post it to Bricklink or somewhere.

That was my exact thought, an inventory of each bag would be helpful. I've looked around online but haven't found anything. Would you share any images of how you've ended up storing the entire set? I still have the Falcon laying around at home and want to start disassembling when I finally have some free time again!


text:
How can find which Duplo sets, featuring car base, are currently sold in France?
My son have been playing a lot with my old LEGO at his grandma's, and I would like to buy him some to play at home.
I have tried to figure this out on my own, but I am stuck :(
I have read inside the vehicle the part number, 2312, and found it on Brinklink. It looks like it is retired, but the same mould tool got me to part 11248 which looks current.
It is in a decent number of sets, and I tried to find a few on the Internet, but it looks like they are retired. (Besides the obvious animal train, released this year)
How can I figure out, in the set list which are sold, in France, today, without checking one by one?

If you're interested in other car bases, there's also this one that comes in a bunch of recent sets, and some of them have a nice vehicle/plane top too: https://www.bricklink.com/catalogItemIn.asp?P=12591c05&in=S

Life cycle of a set from standard/general LEGO themes is, usually, 2 years. There are exceptions of course, where availability could be shorter or longer, but usually it stays within that time period. Some toy shops could have these sets for an extended period of time, while supply lasts.
It isn't easy to find which sets are available for sale using Bricklink, since it has so many Duplo Car Bases. So it would be much easier to check which Duplo sets are available for sale at official LEGO online store.
Currently, following Duplo sets feature car bases:

Mickey & Minnie Birthday Train (10941)
Animal Train (10955)
Number Train - Learn To Count (10594)
Unicorn (10953)


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Where should the 76139 Batmobile roof pins land?
Lego Batmobile 76139.
Could someone please advise whether the pins installed in step 445 should rest on top of or just in front of the stanchions installed in step 417 ?

Caveat: I don't have this set, so am just looking at the instructions.
It looks like the pins should rest alongside the Axle 1L with Pin 3L you pushed into place on step 294:

You can possibly see that a bit clearer on step 447:

They should therefore rest just in front of the two SNOT assembles you added in step 417.
That's also borne out if you count 12 studs from where the Axle and Pin connector sits when lowered - the end of the 12L axle comes to the just behind the pin mentioned in step 294.

Thank you so much - I thought I was right but just wanted confirmation before moving on :)


text:
Can anyone identify this set or sets - printed tile with a wooden path, lots of browns and tans and oranges
Can someone help me identify this set that I found at a consignment shop? It has some unique pieces and all of the bags were sealed (I opened two bags to get out a couple bricks for pictures). I have been scouring the Lego website and can't seem to locate the set. It could be missing bags, but I have quite a collection and want to make this mystery set.

Welcome to Bricks.SE.  Thanks for the good pictures.  Good pictures make the identification job much more practical.

Both sets are from 2014, which is why you couldn't find them on LEGO website.
Elements included in first picture and first three polybags on second picture are from Battle Towers (21205) set.

Identified by unique modified printed tile.
The rest looks like it comes from Forest Animals (31019)

Identified by round 2x2 tile with eye pattern together with round slope in Lime color, Red slope and Yellow bits.

"Both sets are from 2014, which is why you couldn't find them on LEGO website." - what's the connection between the year 2014 and not finding stuff on the LEGO website?

@user2357112supportsMonica LEGO.com only list sets they currently have for sale, recently sold out and the ones that have been announced, but yet to be sold. Since usual lifetime of LEGO sets is 2 years it is natural that these sets from 2014 are no longer listed for sale, thus "couldn't be found" on website. Support page (service.lego.com) is unaffected and provides instructions for sets above.

Wow! Thank you so much. We will start building right away :-)


text:
Live axle + steering
Does anyone know how to make a live front axle (steered, driven, beam axle, preferably with a panhard rod) in a relatively small space, I can't figure it out.
This is my rear axle for guidance:

Most things are OK to change except for: suspension mounting points (one stud inwards IS possible), track width, and wheel size.
I appreciate any help, doesn't need to be a finished product, just an idea would go a long way too.

I could suggest looking at suspension in RM8's Land Cruiser (FJ40) model. Although all description is in Russian that webpage contains sufficient number of pictures, which are self-explanatory. This model has even got free instructions.
From what I see, both yours and RM8 model's suspension are 11L wide so it could be adapted or pose as an inspiration to figure out your own, unique setup.


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"Heads up! Could not open project" error message in EV3 software
Whenever we try to edit one of our old projects our EV3 Mindstorms Home software shows us the "Heads up! Could not open project" screen. What should we do?
I am on the Mac OS Big Sur 11.2.3 version.

Can you share the program file?

@DavidLechner: Unfortunately we cannot share the program file through here but is there any way that you know that we can share it to you?

@DavidLechner: We were able to edit the post of with a picture of the code, still unable to share a file though. Hope this helps! Thanks!

How did you get a screenshot if the file will not open? Could you use a file-sharing app like DropBox/OneDrive/GoogleDrive to share the file?


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How can I build a Lego slope of this exact angle with ideally only legal techniques?
I'm currently building a functional Lego escalator that is minifigure-scaled and with staircases transitioning from flat platform to stairwell. Here's my progress so far:

But with the design of the staircases hopefully out of the way for now, I've come into an issue with the slope as it is seemingly improbable to build. I tried multiple iterations: technic bricks, technic beams, snot, … but there's only so much I can do on Mecabricks. I don't have the necessary bricks available at my disposal, nor does my local area has any retails which offers the Pick-a-Brick service, therefore I couldn't physically test this build out.
Is there any way of building a framework for this slope to hold up at a precise angle of 39.5 degrees? Preferably one that is legal or at least doesn't cause immense stress on the bricks, due to the technical nature of this build?
EDIT:
Extra images for elaboration:

I aim to have this escalator to be roughly 4 bricks in width and its height will be dependent on how tall a story might be (probably 9 bricks tall).
I don't intend to use the new dedicated escalator piece because I want to design an escalator that is flat at the base and transition into a moving stairwell then back into a flat platform at the top (and vice versa). Basically something of this complexity , but at a minifigure scale.
EDIT 2:
These are the results I yielded when I tried hinge pieces for building a slope:

Connector peg with plate 1x2 with pinhole on bottom or any other hinge designs yield the same results. Maybe it could work but since I don't have local access to Bricklink and the likes, I couldn't physically test this out and have only Mecabricks to work with.

Welcome to Bricks.SE! I'm not quite sure what is your actual issue here. Do you need help finding a way to build a structure with specific angle? Specific length/width/height? It would also be nice if you added isometric picture (I have initially thought of your assembly in a different way, but now I see how it is put together).

Have you also considered dedicated piece for building escalator: https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=69900

@Alex I've answered your questions in the newly added EDIT section.

Have you considered the hinge elements? The 1x2 Top Plate (also available as a 2x2) and the 1x2 Hinge Base can usually be used to provide many angles up to 90 assuming you're happy to rest the bottom somewhere.

@Zhaph-BenDuguid I've used it but there were misalignment issues. Please see EDIT 2 for further elaboration.

Yeah, that's what I meant about having it "rest at the bottom" - you probably can't have one at the top and the bottom like that, only one at the top.

@Zhaph-BenDuguid Given that I've only got a virtual builder to work with, I'm not sure of the structural integrity of having it "rest at the bottom".

What if you use Erling/headlamp brick instead of bracket on top? This might bring your bottom right between studs for jumper plate.

@Alex Same results with brackets, they won't align.

I've included the degree of my slope, which is 39.5. This information is also now included in the parent post for newcomers.

The angle 39,5 degrees seems close but not correct. The bar centers are vertically offsetted by two plates and horizontally by one brick. One brick is 2.5 plates, so the slope is 4/5. Atan(4/5) gives 38.6598083 degrees...

and (@MichaelVerschaeve) a ratio like 4:5 should be quite doable with Technic beams  (that was the closest I could get to the stated 39.5° based on doing the trigonometry and assuming a right angled triangle). Technic beams and a non-right-angled triangle should be able to do it, but I don't have time for the mathematical trail and error (we can't simply solve for it as the only other assumed constraint is that every length is a small integer)

@Chris, you are mistaken... in an integer sided triangle, the cosine of any angle is rational because of the cosine rule. However, we can calculate the cosine for our desired angle from the given tangent 4/5 and it clearly is not rational (its sqrt(25/41))

@MichaelVerschaeve good point.  I haven't used the cosine rule in 20+ years, and I assumed (without realising) it that the 3rd side could be any length. Of course there are ways to do that but they're not as rigid.  I may still post an answer based on that method using ancient Technic.  If we want it to be rigid it becomes a matter of finding the closest possible angle anyway

@ DuyVuongQuang - @Zhaph-BenDuguid's suggestion might also work with resting the vertical column in your last 2 pictures on a tile.  Scaling off the picture the angle would get very close, probably close enough (you won't notice half a degree, probably not 1-2°)

Update:
Now that I have stud.io installed, I've finally got an upright design for the slope's framework as follows:

This design was based off of @Hugo 's suggestion, but modified to use Technic pegs and Technic bricks for better stability.

Could this work in you case? Using snot brick to build it vertically.

EDIT 1:
The only way I managed to get your angle and snap it correctly is like that.
I used stud.io with collision turned on to be sure it could work.
I hope this can help you.

EDIT 2:
I found another solution using bar and bar with clip. This one is much more modulable but maybe less stable. Let me know what you think.

EDIT 3:
Adapted to use technic beam.

I don't think this could work. Do note that my slope is not at a 45 degree angle, and I very much want to make sure the slope is at the precise angle I've tested with so that the stairs remain leveled.

Do you know the exact angle you're looking for?

According to Mecabricks, a 39.5 degree incline.

Could you try the first iteration again, but with connector pegs and Technic beams?

Do you want the technic beams to replace the tiles?

Exactly so. I tried it myself on Mecabricks but it didn't go so well, and I can't download Stud.io anytime soon for personal hardware issues.

How do you want the orientation of the beams? Holes on top (meaning the steps will slide on the holes) or holes on the side?

On the side would be preferable, thanks.


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How can I build the windows depicted in this image?
I am trying to figure out the building technique used in these windows. Does anybody know how to achieve those? Unfortunately I do not have pictures of the lower part.
Edit: I only want it to look good from one side and it is just about the windows encircled by the red marking.

Welcome to Bricks.SE! There's a lot of stuff going on in this assembly. Some elements, looks like, are not attached to anything and kept by friction. Can you tell if you are looking for solution just for a window or decorations around it as well? Does it have to look pretty from the inside?

No, it only has to look good from the outside and I want only the windows

It's difficult to tell from the photos exactly how this was done, but here's a window design that is pretty close:

Here's how that's put together:

It should be possible to adapt that rough design to fit in other MOCs.

Edit.
I came up with better idea how it can still look pretty in the front and a little ugly on the inside, but now have most of the window attached.
No changes at the front:

However this is how it looks now at the back:

Exploded view:

Original suggestion:
Another option, which I don't like too much since it relies on friction, with some elements not being attached to anything. However it is easier to integrate in a wall of a building.

Exploded view:

And as you can see the main part of the window is not attached to any studs. In such case it can be built to be pretty on both sides. And if not deliberately pushed, window will stay in place.


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Bagged Set Identification from 2011 - 3 bags somewhat separated into color themes (blue/green, white/brown, pink/yellow/orange)

I managed to score some (partial) Lego sets still in the bags. All the bags are marked 2011, but I'm struggling to ID them after leafing through 24 pages of 2011 Lego sets on Brickset. The left bag has "135149" on it, but nothing in the search results seems to match the colors. The colors in the right and left bag, plus the flowers/florals, look like maybe they came from Lego Friends series? None of the Lego Friends sets I saw seemed to fit. The middle set I'm even more lost on. The arches, doors, and gray ribbed pieces make it seem like it could be part of a building set.

The year and number on the bag refer to the bag itself, not the set it was used for, so the only thing they can be used for is setting a lower bound on when the set was made (they can't have put parts in a bag that wasn't designed until later).

Looks like 10692 Creative Bricks
Justification addendum:
The first picture has a blue 2x10 plate. It's not that unique (113 sets on BrickLink). There's also a 6x12 plate which I initially thought was green, but it seems not to be, as no set on BrickLink has both those pieces. But if it's bright green, there are 3 matches. I can't at all be certain of the color of the 6x6 round plate by looking at it, but when I cross-reference BrickLink for sets that have

at least 1 of Blue 2x10 plate
at least 1 of Bright Green 6x12 plate
at least 1 of 6x6 round plate with hole (in any color)

there is only this set.

Can you add some detail as to Why you think it is this set? That might be helpful to others learning how to identify sets from just bags.

@PhilB. The fact that the parts seem to be color-sorted into the 3 bags suggests this is not a set for building  a specific model, where the parts are usually bagged corresponding to the building sequence.

The inclusion of a brick separator seems unusual to me too, also hinting at a creative set rather than a specific model


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Looking for LEGO parts in a different color
I was wondering if you could assist me in my search for clone-brand bricks Technic parts.
I am in need of the following:

Design Number
Wanted Color
Description
Quantity

71685
Earth Blue
Panel 2 x 3 x 1, No. 1
1 piece

42545
Earth Blue
Shell 5 x 13 x 2 with 4.85 Hole, No. 1
4

71709
Earth Blue
Flat Panel 3 x 7, No. 1
4 pieces

93606
Earth Blue
Brick with Bow 2 x 4
2 pieces

40490
Earth Blue
Technic 9M Beam
12 pieces

42195
Earth Blue
Cross Axle Extension 3M
2 pieces

42128
Earth Blue
Angle Element 157.5 Degrees 7
2 pieces

59443
Earth Blue
Cross Axle Extension 2M
4 pieces

65487
Earth Blue
Single Bush(ing) 2M Diameter 4.9
4 pieces

85984
Transparent (Clear) Red
Roof Tile 1 x 2 x 2/3, ABS
6 pieces

A fellow LEGO Technic Builder on “Bricklink” directed me to you. He suggested that you might have the parts in the color that I need hopefully this is so. I have tried LEGO, BrickLink, BrickOwl, BrickSet to locate the above parts in the LEGO Earth Blue color and the roof tile in transparent red (I do not think anyone makes this part in transparent red.)

Welcome to Bricks.SE! Here we are trying our best to answer questions like yours, however we are not communicating outside website (thus no emails) or trading bricks, so I have removed last section of your question.

I've linked your parts to Rebrickable for elements I could identify. Rebrickable (as well Bricklink) is using so-called "community" naming for LEGO elements, which often has a better description and is less confusing than LEGO naming.

Did you mean 71682 (aka:  Panel 2 x 3 x 1) rather than 71685 (which does not appear to exist)?

Hi Howard, and welcome to Bricks :) To be clear we are purely a question and answer site, and don't stock, sell or manufacture elements. I think you also need to search for "Dark Blue" as that appears to be the colour most other sites use for LEGO's "Earth Blue".

A number of those elements are available from webrick.com, you can upload a list to match with their inventory - remember to search for colour Dark Blue - 140, as that's what most sites call LEGO's Earth Blue.


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Who can make a custom made LEGO 777 airplane?
I work in an advertisement agency and our client wants to make a LEGO custom made airplane branded with their branding to be given to their offices. Is there anyone who can make the instructions and what parts should we order and we will build them ourselves?

We don't do communication outside this site, so I've removed your email and the suggestion to email you.

About your question: I don't think anyone will give you instructions+part list without getting some form of payment and you haven't mentioned anything about that, but what are you willing to pay? (I can't do it, so I'm not asking because I'm interested).
You haven't said anything about the scale of the model they want. For the rest of the answer I'm going to assume a scale that means the model will contain some hundred parts.
To address the final part of your question: Depending on what parts are used in the design you want to go with (and the depth of your pockets - some parts are very expensive) there should be no problems in you ordering the parts and building a number of copies - note that it might take quite a bit of time to actually do that, depending on:

the size of the model
the skills of the people doing the building
the building techniques used

If you can find a local builder who wants to take on the task, it might quickly become cheaper to ask them to build a number of copies.
You haven't said where you are, but if there are any LCP's (LEGO certified professionals) near you (or any of the client's offices), this sounds like a job they would like.

Henrik is spot-on with his suggestions for more details and things to think about here.
But I have a particular suggestions for the who part of your question: talk to BigPlanes from youtube that recently started their 777 project.  I don't have any contact information for this youtube user, but you could start by making a comment on one of their posts and see how it goes.
You could also try someone that builds Boeing planes on Rebrickable, but I didn't see anybody trying to do a 777 up there yet.  One advantage of Rebrickable is that most of the participants are used to creating instructions for their sets.


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Identify this partly-built clone brand plane
Someone offered my  kid a big box of mixed LEGO parts. I tried to identify some sets and I managed to build 60139 and a monster truck from Technic. But now I'm stuck. I cannot find another set (and I have around 3.5 kg more to work with)
Does anyone know which sets are these partially build parts?
I added some pictures. Looks like the wing and and the plane are related I think.

I see no "lego" markings on the studs, so this must be from a clone brand.

The stickers on the first two pictures are placed in ways LEGO wouldn't do,  further indicating that this is from a clone brand.

@Henriksupportsthecommunity This is true for recent sets, but LEGO used to have stickers across multiple parts (aka STAMP). Dismissing the fact that pictured set is from clone brand, it is plausible that older set could have had STAMP.

I wasn't as much talking about them being across multiple parts, as them being on studs (in the second picture). And all the STAMPs I've seen in LEGO sets have at least been fairly flat, not like the one in the first picture being on both the sloped and vertical parts of those pieces.

These are Ausini
The red / gray assembly is from

The white parts are from

Thank you very much, sir. I lost 6 hours trying to find something wrong. All other sets are from lego, i didn t imagine it had some outsiders.


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What website will allow me to create VERY SPECIFIC minifig heads, torsos and legs?
For instance, if I want to make a minifig of my Minecraft skin, I want some kind of program to do that.

I believe that Studio PartDesigner can do that.

Ok, ill try it.

As an alternative to Hugo's suggestion of Studio Part Designer you might want to try Mecabricks.  I find Studio easier to work with in many cases because it is a native application.  Both tools allow you to model with LEGO parts and get great 3D renders of the models.
Mecabricks excels in having more parts available.  With Studio there are more cases where you need to use the customization tools just to get a stock part while Mecabricks will already have the part.  I found this while working on custom minifigs, but I wouldn't be surprised if it applied to other categories of parts.
It can be more challenging to get started with Mecabricks, but they have some good tutorials pinned in their forum.


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Which 1x2 brick design is older?
I was trying to rebuild the LEGO Harry Potter Hogwarts Castle from 2001 and I’ve noticed that at some point they changed the 1x2’s model. Which design is older?

I remember seeing some new bricks reusing (probably updated) older variation of the mould. So this kind of information isn't always accurate.
Here what Rebrickable tells about variations of Brick 1 x 2:

There are three known mold versions of this part:
3065 Brick 1 x 2 without Bottom Tube This is the original version,
introduced in 1955. The inside has no bottom tube. While it was
replaced by a tubed version in 1959, it was kept in production for
transparent colors.
3004 Brick 1 x 2 with Open Bottom Tube This seems to be the modern
version. The bottom tube is open.
3004 Brick 1 x 2 with Solid Bottom Tube This seems to be an older
version. The bottom tube is solid.

And since Rebrickable's idea is to keep accurate inventories for each set they have following disclaimer for this brick:

The mold comparison image shows all three versions. As long as we are unsure when the mold change of 3004 happened, we  cannot create different parts for these molds.

I can't see if they have cross-members in your photo, as can be seen in the other answer. If the solid one doesn't have them, then it is definitely older. Probably they made the two changes at different times and kept hollow pillars and the one with the solid pillar is older anyway.

Hi Andrew, and welcome to Bricks SE! Requesting further information is better suited for comments on the original question, rather than answers.


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What are these vintage LEGO-like window pieces?
I have a bag of square white vintage LEGO-like windows but with grooves on 2 sides and square pegs on 2 sides.
Has clear "window" pieces and these beam-like bars, the pegs seem to fit the grooves on the other parts. Any help on identifying manufacturers or age?

These parts are from Supercity, made by Ideal

Thank you!!!  Was driving me crazy trying to find it.


text:
Can anyone help me with what set these bags belong to? Black parts galore
I have bags number 5,6,7. I think they may all be to the same set. The QR code is not coming up with anything.

I can peek a couple of 12L red axles plus a trans-green projectile.
That and the sheer amount of black parts is enough to identify this as 75256-1 Kylo Ren's Shuttle from the Star Wars franchise:

Thank you so much!


text:
Does anyone know or can identify these pieces? Lots of long tan, and blue, and white

I bought this from an auction the box that came with it was from LEGO city but judging from the colors it seems like its the wrong box. Can anyone identify?

Related: Problems with set identification questions. E.g., "Usually I will re-word the title to be more descriptive"

The canonical is How can I identify Lego sets from a box of parts?.

The color scheme immediately reminded me of London Tower Bridge (10214). Since this isn't a sealed set, it is not possible to tell if this belongs to one or several sets. However, the combination of some objects like the assembly in Yellow and Pearl Gold as well as Technic pulley wheels in Tan, the 2x10 brick in Blue and, as I mentioned, the overall color scheme all leads to this set.

From the photo OP posted, I thought the tan wheels (semi-hidden behind gray wheels) might be semi-unique. Turns out this is one of the few sets they are found in: https://www.bricklink.com/catalogItemIn.asp?P=4185&colorID=2&in=A

In fact, their combined use with the gray wheels is more obvious now that I've looked through other pictures: https://www.bricklink.com/TL/2611.jpg?1

If this is correct, what a great find at the auction OP!


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How do you scroll the canvas in EV3 Classroom?
I have EV3 classroom installed on Mac. I am writing a pretty lengthy program that does not fit in a single screen. However, I am not able to figure how to scroll down or move sideways. This should be simple, but embarrassingly, I can not figure it out.

Click on a blank area of the canvas and drag while still holding the mouse button to pan.


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What are these LEGO pieces? Dark grey, notched, a hole out to the side

Could you please help me identify this LEGO piece?

Welcome Marcin! Please post a larger picture - this picture is too small to make out any identifying details. Thanks!

Aside from the picture being very small, are there any other details you can give about this piece? The exact dimensions, how long have you had this piece. any identifying marks like a LEGO logo or part ID etc.

The canonical is How do I identify a LEGO part?.

I think I found it, it's actually two pieces on top of each other - 99563 on top of 36840 (sorry I do not have a better picture, it is cropped from a photo I found online):

99563

36840

Nice work! That looks right to me.


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Mindstorm 51515 If then else alternative - like a switch statement
Is there a way to act on multiple values for a variable? For example, x may be 1, 2, or 3. If then else allows for 2 conditions. Multiple "ifs" work, but is cumbersome.
Ideally I'd like a switch statement, such as:
switch (x) {
  case 1:
    Block1;
    break;
  case 2:
    Block2;
    break;
  case 3:
    Block3;
    break;
  default:
    break;
}

Do you mean with microPython, or the LabView-derived graphical system? Either way, the keyword you seek is or. See, for instance, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mFYmjKX00pk

Something like this:switch( expression )
{
case value-1:
Block-1;
Break;
case value-2:
Block-2;
Break;
case value-n:
Block-n;
Break;
default:
Block-1;
Break;
}
Statement-x;

Based on the set number, I'm assuming you're using the "Robot Inventor App", and the scratch-based graphical programming language?
If that's the case, then I think you're likely to be limited to what Scratch supports, and I don't believe that includes a native switch statement.
Based on this thread on the Scratch site, you could try using the broadcast and when I receive blocks to create a switch like statement (assuming you don't need too many of them):

Basically, you drop the variable into the broadcast message field, and then set up the receive blocks to kick in when the relevant value is seen (I don't own the set, but was able to play around with the App in "streaming" mode to see control flowing through these blocks)
I've taken this a step further, by using the join block to combine the counter variable with a text string, which would allow for more switch statements in different parts of your program:

Thank for the code. 51515 blocks can do a lot, but obvious limitations. When I was programming in Objective C for the iPhone using xcode I used the case statement when there were more than 2 choices.

No problem @BobDaBrick, indeed, switch statements are ideally the way to go, however they aren't available in scratch.


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Can someone help identify this piece? Looks like the back of a tiny dump truck

It's the big gray flat piece, if anyone can help find this piece I would appreciate it greatly.

It appears to be Bionicle Krana Holder 3 x 4 (Scoop / Bucket with Axle Hole)

As someone that owns many Bionicle, I agree - that is what that piece is


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Identify figure with barely any print left on its torso
I really appreciate the effort

The shape of the torso as well as horrible quality of legs means this minifig is not LEGO. And with its print almost missing it will be nearly impossible to identify.

Hi David and welcome to Bricks.SE! Can you please add some more details to your question? For example, where did you get this figure, does it have a LEGO logo anywhere, does it have the same dimensions as genuine LEGO minifigures? Then take the time to read the [help] and [tour] pages to learn how this community operates and be sure to respond to comments and answers. Have fun!

It looks like suspenders to my uninformed eye, but no google image searches yielded any joy. I could also believe it's the back of coveralls, but I had similar results.

Thanks for helping me!
The figure is LEGO sized. My kid fell in love with it on his kindergarten and bagged me to find it for him and maybe try and buy one...
I don't have any other details but from Alex's comment it is now clear that it is not an original LEGO figure (the curves of the torso are definitely not LEGOs).


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robotic inventor\spike prime hubs: Hub 2 hub communication AND led matrix control
Recently the Spike essentials set was released, including the very interesting 3x3 led matrix part:

The matrix allows to set each individual pixel in the 3x3 array to 10 different shades of 10 different colors.
The led matrix also works with the Spike Prime set, however, it seems currently unsupported in the Mindstorms Robotics inventor set, at least there are no word blocks for it in the IDE that you can download for the set.
I'd wish to control more than one such led matrix and have purchased an additional 8 with the intention of placing them in a 3x3 array to have a larger 9x9 matrix.
The hub has however only 6 ports, so I'll need an additional hub and hub to hub communication.
Unfortunately it seems that straightforward hub to hub communication is only supported in the Robotic Inventor IDE which in turn does not support the led-matrix.
What would be the easiest way to have both ? I.e. have both hub-to-hub communication and control for this new led-matrix component?
I'm willing to consider micropython solutions, but would need some pointers there:

what class do I need for the hub to hub communication in the python implementation with the native Spike Prime or Robotic Inventor firmware?
what class do I need for the led matrix control with the native Spike Prime or Robotic Inventor firmware?
same questions for when I would install the PyBricks micropython implementation.

Additional question, is there any way to set the color of ONE pixel without setting an entire 3x3 picture? Seems to be missing from the word blocks while setting the brightness is present...

PyBricks will probably be easier as it'll act the same on both hubs and can also be used on cheaper hubs.  (I guess that's what you've done by now since I've seen your stuff). The PyBricks doc on the light matrix doesn't provide a way to address an individual light; not sure if that limitation is due to PyBricks or the hardware itself but it seems you should better keep track of lights status youself.

This isn't a direct answer to your question, but it would be one way to solve the problem. Instead of using the hubs from SPIKE or Robot Inventor, you could use the Control+ hub:

This hub unfortunately only supports 4 peripherals, so you would need three of them. This hub is not programmable, but it can be controlled over Bluetooth. You can pair up to 7 hubs to a single device this way, so you could control up to 7⨯4=28 LED matrices fairly easily.
There are a couple software options to get this running. One popular one that I've had some experience with is node-poweredup. Here's an example from the docs to control a 3x3 LED matrix attached to a Control+ hub:
const PoweredUP = require("..");

const poweredUP = new PoweredUP.PoweredUP();
poweredUP.scan(); // Start scanning for hubs

console.log("Looking for Hubs...");

poweredUP.on("discover", async (hub) => { // Wait to discover hubs

    await hub.connect(); // Connect to hub
    console.log(`Connected to ${hub.name}!`);

    const matrix = await hub.waitForDeviceByType(PoweredUP.Consts.DeviceType.TECHNIC_3X3_COLOR_LIGHT_MATRIX);

    // setMatrix accepts an array of 9 items - Either standard color values (number),
    // or Color objects with brightness (brightness values are 0 to 100%)
    // It can also accept just a single color to set all 9 lights to the same color
    matrix.setMatrix([
        // Red at 100%, green at 20%, red at 100%
        PoweredUP.Consts.Color.RED, new PoweredUP.Color(PoweredUP.Consts.Color.GREEN, 20), PoweredUP.Consts.Color.RED,
        // Green at 100%, yellow at 100%, green at 100%
        PoweredUP.Consts.Color.GREEN, PoweredUP.Consts.Color.YELLOW, PoweredUP.Consts.Color.GREEN,
        // Red at 100%, green at 20%, red at 100%
        PoweredUP.Consts.Color.RED, new PoweredUP.Color(PoweredUP.Consts.Color.GREEN, 20), PoweredUP.Consts.Color.RED,
    ]);

    hub.on("disconnect", () => {
        console.log("Hub disconnected");
    })

});

The above example would need to be extended to support a number of hubs and lights and provide some management to write large images in a coherent way.


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Insert a gear into a turntable?
Is there a way to insert a 24 tooth gear into a turntable of the 48452cx1 type?
  -->
Is there any model to feature any tooth gear (even smaller) used inside this turntable?
This specific combination leads me to the conclusion that can not do this unless the turntable is disassembled or the 24 tooth gear modified.
Is there any method known to disassemble 48452cx1 without damaging it?

I distinctively recall having placed such 24 tooth gear in such turntable and being pleased how perfectly it fitted, perhaps you had a slightly different mold of the 24 tooth gear... I do agree with Alex that there is not much use for placing a 24 tooth gear inside the center of such turntable...

Probably you have inserted it when it was not assembled yet. The studs are preventing it.

You are correct, just tried, will post picture as answer

Indeed I had to disassemble it (which went without much effort) but the 24 tooth fits fine:

It can slip up or down for about half a stud but is stuck otherwise.

This is the expected mount, but how did you disassemble it without damaging it?

I could wiggle it enough until I could put a screwdriver under the lid and just forced it. I have sufficient of these turntables that I could risk one, but wouldn't advise doing this if you consider your turntables as very precious.

Any chance you took a picture of the inside workings of it? That might help with preparing for gentle disassembly.

Bricklink has a picture of the light grey base part... there's a recess round te inner cilinder where the black part just clips... On second thought, the clips on the black part are quite large (about a quarter of the circle arc each) and seem quite sturdy. So opening it by simply prying it open with a sharp tool betweel black and grey part is probably reasonably safe

I'm struggling to understand why would there be a need to insert 24T gear inside turntable gear. If you need rigid connection - it is best to use existing attachment points for you assembly.
Internal gearing works with 8T gears. 3 of them could be used in line to have planetary gearing (actually, two is enough, but to make thing a little more rigid 3 are needed). I've seen fair share of such solution being used by Truck Trial MOC's and some Crawlers within their wheel hubs to increase the torque at the wheels. Here's an example of one such hub.

A 16T gear should work as well.  Probably just 1 though?

@DarrelHoffman In terms of size both 16T as well as 12T, will fit. However, you would need to play around a little to attach them properly. For example, 16T has an offset of half a stud. 12T will be a little more trickier to attach inside turntable gear.

That too - I wasn't aware that 12T was a thing (until I looked it up just now), don't think I've ever seen one.


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EV3 Classroom: Project, Programs and MyBlocks
There are two useful features in the EV3 MINDSTORMS (LabView-based) software, that do not appear to be in the EV3 Classroom (Scratch-based) software.

We could create a project and write multiple programs under that project.
Once we create a myblock for the project, all the programs within that project could use the myblock.

I can not figure how to do this in EV3 Classroom. Specifically, how do I share "myblock" across multiple programs? Any help is really appreciated.  Thank you.

These features are indeed missing in the EV3 Classroom software. And since EV3 is retired, it seems unlikely they will be added.
Ideas for alternate solutions:

Copy the entire program to a new file to copy My Blocks.
Put everything in a single file and create your own menu interface to run sub-programs.


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How to fix the Lego Technic RC Stunt Racer (42095) set's turning drift?
I just finished the Lego 42095 Stunt Racer and noticed that there is a slight drift to the right when it drives forward. It works fine in reverse mode - reverses in a straight line.
Any suggestions, solutions please?

The best way to do this is that the motors are running at a slightly different RPM If both left and right motors run at exactly the same RPM they make us a straight line. PF L motors don't have rotation sensors to drive in straigth by default.


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Unknown Alien Robot Set
My grandsons are intrigued by the LEGO robot that is partially assembled. However we cannot locate the instructions to complete the assembly. Does anyone recognize and know what LEGO set this is?

That looks like a part of Set 7313 - Red Planet Protector a set from 2001

It sure is - thanks a lot.  My 6 year old grandsons are finding my son's partial Lego projects and they are really getting into Legos.  We are trying to reassemble the disassembled sets from boxes and boxes of Lego pieces.  It looks like we have some searching to do on this one.  Great site - thanks again.

@LOS Welcome to Bricks! I'm glad we've been able to help you find the answer to your first question - if you're able to press the grey tick below the votes on Henrik's answer you'll both get some reputation, and we'll know that your question has been solved.


text:
Advise on my mine
I'm building an old west mine.  My goal is for the mine to burrow into a mountain with tunnels and miners inside.  The front view will be railroad going into the entrance with a light bluish gray foundation. the back view will be of inside the mine with miners, gold deposits, maybe some spiders and other creepy crawlies.  For the mountain itself, my current plan is to play a series of receding  facet pieces on either side topped with some 1x5x4 arches.  Here's some pictures of what I've got so far: google link.
My questions are

Do you have any advice for building the cavern into something closer to a quarter sphere - more cavernous, and less like a pyramid?
What are some good creepy things to put in the back of the mine, besides spiders?
I'm considering putting in a small body of water in part of the mine. Is there a way I can put some creepy little tentacles coming out of the water?

Creepy things? Well, some skeletons, obviously. And as for the tentacles, why have little ones? Go Sarlacc or go home! https://i5.walmartimages.com/asr/e5abaa94-4ff3-48c1-b5cb-e4ff211ef28f_1.ccc31ab58b2d7376dded0eeb5a1f977e.jpeg?odnHeight=612&odnWidth=612&odnBg=FFFFFF

Do you have any advice for building the cavern into something closer to a quarter sphere - more cavernous, and less like a pyramid?

Use a circle generator tool (like this one) to plot circles of descending diameter, which can then be built on top of each other - resulting in an igloo-like structure. A few irregularities could help the finished model look a bit more organic.

What are some good creepy things to put in the back of the mine, besides spiders?

Ants
Bees
Demon fish
Bats
Owls
Alligators
Frogs
Rats
Scorpions
Crabs
Snakes
Lobsters
Octopi (or octopuses?)
Snails
Evil pixies
Dragons
Tentacled slimy alien headclingers
Small rock monsters
Large rock monsters
Minecraft creepers (crawling)
The one singular killer beast of Caerbannog

I'm considering putting in a small body of water in part of the mine. Is there a way I can put some creepy little tentacles coming out of the water?

Sure, just add a spiked vine to a trans-blue jumper plate. Or to have a larger tentacle, build the water with a 1x1 part missing, and add an elephant tusk/dinosaur tail/alien tentacle part to a cone set in the 1x1 hole. Other parts could act as tentacles as well.


text:
Creating client logos and buildings
My colleague and I are looking to give our smaller customers a custom built company logo out of LEGO, and our 3 largest customers a model of their entire building. Can you give us some pointers on where to start? Any tips?

This is an English language Stack. I was able to translate your post but other readers may not be able to. Please edit this question to English, you can copy and paste through Google Translate or another translation website.

This post feels like a minimally covered attempt to promote your website. I have edited it to remove the obvious links that do not add to the content of the post.

I am writing an answer as though the question were posted in English, though as originally posted it is in Dutch.
The intent when making a model is to capture the important features in a way that the model strongly reminds people of the original. Buildings have features such as overall shape, colored/tinted glass, and concrete or steel columns and beams that can be replicated in a model. Exact adherence to scale is less important, especially as you probably don't want to spend a fortune on these model buildings.
Further tips, in no particular order:

Studying some of Lego's Architecture series can give you some ideas.
Use photographs or Google Street View while building as a reference to important features.
If you have measurements of the building you can approximate a scale, say 1 stud = 10 feet.
3d modeling software might help but is likely overkill for this purpose.

LEGO specific 3D modeling software might be the way moving forward here. It offers a wide range of elements and allows you to explore different options without having a need for all those specific bricks you don't have.


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Seeking inventory of Mega Bloks set 9815
I have Mega Bloks set 9815. My children have lost the booklet that came with this set. I am looking for either in PDF or in Jpeg images a copy of the booklet. I hope to restore this set replacing missing pieces and to do this I need to know what was in this set.

Welcome to Bricks.SE.  It looks like this was a bulk bricks/blocks bucket.  If you are missing a few pieces or have a few different pieces it changes things, but you still get to play with it.


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Delete projects from Mindstorms EV3 Brick
I am using Lego Mindstorms with https://makecode.mindstorms.com/ and once the projects are downloaded to the brick, I cannot delete them anymore.