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BLTouch does not compensate for bed level correctly

Printer: Anycubic Mega S.
Mods: BLTouch, Dual material with G-code-powered switch.
Firmware: Marlin 2.0

A couple of weeks ago I had a print failure when printing PETG. Now whenever I use auto bed leveling, it doesn't compensate correctly. The nozzles will be too high on the left side of the bed, and too low toward the right. I checked my firmware configuration, and everything appears to be OK. I also suspect that the failed print may have knocked the Z endstops out of alignment.
I recalibrated the Z-offset on the BLTouch and ran a probe repeatability test. Everything came out fine. My Configuration.h can be found here. As well as a picture of the hotend setup below.
Edit: I tried leveling the bed manually before using ABL. Still had the same problem.
Edit 2: I looked more closely at the bed leveling logs and noticed that it is reading the bed level incorrectly, contrary to my previous tests.
I do not know what this means, but I suspect it has to do with misaligned endstops. Could this be correct?

Are your nozzles perfectly level? What you're describing sounds like they aren't.

@Rykara, you are correct, the nozzles were misaligned. I releveled them, but the original problem still lingers.

You think one Z axis might be slightly higher than the other? Have you aligned them to the same height like in this video?

Alright, I tried re-aligning the Z axis a couple times. It didn’t solve the problem. However, the distance from the bed to the nozzle at each side changed slightly (w/ auto leveling active).


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Trying PrusaSlicer
Being new to 3D printing, I started using Cura (which came with my Ender 3v2) to slice models I found on Thingiverse. I know that there are other slicers and have heard positive things about PrusaSlicer.
I know that settings will have different names, but I am asking more about the setup. What things, settings, etc. should I be aware of when using PrusaSlicer? Will I need to re-calibrate anything in PrusaSlicer?

You may also want to look at SuperSlicer. It's based on PrusaSlicer, but has many additional features and lots of bugfixes.

Basically all slicers work very similarly, it is a matter of preference, being accustomed, or wanting to use a certain (set of) features. Their job is to prepare the object to be sliced in layers to be executed by the printer you use. For every slicer to work properly, you need to configure the printer settings correctly.
Basically, all slicers have the following basic settings:

Printer settings, these contain information on the printer like build volume, origin, heated bed, nr. of extruders (and what filament diameter is used), scripts, etc.
filament settings,these contain e.g. information on the print and bed temperature
print settingsthese contain all parameters you use in your normally used slicer, these can be hundreds of options like speeds, accelerations, layer height, nr. of walls, etc.

some of the movement profile settings (like acceleration, jerk, max-speed) might be handled as a printer setting by some slicers and as a print one by different slicers. In the end, some of these are dependant on the printer's construction.

Printer dimensions and layout, filament diameter, and start and end G-code scripts are the things to look for. The rest is straightforward, you need to specify material and object slice settings as you would normally do.

PrusaSlicer already has pre-tuned profiles for the Ender 3 v2 in the Configuration Assistant. It also has tuned print settings from SUPERDETAIL (0.08 mm layer height) to SUPERDRAFT (0.28 mm layer height) so it shouldn't be too hard to set up.

source: Stack Exchange

license: Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/

sort: votes


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Printing issues of ABS on a Flashforge Adventure 3 nozzle blocked
I tried to print in ABS for my first time. I have had my printer for almost 2 years but have only just started to use it and have a total of 28 hours of print time. The job I tried to print was meant to take almost 35 hours to print but I stopped it after 4 hours as there was no material on the build plate. I tried to change the filament back to PLA to do a test print of some other item but was not able to load the PLA due to the nozzle being clogged up. The last of the ABS that was black was coming out of the nozzle a very pale gray. I have bought a new nozzle to reinstall it and try again.
Are there any suggestions as to what caused the nozzle to block and how to stop it from happening again? I was trying to print at 230 °C and a bed temp of 70 °C

all_licenses: Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/


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Printing issue on Ender 3V2
I am trying to print a fairly simple object yet I keep getting the same issue.
As you can see in the picture the print quality is bad with all the blobs on the vertical part of the print.
I have leveled the bed many times and I keep getting this issue. I have also calibrated the E-steps. I have replaced the PTFE tube as well.
I am printing with Sunlu PLA+. I was printing at 220 °C but now that I set it at 200 °C the result is a little bit better but it has not gone away.
Please advise on how to fix this.
Note: I have 2 Ender 3 V2's and the other printer is printing the same files pretty much perfect.

220 degrees is way too high for PLA+

Print the same file, with the same settings, on both machines.

If the problem persists, try swapping the filament between the two printers. If the problem now occurs on the other printer, that suggests that the filament is the issue. Label the bad one "For lumpy prints" and put it away.

If the problem persists on the printer where it first occurred, despite swapping filament reels, the issue probably has something to do with the printer. Remove and examine the nozzle, and consider replacing it even if it looks OK. Nozzles are cheap and easy to replace, so this is an easy early step.

If a new nozzle doesn't fix it, other parts related to the extruder like the hot end thermistor, fans, heater block, etc. could be to blame. If the thermistor is just positioned a little differently than on the "good" printer, for example, it might be reading a little low and causing the nozzle to heat up more to get to the target reading. That doesn't necessarily mean that you have to replace those parts; you just need to recognize the difference and compensate for it when you use that printer. Just as a baker might think "the recipe says 400 °F, but I know my oven runs hot, so I'll use 375 °F instead," you may need to adjust the nozzle temperature to compensate for the hardware differences when you use this printer.

Maybe it's only about the slicer settings, it's over extruding problem. I recommend lowering the extrusion multiplier.


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How can you prevent the build plate from slipping?
I have just set up my new 3D printer. However, the build plate keeps slipping while printing. I tried to use binder clips to keep the plate in place, but this makes the build plate unlevel, messing up my prints. What are some other ways to prevent the build plate from slipping. I was considering using duct tape, but am not sure whether this would work.

I use kapton tape to fixate the glass plates to the heated beds on two of my printers, one a Prusa i3 clone, the other a CoreXY. The tape is able to withstand higher temperatures, and is very thin, so it doesn't have the drawbacks of limiting the print area or high chance the nozzle hitting the clips.

I'm not sure what "the build plate keeps slipping while printing. I tried to use binder clips to keep the plate in place" means, but if you have a build surface and a bottom heated bed, you can look for "silicone thermal pad 0.5mm".
You can put it between build surface and lower bed, so that it will increase friction and there won't be any slipping, even without clips.

You can also look for "thermal conductive rubber silicone cloth 0.3mm" which is fiberglass reinforced and thinner, but with a maybe worse thermal conductivity. It is however more tear resistant, which helps when you remove the build surface.

What filament materials have you successfully printed on this surface?

@PerryWebb sorry, this goes between build surface and bottom heater

OK, makes sense now.

Build Plate
If your clips aren't holding down your build plate, make sure your nozzle isn't crashing into the plate and moving it.  A build surface between the clip and surface or adhesive might help keep the clip from slipping on the top surface.  A rubbery gasket material that can withstand you heated bed temperatures, such as the silicon FarO mentions, can keep the bottom of the plate from slipping.  This is the most important surface not to slip.
Apparently, Oscar's option is to tape down the edges of the build plate.  I have used Kapton tape to cover torn build surfaces.  As Oscar mentioned, it is thin enough for the nozzle to pass over.  Kapton tape can be a challenge to adhere at high bed temperatures, such as 110 °C.  For that option it's probably worth checking the adhesive specs if they vary for different Kapton tapes.
Those two options aren't mutually exclusive and could be used together.  You could even put clips over the Kapton tape at higher bed temperatures if it is an issue.
Build Surfaces
PEI sheets are the most common build surfaces and already have an adhesive surface.  Kapton tape seems to be the surface most resistant to damage, but a sheet that covers the entire build surface is expensive.  Kapton seems to do a better job of releasing PETG.  Otherwise, I use Elmer's glue sticks to protect the build surface.


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Ender 3 V2 blank screen and LCD continuous beeping with clicks
So I have been having an ongoing problem with my printer that I just can't solve. I don't usually ask the questions on stack exchanges until my problem gets unsolvable. Unfortunately like this one
Printer: Creality Ender 3 V2
Current Board: Creality v4.2.7 (Silent Motor)
Background: This started when I accidentally fried the T20 chip on the v4.2.2 mainboard when I tried to install the BLTouch incorrectly (I looked at the photo upside down) and and also accidentally pulled the wire out and what I guess is why the T20 chip was fried. I thought at first the PSU was the one causing the trouble at first so I replaced it. Then found the burnt chip and decided to upgrade the board to a v4.2.7. I installed everything correctly according to a video that I found somewhere on YouTube.
Current Problem(s): When I turn on the machine the light on the mainboard is on but there is continuous beeping coming from the display with small clicks like a clock every 1 sec. or so. The backlight to the display is on but nothing is shown. I just found with a multimeter that the bed and nozzle terminals give no volts back.
Firmware: I have tried to update the firmware to the official one off of Creality's website and also using the source code for Marlin v2.0.7.2 with PlatformIO. The tutorial I followed was here:

Update [3/24]: Found that the firmware seems to not flash even after giving the .bin file a different name.
Extra Thoughts: I currently have no idea what to do. I think I might replace the LCD and its cable. I have only printed a few things and just want to get back to it but I don't want to buy a whole new printer to do so. I feel like I get closer to getting back to it every time I fix something but I'm starting to lose hope that it's just a never ending problem loop. I appreciate any help given.

v 4.2.7 of what? is that a creatlity boars? What video did you watch? It reeks of mis-configured firmware.

Yeah, it's the creality board v4.2.7(silent motor) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TFTVTXK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fabc_5M1XXQQJEQAK609C0T8D?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1. And there are a lot of tutorials but I think the one that I watched was https://youtu.be/y87P7K5DTMU cause it was pretty simple. I did no major changes to the marlin firmware except change the bed sizing and environment.

Also it was doing the same problem even without the firmware change. I tried it straight out of the box and got this problem then tried flashing the firmware but still got the same problems.

When you say you tried to compile your own Marlin firmware, which files did you pull for your configuration settings? Did the firmware successfully compile?

@Rykara Pretty much, I followed the tutorial here https://youtu.be/y87P7K5DTMU I used Marlins most recent release v2.0.7.2 https://marlinfw.org/meta/download/ and the firmware did successfully compile

Which printer configuration file did you use?

@Rykara I used the /Creality/Ender-3 V2

Computers will act like that if memory or boards aren't plugged in well.  Worst case is a component faiure on the mainboard.

@PerryWebb Hopefully it's not a component failure. I don't mind breaking out my small soldering kit but I would like to avoid it if possible cause I suck at it.

Note: wrong firmware could have settings that cause a component to functionally fail with those settings, especially wrong timing.

Could be a bad or incorrectly formatted SD card. I think the card needs to be FAT32 format. Try reformating and/or using a different SD card?

@Rykara Thank you very much! I didn't know that it had to be formated to a specific type, I'm on a Mac and didn't have the FAT32 option, and I think I tried NTFS on Windows just to be safe but didn't try FAT32 for some dumb reason. Somehow it was just as simple as that.

Thanks to the comment from @Rykara, they led me to the answer:

Could be a bad or incorrectly formatted SD card. I think the card needs to be FAT32 format. Try reformating and/or using a different SD card?

The whole problem was kinda a firmware issue but on the SD card side. The reason why it wasn't flashing was because I didn't flash the SD card to use the FAT32 format. Unfortunately I tried every other format option except that one before hand, mostly because I am mainly on a Mac. Now there is no more problems and I am back on track to printing. :)

I had the constant beeping, black screen issue.
I went to Creality Cloud Firmware for 3D Printers: Ender 3 v2 Mainboard version 4.2.2.
I installed Ender-3 V2-Marlin-2.0.1 - V1.2.1 - Filament because I have the Ender 3 v2 4.2.2 board. This is the only firmware that loaded. I then reran all the other compatible firmware and it loaded them fine. But it only fixed itself once I ran the one with - Filament. No idea why!?!?! I spent hours and this is what did it.
The site's root is Creality Cloud: Download Creality Firmware and Software.

Nice answer, and hopefully it will be useful to someone else. However, while the symptoms were similar, it seems that the underlying cause is probably different from that of the OP's, which, in their case, was the SD format needing to be FAT32.


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Ender 3 Pro with BLTouch, partially completes ABL sequence then locks up
I have had an Ender 3 Pro for the last year, and put a BLTouch on it about 6 months ago. With the BLTouch installed for the last 6 months, I have successfully completed hundreds of prints with no issues.
Recently I was starting another print, and the BLTouch did not complete its leveling sequence fully and the print never started. Now sometimes it will lock up on the first probing point (1/9), it moves to the (x,y) point and extends the probe tip and then the Z-axis will move up and stop and then up and stop again. Other times it will complete the first probing points normally then lock up in the same way on point 5/9.
It does this regardless of if there is an SD card in the printer or not (starting a print or just navigating the menu). It will successfully complete the "auto home" sequence but not the "level bed" sequence.
For troubleshooting, I have tried a different leveling sensor I have and the same problems happen with it, so I don't think there is a problem with the BLTouch sensor itself. I have also flashed reflashed the firmware (Marlin 1.3.1), and that also did not solve the problem. My mainboard is the 4.2.2 model, and I have checked the plugs where the sensor gets plugged into the main board.
I am considering replacing the mainboard with the 4.2.7 model as my next step, but Im not sure that that will solve whatever problem is happening. Any ideas or tips would be awesome.

Have you checked the cable and connectors? This sounds like something I experienced myself, my problem was with the cable/connector.


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Comgrow Mini Laser Engraver - Adding laser to Windows laser control software
I recently bought a Mini Desktop Laser Engraver by Comgrow.
So far, the limited functionality of their iOS app has been fine for little trinkets for testing. Pretty good product for the cheap price. However, the technical specifications specify Windows as a compatible OS. I cannot find any documentation on how to go about making this work. I downloaded a trial version of Lightburn and connected the laser via USB. Windows 10 recognized a COM port, but Lightburn cannot recognize the laser. I'd like to do more with this than simple pre-designed clip art from my phone. Can anyone give me a brief explanation of how this COM port is supposed to communicate with my PC? Even communication with the port and laser via command line would be acceptable, but I don't know where to start looking for options because I don't have an understanding of the way the tech interfaces with my PC. Also, any recommendations to solve this issue would be appreciated.


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What am I doing wrong with my M3D Micro?
So I recently got an M3D Micro+ and have had 2 years of experience in 3D printing. I've had some issues with the printer and the prints produced and would like to know how I can fix them.
The issues include:

Thick layer lines
Bad first layers / adhesion
wobbly extruder head

Here is a screenshot of one of the prints:

The tolerances are also pretty bad. I would like to know recommended settings and such to help me get to actually printing. As of yet, I have not yet gotten a successful print.

If you have a wobbly extruder - all bets are off. Get that fixed first.

@SiHa that's a flaw of the design.

@Trish - really? Wow.

It's not you - it's the printer!
The M3D Micro is not a very sturdy setup. The X-axis is a single pair of thin rods, hung up on a pair of similarly thin rods in Y and mounted on 3 very thin pillars in Z. While the idea is good, the execution is not particularly well: The rods are too thin and the design is virtually unchanged since 2015 and thus this review from 2016 still applies. As does this from 2018:

The extruder having problems to extrude reliable and steadily was not fixed since at least 2015.
The mounting of the motion system is not very sturdy and the system itself is under-designed. This means it is particularly vulnerable to oscillation - which your print shows.

The extruder is mounted flexibly on the motion system, which amplifies all those errors. But that is designed for bed leveling - so there is little you can do to gett the needed stiffness

The motors are underpowered. This leads especially to trouble with movement accuracy unless you print super slow. And that print you showed shows that you print with more normal print settings for a 2021 machine. This also shows in your print.
If a professional in 2018 can spend 2 days calibrating and get no results with the owner's proprietary slicer, then that slicer is not worth the disk space it uses. If you need to hack Cura to get the proprietary g-code derivate and you need to do that to get even decent prints, it's a bad design.

All in all, you might squeak out better prints with a lot of calibration work, but the printer suffers so heavy from the design flaws that it would be a labor of love.

Thanks but are you sure there aren't any fixes? Like 3d printing some sort of carriage holder or wobble prevention?

@Dcybroz You can make it better, but that's a labor of love. There might be fixes on the printer's facebook community, but that does not fix that a lot of the parts might need strengthening, the whole probing mechanism needs a different setup (e.g. a separate sensor from the whole printhead) and that the firmware is proprietary.

Good idea but I 3d printed a benchy and saw that my retraction settings were off and that temp was too low so the layers weren't adhering. Also of course I would give love to my printers. It took a lot of effort to get it here.

@Dcybroz Please note that a Benchy print is not a dedicated calibration test, it is a means to see if after altering and testing/tuning the printer, the printer is able to get a decent print out. For temperature determination and retraction you need to do some dedicated printing tests first.


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Query advantages of OctoPrint
I have read that if I disconnect OctoPrint when printing, the print will stop.  Since I thought the advantage of OctoPrint over, say, printing from Cura, was that it didn't tie up the computer while the print was taking place, what are the advantages of OctoPrint?

Please define "disconnect while printing". Physically removing the Raspberry Pi from the printer or the wall socket? Or do you mean closing the web interface tab on your PC?

I have read that if I disconnect OctoPrint when printing, the print will stop.

You can disconnect your computer from the OctoPrint server while printing and the print will continue just fine. You cannot disconnect the OctoPrint server from the printer without interrupting the print, of course.

Since I thought the advantage of OctoPrint over, say, printing from Cura, was that it didn't tie up the computer while the print was taking place, what are the advantages of OctoPrint?

The advantage (the one you're talking about, anyway) of printing via OctoPrint (which you can also do via Cura, btw) is that you don't have to tie up the computer that you're using for other things. You run OctoPrint on some other computer that can stay connected to the printer. Typically, a Raspberry Pi is used; they're cheap (~$30), and there's an OctoPi distribution that's practically a turnkey solution.
Other advantages of OctoPrint include:

stores your .stl files, either on the print server or on the printer's SD card
enables remote monitoring, including a webcam feed
lets you control your printer from any device with a web browser
provides a plugin mechanism (and a large variety of plugins) to extend its capabilities

The benefit of using OctoPrint as a printserver lies in the fact that it can be used on a stable computer platform. E.g. when you install OctoPrint on a Raspberry Pi, you are ensured that the "computer" stays online. Other platforms, such as Windows are much prone to interrupt the printing process (user actions during printing, sleep mode, Windows updates, etc.). Furthermore, the power consumption of the Raspberry Pi is also much lower than a full computer or laptop running OctoPrint.
An advantage of running OctoPrint on a dedicated Raspberry Pi is that you can access it from anywhere within your network through a browser interface (or even from the outside) as it is always online. Other advantages of OctoPrint over e.g. Cura is that there are numerous plugins available to tailor the printing process to your needs.

The advantage to OctoPrint is that 3D prints take a long time, and Windows needs reboots.
The moment (or 4 days into it) you start a 5-day print job, there will be an urgent need to reboot your Windows computer.
Then your print job will be lost, and you will have to start all over.
Applications crash, windows update needs to reboot, and a host of dozens of other reasons all surface when you start printing.
Eventually, Windows will force a reboot or you will get a blue screen of death from Windows, etc.
The OctoPi and/or OctoPrint run on a Linux-based OS that just works.
It never crashes, or at least I have never had it crash.
When you have a 5-day print, reliability is king.
Also, it should be noted with a Cura plugin you can send the print directly to OctoPrint. I do this all the time.
Plus they're a number of handy community support plug-ins for OctoPrint.
In addition, because it's not attached to my computer directly there is one less cable to trip on.

These days, Windows pretty much just works, too. The advantage of OctoPrint is you set it up on a dedicated machine you are not using for other things, such as a Raspberri Pi.

@JoelCoehoorn  Here's my problem with Windows.  First normally, my machine is 100% reliable.  However, I try dozens of software packages a week sometime and have 10 programs going at once.  So your 3 days into a print job, and now you have installed something you need to reboot for.  Also you have when you have a bunch of programs open one program can cause others to fail.  Your version of SketchUp fails it can and has kiledl Cura and your print job because they are both GPU accelerated.  Launch another program it may crash your computer. And then I want to run my video game at the same time.

So for about $100 for a PI4 4GB with SD card,PSU,case and etc.  I can get a computer I can operate for about 4-6kwh/month that I can dedicate to the task and not worry about when I need to reboot my computer next.  Or Sketchup crashing Cura or any of the other 10 things I am trying to do at once causing Cura or windows to die.

That's not a Windows problem. You'd have the same issue with your raspberry pi or $100 refurb special if you were messing around with it doing other things while also wanting to print. The advantage is in fully dedicating the device to the task, not in the OS choice.

Printer Supervisory control and data acquisition (SCADA)
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/SCADA
In the context of 3d printing, SCADA is useful because it is important to have a redundant method of monitoring (and control) of a system. The 3d printer's µController is typically busy with doing the important task of controlling the steppers and monitoring the heating elements. It is important to the print job that these functions occur in a way that is uninterruptible. We know all too well of the consequences of letting the hot end go into thermal runaway. As it stands most 3d printers have simple µControllers that are not powerful enough to handle TCP/IP responses AND monitor the 3d printer's machinery. To that end, being able to notify a Supervisor of the status of the machine and any failure conditions that may be occurring becomes important in the management of the machine. This is where a Supervisory system like Octoprint comes in. With its myriad of plugins and other connectivity, it extends the abilities of an inexpensive printer (e.g. like my Anet A8) with advanced capabilities for notification (e.g. the Octoprint Android/IOS apps) and control; such as automatically powering off the printer with a wifi-enabled smart plug. These are safety features that should be considered when operating a 3d printer. The temptation to leave the machine running unattended has resulted in problems in the past.
With a supervisory system, the machine's operator can give at least some attention to the print process at all times.
Further, sometimes the print fails without actually being a result of some sort of electromechanical fault. Having optical inspection equipment (e.g. a camera) attached to the supervisory system can help determine if there are problems with the process so that fine-tuning can be performed. Without such data, it is usually very difficult to diagnose those problems.

In other words, using OctoPrint is safer? I think this could be a good answer if you were to explain in more detail how OctoPrint fulfills/accomplishes this.

@Rykara, I included the link to SCADA as the explanation. It is a well-understood principle; like wearing a seatbelt.

@Rykara, Detail regarding how SCADA relates to 3d printers?

@Rykara, better?

I think that's a great answer now. +1!

There are some answers here talking about reliability of an OctoPrint installation vs Windows, but they only tell part of the story. These days, Windows can be pretty reliable, too. If I really cared about reliability, I'd use the SD card method, which takes other computers out of the equation completely.
Instead, the advantage of OctoPrint comes down to two things:

You set it up on a dedicated computer that is not used for other things. Something like a cheap Raspberry Pi. This is what is really responsible for improving reliability over printing from your desktop/laptop. It's not about using linux over Windows as much as making sure absolutely nothing else will interfere with the computer for the duration of the print.

OctoPrint is designed explicitly for printing and managing prints. It's not just an add-on or feature of another product whose main purpose is slicing, as when you print from Cura, but a platform in its own right with support for plug-ins and extra tools for managing and monitoring your print, to extend the experience beyond what you could otherwise achieve.
For example, OctoPrint makes it possible to check on your progress over the web, without needing to setup a dedicated web server on your day-to-day computer. Or you can manage your printer by installing an app on your phone. Or you can use OctoPrint to create time-lapse videos of your print. Or get an alert when reaching a certain layer. Or a hundred other ways you can use plug-ins to customize OctoPrint to work the way you want.

Personally, I use OctoPrint mainly to add wifi capability to the printer (it's not built-in for my printer), so I can start printing directly from my desk without also needing to keep the printer close enough to the computer to connect a usb cable.


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Vary line with Z-axis for imported SVG file
I have an SVG file of a line drawing.  When I import it into Tinkercad it generates a 3D version with the width of the lines remaining constant along the Z-axis (as expected).  I would like to generate a similar STL but with the line width narrowing for increasing values of Z.  (Similar to the Bevel option in some of the Tinkercad Text shapes).
Can anyone point me at a tutorial on how to do this in Tinkercad, Blender, Meshmixer or Open SCAD?

I think this might depend on exactly what shape/file you're dealing with and how much of a bevel you're wanting to add. It might be worth adding screenshot(s).

In OpenSCAD you could create a bevel using the minkowski transformation by transforming the curve using tapered shape such as a pyramid or as I do below a tapered cylinder:
minkowski() {

  linear_extrude(1)
    import("drawing.svg");

  cylinder(h = 20, r1 = 10, r2 = 1);
}


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3DTouch: G-code to temporarily change probe points and Z home?
I am using a BLTouch clone (3DTouch), and with G28 and G29 in Simplify3D it auto-detects Z home right in the center of the bed and afterward it measures 9 grid points. For most of my printings, this is great, except for a special one.
This special one consists of one first print with a thin drawing and a second print on top of that drawing (obviously with the gap matching the drawing).
G28 and G29 are not an issue for the drawing print, but for the second print where the nozzle must not touch the center (since it would ruin the drawing and would measure a wrong Z home and a wrong Z probe point there).
So is there a G-code that indicates the printer to select Z home on a different position (determined by X and Y coordinates, outside the drawing) and to eliminate the central point of the grid (leaving the remaining 8 points)?
Obviously, I can't change the firmware every time that I print that special figure, so it must be through a script.
EDIT:
This is an example of the print, the very first layer:

Print 1: 0,4 mm layer of blue
Print 2: 0,4 mm layer of green
Print 3: Much thicker and bigger print of white filament that prints around the previous prints during the first 2 layers and start covering all by the third layer.
Imagine a box cover with a drawing on top. The first layers of each print must be as smooth and nice as possible as is it the visible one. I was doing this manually before installing the BLTouch with very good results, the drawing gets embedded in the final printing.

You're printing the same thing right in top of a previous print? Are you changing filament or something? Why not just have it print extra layers during the same print?

As there is already a layer laid out on the build plate you should not use G29 to scan the plate again. As said in a previous comment, can't you join the 2 files? Alternatively, don't use G29, instead load a saved mesh and raise the Z height after your G28 command.

I can't join the files, I am going to edit the first post and add an example image of what I mean.

I could indeed load a saved mesh, that would solve the second time that the nozzle goes to the middle before printing.
Now I would just need to know how to tell the BLTouch to measure Z home in the coordinates I want.


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Using auto-bed leveling, do I need to initiate G29 before every print?
Various methods to scan the top surface exist to improve the bed adhesion to prevent prints to come loose from the bed during printing: e.g. BLTouch and clones or inductive and capacitive sensors/probes.
In order, for the print head, to use this so-called auto-bed leveling (ABL) you need to add the G29 command in your start G-code of your slicer.
Is it necessary to call G29 before every print?

The rationale behind this is that scanning the surface takes up some time, certainly on very short prints, it would be great if the surface geometry could be saved.

No, it is not necessary to call G29 before every print to "auto level the bed" 1) provided that:

the bed surface has not changed (e.g. large load or force has been exerted on the build platform, leveling screws are accidentally adjusted, a substantial different bed temperature is used causing different thermal stresses, etc.),
the carriage of the hotend is stable (some printers, e.g. the cantilever type, or single side Z lead screw driven printers are more prone to an unstable or level axis), and
the scanned surface geometry is saved in the controller board memory.

There are several solutions to solve this. You could manually run the G29 command once in a while storing the scanned surface with an M500 command  to save the mesh to the EEPROM (memory) of the controller board (this can be done from the printer controller display for Marlin operated printers, an interface like a terminal or a print server application, or from pre-stored .g/G-code files on an SD card). If you use the SD-card, note that it is possible to auto-launch G-code files from the root of the SD-card upon inserting.
Do note to remove the G29 command in the start code of the slicer. The G29 command needs to be replaced with M420 S1 for Marlin firmware operated printers. This command will load the saved mesh at the start of the print from memory. This is especially useful when using a large amount of probing points (e.g. a large bed mesh using a 10 x 10 mesh of 100 probing points, to ensure the mesh is up-to-date, once in a while initiate the scanning sequence to store an updated mesh).

1) Please note that auto-bed leveling might be confusingly indicating that some magic leveling of the build platform/surface itself is taking place (this is also possible in Marlin when there are multiple Z steppers and lead screws used), but, that is not actually what is meant with this phrasing. The process of the auto-bed leveling actually scans the surface of the build surface and compensates the height of the print head/nozzle during a predefined printing height (usually 10 mm, set in the firmware or through G-code: M420 Z10 ; Gradually reduce compensation until Z=10), during this printing process the nozzle gradually be less and less compensated until there is no compensation and the print nozzle will print parallel to the guide axis (e.g. the X-axis in i3 style printers and X-Y axes in CoreXY kinematics printers.


text:
How do I update my firmware after installing a 400XL kit on my Ender 3
I've updated my Ender 3 with V4.2.7 mainboard, BLTouch and 400XL kit (extends the capabilities of your Creality Ender 3 3D Printer to a 400 mm X, 400 mm Y and a 500 mm Z printing platform). Now I need to update the firmware. YouTube did not provide any help: i.e.: out of date, so cryptic as to be unusable. Marlin & Creality had overly complicated, for what I need, solutions. Trying these led only to frustrations! Any ideas?

Without knowing exactly which Youtube videos you've looked at, I think where I would start is by downloading the latest Marlin Fimrware and configuration files for the Ender 3 with 4.2.7 board:
Latest Release of Marlin Firmware on Github
Configuration File Repository on Github
Microsoft visual Studio
PlatormIO
If I were doing your upgrade in your place, I would refer to this video for how to compile the firmware for the correct board. I've had to compile firmware for my Ender 3 a few times and I sometimes forget a step. This video is the best that I've found for showing/reminding me of each step.
Essentially, what I think you need to do is compile your firmware as if it were a stock Ender 3 V2 using the settings files I linked above but then change your print area the configuration.h file to match the X400 x Y400 x Z500 print bed area.
Look for the following:
// The size of the print bed
#define X_BED_SIZE 200
#define Y_BED_SIZE 200

Change to the following:
// The size of the print bed
#define X_BED_SIZE 400
#define Y_BED_SIZE 400

And then look for
#define Z_MAX_POS 200

and change to:
#define Z_MAX_POS 500

There are other changes you'd need to make to the settings file (refer to the video for those). I haven't done your particular upgrade on my machine, so I'm just guessing those extra couple of changes would work for you.

I've done the board upgrade on my Ender 3 Pro. As I've read the BLTouch is easy to install. I'd go over to the Creality forum/help site. You can open a support ticket.  They actively have information on firmware in both "release" and "beta" threads.  Look there & see if you can get your answers.

Shortly after my post I found this commercial Marlin site 1). It offers firmware for Creality & other printers. You can order 'off the shelf' firmware or customize it yourself. Customizing is quite easy & self explanatory; 5 min. after submitting my requirements, I received a zip file, which I un-zipped & copied the needed file to my SD card. Then I inserted the SD card into my printer & started it. The printer recognized the new firmware & updated its self.

1) This service is not free. Membership of \$15.00/year, is required.

You have to have a yearlong membership for a one-time download?

Many thanks for answering your own question. Getting someone else to do the configuration for you is also an option which I myself never considered. But, for those on a tight budget, there are multiple sources that deliver the correct configuration for the Ender 3, the only difference is the larger printer volume dimensions, this is covered in this answer. Please consider the other answers before accepting one. Thanks, happy printing!

A quick solution is obtaining a pre configured configuration file for this custom extended version of the Ender 3. While it should be very easy to find configurations for Ender 3 with or without BLTouch, the only difference this extension has is an updated printer volume specification. A ready made configuration is found here (please note that it contains an errand for the maximum build height, change #define Z_MAX_POS 250 to #define Z_MAX_POS 500.
The basic changes are:
// The size of the print bed
#define X_BED_SIZE 400
#define Y_BED_SIZE 400

Z_MAX_POS 500


text:
Nozzle height adjusting for every print
I'm new to the 3D printing world and got my first Ender 3 (with the 32-bit controller board).
I have a problem with every single print. I've upgraded to the newest Marlin firmware, did the mesh leveling then started printing and fix the Z bed option in "Tune - Z bed" during the print (so the first layer is perfect). Please note that I save all the data of the mesh before end of the print. Then, when I start the same print again, the nozzle height is wrong. This happens every single print. The strange thing is that I need to adjust the height differently after every print. Like, the first print was -0.055 mm, second print was 0.30 mm, then it was +0.25 mm somehow.
I really like to print without these constant adjustments.

Are you using the stock Z homing switch or have you added a Z sensor on the print head (eg a BLTouch, etc)?

Im using the stock homing switch. No BLTouch

Hmm. Usually, if your Z Min is changing it's because your bed isn't level or is warped and you're measuring in different spots. Or using different paper. Or your bed/nozzle are at significantly different temperatures between measurements. Or it could be your Z axis rod is slipping and needs tightened....

Thanks everybody for their help, but apparently it was a slicer/software/gcode (i don't really know :D) issue...
So i just added this line M420 S1 after the G28 command to my Cura printer settings and now the nozzle height is always at the point i set before, no changing every print.
Hope my solve will help somebody who is struggling with this too!

It sounds like your bed is unstable. This is what I had to do with my Tronxy X1, and I fixed it by installing a decent bed stabiliser. Now that I have a stable bed, I only have to re-level it occasionally. However, the Tronxy X1 is a cantilever printer with a single rail for the bed, not an Ender 3.
I would suggest that you tighten the bed-levelling springs as far as they will go whilst still leaving sufficient movement for bed levelling, and re-position the end-stop switch. Then re-level the bed. If that doesn't work, try fitting stiffer springs. Upgrades are available for the Ender 3. If that still doesn't work, look for bed stabilisation solutions for your printer.
Note also that the bed-levelling knobs have a reputation for coming loose on the Ender 3. Tightening the springs (or fitting stiffer springs) may cure this, but some users fit locking nuts to stop the knobs moving.

Might just be a bad end switch if the deviation is so slow - and uniform over the whole surface. Bed screws moving on their own usually also skews the leveling itself.

@towe One would think so (and you may be right). However, with my old bed carriage, it didn't seem to be out of level (although it is a rather small bed), but I had to check the bed height for every print, and it often required adjustment at all corners, so much so that it became part of my work-flow. When I installed the new bed stabiliser, the problem vanished. I was absolutely gob-smacked, especially as I had been struggling with the problem for 3 years. I now consider myself to be an expert bed-leveller (at least, on my printer type).


text:
How to improve this Benchy? BIQU B1
I have just acquired my first 3D printer, a BIQU B1. Overall I'm quite pleased with the printing results but I'm having minor defects on the Benchy test. I'm not sure what the problem is, but I guess it's related to the overhang and maybe vibrations.
My print settings are:

Software: Ultimaker Cura
Temp: 205 °C
Heatbed temp: 60 °C
Height: 0.2 mm
Print speed: 60 mm/s
Travel speed: 150 mm/s
Flow: 94 %

That's an impressive result. Do you get these same artifacts on each print produced, in the same locations?

Hi @fred_dot_u! Yes, it is always at the same locations. Even tried other filament, the one that came with the printer as a sample, and produced the same artifacts.
Today I tried a profile for the BIQU B1 I found for Prusa Slicer and the banding like artifact was fixed. But the Benchy was printed with a lot of stringing:
Photo

@Celtc That looks like that e.g. accelerations are different, also you print at a pretty high temperaure for PLA. The Benchy's in the Q show that the filament sags out on overhangs, although this is difficult to overcome completely, you should print at a lower temperature and probably increase part cooling fan flow.

@0scar lowering the temp is a good advice. At first I tried 180° but once I got splitted layers and increased the temp to 205°. But it may be a bit to high. Will try with 190° and 195°.

Would you mind sharing where you found the Prusa Slicer profile? I'm thinking of switching to it and can't find a profile online.

@nathanjaker Here it is: link
The original profiles are the ones name as V1 (Standard quality, the Draft and Super were created by me). I did a lot of tweaking in order to improve them. Last versions are the ones selected in the bundle. I'm still working on them so any feedback will be appreciated.

After two weeks of working on different settings in different slicers, I finally have a profile which has improved the quality of my printings. It still has some overhangs, which I'm sure will improve by increasing the cooling flow like 0scar already mentioned.
Here is the profile bundle (for Prusa Slicer): Link or see this answer below.

It is great that you managed to get a working configuration. However, in the future, at some point, the link to your google drive may end up dying, which would render your answer not so useful. I realise that you can not paste the entire code into the answer (I have just tried to do so and the character limit was reached (Body is limited to 30000 characters; you entered 30218.) . However, if you could paste in just the sections that you had to fix/change in order to get the print to work, then that would be great.

Nevertheless, I have pasted your code (in its entirety) into this community answer

From the Benchys, it is apparent that the temperature is quite high or that there is not enough part cooling flow. This can be seen from the sagging of unsupported overhanging structures. Considering the bow of the Benchy is quite fine, the most probable cause is the temperature, usually with too less part cooling flow, the bow shows defects.
Please note that a Benchy is a gimmick that does show defects, but it isn't a calibration object, there are many other different test prints available.

I agree with this answer. There might be an obstruction in the cooling. I also have a B1, have you checked the included printed part that redirects the blower fans towards the part and made sure it's clear? Mine came with some warping that I had to file off.

Code from Celtic's answer:
# generated by PrusaSlicer 2.3.0+win64 on 2021-04-17 at 15:16:02 UTC

[print:BIQU B1 - Standard]
avoid_crossing_perimeters = 1
avoid_crossing_perimeters_max_detour = 75%
bottom_fill_pattern = monotonic
bottom_solid_layers = 4
bottom_solid_min_thickness = 0
bridge_acceleration = 0
bridge_angle = 0
bridge_flow_ratio = 1
bridge_speed = 50
brim_width = 0
clip_multipart_objects = 1
compatible_printers =
compatible_printers_condition =
complete_objects = 0
default_acceleration = 0
dont_support_bridges = 1
draft_shield = 0
elefant_foot_compensation = 0
ensure_vertical_shell_thickness = 0
external_perimeter_extrusion_width = 0
external_perimeter_speed = 50%
external_perimeters_first = 0
extra_perimeters = 1
extruder_clearance_height = 20
extruder_clearance_radius = 20
extrusion_width = 0.4
fill_angle = 45
fill_density = 20%
fill_pattern = cubic
first_layer_acceleration = 0
first_layer_extrusion_width = 0
first_layer_height = 0.28
first_layer_speed = 20
gap_fill_speed = 20
gcode_comments = 0
gcode_label_objects = 0
infill_acceleration = 0
infill_anchor = 600%
infill_anchor_max = 50
infill_every_layers = 1
infill_extruder = 1
infill_extrusion_width = 0.48
infill_first = 0
infill_only_where_needed = 0
infill_overlap = 30%
infill_speed = 60
inherits =
interface_shells = 0
ironing = 0
ironing_flowrate = 15%
ironing_spacing = 0.1
ironing_speed = 15
ironing_type = top
layer_height = 0.2
max_print_speed = 80
max_volumetric_speed = 0
min_skirt_length = 50
notes =
only_retract_when_crossing_perimeters = 1
ooze_prevention = 0
output_filename_format = [input_filename_base].gcode
overhangs = 1
perimeter_acceleration = 0
perimeter_extruder = 1
perimeter_extrusion_width = 0
perimeter_speed = 50
perimeters = 4
post_process =
print_settings_id =
raft_layers = 0
resolution = 0
seam_position = aligned
single_extruder_multi_material_priming = 1
skirt_distance = 5
skirt_height = 1
skirts = 1
slice_closing_radius = 0.049
small_perimeter_speed = 40%
solid_infill_below_area = 70
solid_infill_every_layers = 0
solid_infill_extruder = 1
solid_infill_extrusion_width = 0
solid_infill_speed = 50%
spiral_vase = 0
standby_temperature_delta = -5
support_material = 0
support_material_angle = 0
support_material_auto = 1
support_material_buildplate_only = 0
support_material_contact_distance = 0.2
support_material_enforce_layers = 0
support_material_extruder = 1
support_material_extrusion_width = 0.35
support_material_interface_contact_loops = 0
support_material_interface_extruder = 1
support_material_interface_layers = 3
support_material_interface_spacing = 0
support_material_interface_speed = 100%
support_material_pattern = rectilinear
support_material_spacing = 2.5
support_material_speed = 60
support_material_synchronize_layers = 0
support_material_threshold = 0
support_material_with_sheath = 1
support_material_xy_spacing = 50%
thin_walls = 0
threads = 24
top_fill_pattern = monotonic
top_infill_extrusion_width = 0
top_solid_infill_speed = 80%
top_solid_layers = 4
top_solid_min_thickness = 0
travel_speed = 150
wipe_tower = 0
wipe_tower_bridging = 10
wipe_tower_no_sparse_layers = 0
wipe_tower_rotation_angle = 0
wipe_tower_width = 60
wipe_tower_x = 180
wipe_tower_y = 140
xy_size_compensation = 0

[filament:BIQU B1 - GSDT - PLA+ Silver]
bed_temperature = 50
bridge_fan_speed = 100
compatible_printers =
compatible_printers_condition =
compatible_prints =
compatible_prints_condition =
cooling = 1
disable_fan_first_layers = 1
end_filament_gcode = "; Filament-specific end gcode \n;END gcode for filament\n"
extrusion_multiplier = 1
fan_always_on = 1
fan_below_layer_time = 100
filament_colour = #8B8B8B
filament_cooling_final_speed = 3.4
filament_cooling_initial_speed = 2.2
filament_cooling_moves = 4
filament_cost = 1000
filament_density = 1.3
filament_deretract_speed = nil
filament_diameter = 1.75
filament_load_time = 0
filament_loading_speed = 28
filament_loading_speed_start = 3
filament_max_volumetric_speed = 0
filament_minimal_purge_on_wipe_tower = 15
filament_notes = ""
filament_ramming_parameters = "120 100 6.6 6.8 7.2 7.6 7.9 8.2 8.7 9.4 9.9 10.0| 0.05 6.6 0.45 6.8 0.95 7.8 1.45 8.3 1.95 9.7 2.45 10 2.95 7.6 3.45 7.6 3.95 7.6 4.45 7.6 4.95 7.6"
filament_retract_before_travel = nil
filament_retract_before_wipe = nil
filament_retract_layer_change = nil
filament_retract_length = nil
filament_retract_lift = nil
filament_retract_lift_above = nil
filament_retract_lift_below = nil
filament_retract_restart_extra = nil
filament_retract_speed = nil
filament_settings_id = ""
filament_soluble = 0
filament_spool_weight = 1000
filament_toolchange_delay = 0
filament_type = PLA
filament_unload_time = 0
filament_unloading_speed = 90
filament_unloading_speed_start = 100
filament_vendor = (Unknown)
filament_wipe = nil
first_layer_bed_temperature = 50
first_layer_temperature = 195
full_fan_speed_layer = 4
inherits =
max_fan_speed = 100
min_fan_speed = 100
min_print_speed = 10
slowdown_below_layer_time = 10
start_filament_gcode = "; Filament gcode\n"
temperature = 195

[filament:BIQU B1 - PETG]
bed_temperature = 70
bridge_fan_speed = 35
compatible_printers =
compatible_printers_condition =
compatible_prints =
compatible_prints_condition =
cooling = 1
disable_fan_first_layers = 3
end_filament_gcode = "; Filament-specific end gcode \n;END gcode for filament\n"
extrusion_multiplier = 1
fan_always_on = 1
fan_below_layer_time = 100
filament_colour = #29B2B2
filament_cooling_final_speed = 3.4
filament_cooling_initial_speed = 2.2
filament_cooling_moves = 4
filament_cost = 0
filament_density = 0
filament_deretract_speed = nil
filament_diameter = 1.75
filament_load_time = 0
filament_loading_speed = 28
filament_loading_speed_start = 3
filament_max_volumetric_speed = 0
filament_minimal_purge_on_wipe_tower = 15
filament_notes = ""
filament_ramming_parameters = "120 100 6.6 6.8 7.2 7.6 7.9 8.2 8.7 9.4 9.9 10.0| 0.05 6.6 0.45 6.8 0.95 7.8 1.45 8.3 1.95 9.7 2.45 10 2.95 7.6 3.45 7.6 3.95 7.6 4.45 7.6 4.95 7.6"
filament_retract_before_travel = nil
filament_retract_before_wipe = nil
filament_retract_layer_change = nil
filament_retract_length = 4
filament_retract_lift = nil
filament_retract_lift_above = nil
filament_retract_lift_below = nil
filament_retract_restart_extra = nil
filament_retract_speed = nil
filament_settings_id = ""
filament_soluble = 0
filament_spool_weight = 0
filament_toolchange_delay = 0
filament_type = PET
filament_unload_time = 0
filament_unloading_speed = 90
filament_unloading_speed_start = 100
filament_vendor = (Unknown)
filament_wipe = nil
first_layer_bed_temperature = 75
first_layer_temperature = 235
full_fan_speed_layer = 0
inherits =
max_fan_speed = 35
min_fan_speed = 35
min_print_speed = 15
slowdown_below_layer_time = 20
start_filament_gcode = "; Filament gcode\n"
temperature = 235

[printer:BIQU B1 (No Z Hop)]
bed_custom_model =
bed_custom_texture =
bed_shape = 0x0,235x0,235x235,0x235
before_layer_gcode = ;LAYER:[layer_num]
between_objects_gcode =
color_change_gcode = M600
cooling_tube_length = 5
cooling_tube_retraction = 91.5
default_filament_profile = ""
default_print_profile =
deretract_speed = 0
end_gcode = ;BIQU Default End Gcode\nG91 ;Relative positioning\nG1 E-2 F2700  ;Retract a bit\nG1 E-2 Z0.2 F2400  ;Retract a bit more and raise Z\nG1 X5 Y5 F3000 ;Wipe out\nG1 Z10;Raise Z by 10mm\nG90 ;Return to absolute positionning\nG1 X0 Y235  ;TaDaaaa\nM106 S0 ;Turn-off fan\nM104 S0 ;Turn-off hotend\nM140 S0 ;Turn-off bed\nM84 X Y E ;Disable all steppers but Z
extra_loading_move = -2
extruder_colour = ""
extruder_offset = 0x0
gcode_flavor = marlin
high_current_on_filament_swap = 0
host_type = octoprint
inherits =
layer_gcode =
machine_limits_usage = emit_to_gcode
machine_max_acceleration_e = 5000,5000
machine_max_acceleration_extruding = 500,1250
machine_max_acceleration_retracting = 1000,1250
machine_max_acceleration_x = 500,1000
machine_max_acceleration_y = 500,1000
machine_max_acceleration_z = 100,200
machine_max_feedrate_e = 75,120
machine_max_feedrate_x = 250,200
machine_max_feedrate_y = 250,200
machine_max_feedrate_z = 10,12
machine_max_jerk_e = 2.5,2.5
machine_max_jerk_x = 8,10
machine_max_jerk_y = 8,10
machine_max_jerk_z = 0.2,0.4
machine_min_extruding_rate = 0,0
machine_min_travel_rate = 0,0
max_layer_height = 0
max_print_height = 270
min_layer_height = 0.07
nozzle_diameter = 0.4
parking_pos_retraction = 92
pause_print_gcode = M601
print_host =
printer_model =
printer_notes =
printer_settings_id =
printer_technology = FFF
printer_variant =
printer_vendor =
printhost_apikey =
printhost_cafile =
remaining_times = 0
retract_before_travel = 1.5
retract_before_wipe = 0%
retract_layer_change = 0
retract_length = 7
retract_length_toolchange = 10
retract_lift = 0
retract_lift_above = 0
retract_lift_below = 0
retract_restart_extra = 0
retract_restart_extra_toolchange = 0
retract_speed = 70
silent_mode = 0
single_extruder_multi_material = 0
start_gcode = M220 S100 ;Reset Feedrate\nM221 S100 ;Reset Flowrate\nG28 ;Home\nG92 E0 ;Reset Extruder\nG1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up\nM109 S{first_layer_temperature[0]}; Preheat hotend\nG1 X10.1 Y20 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to start position\nG1 X10.1 Y200.0 Z0.28 F1500.0 E15 ;Draw the first line\nG1 X10.4 Y200.0 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to side a little\nG1 X10.4 Y20 Z0.28 F1500.0 E30 ;Draw the second line\nG92 E0 ;Reset Extruder\nG1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up
template_custom_gcode =
thumbnails =
toolchange_gcode =
use_firmware_retraction = 0
use_relative_e_distances = 0
use_volumetric_e = 0
variable_layer_height = 0
wipe = 0
z_offset = 0

[printer:BIQU B1 (With Z Hop)]
bed_custom_model =
bed_custom_texture =
bed_shape = 0x0,235x0,235x235,0x235
before_layer_gcode = ;LAYER:[layer_num]
between_objects_gcode =
color_change_gcode = M600
cooling_tube_length = 5
cooling_tube_retraction = 91.5
default_filament_profile = ""
default_print_profile =
deretract_speed = 0
end_gcode = ;BIQU Default End Gcode\nG91 ;Relative positioning\nG1 E-2 F2700  ;Retract a bit\nG1 E-2 Z0.2 F2400  ;Retract a bit more and raise Z\nG1 X5 Y5 F3000 ;Wipe out\nG1 Z10;Raise Z by 10mm\nG90 ;Return to absolute positionning\nG1 X0 Y235  ;TaDaaaa\nM106 S0 ;Turn-off fan\nM104 S0 ;Turn-off hotend\nM140 S0 ;Turn-off bed\nM84 X Y E ;Disable all steppers but Z
extra_loading_move = -2
extruder_colour = ""
extruder_offset = 0x0
gcode_flavor = marlin
high_current_on_filament_swap = 0
host_type = octoprint
inherits =
layer_gcode =
machine_limits_usage = emit_to_gcode
machine_max_acceleration_e = 5000,5000
machine_max_acceleration_extruding = 500,1250
machine_max_acceleration_retracting = 1000,1250
machine_max_acceleration_x = 500,1000
machine_max_acceleration_y = 500,1000
machine_max_acceleration_z = 100,200
machine_max_feedrate_e = 75,120
machine_max_feedrate_x = 250,200
machine_max_feedrate_y = 250,200
machine_max_feedrate_z = 10,12
machine_max_jerk_e = 2.5,2.5
machine_max_jerk_x = 8,10
machine_max_jerk_y = 8,10
machine_max_jerk_z = 0.2,0.4
machine_min_extruding_rate = 0,0
machine_min_travel_rate = 0,0
max_layer_height = 0
max_print_height = 270
min_layer_height = 0.07
nozzle_diameter = 0.4
parking_pos_retraction = 92
pause_print_gcode = M601
print_host =
printer_model =
printer_notes =
printer_settings_id =
printer_technology = FFF
printer_variant =
printer_vendor =
printhost_apikey =
printhost_cafile =
remaining_times = 0
retract_before_travel = 1.5
retract_before_wipe = 0%
retract_layer_change = 0
retract_length = 7
retract_length_toolchange = 10
retract_lift = 1
retract_lift_above = 0
retract_lift_below = 0
retract_restart_extra = 0
retract_restart_extra_toolchange = 0
retract_speed = 70
silent_mode = 0
single_extruder_multi_material = 0
start_gcode = M220 S100 ;Reset Feedrate\nM221 S100 ;Reset Flowrate\nG28 ;Home\nG92 E0 ;Reset Extruder\nG1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up\nM109 S{first_layer_temperature[0]}; Preheat hotend\nG1 X10.1 Y20 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to start position\nG1 X10.1 Y200.0 Z0.28 F1500.0 E15 ;Draw the first line\nG1 X10.4 Y200.0 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to side a little\nG1 X10.4 Y20 Z0.28 F1500.0 E30 ;Draw the second line\nG92 E0 ;Reset Extruder\nG1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up
template_custom_gcode =
thumbnails =
toolchange_gcode =
use_firmware_retraction = 0
use_relative_e_distances = 0
use_volumetric_e = 0
variable_layer_height = 0
wipe = 0
z_offset = 0

[printer:BIQU B1 Alpha v1]
bed_custom_model =
bed_custom_texture =
bed_shape = 0x0,235x0,235x235,0x235
before_layer_gcode = ;LAYER:[layer_num]
between_objects_gcode =
color_change_gcode = M600
cooling_tube_length = 5
cooling_tube_retraction = 91.5
default_filament_profile = ""
default_print_profile =
deretract_speed = 35
end_gcode = ;BIQU Default End Gcode\nG91 ;Relative positioning\nG1 E-2 F2700  ;Retract a bit\nG1 E-2 Z0.2 F2400  ;Retract a bit more and raise Z\nG1 X5 Y5 F3000 ;Wipe out\nG1 Z10;Raise Z by 10mm\nG90 ;Return to absolute positionning\nG1 X0 Y235  ;TaDaaaa\nM106 S0 ;Turn-off fan\nM104 S0 ;Turn-off hotend\nM140 S0 ;Turn-off bed\nM84 X Y E ;Disable all steppers but Z
extra_loading_move = -2
extruder_colour = ""
extruder_offset = 0x0
gcode_flavor = marlin
high_current_on_filament_swap = 0
host_type = octoprint
inherits =
layer_gcode =
machine_limits_usage = emit_to_gcode
machine_max_acceleration_e = 5000,5000
machine_max_acceleration_extruding = 500,1250
machine_max_acceleration_retracting = 1000,1250
machine_max_acceleration_x = 500,1000
machine_max_acceleration_y = 500,1000
machine_max_acceleration_z = 100,200
machine_max_feedrate_e = 75,120
machine_max_feedrate_x = 500,200
machine_max_feedrate_y = 500,200
machine_max_feedrate_z = 10,12
machine_max_jerk_e = 5,2.5
machine_max_jerk_x = 8,10
machine_max_jerk_y = 8,10
machine_max_jerk_z = 0.4,0.4
machine_min_extruding_rate = 0,0
machine_min_travel_rate = 0,0
max_layer_height = 0
max_print_height = 270
min_layer_height = 0.07
nozzle_diameter = 0.4
parking_pos_retraction = 92
pause_print_gcode = M601
print_host =
printer_model =
printer_notes =
printer_settings_id =
printer_technology = FFF
printer_variant =
printer_vendor =
printhost_apikey =
printhost_cafile =
remaining_times = 0
retract_before_travel = 1.5
retract_before_wipe = 0%
retract_layer_change = 0
retract_length = 3
retract_length_toolchange = 10
retract_lift = 0
retract_lift_above = 0
retract_lift_below = 0
retract_restart_extra = 0
retract_restart_extra_toolchange = 0
retract_speed = 70
silent_mode = 0
single_extruder_multi_material = 0
start_gcode = M220 S100 ;Reset Feedrate\nM221 S100 ;Reset Flowrate\nG28 ;Home\nG92 E0 ;Reset Extruder\nG1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up\nM109 S{first_layer_temperature[0]}; Preheat hotend\nG1 X10.1 Y20 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to start position\nG1 X10.1 Y200.0 Z0.28 F1500.0 E15 ;Draw the first line\nG1 X10.4 Y200.0 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to side a little\nG1 X10.4 Y20 Z0.28 F1500.0 E30 ;Draw the second line\nG92 E0 ;Reset Extruder\nG1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up
template_custom_gcode =
thumbnails =
toolchange_gcode =
use_firmware_retraction = 0
use_relative_e_distances = 0
use_volumetric_e = 0
variable_layer_height = 0
wipe = 0
z_offset = 0

[printer:BIQU B1 Alpha v2]
bed_custom_model =
bed_custom_texture =
bed_shape = 0x0,235x0,235x235,0x235
before_layer_gcode = ;LAYER:[layer_num]
between_objects_gcode =
color_change_gcode = M600
cooling_tube_length = 5
cooling_tube_retraction = 91.5
default_filament_profile = ""
default_print_profile =
deretract_speed = 35
end_gcode = ;BIQU Default End Gcode\nG91 ;Relative positioning\nG1 E-2 F2700  ;Retract a bit\nG1 E-2 Z0.2 F2400  ;Retract a bit more and raise Z\nG1 X5 Y5 F3000 ;Wipe out\nG1 Z10;Raise Z by 10mm\nG90 ;Return to absolute positionning\nG1 X0 Y235  ;TaDaaaa\nM106 S0 ;Turn-off fan\nM104 S0 ;Turn-off hotend\nM140 S0 ;Turn-off bed\nM84 X Y E ;Disable all steppers but Z
extra_loading_move = -2
extruder_colour = ""
extruder_offset = 0x0
gcode_flavor = marlin
high_current_on_filament_swap = 0
host_type = octoprint
inherits =
layer_gcode =
machine_limits_usage = emit_to_gcode
machine_max_acceleration_e = 5000,5000
machine_max_acceleration_extruding = 500,1250
machine_max_acceleration_retracting = 1000,1250
machine_max_acceleration_x = 500,1000
machine_max_acceleration_y = 500,1000
machine_max_acceleration_z = 100,200
machine_max_feedrate_e = 75,120
machine_max_feedrate_x = 500,200
machine_max_feedrate_y = 500,200
machine_max_feedrate_z = 10,12
machine_max_jerk_e = 5,2.5
machine_max_jerk_x = 8,10
machine_max_jerk_y = 8,10
machine_max_jerk_z = 0.4,0.4
machine_min_extruding_rate = 0,0
machine_min_travel_rate = 0,0
max_layer_height = 0
max_print_height = 270
min_layer_height = 0.07
nozzle_diameter = 0.4
parking_pos_retraction = 92
pause_print_gcode = M601
print_host =
printer_model =
printer_notes =
printer_settings_id =
printer_technology = FFF
printer_variant =
printer_vendor =
printhost_apikey =
printhost_cafile =
remaining_times = 0
retract_before_travel = 1.5
retract_before_wipe = 0%
retract_layer_change = 0
retract_length = 7
retract_length_toolchange = 10
retract_lift = 0
retract_lift_above = 0
retract_lift_below = 0
retract_restart_extra = 0
retract_restart_extra_toolchange = 0
retract_speed = 70
silent_mode = 0
single_extruder_multi_material = 0
start_gcode = M220 S100 ;Reset Feedrate\nM221 S100 ;Reset Flowrate\nG28 ;Home\nG92 E0 ;Reset Extruder\nG1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up\nM109 S{first_layer_temperature[0]}; Preheat hotend\nG1 X10.1 Y20 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to start position\nG1 X10.1 Y200.0 Z0.28 F1500.0 E15 ;Draw the first line\nG1 X10.4 Y200.0 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to side a little\nG1 X10.4 Y20 Z0.28 F1500.0 E30 ;Draw the second line\nG92 E0 ;Reset Extruder\nG1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up
template_custom_gcode =
thumbnails =
toolchange_gcode =
use_firmware_retraction = 0
use_relative_e_distances = 0
use_volumetric_e = 0
variable_layer_height = 0
wipe = 0
z_offset = 0

[printer:BIQU B1 Alpha v3]
bed_custom_model =
bed_custom_texture =
bed_shape = 0x0,235x0,235x235,0x235
before_layer_gcode = ;LAYER:[layer_num]
between_objects_gcode =
color_change_gcode = M600
cooling_tube_length = 5
cooling_tube_retraction = 91.5
default_filament_profile = ""
default_print_profile =
deretract_speed = 35
end_gcode = ;BIQU Default End Gcode\nG91 ;Relative positioning\nG1 E-2 F2700  ;Retract a bit\nG1 E-2 Z0.2 F2400  ;Retract a bit more and raise Z\nG1 X5 Y5 F3000 ;Wipe out\nG1 Z10;Raise Z by 10mm\nG90 ;Return to absolute positionning\nG1 X0 Y235  ;TaDaaaa\nM106 S0 ;Turn-off fan\nM104 S0 ;Turn-off hotend\nM140 S0 ;Turn-off bed\nM84 X Y E ;Disable all steppers but Z
extra_loading_move = -2
extruder_colour = ""
extruder_offset = 0x0
gcode_flavor = marlin
high_current_on_filament_swap = 0
host_type = octoprint
inherits =
layer_gcode =
machine_limits_usage = emit_to_gcode
machine_max_acceleration_e = 5000,5000
machine_max_acceleration_extruding = 500,1250
machine_max_acceleration_retracting = 1000,1250
machine_max_acceleration_x = 500,1000
machine_max_acceleration_y = 500,1000
machine_max_acceleration_z = 100,200
machine_max_feedrate_e = 75,120
machine_max_feedrate_x = 500,200
machine_max_feedrate_y = 500,200
machine_max_feedrate_z = 10,12
machine_max_jerk_e = 5,2.5
machine_max_jerk_x = 8,10
machine_max_jerk_y = 8,10
machine_max_jerk_z = 0.4,0.4
machine_min_extruding_rate = 0,0
machine_min_travel_rate = 0,0
max_layer_height = 0
max_print_height = 270
min_layer_height = 0.07
nozzle_diameter = 0.4
parking_pos_retraction = 92
pause_print_gcode = M601
print_host =
printer_model =
printer_notes =
printer_settings_id =
printer_technology = FFF
printer_variant =
printer_vendor =
printhost_apikey =
printhost_cafile =
remaining_times = 0
retract_before_travel = 1.5
retract_before_wipe = 0%
retract_layer_change = 0
retract_length = 4
retract_length_toolchange = 10
retract_lift = 0
retract_lift_above = 0
retract_lift_below = 0
retract_restart_extra = 0
retract_restart_extra_toolchange = 0
retract_speed = 70
silent_mode = 0
single_extruder_multi_material = 0
start_gcode = M220 S100 ;Reset Feedrate\nM221 S100 ;Reset Flowrate\nG28 ;Home\nG92 E0 ;Reset Extruder\nG1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up\nM109 S{first_layer_temperature[0]}; Preheat hotend\nG1 X10.1 Y20 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to start position\nG1 X10.1 Y200.0 Z0.28 F1500.0 E15 ;Draw the first line\nG1 X10.4 Y200.0 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to side a little\nG1 X10.4 Y20 Z0.28 F1500.0 E30 ;Draw the second line\nG92 E0 ;Reset Extruder\nG1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up
template_custom_gcode =
thumbnails =
toolchange_gcode =
use_firmware_retraction = 0
use_relative_e_distances = 0
use_volumetric_e = 0
variable_layer_height = 0
wipe = 0
z_offset = 0

[printer:BIQU B1 Alpha v4]
bed_custom_model =
bed_custom_texture =
bed_shape = 0x0,235x0,235x235,0x235
before_layer_gcode = ;LAYER:[layer_num]
between_objects_gcode =
color_change_gcode = M600
cooling_tube_length = 5
cooling_tube_retraction = 91.5
default_filament_profile = ""
default_print_profile =
deretract_speed = 35
end_gcode = ;BIQU Default End Gcode\nG91 ;Relative positioning\nG1 E-2 F2700  ;Retract a bit\nG1 E-2 Z0.2 F2400  ;Retract a bit more and raise Z\nG1 X5 Y5 F3000 ;Wipe out\nG1 Z10;Raise Z by 10mm\nG90 ;Return to absolute positionning\nG1 X0 Y235  ;TaDaaaa\nM106 S0 ;Turn-off fan\nM104 S0 ;Turn-off hotend\nM140 S0 ;Turn-off bed\nM84 X Y E ;Disable all steppers but Z
extra_loading_move = -2
extruder_colour = ""
extruder_offset = 0x0
gcode_flavor = marlin
high_current_on_filament_swap = 0
host_type = octoprint
inherits =
layer_gcode =
machine_limits_usage = emit_to_gcode
machine_max_acceleration_e = 5000,5000
machine_max_acceleration_extruding = 500,1250
machine_max_acceleration_retracting = 1000,1250
machine_max_acceleration_x = 500,1000
machine_max_acceleration_y = 500,1000
machine_max_acceleration_z = 100,200
machine_max_feedrate_e = 75,120
machine_max_feedrate_x = 500,200
machine_max_feedrate_y = 500,200
machine_max_feedrate_z = 10,12
machine_max_jerk_e = 5,2.5
machine_max_jerk_x = 8,10
machine_max_jerk_y = 8,10
machine_max_jerk_z = 0.4,0.4
machine_min_extruding_rate = 0,0
machine_min_travel_rate = 0,0
max_layer_height = 0
max_print_height = 270
min_layer_height = 0.07
nozzle_diameter = 0.4
parking_pos_retraction = 92
pause_print_gcode = M601
print_host =
printer_model =
printer_notes =
printer_settings_id =
printer_technology = FFF
printer_variant =
printer_vendor =
printhost_apikey =
printhost_cafile =
remaining_times = 0
retract_before_travel = 1.5
retract_before_wipe = 0%
retract_layer_change = 0
retract_length = 4
retract_length_toolchange = 10
retract_lift = 0
retract_lift_above = 0
retract_lift_below = 0
retract_restart_extra = 0
retract_restart_extra_toolchange = 0
retract_speed = 70
silent_mode = 0
single_extruder_multi_material = 0
start_gcode = M220 S100 ;Reset Feedrate\nM221 S100 ;Reset Flowrate\nG28 ;Home\nG92 E0 ;Reset Extruder\nG1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up\nM109 S{first_layer_temperature[0]}; Preheat hotend\nG1 X10.1 Y20 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to start position\nG1 X10.1 Y200.0 Z0.28 F1500.0 E15 ;Draw the first line\nG1 X10.4 Y200.0 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to side a little\nG1 X10.4 Y20 Z0.28 F1500.0 E30 ;Draw the second line\nG92 E0 ;Reset Extruder\nG1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up
template_custom_gcode =
thumbnails =
toolchange_gcode =
use_firmware_retraction = 0
use_relative_e_distances = 0
use_volumetric_e = 0
variable_layer_height = 0
wipe = 0
z_offset = 0

[printer:BIQU B1 Beta v1]
bed_custom_model =
bed_custom_texture =
bed_shape = 0x0,235x0,235x235,0x235
before_layer_gcode = ;LAYER:[layer_num]
between_objects_gcode =
color_change_gcode = M600
cooling_tube_length = 5
cooling_tube_retraction = 91.5
default_filament_profile = ""
default_print_profile =
deretract_speed = 0
end_gcode = ;BIQU Default End Gcode\nG91 ;Relative positioning\nG1 E-2 F2700  ;Retract a bit\nG1 E-2 Z0.2 F2400  ;Retract a bit more and raise Z\nG1 X5 Y5 F3000 ;Wipe out\nG1 Z10;Raise Z by 10mm\nG90 ;Return to absolute positionning\nG1 X0 Y235  ;TaDaaaa\nM106 S0 ;Turn-off fan\nM104 S0 ;Turn-off hotend\nM140 S0 ;Turn-off bed\nM84 X Y E ;Disable all steppers but Z
extra_loading_move = -2
extruder_colour = ""
extruder_offset = 0x0
gcode_flavor = marlin
high_current_on_filament_swap = 0
host_type = octoprint
inherits =
layer_gcode =
machine_limits_usage = emit_to_gcode
machine_max_acceleration_e = 5000,5000
machine_max_acceleration_extruding = 500,1250
machine_max_acceleration_retracting = 1000,1250
machine_max_acceleration_x = 500,1000
machine_max_acceleration_y = 500,1000
machine_max_acceleration_z = 100,200
machine_max_feedrate_e = 75,120
machine_max_feedrate_x = 250,200
machine_max_feedrate_y = 250,200
machine_max_feedrate_z = 10,12
machine_max_jerk_e = 2.5,2.5
machine_max_jerk_x = 8,10
machine_max_jerk_y = 8,10
machine_max_jerk_z = 0.2,0.4
machine_min_extruding_rate = 0,0
machine_min_travel_rate = 0,0
max_layer_height = 0
max_print_height = 270
min_layer_height = 0.07
nozzle_diameter = 0.4
parking_pos_retraction = 92
pause_print_gcode = M601
print_host =
printer_model =
printer_notes =
printer_settings_id =
printer_technology = FFF
printer_variant =
printer_vendor =
printhost_apikey =
printhost_cafile =
remaining_times = 0
retract_before_travel = 1.5
retract_before_wipe = 0%
retract_layer_change = 0
retract_length = 7
retract_length_toolchange = 10
retract_lift = 0
retract_lift_above = 0
retract_lift_below = 0
retract_restart_extra = 0
retract_restart_extra_toolchange = 0
retract_speed = 70
silent_mode = 0
single_extruder_multi_material = 0
start_gcode = M220 S100 ;Reset Feedrate\nM221 S100 ;Reset Flowrate\nG28 ;Home\nG92 E0 ;Reset Extruder\nG1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up\nM109 S{first_layer_temperature[0]}; Preheat hotend\nG1 X10.1 Y20 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to start position\nG1 X10.1 Y200.0 Z0.28 F1500.0 E15 ;Draw the first line\nG1 X10.4 Y200.0 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to side a little\nG1 X10.4 Y20 Z0.28 F1500.0 E30 ;Draw the second line\nG92 E0 ;Reset Extruder\nG1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up
template_custom_gcode =
thumbnails =
toolchange_gcode =
use_firmware_retraction = 0
use_relative_e_distances = 0
use_volumetric_e = 0
variable_layer_height = 0
wipe = 0
z_offset = 0

[printer:BIQU B1 Beta v2]
bed_custom_model =
bed_custom_texture =
bed_shape = 0x0,235x0,235x235,0x235
before_layer_gcode = ;LAYER:[layer_num]
between_objects_gcode =
color_change_gcode = M600
cooling_tube_length = 5
cooling_tube_retraction = 91.5
default_filament_profile = ""
default_print_profile =
deretract_speed = 0
end_gcode = ;BIQU Default End Gcode\nG91 ;Relative positioning\nG1 E-2 F2700  ;Retract a bit\nG1 E-2 Z0.2 F2400  ;Retract a bit more and raise Z\nG1 X5 Y5 F3000 ;Wipe out\nG1 Z10;Raise Z by 10mm\nG90 ;Return to absolute positionning\nG1 X0 Y235  ;TaDaaaa\nM106 S0 ;Turn-off fan\nM104 S0 ;Turn-off hotend\nM140 S0 ;Turn-off bed\nM84 X Y E ;Disable all steppers but Z
extra_loading_move = -2
extruder_colour = ""
extruder_offset = 0x0
gcode_flavor = marlin
high_current_on_filament_swap = 0
host_type = octoprint
inherits =
layer_gcode =
machine_limits_usage = emit_to_gcode
machine_max_acceleration_e = 5000,5000
machine_max_acceleration_extruding = 500,1250
machine_max_acceleration_retracting = 1000,1250
machine_max_acceleration_x = 500,1000
machine_max_acceleration_y = 500,1000
machine_max_acceleration_z = 100,200
machine_max_feedrate_e = 75,120
machine_max_feedrate_x = 250,200
machine_max_feedrate_y = 250,200
machine_max_feedrate_z = 10,12
machine_max_jerk_e = 2.5,2.5
machine_max_jerk_x = 8,10
machine_max_jerk_y = 8,10
machine_max_jerk_z = 0.2,0.4
machine_min_extruding_rate = 0,0
machine_min_travel_rate = 0,0
max_layer_height = 0
max_print_height = 270
min_layer_height = 0.07
nozzle_diameter = 0.4
parking_pos_retraction = 92
pause_print_gcode = M601
print_host =
printer_model =
printer_notes =
printer_settings_id =
printer_technology = FFF
printer_variant =
printer_vendor =
printhost_apikey =
printhost_cafile =
remaining_times = 0
retract_before_travel = 1.5
retract_before_wipe = 0%
retract_layer_change = 0
retract_length = 7.5
retract_length_toolchange = 10
retract_lift = 0.5
retract_lift_above = 0
retract_lift_below = 0
retract_restart_extra = 0
retract_restart_extra_toolchange = 0
retract_speed = 70
silent_mode = 0
single_extruder_multi_material = 0
start_gcode = M220 S100 ;Reset Feedrate\nM221 S100 ;Reset Flowrate\nG28 ;Home\nG92 E0 ;Reset Extruder\nG1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up\nM109 S{first_layer_temperature[0]}; Preheat hotend\nG1 X10.1 Y20 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to start position\nG1 X10.1 Y200.0 Z0.28 F1500.0 E15 ;Draw the first line\nG1 X10.4 Y200.0 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to side a little\nG1 X10.4 Y20 Z0.28 F1500.0 E30 ;Draw the second line\nG92 E0 ;Reset Extruder\nG1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up
template_custom_gcode =
thumbnails =
toolchange_gcode =
use_firmware_retraction = 0
use_relative_e_distances = 0
use_volumetric_e = 0
variable_layer_height = 0
wipe = 0
z_offset = 0

[presets]
print = BIQU B1 - Standard
sla_print =
sla_material =
printer = BIQU B1 (With Z Hop)
filament = BIQU B1 - GSDT - PLA+ Silver


text:
What material best to use for press fit parts?
I am designing some parts that should modular fit together. I am currently exploring a Lego-like design with octagonal holes and cylindrical pins.
I notice that (depending on the amount of clearance) that the fit is initially tight (to the extent that the pieces are very difficult to remove from each other), but that after a few dozen times connecting and disconnecting the parts the fit becomes very loose. I am currently using PLA. With what material would this occur less quickly/is more resistant to this kind of wear?
The sizes of the pins/holes are slightly bigger than Lego (probably similar to Duplo). Don't think that snap-fit would work in that size. Below of a picture of one of the test pieces (this one later printed in PETG).

I have an open printer so I prefer materials that don't require me to build an enclosure first. It is a Prusa i3 MK3S: Direct drive; 1.75 mm filament; max temp 300 °C; heat bed max temp 120 °C.

LEGO(R) is from ABS.

I'm not sure "press fit" is the best description here.

@Caleb Because the objects are repeatedly connected and deconnected and not just connected once? I am open for suggestions. I did do some searching around before asking here, but had problems finding stuff. Probably because I didn't know the right terms (if there are any).

Note, if you print comes out with elephant foot, initially the lower part may be too wide, after use it might be the normal fit. Please check for elephant foot.

@0scar that's why I added a small bevel to the (long) edges of the holes. If you look carefully they are just visible on the photo.

@JanvanderLaan Right -- press fit is a term for a type of interference fit in which the parts are forced together and can't be separated without a great deal of force; gears are often pressed onto shafts, for example. There are a lot of specific terms for different fits, and I don't mean to insist on using them correctly in this informal setting, but "press fit" is probably one that people are familiar with and it doesn't mean "snaps together like Lego."

A flexible material, such as PETG or ABS, is probably the best.  PLA is brittle, especially after absorbing moisture, and probably would crack under continued use.
Nylon is good, but not easy to use.  With PETG in an enclosure, I end up running fans to avoid heat creep; so PETG may actually do better without an enclosure.
If you're printing to flex your print, keep in mind the the x and y axes are stronger than the z-axis, which depends on how well the layers stick together.   PETG tends to stick to the print surface too well; so I use an Elmer's glue stick for it to pull up the glue layer instead of damaging my print surface.

I printed some test parts using PETG; using them for a day and a half as fidget tools, connecting and disconnecting them probably over a 100 times, they have become less tight but still hold well.

PLA and nylon deform over time under stress ("creep"), therefore they will get loose(r) and will snap less effectively together.
See what happens to clips after one day of stretching (respectively nylon, PLA, PETg, ABS):

And if you leave them unstretched, after a while:

PLA permanently deforms a lot. PETG is better than PLA, but ABS or ASA are the best choice for the purpose.
A material simply "flexible" is not necessarily the best choice.

The page you link to seems to suggest that PLA should actually be ok. I would expect this to be more of a problem of wear/abrasion. That still doesn't really explain why PETG does better as PETG is, as far as I know, softer and more prone to abrasion. Perhaps because PLA is harder is loses tiny slivers of its surface while PETG (and probably ABS/ASA) just deforms a little bit

No that page shows that PLA permanently deforms much more than PETG or ABS, meaning that the holes will get slightly wider if you leave the pieces fit together (like LEGO's), and they won't be tightly held anymore. I updated the link the original article, the one above was not showing some pictures to me.

Thanks. This is much clearer. The original page you linked to focused more on the fact that PLA didn't do as bad as expected.

I have added a picture of the current version of the pieces to the question. Seeing those, do you still think that creep is the cause of the PLA pieces not fitting after a while and not wear/abrasion?

Yes abrasion could be the main issue here. PETG will be better, and ABS even more because it's less flexible and your part seems to benefit from a stiff material.

If you're aiming for a Lego-like snap fit, look at Lego parts to see how they work. Using the right material is important, but using it the right way is at least as important. Lego bricks are made so that the walls and tubes can deform very slightly as the studs of another brick are pushed into the brick.
The walls of the octagonal holes in your part appear to be solid. Perhaps they're not really, and underneath the surface layer there's a lesser amount of infill, but infill can provide a lot of strength, and that solid surface will prevent deformation at the entrance of the hole.
Try removing the solid bottom layers and reducing or eliminating the infill in the part so that the walls of your holes can flex more.

PETG, ABS and NYLON would work great for press-fit or snap-fit connections. If you really can't build a (cardboard) enclosure I would go for PETG as it has good repeatable mechanical properties and does not require an enclosure.

PETG seems to work well. And indeed a simple enclosure might be something to try (instead of waiting to find enough time to build a proper one).

to expand on my answer I would suggest to really, really look into the LEGO patent and incorporate a kind of wall and tubes like shape to ensure many connections and disconnections can be made without deforming much.


text:
Use external sensor
I'd like to buy a 3D printer and use it as a "platform" for an external optical sensor. The idea is to mount an optical sensor on the Z-axis and to put a workpiece on the X-Y table.  Now, I'd like to move the sensor across the workpiece and trigger the measurement of the optical sensor. Hence, the 3D printer is not actually printing, but only used as a motion and trigger device for the optical sensors.
I have never used a 3D printer, but I'm afraid that I'll run into several problems:

The standard G-code of "wait one second" is G04 X1 on many CNC machines. Does this code exist on 3D printers as well?
Is it possible to extract a trigger signal (e.g. 5 V) from the 3D printer? Are printers available which provide a G-code for an external trigger? Could anybody suggest a model? I'm happy to pay some extra dollars if I don't have to solder by myself. Of course, a second option would be to use the voltage, which is used to heat the filament.

G4 is the "Dwell" command in Marlin, so you could specify a wait duration using it. Note that the time parameter is designated using S for seconds and/or P for milliseconds:
G4 S1    ; Wait for 1 second

I think you could use the M43 T code to set a pin high/low and act as a trigger signal. This would be coded for and not something that is done as a result of something detected, however:
M43 T S3 R1 W1000    ; Toggle pin 3 once and then wait for a second

The standard G code of "wait one second" is G04 X1 on many CNC machines. Does this code exists on 3D printers as well?

Yes. The exact set of commands supported by a given printer will depend on the firmware, so you should check the documentation for the particular printer you're looking at. But the G04 "Dwell" command is a common one. A list of all the G-code commands for the Marlin firmware, which is widely used, can be found at https://marlinfw.org/meta/gcode/.

Is it possible to extract a trigger signal (e.g. 5V) from the 3D printer? Are printers available which provide a G code for an external trigger?

Marlin supports an M240 command that means "trigger camera," which could probably be used to trigger other sorts of devices too. See: https://marlinfw.org/docs/gcode/M240.html You might also want to look into using OctoPrint to control your printer; there's a plugin (OctoLapse) for making time-lapse photos that might prove useful.


text:
Purchasing a first 3D printer
What is a good entry level 3D printer that you could use while earning to the next level printer?
I found there are so many kinds.

Pick one to research and see if the reviews of it bring up anything that would be a problem for you, or if there are a lot of people complaining about it.

Hi welcome to 3DPrinting.SE! Unfortunately, "first printer" and "best printer" questions cannot be asked here, these are opinion based according to our on-topic section. If the question is to be read what sort of printer should be used for which application, the question should be rewritten to express that.

Just make sure it has direct drive.

This is going to depend on your particular wants and needs.
Initial buy price is a big factor, obviously, but there are some other things to bear in mind:
What are you going to use it for?
If you're going to use it for printing, say, RPG miniatures, you might want to focus on SLA/DLP (resin) printer because they can produce very good detail at small sizes. But entry level SLA/DLP printers tend to have very small print areas.
FDM (filament) printers tend to have larger print areas but they don't tend to be quite as accurate when it comes to reproducing small detail. They have more material choices available to them, though: PLA, ABS, and PETG are sort of the basic three materials that an entry level printer can probably handle.
How much of a "tinkerer" are you?
Some printers are "open source" which means you are able to modify their firmware and/or hardware. For example, you might be able to upgrade the firmware and hot end of an FDM printer to allow you to print more exotic materials like nylon and PEEK.
That ability to tinker and modify your printer is great if that's the kind of thing you value. But it also means you might have to rely less on the manufacturer and more on the community if something goes wrong or you're unsure how to go about doing something with the printer.
How much are you going to use it? / How much room do you have?
The cheapest printer in the world is still too expensive if you never use it. Plus, it takes up space. This is something you really have to keep in mind: printers need space. Even if the printer itself is small, you might need to buy an enclosure for it.
You probably need a workspace nearby to finish your printed parts. I think resin printers need a space to setup a UV curing lamp to fully cure the resin of the printed parts, for example. If you print more than one type of material with an FDM printer, you need a place to store those extra spools of material.

You should check out 3d printing sites like those below to read their reviews because they will offer insights into things that might not even cross your mind to consider:

All3DP
3dsourced
ZDnet
CNet
3Dnatives


text:
Ender 3 v2 won't read or recognize any SD cards
I've just received my Ender 3v2 and tried multiple SD cards, all have been formatted to FAT32 with no luck. Under the Print selection, all I get is the back button. I looked and I have the V4.2.2 and the firmware is up to date, Showing 1.0.2 unless this is not right and this is why I'm having this issue. Even when plugging directly into the computer, nothing is showing up.

Format them as FAT16. How big is the card?

Pretty sure FAT32 works fine. Only exfat or whatever latest junk MS is pushing is a problem. This sounds more like a hardware problem.

We assume your SD card matches the reader as far as HD, xD, etc.  SD cards that are too large can be a problem.

1.0.2 is Creality's unique version/branch of Marlin that they've created. It's a branch of Marlin 2.0 so that is totally fine and compatible with a 4.2.2 board. If you've ruled out cards, it may well be the reader. Can you use something like this to test if you can load files from SD cards using the USB port instead of the reader?

The most recent card is 16gb but I also tried 8gb. And it is a miroSDHC I have not tried using anything to read through the usb port. I'll try that as soon as I can. I'm hoping it's not a hardware problem.

Thank you for your help, unfortunately I ended up reaching out to Creality directly to see if they can help me.

Have you powercycled?

Have you tried the card that came with your printer?  Should be a blue 8 GB "emtec" or something similar in name

Abd to follow along with J Boughtons advice, I've noticed if the word "end" is in the first file, it won't read any of the files.

What helps for me is re-inserting the TF card several times. Indeed, the machine has some trouble reading it, strange because this would seem to be an easy problem compared to the overall design of the printer....

Welcome to 3D Printing SE and thank you for your contribution. When you get a chance, please take the [tour] to understand how the site works and how it is different than others.

Just to be sure - you know that the SD Card reader in an Ender 3 is upside down?  That means the visible contacts on the micro-SD card have to be facing upward.
If someone has forced a card in the wrong-way around, it could have damaged the reader.
Personally, once I got OctoPrint working I never print from microSD card at all.  Not a solution but a workaround.

Oddly, the original version had it right, then for some reason they swapped the orientation of the electronics box on later units.

It was to get the slot away from the table and thus better accessible. This mandated putting all tall components on the one side and flipping the board to be mounted on the ceiling - the tall components facing down. This also simplifies access to the board, no longer you need to remove the top lid awkwardly but access all from below

@Trish: That's hardly simplifying. It requires you to move the printer, possibly knocking things out of alignment, and turn it upside down to get any access. With the original one you can work on it in-place, even while powered up (not recommended for anything more involved than swapping fans in JST ports or similar).

@R..GitHubSTOPHELPINGICE Indeed, it made maintenance in there a hell but the access panel at last is easier to be accessible... you can actually reach the screw and not work around the heated... once you have the machine upside down or on the side.

@Trish: Yeah. On mine you can reach the back screw with the short end of a hex wrench, or a right angle screwdriver adapter, but it's a pain. I just keep that one off, since the front two are plenty to hold the panel on.

I have the same issue but whilst none of these worked for me they have worked for other people:

Make sure the name of the G-code file begins with a letter or number
Make sure the G-code is not in a subfolder
Make sure the name of the G-code file is less than or equal to 8 characters long

After I attempted all of these, reinserting the SD card multiple times worked but I don't know what fixed it or if it was just I had been putting it in wrong though I didn't try anything different.

Do not overlook the possibility of the card not being formatted properly like I did. Make sure it is FAT32 or another supported format.


text:
How to change pin of thermo sensor?
The thermoresistor on my Anycubic Mega displays nonsense temperatures (e.g. 700 °C), since the resistor in the hotend is working fine the problem is 100 % in the board (Trigorilla RAMPS 1.4). Someone suggested switching the pin of the thermoresistor from T0 to T1, so I soldered it this way. Now I have to cook a personalized firmware for making it work. I opened a custom firmware in VSCode but I do not know what parameter I have to change, any idea?

If there are 2 slots for temperature measurements, you don't need to solder anything, just plug the thermistor from one into the other and switch pins in the firmware. This board is basically a RAMPS 1.4 board, it includes the pins_RAMPS.h header file, so in order to switch the T0 with the T1 temperature port, you need to change:
//
// Temperature Sensors
//
#ifndef TEMP_0_PIN
  #define TEMP_0_PIN                          13  // Analog Input
#endif
#ifndef TEMP_1_PIN
  #define TEMP_1_PIN                          15  // Analog Input
#endif

to:
//
// Temperature Sensors
//
#ifndef TEMP_0_PIN
  #define TEMP_0_PIN                          15  // Analog Input
#endif
#ifndef TEMP_1_PIN
  #define TEMP_1_PIN                          13  // Analog Input
#endif

Ok, thanks. I had to solder the pins since there was no way to insert the cable directly into the board, i do not know how to explain it but f you see he inside of the Anycubic Mega you can understand it immediately. I have edited the firmware and build it but it bricked the printer, i think the board its faulty since previously also the bed heating probe stopped working. Thanks by the way.


text:
3D print a paint roller
I was thinking about this question and thought of maybe printing a pattern-drawing roller painter.
The question is: is it possible to print with an ink absorbing material that could make a paint roller possible?
P.S: I don't own a 3D printer, nor have I any deep knowledge in this matter. I simply want to know if this is feasible, so I can start looking for someone to 3D print this for me. If it's not, knowing beforehand could spare me a lot of time.

Hoe large does your stamped on surface needs to be and how accurate does the stamp be placed on the paper? These will largely determine how feasible this is. Please add this info in the question.  And probably also the amount of prints you want, as this will determine if this is more cost effective than just having it printed.

While printing a roller stamp or rubber-roll from a flexible material such as [hard]TPU, [softer] TPE, or even a [super soft] foaming flexible filament is certainly possible. In any case, this would create soft, somewhat squishy prints. These prints will work quite easily as a stamp or woodblock printing stock, transferring ink from a pad to paper. The print pattern will depend a lot on how soft the stamp is: the harder, the sharper it will print. A massive roll of this material can behave akin to a rubber roll as one uses it in linoleum printing.
A foaming filament might be able to take a little paint in its airgaps, but it will never be as soft and contain as much paint as a foam lacquer roll - making it at best an improvised tool, or one that is chosen for a specific artistic purpose. It behaves more akin to closed-cell foam, while foam brushes and rolls from artist supply are typically open-cell ones. So if you go for a roller-stamp, you'll need to have an ink reservoir in the shape of a soaky-roller that isn't printed.
To top it off, it is nearly impossible to print a hairy wall painting roller: the hairs used in them can't be achieved with common print materials and slicers at the time. Even if stringing creates hair of similar dimensions, they are not affixed well enough to not get lost in the paint and can't be reliably created on demand.
Notes on pricing: One of the few options for foaming print materials is colorFabb, who was the first to offer such. Most of their foaming filaments cost around 50 €/kg, their flexible NinjaFlex costs about 80 €/kg.

Not really.
It's possible to 3D print in materials like TPE that are rubbery. In theory, one could print a sheet of the pattern and then wrap that sheet around a roller. That would be expensive, though, and I doubt TPE would absorb enough paint/ink to lay down an good and even coat.
As pointed out in the comments,there is one of foaming TPU filament (Varioshore TPU that might be able to achieve the kind of soft, spongy feel that a paint roller would need but it's expensive and, I suspect, soft but not particularly absorbent in the way you would need.
I have no direct experience with it, though, so I can't say for sure. For the price and amount of time that would be required to get a print roller produced the way you need, I think you'd be better off buying a custom pattern roller/brayer or making one yourself.
I imagine you could achieve this by getting a sheet of stamp pad foam and plotting it with a CNC cutter (or cutting it by hand) and then taping/gluing it around a tube.

I thought of that stamp pad sheet, but I am concerned about it being too soft for drawing a fine line circle, and end up drawing blurry circles instead.

I'm talking about huge pieces of paper (3m long). Printing on regular sheets and then assemblying them together is just unfeasible.

Oh. I thought you just needed the pattern on one A0 parent sheet. (You might want to clarify that in your other question). Using a roller for that wouldn't be feasible anyway since it would run out of ink/paint long before you got to the end. Best option would be to have a sign/blueprint shop use their plotter (with a pen instead of a blade) draw the pattern for you. That's how they make templates for installing signs where each letter is a separate piece.

Foaming filament exists, maybe that will work

@Rykara I mentioned A0 paper because it was the closest thing to what I have to print on that I believe people would be familiar with.

It might be possible to directly print something like this, however it might not be the easiest method. Let me unpack that a bit.
The issue for 3D printed foams is that, even the low density foams, such as the ones from ColorFabb, still are fairly high density on the scale of foams. (they are about 50% as dense as solid filament when expanded. They are also great materials, side note, just not for this application) They are also what is called "closed cell" which means, while they have hollow spaces inside them, those spaces are closed off from each other. This makes them not very useful for things like holding paint, because the effective surface area is not substantially different from a solid part.
There are alternatives, materials out there which print solid but contain a fraction of soluble material. So you print, and then post process to dissolve away those elements, resulting in a high-porosity filament. Something like Poro-lay might work. (you can find it for purchase HERE)
There might be an easier path here though, and that would be to use 3D printing as an intermediate step. 3D print the design of the roller you want, and use it as a mouldmaster. Pour a silicone or urethane mould material over it, making yourself a mould into which you can then cast any of a wide variety of different rubber or foam materials to make your roller. 3D printing as an intermediate step, rather than end-use-part, is very very powerful in that way.
With all of this, chemical compatibility between your paint and end material should be kept in mind. Some paints contain solvents which will attack various foams, plastics, etc.
Finally, while this is digressing from the realm of 3D printing, there is one more solution I might consider exploring. A C02 laser will cut, or engrave, the felt on most paint rollers. If you can find someone with a rotary axis who is willing, they can simply cut/engrave the felt/foam of a factory paint roller into whatever pattern you like. (this is how the CUSTOM RUBBER ROLLERS linked in @Rykara's post were made) It wouldn't actually be terribly difficult, however you'd probably want to experiment on a couple different rollers to ensure the effect is what you want.
I hope that helps. :)

I'm relatively new to 3D printing, but I know some stuff. If you really wanted to print a paint roller with a pattern, I would actually go with nylon or TPR. TPE is okay, but I find that it is less cushy. I would highly suggest buying your own printer for this project. It would be much more cost effective in not only the long run, but for testing different materials. 3D printing services get pricey, so choose your printer wisely. If you do decide to buy your own printer, I would go with an Ender 3 pro. Mine is very smooth, and has an easy-to-use interface.