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Auto Homing issue (Z-axis ignores endstop but individually homing each axis there is no problem)
I'm experiencing an issue with the auto homing where the Z-axis will ignore the endstop when I use the auto home button in Pronterface. Strangely, homing the axes individually I don't seem to have any issues, but when I use G28 or home the axes sequentially I observe the Z-axis motors to continue moving the gantry down despite definitely having hit the Z-endstop. Below is a link to a video demonstrating this issue:

Triggering the Z-endstop manually (with my finger) the M119 command shows "TRIGGERED". I tested, starting from a high Z position and descending towards the endstop, manually triggering the endstop (with my finger) and I observed the Z-axis motors stop.
I used Marlin Bugfix 2.0.9.3.x preconfigured release from BTT's GitHub corresponding to this board (BTT SKR 3 EZ), only changing things like motor direction and build area so as to correspond to the printer.
I am able to copy/paste the configuration.h file if that will help.

P.S. a bubble level is useless for levelling the printer, see here.

For anyone looking I figured out what the issue was. Turns out that I had miswired the JST connectors coming from the switch to the board, having not double-checked and proceeding to connect wires to the board from the switch based on the color of the wires and my assumptions (black to ground, red to VCC, other color to signal). Actually for my switches black was VCC, red was signal, and the other color was ground. Thankfully it seems the board isn't worse for wear despite my errors in wiring previously, and now the printer is functional.

Thanks for posting the answer and glad you found it. I have never heard or had experience with such an issue, strange it worked individually but not sequentially. Please don't forget to accept the answer after 48 hours!

Thanks Oscar I appreciate that, and will mark as complete the answer I submitted. Yeah this is the first time this happened for me but I'm glad despite my mistakes the board is still good. I saw your comment earlier about using the bubble level and I agree, just used it for coarsely resetting the position after experiencing the issue with the Z-axis motors and endstop.


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Filament Problem: Benchy example

What could be going wrong here? I have never seen this sort of printing problem before or I am just not recognizing it.
It most definately is coming from the filament because I have tried switching the filament and other filament prints fine - everything else staying the same. The filament that is causing this printed fine for about 70% of the spool and then started to print like you can see here in the ships body and a bit on the top.
PS. I had the idea that this might be a feeding problem and investigated the feed mechanism. There is definately a problem as I found a horrible filament dust buildup there. This is probably causing problems with the filament feed which is why sometimes there is just not as much as there should be.
Is this dust buildup a fault of the filament? I just unpacked the spool two days ago (SUNLU). I printed two other spools of SUNLU filament without any problems - but they were from a different shipment. The one causing the problem came with a cardboard spool, not the usual plastic one.

Sure it's the same type of material? If the hot end isn't hot enough to melt, I could see it having a problem trying to push the filament through the hot end.

It is the same type of filament and also from the same company (SUNLU).
I have been reading up on problems that can cause this kind of dust buildup and have had the similar idea as you: I will try the gray PLA again with 10 or 20°C more.
The strange thing is that it printed fine for about half of the first spool... but if increasing the temperature fixes it that's fine with me.

Ok... so the problem was not the nozzle or the temperature. I tried pushing the grey filament though manually and that worked fine. I changed to the blue filament and the feeding worked fine without me pushing, at normal temperature and the same nozzle.
When I changed back to gray the feeding mechanism just couldn't grip it again. (clicking sound, nothing coming out when extruding)
This time I cleaned the feeding mechanism with acetone also and straightened the end of the filament a bit.
Now it is printing fine at normal PLA temperature. I still have 2 full spools of the gray... lets see.

Cheap filament will clog your printer. Nothing new. Keep cleaning it, or buy something proper.

source: Stack Exchange

license: Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/

sort: votes


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No filament extrusion using G-code from Ultimaker Cura
I am trying to print some objects using an Ultimaker 2+ Connect that is available at my work.
It has a slicer with a web interface and that works fine, but it has some limitations that I am trying to work around.
So I downloaded Ultimaker Cura and tried to use that instead. Unfortunately the files that it generates don't work.
The printer loads it and starts printing as expected, but no filament is extruded. Do any of you have a hint as to what is going wrong?

Working G-code
Non-working G-code (Cura)

Is the extruder moving at all in the non-working version? I'm guessing it's an absolute vs relative position mode of the extruder.

@LarryBud Yes, it appears to move exactly as it should. Just doesn’t extrude any filament. I experimented and replaced the start and end of the non-working file with the start and end of the working one and then it printed correctly, so it must be something in the start up sequence.

Yes, then it's the absolute vs relative position mode of the extruder. I would suggest making a super simple model, one which draws a straight line for 1mm, slice it in both, and see the difference.  Make sure you have the correct printer selected in Cura so that the startup code is correct.

all_licenses: Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/


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Ender 3 Pro not auto homing
I have had my Ender 3 Pro for roughly a year now and have decided to make some upgrades.
I recently upgraded to a BLTouch and silent board. I am having a problem auto homing where the printer does its usual homing process until it gets to the z axis. It simply doesn't move and displays "STOPPED" on the screen.
Any ideas?

Clearly something whent wrong in the "upgrade" process. You should provide more information on the upgrades you have performed. Especially, how the BLTouch is connected and configured in firmware. If you have fixed the issue by now, maybe add the answer so others may learn from it. Thanks!

I would revisit and start again on your firmware. Sounds to me as if the printer is getting confused as to which Z Endstop it should be looking at.


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Auto Bed Leveling does not compensate for bed tilt correctly (Anycubic Kobra Neo)
Setup: Anycubic Kobra Neo (Firmware v1.3.3), Cura 5.2.1
I recently bought an Anycubic Kobra Neo.
It works but has issues with auto bed leveling. Specifically, auto bed leveling does not compensate for bed tilt in X and Y directions correctly. After running the auto leveling, the printer consistently prints higher up in the right back corner, compared to the front left corner of the build plate.
The problem does not seem to be related to auto bed leveling being disabled though. While printing, you can see the Z lead screw turning, so the printer definitely tries to compensate for something.
What I tried:

Print Z calibration patterns
Run auto leveling again using the attached controller
Run auto leveling again with the G29 command and prior G28 to home, followed by M500 to save the mesh
Add M420 S1 to start G-code (also tried M420 L and both together)
Reset EEPROM with M502
Use Repetier Host instead of Cura
Used different filament

It could depend on the way the leveling mesh is implemented, is it a mesh or straight mean plane through the measured points. How many probings do you see, 3, 9, 16, 25?

@0scar From what I can tell looking at the firmware it does 25 point bilinear mesh leveling.

Maybe you could change to a different leveling process, e.g. UBL or MBL and edit the mesh yourself to see if you can get it closer.

@0scar Is there a way to change to a different leveling process without flashing a different firmware?

That is not possible

Have you found a solution for this? I'm having same issue and been at it for like 5 months and still no level bed

Unfortunately not. I found it helps to print things centered, but i still have not solved the problem. Please let me know if you manage to solve it!

I've just been through the same problem using the flex bed on the Kobra Max, but it was there with the glass before as well, it was just a little better.
Some problems I did notice:

When you remove the plastic cover on the printer head, you will notice the strain gauge is already stressed by some wire pushing on the heat sink. If you tie the cover aside to make sure it can blow on the heat sink without adding stress on it and you do the calibration, it improved the results for me.
Something bad I did notice is that by power cycling the printer and redoing the nozzle touching step at the beginning of the leveling process, the pressure required to light the red led was not the same at all from time to time. So I guess the strain gauge is probably calibrating on power on but not in a reliable way obviously.

When I put the plastic cover back in place on the printer head, I could not have the red LED (on the strain gauge PCB) to stay off so there is something pushing on it while it is tightened so it has to be less sensitive when it's assembled (IMO). I could not yet find what is pushing on it, I would have to sit inside the box to see...

After having the leveling done without the plastic cover on the printer's head and having power cycled the printer until the nozzle touching step was the most sensitive before the leveling, all my test squares near the outside of the bed were good but the ones in the middle were much thinner.

What seems to be the major problem in this leveling process is that it is doing its leveling process at a fixed temperature (60 °C). So if your bed has to reach 100 °C for ABS, for example, the aluminum heating bed will expand but not the cold steel bracket holding it underneath, so the bed gets higher in the middle.

If you succeed to get even tests around your bed and only the ones in the middle are thinner, try to print with the bed at 60 °C (same temp as its leveling) and it will be perfect :). But yes, I know you want the bed at 100 °C for ABS. For this, I have no fix, they will have to update their firmware so we can level at any temp.

The issue seems to be mostly left/right.
The cause is a twisted X extrusion or rail together with a probe which has a X and Y offset compared to the nozzle, therefore it reads wrong values.
See https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/22791
If you cannot correct the mesh manually, try to straighten the axis, or add a counterweight behind the axis as heavy as the toolhead.


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Slow down a specific set of extruder moves
I'm printing a keychain. In fact, I'll soon be printing a LOT of these keychains (they'll be available to everyone at a school).
After a couple test prints everything looks good... except for one little issue. During the first layer, there's a problem with the first wall extrusion for the eye hole the metal keyring will eventually pass through. Being so small, it doesn't like to adhere to the bed.
I could probably resolve this by tightening up the bed level. However, I already like the level position for the rest of the print, and from experience I know going much tighter will start to make it difficult to remove items or even leave grooves in the print mat. I could also resolve this by slowing the down the first layer... and if it were just one key chain that's what I'd do. But for a few hundred of these I'd like to see if I can optimize this some more. As it is, it adds 20 seconds or so to a print that's otherwise only 10 minutes long. It's enough to add up.
I've also been through the G-Code in a text editor, but so far I haven't been able to identify the moves in question.
Is there a way I can slow down just one set of extrusion moves?

You can use G-code M220 (Set Feedrate Percentage).
You need to first identify the part that needs to be printed slowly, an online G-code interpreter can help you visualize this. Once located, insert the G-code to store the current value with M220 B, change to a lower speed M220 S20, print the key ring part and restore the speed to the stored value M220 R.


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Installing a temperature probe... what kind of adhesive to use?
I am trying to install a new Dragonfly hotend on my Ender 3.
I bought some epoxy which advertised high thermal conductivity, but I've found it difficult to use.  It was thick, so it was very hard for me to get the very thin probe ends into the relatively large hole filled with epoxy, especially if I want to be careful of air gaps (which I have no way of checking for.)
The problem was so bad I actually bought a new hotend.  What materials or techniques can you suggest to get the probe installed faithfully?

Could you explain why you want to use an adhesive? Generally they are screwed in or on, if you are using a glass bead you could consider thermal paste. But this heater block needs a thermistor using a 3 mm metal cartridge/shell. So please update the question and preferably add images.

the standard these days is a metal cartridge, glass thermosensors are very fragile.

Don't forget that everything is relative.  In addition to high conductivity to the item you wish to measure, you can aim for low heat transfer to everything else.  This is achieved via insulation.  That means if you have a simple metal contact, you can then goop insulative adhesive behind it all as long as the goop does not come in between.  This can have the additional benefit of increased efficiency from the additional insulation.


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I want to change default start position to the center of Creality CR 10 Smart Pro
Currently my 3D printer starts all projects from the lower left corner of the heatbed. I want to change the default setting to make the center of the heatbed the default position.
However, I have not found any documentation on how to do this. Can you help?

Why you want to do that, please explain, that makes no sense at all. Your project starts where you slice it. You can change it, but you need to change the firmware. And if you have done so you need to change the settings of the slicer also.

Isn't this set within whatever sliver you use, and the position of the piece on the bed?

Technically, Recalibrating Home-position may answer your question: you re-define 0 as the central bed position via trial and error, and need to swap the slicer to treat center of bed as 0 (which is a machine setting in cura)

My initial comment was meant to ask for an explanation why you want to set the origin in the middle of the bed, this is absolutely unnecessary, but you can do it. It is most certainly not a duplicate as it requires the firmware to be differently setup, e.g. use define BED_CENTER_AT_0_0. Only when this is set the firmware will work with half size bed length and width as you now need half bed sizes to go in positive and negative direction. Also the slicer needs to be adjusted for a center bed setup. This needs to be reopened, comments cleaned and the OP to add some additional info.

@Trish, please recheck your double upvoted comment, this is not how you put the origin in the center of the bed, please look into the Marlin sources. As it stands, you shift the origin to the middle, from where it uses the full bed width and length and can harm the printer as the effective print area is then a quarter of the bed surface. Referring to duplication is wrong and needs to be re-addressed.


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Can’t seem to tune out surface zits
I have an Ender 3 that I have been learning for about a month now. I’ve just started to print with PLA silk. I’ve managed to get some quite nice prints out of standard PLA and also PETG. Maybe it’s just the glossiness of the silk that is highlighting these surface zits.
I’ve already tuned my E-steps, and have done temp towers, retraction test towers, and flow tests but just can’t seem to nail what is giving me these blemishes. I’m using a .6 mm nozzle, temp tower showed 195 °C for the nozzle, 60 °C for the bed. Printing at .2 mm layer height and 50 mm feed rate.
Everything is stock except for an all-metal extruder and a BLTouch.
There seem to be a lot of profiles for Cura floating around and I tried them but most of them seem to be tailored to the standard .4 mm nozzle.

Is power loss recovery enabled? If so, try disabling it and see if that fixes your problem.

Have you lowered the speed? With a bigger nozzle and similar speed at 0.4 mm nozzle your flow may be too large to be dealt with by your hot end. The quality of the print is under par, there is a lot of material "missing" ending up in a blob.

I tried adjusting speed and it didn’t seem to change. I then noticed that the Bowden tube was moving at the extruder. I’ve fixed that now and am trying again.

Buy a better printer (Sorry, I'm going to be that guy). Judging by the visibility of the horizontal lines on your piece, the print is already painful to look at. This happens due to fluctuating temperatures. Ender 3 is for beginners learning to print who aren't sure if they want to invest in the new hobby, people on a budget who use it once a month, or people who want to mess around with firmware and play around with the code. Ender 3 prints like garbage, sorry, it's just the truth. If you're serious about printing: upgrade.

Buy high-quality PLA filament. Stay clear from cheap Amazon stuff, that will only clog your nozzle. This is probably the source of the blobs. Buy black or colorless PLA or live with the problems other colors might and will bring, especially glossy, glittery, fancy stuff.

Check Shell > Outer before Inner Walls in Cura.

Adjust Speed > Outer Wall Speed. Anything under 60 mm/s is fine.

As a last resort: Reduce the flow rate. In Cura under Material > Flow, or Outer Wall Flow. Not by too much though.

If the blobs show up in a certain pattern (it does not appear so), indeed turn off **Power Loss Recovery as the comment suggested. If they appear random (from what I see in the photos), there's no need to turn off that feature whatsoever.

Also, you'll want to increase your retraction speed and perhaps also retraction amount (both under Travel in Cura) judging by that stringing.

Thanks for the tips. I am only starting with 3d printing and am enjoying a basic cheap machine I can play around with. I have found a couple of issues that weren’t helping my cause, loose Bowden tube at extruder and Y axis had movement in the rollers.
The prints have been better but I have just finished printing a Satsana fan shroud and direct extruder mod to see if that helps with ease of tuning.
On a side note, my firmware allows firmware retraction, I want to use this so I can tune retraction mid print. Do I have to disable the retraction in the Cura?

No, don't disable retraction. If anything, speed it up.

@TerryDunn - I have the same set up as you, and my first thought was that you need to tighten your y axis nuts (which it sounds like you did.) this will help the layer lines you have.  With respect to the blobs, I suspect it is the filament, I have printed about 14 rolls of filament, mostly pla, but some PETG and tpu, and one roll was full of those zits and blobs and I tried everything suggested here and about a hundred more things.  Nothing fixed it and I eventually gave up, and was very happy when the next role of filament showed ZERO blobs.

Thanks everyone for your comments. I noticed that a couple of things were not assembled correctly so I basically stripped the printer down and meticulously assembled everything again. Because this was a secondhand printer, and it was my first look at one, I had no idea how stable it should be. After correct assembly, the printer is moving so much better. A combination of fixing this and storing my filament in a sealed container with desiccant for a few days, has improved my prints immensely.

I have added a Satsana fan shroud and direct extruder. I’m beginning to wonder if it’s just this filament. I have done test retraction towers using firmware retraction so I can make adjustments mid print and have tried retraction distances from .5mm to 5mm and still can’t eliminate stringing. It’s better, but still there. I have also tried test temp towers and still can’t eliminate it. I haven’t printed anything that will show surface zits and blobs, so I don’t know if that has improved. It’s a new roll but I still put it in the oven at 45-50 for 4 hours to see if that helped, it didn’t.

Hi Terry. It good that you've managed to improve your prints. However, I'm not sure whether: (A) this is a definitive answer, or; (B) rather an update to your question (as you seem to say that the issue still persists, although to a lesser extent). If the latter is true, then this is information really just an update and should be edited into your question (assuming that you are still hoping for someone to provide an actual solution) and this answer deleted. However, if the former is true then please leave this answer as it stands and mark it as the accepted answer. Thanks.

@Terry Dunn - I have to go all the way to 6.0mm and 45mm/s sometimes even 6.5mm and 50mm/s for retraction to get rid of stringing for some filaments, keep adjusting you will get there.  (This is assuming that you have not gone to a direct drive system yet). Oops, I see you have direct drive - never mind

Change seam to User defined, then to back right Also Adjust your retraction settings.

Could you please explain why making these changes would fix the OP's problem?

Please [edit] and expand upon your answer. Where are these settings to which you refer (maybe include the menus and/or a screenshot of the settings). Look at the other answer to see what instructions would be helpful/useful. Also, try to fix its readability (i.e. the grammar) - is there meant to be a full stop between "right" and "Also", or between "Also" and "Adjust"? The double capital letters and lack of a full stop make your answer rather difficult to interpret.


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Stringing on Anycubic Vyper
I recently bought a Anycubic Vyper which prints overall not bad but has a real nasty issue with stringing.
I tried out several temperatures, settings for retract distances and retraction speed but nothing seems to really work. All of my filament is new and stringing occurs with different brands so it does not seem to be caused by the filament.
When the nozzle heats up there is molten filament coming out of the nozzle even the extruder is not doing anything at all.
Is there something I can try to fix the stringing apart from taking the hotend apart?
Retraction tower with different retract-values:

Retract test which shows the stringing:

I'm not sure if it is relevent but do the three photos show any particular stringing at certain temperatures or settings? That is to say, the images seem to shown different amounts of stringing, especially the first image, when compared to the other two. If so, could you [edit] your answer and add anything that might be relevent to the image descriptions and image hover tags. It might help to pin point the issue.

Is the temperature for the retraction tower the same for all layers? It looks as of the upper part is printed hotter or at a different speed.

Thanks for the answers. In this special case the printer had a hardware-defect,so I had to send it back.
I don't know which part in detail was defect but the hotend was switched off in the middle of the print, so either the hotend or something at the mainboard.

Please accept your answer, else the question will pop up once in a while to the top of the active questions list. Thanks!

You have a retraction test tower, but consider that a temperature tower is also a useful reference. Your nozzle temperatures may be excessive, especially if you have a substantial oozing from the nozzle when idle.
Consider also that your filament may need drying despite being "fresh out of the box." There are quite a few anecdotes with supporting photos of users printing tests with fresh filament, along with a matching photo of the same test printed after drying the filament in a food dehydrator.


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Conical scaling in OpenSCAD or Blender
Looking for a way to taper an imported STL model off toward the bottom (or top, if easier).
The same transformation would turn a straight cylinder into a cone.
The intent is to make a vase like the model in the image that tapers off so it will fit as an outer layer to my clay pots.
The model is symmetric around the XZ and YZ plane and only has positive z values.
I assume this would require some non-linear transformation, but I'm unable to find results when googling.

Consider to provide a link to the code, or if it's not particularly large, edit your post to include it in a code block. It's tough to recognize how you've created this model.

It's an imported stl-file

I don't know in Openscad. But since the question has been up for a couple of days, would you be helped by how to do it in Blender instead? It would be quite easy with proportional editing with a linear falloff. I can write a full answer if you ad "or Blender" to the question. If I do it now I may get flagged for not answering the question.

Sure, very kind! I know nothing about blender and will probably just crunch the stl-file myself programatically.
But it could be helpful to someone else I guess.

To install Blender go to Blender.org and download the version for your platform.
No need to install just extract and run "Blender"
to enable importing stl files go to edit -> preferences
in the addons tab search for stl, check the box.

Now import your stl:
File -> Import -> STL(.stl)(experimental)
and select your file
You may need to zoom out quite a bit because of the scale.
Do this with the mouse wheel, while the pointer is over the view where the part is. Or with View -> frame all

If the part is not selected (it has no orange outline) select it by clicking on it.
And go into "edit mode" by hitting TAB
Now rotate the model so you can see the bottom plane.
Hold the middle mouse button and drag.
If all vertices are selected when you open the model, hit "a" twice quickly to deselect all.
Select the bottom vertices by shift clicking them.
Now comes the actual conical scaling
Activate "proportional editing" By hitting "o" or clicking the icon, and select linear in the drop-down menu.

Scale by hitting "s" and moving the mouse but do not click yet

Now hit "Shift z" This will constrain scaling to the xy plane.
You will see a circle that indicates the region of influence of the proportional edit. Adjust it to your linking with the mouse wheel, and click to confirm. Or if you want a precise ratio type for instance 0.8 and hit enter to confirm.

TAB to exit edit mode.
Check that only your object is selected. If other objects are orange, hit "a" twice to deselect all and select your object bay clicking.
And finally File -> Export -> STL
Give it a different name than the original check "Selection Only" and "Export stl"

Since the instructions were so good and blender is less than 200 Mb I gave it a try.
Worked a treat!
Big thank you!


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Plastic for casting?
You mix 10 % clay with 90 % quartz sand, fill a wooden box 1/3, then insert your wax model which includes a funnel, then fill the rest of the box with more clay and quartz sand. After heating to about 90 °C, the wax will melt and flow out of a hole in the bottom. Then you can cast aluminum from the top.
Except I want to do this with 3D printed plastic, not wax. What material would be suited for this?

Have you seen this question?

Great answers, thank you. So either get a resin printer and directly print wax (expensive), or print a negative and cast paraffin wax into it after heating to 50C

You're welcome, does this previously shared question answer your question? If so, we can mark it a duplicate!

Sure, you can close the question


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Blobs/Goop that block extruder in prints
Sorry if this is something obvious, as I am new to 3D Printing and could not figure out why this is happening.
Just switched to Cura from Simply3D as well as initially from FlashPrint as I wanted to be able to do more advanced stuff, which Cura provides (i.e. different infills per area via support blockers, etc...).
I tried matching the settings from S3D and FP as close as possible, but I am missing something. The same STL prints fine with S3D and FP [same PLA and Temps], but when I slice it with Cura, I sometimes get random blobs that expand around the extruder and stop the print. Is there some setting I am doing wrong?
Any help with what I am doing wrong would be greatly appreciated.

Hi and welcome to 3DPrinting.SE! Does the printer stop and extrude to produce the blob or is it accumulated during printing until it reaches a point and gets stuck? It looks as if the printer stopped moving and extruded the blob at once. Please explain by [edit].

Not sure; it works for a few hours, then does it. I will put a camera on the next print I do and record the process.

Printing via Sd Card ? or with USB cable? I have seen my flashforge printers do something like this while printing with USB Cable connected from laptop. Is there cura project that we can take a look at it? If s3d can able to print, thats because you have chosen right firmware, but in cura have you done same? Sharing some more info will help us to debug on why its happening with cura.

I think it was USB, I now copy to local storage, and stuff works better. TY for the help.


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Square gaps and overlapping grid infill artillery sidewinder x1
I'm trying to print something that's very wide and flat, like a board that covers the entire build plate (300x300) but is only 15 layers high. I've chosen grid infill and it works at the front left corner of the printer, but at the back right corner, some of the infill lines get all squashed together and overlap.
At first I thought it was skipping infill lines, but I realized those same lines that are smashed at the top right corner even out at the bottom left and print as expected. It's as if the angle isn't quite right in the G-code and as the nozzle progresses along the plate it gets just a fraction of a degree off, which makes an exacerbated effect when the line it needs to print is so long. But why only on those parts of the print? The printer seems to think that one line is right next to the other line, when in reality there's almost a 1 cm gap!
How do I eliminate those square gaps and make the gridlines straight?
I'm on an Artillery Sidewinder x1.

A remarkable observation is that the grid infill lines on the right (of where some of the gridlines taper) are parallel to the to the left of the tapered infill lines. I doubt this to be a slicer issue, but maybe you could share the G-code file for us to take a look? It is hard to imagine the issue is related to hardware missing steppes as a result of some kind of obstruction as the grid line recover to the correct pattern, this really got my head spinning.

I think I may have found part of the problem. I had been messing with the settings in my slicer to let me print using the entire bed and I had accidentally shifted the model and it allowed it to be sliced which told the printer to print too far off to the right of the bed. The machine had to interpret how to print locations that its hardware wasn't capable of and this was what it decided to do.

Please make it a (partial) answer!

I think I may have found part of the problem. I had been messing with the settings in my slicer to let me print using the entire bed and I had accidentally shifted the model and it allowed it to be sliced which told the printer to print too far off to the right of the bed. The machine had to interpret how to print locations that its hardware wasn't capable of and this was what it decided to do.


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15x15 mesh returns ridiculous values
So I've followed the wonderful tutorial here and managed to modify the Anycubic firmware to include more mesh points to probe for (I've set it to have a 15x15 grid because I'm printing a large scale project on my Kobra Plus and the first layer has to be immaculate, which it isn't due to highly warped bed). It went through the 30 minute or so time needed for this auto bed levelling with this larger grid, and all seemed okay, but then before printing I decided to connect the printer to Pronterface and actually get values that it stored from this procedure with the M420 V command, and... disaster. Values on X and Y from 4th to 11th are mostly zero, with some displaying ridiculously large numbers (I get that I have a warped bed, but not that much, haha). Now I do know that Marlin supports up to 15x15 grids, and the EEPROM of the Kobra Plus clearly has space for that since the grid returned has all 225 values, but there seems an issue where they are stored in these "slots" improperly. Is there maybe something that I'm missing or something else besides the #define GRID_MAX_POINTS_X definition that also has to be modified/enabled when changing the grid size?
After printer restart M420 V returns "mesh invalid." (quite obviously, I'd say)

It looks like an issue with storage specifically. I used G29 from pronterface and it returned realistic values all-round. It's when you send M500 and then try to print the mesh with M420 V, then it returns these ridiculous values. Confirmed this with M420 C, then M500 and M420 V.
Same thing: Normal values, sent to storage, ridiculous values pulled. After reboot of the printer, there seems to be no mesh data at all.

This would be excellent to post in the Marlin GitHub, they might know if there are issues with large grids, if not you found a bug! Note that [11, 3] has an "infinite" (or at least very large) number. This makes you wonder if these floats are missing the scientific exponent? E.g. is [0, 0] -2.165 E-02? It doesn't explain the large positive and negative numbers though...

It looks like an issue with storage specifically. I used G29 from pronterface and it returned realistic values all-round. It's when you send M500 and then try to print the mesh with M420 V, then it returns these ridiculous values. Confirmed this with M420 C, then M500 and M420 V. Same thing: Normal values, sent to storage, ridiculous values pulled. After reboot of the printer, there seems to be no mesh data at all.

Hi Eugene and welcome. If you can, it might be a good idea to copy and paste the text from the log file into the post and format it using code formatting - rather than just a screenshot. This is because text in an image is not searchable, whereas pasted text is. Thanks.

If it is an SKR board and an old Marlin version, storage of variables doesn't work. I can't remember from which version it works, but this could be the case. I wonder why this printer series is so special that normal Marlin doesn't work.


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Printer can't read my G-code file
I've been trying to print a part through an SD card, but my printer doesn't show my G-code file.
I thought the SD card was not working but then I tried printing an old file I had and it's working just fine.
So I am wondering what can be wrong?
I also tried to change the name of the file to redo the converting from STL to G-code and nothing seems to work...

Can you share the file for us to look into? These are plain text files, so can you share through the PasteBin website?

Hello, thanks for your answer I finally was able to solve the problem. seems like the name of the file was too long that's why it was not appearing on the printer.

Great you solved the problem! Please add your solution as an answer and accept the answer after 48 hours! Happy printing!


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Travel path line appeared and I can't make it disappear
This line has started to appear on my prints. I've tried to revert the settings I've changed back to my original settings but the line is still there. The previous prints didn't have this line as far as I can remember. What could possibly cause this problem? I didn't use any supports or build plate adhesion. It is annoying because those lines also appear on the prints.

I'm new to 3D printing so if I asked wrong question or you need any additional printing settings let me know.

"This line has started to appear on my prints." - This probably isn't a line but more likely stringing due to improper retraction settings as mentioned by 0scar in his answer.

The line in question is a travel line, so no extrusion is deliberately done there. So, if you see that filament is being deposited, your retraction settings are incorrect.
Generally, a blob is generated at the origin (or the last point after leveling) and proper retraction and travel speed should be in place to prevent filament to leak during the travel to the first printing position.
You should check your start G-code and look for retraction and speed of travel. A larger retraction and higher feed rate for travelling may prevent the deposition of filament.
Remember that the higher the temperature of the filament, the more easy it flows out of the nozzle. If you are printing hotter, or with a different material that is more fluid at the same temperature, you run into these problems.

I've tried to do that with some random gcode from the github but the "line" was still there. In the end I've decided to unistall cura and delete data. I've saved the profiles and now there isn't any issue.


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New Ender 3 V2 Neo keeps losing nozzle and plate temperature in the middle of the print and must be turned off to stop the print
I purchased it new from Amazon in December. It started about one week ago and it just stops with a constant beep and does not allow me to do anything else except turn it off. Doesn't happen on all prints but just loses its brain.
It does save the printing but I must shut it down manually and then it picks off where it left off but still does the same thing. Printing a bonsai bowl and other things and it goes to 0 °C. Is this something I am doing incorrectly or is it a defect in the unit? To me sounds like a defect.

If you feel that it is a defect, have you contacted the seller on Amazon? Will Amazon accept it back?

The constant beep is an alarm, which most probably is a warning for "Thermal runaway", look also here for hints (e.g. cooling fan related?). Another possibility is that the cable to the heated bed or the heater element is almost broken and loses connection after a while, please check the cables. If this helps, we can create an answer for you to accept, else we need to look further.

My printer was doing this.  I looked all over to try and find a solution on my own.  One person said that it was a faulty thermister so having found no other solution I got on the Creality customer support chat and they sent me a file called PID.gcode.  I ran the file on the printer and it fixed my issue immediately.

That link looks very dubious indeed! However, the RAR file contains this G-code: M301 P19.98 I0.88 D50.29 M500, so why not just post that instead, in place of a rather worrying looking URL?!

Did you check the voltage setting on the back of the unit?
There is a semi-hidden switch that can be flipped to go from 230 volts to 115 volts. If you are in the US, you want to print on 115 volts.

Hi David, welcome to 3DPrinting.SE! Your answer reads more like a comment, or is it proven that the wrong switch setting leads to this behavior as described by the OP or have you had the same experience in which it was solved with your suggestion? If not we should move the answer to a comment. Please take the [tour] and read our [help]!

It seems quite unlikely that an incorrect mains voltage selection would cause the OP to stop working mid-print. If the incorrect voltage was selected it would seem more likely that the printer just wouldn't start (or the PSU would fry)...

115 on the switch in 230 V blows the fuse, 230 V while plugged into a 115 V socket does not start

Hey, guys, I am the new owner of two Creality Ender 3 V2s, living in the US.
On one printer I remembered to flip the switch from 230 volts to 115 volts, and on the second I did not. The second printer would print for about an hour before emitting a high pitched continuous beeping that I could only stop by turning off the printer.
When I flipped the switch from 230 volts to 115 volts, this problem stopped.
So my original comment was both a comment and potential answer.


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Modified cable for Ender 5+ LCD touchscreen
I wanted to upgrade my Ender 5 plus to a silent board as it makes a lot of noise. So I chose the BTT SKR 3 EZ board and started to configure it. However, in the Marlin configuration, there was a README explaining that the LCD must be flashed, which makes sense.
The thing is, it also says:

The LCD will need the cable modified to fit the SKR 3 motherboard.
Four pins, tx2-pa10 rx2-pa9 gnd-g 5v-+5v, (See the boards silkscreens for pin labels)

I found the TX2, RX2, GND, and +5 V on the LCD (as in the picture) but have no clue what is pa10 and pa9...

Note:
After flashing the LCD, when I connect it back to the ancient board, it lights up with the Marlin logo for a few seconds and then goes off. When using the SKR 3 EZ (flashed of course) nothing happen as I didn't change the cabbling yet.

By putting SOLVED in the title without answering your own question or upvoting and/or accepting an answer, the question is not solved. I've reverted the question to the prior last edit. Please take the [tour] and look into [help] to learn how SE sites work.

but have no clue what is pa10 and pa9...

These are identifiers for the microprocessor pins. You find these two in the TFT header on the right in the image below:


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Do bevelled corners hold any practical advantages or disadvantages over square ones for blocky functional prints?
I'm producing a series of brackets to allow a laser cutter to be reliably positioned on a waste board\spoil board in that has a measurement grid on it, and to allow a honeycomb bed to be reliably positioned within it in relation to the laser cutter.
Essentially, I'm making 4 large right angle piece with mounting screws and stepped sides. Which will be screwed down to a piece of timber so that things can be fixed to them in the same position each time they're used.
It has a lot of corners, and 90° angles, and it looks like it was designed by a Brutalist architect.
Will bevelling1) the corners for purely aesthetic reasons have any practical effect on the print or the printing process. For example will rounder corners make the print stronger or weaker, or will it make warping more or less likely. Will it improve or harm bed adhesion, will it have any substantial effect on print time or quality?
Version 1.0

I'm using an Ender 5 with PLA and a 0.2 layer height. Because that's what I have on my shelf right now, and I don't want to spend any extra money on this.

1) I'm using the word "bevel" because I'm using Blender to make the model (Because it's what I'm most familiar with), and you create rounded edges using the Bevel tool in Blender.

Bevel chamfer fillet, whatever.  For correct semantics see the other excellent answer.
What are advantages of rounded (or at least, less sharp) edges and corners?

In FDM, curved xy paths are stronger than sharp corners and if your printer supports acceleration, may print marginally faster.
Curved surfaces feel nice in general and make the part more professional looking.  Sharp corners are...well...pointy and sharp.
Sharp corners and flat side faces can expose calibration issues with your printer that curved faces can hide, so the results look better.
Vertically slanted surfaces with bridged inside horizontal curves are difficult to print without good support.  The inside perimeter can separate from the infill, severely degrading print quality.  Sometimes replacing circles of slanted holes with pentagons or octagons helps this and improves bridging, but good support works better.  This could be construed as a slicer bug, but I've yet to see a slicer that does this well.
For bottom layers, round corners (or just circles in general) can increase bed adhesion and reduce peel up where sharp corners make that worse.  This is more of an issue with plastics with a shrink factor (like ABS) and nearly not an issue with PLA.
In general (and fillets in particular), rounded corners anywhere are stronger.  Inside fillets reduce stress concentrations, spreading it over the whole curve instead of concentrating it at the intersection.  For outside corners, a sharp corner is a target for chipping and direct impacts on the corner can transmit concentrated forces into the part where a curved surface would spread them.
As already stated, curved surfaces in the xy plane are stronger and higher quality with FDM, but even vertical curves can be stronger, as most slicers add extra material around them.  However, if you have a buggy slicer that doesn't do this, an upper curved surface with too steep of an angle, like a sphere, may have holes and could collapse.  On the other hand, a buggy slicer might not add solid layers under the corner and only have infill support under sharp vertical corners, creating a delamination risk, where a gradual curve or slant would at least have overlapping perimeters.  Lower curved surfaces can have support issues.
Curved or beveled edges can increase passive compliance for parts that have to slide to join with other parts, making them easier to fit.  However, inappropriate use of this can add unwanted gaps at the edges of joined parts, in which case a gradual taper (or just a square corner) might be better than a bevel or round.
Curved surfaces are harder to draw, and depending on your cad package, may require extra design planning.

Got it TLDR: gentle curves are better because they're more forgiving than harsh angles.

Alternate TL;DR: Use curves, bevels, chamfers and tapers where appropriate, and with an appropriate radius or slope.

Will bevelling the corners for purely aesthetic reasons have any practical effect on the print or the printing process.

No, not necessarily in this model. If one positive reason for using a chamfer1) or a fillet2) would have in this design is that it may make it easier to insert the honeycomb plate in the recess of the corner model cutout.
But, fillets and chamfers can have more useful effects. E.g. a bottom fillet is usually harder to print well, on the other hand, a chamfer prints fine. See e.g. this answer or this answer.
A fillet can also be very useful in preventing stress concentrations in corners (of structurally loaded parts), preventing prints to fail prematurely (like a weld does between 2 perpendicular plates).
The effect on printing time and filament saving is negligible, there is usually not much volume involved.
One of the biggest advantages is that parts look more professional!

1) from Wikipedia: In machining the word bevel is not used to refer to a chamfer. Machinists use chamfers to "ease" otherwise sharp edges, both for safety and to prevent damage to the edges.

A chamfer may sometimes be regarded as a type of bevel, and the terms are often used interchangeably.
2) from Wikipedia: In mechanical engineering, a fillet is a rounding of an interior or exterior corner of a part design.


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How to see BLTouch probing results?
How do I view the results from the BLTouch probing on my Ender 3?
I have set up all the firmware and installed the BLTouch fine and it works as expected. But how am I able to see the results of the G29 9-step probes so I can view them in a mesh visualiser?
I don’t have an OctoPrint print server, as I know this comes with a Plug-in.

G-code M420 V will show the mesh heights of the currently loaded mesh.
You can use a console to send the command and retrieve the values.

I used Pronterface terminal emulator and connected the printer via USB! Simple really when you figure out how!

It would be beneficial to future readers as to how using Proterface can provide the information in the original question. You can get additional information on how to write a good answer in the Help Center.

Please [edit] and explain how. It is great that you have solved your problem, but it would be helpful to other users with the same issue to know the steps that you took.


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I'm making my own printer, my motors only go in the plus (+) direction, I can't send them in the opposite direction
I am making my own printer. I used Repetier as firmware, made all cable connections, and installed the software. The screen came on and I connected it to the computer at the right frequency, but the motors can only move in one direction (plus) and when I select and click the G-code file, it does not react. What could be the reason for this?

As far as I am aware, Repetier is software to connect to a printer and not firmware. You mention motors but don't give any make/model. It would help if you provide more detailed information in order to help you find a solution.

@agarza Repetier also comes as a firmware. (I used this a long time ago)

@0scar Well, learn something new every day.

I think this is already answered here, most likely, your endstops are reported to be triggered while not being pressed. This hints to a configuration error. Please run G-code M119 using a console to see the state of the endstops while not being pressed. Please add this by [edit] to the question.

I am very sorry for the incomplete information and for getting back to you after a long time. The problem was that I did not set the pull-up, pull-down status of the endstops in the firmware.Thank you for friends who are interested.


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Is it possible to have very high resolution 3D scan with not too expensive scanners?
I don't really know much about 3D scans and so on, so I'm just curious about it. I need to scan objects with different forms and I want to know which level of details I can reach during the scan. For example, if the object has a small (0.1 mm) black point on it, will this be detected?
Or if the object has a really small scratch (barely eye-visible), will this be reproduced as a 3D model? So how many details deep can I go and at which price? (More or less)
Or do you know if there is any other technology that can do such things?
For example, I can see those small scratches or defects on a good camera, the problem is that camera does not scan the entire 3D object, but I would need to shoot each angle of it manually. What can I do to scan the entire object and get deep details of it?

A lot of 3d scanning is done with cameras...so what's the cost of a good high res camera?  Or, alternate viewpoint, can you afford to store and process the resulting extremely large high res model?  And now that you have it, you'll have to reduce the resolution to print it.

Ok thank you so much, so basically cameras are good enough I would say

Structured Light Scanning uses a turntable and a dedicated light source that creates patterns on the scanned object. The patterns are interpreted by the software to generate a 3D model. Photogrammetry uses a series of photographs, sometimes on a turntable, sometimes not. The software that does not support turntable use tends to use the apparent background movement to assist in creating reference points to generate the model.
The resolution aspect of your question is dependent on the resolution of the camera and the ability to detect and determine any variations in height/depth/width, etc. If there is insufficient camera resolution (Macro lens), the feature you desire to appear will not appear.
Photogrammetry and SLS are susceptible to specularity and "invisible blacks." The former is the result of a reflection of light, causing a bright spot that interferes with the calculations and dimensional determination. Transparent objects also have a similar problem. Blacks on an object are easy to detect by the human eye, often because they contain specularity as well. The dark sections are erroneously detected by the software as depth or detected as gaps/chasms/open sections. Spray-on powders provide a more uniform surface to remove these problems, but may not be suitable to your purposes.
Multiple cameras is one method used to deal with the necessary angles of captures. President Obama was the subject of a fairly complex photogrammetry construction as well as the subject of a series of hand-held structured light scanning image.
Image below from linked site:

Wow, thank you so much. So structured light scanning would be one way to go.
But I think I also need to turn ON/OFF some lights to detect some small details in the glass (some details are only visible at certain angle with certain light. Is this still possible?

You should expect best results with consistent lights. SLS creates its own light patterns and only ambient light should be used with this process. Direct lighting will wash out the projected patterns. SLS will pick up those details you reference if the operator changes angles appropriately during the scanning.

That, and light patterns swap between four different bar patterns usually: two horizontal, two vertical ones.


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How to set up Octoprint with Motion as camera streaming service?
I spent way too much time trying to get webcam working with Octoprint. Since my webcam is not supported by mjpegstream and similar streamers, I had to use Motion. Finding the URL for the video stream was quite fast, but it seems no-one in the world except for the Motion's author themselves knows the URL for the stills for timelapse.
All the attempts in several places of the net canter around trying to connect to http://octopi.local:8080/0/action/snapshot which correctly produces a still jpg of the camera, places it in /var/lib/motion and returns a confirmation that the image was produced to web UI, with no image itself in sight. There are workarounds - python scripts, cgi for webserver, and so on. No-one seems to have found Motion's URL that would return a still jpg.

For camera 0, if the hostname of your Octopi is octopi.local the default stream URI is http://octopi.local:8081/  (or whatever address your Octopi has). If you use a higher-number camera, use 8081+cam number as the port.
The snapshot uri for camera 0 is http://octopi.local:8081/0/current
If you use camera numbered higher, use whatever camera number you use in place of this 0 in the URL. It's especially tricky because literally every "special" URI of this format sits on 8080, the control port. This one is attached to the port of the first camera stream, regardless of which camera number you want.


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Can't get anything to print Ender 3 S1 Pro
I'm new to 3D printing but got myself an Ender 3 S1 Pro but have been trying to get anything to print for the last week now. I'm pulling out my hair!
When I start a print, a strip of plastic will be put down to clear the nozzle without any stringing or problems but when the main print starts it will string, not adhere properly, come loose, and fail. I have tried everything; the bed is leveled using a piece of paper on all four corners I believe the nozzle is set to the correct height. (with iterations +/-0.3 mm) not changing the flow seems to be correct but if the print doesn't stick to the nozzle, it doesn't adhere to the print bed and comes loose. I have also tried printing with combinations of higher temps and lower speeds but can't get anything to work.
Does anyone have any tips?

Some additional details are needed. What type of plastic are you printing with (PLA, ABS, PETG, etc)? What type of bed do you have (glass, PEI, tape, etc)? What type of bed adhesive are you using (glue stick, hair spray, Magigoo)?

Hi Jurre, welcome to 3DPrinting.SE! We'd love to help you out, but this isn't just enough information to work with, please add some photos. Your question is lacking detail and as such is hard to answer without knowing a couple of things about your printer setup. Please [edit] and fill in the [placeholders] in the template I added and then remove the leading <!-- and trailing --> afterwards. This will turn it visible and help us help you find the actual problem.


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The FEP bend/wears out/scratching after 4-6 prints
I recently run into some problems with my FEP on my Anycubic Mono X, but not in terms of failing off the prints, but rather in the really short lifespan of the sheet.
It frequently wears out and leaves clear dents of the prints behind, like in the photo.
The problem I mentioned repeated itself 3 times straight and happened similarly to one another.
The first prints are really nice and clear, but after some (2-3!) prints, the FEP is starting to get some dents from the previous prints.
The models I print after getting a light skin over them, which affects the quality and clearance of the prints and couldn't be washed away easily (even with a standard hand wash and/or a wash station).
Only with rubbing under hot water/IPA, but that's only possible with the larger surface models.
That wouldn't be much of a problem if the FEP were used to 20-30 prints like it is suggested, but in my case, the FEP gets useless after only 4-6 prints!
As the build plate gets cleaned too, I leveled it frequently after the instructions. Also, the lift speeds were different on the 3 FEP sheets I put on (at 240, 180, ~60 mm/min)

I have an Elegoo Saturn, so my experience may be slightly different. I don't think that the lift or exposure settings will have an effect like you are suggesting, so you can probably ignore them as a red herring.
The first thing that I would do would be home the Z axis. It may be that it's trying to push the build plate past where your FEP is, rather than pushing against it and stopping. You may also want to double check your leveling method, you may be unwittingly doing something wrong. Though I think that this is the least likely of the two options.
Next I would check your slicer settings. I had problems with a skin forming on some of my prints and I eventually traced it back to two things.
One was me having supported several models individually and then combined the files together file that was corrupt but still printed.
The other was sometimes Chitubox would corrupt the raft at the bottom of the print. I noticed that if I zoomed in on the raft some parts of it would seem to overlap with each other or pass through each other. This also generated a skin when printing. I solved this by reducing or increasing the size of the raft so that different parts wouldn't intersect with each other (Some of my prints have really complicated outlines).
I also notice that you have some scuffing on your FEP, probably from cleaning, are you using paper towels to clean your FEP?
I was advised to stop using paper towels and instead to use either a microfiber cloth or to pour about 1mm of resin in the vat and then to use the auto clean function to solidify it.


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Finding specifics on generic motors; probably 200 steps per revolution
I have been reading the Klipper docs and currently, I am trying to attain a theory on why my T8 leadscrew is not moving the Z-axis gantry.
I used to have a "T7" or 7 mm rod that my gantry was handled by at the time...

Since the "upgrade," I have noticed that my gantry does not move.
I have a cartesian style printer w/ T8 leadscrew for the gantry/Z-axis movement.
Since the upgrade, I have also noticed a slight hum that has been resolved w/ rotation_distance from the klipper docs.
I erased my config, had to start over, and have a new OS.
The motors for X and Y move just fine, i.e. exactly like they are supposed to move.

[probe]
pin: ar100:PH4
x_offset: 0.0
y_offset: 0.0
z_offset: 1.1
speed: 3
lift_speed: 6

[stepper_z]
step_pin: ar100:PL6
dir_pin: ar100:PE10
endstop_pin: probe:z_virtual_endstop
rotation_distance: 8
microsteps: 16
position_min: 0
position_max: 152.0
homing_speed: 8.0

In the above snippet, this is part of my main config reference, I have a [probe] and this [probe] has speed and lift_speed which require specific options.
My notes are gone. I cannot calculate lift speed any longer due to lack of instruction and I am thinking, from what I can remember, speed is traversing the XY plane.

The Klipper documentation and configurations were not at fault as I figured.
I went through the documentation, set up instances of different configuration options, and readjusted printer.cfg options.
Anyway, it turns out the lead screw was faulty and bent. Calculating Klipper configurations will NOT prove useful with a bent lead screw.
Also, because of the rotation of the lead screw per one turn, I had to adjust the rotation_distance in the printer.cfg file.
Also...rotation_distance for XY, Z, and E all need separate-real values that are configured and this set of examples can be found in many places online like w/ the Klipper docs, https://all3dp.com/, and the reprap wiki.


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Extruder motor wiggling
I made a successful print before this incident with my Ender 3 S1 running Klipper firmware. After that print, it started not extruding. Well, the motor started wiggling back and forth rapidly. After the prime line, it stopped completely. I thought it might be a problem with Klipper, so I switched back to stock firmware and used a different slicer too. But it is still there. I uploaded a video of it to YouTube:
https://youtube.com/shorts/q-ZLMg6NHng

I replaced the cable to the extruder and the extruder motor.
Now it works fine.

It looks like your extruder stepper is not sequenced correctly. There are a number of possible causes of this.
Basically, the stepper has four (?) poles that must be sequenced in order to make it turn.  If you sequence them out of order, it will go back and forth instead of turning in one direction.
The causes for this could be any of:

The poles are connected to the controller in the wrong order
One or more of the drivers on the controller is burned out and is being effectively skipped
The voltage on the controller is too low for the force being applied to the shaft output, causing the motor to jam and steps to be skipped

For an extruder, usually the output shaft is geared down, making the third possibility very unlikely.

Thank you. The motor has 4 Wires(I hope this information is useful). How do I check if the drivers are burned out?

Use a volt meter to check all four as you step it.  At the same time, you can verify the order is correct.


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Ender 3 v2 won't boot up after installing Sprite extruder
I installed a Sprite direct drive extruder everything went together fine but it would give a mintemp error code and say to restart. After I checked all the wiring again and restarted it 10 times no change. So I replaced the temperature sensor, no change. It still wasn't even reading room temp.
So I went thru and unplugged each connection and put it right back thinking maybe a bad connection. I restarted the printer again and now it goes to the boot screen and stays there no line going across or anything. I don't know what to try next any help would be appreciated.


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How would this OLED be mounted if in a commercial device?
I am making homebrew electronic items and I'm using this OLED, a 0.96" SSD1306 Module; very common in the Arduino world:

If someone were making a commercial device with this and designing a case, how would they mount this? We obviously see the 4 screw holes at the corners, but if you looked at this device from the side, you'll notice the glass is only about 1.2 mm proud of the PCB. In addition, if you solder headers to the 4 terminals, which is the common use, the end of the headers are actually flush with the glass.
Should the screws be coming through the case from the outside, through the PCB holes, with a nut on the other side? Would the glass normally be covered with acrylic rather than flush with the outside of the case?
So what's typical in this situation? This is a 3D-printed enclosure, so I'm also limited by that aspect of the design.

Are you 3D printing the enclosure? I ask since I don't see the 3D printing aspect in your question and that could cause your question to be closed for not being on-topic.

Yes, I'm sorry, this is a 3d printed enclosure.

When I printed the case for my Arduino test setup, I used the screen measurements for the opening. Then I added stand-offs for the screw holes to rest on so that the glass was against the wall. I gently filed the solder flush to just below the plane of the glass. I used 2 mm by 3 mm screws to attach it. Make sure your wall thickness is enough so the screw doesn't penetrate, just for appearance. I will check my CAD file to try to get you the measurements if you like. I hope this helped some.

Not quite sure I follow. Any pics you can get me of your actual device?


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Is it normal that my heated bed has up to 25 °C difference from center to edge?
I have an Ender 3 V2 pro with the Quinly bed adhered to the aluminium bed.
I have a hard time getting my prints to stick well. (PLA as well as PETG). We finally found out that only increasing the bed temperature a lot helps a little. Only the edges have a very bad adhesion and even terrible warp.
Here are measurements from an infrared thermometer:

I kept the orientation and distance constant.

Is it normal that the temperature has such differences across the bed?

If not: What could be the cause?

And: How can this be solved?

Are these 8 measurement sessions of the bed (of a single heating event), in different resolutions (9, 16 and 25 points) or separate heating cycles? A temperature of 86 °C is pretty high for PLA or PETG, if it doesn't adhere, you may need an adhesive or place the nozzle closer to the bed. Is the bed insulated at the bottom?

I started off at 60°C, but as big prints tend to warp I tried increasing the temp and ended up here. The temperature we use for PLA (60°C) also shows the same signs of uneven distribution. Also, my bed is the Quinly VAARP, they recommend 65-85°C for PETG. The measurements are at different days and different cycles. The Ender3 v2 has no insulation at the bottom.


text:
What are these effects caused by? And can I get rid of them?
I am using a Cobra Max to print PLA. I am trying to print a computer / tablet case.
There are some "defects" in it which look like the print head dragged something.

I have used a magnification lense to inspect what is going on.
It was hard to take a photo of it, but you can still see that all lines are diagonal (which gives an even appearance), but then there is one "drag" line. It looks like the print head went to a new position and melted the lines it met on its way.
That line is not raised.
How do I get rid of that?

Here I have drawn lines to indicate what is regular and what causes the irregular look (a line).

Are you using Cura? If so, this is almost surely combing, where it performs travel moves across already-printed material without retracting in order to avoid the time cost of retraction and work around problems some low-quality and poorly-tuned printers have with large numbers of retractions.
To avoid marring surfaces like this with combing, either find the "Combing Mode" setting and switch it from "All" to "Not in Skin" or "Within Infill", or leave it on "All" but set "Max Comb Distance With No Retract" to around 1 mm.
If you're not using Cura, if combing is already off, or the above does not help, it's possible that you have sufficient overextrusion that the surface is bulging up above the nominal layer height, so that even an unretracted move over it digs through material. In this case you'd need to tune extrusion so as not to over-extrude.
Some people might also suggest Z-hop as a solution to your problem, and indeed it may help, but it usually introduces bad stringing that's hard to get rid of, so I would not try it except perhaps as a last resort.


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Define PrusaSlicer infill modifiers in STL/3MF?
I use a procedural 3D animation package (SideFX Houdini) for my 3D object design.  After exporting my design to STL then importing to PrusaSlicer, I manually place modifier objects to adjust the infill percent on certain areas.  I'd like the ability to procedurally designate the infill percentage in certain areas in my design.
Is there a way to flag an object in STL/3MF/Other file format so it's interpreted as an infill adjustment modifier in PrusaSlicer?

This question is closely related to this question, PrusaSlicer is a derivative of Slic3r.

So worked out you can't directly do this with metadata, however you can add modifiers to objects in PrusaSlicer, and you can use external STLs as the geometry for the modifier.  Then you can add an infill property to the modifier and set different parameters there.


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QiDi i-Fast print in parallel
I'm playing with the QiDi Print software to compare the slicing results with mine (Dremel 3D45). One of the reasons I'm going to buy it is the printing in parallel using the two nozzles:

But I'm not able to set up the slicer correctly. As an example I set both extruders with the same PLA. I did the following steps:

load the objects (two instances of the same or even two different objects)
select the left one and press "print with extruder 2"
select the right one and press "print with extruder 1"
in the slicer parameters window, if I try to set the extruder for build plate adhesion it is set for both extruders:

So I cannot set Extruder 1 for object printed with extruder 1 and the same for the other.
Hence I tried to select one object to enable the "per model settings". But, looking at the settings to customize, the Dual extrusion panel shows nothing:

I enabled the visibility of all settings.
In any case, trying to slice with these settings, it add a weird wall around all the objects:

I never seen such a wall and I don't understand why is there and how to avoid it.
Finally, how to set up the slicer in order to print two objects in parallel?

The question regarding the wall is covered in the advanced settings for Additions. In the screen capture above, you can see that it is turned on. Ostensibly, it's used to scrub off the previous filament oozing as it sits idle.
I don't have an i-fast and cannot identify the setting you require for duplication printing. Terminology is tricky; my IDEX printer slicer calls it duplication printing and mirror printing.
As an aside, you should have a contact email for QIDI tech support. My experience with the email system is next-day response.


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Ender 3 S1 printing issue - round bottom
I got myself an Ender 3 S1 printer a couple of days ago and I tried printing the following headset stand.
The printing is still in progress. The top doesn't look too bad (unless you know how it could get better).
The problem is the "round bottom" part. The layers are really messy and looks like melted (see pictures below).

I tried multiple configurations with Cura and Creality Slicer. The best result, up to now, where with the following settings in Cura (it is worst with default profiles in Creality Slicer):

Eryone PLA+
Layer height: 0.12 mm
Initial Layer height: 0.16 mm
Initial Layer speed: 15 mm/s
Print speed: 60 mm/s
Wall speed: 30 mm/s
Travel speed: 110 mm/s
Initial Bed temp (otherwise there is not enough adhesion): 70 °C
Print Bed temp: 60 °C
Nozzle temp: 195 °C (tried with 200 and 210, 195 gives the best result so far)
Retraction distance: 0.8 mm
Retraction speed: 45 mm/s
Adhesion: Brim 3 mm (cannot be bigger because of the size of the model)

Doed someone know what caused this and how to prevent it?

What is "line height"? Do you mean "layer height"? How big is the nozzle, usually 0.4 mm, the height doesn't look like 1.2 mm. Maybe you meant 0.12 mm? Note that that is a very small layer height, or improperly tuned or an uneven bed, such layers may cause over extrusion on the layers, this is what you encounter.

@0scar, yes sorry, I meant layer height and 0.12/0.16mm, sorry for the typos. The nozzle is indeed 04.mm.
I have levelled the bed just before the printing by running an auto-homing, adjusting the z-offset at the center, manually adjusting the wheels at the 4 corners with a sheet of paper and then running the auto-leveling feature of the printer.
I'm a bit of a newbie, so, if it is over extrusion, is it normal that it only affects the curved sides at the bottom? Everything else is smooth.

So it ended up being a combination of multiple things.
To obtain the proper settings in the slicer, I started with the "standard" Ender S1 preset in Creality Slicer and then I changed the profile one at a time (from standard to super quality) doing small adjustments for each of the profiles.
I was then able to get an "OK" print of the 3DBenchy with the following settings:

0.12 mm Layer height
0.2 mm Initial Layer height (instead of 0.16 mm)
Nozzle temp: 195 °C
Bed temp: 60 °C (instead of 70 °C - I can use 60 °C because of the 0.2 mm initial layer height)
Retraction 1 mm - 40 mm/s

I then imported the profile into Cura, which has a bit more options.


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Cura deleting parts of model
So the base model isn't mine, I just added hair and stuff. I'm new to Blender and 3D printing so bear with me, please.
So this is the model before slicing:

And this is after:

I tried changing the size of the model, supports, and quality but nothing makes a difference. So I check the model on Blender and see the eye plate is thin and the head is hollow:

So I thought that might be the problem. So I tried to replace the thin eye plate with a ball (I don't like how it looks at all but I have no idea what else to do) But then I encounter this problem from slicing:

I've run out of ideas as I just don't have enough experience or knowledge with Blender etc. I'd really love to be able to print it with the original eyes if possible, and honestly don't really see why it'd be an issue printing as is anyway since the printer fills the insides and has plenty of support, right?

Does this answer your question? Best practices for handling units for 3D printing with Blender or https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/15868/cura-messes-up-my-print-how-can-i-make-it-print-what-i-see-in-blender/ or

I figured it out so thought I'd share it with anyone with a similar problem.
I used the solidify mod on the eye plate and made it thicker. Then it appeared fine when slicing but the head had a similar problem as my last photo. So, with a joined sphere inside, I did the same thing (solidify and make it thicker), and now it's perfect! :) Hope that helps someone!

Without seeing the "eye-plate" completely I guess that the model was not "solid" and "waterproof" and just a bent plane. A printable model must have thickness, so a single plane is not printable. "Solidify" makes flat planes thicker and thus printable. The 3DSmax modifier "Shell" does the same thing. Good you solved it yourself!

Please don't forget to mark your answer as the accepted answer. You can always change the accepted answer later should a better answer come along; Thanks.


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Printer temps are displaying on top of each other on Ender 3 v2 running Marlin 2.1.2
I just finished flashing Marlin 2.1.2 on my Ender 3 V2 printer. I had some difficulty flashing the screen from my SD card, but once I formatted the card to 4096 FAT32 and added the both Marlin ...Creality/Ender-3/CrealityV422/LCD/private and ...Creality/Ender-3/CrealityV422/DWIN_SET directories to it, it worked.
Now however, I see that the numbers are updating and displaying over each other. In the picture below, the nozzle temp is 22 stacked on a 20. When it rises, it'll show all 3 temps on the same space. The bottom row are the default question-marks stacked on the x/y/z coordinates.

For the compilation, I used PlatformIO. I basically followed this video exactly:

The main difference being I stopped the tutorial after setting the LCD controller at ProUI, since it was my preferred build.
Here is a link to my configuration files and my bin file, in case anyone alse wants to reproduce this locally.

Please explain why the LCD looks so different from the one in the video (https://youtu.be/7i7PnBZ6cnM?t=1401) (is that caused by the phrase you refer to by stopping with the tutorial?).

Yes, in the video he goes through multiple different UI versions. I liked the proUI one best, so I stopped once he showed that. The time stamp is 21:09 for ProUI. My icons DO look a little different though, but I don't know why.


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Printing with minimal supports
I'm trying to print this item with as few supports as possible due to difficulties with removing the supports afterward in very small places. I set the support angle to be at 70° since that covers the area which was a problem before. When the printer starts, however, it stops right at the first layer, 2-3 seconds into printing, and then complains of a power crash. I tested it out and it's not happening on other prints, just on this one.
Any suggestions on why is it stopping and how I could print it with minimal supports?
The issue I had was that the supports that were inside the moving parts ended up being printed as strong as the actual infill and I can't remove it now.

Please add an image of the object unsliced, it is very difficult to help out without. Also an image of the failed print could be useful.

Your image is difficult to use to be certain of a specific answer, but a generic answer may be found in Angus of Maker's Muse on YouTube.
His suggestion, which I've used with quite good results is to add primitives manually to the locations that will eliminate the need for supports. Typically, the new primitives will convert an overhang to a bridging, or will provide support with a smaller impact.
If your part is not proprietary, consider to edit your question with a link to download the STL file, as it will provide a better viewpoint of the troublesome areas.
As an example of Angus' solution, I added thin wall hollow cylinders to a part that contained a double counterbore. With traditional support implemented, the mass of plastic would have been nearly impossible to remove. The new primitives were sized to overlap the unsupported centers of each counterbore by only one nozzle width and were two nozzle widths thick. Picture the stereotypical archery target.
The result on printing was that the created support cylinders remained attached to the bed when the part was cleanly removed.
In Angus' video, he shows the addition of a vertical panel creating a support for an orthogonal overhang, using approximately the same nozzle width reference. A thin vertical wall attached to the side of the model, extending outward to the end of the overhang, creates a bridging in place of a massive support structure.
From the linked video, these screen captures show one extreme example that accomplishes the objective with reduced material use, time and post processing:

This method does not require "ground-up" design, as one needs only to have a resource to create primitives in an editor. PrusaSlicer provides for adding primitives, Meshmixer allows for a wide variety of features in this manner and even Tinkercad can be used to add thin rectangular prisms or cylinders as needed.


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Replacing hotend without replacing extruder assembly?
I have a Lulzbot TAZ 5, and the hotend is broken. Is there any way for me to replace the hotend without replacing the extruder motor and all surrounding parts?

Could you possibly try to explain by [edit] what is exactly broken? Is it the thermistor, the heater element, the heater block, the heat break (metal tube that connects the heater block to the cooling fins) or the cooling fins? It could well be that you don't require a whole new hot end set, it depends on what's broken.

What @0scar said. You're probably looking for a thermistor or heater cartridge. The only other real possibilities for "broken" are stripped threads in the block (needs a new block) or bent/broken/threads-damaged heatbreak.

It should be possible to replace the hot end, there are descriptions available that describe how to service or replace the "Mini Hexagon Hot End" or known as "LulzBot LongBlock Hexagon Hot End Kit".
However, it might be a challenge to find these hot ends to be sold separately. You need to search for "Hexagon hotend" and may find a supplier or two to acquire one.
It might be cheaper and more robust for the future to replace the extruder/hot end assembly all together. If you look at the amount of hits you get for the Hexagon extruder it appears as if it is discontinued.

I know this is an old post, but I Stumbled into this while researching new nozzles for my dual extruder:
https://www.printyourmind3d.ca/blogs/tutorials/replacing-the-hot-end-on-your-lulzbot-taz-printer
This may do what you need.

Welcome to 3D Printing! Whilst this may theoretically answer the question, it would be preferable to include the essential parts of the answer here, and provide the link for reference.

The only link in the link you provided that navigates to the actual hotend serves a dead page. This probably implies that the hotend is end-of-life. Although this answer does answer the question, as in it provides a link to a workscope to replace the hotend, merely linking to such a site is not how a question should be answered. If the link dies due to link rot, the answer is not useful anymore.

Link only answers are not the way the stack works. -1


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Crealty Ender 3 v2; Impossible to calibrate extruder
I have a Creality Ender 3 v2 3D printer and I recently had trouble while printing.
After some investigations, I found that a piece from the initial plastic extruder was broken (the lever with the roller). I then replaced the whole extruder with the official Creality metal one:

My problem:
I tried to calibrate E-steps correctly:

Disconnect the PTFE tube to remove the nozzle from the problem
Marking PLA, asking for 10 cm of extrusion and seeing what's left

The PLA filament comes out marked from the extruder (which leads me to believe that tension is enough)
The default E-step value is 93.
The initial result is 0.4 cm left (9.6 cm extruded), and I can do it twice or more, which results in the same measure.
But when I change the E-step value (to 96.9 in this case), I have more than 10 cm extruded. Reducing it to 95 for example results in more than 0.4 cm left (~8 cm extruded).
Then, putting back the E-step value to 93 leads to a different result than initially.
This behavior first made me think of a slip, but it is not apparent, and will not explain the initial reproducibility of the results while not changing the value of the E-step. Moreover, the extruder is new.
My question:
Do you have an idea of what could be wrong here?
Assembly error?
Misunderstanding of printer software? Or how to change the E-step value?


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How to clean / remove frosting from build-surface
I recently got into 3D printing.
Printer Setup

Model: Ender-3
Board: 4.2.2
Firmware: Manufacture version of Marlin with BLTouch (Aug 2022 update)
Auto-level: CR-Touch
Bed Type: Stock --- Textured PEI or are they BuildTak ??

After doing some test prints and figuring out my leveling and z-offset.
I had some print residue on the bed, where you could clearly see the first layer fails.
This morning, I decided to clean the print bed with acetone after reading several other forums and watching some reputable youtubers.
After wiping the bed down with a cloth, I know have frosting on my bed.
I found this out from some other posts, but no post on how to properly clean the frosting.
I've added a picture, so hopefully that helps too.

Is this bed surface trashed??

Acetone should not be used for cleaning build surfaces. It attacks most plastics, probably including whatever Buildtak-clone is made of. It probably won't immediately ruin it, but it will degrade the surface texture.
The right agent for cleaning bed surfaces is IPA (isopropyl alcohol). If you have print material stuck to the bed texture from printing with the nozzle way too close to the bed, your best best for removing it is printing more of the same material on top of it, and hoping it adheres to the new print and pulls off with it. Not using aggressive solvents.
Is the bed surface ruined? Probably not ruined, but likely somewhat degraded. I've seen much worse though, so I'd expect it's still good for a few months of moderate use, if you take good care of it and don't keep using inappropriate cleaners or printing with the nozzle scraping the bed.

Yeah, it pretty much took the texture of the build surface right off.
I've been using IPA before and after each print, but read in a different post that acetone could be used to dissolve the material , like you said that was left from the nozzle being way to close to the bed. Luckily after some trial and error, I've got bed-leveling down now.
Thank you for the info!

After getting the surface as clean as possible, it's pretty smooth now. So I'm guessing that I might have to start using a form of adhesive.
I'll print another Benchy and see how she turns out.

Been there and still am. Not realizing the strength of Acetone I was utilizing it for my bed cleaning. Soon found out that it slowly destroyed the surface. I am now waiting for a costly replacement. In the mean time I am cleaning with Acetone and apply a coat of my own concoction made of scrap ABS and Acetone. I keep it in a tightly sealed jar and make sure it remain properly diluted by adding Acetone regularly. When its time to print I spread a thin layer of the concoction on the print area. I still get a descent finish and quite strong adhesion. Its not the perfect solution but it works.

No matter how bad you mess your bed surface up, you can always just put blue tape on it. Blue tape is at least as good as buildtak, and dirt cheap to replace. Amazon has rolls that are full 235 mm bed size so you don't even need to bother with aligning the seam.


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Does the Creality Ender-3 v2 come with a threaded rod or a lead screw?
For the benefit of a novice friend who wants to get into 3D printing, I am following an excellent YouTube course by Paul McWhorter, on Fusion 360 (playlist) which uses a Creality Ender-3 v2 to process the resulting designs.
However, the esteemed Mr McWhorter often refers to the "threaded rod" during the video that covers the assembly of the printer (Fusion 360 for 3D Printing LESSON 2: Assembling the Creality Ender 3 Version 2 3D Printer).
Is this just a slip of the tongue, or does the Ender-3 v2 actually come with a threaded rod, and not a lead screw?
Looking at the official dual Z-axis upgrade kit for the Ender-3 v2 on Amazon, Creality Official Ender 3 Dual Z-Axis Upgrade Kit ( 42-34 Stepper Motor Included ) for Ender-3, Ender-3S, Ender 3 Pro, Ender 3 V2 3D Printer, it would seem that the kit comes with a lead screw:

Therefore it would seem logical that the base printer also comes with a lead screw. However, I've not really been able to find a clear enough image of the printer's component parts in order to ascertain whether that is true or not.
I don't want to recommend that my friend purchases an Ender-3 v2, only to realise that it is supplied with a threaded rod, when it arrives.
Can anyone, who either owns an Ender-3 v2, or who has seen one "in-the-flesh", confirm whether it comes with a lead screw?
Also, without wishing to broaden the scope of this question, do all Creality printers come with lead screws? Are there any Creality printer models that do actually come with a dreaded threaded rod (which, IMHO, should be avoided, as that would require an immediate upgrade to lead screw)?
Note: I'm not looking for a (shopping) recommendation, I just need a simple yes or no confirmation.

The Ender 3 v2 does have a lead screw.

These are the main differences:

Threaded rods have a single V-shaped thread
Lead screws have multiple trapezoidal threads

Another significant difference in the pictured lead screw is that it is a multi-lead thread. Many lead screws are. Threaded rod is almost universally single lead. An advantage of multi-lead threads is that they make more rapid advance possible at the relatively low rotational speeds of stepper motors.

Ah, yes. I will add to the answer. Thank you.

Not square but *trapezoidal

The most common thread Americans will have seen like this (aside from the multiple starts) is the Acme thread used in screw jacks for cars.  Acme is a specific bevel angle and major/minor diameter difference per pitch of trapezoidal thread.


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Black eSUN PLA+ has moisture damage straight out of the box. Is this normal?
I just recieved a roll of eSUN black PLA+ and I have found out it has moisture damage after using it for 2 days. I was previously using a roll of eSUN orange PLA+ and it worked really well. So I ran a stringing test just to make sure the settings were right for the black roll and the result was terrible. So I spent a full day messing with slicer settings as moisture damage was last on my list for the issue since the roll was brand new. But with no improvement I decided to dry out a sample of filament just to try and this was the result.

Left is filament straight from the roll, middle is dried out filament and orange as a control. So now I  know the problem is this normal for eSUN filaments? Should I dry out filaments as soon as I take them out of the box? I didn't have this issue with my orange roll.

In my experience some variability between spools of filament is to be expected, even when they are the same brand. Settings and parameters that are optimal for one spool may not work as well for another. Moisture absorption is one of several possible contributors.

Yes this is plausible. Please weight your bobin and dry it then weight it again to know how much water you extracted.


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Ender 3 V2 Neo upgraded with Biqu H2 V2 not extruding
I'm doing something special with my Ender 3 V2 Neo these days. Gotten to upgrade to the direct extruder Biqu H2 V2. Nothing is out for the Neo version yet - like adapters and such - so I have modified an Ender 3 Pro mount to make things work.
Everything is now mounted and looks awesome. But, the new extruder won't extrude. I have set the Vrefs to around 1.05 V. The E-steps are set to 932 using Pronterface. I am using Marlin firmware.
My mainboard is marked with T8 and it is using the TMC2208 driver. I have checked my stepper cable and there is good connection with the main board.
I took out my stepper motor cable from the Biqu and tried with the stepper motor cable from my X-axis, and then the Biqu finally started extruding when I adjusted the X value.
So I'm kind of puzzled of this issue?!
Is my mainboard toasted? Or could the E-stepper driver be possibly dead?
Anyone with good ideas?
After a good question on if i had worked on the board with the power ON i went into myself and thought; damn, i actually just have done that. And by trying to move the x-axis with the steppermotor just to have NOTHING happen... i think my steppermotor driver is dead by my own doing... I will buy a new one and let you guys know!!

Well @0scar mentioned something here, I actually did move my stepper cables when the board was powered. I didn't really think about it when I did...
So, when trying to move the X-axis now with the stepper motor, nothing happened... I actually think the stepper motor driver is dead because I didn't follow the right instructions of having the board off when moving wires. Damn I feel stupid :-(
My nozzle is 220 °C just to be sure, but good that you addressed this as well. I will buy a new main board then and will update here if I get it to work :-)

However, you said that the extruder also wasn't working before you moved the wires about (and that was the reason why you moved the wires in the first place). So, either there is another (original) problem.. or you had initially plugged in the extruder - after upgrading to the new extruder - when the board was switched on... do you see what I mean..? What was the original reason for the extruder not working? We still haven't really found a reason for that...

In addition, @EirikJohannessendusty_outdoo, your last update to your question seems to be an answer, or response to 0scar's answer, and as such it should have probably been posted as an answer and not as an update to the question, because that has meant that you've ended up answering your question within the question, which sort of breaks the Q&A mechanism of Stack Exchange. Of course, the whole Q&A has been complicated by the original issue apparently not yet having been fixed - which is: why didn't it work in the first place? Unless it was also due to cables being moved whilst powered up.

I think that you need to continue through the process of elimination. You have proved that your x-axis driver works, by connecting it to the extruder stepper motor. Now you need to prove that your extruder driver works.
I would suggest to test whether your extruder driver is at fault or damaged, by connecting the x-axis stepper to the extruder driver and then trying to move the x-axis, in much the same way as you did with your extruder stepper motor connected to the x-axis stepper driver.
Whilst this isn't an actual solution to your issue, at least this way you can hopefully narrow down precisely where your issue is.

Although not the answer, but more a step into solving the issue, when you swap cables, always un-power the board, never hot-swap cables as this can destroy the drivers. You could possibly be dealing with a dead driver.
You proved by swapping the X-axis for the extruder that the extruder works on the X-axis driver (now you now that the extruder stepper works), so you either did something wrong in your config file or the driver is dead.
You could look into what differences you have configured with respect to the Marlin config for the Ender 3 V2 Neo to look for possible problems with your config file.

Furthermore, in order to extrude, your nozzle need to be at least 170 °C, else it will not extrude.


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Entire Print Shifted
Can anyone tell me what would cause an entire print to be shifted about 8mm?
I have a new Elegoo Neptune 3 Pro (which is doing an awesome job so far!).
I started printing this Treasure Chest Puzzle Box overnight, and this morning it looked pretty good until I noticed that after approximately 3 layers, the print shifted by about 8mm. I think it shifted again by about 1mm after 1 layer. The rest of the print is perfect.
Unfortunately, I pulled the print off and closed my Cura file before I took note of which direction the print was on the bed, so I don't know which dimension was shifted - the direction the bed slides or the direction the extruder head moves.
I printed on the normal Cura profile.
Thanks.

One of the following might be the case:

Your X or Y belt may be loose. Are the belts under enough tension?
The speed / acceleration / deceleration of your head may be so high that the belt slips. Can you try to move the bed or the head and see if the belt slips?
The head of the extruder might have got caught in an extruded part that somehow got lifted up or fell over. Can you see any sign of a part that got bumped by the extruder head?
Your cat might have gotten a little too interested and whacked the printer's bed with its paw.

Classic layer shift
The whole print shifted. This means that for some reason, the bed moved more than the printer thought it did. This is typically happening in the following situations:

The bed was prevented from moving, usually due to the cable snagging somewhere
The bed moved too much, usually due to being hit
The bed moved when not told to, usually due to the operator bumping into it.
The Printhead did anything that resulted in the bed moving, but on the printhead.
The belt was loose and skipped a few steps.


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What causes this lack of adhesion on the first layer
I just got an Elegoo Neptune 3 Pro and it's been printing great. Until now. I'm not sure what changed.
My first layer is acting funny. I get separation of the lines, but only where the extruder is moving in a specific direction.

When the head is moving in the x direction (left looking at the printer), it raises and doesn't adhere to the line next to it. Often the print will go on to work fine, but this is bothering me. The one side of the brim looks beautiful, and I want the entire brim to look that way.
I don't think it's a bed level issue. I see the issue just after a 36 -point bed level. I can also print a good skirt that covers the bed and there are no inconsistencies. If I printed two of the object in the image above, they would both have the issue despite one being positioned on another side of the bed. It has more to do with the direction the head is moving.


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How to solve problem with OctoPrint webcam rotation
I have a problem with my OctoPrint setup. No matter if I check any of these options, image looks just like attached below - with front side on the left-top instead of bottom-right.

Flip webcam horizontally
Flip webcam vertically
Rotate webcam 90 degrees counter clockwise

I use OctoPi, flashed today, 2023-02-21. Is there something in the advanced options I could use to rotate my webcam image the way I need it to be? Camera is glued to the ceiling of my LackRack, That's why it's upside down. This is the only place that works well with it's focal length that's too long for any other place than a corner farthest away from the center of my printing bed.

I'm not familiar with the workings of OctoPrint, (and I may be totally wrong) but I would imagine that it uses gStreamer to stream the video. Is there a text config file that OctoPrint uses, which contains a gStreamer configuration string? Or maybe the gstreamer string is in the UI (advanced) settings somewhere? If so, then that string could be modified to rotate, or flip, the image. If I have time I will also try to do some research into how OctoPrint manages its stream..

Additional info that might be useful for us to know: What OS is the Pi running? What Pi is it? Also, are you using a Pi Camera via CSI or a USB webcam? How is it connected, Wi-Fi or Ethernet? Please [edit] your answer and add that info.