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Printing shells and pouring filler
I had this idea for bulky parts for just printing the shell (PLA) then pouring in some kind of filler in to make up the bulk/strength.
Printing bulk .2mm at a time line by line is slow and subject to warping!
So I though precision print a shell and fill it with 'something' - has this been done by anyone? What is a good something to use?
Yours hopefully!

What are your requirements?  There are many materials you could fill a container with that would give you a variety of properties.

@tjb1 by default PLA :-) -- my current print is a chainwheel for a belt on an electric bike... the 3d print for teeth is important, but the bulk could be anything (instead of 8 hours of warping bulk!)

I've looked into doing something similar to this before and love the idea, never had the chance to follow  through on it yet. This is sort of a hybrid method between cast molding and 3D printing.
The accepted answer to a question I had a while back had some very good points by fred_dot_u
Post processing FDM for strengrh
Short version, Epoxy is a good option but you may have to consider heat generated from it. Urethane is another really good option (cast urethane is a pretty standard process). Chem-Eng isn't my area of expertise but there is a huge range of material options out there that can be mixed as two parts. I think there are enough options out there right now that you can choose your material properties you need and then select the material from there.
You  could also consider going the chopped-fiber composite route. (carbon, glass, etc) and then combine with whatever the appropriate resin is for those materials.
I see the most difficult part of this is getting the shells to print properly. When I had looked into doing this, I considered modeling my part then hollowing it out completely. Then going back into the hollow part and designing in minimal internal structures for the purpose of supporting the thin-walled shell model. Printing that, and then drilling and filling the part after the fact. This approach I see as being a good option however the location of the drill points would be critical otherwise you could get voids as your fill material is injected in. And, the additional modeling time wouldn't be insignificant, however the saving I expected would come from having a ridiculously strong part, with complex geometry and be significantly cheaper than even a cast-urethane part.
If you get some good results, please post a link to them! This is a huge interest of mine!

I was aiming for really simple, having no infill so leaving 'ponds' to have filler poured in to self level and set. Or minimal infill and stop the print before the cap is printed, leaving a load of wells.
I have not played much with settings - I have 1.75 walls and 20% infill by default.
The plastic is strong enough, I just want to avoid the time/trouble of printing the bulk! I will look at the urethane...

You can reliably go less than 20% for sure. For aesthetic parts, or when I'm just checking geometry I usually only do 10%, sometimes I've gone as low as 5% (hex pattern infill). In Solidworks, there is a feature "shell" that will hollow a part out for you to a desired wall thickness.  depending on your CAD software I'm sure there's an option for you. Stopping the print short will make your part a little stumpy is all. Good luck!

I now have some polyurethane on order (it should arrive real quick, as it is classed as 'hazardous' so comes via very specialist couriers!). I couldn't trick Cura into doing anything useful with the original design, so have done a new one with specific 'walls' to handle the casting... fingers crossed!

Instead of polyurethane one could consider special foam adhesive tapes placed between two 3d printed edge bonded  fixed thin shells and allow it to foam into the cavity  by heating the assembly. It forms a very rigid sandwich shell after cooling.

Or you could use a second head to do low-density infill with very thick layers, like a 1.5mm nozzle and 1.2mm layers.

Cheers, a possible compromise, but in my case my printer was 'flat pack' rather than a real 'kit' so I am not competent to add a 2nd head...

Not exactly the same, but MakerBot Industries is making improvements to their programs by allowing users to do away with standard infill practices (patterned infill). Their approach is to treat infill similarly to how they treat outer support structures, the "infill" only exists in the interest of supporting roofs.
Check out MakerBot's article about it.
This method achieves the same time-savings that you describe in your question, but will not necessarily provide as much structural integrity, depending on your approach.

Could be part of the solution - leaving maximum volume to be filled with the filler...

I design in FreeCad and then process in Cura - I tried loads of options to get 0% in fill but support and no top/bottom shell but a 'raft' -- couldn't get what I was after... But I think it should have worked!


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How can I avoid that a small bit of filament sticks out of the nozzle during heating?
So when my Prusa I3 is heating up, a small bit of filament is coming out of the nozzle, forming a small string at.
When the printing starts, this results in a small plastic ball on the bed, impacting the overall printing process.
How can I avoid this?

You might pull back the filament when hot before shutdown, and not feed until hot again?

@Ecnerwal That would be a valid solution, if I weren't just so damn lazy.

take it apart with a tweezer.

On my Kossel Mini I programmed it to go to the edge of the bed and purge a small amount of filament which creates a dot.  I purge enough to get the dot to stick to the bed and then go on with printing, when the head moves the dot stays attached and usually pulls excess material off the nozzle.  This can be added to the "Starting G-Code" section of your slicer.

This is exactly how Ultimaker primes their filament, I'm also doing exactly the same as this works very well!

I normally print a skirt. This acts as a quality check for: flow rate; bed adhesion; bed level; and proper zero position in the Z.

Very much this!

I just go and pull it off the print head with pliers when it's about to start and sometimes shortly after it starts printing, but its probably not the safest way to deal with the problem. Printing a skirt, brim, or raft should help to fix the problem.

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Parts printing out bigger after changing controller
I changed my original HICTOP controller for one which actually has some fuses.
I tried to print a part last night - the resultant print looks significantly bigger.
Do you need to recalibrate the stepper per unit after you've changed your controller?

A quick search for your specific controller brought up the following link:
hictop wiki page
in which a reference is made that some printers were shipped with incorrect firmware, specifically in error by a factor of six. If your prints are about six times larger, this may apply to you. The same page contains a link to the firmware.
You should also be able to "look inside" the firmware using any number of programs providing terminal access to the controller. Pronterface is one, Simplify3D (not free) is another. I'm fond of using OctoPrint, but it requires some "gymnastics" to install.
Once you've installed your selected software, open the terminal feature and type M503 to display the current settings. You may have to turn off some automatic terminal display features, as some controllers will repeatedly send data to the screen, causing inconvenient scrolling.
I attempted to locate the correct code sequence for your printer, with limited success. Consider to scan over the wiki page for the appropriate information and correlate it to your specific controller and printer:
Firmware reprap codes
You'd want to confirm a specific M-code to change the stepper figure to match that which is for your printer. I've done my extruder steppers recently, which is M92 for my controller. My quick scan of the codes in the above link shows M350 might be the one for you, but don't take my word on it, get a confirmation from another source specific to your printer.

I learned something so thats a bonus. It turns out there's something wrong with the stl file I was trying to print. Since another model works fine. thanks anyway.

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Is it possible to 3D print sharp objects with high details? And how?
I mean 3D forms like these? In a small scale (height: 1-2 cm, width: 0.5 cm).

I want to keep all the form's details.
If it is possible, what printer do you advise? How much does it cost to print one piece like that in terms of ink? And what is the most permissive software for this kind of printing?

The material used for 3D printing is called filament for FDM printers, and resin for SLA printers.

Best option for something like this would be to use an SLA printer. They can do sharper image detail compared to FDM style printers.
That being said, printing something like this poses its own set of challenges. In order to print a part, some surface needs to be in contact with the built platform, and depending on which surface chosen, you will end up with having some amount of overhang, or undercut. Not an issue in and of itself as these can be supported with support structures. For the size that you're looking at printing though, removal of the support material will be a bigger challenge.
As for costing of this, that's not something that this forum is used for, but these structures don't look absurdly difficult to print. If you were to contact a local print shop, or check on Google for an online print house, they will be able to give you costing on printing these.

Sla printers would be the best, but if you are using an FDM printer, set it to a lower speed and male sure you get the orientation right so that most of the edges don't get ruined by supports. You should also get a higher quality 0.2mm nozzle and set it to the lowest layer height you can achieve on your slicer.

You could use something like a Stratsys Objet 30 Pro.
The printer uses layers of liquid deposited on a bed and cured with UV light, instead of extruded plastics. This just means that the level of detail you can achieve is far higher than that typically achieved by a conventional ABS or PLA printer. That being said, the materials and machine hours tend to be more expensive than conventional printers (about 40% higher in the specific facility I am exposed to).
If you are well versed in 3D printing, you could play around with the air-gapping (forced overlapping of layers due to z-axis head positioning in ABS and PLA). Can cause wear on the head, and takes some playing with but in some cases has yielded me a higher perceived level of detail. Also, makes some part features stronger.

Don't waste your time on SLA or FDM machines.
If you use SLA, it might print but you risk breaking the sharp edges during support removal and FDM is just a another level of pain for support removal.
Print this using SLS and Polyamide 2200 or PA 12, they both are the same material.
Should come out of the machine exactly the way you need with those sharp edges intact.
SLS technology does not require any support material.
You should be able to get it printed at any professional service bureau near to you, just google to find them.

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What are the "magic numbers" on a Monoprice Select Mini?
What are the "magic numbers" people refer to regarding print resolution on the Monoprice Select Mini?

As an owner of the Monoprice Select Mini, I use the "Magic Numbers". It seems that any given printer design will have such magic numbers as a result of the Z-axis mechanics, but I haven not come across discussions for other printers. Are most printers designed to obtain "naturally" round numbers, i.e. multiples of (0.05 or 0.025), or fine enough stepping control that it doesn't matter if it's precise (0.0006...)?

The "magic numbers" are optimal values that work particularly well for the layer height.  Michael O'Brien derived these numbers by reverse engineering the mechanics of the Z-axis stepper motor.
Using these values as your layer height will generally improve your print quality over using round layer heights such as 0.15, 0.2, or 0.25 by eliminating quantization errors.
To see an example of this, print a copy of 3DBenchy at 0.15 and 0.175.  On the 0.15, you will see some wavy patterns on the curved bow portion compared to the 0.175.  This is the result of inexact rounding.
Layer Height (mm)
0.04375 (results may vary)*
0.0875
0.13125
0.175
0.21875
0.2625
0.30625

Though this approach is logical on paper, in the real world it doesnt work as well. Even if you do choose a magic number for the layer height, you cant gurentee that your print head, once homed at the beginning of a print, is using a full step of the motor. Its more common to be on a half step than a full step with a motor

Since your answer says "in the real world" you should provide some real world examples that back up your claim.  Many owners on the Mini owners list have posted examples of how using the magic numbers improved print quality and reduced print time. I also think you're misunderstanding the claimed benefit (elimination of quantization errors).

Wouldn't it be exactly as common to be on a half step as a full step? Or did you mean, more generically, some incremental non-full step?

This is an issue with homing. It is not synced to the stepper motor so it may occur on something other than a full or half or even quarter step. That said, it always does this so moving up from there, the first little bit may be off but I would expect once the motor runs freely, the error will go away. Also keep in mind with microstepping, you can have 1/16 or 1/32 steps as well. Using the magic number ensures the new position you request is within the limits of the stepper/controller to reach. Its like rounding numbers. if you don't, as you increment, the numbers will always be consistant. If you round, the numbers will dither around.
At least thats my $45 (inflation) and stickin to it.
Good luck everyone and have fun.


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How does a SolidWorks file get converted to be 3D printed?
I've done some research on this matter however I cannot find any clear answers.
How does a SolidWorks CAD file get 'converted' into a file format suitable for 3D printing, in detail?

I see that you've substantially shortened your question and created a clear question. Unfortunately, I believe that your final question is mostly unrelated to this forum. Your query involves programming sequences within Solidworks, those sequences involved in creating files to meet either STL standards or G-code standards or both. It would not surprise me to learn that such information is considered proprietary to the companies involved in creating them.

Magic.   It's all magic.

Any and all CAD files can be converted to STL (Standard Triangle Language). In this file format, surfaces are parsed to be combinations of triangles. For example a flat rectangular surface gets represented as two triangles in the same plane.
As the complexity of the solid increases more triangles are required to adequately approximate the surface. Flat surfaced models are simpler to convert and will have smaller file sizes whereas curved solids will be more complex and larger file sizes (for the most part). The dimensions of your part do not translate to the STL file technically. The STL version of your part is based on unit vectors and a scaling factor is included in the file. So none of the vertices of the STL file are dimensioned, but the file is then scaled appropriately when opened.
If you think of something as simple as a large diameter cylinder, you would need a relatively large number of triangles to approximate the curved surface. With a low number of triangles the curved surface would come out quite blocky, however increasing the resolution and the number of triangles used the blocky surfaces begin to approximate a curved surface. In theory if you had infinite resolution your curved surface would be exactly represented. The resolution of the file is something that you can choose when you save the file in STL format. The higher the resolution the more triangles will be required and the file size will also increase.
The specific algorithm on how to complete this task will be proprietary to each CAD software, however if you're just curious on the math involved or the general process of converting them, I did a quick google search for "STL format algorithm" and found several useful links on the first page that could be useful.
Here are a few links to a few sites with good information:

The TL;DR version: 15-294 Rapid Prototyping Technologies: STL Files and Slicing Software;
A Published paper on the algorithm: A method for slicing cad models in binary stl format, and;
A rehash of what I wrote above: STL File Format for 3D Printing – Explained in Simple Terms.

When you convert it to, let's say, a .stl (3d object file) file, I believe it converts the geometry of the parts into binary and saves the sets. These matrices can be used by the software of 3d printer in order to give the appropriate Trajectory for the extruder. And then the motion of the extruder is 'divided' amongst the available stepper motors and it generates equations of motion for the motors in electrical signals.
That's what I've learned so far by using a 3d printer.

This isn't a very accurate answer. "Binary" doesn't really have anything to do with it (everything on a computer is binary, so "converting into binary" doesn't tell you much). What are "sets"? STL files aren't (and don't contain) "matrices".

This "answer" appears as confusing as the original question.

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Having trouble getting first layer support to stick
I'm having an issue where the first layer of my support structures isn't sticking on the edges and causing the print to (eventually) fail.  Any ideas on how I can fix it?
I'm using Slic3r.

There are many things you'll need to check and/or confirm to ensure that you will have a good bond to the bed. The first is to confirm that you are using a genuine Prusa printer as it appears in the photo. Having built one recently makes it easier for me to guess that is the case.
Have you performed the bed calibration sequence? The manual provides a series of steps which results in a zig-zag pattern of filament being placed on the bed, while the z-height is adjusted from the panel. You want to have a filament trace that is only slightly squished onto the bed, not flattened so much that it's cutting into the PEI and not so high that it's nearly cylindrical.
The bed must be of the correct temperature for the filament selected. If in doubt, raise it five to ten degrees C. I recently assisted with the aforementioned printer that had a peeling problem and the bed temperature had to be raised to 70°C from the "standard" 55°C generated by Slic3r.
It is critical that the bed be clean as well. Denatured alcohol is recommended, with application of a clean cloth.
Your photo is somewhat out of focus, making it difficult to determine if the brim is being created at an excessively high z-level, which will cause peeling. The main body of the print, also out of focus appears to be heavily flattened, but that could be an artifact of the photo.
The reflections on the bed appear to indicate that some gouges in the surface exist. If your PEI is damaged, you will have the problem you described. I've seen videos in which the bed is not quite as gouged and was refreshed with very light sandpaper or very light steel wool or both. Of course, after using such material, clean the surface thoroughly.
I understand the PEI that is applied by the manufacturer is quite thin and can be further damaged if too much pressure is applied while refreshing. It is far better to apply too little pressure if you plan to perform this task.
Consider to read through the manual and address all of the calibration aspects of the printer to establish a base point for the problem you are experiencing.

It is a genuine Prusa.  I adjusted the bed temp up to 70 (from 65), sanded with 0000 steel wool (cleaned w/71% isopropyl alcohol). and recalibrated (I think this was the primary issue, i always wanted it to be squished more than it's supposed to be, perhaps squishing it so much was causing it to stick to the side of the nozzle and then get peeled up on the 180).  It appears to be working now, thanks!  Also, great list of things!!

If you are using PLA, putting blue painter's tape down on the print bed will really increase adhesion. You can also lightly sand the blue tape with a piece of fine sandpaper to further increase bed adhesion.

Yeah but this shouldn't be necessary with a heated bed.

I use both painters tape and a heated bed. I agree that there may be something else off with the print, but painters tape is a very good suggestion to start with.

My experience with the aforementioned Prusa is that the PEI is quite a good bonding surface if properly treated, cleaned and not damaged. Additional adhesives may be needed for "exotics" but typically not PLA if all other factors are correct.

Easycheese is correct. I've heard that painters tape actually worsens bed adhesion on heated beds, but I can't test this out to confirm it because my printrbot doesn't have a heated bed.

I'm not sure where your information is from but I've used a heated bed for the past four years and my prints have significantly improved adhesion using painters tape. That's using standard materials like PLA and ABS

I had a similar issue where slic3r generated supports that attach directly to the bed, but didn't put enough material around the thin supports on the first layer, so they didn't stick to the bed.
To solve this I added a brim, see "skirt and brim" under "print settings". This puts more material around both the part and also the supports on the first layer.
I didn't need the brim round the whole part as it was sticking to the bed just fine anyway, but this was the only way I could find to give the thin supports the wide base they need to stick to the bed. I used a 5mm brim, but I am sure it would work with less than this.


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Best way to start building a 3D printer of my own
I've been using a 3D printer - Makerbot Replicator 2, since almost a year now. I'm quite good at operating and solving somewhat difficult problems with it.
However I'm looking forward to build a 3D printer of my own, during the Summer break of 40 days.
Where's the best way to look for a start (except for Instructables) and build it in my given time?
And how should I proceed?
Also what will be its approximate cost?
PS: I don't know coding but I'm a really proficient designer and a good knowledge of electronics too.

This question is far, far too broad. You could write an entire book on the subject of printer building. Please do some research on your own, and ask specific questions when you run into problems.

It's not clear if you want to build a new printer from parts, using a existing design, or want to design one from scratch. Probably the first step would be to clearly define what you want to achieve. - Do you want a larger print area? - A delta printer? - CoreXY? - Silent? - Multi-filiment? - Budget? Either way, a good resource would be the RepRap wiki and forums.

Hi! As pointed out by Tom, your question is very broad in it's current state, for which reason I have to put it on hold. If you are new to Stack Exchange, please have a look at our [help], for an introduction to how our site works. Good luck!

Building a printer isn't that difficult due to RepRap (meant for rapid prototyping) but there are many factors that decide the price, difficulty, and abilities of a custom build.
Using a Melzi board (a glorified Arduino Mega with motor drivers) helps a great deal and Repetier firmware is built to integrate many different types of hardware so those take a lot out of the engineering part. While you might not have to learn C++ to configure the firmware, it helps a great deal. There are plenty of sites that walk you through everything.
After that, lead screws, GT2 belts, steppers, sensors, extruder, wires and the frame can be found very reliably from dozens of sites online.
Cartesian style printers are much easier to build than delta type printers. There are countless numbers of custom builds that people document and put online. Check out as many as you want and draw ideas and inspiration from what they do. Listen for problems and solutions.
And one of the most important things: there is a difference between cheap and inexpensive. Make sure you understand that. You don't want to burn your house down just to save a few pennies.


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E3D-v6 hotend on MK8 extruder
I have an MK8Makerbot(?) extruder on my HICTOP branded printer.
The problem with the E3D hotend is that the heatbreak is shorter and doesn't protrude through the top of the heatsink. Therefore I can't mount it to the motor mount.

Any ideas?

What exactly is your question? You obviously need to make some adapter or redesign the extruder. Do you want somebody to give you the model file? Have you tried searching on model repositories (e.g. thingiverse, youmagine, etc...)?

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1798616/#comments Like this one? but am confused as to how he got it to mount onto the motor mount

This looks like an Anet A8. Replace the whole x carriage.

@James Trotter I figured as much but was looking for a 2nd opinion. If you change your comment to answer, I will be more than happy to accept it. Now all I got to do is to print a mount for the inductive sensor since the nozzle in no longer in the same position due to the shorter heatbreak. DOH! Should of saw that coming. I need new glasses!!

I don't understand what you are trying to do with the heatbreak? have you removed the heatsink from the E3D and are just trying to put the heatbreak/block straight in to the bottom of MK8 extruder? You will lose all benefits of the E3D by doing this, as the heatsink/fan assembly of the V6 is what makes it perform so great. The Anet A8's stock cooling at the "cold end" is terrible, I cant see you getting any benefit without the full heatsink from E3D. I've written up a full answer that hopefully explains what you need to do, i can get the files i used if you need them

For reference, I have the same printer and am speaking from my experiences.
You have two routes you can take with this, but both are effectively the same result - you need to replace the X carriage.
If you want to re-use your existing extruder components you can pull the MK8 extruder off the X carriage and use it as the extruder to drive a bowden configuration, then all you need is a length of PTFE tube and the couplers between the E3d and the MK8 to hold the tube. This is probably the best solution as it takes a lot of weight off of the X-carriage resulting in significantly better print quality, the only downside is that printing with flexible filaments is a lot more difficult with a bowden configuration, if you intended to do a lot of that.
The other option (and the one I took) is to print an entire new x-carriage/extruder assembly. Because the Anet A8 is based off the Prusa and the Z/X carriage assemblies are basically the same as the original Prusa I3 you can just take any design for the Prusa and fit it onto the Anet, I did this with a gregs wade extruder & E3D hotend mount I found on thingiverse.
I didnt look too hard, but if you are adament on wanting to keep the MK8 extruder on the X-carriage and couple it direct-driven to the V6, you can probably find some x-carriage that lines the two up for this purpose (or you could even design one yourself if you are interested in doing so). I didn't look in to this route myself, so cannot give much guidance.

I use and would recommend the following parts: Integrated extruder solution with easy to mount accessory block and good locking of the hot end: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1383913 Simple but prolific and reliable X carriage: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:184933


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Trouble printing Poppy Robot with SpiderBot
For a university project, my partner and I need to print the robot Poppy. This is an open source robotic project, poppy-project.org.
We are printing it with a double extruder SpiderBot with PLA and HIPS as support material. Our principal issue is the weakness of the pieces we print.
It prevents us from removing the support material without damaging the piece. We don't have the chemicals to dissolve HIPS.
Have you some advice to make the pieces stronger, or a more gentle method to remove the HIPS?
Thanks for the replies

I've read that lemon juice can be used if limonene isn't available. Have you tried this to dissolve HIPS?

We don't tried yet. Our teacher warn us about toxic gases form during the dissolution reaction. Have you more information about the dissolution reaction?

I attempted recently to dissolve HIPS using tech-grade limonene, likely the most concentrated stuff available to the general public. It smells citrus-y and no toxins appeared to be created. No bubbling either. It completely dissolved the HIPS and most of the ABS part too! The MSDS for the chemical (http://www.sciencelab.com/msds.php?msdsId=9924496) suggests using a respirator. I suggest to not stick one's face into the liquid, normal distance and ventilation should be fine.

Having a bit more experience since my comment post above, I can offer up a possible solution. If your printer is able to print ABS, it works great with HIPS as support material. I've been printing boatloads of ABS models. When support is needed, the HIPS supports will bond reasonably well to the ABS, but when cooled, flick off with a sharp pointed instrument such as a razor knife point.
As an additional reference, a good bond to the print bed is required for both ABS and HIPS and if your slicer allows support density adjustment, increase the support in that manner. My slicer (Simplify3D) would print an accordian type of support unless instructed otherwise. I set up for alternating 45° patterns making a denser but also more vertically rigid structure.
If you cannot print ABS, PLA and PVA as Ogre55 suggests is about your only option. I see from the 'net that the SpiderBot Pro supports ABS, which implies the basic version might not have a heated bed.

Why not try using PVA(Polyvinyl alcohol) for support material.
I use it for my support material with PLA, and it dissolves in water.
here is a link to some on Amazon.
https://smile.amazon.com/eSUN-1-75mm-filament-natural-0-5kg/dp/B00MVIQASU/ref=sr_1_3?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1508539512&sr=1-3&keywords=PVA

This doesn't answer the question "Have you some advice to make the pieces stronger, or a more gentle method to remove the HIPS?".


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Anet A8 won't print
I have just built my Anet A8 and it won't print.
I will preheat it (190°C 60°C) and then press "Print File" and select, then it starts for a second, gets to around 11% and stops and shows "Preheat PLA". The PLA is already preheated - it is coming out of the nozzle.
Any help would be appreciated.

What does the "file" you're trying to print look like? How was it generated? Can you post the first few lines (up to and including the first few G1 commands) here?

Make sure the thermistor isn't loose in the extruder block. If  it even "wobbles" in its mount, the reported temperature will go awry.

Looks like you have a faulty Arduino or something on the board or nozzle assembly is loose. When the machine stops does it show any message?

This may be useful, Print won't start, stuck at 0% forever - in particular the advice regarding the M190.

I had a similar problem last week where the thermostat's heat shrink was being melted by the block and the two wires were touching. I fixed this by securing the thermistor and putting a thermal insulator between the block and the wires. I also put a small piece of heat shrink between the wires to insulate them so they will never touch. Thank you and I hope this helps.

Your answer has a sound foundation in your explanation. If the thermistor is shorting, it would result in an inaccurate reading to the processor. Your solution is also simple enough to implement as a test.

The Anet A8 files that come preloaded are .stl so if you try to print those it will say printing zero percent and then just switch right back to preheating PLA without any error message. Download a free slicer tool if that's the case.

mine came with gcode on the sdcard...


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How to switch motor outputs and use E1 as X, in Marlin firmware?
I broke up my electronics and now the output for X is not working. The stepper is OK.
There is any simple solution to remap the output pins? I want the E1 output to act as the X output.

If the answer below fixed your problem could you please accept it, using the "Tick icon" next to it, in order to remove it from the unanswered questions list?

When using Marlin firmware you could easily change the pin layout of the extra extruder (E1) with the broken X stepper pins by changing the pins_RAMPS.h file.
Download the firmware and open the firmware project in Arduino IDE. Navigate to the "Steppers" section of the pins_RAMPS.h file and replace:
#define X_STEP_PIN         54
#define X_DIR_PIN          55
#define X_ENABLE_PIN       38
#define X_CS_PIN           53

for:
#define X_STEP_PIN         36
#define X_DIR_PIN          34
#define X_ENABLE_PIN       30
#define X_CS_PIN           44

and also change:
#define E1_STEP_PIN        36
#define E1_DIR_PIN         34
#define E1_ENABLE_PIN      30
#define E1_CS_PIN          44

to:
#define E1_STEP_PIN        54
#define E1_DIR_PIN         55
#define E1_ENABLE_PIN      38
#define E1_CS_PIN          53

When the file is changed an saved, build and upload code to your board and plug the connector of the X stepper into the E1 header.

you can find pin.h in marlin directory and in pin.h file change # define pinout of z motor and extruder motor

Exactly! I found thease in pinsRAMPS.h thx for help!

This answer is very terse, and might not include enough details for some users. Perhaps you could improve it by including a bit more detail on what needs to be changed exactly?


text:
Are there many assembly type 3D printers?
I am wondering if anyone here knows of any 3D printers that work by assembling models from parts instead of extruding or setting material.
The closest I have found is the pixelstone but it appears to only be a prototype and I haven't seen or heard of any progress on it in over a year.
There is a similar house printer fastbrick but it is also just a prototype.
There is research papers on rapid prototyping with lego blocks and software for this (brickify), but these don't have machine assembly.
And there are 3D printers that can do conductive filament in the model but none of these seem to do pick and place as well and they still need a human to add the electronics or to change the tool head. (firepick)
So are there any 3D printers that work like pick and place machines and just stick blocks together?

Your question already contains what could be (part of) an answer.

The examples I have mentioned are all only prototype or beta releases. Just want to know if this is all there is.

Sadly, pixelstone wasn't archived, they have a single YT video left.

Yes and no
Yes, there are machines, that assemble things from parts. For example, SMT placement equipment & pick-and-place-machines. Almost all electronics are made this way. In fact, a lot of items are made by using Pick-and-Place machines in the final assembly.
On the other hand: No, there is no 3D-printer, that works by just being a P&P machine: it simply is not inside the specifications of additive manufacturing to be just an assembly machine. That is an assembly or pick and place machine, no matter if they call it printing. It is not.
combo machines?
However, I have seen a recent (2018) makerfaire video and a talk that was showing a prototype of an E3D toolhead swapper, which - in its idea - would allow to combine a 3D printer with a P&P machine. Their idea is to fully automate the manufacturing process, including adding non-printed parts with grabbers or the like.
2022 update
Multi-Tool 3D printers based on the E3D-Toolchanger including a pick-and-place are in small-scale use in at least one fabrication shop in their prototyping stage.  They also use conductive filaments in conjunction with their setup - but need to compensate for the considerable resistance of conductive filaments.

I've prototyped a design that used beads similar to these http://www.infostir.com/images/plastic-beads-350.jpg on a rod with a heated tip and then you just press them off into the design. But it wasn't too strong and had some pretty specific requirements of the model. Labelled it a failure.

This doesn't really answer the question. The question asks whether "pick and place" 3D printers exist, and the answer should be a factual one: either "yes, such printers exist, see these and these examples", or "no, such printer don't exist". Sharing your personal experience of a (failed) attempt to build such a printer is not an answer to the question. This is not a forum/discussion board, but a question and answer site. While your experiences may be related to the question, they don't answer it.

If you could expand your answer, maybe with some examples of "pick and place" printers, that you may have come across during your research into your prototype, then that would be great. However, as Tom says, as it stands, your answer doesn't really answer the OP's question, unfortunately.


text:
Is it possible to print an object that has a "roof" without anything under it?
I recently bought a 3d printer and right now i am printing a normal cube just to try it out. However I was wondering, when it has the last part left of the printing where it needs to create the roof, how will the filament stay there and not just fall down as there is nothing underneath?
Will I need to check the "Support" function in the print-settings before hand or is there something else i need to do?
Thanks a lot for the help/tips!

Sometimes a "roof" can be accomplished using the bridging feature of the printer. Depending on your slicer and on your printer's capabilities, the filament can extend from one edge of a structure to another without using support. The slicer will "recognize" the endpoints and the distance between and speed up the travel and possibly increase the fan cooling, allowing minimal sag between points. There are resources available on many model sites to print bridging test pieces to help determine the limits of your printer.
Expect some sag on the first layer, with a reduction for each successive layer. If you have, for example, five layers for the top faces, the last of the five may cover the sag of the previous ones.
Support is commonly used when there is no opposing endpoint to handle the bridging or when the distance exceeds the capabilities of the printer.
An example of a bridging test piece can be found on Thingiverse, although there are many to be found with a simple search.

If you are printing a solid cube with infill, then the infill will support the "roof".
If you are printing a hollow cube, then indeed, you should enable "support" to print a support structure under any overhangs.
Depending on the angle, you may not need supports. Generally, FDM printers can print overhanging structures up to 45 degrees without the need for supports. The steeper (i.e. further from parallel with the print bed) the angle, the better the result.


text:
Post processing FDM for strength
I'm looking for a post processing method for increasing the functional strength of a 3d printed part originally made by FDM. I've tried printing my part with solid infill but the layer separation is still the primary failure point. I'm looking for a way to get something closer to a cast or injection molded part. Obviously less strength but there is a pretty big gap in material properties.
The only method I've thought of that might work is drilling a small hole, or series of holes in my part to inject an epoxy into the part. Haven't tried it.
I'm open to any possible ideas or advice if someone has tried something like this. Not sure if this is necessarily the best place but thought it's a good place to start.

Recognizing that the posting party feels that FDM constructed parts are of insufficient strength for his purpose and allowing for proper layer bonding, one can understand that the model can be perfectly constructed and not reach the strength objective.
Filling a model with an epoxy or a casting resin will provide additional strength. Testing smaller, non-critical models is recommended to determine the level of increase. The design has to be re-engineered to provide for resin/epoxy flow within the model. Some epoxy and resin formulations generate heat when curing and may soften the model. The solution in such cases is to mix and pour small amounts, allowing for a pause between pours.
An alternative to filling a model is to reduce the perimeter (if applicable)  and apply a reinforcing layer. I've constructed satisfactorily printed models with insufficient strength for my purposes, but then applied fiberglass cloth and epoxy resin to the outside. A single layer provided the necessary strength in my case.
One could apply sufficient layers to provide all the necessary strength, effectively turning the model into a positive mold. This is commonly done with amateur-built aircraft of the Burt Rutan design style. More recently, an article appeared on the internet of a model being printed with wash-away support material only, covered in carbon fiber. The wash-away was washed away and the wing structure became the product. For your application, it may not be necessary or practical to remove the inner model.
Just as with the injection concept, one must re-engineer the model to allow for this type of reinforcement. Edges will have to be radiused or the sharp termination of reinforcement layer will become a weak point. Tight inside angles will have a similar problem.
Fiberglass cloth comes in various weights, measured in ounces per square foot (US). The lighter cloth is more capable of "turning corners" and fitting into tight angles.

Good point on heat generation from epoxy, I had forgotten about that. I'll give it a go. Thanks!

Different epoxies heat more or less - in general the longer the cure time, the less it self-heats. You can also put the casting in the refrigerator if the epoxy heats too much, and/or refrigerate the epoxy components before mixing; but it's usually easier to find a slower setting epoxy that self-heats less.

Layer separation will always be the primary failure point of FDM. So your best action would be to design parts in such a way that forces are applied across the Z axis, not along it.
If layer bonding is too weak, this is a problem that should be solved during printing. Possible reasons are:

Nozzle temperature too low
Filament contains moisture from the air
Filament covered with dust
Inappropriate ratio of nozzle diameter/layer height. We usually use 2 (0.4 nozzle for 0.2 layer) while theory suggests it should be more than 3.
Inappropriate cooling of part during printing, drafts.

If all this things are set right, no post-process treatment will improve the part. If not, you could reduce inner tensions by blasting the part with hot air gun, but it is better to solve the problem, not the consequences.

"If all this things are set right, no post-process treatment will improve the part." I do not think this is true. Even with the very best print settings, I think there are some postprocessing steps that can significantly improve the strength (see e.g. annealing PLA).

I would have to 100% disagree that "No post-process treatment will improve the part". As an example, filling the part with a material will increase the strength, acetone vapour treatment will also improve layer bonding and overall strength, coating the part with any material pretty much should improve the strength.

The layer bonding is the failure point, but it isn't too weak due to a printing problem. The part is a prototype of something that will be injection molded and I'm trying to make a more functional 3D printed part. My print is top notch and phenomenal, FDM is just inherently weak. Redesigning the part for FDM would be useless as FDM is not the intended manufacturing technique. I also don't think that blasting the part with hot air would solve anything. I would expect that to cause deformations on the outer shells which would be a bigger issue for a prototype.


text:
Identifying the plastic type of an unknown spool of filament or recyclable waste
Is there any way to test what kind your filament is? There are no labels on the spools and I don't know whether they are ABS or PLA.
I got the plastic with the printer, which is no longer sold (Solidoodle 2). Since I bought it on eBay that is probably why it has unprofessional filament. The plastic filament came with the printer which is now off sale (Solidoodle v2).
I set my extruder to 210 °C and bed to 50 °C and it printed fine (with tons of hairspray and painters tape).
I figured out where I got it. I got it from Solidoodle (who have gone out of business) when I bought the Solidoodle 2 right after it came out.
I bought PLA and ABS so it has to be one of the two. Any other ways without having to burn and smell plastic? I just have the roll with no numbers, works or anything on it. And how to I smell without breathing in the fumes?

Hi Noah! I've proposed an edit to the title of your question, because "how to determine what type of filament" isn't very clear as to your actual question: it could also refer to a question about what type of filament to use for a particular purpose.

If you try to print with it (or simply get a sample past the glass transition temperature), you might find PLA tends to smell somewhat sweet.

@HariGanti Well it definitely didn't smell sweet

Well, that seems to rule out PLA.

It doesn't rule out PLA. PLA has very little odor at all, and whether you'd describe it as "sweet" probably varies by individual. If it's prints at 210/50, with no difficulty, and it's not flexible (e.g. TPE/TPU), then it's almost surely PLA, possibly/likely blended with smallish amounts of other proprietary ingredients. There's really very little else with that printability at those temperatures, which is largely why PLA is so popular.

ABS dissolves in acetone, you could try clipping a small section and leave it in some acetone for a few minutes and if it begins to dissolve it's safe to assume that it's ABS, if not then you'll know that it's not.
This won't confirm that it is PLA, only whether it's ABS or not.

Great idea! This is a lot safer and I know that it is PLA or ABS.

I'm not sure how long it takes to dissolve, or melt but I think it's pretty quick. Certain types of nail polish removers contain acetone if you don't happen to have any laying around. Good luck!

I can identify filament type by smell of it when it is hot. Touch it with solder or smth.

PLA emits a sweet smell resembling the burnt sugar.
ABS smells of chemicals.
PVC smells of chemicals too, but this smell is very acrid and makes you sneeze. PVC is toxic to burn and to print!
PC has a very peculiar smell. If you bottle that smell into air freshener and call it "flower meadow" it will work.
PET You know this smell. You experience it every time you unbox new gadgets.
HDPE and PP smell of church. Of hot candles. They are not easy to separate, but an experienced person can do it by sound and feeling of snapping filament.

Using The Burn Test to Identify Plastic Materials is one way. From the link:

To initially determine whether a material is thermoplastic (meltable)
or thermoset (non-meltable) type, heat a metal or glass stirring rod
until it glows red or orange (to about 500°F / 260°C) and press it
against the sample. If the sample softens, the material is a
thermoplastic; if it does not, it's probably a thermoset.
Next, hold the sample to the edge of a flame until it ignites. If no
flame is produced quickly, hold the sample in the flame for about 10
seconds. If the material burns, note the color of the flame, the
nature of the smoke, the presence of soot in the air and whether,
while burning, the sample drips.
Next, extinguish the flame and cautiously smell the fumes. To identify
the odor, samples of known plastic samples for comparison can be most
helpful. Finally, check your observations against the known
characteristics of each plastic as shown in the table below. Once you
have made a tentative identification, it is usually desirable to
repeat the flame test once or twice to confirm the results of the
original identification. Remember that additives may affect results.
For example: flame retardants can mask the polymer material's normal
flame & smoke burning characteristics.

However, remember ABS and PLA aren't the only types of filament.
ABS and PLA have different melting points and smell different when melting. Maybe try melting little bits on a soldering iron or stove top. The smell could give it away. Just don't breathe in the fumes, it can be toxic, also molten plastic particles in lungs aren't great either. I'd recommend contacting the supplier.
No markings complicates matters. Not very professional of the supplier. Smelling without breathing in fumes, just don't put your face directly over the fumes, just hold it away from your face and sniff sniff the air. if the smoke curls are going into your nose you are doing it wrong.

@Greenonline: I think to be relevant to 3D printing rather than general materials science, it should be noted that the first paragraph is not needed, or even just omit it. Any filament for printing is necessarily going to be a thermoplastic, not a thermoset, and the procedure described for the unnecessary test is gratuitously dangerous.

I merely quoted the article as it was, otherwise, a link only answer. I can see what you mean, nevertheless, the question was about unidentified materials, so it does give a broader picture as is stands. Maybe put your concerns into your answer, referring back to this answer - that would seem to be a good idea, as, IMHO, a potential loss of information through an edit would be a shame.

I know this question is old, but the existing answers are all overly general relative to the question. If someone is in OP's same sitution, the "prints at 210/50" data point pretty much guarantees it's PLA. No subjective "smell tests" or playing with fire needed.
The comments indicated some doubt that it's PLA due to lack of "sweet" odor, but PLA has very little odor at all, and whether you'd describe it as "sweet" probably varies by individual.
Aside from "PLA" (usually blends of PLA of smallish amounts of proprietary ingredients), there's virtually nothing on the filament market that prints at these temperatures, especially not without adhesion and warping problems. TPU/TPE can also print at these temperatures, but you'd usually know if that's what you had just from the flexibility. These properties of PLA are largely why PLA is so popular.


text:
MKS base 1.5 (E0 & E1) not working
I have bought two MKS base 1.5 boards. Both extruder ports are not working. I made sure the stepper motor still works and that there is nothing wrong with the Marlin firmware that I know of.

Any ideas?

Is the hotend above 170 °C? Because Marlin will not turn on E0 and E1 until it can extrude without causing damage.

I figured out what was wrong. Turns out the no extrude command was uncommented and worked fine when changed the min temp on it.

Are the E0 and the E1 ports not working on both of the boards that you purchased?

@Chris Manning - I see that you commented on the deleted answer from pisstoff (that was converted to a comment) the following: I figured out what was wrong. Turns out the no extrude command was uncommented and worked fine when changed the min temp on it.  Could you post that comment as an answer and mark the answer as accepted? That would remove your question from the unanswered list, and as a beta site we need to keep that list short. Thanks in advance.

The OP has solved the problem as read from a comment on a deleted answer. So far the OP has been reluctant to post the answer; therefore his comment is converted into a community answer.

It appears that the OP had incorrectly configured his firmware considering the comment:
"I figured out what was wrong. Turns out the no extrude command was uncommented and worked fine when changed the min temp on it."


text:
Cura 2.4 missing "split object into parts"
I have an stl with multiple parts that I want to split up. Cura 15 had an option to "split object into parts" but I can't find that in cura 2.4. Did it get removed?

Right clicking a model, does NOT show "split model" at any point. Did cura do away with this? I can't believe that they would...

@Brian - please see this comment

I don't think this feature was implemented at all with Cura v2.x.
As the developers say on the v2.1 release, "Cura has been completely reengineered".
Finding proper changelog documentation appears to be pretty hard because they have not posted any actual changelogs except the "user friendly viewable" changelogs which only list additions of new features but don't display what everything they changed between each version of their application.
Here is the most complete changelog I could find. I do not see any mention of this feature. https://ultimaker.com/en/products/cura-software/release-notes
Going through the Cura 2 manual or the Cura 2.1 FAQ, also does not mention this feature.
https://ultimaker.com/en/resources/20406-installation-cura-2-1
Furthermore, searching around for version 2 "split objects" lead to forum posts of people suggesting to use some other software to achieve this specific task. If you decide to go this route, I recommend Meshmixer from Autodesk to manipulate your models and then export to STL and import them to Cura either as a whole new position set up or separate model files where you can change them there as you need to (meshmixer allows for object repositioning around a defined build plate so you can just import the whole assembly into cura and then print).
It might also be worth to put in a feature request on the UM forums.

I think they removed it because it was inefficient (pretty slow). Still, I just started 3D printing and was a bit disappointed a seemingly easy task needed an other software (Meshmixer) to be achieved.

Is this just your guess, or have you heard from someone at Ultimaker that they removed it because it was too slow?

We haven't removed it. We just haven't reimplemented it. Cura 2 was a reimplementation of the whole frontend.

Nope, not in my version 2.4+
Seems like something so useful and silly to have to get yet another program to make it work.  Like that is somehow faster?   I have no problem with slow.
Can't believe it would be slower than hopping into another program, opening file, dividing file, saving stl file, then reloading into Cura again...  Cura slicing it would need to be awfully slow for that to be faster.

Although this question has been answered (and accepted) and commented by one of the developers, the value of bringing this up after more than a year does not seem useful as your answer does not add new information. It adds an opinion. An addition would be if it would have been reinstated from version X; but the version I use (Cura 3.2) does not have the option either.

right... my opinion that it is a feature that should be available but is still not implemented more than a year after the initial comment.

You can split STL files in Cura 2.4
Just open your STL file in Cura and right click it.
Select "Split object into parts"

Are you sure? The other answers suggest the feature is not present in Cura 2.x, including a comment from someone who apparently works at Ultimaker.

Can you show a screenshot?


text:
Extruder temp is too high
I am using Simplify3d software to print my first object, I set the temp to 230, but I notice that the temp some times reaches to 300 c, any help, here is temp plot

here is the communication code of last process
SENT: G1 X190.134 Y143.078 E11.6837
READ: ok
SENT: M105
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X175.230 Y157.981 E12.6300
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X175.239 Y158.007 E12.6312
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X175.399 Y158.378 E12.6494
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X190.541 Y143.236 E13.6109
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X190.928 Y143.415 E13.6301
READ: ok T:224 @:193 B:0
SENT: G1 X175.569 Y158.774 E14.6054
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X175.618 Y158.887 E14.6109
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X175.759 Y159.150 E14.6243
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X191.315 Y143.594 E15.6122
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X191.702 Y143.772 E15.6313
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X175.955 Y159.519 E16.6312
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X176.069 Y159.733 E16.6421
READ: ok
SENT: M105
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X176.163 Y159.878 E16.6498
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X192.627 Y143.413 E17.6953
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X192.910 Y143.696 E17.7133
READ: ok
SENT: M105
READ: ok T:225 @:191 B:0
SENT: G1 X176.384 Y160.222 E18.7627
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X176.588 Y160.538 E18.7796
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X176.608 Y160.564 E18.7810
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X193.283 Y143.889 E19.8398
READ: ok T:227 @:205 B:0
SENT: G1 X193.869 Y143.868 E19.8662
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X176.854 Y160.883 E20.9467
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X177.100 Y161.203 E20.9648
READ: ok
SENT: M105
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X194.403 Y143.900 E22.0636
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X194.520 Y143.918 E22.0689
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X194.728 Y143.970 E22.0785
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X194.854 Y144.014 E22.0845
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X177.362 Y161.507 E23.1953
READ: ok T:227 @:143 B:0
SENT: G1 X177.631 Y161.804 E23.2132
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X195.239 Y144.196 E24.3314
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X195.313 Y144.239 E24.3352
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X195.460 Y144.347 E24.3434
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X195.562 Y144.438 E24.3495
READ: ok
SENT: M105
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X177.909 Y162.091 E25.4705
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X178.202 Y162.364 E25.4885
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X195.825 Y144.741 E26.6075
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X195.862 Y144.792 E26.6103
READ: ok
SENT: M105
READ: ok T:231 @:120 B:0
SENT: G1 X195.957 Y144.955 E26.6188
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X196.026 Y145.105 E26.6262
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X178.495 Y162.636 E27.7394
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X178.519 Y162.659 E27.7409
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X178.810 Y162.887 E27.7575
READ: ok T:233 @:146 B:0
SENT: G1 X196.164 Y145.533 E28.8595
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X196.178 Y145.587 E28.8620
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X196.213 Y145.810 E28.8721
READ: ok
SENT: M105
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X196.230 Y146.033 E28.8822
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X179.127 Y163.136 E29.9682
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X179.273 Y163.251 E29.9766
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X179.456 Y163.372 E29.9864
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X196.210 Y146.619 E31.0503
READ: ok T:236 @:97 B:0
SENT: G1 X196.196 Y146.982 E31.0666
READ: ok
SENT: M105
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X196.304 Y147.090 E31.0735
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X179.797 Y163.597 E32.1217
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X180.072 Y163.779 E32.1365
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X180.143 Y163.817 E32.1401
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X196.587 Y147.373 E33.1843
READ: ok T:235 @:88 B:0
SENT: G1 X196.745 Y147.531 E33.1943
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X196.129 Y148.146 E33.2334
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X196.206 Y148.320 E33.2419
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X180.508 Y164.017 E34.2387
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X180.874 Y164.217 E34.2574
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X196.379 Y148.712 E35.2420
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X196.553 Y149.104 E35.2613
READ: ok
SENT: M105
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X181.263 Y164.394 E36.2321
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X181.655 Y164.568 E36.2514
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X196.726 Y149.497 E37.2084
READ: ok
SENT: M105
READ: ok T:237 @:66 B:0
SENT: G1 X196.793 Y149.648 E37.2158
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X196.882 Y149.906 E37.2281
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X182.065 Y164.723 E38.1690
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X182.485 Y164.869 E38.1889
READ: ok T:239 @:50 B:0
SENT: G1 X197.027 Y150.327 E39.1124
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X197.106 Y150.555 E39.1232
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X197.159 Y150.761 E39.1328
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X182.919 Y165.001 E40.0370
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X183.368 Y165.117 E40.0578
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X197.274 Y151.211 E40.9409
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X197.344 Y151.484 E40.9535
READ: ok
SENT: M105
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X197.376 Y151.675 E40.9622
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X183.834 Y165.217 E41.8221
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X184.317 Y165.299 E41.8441
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X197.457 Y152.159 E42.6785
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X197.503 Y152.430 E42.6908
READ: ok T:240 @:15 B:0
SENT: G1 X197.522 Y152.660 E42.7012
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X184.819 Y165.363 E43.5078
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X185.340 Y165.408 E43.5313
READ: ok
SENT: M105
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X197.566 Y153.182 E44.3077
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X197.583 Y153.385 E44.3169
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X197.584 Y153.730 E44.3323
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X185.889 Y165.425 E45.0750
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X186.453 Y165.427 E45.1003
READ: ok T:243 @:0 B:0
SENT: G1 X197.584 Y154.295 E45.8071
READ: ok
SENT: M105
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X197.584 Y154.344 E45.8094
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X197.538 Y154.907 E45.8347
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X187.065 Y165.380 E46.4997
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X187.435 Y165.350 E46.5164
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X187.705 Y165.306 E46.5287
READ: ok T:244 @:0 B:0
SENT: G1 X197.465 Y155.546 E47.1484
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X197.352 Y156.225 E47.1793
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X188.382 Y165.195 E47.7489
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X189.137 Y165.005 E47.7839
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X197.163 Y156.980 E48.2935
READ: ok
SENT: M105
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X197.113 Y157.176 E48.3026
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X196.893 Y157.814 E48.3329
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X189.970 Y164.738 E48.7725
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X190.047 Y164.712 E48.7762
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X190.214 Y164.653 E48.7841
READ: ok T:244 @:0 B:0
SENT: G1 X190.935 Y164.339 E48.8194
READ: ok
SENT: M105
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X196.496 Y158.778 E49.1726
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X196.415 Y158.961 E49.1816
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X195.958 Y159.804 E49.2246
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X195.812 Y160.027 E49.2366
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X192.188 Y163.651 E49.4668
READ: ok T:247 @:0 B:0
SENT: G92 E0
SENT: G1 E-1.0000 F1800
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X192.126 Y164.098 F3600
READ: ok
SENT: G1 Z0.870 F1000
READ: ok
SENT: G1 E0.0000 F1800
READ: ok
SENT: G92 E0
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X191.259 Y164.568 E0.0443 F1875
READ: ok
READ: ok
SENT: M105
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X190.356 Y164.963 E0.0886
SENT: G1 X189.423 Y165.283 E0.1328
READ: ok
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X188.467 Y165.524 E0.1771
READ: ok T:249 @:0 B:0
SENT: G1 X187.494 Y165.686 E0.2214
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X186.510 Y165.766 E0.2657
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X186.164 Y165.768 E0.2813
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X185.527 Y165.765 E0.3099
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X184.544 Y165.682 E0.3542
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X183.571 Y165.518 E0.3985
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X182.616 Y165.274 E0.4427
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X181.684 Y164.952 E0.4870
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X180.782 Y164.554 E0.5313
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X179.914 Y164.081 E0.5756
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X179.624 Y163.893 E0.5912
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X179.094 Y163.541 E0.6197
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X178.316 Y162.933 E0.6641
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X177.593 Y162.263 E0.7083
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X176.928 Y161.535 E0.7526
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X176.323 Y160.753 E0.7970
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X176.133 Y160.464 E0.8125
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X175.790 Y159.929 E0.8411
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X175.323 Y159.059 E0.8854
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X174.931 Y158.154 E0.9297
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X174.615 Y157.220 E0.9739
READ: ok
SENT: M105
SENT: G1 X174.377 Y156.263 E1.0182
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X174.220 Y155.290 E1.0625
READ: ok
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X174.143 Y154.304 E1.1069
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X174.141 Y153.958 E1.1224
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X174.148 Y153.323 E1.1509
READ: ok T:250 @:0 B:0
SENT: G1 X174.235 Y152.339 E1.1953
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X174.403 Y151.368 E1.2396
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X174.651 Y150.413 E1.2838
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X174.976 Y149.483 E1.3281
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X175.378 Y148.583 E1.3724
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X175.855 Y147.715 E1.4168
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X176.042 Y147.425 E1.4323
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X176.396 Y146.898 E1.4608
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X177.009 Y146.123 E1.5052
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X177.690 Y145.393 E1.5500
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X177.735 Y145.349 E1.5528
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X178.478 Y144.684 E1.5976
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X179.266 Y144.089 E1.6419
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X180.101 Y143.562 E1.6863
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X180.976 Y143.105 E1.7306
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X181.886 Y142.723 E1.7749
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X182.825 Y142.418 E1.8192
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X183.786 Y142.191 E1.8636
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X184.763 Y142.045 E1.9079
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X185.748 Y141.980 E1.9523
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X186.735 Y141.997 E1.9966
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X187.717 Y142.096 E2.0409
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X188.688 Y142.276 E2.0852
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X189.641 Y142.536 E2.1296
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X190.568 Y142.874 E2.1739
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X191.867 Y143.474 E2.2381
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X192.518 Y142.823 E2.2795
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X193.105 Y143.410 E2.3167
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X193.821 Y143.318 E2.3492
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X194.266 Y143.309 E2.3691
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X194.514 Y143.327 E2.3803
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X194.805 Y143.374 E2.3936
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X195.033 Y143.431 E2.4041
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X195.292 Y143.522 E2.4164
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X195.490 Y143.613 E2.4262
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X195.716 Y143.745 E2.4379
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X195.883 Y143.867 E2.4473
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X196.072 Y144.038 E2.4587
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X196.210 Y144.191 E2.4679
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X196.362 Y144.398 E2.4795
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X196.469 Y144.581 E2.4890
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X196.581 Y144.824 E2.5010
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X196.655 Y145.036 E2.5111
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X196.724 Y145.312 E2.5239
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X196.762 Y145.553 E2.5348
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X196.785 Y145.855 E2.5484
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X196.779 Y146.212 E2.5644
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X196.685 Y146.990 E2.5996
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X197.225 Y147.531 E2.6340
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X196.534 Y148.222 E2.6779
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X197.110 Y149.524 E2.7418
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X197.432 Y150.457 E2.7861
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X197.676 Y151.413 E2.8304
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X197.841 Y152.387 E2.8748
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X197.923 Y153.371 E2.9191
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X197.924 Y154.358 E2.9634
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X197.843 Y155.342 E3.0078
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X197.681 Y156.316 E3.0521
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X197.439 Y157.273 E3.0964
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X197.118 Y158.207 E3.1408
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X196.721 Y159.111 E3.1851
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X196.250 Y159.979 E3.2294
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X195.709 Y160.805 E3.2737
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X195.101 Y161.583 E3.3181
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X194.454 Y162.285 E3.3610
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X193.729 Y162.953 E3.4052
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X192.950 Y163.560 E3.4496
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X192.661 Y163.751 E3.4651
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X192.126 Y164.098 E3.4937
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X192.331 Y164.442 F3600
SENT: G92 E0
READ: ok
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X191.434 Y164.927 E0.0458 F1250
READ: ok
READ: ok
SENT: M105
SENT: G1 X190.501 Y165.336 E0.0915
SENT: G1 X189.537 Y165.667 E0.1373
READ: ok
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X188.549 Y165.916 E0.1830
READ: ok T:252 @:0 B:0
SENT: G1 X187.543 Y166.083 E0.2288
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X186.527 Y166.166 E0.2746
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X186.164 Y166.168 E0.2909
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X185.509 Y166.165 E0.3203
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X184.493 Y166.079 E0.3661
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X183.488 Y165.909 E0.4118
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X182.501 Y165.657 E0.4576
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X181.538 Y165.324 E0.5034
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X180.606 Y164.913 E0.5491
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X179.710 Y164.425 E0.5949
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X179.405 Y164.228 E0.6112
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X178.859 Y163.866 E0.6406
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X178.057 Y163.237 E0.6864
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X177.309 Y162.545 E0.7321
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X176.621 Y161.793 E0.7779
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X175.998 Y160.986 E0.8237
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X175.798 Y160.683 E0.8400
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X175.445 Y160.131 E0.8694
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X174.963 Y159.233 E0.9152
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X174.557 Y158.298 E0.9609
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X174.231 Y157.333 E1.0067
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X173.985 Y156.344 E1.0524
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X173.822 Y155.338 E1.0982
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X173.743 Y154.321 E1.1440
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X173.741 Y153.958 E1.1603
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X173.749 Y153.303 E1.1897
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X173.838 Y152.287 E1.2355
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X174.012 Y151.283 E1.2812
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X174.268 Y150.297 E1.3270
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X174.604 Y149.335 E1.3727
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X175.019 Y148.404 E1.4185
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X175.511 Y147.510 E1.4643
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X175.708 Y147.206 E1.4806
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X176.073 Y146.663 E1.5100
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X176.705 Y145.862 E1.5558
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X177.403 Y145.114 E1.6017
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X177.461 Y145.057 E1.6054
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X178.224 Y144.375 E1.6513
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X179.038 Y143.760 E1.6971
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X179.901 Y143.215 E1.7430
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X180.806 Y142.743 E1.7888
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X181.747 Y142.348 E1.8346
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X182.717 Y142.032 E1.8804
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X183.710 Y141.798 E1.9263
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X184.720 Y141.647 E1.9721
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X185.738 Y141.580 E2.0179
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X186.759 Y141.598 E2.0637
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X187.774 Y141.700 E2.1095
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X188.777 Y141.886 E2.1554
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X189.762 Y142.155 E2.2012
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X190.721 Y142.504 E2.2470
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X191.782 Y142.994 E2.2995
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X192.518 Y142.257 E2.3462
READ: ok
SENT: M105
SENT: G1 X193.249 Y142.988 E2.3926
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X193.791 Y142.918 E2.4172
READ: ok
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X194.276 Y142.909 E2.4390
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X194.561 Y142.930 E2.4518
READ: ok T:252 @:0 B:0
SENT: G1 X194.886 Y142.982 E2.4666
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X195.147 Y143.047 E2.4787
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X195.443 Y143.150 E2.4927
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X195.676 Y143.258 E2.5042
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X195.935 Y143.410 E2.5178
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X196.136 Y143.557 E2.5289
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X196.355 Y143.755 E2.5422
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X196.521 Y143.938 E2.5533
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X196.696 Y144.178 E2.5666
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X196.824 Y144.395 E2.5779
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X196.952 Y144.673 E2.5917
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X197.039 Y144.921 E2.6035
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X197.116 Y145.232 E2.6179
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X197.160 Y145.507 E2.6303
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X197.185 Y145.843 E2.6455
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X197.179 Y146.239 E2.6633
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X197.105 Y146.845 E2.6907
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X197.791 Y147.531 E2.7342
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X197.011 Y148.311 E2.7838
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X197.482 Y149.377 E2.8361
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X197.816 Y150.342 E2.8819
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X198.068 Y151.331 E2.9278
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X198.238 Y152.337 E2.9736
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X198.323 Y153.354 E3.0194
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X198.324 Y154.375 E3.0652
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X198.241 Y155.392 E3.1111
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X198.073 Y156.398 E3.1569
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X197.823 Y157.388 E3.2027
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X197.491 Y158.353 E3.2485
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X197.080 Y159.287 E3.2944
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X196.594 Y160.184 E3.3402
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X196.034 Y161.038 E3.3860
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X195.406 Y161.842 E3.4318
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X194.737 Y162.568 E3.4762
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X193.988 Y163.259 E3.5219
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X193.183 Y163.885 E3.5677
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X192.880 Y164.085 E3.5840
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X192.331 Y164.442 E3.6134
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X179.387 Y163.328 F3600
SENT: G92 E0
READ: ok
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X176.574 Y160.515 E0.1786 F2000
READ: ok
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X176.418 Y160.279 E0.1914
SENT: G1 X176.083 Y159.757 E0.2192
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X175.739 Y159.114 E0.2519
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X180.801 Y164.177 E0.5734
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X180.933 Y164.248 E0.5801
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X181.809 Y164.635 E0.6231
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X181.834 Y164.644 E0.6243
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X175.269 Y158.079 E1.0412
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X175.248 Y158.032 E1.0435
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X174.973 Y157.217 E1.0821
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X182.699 Y164.943 E1.5727
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X182.714 Y164.948 E1.5734
READ: ok
SENT: M105
SENT: G1 X183.460 Y165.138 E1.6080
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X174.775 Y156.453 E2.1595
READ: ok
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X174.711 Y156.195 E2.1714
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X174.639 Y155.752 E2.1916
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X184.159 Y165.272 E2.7962
READ: ok T:252 @:0 B:0
SENT: G1 X184.586 Y165.344 E2.8156
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X184.817 Y165.364 E2.8260
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X174.545 Y155.092 E3.4782
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X174.498 Y154.479 E3.5058
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X185.434 Y165.416 E4.2003
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X185.542 Y165.425 E4.2052
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X186.012 Y165.427 E4.2262
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X174.482 Y153.897 E4.9584
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X174.488 Y153.340 E4.9834
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X174.488 Y153.338 E4.9835
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X186.570 Y165.420 E5.7507
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X187.093 Y165.377 E5.7742
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X174.534 Y152.818 E6.5717
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X174.573 Y152.383 E6.5914
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X174.586 Y152.305 E6.5949
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X187.604 Y165.323 E7.4216
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X188.089 Y165.242 E7.4436
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X174.669 Y151.822 E8.2958
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X174.736 Y151.440 E8.3133
READ: ok
SENT: M105
SENT: G1 X174.760 Y151.347 E8.3176
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X188.562 Y165.150 E9.1940
READ: ok
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X189.014 Y165.036 E9.2149
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X174.876 Y150.898 E10.1127
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X174.976 Y150.513 E10.1306
READ: ok T:253 @:0 B:0
SENT: G1 X174.997 Y150.453 E10.1334
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X189.456 Y164.912 E11.0516
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X189.878 Y164.768 E11.0716
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X175.144 Y150.034 E12.0072
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X175.290 Y149.615 E12.0271
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X190.294 Y164.619 E12.9799
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X190.688 Y164.447 E12.9991
READ: ok
SENT: M105
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X175.464 Y149.223 E13.9658
READ: ok
SENT: M140 S60
READ: ok T:259 @:0 B:0
SENT: G1 X175.639 Y148.832 E13.9851
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X191.081 Y164.274 E14.9656
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X191.109 Y164.262 E14.9670
READ: ok
SENT: M105
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X191.450 Y164.077 E14.9844
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X175.833 Y148.460 E15.9761
READ: ok T:257 @:0 B:0
SENT: G1 X176.034 Y148.095 E15.9948
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X191.817 Y163.879 E16.9970
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X191.953 Y163.806 E17.0039
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X192.169 Y163.665 E17.0155
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X176.244 Y147.740 E18.0268
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X176.326 Y147.612 E18.0336
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X176.469 Y147.399 E18.0451
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X192.512 Y163.442 E19.0638
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X192.751 Y163.284 E19.0767
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X192.846 Y163.210 E19.0821
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X176.699 Y147.064 E20.1074
READ: ok
SENT: M105
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X176.949 Y146.748 E20.1255
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X193.164 Y162.963 E21.1551
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X193.482 Y162.715 E21.1732
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X177.198 Y146.431 E22.2072
READ: ok
SENT: M105
READ: ok T:259 @:0 B:0
SENT: G1 X177.267 Y146.345 E22.2122
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X177.465 Y146.132 E22.2252
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X193.778 Y162.446 E23.2611
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X194.073 Y162.174 E23.2791
READ: ok
SENT: M104 S0 T0
READ: ok T:260 @:0 B:0
SENT: G1 X177.738 Y145.840 E24.3164
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X177.934 Y145.630 E24.3293
READ: ok
SENT: M105
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X177.968 Y145.596 E24.3314
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X178.017 Y145.553 E24.3343
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X194.355 Y161.891 E25.3718
READ: ok T:264 @:0 B:0
SENT: G1 X194.626 Y161.597 E25.3898
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X178.315 Y145.286 E26.4255
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X178.614 Y145.019 E26.4435
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X194.893 Y161.298 E27.4772
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X195.141 Y160.980 E27.4953
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X178.930 Y144.769 E28.5247
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X179.252 Y144.526 E28.5429
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X195.389 Y160.662 E29.5675
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X195.432 Y160.607 E29.5707
READ: ok
SENT: M105
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X195.617 Y160.325 E29.5858
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X179.583 Y144.291 E30.6040
READ: ok
SENT: M105
READ: ok T:262 @:0 B:0
SENT: G1 X179.930 Y144.072 E30.6224
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X195.841 Y159.983 E31.6327
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X195.958 Y159.804 E31.6423
READ: ok T:260 @:0 B:0
SENT: G1 X196.053 Y159.629 E31.6513
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X180.277 Y143.853 E32.6530
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X180.649 Y143.660 E32.6719
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X196.252 Y159.263 E33.6626
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X196.415 Y158.961 E33.6780
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X196.446 Y158.891 E33.6815
READ: ok
SENT: M105
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X181.021 Y143.466 E34.6610
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X181.121 Y143.414 E34.6661
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X181.412 Y143.291 E34.6802
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X196.619 Y158.498 E35.6459
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X196.791 Y158.105 E35.6652
READ: ok T:262 @:0 B:0
SENT: G1 X181.810 Y143.124 E36.6165
READ: ok
SENT: M105
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X182.005 Y143.042 E36.6259
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X182.223 Y142.971 E36.6362
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X196.938 Y157.686 E37.5706
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X197.082 Y157.265 E37.5906
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X182.650 Y142.832 E38.5071
READ: ok T:262 @:0 B:0
SENT: G1 X182.917 Y142.745 E38.5197
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X183.088 Y142.705 E38.5276
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X197.203 Y156.820 E39.4238
READ: ok
SENT: M105
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X197.317 Y156.368 E39.4448
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X183.546 Y142.597 E40.3192
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X183.851 Y142.525 E40.3333
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X184.015 Y142.501 E40.3408
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X197.407 Y155.892 E41.1911
READ: ok T:264 @:0 B:0
SENT: G1 X197.488 Y155.408 E41.2132
READ: ok
SENT: M105
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X184.507 Y142.427 E42.0375
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X184.799 Y142.383 E42.0507
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X185.015 Y142.369 E42.0604
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X197.539 Y154.893 E42.8557
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X197.582 Y154.370 E42.8793
READ: ok T:269 @:0 B:0
SENT: G1 X185.546 Y142.334 E43.6436
READ: ok
SENT: M105
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X185.756 Y142.320 E43.6530
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X186.104 Y142.326 E43.6686
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X197.584 Y153.806 E44.3976
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X197.583 Y153.385 E44.4165
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X197.570 Y153.227 E44.4237
READ: ok T:270 @:0 B:0
SENT: G1 X186.680 Y142.336 E45.1152
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X186.715 Y142.337 E45.1168
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X187.305 Y142.397 E45.1434
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X197.518 Y152.609 E45.7919
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X197.503 Y152.430 E45.8000
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X197.422 Y151.947 E45.8220
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X187.962 Y142.487 E46.4227
READ: ok
SENT: M105
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X188.612 Y142.608 E46.4524
READ: ok
SENT: G1 X188.662 Y142.622 E46.4547
Total build time: 4.48 minutes
READ: ok
READ: ok T:269 @:0 B:0
SENT: M105
READ: ok T:267 @:0 B:0
SENT: M105
READ: ok T:270 @:0 B:0
SENT: M105
READ: ok T:270 @:0 B:0
Disconnected.

What printer are you using? I had a friend who encountered this problem, at first we thought it was the slicer. Turns out, the wires for his extruder heater block and hot end fan were shorting, so whenever the extruder was turned on, it would keep heating no matter what the temp was set to. To test if this or something similar is happening, first unload your filament. Then, open up a small file in Simplify3D and set the temp to something low, like 100C. If the extruder turns on and just keeps heating, check your wiring. Make sure no wires are shorting and there are no bare/exposed connections.

Good point.  The other common error is connecting the bed thermistor to the extruder thermistor jack on the control board. Then the controller never "sees" the temperature on the extruder and madly keeps heating it.


text:
Can a 3D model of a copyrighted work be rendered legally without infringement?
I know this is still gray territory and it is asked so many times within the 3D printing and maker community but I'm curious about the limits of 3D models and were it touches on Free Use and infringement. I'm not trying to push the envelope, I just want to be clear on the matter.
Is it legal if a design is rendered in a CAD program of a copyrighted material for no purpose of using, distributing, creating, mixing, internalizing, re-licensing under GPL/CC, or any unauthorized use outlined by the owner of the original work? For instance, if someone is demonstrating the abilities of a particular CAD and makes a mock-up of Mickey Mouse just to show the limits of said CAD and the STL/OBJ isn't released or distributed and a letter of intent is given along with the demonstration regarding the original work (in this case, Mickey), is that infringement? In this example, no loss of revenue or sales will affect the original owner, no claims of ownership is implied or stated, and no physical model will be created.
While considering all of this, I figured that it wasn't very much different than if an artist sat down and drew a picture of Mickey Mouse. As long as the picture isn't sold, distributed, or released, in my mind, that is the same thing as a 3D render.
To further the details of the 3D model, the render would be made from scratch and not imported, copied, or reverse engineered from any other work. Bottom line, it will be a likeness that is created but it will be as close to the real thing as possible to demonstrate capabilities of a particular program (such as organic shapes, stitching, grouping, layering, or any other facet and characterization of 3D modeling).
I already understand that it is recommended to err on the side of caution and steer clear of things like this but it is more of a curiosity than a request for legal advice regarding a specific case.
Can this be covered under Fair Use?
Since there is nothing to be made from creating the render, it isn't released or distributed to others, isn't re-licensed, and no ownership is implied/credit to the original owner is given, is this Free Use or copyright infringement?

This is a legal, not an engineering question and is not appropriate for this site.  Notwithstanding, it's also a duplicate.

@CarlWitthoft I must admit I am partial to legal questions, but I don't see why legal questions - if related to 3D printing - should be off topic. For example, photo.SE has a copyright tag and more than 100 questions using it. Copyright/legal issues can come up during a number of activities, and many SE sites allow legal questions related to their topics.

I would have to do more research, but I believe this may fall under "derivative works".

First, copyright laws are complex and depend heavily on the specific details.  IMO, your question is really too broad to answer.
An interesting example of how details and interpretation affect whether something is a violation or not is Kienitz v Sconnie Nation.  In this case a copyrighted photo was clearly copied, modified, and used to make a t-shirt that was sold; but, it was not deemed a copyright violation.  On the surface it seems like a violation; but, the court ruled it was not a copyright violation because of the specific details of the case.  Using something as a starting point for a unique creative work that is clearly your own creation is not copying.  I am sure you can tell the difference.
Second, in your description you mention "Free Use".  If the owner has granted "Free Use" of their product; but, they are still wanting to declare the item copyrighted, I would hope that they have granted that "Free Use" under a defined agreement.  In that case, it would seem likely that the creator may just be trying to protect his design from being plagiarized and/or sold/used in a way that is against his intent.
If you have a way to contact the owner, why not just contact them and ask their permission for what you want to do.  If they have put it out for public use, they would probably be excited to have other people see their creation.  Just make sure they gets the credit for the design.  If it is a creation they are intending to protect (like Disney does with Mickey Mouse); then, the answer will be an unequivocal no.  Note that one weird exception is that Disney has granted use rights for Donald Duck to the University of Oregon "Ducks".
Finally, you state that that your intent is "for no purpose of using, distributing, creating, mixing, ..." and you list almost every way of making it public.  If your intent is for what you make/copy to never make it into the public domain; then, how will your question ever be anything other than hypothetical?  I know that there is presently no "private use" exclusion for copyrighted material.  It isn't legal to copy someone's DVD for you to watch privately; but, in reality, no one gets prosecuted for a single private instance.  It is abuse that gets prosecuted.
In what you intend, it would seem that you be best suited to seek out first what would be the "right" thing to do rather than just focusing on what would be "legal".  If you are concerned what you want to do may be wrong and/or illegal, it is probably best to not do it.

Whether or not you sell, distribute, release, license, profit from, claim ownership, etc... of something does not matter for copyright law. Copyright prohibits the very act of well, copying. Specifically, if a work is protected by copyright, you can't (among other things)

make adaptations and arrangements of the work

make reproductions in any manner or form

without permission (or a license) from the copyright holder. Just because you do something privately, don't distribute or profit from it, does not make you exempt from this rule.
In some cases though, a fair use exception may apply. In the United States, uses that may be (but not necessarily are) fair are limited to:

criticism, comment, news reporting, teaching (including multiple copies for classroom use), scholarship, or research

Note that in Europe, teaching is usually not considered fair use.
So no, it would not in general be permitted to make a 3D model of a copyrighted work, even if you don't plan to do any of the things you listed with it. An artist would not be allowed to draw the picture of Mickey Mouse as you describe either. However, in the United States, your use could be construed as fair use for educational purposes. However, considering that you could equally as well have used some non-copyrighted work to demonstrate the limits of CAD (there's nothing specific to Mickey Mouse that makes him more suitable than any other model) I would recommend against this. An important argument in fair use is usually that there is no other option but to use the copyrighted work (e.g. in a class discussing pop music you have no option but to use excerpts of copyrighted lyrics).

No, this is what happens when nonlawyers drop in.  IANAL but I've asked my friend lawyers.  For example, you can go ahead and draw all the MIckey Mouses you want to. You just can't sell them or use them for, say public promotion.    Further, there's a big difference between copying a CAD drawing and producing an object from said copy.

@CarlWitthoft Rather than "my lawyer friends said so" - do you you have an actual argument as to why what you say is true? This document claims that photographing a copyrighted painting is infringement, which is consistent with my answer. I did not mean to say that any mouse consisting of 3 circles would constitute infringement, but merely making a painting using an existing, copyrighted work as reference requires permission, regardless of your use.

And I repeat,as your link says, if the artist intends to sell his work.  Not just put it up in his basement man-cave.  Further, your link starts out with " Disclaimer: None of the information within should be construed as binding legal advice." Further, it's a major stretch to suggest that if someone else has posted up a copyright-violating CAD model, that you would in any way be in trouble for making a print from that model.

@CarlWitthoft That is in fact the reality and not by any means a stretch. If you take a copyright-violating CAD model, and print it, that is infringement and you owe damages to the copyright holder. It's your job to make sure what you do doesn't violate anyone's copyright. You can equally as well get in trouble for downloading a movie somebody else uploaded.

@CarlWitthoft That is not what my link says. Making a derivative work requires either permission from the copyright holder or a specific rule (such as fair use) that makes your use okay. "Not selling" something (or otherwise not making a profit) does not automatically guarantee that your use is fair use or otherwise allowed. Moreover, even just making a backup copy for personal use is not necessarily allowed.

The remedy for and criminality of an infringing act may depend on the financial motive, so personal use is less risky. It doesn't mean the copyright owner can't compel you to destroy the article though. Related, trade marks need to be defended to retain the rights.

Further, research and private study may provide a fair-use exemption, but demonstrating features is likely to fall under commercial use (potentially even if the product is zero cost).

in Germany there are specific exemptions for teaching, allowing a specific ammoint of copying of material under a "research and teaching" provision that demands proper citation.

@Tom van der Zanden you are taking everything too literal. By this logic, if you draw Batman on a piece of paper, that is copyright infringement...
Just because the book says it, does not mean it is real. Tell me, if I make a Micky Mouse or Batman, or Iron Man or whatever figure in a CAD software, and print it with a 3D printer and put it on my shelf, who the hell is going to sue me for that?

but it is copyright infringement to draw batman on a piece of paper. maybe nobody knows, but under the law, it simply is.

Can a 3D model of a copyrighted work be rendered legally without
  infringement?

The answer is yes, but only if you have the copyright holder's permission. Copyright covers intellectual property; the intangible. Patent covers material things; things you can build or invent. Trademark covers a logo, stamp, flag or other means by which an entity can be distinguished from others. If an artist draws mickey mouse because the design of that character is also use as the trademark of a corporation that could be a trademark violation. If you produce a physical form of a 3d model with a 3d printer, the process leaves marks on the output that would make is visually dissimilar to the original. However if it functions like the original was intended, then you could have a patent violation (as opposed to copyright).
In short creating a "sculpture" of from a copyrighted work would be infringing, just as taking a photo of a sculpture would be infringing.
http://cjam.info/en/copyright-and-taking-pictures-of-sculptures-2/

Well I think it's a good question, but like what was already stated this question is extremely broad. I am however curious as well. If I take what has already been said literally and apply it to a 3D model of a palm tree, for example. From what y'all are saying, everyone that has ever made a 3D model after the first person in history made one is now in violation of copyright infringement... Not sure how that makes sense but I am going by what was said in the answers. Because if something is copyrighted and you make something that is similar in nature then I take it all foliage made in a 3D modelling program must be in violation of copyright infringement.
Unless y'all are referring to unique cases where someone was to make a unique piece of art and then someone else was to come along and reproduce it?
Tom said above that these would be copyright violations:

make adaptations and arrangements of the work
make reproductions in any manner or form

Well, reproducing a palm tree someone else has made or a blade of grass would then technically be a copyright violation, since someone has claimed a copyright on it and sold it in landscape packages for example.

Copyright is in the expression. a palm tree is generic - scene a fair - and can't be copyrighted at all. But the specific pattern of vertices that made this palm tree model is copyrightable as a piece of art. Adapting this model is infringement. Re-modeling this model is infringement. Making your own that is similar is not.


text:
How many grams will be used in a print
I have an STL file and I would like to know how many grams would this print consume. Is there a software so I can get it or an online link that can say me  that?

You can not tell this by looking at the STL file alone, because how much material will be used depends on the print settings (obviously, printing at 100% infill will consume much more material than 10%).
The best way to check the material usage is to load the model into a slicer and slice it using your preferred settings. Most slicers will report the projected material usage, often in grams but sometimes in meters of filament (but the two figures are easily converted between each other if you know the density and diameter of your material).
Here is an example in the Cura slicer:

Simplify3D (after you click "prepare to print!") also shows you the projected print time and material usage and even the cost of the material (if you have previously entered the material cost per kilogram):

Hi, I installed cura and imported and STL file but I dont have a printer connected to my computer (it's still being shippped), so how do I see the amount of material the will be used (aproximatelly yof course)?

Have you checked to see how accurate are Cura's estimates? I use makerware and I've found their estimates to be fairly wrong. In excess of 15% error. Just wondering if Cura would be any better.

@Samul You don't need a printer connected to your computer. Just load a model and slice it.

@Diesel I don't think the (in)accuracy of the estimates is due to the slicer. It should give a 100% accurate value; any deviation is due to (1) the printer not extruding as much as the slicer tells it to (2) the filament having a different diameter than configured (3) the filament having a different density than configured.

@Tom van der Zanden I opened cura -> OPEN FILE -> selected STL file and it says it will use only 5g! It's certainly wrong. Would you mind checking in your Cura if it is really 5g? The STL file is here -> https://ufile.io/fc80e

@Samul The .STL file only defines the surface geometry of the part. The slicer has many settings that will affect the amount of material used. The infill is usually not solid, but a pattern that is still fairly string but mostly air, and uses FAR less filament and time. There are also settings for the external shell thickness. You can also resize the object in the slicer. If the STL was created in inches, it may be opened by the slicer expecting mm, and cone out tiny. If the object is bigger than your print volume, it might be automatically shrunk to fit.

@Samul That file comes out to around 100g for me.

Thanks man, I have no idea why it came out 5g to me! I used 80% infill. But I thank you so much!

@Tom van der Zanden I hadn't considered the density being off. I'll have to check that out. Thanks

@TomvanderZanden do you know if its possible to determine the weight of filament left to print from a specific layer? Ie assuming there are 200 layers on your model, how would you know how much material was required to print from layer 150 -> 200?

@HansRudel That's a new, separate question. As a side note, in some slicers you can indicate you want to start printing from a given layer - the slicer would probably give you an estimate then.

This is a good answer, but I'd add text to the bottom (in bold, no less) that the amounts and times you see in the slicer are estimates, and actual numbers can and will vary from what the slicer shows.

Slic3r will calculate the weight after you have exported the G-Code.
Normally, you'll only see the "Info" box. But after saving as G-Code, there's a "Sliced Info" which mentions the weight according to the settings you made (filament type and infill).
That's how it looks like:

Some slicing programs will give this information. Here is the first comment at the end of the print, which gives volume and length of material used, from gcode generated by Slic3r:
 ; filament used = 388.6mm (0.9cm3)

According to ToyBuilder Labs, ABS is 1.04 g/cm3, so 0.9 * 1.04 = 0.936, or just under one gram.
In the G-code file produced by the slicer, search for "filament" or "M30" - it's right after the M30. You might need to use the verbose G-code option.

This is a link I found that analyzes your G-code ( filament usage, time, etc.): gCodeViewer
From the description (emphasis is mine):

Analyze GCode

Print time, amount of plastic used, layer height, etc. for whole file and for single layer

Here is a screenshot: