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Horizontal lines on feature/geometry/density change
I've had an Ender 5 Plus for a few weeks now. It's printing great and I've got my tuning pretty good at the moment. I've noticed some horizontal inconsistencies matching feature/geometry changes. It seems to be associated with maybe layer time(?) I only have a picture from two models, but the problem will appear in other places on different models, always matching some change in the layers.
The problem is consistent all around the model and changes position with different prints, so I know it's not a mechanical problem. Say I printed a 2x2 cm tower 20 cm tall, it will not have any of these imperfections because every layer is identical.
I highly suspect the layer time/temperature change, but I don't know how to fix this, I'm a bit stumped. They both were printed at 200 °C and I'm trying a new one at 210 °C (best temperature with the spool I have) and it has the same problem. All three models are from the same spool of PLA.
Also, I use Cura with mostly default settings for the Ender 5+.
Here are the pictures :
I tried to highlight the idea, but every line matches with some change in the model

On the benchy it's harder to see, but the hull line match with the solid floor of the model, and the top ones match with the top window sill starting.

I still struggle with some of it. I've just upgraded to a 32 bit board with TMC2209 and now noticed a potential wobble in my lead screw (not linked with artifact in the post tho). So I'll fix this this week and come back to this problem which I think is due to the infill overlap pulling on outer walls while cooling. Sorry for going MIA

I have exactly the same problem: " try print from outside to inside (outer walls > inner walls > infill).
Then try to reduce "Flow" until you see no over extrusion (or even small gaps in the surface)." Doesn't work (just reduce slightly the problem" If I print SQUARE o RECTANGULAR shapes all is perfect, no over extrusion no nothing, simply perfect, but once the model make geometric changes the lines appear In another forum they said that is CURA related so change slicer, didn't test it yet; any updates or solves..??

This is varying underextrusion due to loss of material to oozing in the interior of the model.
When printing the infill pattern, the nozzle doesn't follow a single continuous extrusion path, but moves from the end of one path to the beginning of the next, and under Cura defaults, does this without retracting the filament. This causes unpredictable amounts to ooze out during travel from one to the next, thereby desynchronizing the planned/intended amount of material extruded so far and the actual amount. This means, when the next outer-wall extrusion starts, there's an unpredictable deficiency between the amount of material at the nozzle to extrude, and the amount the slicer intended to extrude. The result is what you're seeing.
To fix it, you need to eliminate oozing, not just outside the model where it appears as visible stringing, but inside too. Either disable "Combing" entirely in Cura, or set "Max Comb Distance With No Retract" to something very low (0.8 mm or less). Also set "Minimum Extrusion Distance Window" to 0 to ensure Cura doesn't skip retractions for other reasons.
You may also want to play with extrusion length and speed. Too short or too long can be bad; 5-7 mm is the reasonable range for PLA with a bowden. Higher speed generally helps too; the printer should be able to handle 50 mm/s or faster.

I don't even have the slightest form of stringing or oozing on any of my prints actually. I'm not quite sure about this theory

How do you know you don't have it inside them? Have you watched closely during the print?

Yeah I did, everything is surprisingly consistent except for this

Can't the issue be related to some form of hysteresis? Not posted as an answer, just a genuine thought. The printer is decent, but not of super quality (carriages on aluminum extrusion profiles, belts not straight, etc.). These ridges are often seen when the geometry changes, so that a different path is followed by the print head causing it to result in a few tenths of a mm difference with respect to the previous layers?. My custom Pursa i3 printer has this also, but my Hypercube CoreXY does not (nor does my Ultimaker 3E).

These don't even look like tenths of a mm but hundredths, maybe 0.08-0.10 mm at most. Positional hysteresis seems like a possibility but I've fought with this type of issue a lot including where it's caused structural weakness, and it seems to be extrusion related. Maybe hysteresis of the Bowden tube or excess flow where extrusions prior are overhanging and have less backpressure.

This seems a clearly wrong answer. How can oozing affect the WHOLE perimeter, as shown in the photos?

@FarO: Because when the nozzle isn't properly primed after starting the perimeter, you don't just get a gap in extrusion then a normal perimeter. It will flow, just at a lower rate, until reaching an equilibrium where it's primed again.

Still, it happens with every slicer, with/without retract, with/without combing, bowden/direct drive (where oozing and retractions are basically painless), ... Since you are a more advanced user, I really recommend reading the link I posted and giving a quick look to the Discord server/channel I mentioned.

By the way, printers with linear/pressure advance enabled should automatically reduce nozzle pressure before travel move, since during the travel move no filament is being extruded (a retraction is not required to trigger compensation for nozzle pressure). And still the issue of the hull line appears.

@FarO: That only works with direct drive. With bowden, the spring model LA/PA use is insufficient to represent the behavior of the bowden tube and filament over such a long distance, and while it will improve things so that there's less pressure, you will still have significant residual pressure and oozing unless you choose a K factor so high that your corners start to disappear inward.

But it happens as well with direct drive. Moreover, if that were the cause, it would disappear on direct drive after maybe 1 mm of filament or likely less, while that is definitely appearing even on long and complex perimeters.

If this matches the horizontal planes - like "solid floor" than I would advice to check overlap settings. My suspicion is slight overextrusion, which might be the reason of many small horizontal differences. Using 3 mm filament I often suffer of similar inconsistencies, until I find proper flowrate to avoid overextrusion. Adding first to second, the solid plane will push walls more to sides.
Do you print "Infill Before Walls" (Cura setting)?  You may try to disable this checkbox and observe if the result persisted. Also you may enable "Outer Before Inner Walls" - to ensure, that outer wall is printed first with least interference (though some other issues may appear after travel, layer change, etc.).

So try print from outside to inside (outer walls > inner walls > infill).
Then try to reduce "Flow" until you see no overextrusion (or even small gaps in the surface).
Finally revert these settings (infill > inner > outer) and check again.

You can reduce the issue with less overlap, but the issue is due to shrinkage. Some tests were performed, see my answer

The issue with the "hull line" is known. It depends on the fact that the material shrinks after extrusion and faster layers give less time to the previous layer to shrink, so they appear continuous, while slower layers take more time, so the previous layer has more time to shrink and there will be a visible change in the outer dimensions.
So, larger layers are the slower ones. You can increase the temperature a bit, so that it will take more time to cool down to the shrinkage temperatures, you can print faster, you can increase chamber temperature to have more time before shrinkage, or you can cool more the part so that no matter the current layer time, the previous one will always be already shrunk.
In the Polymaker Discord server there is a channel about the "hull line". You can find an invitation to the server and check there.


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Considerations for placing STL on build plate
Being new to 3D printing, I have started printing different files from Thingiverse to better my experience. I have noticed on some YouTube videos that certain items/models/STLs should be oriented a certain way on the build plate.
What things should I take into consideration when placing items on the build plate?
Printer: Ender 3v2 (stock)
Slicer: Cura

Orienting items
Orienting items on the build plate should consider:

overhangs - many hangning fragments will need additional support to be printed (cost of time and material, risk of failure); gravity and colling process will affect loose/hanging plastic in this or that way
layered structure - parts will be stronger in X-Y directions, and weaker in Z direction
adhesion - it is good to have wide foot to touch and stick to the bed, then only thin base growing big upwards, which may easily fail by any accident
space - if the thing is big, it may have to be rotated diagonally to fit the printing surface

So most of it comes from particular shape. Try to look at thing from different sides, spatial awareness helps a lot.
Placing items
Also, placing items on the build plate should consider:

heating system - heated bed surface may be warmer at center; even if the bed is heated evenly, than surface will cool down faster at sides, which may affect adhesion (e.g. ABS will wrap more often)
cooling system - sometimes printer has better cooling from one side (depending on location of fans or construction of cooling ducts), so any overhangs (fragments which have to cool down very quickly) should be properly exposed, otherwise they will wrap
environment (external influences) - they may affect heating / cooling as well; also mutual position of few objects may affect cooling or act as wall for wind
printer construction - e.g. backside of Prusa Air 2 frame is shrinking going up, and anything mounted behing extruder will hit the frame - so high prints should be X-centered/narrow, and rather wide along Y axis
multiple extrusion - if you use dual extruder, then mixed fragments may not be located on edges, because one of nozzles just cannot reach it
surface quality - e.g. I print ABS on Kapton tape; sometimes the tape gets small holes or tearing from hotend accidents or forceful part detachment - then I just avoid damaged areas
other issues - e.g. my Y axis is louder than X, therefore I rather try to use X axis more often (especially when printing late evenings)
view point - easthetics of printing: which objects, which sides you want to observe during printing?
acessability - if you may want to influence area during print, put something inside the part during printing?

So most of it comes from the experiences with particular printer - its technical parameters and observations. Many times it is only a choice - like simple PLA prints sticking well.

source: Stack Exchange

license: Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/

sort: votes


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Resin printing on Voxelab Polaris
I've recently got an Elegoo Mars-like resin printer which is called Voxelab Polaris. So far, I have a lot of success with it, but one piece is proving really tough to print and I'm hoping for advice!
These Settlers Of Catan tiles are natively about 90x97 mm.
It's too big to print flat on my 130x82x155 mm print bed, so I've been trying to print it at a variety of angles including vertically. When printed vertical, it tends to warp along the long axis, and when done at an angle including supports there's not enough landing area to stick it to the print bed.
I've tried printing two together back-to-back, but in Chitubox I can't find a way to add supports between two pieces on the bed (only from each piece to the bed).
Anyone got any insights about how I might print this in resin?

If you want to print flat, you could easily print all parts at 90 %: the bounding box dimensions now are 81.16 x 88 mm - and as a result, you can print some other parts flat next to it but not more than one tile at the same time. Remember to print all cities and roads at 90 % too.

Thanks - I'd thought about scaling it but wanted it to be compatible with the Catan pieces from our exiting copy of the game. I will look again at this, though. Thanks for the reply.

if the answer doesn't answer your problem, you don't need to accept it - scaling is just the option I would take to enforce flat printing.

all_licenses: Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/


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I can't get G29 to run BLTouch on my Ender 3 V2
I installed a BLTouch probe on my Ender 3 V2 and am able to manually generate the probe matrix and store it in the printer memory, but I can't figure out how to get Cura to run the probe for every print. I have included G29 in my start code, but the printer doesn't run the probe. Here is my full start code:
M201 X500.00 Y500.00 Z100.00 E5000.00 ;Setup machine max acceleration
M203 X500.00 Y500.00 Z10.00 E50.00 ;Setup machine max feedrate
M204 P500.00 R1000.00 T500.00 ;Setup Print/Retract/Travel acceleration
M205 X8.00 Y8.00 Z0.40 E5.00 ;Setup Jerk
M220 S100 ;Reset Feedrate
M221 S100 ;Reset Flowrate

G28 ;Home

G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder

G29 ;BLTouch

G1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up
G1 X10.1 Y20 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to start position
G1 X10.1 Y200.0 Z0.28 F1500.0 E15 ;Draw the first line
G1 X10.4 Y200.0 Z0.28 F5000.0 ;Move to side a little
G1 X10.4 Y20 Z0.28 F1500.0 E30 ;Draw the second line
G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder
G1 Z2.0 F3000 ;Move Z Axis up

When I inspect the G-code directly, I can see that G29 is getting transpiled into
M501 ;load bed level data
M420 S1 ;enable bed leveling

is this correct? If not, how do I stop the transpilation?

Dear Matthew, could you please provide some more information on the installation of the BLTouch and the configuration/installation of the firmware.

This sounds like a firmware issue to me. I copied and pasted
G28 ;Home
G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder
G29 ;BLTouch

Into my start code, and it worked fine.
I have an Ender 3 V2 and a BLTouch (BL, not 3D.)
If you haven't updated your firmware, that's definitely why.
This is the start code I am using (in Ultimaker Cura)
; Ender 3 Custom Start G-code
G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder
G28 ; Home all axes
G29 ; Auto bed level
G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed
G1 X0.1 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to start position
G1 X0.1 Y200.0 Z0.3 F1500.0 E15 ; Draw the first line
G1 X0.4 Y200.0 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move to side a little
G1 X0.4 Y20 Z0.3 F1500.0 E30 ; Draw the second line
G92 E0 ; Reset Extruder
G1 Z2.0 F3000 ; Move Z Axis up little to prevent scratching of Heat Bed
G1 X5 Y20 Z0.3 F5000.0 ; Move over to prevent blob squish

How are you manually initiating the bed level? G-code command? (If so, which command/commands) or on the printer itself?
If you haven't already, I suggest you try placing the line G92 E0 ;Reset Extruder before the line G28 ;Home. I'm wondering if it is possible that this is somehow interrupting the process.
Are you on stock firmware? If so, I would try using firmware for the BLTouch, from the manufacturer.
*You can find a guide on how to do a firmware update here is an external link.
You shouldn't have to change anything in the configuration if you download the pre-configured BLTouch firmware.

Hi Void_Frost! Thank you for your efforts to help, they're good and accurate hints. I am curious about the real cause too. Please note that your response is actually questions, suggesting the real answer or troubleshooting path (like executing the G29 command manually from serial terminal). Could you try to reformulate this response to be an actual answer (i.e. try this, do this, etc.)? If you like to ask more questions, better to use comments below main description. Btw. I bet for firmware configuration, could you advice something to start from? Check here about G-code queuing.

Right. Thanks for the advice. I'm new to 3d printing (got my printer last month), stack exchange, and this in general.

@Void_Frost No problem, we all were new once, but this is a Q/A answer site not a forum of threaded messages, questions to clarify the question need to be in comments, once you receive 50 reputation you can comment on questions for more information. Hope to see you around! I've rearranged the answer a little so that it is more of an answer. Considering your relative short experience, you might want to ask some questions. Happy printing!

@0scar I noticed you put a guide on how to install firmware here on 3D stack exchange, and while I appreciate it, I removed it as it does NOT apply to this model of 3D printer. Firmware updates are not in .hex, rather in .bin, and are handled via microSD.

@Void_Frost No prob! Thanks for the edit! You must have the newer controller board. :-)


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Bed heating stops when paused by filament runout sensor
My CR-10 S5 has a feature, that stops the print, when the filament runs out.
However, when the printer pauses, the bed cools down and the print plops if the bed. Is there a way to tell the printer to keep the bed heated, when paused (by the runout detector)?

unless you write custom firmware? No.

Has this to to with the "economic" mode? If so, you have your answer here. I don't know if this reflects recent firmware versions.

@0scar nope, that is part of the Filament runout sensor alarm code, not the eco mode

Does it cool down immediately or is it a separate heater timeout after the pause?

There is no easy way to keep the bed heated during pause
Looking at the sourcecode, I am pretty sure that the current version (10/29/2019) keeps the heated bed at the right temperature.
Features are built into the firmware. You need an Arduino and some wires to write new firmware to the built-in SOC. Adjusting the code should be as simple as commenting a single line.
That is some serious shortcoming of the CR-10 S5! I can't imagine a reason why not to leave the heated bed on.
The command that keeps the heated bed at temperature is in Marlin_main.cpp:5664:
Source code link

which line would that be?

It's in the firmware
Filament runout sensors generally trigger M600. Usually that preserves the bed temperature, but some firmware distributions might have this set up wrong.
How is M600 working?
The firmware dictates what is done in case of filament runout. The standard settings in configuration.h can look like this:
//#define FILAMENT_RUNOUT_SENSOR
#if ENABLED(FILAMENT_RUNOUT_SENSOR)
  #define NUM_RUNOUT_SENSORS   1     // Number of sensors, up to one per extruder. Define a FIL_RUNOUT#_PIN for each.
  #define FIL_RUNOUT_INVERTING false // Set to true to invert the logic of the sensor.
  #define FIL_RUNOUT_PULLUP          // Use internal pullup for filament runout pins.
  //#define FIL_RUNOUT_PULLDOWN      // Use internal pulldown for filament runout pins.

  // Set one or more commands to execute on filament runout.
  // (After 'M412 H' Marlin will ask the host to handle the process.)
  #define FILAMENT_RUNOUT_SCRIPT "M600"

  // After a runout is detected, continue printing this length of filament
  // before executing the runout script. Useful for a sensor at the end of
  // a feed tube. Requires 4 bytes SRAM per sensor, plus 4 bytes overhead.
  //#define FILAMENT_RUNOUT_DISTANCE_MM 25

  #ifdef FILAMENT_RUNOUT_DISTANCE_MM
    // Enable this option to use an encoder disc that toggles the runout pin
    // as the filament moves. (Be sure to set FILAMENT_RUNOUT_DISTANCE_MM
    // large enough to avoid false positives.)
    //#define FILAMENT_MOTION_SENSOR
  #endif
#endif

So, we need to see what M600 does. M600 is configured in some way:

The settings for this command can be found in Configuration_adv.h.

So, you need to reconfigure how M600 behaves... Here's how to properly do it in 1.1.8/1.1.9 and how does it actually work in the first place in 2.0?:
First, make sure the line #define ADVANCED_PAUSE_FEATURE has no leading // in configuration_adv.h.
Make sure you have #define FILAMENT_RUNOUT_SENSOR uncommented with no leading // in configuration.h. Typically, it just calls M600. You can replace the line with any other line of commands, for example have it play music or abort the print, or just dwell for a couple minutes and beep tragically. The factory setup for M600 contains safety setup: "if not attended in time - shut down. This includes shutting down the heated bed."
But where is the actual M600 defined? Oh, that's sneakily hidden in Marlin_main.ccp for 1.1.9... and oddly enough it does not call to turn off the heated bed unless it goes into did nothing cooldown.

This has no reference to the heated bed, so, does the newest firmware version doesn't drop the bed temperature on pause?
(Note M600 is a multi purpose pause and filament change script, it doesn't reference bed temperature) Also, does Marlin 2.0.x has a Marlin_main.cpp?

@0scar which is what stumps me - there shouldn't be a shutdown, unless it is in the distribution OP installed.

I checked the current version (2.0) and there in the M600 command, the manage_heater is called, which in turn keeps the bed temperature. I'm pretty sure op has an older firmware where this is not fixed.


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Why does my Ender 5 Pro bed stop heating 10 °C below the set point?
After a long battle with SKR Mini v2, TFT35 and BLTouch and creating the right firmware. I thought I was through it all and ready to start printing again after finally being able to set the Z offset and auto level the bed. My printer has other thoughts. Now my bed temperature will only heat up to 10 °C below the set point temperature and after a few minutes it starts beeping and says this on the screen "Heating Failed: Bed Printer Halted, Please Reset". As an example, set it to 60 °C, it will get up to 50 °C normally and stop at 50 °C.
Anyone gone through this? I'm sure there is some setting in the firmware that I have missed up. I'm hoping someone can educate me on my mistake.

Searching the error message "Heating Failed: Bed Printer Halted, Please Reset" seems to indicate that the bed heater is timing out from not reaching temperature.

If you measure the voltage applied to the bed heater before the error message, does the voltage stay at Max.; i.e. 12 V for a 12 V bed heater?  Or, does the voltage stay constant?

If you raise the target bed temperature, does is still error out at stop at 50 °C?

Since you only indicate changing firmware, we would assume the bed heater is the same as when previously working.  Is this true?

Is the resistance of the bed heater a few ohms and not megaohms?

I was having the same issue after installing BTT SKR Mini E3 V2 and BLTouch on my Ender 5 Pro.
I did two things and my bed heats normally now, but I changed/did both things and can't say which fixed the issue for me.

I noticed the case fan wasn't coming on. I had it plugged into Fan 1 on the board. In my Marlin firmware, I noticed in Configuration_adv.h the USE_CONTROLLER_FAN was commented out, so I enabled it (removed the '//' in front of #define USE_CONTROLLER_FAN). After I flashed the firmware with this change, the controller box fan did start kicking on as I'd expect.
I also did PID tuning on the bed. The firmware I'd compiled had the PIDTEMPBED enabled as I prefer to tune the bed when I do the hotend too. I hadn't yet tuned the bed when I was getting the 10-degree heating failure. My bed was set to 60 °C and it wouldn't heat above 52 °C without giving the "Heating Failed: Bed Printer Halted, Please Reset". After PID tuning (which I did after the fan firmware change too) the bed heats up to 60 °C and stays there now.


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Printing problem on right half of printer
I am having an issue with prints set on the right side of my printer bed. I have leveled the bed, have a BLTouch and used a bed visualizer just to try and get it manually as level as possible. You can see the problem on the right piece side of this print where the filament was not laid flat and has many "humps" unlike the left piece side of the print that printed smoothly. Any idea what could cause this on an Ender 3 Pro and how to go about fixing it?

If you hold the (cold) bed at the sides and try to wobble it, does it move?

no, there was a very slight wobble when i got it but i tightened up the rollers on the bottom just to the point i did not feel the wobble again

Are you sure it is not adhesion issue - like the spot on the right is just dirty (greasy)? The brim around it seems sticking well, as far as I could see. You could try to ensure the bed is clean or move items to the different Y position on the bed to confirm it.

Your bed level according to the sensor and reality is changing between the time of probing and the time of printing. There is not enough info to determine exactly where the problem is, but the possible causes and solutions are most likely:

Bed or X-carriage is mechanically loose: ensure all axis and parts of the printer are tight, including the hot-end mount

Bed temperature changes have affected the bed level: ensure the bed is at operating temperature during all manual and automated leveling

Sensor is not reading correctly across the entire bed due to the magnetic sensitivity of the bed or hot-end heating elements: either enable the PROBING_HEATERS_OFF compile-time feature in Marlin or disable the bed and hot-end heaters immediately prior to the automated bed leveling procedure using the code:
 M140 S0; set bed temperature target to zero
 M104 S0; set hot-end temperature target to zero

then turn them both back on to your desired temperature immediately afterward probing using the same M104 and M140 command syntax to their respective desired temperatures


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Top layer and walls have gaps even with 120 % flow (Cura)
I'm printing with Geeetech A20 printer, PLA.
I've started printing the same test piece while changing the following parameters:
Temperature from 215 °C to 195 °C (lowering by 5 °C on each print)
Flow multiplier from 100 % to 120 % (increasing 5 % on each print)
Speed on two first prints was 60 mm/s and on two last 40 mm/s
Bed leveling is perfect, the hardware seems to be in tact, the nozzle is clean and still the walls on the outer curve print well all the time, but in the inner circle they seem to be under extruded (even though flow is up to 120 %)
I am planning on going on with these tests until I get the perfect print, but I am hoping somebody can guide me on what to try next.
I've been reading about the issues on so many articles that now my head is a mess and I just need some clear instructions.

Hi, welcome to 3DPrinting.SE! To me this looks like a heat creep issue, it is difficult to see. Does the first few millimeter print fine? Has it always printed well? Are these the first prints? What has changed? New/old PLA, firmware update, etc... Please provide more info by [edit]!

@Afron did you find the answer for your question already? How close was it to my hints below?

You are lowering temperature and increase the flow at the same time - which is contradictory (filament is less runny, but you pump more of it). Though 195 °C seems to be very safe for printing PLA at 40 mm/s. Just doublecheck that when you disable motors, and push filament with hand, it melts quickly and easily goes out. Otherwise you will deal with temperature-related issue.
Outer walls are usually printed slower, and even when underextruded, part of line may appear constant thanks to leaking filament (it has time). Next retraction will cause stop leaking, and the other wall is printed with almost no pressure. Maybe your constant issue with "inner circle" is just a consequence of such moves.
My suggestions:

Did you calibrate the extruder (steps per mm)? - if not yet, do it (it's a basic skill); to quickly check if this could help, try to continue increasing flow by 5% and observe what will happen then, because maybe this is simple underextrusion due to incorrect steps/mm?
Are you sure that extruder motor is not loosing steps? (e.g. too weak motor against the pressure)
Are you sure that filament is not slipping? (e.g. blunt driver's teeth, or too loose idler)
Could you unintentionally enable volumetric extrusion?

Thank you. It was the volumetric extrusion that was enabled and caused the issue!

It's fantastic that you found the root cause. Thank you for sending pictures in original questions, this is of great help. Have a great prints!


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Printer is over extruding for the first few layers
I'm facing a strange issue where my printer is over-extruding only for the first 6-8 layers (layer height of 0.2 mm).
All the layers above that have no such issue, which, as far as I understand, rules out any extrusion settings misconfiguration.
Also, I'd like to note that the hotbed is perfectly leveled, and the first layer is not too thin.
What could be causing this?

My setup:

Printer: Creality CR-10S Pro
Filament: eSun PLA
Hotbed temp: 60 °C
Hotend temp: 210 °C
Infill: 20 %
Layer height: 0.2 mm
Nozzle Size: 0.4 mm
Speed: 60 mm/s

It looks like your first few layers are ok, then you get a few layers with too much material.  It also looks like you may be getting some warping.

@PerryWebb you think so? PLA is not known to be prone to wrapping, and my room's temp is not too low.

It may just be the design, but the end on the bottom right looks turned up at the bottom.  It does look like the design has a rounded bottom.  Is the excess where the rounding stops.

I have had PLA warp.  What I did to prevent it is heat the bed to 75°C for the first layer, so that it sticks well, then change the bed temperature to 65°C afterwards to harden the PLA.

@PerryWebb Interesting. You're right about that corner, it did warp a bit. But there's over extrusion along the edge where it didn't warp. I was able to reduce the over extrusion a bit by slowing down the speed to 50 mm/s, and adjusting the z offset to be slightly higher.

I'm suspicious that overhand might be involved.

@YoavKadosh Have you found a solution? I have the same issue with my Ender 3

It's been a while but if I recall correctly, it was somewhat related to overhang (as @PerryWebb has suggested). The edges were rounded, so the lower layers had a shallow angle. Try to use a chamfer instead.

Depending on your slicer, there might be settings that modify the flow ratio, First layer height or extrusion width for the first few layers. If those are different from the modifiers for the rest of the print you might be able to play around with these variables.


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What’s the best way of leveling the bed?
Recently I’ve been having trouble leveling my bed on my Creality Ender 3 Pro.  It’s not that it’s hard to level or anything, it’s that it won’t stay level for more than a day or two.  I’ve been leveling it the same way as always with a piece of paper and I’ve been sure to disable steppers.  So if anyone knows what I can do about this, please let me know.

I have the same printer, run into the same issue.  Have you tried using a small level?  you can use it to calibrate levelness in the Y-axis (front to back) and X-axis (left to right) along with your paper approach (which helps calibrate the z-axis)

@GlennFerrie you level the bed to the earth, but you need to make it parallel to the print head movements!

you can get stronger springs that go around the screws that hold the buildplate; they help hold it in place better. I hardly ever have to "touchup" my CR10S after that particular upgrade. Oh, and make sure to pre-heat the plate before leveling (which makes it "fun"); hot metal will have a different tension/gap than cold, which could explain why it's inconsistent for you if you adjust it at different temps than you print at.

Generally, there is no best way, there are only the ways that work for you.
I use a feeler gauge, mounted on a detachable holder. I home to 0, lift the Z by 1 mm, and then level the bed to the same number on the screws and corners. Then I home back to Z=0 and perform an extrusion test, and if that is not satisfactory, use a different number for the leveling. The number on the plunger does not generally read 1 mm, as there is an offset between the 0 of the gauge and the printer.
When I don't level from 0 or am in a hurry, I usually only alter leveling by doing about 2-5° turns on all the screws to adjust the 0-height via the nuts, using the visual of the printed line as my aide. This only works because I have the experience how a good first layer should look like.
Another typical method that I stopped using once I had the feeler gauge is the paper, but I found it inconsistent.
Do not do these:

Leveling the bed with a level does not lead to good prints - your print bed needs to be parallel to the movement of the printhead, not to the earth!


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Filament that will not stick to wood glue?
I am looking to 3D print some small molds that will allow wood glue to dry but not stick.
Is there a recommended filament that is known to resist binding to simple wood glue?
Alternately, is there an inexpensive adhesive (like wood glue) I could use instead that will not stick to the 3D printed mold?

Flexible filaments like NinjaFlex, PolyFlex or TrueFlex might be useful.  They probably need a good mold release agent.

You are looking for a filament that does not bond to wood glue, or as weak as possible. You misunderstand how wood glue "bonds" to plastics:
Wood glue is typically PVA. It bonds to wood and paper by seeping into them before curing and hardening. The mesh of the glue entangles fibers of the wood/paper and itself, bonding with not only the exposed surface but also with material up to the depth it penetrates.
When such a glue is applied to a typical print surface, it seeps into the cracks and through print imperfections but does not penetrate the print to the same degree as it does in the open wood fiber setup. It clings to the surface and only bonds - if it does - only to the surface layers. The same effect happens when you cast resin into for example a silicone mold: there is much less chemical bonding, at best at the interface, and quite some interlock.
To prevent such, two things should be made: first, you need to smooth the mold as much as possible and have all the angles right.  It might be easier and faster to coat the hard molds in a smooth lacquer, which not only removes the creep areas but also acts as an interlayer, making release easier.
Then, you should use a mold release agent. Mold release agents come in many shapes: I have seen Talcum Powder being used effectively for both metal as well as cold casts, if the shape of the mold was well made (no undercuts, no unpowdered areas). Easier to apply are usually mold release sprays for many applications - careful, some are PVA based and would be the same as the glue you want to cast. For a concrete casting, I had used plant fat as a decent mold release agent.
What might be an alternative to wood glue depends on what you want to do with the finished product.
As far as materials that actively don't bond go, you could look into POM (Which is a pain to print and expensive - it's a bearing material) or nylon (also a pain to print).

Considering my experience, SOME nylons don't bond to PVA at all. I tried at 70 °C and 110 °C and my nylon print can be pulled out from it manually with almost no resistance.
It's however difficult to know which type of nylon, since I used a trimmer line of unknown composition (except that it should be mainly nylon).


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CR-6 SE glass build plate - no lifting possible
I've been dealing with 3D printing for 1.5 years, but now own a CR-6 SE myself since the beginning of 2021. Most things are already quite clear but for 2 days I have had a problem with the adhesion of the prints.
Nearly all prints I have done so far used the filament shipped with the printer (PLA 1.75) and they came off the building plate after some cooling time by themselves. I used the default printer settings for PLA: 200 °C nozzle temperature, 60 °C printing bed.
Then 2 days ago the prints began to not stick to the bed anymore and I thought this could be because of dust and from touching the bed. So I cleaned the bed with IPA. The microfiber towel was yellowish afterward - so I thought that this must have been printing residues. Since then every print is kind of "welded" to the bed. There is no chance of loosening it without more IPA or way too much force.
I already tried:

cleaning the bed with clean water - unfortunately, didn't work
setting the Z-offset from 0.1 back to 0.2 mm - also no success

Today I also tried a spool of brand new PETG, with the following recommended settings: 240 °C nozzle temperature, 80 °C print bed - but the problem stayed the same.
Am I doing something wrong? Did I destroy the "Carborundum" coating (silicon carbide) of the glass plate?

Hi @nioerd. I am curious about this printer and I was reading some reviews and issue lists. Your history made me wonder - and I found a remark on Cr-6 se adhesion problems with worrying comment: "Take care to not clean bed with any dissolvant or IPA. This will remove the resin (I don't remember the name) that allow to attach the first layer when bed is hot.  to clean the bed on cr6SE only clean it with hot water and dish cleaner (hot water is enough most of the case (see cr6se specific topic)."

Then I probably broke the build plate - then I have no choice but to buy a new one.

Interesting. I have seen several websites and YouTube videos recommending the use of IPA.

Yes, indeed, there are many. But I saw a message in similar tone here: How to clean carborundum glass plate, it may be currently active thread.  @nioerd, if you will buy a replacement, watch dimensions, because I also noticed few people complained about buying "replacement" which has sides of 235mm instead of 245mm (which is  supposed to be the real size).

@octopus8 Thanks for the hint with the size! I nearly ordered 2 pieces of the 235x235 ones. Now I checked again and the correct measurements are 245 x 255mm. From what I can see the only dealer to buy a new one from is from AliExpress? Any suggestions for Germany?

That is not my suggestion - but the warning I got from Looking for a newbuild plate for my CR-6 SE discussion. There is a direct link to glass in 3djake shop. I opened, and there are variants to pick and table of dimensions, matching exactly what you provided. (The glass itself is too few for free shipping, but there is always lot o spare parts to consider. ;) )

It is likely the surface was damaged by the chemical cleaning, based on your description and octopus8's comment. If you are unable to mechanically release the print, there is a chemical method that has worked for me (and at least one other SE user) in the past.
Bring the bed up to about 40 °C and turn off the heat to the bed. Apply with a dropper or swab a 50/50 mixture of denatured alcohol and water. It will seep under the part as well as evaporate. Attempt the mechanical release. If it fails, apply additional mixture and repeat. Continue to do this until the mixture does not evaporate as quickly.
If the part has not released, it may be necessary to repeat the heating and application.
If you wish to return to "normal" circumstances, a bed replacement is indicated.

Thanks for the tip, I will keep that in memory. One argument for buying this printer was the glass plate for easy removal - so always using your trick would not be my preferred option.
Is there a way to renew the coating?

actually, the method is physics based - cappilary effect.

one P, two Ls for capillary (grin)

I have had similar issues, and I have learned three tricks:

Some slicers (i.e. Cura) let you specify the height of your first layer, and I have found that slowly incrementing up from 0.16 mm by 0.2 mm to find the sweet spot of adhesion without warping. Every brand/type is different. But, usually, for me, fall between 0.18-0.22 mm.

Blue painters tape. If you don't need the glass flat finish of printing directly to glass, I always use blue tape. It makes for great adhesion, and also easy removal of super stuck prints, and you can just peel it off the build plate. With blue tape, I tend to add 2-3 °C to the bed temp.

Glue sticks (instead of hairspray). But, Elmer's glue sticks that go on purple and dry clear. When you use these, if a print is stuck, you just need to spritz some water around the print. The print and the glue will wick the water under the print, and reconstitute the glue. Once the glue is tacky again, the print will pop right off. The only downside is a slight texture to the print and not glossy glass flat.

The reason I like the colored glue, as it reconstitutes it activates the cobalt chloride and turns purple again. This is great for knowing when it is good to start printing again. And also tends to become less of a sticky mess than hairspray.

Actually the CR-6SE's build-plate side with the logo is textured. The other side is untextured - so far I didn't try to print on it - but I can imagine that it should work as well.

Am I doing something wrong? Did I destroy the "Carborundum" coating (silicon carbide) of the glass plate?

I doubt it. Silicon carbide is tough stuff: it's a 9.5 on the Mohs hardness scale, just half a notch below diamond. They make router bits and end mills and the teeth of table saw blades out of it, and people clean all of those with much stronger solvents than isopropyl alcohol. I don't know what other ingredients Creality uses in their carborundum coating or whether they might be susceptible to solvents, but I'd be surprised if the alcohol you used did any real damage.

So I cleaned the bed with IPA. The microfiber towel was yellowish afterward - so I thought that this must have been printing residues. Since then every print is kind of "welded" to the bed.

I had a similar experience, except that I cleaned with acetone instead of alcohol. My impression, too, is that the yellow stuff is some sort of residue left by PLA. If you print the same object several times in the same spot on the bed, you can begin to see a slightly shiny footprint of the object on the bed. You'll eventually notice a loss of adhesion in that spot, and the bed will feel a bit slick there. A small amount of acetone on a paper towel removes the footprint entirely, but you end up with a yellow spot on the towel that doesn't appear if you use the same procedure in a spot where there's been no printing.
I've also had object stick so strongly to the bed that they seem like they won't ever come off, and I think it's just a sign that a clean carborundum bed does its job very well. The best way to get them off, at least for me, is to apply a liberal dose of patience. I usually want to remove the part right away, but I find that if I let the bed cool down even to 50 °C, it's much easier to pop the part off.
Update: With the carborundum bed, adhesion is very sensitive to the height of the nozzle above the bed. If you have the bed set a bit too close to the nozzle, the PLA seems to really smoosh into the bed and grab on making the print hard to remove. If the bed is set lower, the PLA lines sit on top and don't smoosh in at all, and you don't get enough adhesion. There's a sweet spot in between the two, where the print sticks well enough that it takes a little effort to remove, but pops off with some coaxing. For me, using a sheet of printer paper as a gauge, it's about where I can feel the vibrations of the fan through the paper, but just barely, and the paper still slides easily between nozzle and bed. Your results may be different depending on the paper you use. Another way to tell you're on the right track is that the individual lines in the skirt should fuse together, but you want to be close to the point where they don't.

That's very interesting - I really have to check this. Since my first post, I only tried again with hairspray and it worked very well. Without the hairspray, the interesting point is that I waited for several hours and the print didn't separate more easily.

@nioerd Where most people use hair spray to increase adhesion, it sounds like you're using it as a release agent! Interesting. I'll update the answer with a bit more about adhesion with this bed.

@nioerd You can pop it in the fridge for half an hour (with hairspray) for a clean release, IME.

Sounds like the bed came with a coating on it.  If you can't find out what the coating is, but believe you already removed it, you could try glue sticks or hair spray.  You can also find glue sticks specified for 3D printing.  Elmer's glue sticks work.  I'm yet to try glue sticks specified for a 3D printer.  You can Search on 3D Printing for answers where people used adhesive sprays.  The link in octopus8's comment mentions a resin coating.  There are resin coatings being sold for a bed adhesive.

Thanks for your comment - I will have a look on the glue sticks. Hairspray was already planned for next week. I will also search for these special adhesive sprays. I also read about blue tape - the only problem is, that it is only rated to 80 degrees.

OP comment from question: "I cleaned the plate ones again with IPA and then used hairspray as recommended by @Perry Webb - works again as expected".


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Ender 3 - X Axis Cannot Reach True Home
After a year of printing smaller models, I finally went to print something that would take up most of the build plate from left to right and realized that my nozzle cannot reach "true" X home.
As seen in this picture:

the X-axis endstop does not allow a true X0, thus losing me precious mm of print space! I over-exaggerate, but truly is there any way to shift the X-axis more to the left or the Y axis/build plate more to the right to gain full bed usage?
Additional photo showing that the actual hotend plate is hitting the endstop:

Is this an Ender 3 problem in general that I have missed in my internet searches on this or is it just a manufacturing lottery that I unfortunately lost?

"True" home is where the endtops are.

The rated build space for the Ender 3 takes into account the few mm of inaccessible bed width at the Xmin side, along with a similar strip at the Xmax where the hotend carriage runs into the bracket that holds the wheels for that side's Z frame.  If your slicer has an Ender 3 profile, the space it allows you to use will print on the Ender 3 (unless you have bull clips holding a glass build surface in place; then they'll interfere, but mainly on the Ymin and Ymax edges).
Don't forget, even though your actual bed is 235 mm square, the usable build volume is rated as only 200 mm square (by 225 mm high).

You do have hit the true home. You will have to physically move the endstop to alter that position. Your problem is, that the endstop-home is on the build area - and that is printer dependant. My Ender 3 has about 4 mm diagonal distance from the bed in its physical home, for which I accounted via a firmware swap, including a "virtual" firmware home.


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How to install E3D Volcano to CR-10 mini?
I have E3D Volcano and want to upgrade my CR-10 mini.
Found instructions how to change E3D Hotend for CR-10, but can't find any with CR-10 mini. Could I use same instruction that was made for CR-10?
Or better upgrade my Ender V2 with that E3D Volcano Hotend?

One question per question please. The latter question is opinion based though.

Maybe someone will answer that can use CR-10 instruction for CR-10 mini or someone will say that better is to upgrade Ender V2 if this option is available for me.

The word "better" is just very subjective. If you ask if it would be more straightforward (easier, simpler) it will be less about opinions. And still this is separate question :)

Also, the volcano is an all-metal hotend. That is not always an "upgrade" for all machines, it is a different tradeoff: lined hotends are easier to use for lower temperatures, all-metal hotends reach higher temperatures at the cost of ease of use.

Bought E3D Volcano, so I can use it for Nylon Carbon printing. OEM hotend doesn’t allow that high temperature which is needed to melt Nylon Carbon


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BLTouch does not compensate for differences in bed level
Printer: Ender 3
Bed: Creality Glass
ABL: BLTouch
Everything else: Stock
Few weeks ago I had a meltdown during a failed ABS print. My hotend was completely wrapped in plastic and trying to remove said plastic I snagged the termistor. Anyway I had to replace the nozzle, hotend and thermistor. Everything on here. I went ahead and measured the Nozzle BLTouch needle offsets and re-flashed my Ender 3 with TH3D Firmware and configured BLTouch. After which I adjusted the Z offset again.
All good here. BLTouch appears to work, well at least it appears so.
I started printing and I see that my bed always hangs lower on the right side and BLTouch does not compensate for this difference.

Manual leveling (with a heated bed, also tried without)

Auto home
Move Z axis from 5 to 0
Move the head to each corner of the bed
Adjust the corner hight using the paper method (repeat 2x for each corner)
Auto home
Move Z axis from 5 to 0
Go to Z offset, and move it until it tugs on the paper.
Save and Auto home

But this did not solve the issue. When I move the head to Z0 (with the offset) in the centre it's perfect. Moving it to left gets close to the board, right goes way away from the board.
Belts & screws
Went and tightened all the belts and all the screws.
X Axis alignment
I set the Z axis to the max 250. And measure the distance from top of the X axis to top of the frame. There is no difference in the left, right or centre of x axis to the top of the printer. Same for distance from bottom part of the frame.
I cleaned the belts and the wheels with a soft brush. Not sure what else to do. I'm giving up on Creality/Ender :(

The issue was BLTouch i'm not sure what use is this thing if it cannot compensate for differences in bed or frame.
I'm not sure why but the probing seems to be bad. I tried everything clean TH3D install and config, pitch perfect alignment of everything frame, bed, mounts everything. Perfectly calibrated Z offset at the centre of bed. I triple checked the belts. Checked if X axis was off or if any screw was lose, checked wheels to make sure everything was snugg.
Anyhow in the end the issue was with bad BLTouch probing not sure why. I gave up and went and disconneced BLTouch did manual bed leveling with the paper method. Press print and I got a perfect print. Like literally perfect. Even extrusion everywhere.
BLTouch seems to have probed the distance at the centre of bed, I set the offset for it. Than when it went and probed other corners before the print it seems to have read the values wrong.


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Ender 3 Pro distance between nozzle and bed too large
Even when trying to level the bed, the max I can get the bed to the nozzle is pretty large.  I cannot level any higher (please see pic).

Your springs are WAY too much compressed. Turn them loose into the "UP" direction till you are almost at the bed and then level your bed.


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3D printer destroys part by lowering nozzle
I have a Lulzbot TAZ 4 and am using Lulzbot Cura for slicing, printing with HIPS.
Yesterday, I tried a print, only for this to happen:

It appears that the printer got most of the way through printing the part, and then for no apparent reason lowered the nozzle into the part (causing it to detach from the bed), raised the nozzle back up, and then to continue trying to print like nothing happened.
I thought maybe the G-code file got corrupted when transferring to the SD card (a single bit-flip could cause exactly this problem). So I generated the G-code again with exactly the same settings, and the same thing happened again but in a slightly different place and a few layers further up the model:

I have previously printed exactly the same model, only mirrored, with the same settings, and did not have this problem. I've never seen anything like this. Does anyone know what is going on?

Did you just re-generate the G-Code? Or you have inspected the the G-Code? I suggest to use Cura's PREVIEW and use right and bottom sroll bars to track the head movements. Do you use any plugins for Cura? What about the hardware? If your Z axes go fluently up and down? This printer builds up to 250mm, and model is much lower I guess ... but is it possible that this could be mechanical accident like the top of a carriage hitting into something?

Considering the brown goo, this could have been caused by a blob of filament stuck on the outside of the nozzle and tore of the rest. What makes you say the nozzle dug lower into the part? Have you observed this?

The G-code seems to be fine. I've printed a model with the same height before, so I don't think it is a problem with the hardware. I didn't think that a blob of plastic could be hot enough to tear through already cooled layers like this, but looking at the print again it seems possible. I realized that my cooling fan was stuck and probably wasn't running on either of these prints, so maybe the nozzle overheated or something.

Too less cooling on small layers doesn't allow the material to set properly, in combination with a blob and curling of the layers you would see this. Hence my question if you saw the nozzle go down yourself, so I'm not referring to the G-code.

This is my bet, based on cooling fan failure (I assume it was nozzle fan, not a heatsink fan), though honestly my practical experience with HIPS is zero. Without this fan heated material printed at high angles will definitely curl up, and even flat may be unstable. I suppose it happend, observing layer inconsistency on middle finger close to the nail.
Then, material could curl a bit and build up. Collisions with hotend could result in blob of plastic here or there, and then something bad happened (see @Jack State comment).
I also suppose that the whole print was detached from bed and rotated, because we see surprising shape across the middle finger, and unfinished index finger. Filament was extruded in random locations, causing more blobs, more curling and more mess. There are some gaps which look exactly like hotend run directly into them. I suppose that object rotated both horizontally and vertically. It could be even dragged by hotend at the end (e.g. filament was extruded inside the index finger).

Seems reasonable. I hadn't though about it rotating up as it moved. I fixed the fan and it seems to be working now.


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Labists ET4 printer nozzle hits bed after automatic levelling
I use Slic3r to create G-codes for my Labists ET4 printer. Usually, no problem.
Now, as soon as I tried to start a print, the nozzle head went down as usual, but this time it went a bit lower than 0 and the machine made angry noises for less than a second.
It went back up again and heated the bed and the nozzle, only to go back down too strongly with angry noises again. Even left a little pokey hole on the bed.
I got scared and turned the machine's switch off and manually raised the Z axis with ease.
Never had this problem before and now I'm afraid to turn on my machine.
I've had the following setup for G-codes prior to today's incident and it had worked just fine:
G28 ; Home extruder
G1 Z15 F[travel_speed]
M106 S[max_fan_speed]; Turn on fan
G90 ; Absolute positioning
M82 ; Extruder in absolute mode
; Activate all used extruder
M104 T0 S[first_layer_temperature]
M190 S[bed_temperature]
G92 E0 ; Reset extruder position
; Wait for all used extruders to reach temperature
M109 T0 S[first_layer_temperature]

After this, I did try the auto levelling, however it still tried to plow into the bed, albeit not as angrily.
Here's other things to potentially consider:

I haven't used the machine 10 days.
It's been chilly in the room where the machine is.

So here's my questions:

"What could cause a 3D printer to have an incorrect impression of Z-axis=0 even in absolute position mode?"
"What can I do to fix it?"

Hi @0scar! I added info. Unfortunately the auto levelling still had the nozzle attempt to burrow into the bed. Not sure what my next step should be :/

That is quite strange, the sensor should have established the level seen from the top.

I guess your comment made me try something! I just passed a clean fabric around the nozzle and found a bit of soot (!?) had settled and may have blinded the machine. Thank you!

So it probably is a build-up of molten carbonized filament, yes, that makes that the "nozzle + gunk" hits the bed after leveling. Heat up the hotend and remove all the additional material on the nozzle.

This is not an Anet ET4 then! I've updated the question for you!

Dirt. It was dirt. Most likely.

Apparently the machine establishes bed level with a sensor, and I might be wrong, but I think the ET4 monitors capacitance as a means to notice how far the nozzle is from the bed.
After all else failed I looked at the nozzle closely and noticed that the whole thing looked fuzzy. Looks like soot (from where though!?) had settled on the machine's sensitive components and de facto blind-folded its sensor.
A wipe and a levelling later, all was back to normal. Yay!

metal, carbon, or filament dust deposits can drastically alter the capacity

The strange thing is is that the Anet ET4 uses an external sensor based on nozzle pressure that you connect during the levelling phase to the loose connector hanging next to the hotend. It doesn't use a inductive or capacitive sensor, it uses this sensor.

@0scar Is it possible that there are two different ET4? Cause mine is from Labists and I don't recognize this probe?

I've changed the question to the correct printer. There are 2 ET4 printers! Yours does use an inductive sensor!


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Ender 3 Pro & BLTouch clone issue
I just installed a BLTouch clone on my Ender 3 Pro with a standard 1.1.4 board. The sensor seems to work but is giving me problems.
I used the Teaching Tech tutorial on YouTube to install it, but after I had issues with the Marlin 1.1.9 bug fix. After that and some more reading about the issues and the clone sensors, I removed the capacitor next to the Z-stop but was still having issues (it just wouldn’t stop at the bed). Thus I went back to the original Ender 3 Pro firmware, released by Creality on January 20th.
As said, the sensor now is working, but when auto homing it doesn’t move an inch on the Z-axis. Instead, as soon as it should home on Z, it directly thinks it has hit home. See this clip I made:

I’m hoping any of you have a clue what I’m doing wrong, or how to fix this.

Am I correct to see a lot of blue light emitted by the sensor? That usually indicates that there is something wrong with the cable. Note, having owned about 5 clone sensors, it was a blessing to use the actual product, the clones are underperforming in my experience.

Thank you for your reply! I thought I had wired it correctly, but I will recheck the wires and report back!


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Is is true that it is quicker if I print one object at a time multiple times, as opposed to printing a batch of them?
I need to print so many of this model:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4160638

When I print just one of them, the printer head has a focus on one area and prints it with the least amount of head movement.
When I print a batch of them, the printer head needs to keep moving to the area of each object. It seems that increased print time is not a linear multiple of the number of objects. It is more than that.
I wanted to ask everyone's experience to see if I am missing anything here. Is it true that it is quicker if I print one object at a time multiple times, as opposed to printing a batch of them?

This is asked before; does that answer your question?

Note that printing multiple objects on the build plate increases the chance for the nozzle to catch a print, this can destroy a whole plate on objects, while a single print would only loose that single print. If your printer is reliable this may be less of a concern. Also small prints require relative large amount of preparation and may not print over night, so you loose time to print.

@0scar, yes, that nailed it. I was looking for the "sequential printing feature"


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Ideas to tune for 300 % speed
I am using PLA and I am looking for ideas on using the Tune option to tune my Prusa i3 MK3 to increase the speed to 300 %.
The 300 % speed works perfectly fine for some of the models.
However, for some of the flat surfaces, the printer cannot handle the speed. The issues are pointed in the image below:

It seems that printer is struggling to supply enough filament.
Can I solve the issue by using the Tune menu by changing settings like temperature or flow?
Answer:
While @dandavis is informative, but this is how I did it:

increasing z offset so nuzzle has enough space to dispense.
Increase temperature +10

Please note that this degrades the print quality, but I am just printing a few organizer boxes. Quality is not essential and not something I expect from a 300% speed.

extruder clicking means you're getting backed up, grinding.

Make the hotend hotter so you can melt filament 3X faster than expected; most materials have quite a range; aim high.
Slow down the cooling fan; a lot of them can cool the hotend.
You have a silicone boot on the nozzle? that will help some.
Use a larger diameter nozzle to reduce backpressure and allow thicker layers.
Try cranking the feed rate

Lastly, consider that you simply might not get acceptable results pushing speed THAT much.

I like this list, but can you explain "cranking the feed rate" hint? And I agree, if frame mechanics is OK with the speed, then it's all about temperature and pressure to maintain necessary plastic flow. For "hotter hotend" there are limits: too high temperature may damage components (like PTFE), there are also security consderations (like off-gassing). I would probably start with bigger nozzle to reduce pressure issues (I had many lost steps by extruder's motor).

feedrate is how many mm/sec of filament is fed into the hotend. On repetier this is a setting you can adjust while printing, not sure about other software, but they probably have something similar.

Thank you! I understand that you mean experimenting in runtime. Without more fluent extrusion, just increasing feedrate wouldn't be helpful of course, but reducing it seems to be the solution for middle part of print. I just added alternative answer which is focused exactly on this point, but from G-Code perspective.  Side note: there may be also firmware limits set (e.g. for max E velocity) which in some point will make increasing the speed percantage just ineffective at some point.

Changing "Flow" will affect whole print. So even if it helped for the middle part (I doubt), the next it would ruin the print on sides by overextrusion. However: if sides are printed ok, then why the middle couldn't? Because walls are printed slower? Indeed, the under-extrusion may quickly rise along with speed because of plastic deformation between extruder gears under pressure and slight slipping, which actually increases with speed. The video "How fast can your hotend print?" presents experiment on this phenomena and its outcomes.
Then we go into master question: 300% of what? Turning the speed knob during print will override all considerations that slicer took into account during calculations - and defintely override Max volumetric speed, which is key factor to limit pressure in the nozzle (vide clicking noise).
The real limit seems to be this middle part of print, and outer part is just cosmetics (probably calculated to print slower because of quality). So if you ensure, that printing these middle surfaces is planned (in G-Code) with similar speed as walls, then (at least in theory) you may be able to increase overall speed, playing e.g. only with temperature. (I actually mean the speed of extrusion, so this may not be simple as just setting equal speed for perimeters and infill, but this does not change the conclusion below.)
So I say all it starts in the slicer software: increase speed there and re-caclulate. This will ensure to not exceed key limitations. Then you may manipulate maximal values in slicer for further experimentation.

Provided you find a way to increase the extruder limits, as replied by @dandavis , you will still get underextrusion in the infill if the infill is printed faster than walls.
You need to enable some option in the slicer to label each part of the print, so that you get a comment in the gcode to mark walls, infill, and so on.
Then you need to process the generated gcode, so that when you find the label "infill" you replace it with a flow multiplier to increase flow. How much has to be tuned by try and fail.
You also need to replace every remaining label (walls, ...) with a 100% flowrate setting to bring back the setting to the standard value, obviously.


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Squential Printing: Some objects are too tall and cannot be printed without extruder collisions
The following setup seems printable.
Why do I get this error?

Some objects are too tall and cannot be printed without extruder
collisions.

The error message explains that you cannot print your objects sequentially as they are too tall for the gantry to go back to the bed level after the first object.
In other words, your clearance between bed and gantry is too small.


text:
Z axis no longer working on a working printer
I was printing an object and it started to drag so I stopped it.
Went to move the Z-axis up so I could clear the bed and Z-axis would not budge.
I switched the printer off and manually turned the motors to get the Z up.
Cleared the bed, switched on and homed the printer. When it came to home the Z, BLTouch deployed and then nothing. Motors will not turn.
Things I tried:

Recompiled the firmware (Marlin 2.0.x)
Different motors - Motors were free from the printer, just resting on a desk so I know it's not binding or anything.
Swapped stepper driver with a known working one.

Info about the printer:

CR10s
SKR1.4 Turbo board
TMC2208 Steppers
BLTouch
Octopi to control the printer.

Output of M122 for the Z:
Recv:       Z
Recv: Address
Recv: Enabled       false
Recv: Set current   1000
Recv: RMS current   994
Recv: MAX current   1402
Recv: Run current   17/31
Recv: Hold current  8/31
Recv: CS actual 8/31
Recv: PWM scale
Recv: vsense        0=.325
Recv: stealthChop   true
Recv: msteps        16
Recv: tstep     max
Recv: PWM thresh.   0
Recv: [mm/s]        -
Recv: OT prewarn    false
Recv: triggered
Recv:  OTP      false
Recv: pwm scale sum 10
Recv: pwm scale auto    0
Recv: pwm offset auto   36
Recv: pwm grad auto 14
Recv: off time  4
Recv: blank time    24
Recv: hysteresis
Recv:  -end     2
Recv:  -start       1
Recv: Stallguard thrs
Recv: uStep count   40
Recv: DRVSTATUS Z
Recv: sg_result
Recv: stst
Recv: olb
Recv: ola
Recv: s2gb
Recv: s2ga
Recv: otpw
Recv: to
Recv: 157C
Recv: 150C
Recv: 143C
Recv: 120C
Recv: s2vsa
Recv: s2vsb
Recv: Driver registers:
Recv:       Z   0xC0:08:00:00
Recv:
Recv:
Recv: Testing Z connection... OK

First I suspected this could be faulty Z motor cable (broken wire, etc.). The G-Code M122 is for communication with the driver board. There can be almost no feedback from motor itself (there are just 2 pairs of coil wires) ...almost, because we can see Testing Z connection... OK. But anyway, to be on safe side, did you doublecheck with multimeter that Z motor cable is properly conducting? (There is only one Z motor in this printer, isn't it?)

Sincere apologies for your question being temporarily closed - it was an admin error. Please add the "Update" as an Answer, even though it wasn't quite resolved, because putting the solution inside the question breaks the Q&A mechanism of the site. Many thanks.

For "suddenly have this issue" the only explanation I have is that of Z steps/mm set to 0, and could happen unintentionally (from LCD or with M92). (Unless someone recompiled firmware with changed settings, then it's suddenly no more.) So @Gaz83, could I propose to accept my answer and have this question closed already?

It could be caused by software or configuration issue.
Possibility 1: just worked after re-installation of Marlin
You could have Z steps/mm set to 0 in EEPROM, and did not notice that fact.
It is possible to fix this unconsciously with Marlin software reinstallation, following the upgrade procedure which included reset of EEPROM settings - like "Step 4: Finishing touches" described in community wiki's guide for Updating Marlin Firmware. This is described in more details in another post No stepper motor movement on Ender 3 Pro.
Possibility 2: Marlin configuration is not correct
When you recompiled Marlin, did you use already proven configuration for Marlin? When saying "Motors will not turn" you mean only Z? Are your other motors are still functional now after Marlin was deployed?
Among other Marlin settings, you may want to check that this line is disabled in Configuration_adv.h:
  /**
   * Software enable
   *
   * Use for drivers that do not use a dedicated enable pin, but rather handle the same
   * function through a communication line such as SPI or UART.
   */
  //#define SOFTWARE_DRIVER_ENABLE

(I took this advice from No Motor Power With TMC2209 on RepRap forum.)

Yes I used the copy I already had, just recompiled. Yes X and Y worked fine

Thank you for the feedback. And it is good to hear that you have resolved your issue. If you would like to find a root cause - then if reinstallation od software helped after you "deleted your Marlin" and "a fresh downloaded copy" worked better, then maybe there was a difference in (1) configuration or (2) the code (at least version of Marlin). If there are no justifiable differences, I have a very good theory - so I will improve my answer.

The only problem with possibility 1 was that the printer was running. It had homed and started printing. I then Paused using octopi (pause button, not in terminal) and then used the controls to try and move Z up and that's when it stops. So there was no M92, or any other commands, used. I appreciate the support.

Compilation errors happen.

Issue seems to be resolved. I deleted my Marlin copy, downloaded a fresh copy and I started again.
What worries me is how a working copy and a working printer can suddenly have this issue. Feel like this issue could come back as I never found the root cause.


text:
Thermistor reading 190 °C constantly
So to set the backdrop of this post, I was cleaning the hotend of a printer (Powerspec i3 Mini v2, which is a Wanhao i3 Mini rebadged and heated bed added) I picked up for cheap. There was some stubborn residue so I decided to warm the end. However, while it was still plugged in and warming I saw a spark while using the brass brush on the nozzle. Not sure where it actually sparked (thermistor or heater cartridge wires) but now the board constantly reads 193 °C for the hotend whether or not it is hot (or even plugged in for that matter.)
Looking around this seems to indicate either a bad thermistor or a messed up mainboard.  The thermistor will read ~120k resistance at room temp and fluctuate based on temp changes (ice will cause it to go down, heat will cause it to rise), so can I take that to mean the thermistor is most likely still okay?
Doing some probing on the board, it seems the resistor that makes up the voltage divider on the thermistor circuit is out of spec (when probing it with a multimeter it reads only 470 ohms instead of 4.7k). Is this reading while in-circuit valid? Could this have been caused by a short in the thermistor? Can I build a small adapter to splice in a new 4.7k resistor? or will this just throw everything off more? If I were to build a new version of Marlin could I adjust something in there to get the temps back to something recognizable?
I figure since I got the printer for 40\$ I may as well use it as a learning experience.
Also, if anyone has the original firmware from this printer I would appreciate a copy.

Assuming the value of the 4.7k resistor is OK, it is in parallel with 522 ohms.  The question is what does a good board measure in that location? Does the measurement change if you switch the leads?  A difference indicates current through semiconductor junctions.  That will also vary depending on the current the meter uses to measure resistance.

The heater is more likely to spark since it draws more current.

You can measure the heater voltage using a battery powered (floating) meter with the board powered up since it has significant current.  The current on the thermistor is probably to low to get an accurate voltage with the board powered.  Probably you would notice the sensed temperature change when you attempted to measure the thermistor voltage.

You could get a spark between a heater lead and thermistor lead.  On some printer models this will damage an IC on the circuit board.

Indeed, that last tought is reflected in my answer, and it would be the pessimistic case. I look forward for feedback from @Samlii to exclude that.  In case this board was damaged, I would probably go for some newer and more advanced board instead, but this means an extra investment in external LCD and stepper drivers. Fingers crossed.

@Samlii did you manage to resolve your question? Was my answer of some help? I suggested doing some tests to narrow down the root cause. Do you already know the answer (you can consider to accept the existing) - or have some additional data?

190 °C constant is the test-temperature table.

Yes, in newest Marlin (v2.0) there are configurable thermistor parameters. You need to set custom thermistor:
#define TEMP_SENSOR_0 1000

for your only extruder (suffix _0) in Configuration.h, and in Configuration_adv.h modify related section:
//
// Custom Thermistor 1000 parameters
//
#if TEMP_SENSOR_0 == 1000
  #define HOTEND0_PULLUP_RESISTOR_OHMS 4700    // Pullup resistor
  #define HOTEND0_RESISTANCE_25C_OHMS  100000  // Resistance at 25C
  #define HOTEND0_BETA                 3950    // Beta value
#endif

But in Marlin 1.x I couldn't find this section, so change would need to be done somewhere in thermistor definition source files. I mention this older Marlin following the discussion on Wanhao Duplicator i3 Mini & Rebrands Support, which refers to some Wanhao source code, but I cannot judge about value of it.
For resistors in the circuit I have similar observations: sometimes they do not give exact readings using multimeter, especially next to capacitor. Isn't heatbed temp probe's circuit the same? - can you compare? But instead...
I would suggest doing following things:

open circuit test: disconnect the thermistor and check readings (I could then see -19 °C)
closed circuit test: connect the heatbed's thermistor instead (in place of hotend's) and check if these readings are reliable (I would try to heat the bed for few seconds to check if changes are noticed, but not too long because it will be uncontrolled process)
thermistor test: connecting the hotend's thermistor as heatbed's probe and check on-screen readings for heated bed; are they again 193 °C? do they react to changes? (powering hotend for few secs or warming in fingers?)
you may consider to setup USB connection with serial terminal to directly read measurements using G-Code, just to exclude errors in post-processing of the temperature readings before putting it to screen (I know, it's a bit paranoic)

The worse thing I can imagine is that you could short wires of hotend heating circuit with the temperature probe circuit, which should be galvanically isolated. Then it could damage readings of the mainboard for this probe when received 12V/24V. I found that the mainboard is most probably all-in-one i3mini 0ne+ motherboard, some revision still available in Wanhao store for another $40. I googled for few photos, there are problably few versions of this board. If you are lucky and skilled then you may find some other pin (connected to ATMega) to reuse. Otherwise you would need to replace steering electronics with new board, which could be of great benefit for future improvements: more ports for extra fans, probes, more memory, better stepper drivers, etc.

Note: a capacitor will draw more current when it is charging (lower resistance measurement) then stabilize to its leakage current when reaching the voltage of the meter measuring resistance.  Thus, if the capacitor isn't charged, the resistance will increase until it stabilizes, or if charged, resistance will be irregular until stabilized.  However the 4.7k resistor should discharge capacitors if given enough time.

Note: We are assuming you know not to measure resistance with power on the board.


text:
Printing 3D letters in any font?
I am looking at printing a fair amount of text, ideally using some custom fonts. I quite like Stay Classy but will likely have to consider change if it causes issues.
I am a little stuck on where to start with using these in some tools. I have tried creating an SVG using the font and importing to Tinkercad however that always fails. I only want to print the text, nothing else.
How do I properly convert my font into .svg and import that so I can make my bodies? While I have tried Tinkercad I am open to alternative tools if this can be achieved more easily.

We don't deal in recommending software at all, but "how do you do this" is totally OK.

@Trish thank you for the pointer and also the friendly edit to correct this :)

This very easily done in F360 or OpenSCAD, which now doesn't fit the question.
Tinkercad is a horrible choice for this question, so asking for the proper tool would be very viable.

@towe thanks. I have updated the question to hopefully make it easier to answer unrelated to Tinkercad

I think @Trish answered your question more specifically, but an alternate route (that I think its simpler assuming you don't mind the learning curve) is using Blender.
Rather than creating an svg in a different software and having to go from something like photoshop to inkscape to tinkercad to your printer software...  Blender could do most of that in one step, and its free.
In Blender, add text:

Hit tab to go into "Edit" mode and in edit mode you can simply backspace and type whatever you want.

In the "Font" menu, you can choose from any font on your computer.

And you can make it "3D" by extruding it:

When it looks good and you're ready to print it, make sure to convert it to a mesh, then export as .stl for your printing software. (Cura/Slic3r/etc.)

Your answer might not directly answer how my question is now phrased but I really like the simplicity in using fewer tools. Thank you for the step by step guide too! It was very easy to follow

Fonts are not saved in a format that is .svg compatible. However, text that is written in a font and saved as a black-and-white picture can be turned into a .svg by software. This .svg can be imported by Tinkercad then.
Step 1: Text Picture
Use any software to create a .png or .jpg or something similar. Among the multitude of programs that can do this are GIMP and Adobe Photoshop. Even Paint can do this, or any word processor and then screen capture. If you know your Inkscape, you can skip this.
Step 2: making the .svg
Either you use software like Inkscape to import your picture and trace the outlines, or you use a web service. For example Convertino or the Fontquirrel Webfont generator. You only need the outlines, no filling!
In Inkscape the rundown to tracing is:

File/Import
Path/Trace Bitmap
Update

OK

Step 3: Import
You got your outline .svg, so import that into any software and you can start making your embossed letters. Personally, I would use Fusion360, but most CAD software support importing an SVG and treat that the same as if you had sketched in that software.

Why rasterize then re-trace the fonts?

@R..GitHubSTOPHELPINGICE I said or, because you need an svg. - and fonts are not importable and then extrudeable in most CAD packages

But you can start with step 2, just making the text in svg and keeping it as vector all along. Inkscape can break down text objects to paths if needed.

@R..GitHubSTOPHELPINGICE true, but then you already know how to use Inkscape :P

OK.. but getting Inkscape to trace a raster image well is harder/more-to-learn than just commanding it to convert a text object to paths.

Tinkercad and Inkscape is likely the easiest method, requiring very little to learn anew. The key in Inkscape is to use Path, Object to Path, which converts the text format to "ordinary" vectors supported by Tinkercad.
If you're comfortable with both programs, there's no reason to divert to a new package.
Tossing a conversion from vector to bitmap and back to vector is going to "damage" the image, while the suggestion I've made will retain all detail.


text:
How to probe twice while mesh bed leveling with a BLTouch setup?
I am using an Ender 3 (v1.1.4) with Marlin 1.1.X bugfix installed. Also BLTouch v3.1 is used. The probe is deployed once only while mesh bed leveling.
How can I make the probe deploy twice at every point? Where am I supposed to change the code for it?
Please explain in detail if possible as I am not familiar with the coding part?

For the 1.1.x (1.1.9) bugfix firmware version, the multiple probing is defined in the configuration.h file.
// The number of probes to perform at each point.
//   Set to 2 for a fast/slow probe, using the second probe result.
//   Set to 3 or more for slow probes, averaging the results.
//#define MULTIPLE_PROBING 2

You should change the configuration to include the multiple probing by uncommenting the line:
#define MULTIPLE_PROBING 2

Note that there is question: "Updating Marlin Firmware - Step by Step Guide" that shows how you should modify the sources.
How to compile and upload/install the compiled binary on your printer controller board depends on the controller board version and type.


text:
Is a slower outer perimeter speed still meaningful?
In the past we had printers with poor mechanics and with primitive software algorithms, therefore we used to print inner perimeters faster than the outermost one. See for example (generic, found online):

However now we have pressure/linear advance which reduces extra oozing/extrusion in corners or areas with variable speed, and in Klipper we also have resonance compensation which takes care of imperfect mechanics allowing printers to be pushed to higher acceleration without visible artifacts (in my case from 2000 to 6000 mm/s^2), see (generic) photo:

However printing slower has a clear disadvantage: E steps calibration is speed dependent with more filament being pushed out at lower speed, see

Is there any reason left to print outer perimeters at a lower speed? Using one speed only except for specific areas (small perimeters, bridges, support) seems to make more sense to me to improve quality and reduce printing times.

Thank you for this question and all provided insight. I started experimenting with higher speeds after trying to answer question: Ideas to tune for 300 % speed. I observed big drops on start after long track's pressure-then-retraction, and had almost the same conclusion as a great explanation in the video. I manipulated flow rate to compensate, and slowed on last layers for nice finish. Actually the answer I proposed there reflects your way of thinking. So I upvote your question, curions to read from others.

@octopus8 the implications of that video are quite far reaching... it is known for a while, but it has been forgotten. http://www.extrudable.me/2013/04/18/exploring-extrusion-variability-and-limits/ and https://forum.duet3d.com/topic/5588/non-linear-extrusion/6

@octopus8 I replied to that question as well

The claim that E steps calibration is speed dependent is false unless your extruder is skipping, in which case you just can't print at that speed without increasing temperature or upgrading your extruder and/or hotend.

@octopus8: Sounds like you don't have linear advance dialed in right.

@R..GitHubSTOPHELPINGICE so according to that video above@4:32, the correct printing speed to avoid "skipping" of the extruder is 3 mm^3/s? and according to https://youtu.be/xAiUZ7HDhdM?t=553 2-3 mm^3/s? and in https://youtu.be/RCPDzT3mS4U?t=390 ? The fact that effective extrusion is dependent on extrusion speed on ANY extruder/hotend/nozzle combination is verified by multiple sources. Have you tested your setup? :)

@FarO: It's mechanically obvious that, without skipping or increase in compression of the filament along a radial axis, the ratio between filament length moved and motor angle turned cannot decrease. The most likely explanation if it seems to is that there actually is skipping. Indeed I don't think you can go much over 3 mm³/s with a cheap hotend, at least at typical temperatures.

I think you could design an experimen to confirm this by counting the expected vs actual "bites per mm" in the filament after it's passed through the extruder but before it goes in the hotend (easier with a bowden of course).

@R..GitHubSTOPHELPINGICE no skipped markings, but changing distance between them depending on extrusion speed. http://www.extrudable.me/2013/04/18/exploring-extrusion-variability-and-limits/ The test you requested.

Lowering speed on outer perimeter has always been mostly wrong, but possibly useful. Usually, it's a poor approximation for what you really want to do, which is lowering acceleration on the outer perimeter, to avoid surface quality and dimensional accuracy errors due to ringing and backlash. However, on bowden printers without compensation for pressure ("linear advance" in Marlin, aka "pressure advance" in some other firmware), slow acceleration and high speeds give really bad error in extrusion consistency, so you're better off just lowering the max speed too whenever you lower acceleration.
It's also possible that you may want to print at extremely high speeds for inner walls and infill - speeds so high that you get a lot of extrusion consistency problems. If so, it would make sense to retain a sensible max speed on the outer wall. This won't avoid the part strength problems from printing too fast, but if your models are just decorative, it might be worth it.
Generally, though, I'd recommend solving these problems right (using linear advance if your printer needs it, lowering outer perimeter acceleration to get rid of artifacts, printing at a speed your hotend can handle, etc.) and deem "slower outer perimeter" an idea whose time has passed.
Also, note that if you're using a bowden printer without linear advance, sticking to the same speed for all extrusion will largely paper over the problem. This is probably the source of your observation that it "improves print quality" for you.

Thanks to Input Shaper, you can print faster, sometimes to the point of reaching your speed limit on the max nozzle flow speed. At that point, if all speeds are hitting that threshold without any changes in quality, you could print every part at the same maximum speed.

Hi and welcome. What is Input Shaper? Is this an additional product (software/hardware?)? Could  you [edit] your answer, and explain a bit more? As it stands, your answer, looks a little bit like spam (although I'm sure that you posted with good intentions). If it is a third-party product, are you affiliated to the company at all? If you are you must disclose this fact. Or is it something that you yourself use and have found to be useful? Thanks

Victor, check the question asked: "Is there any reason left to print outer perimeters at a lower speed? ". Your answer is not answering it... this website works strictly as question/answer approach.


text:
How to stop stalagmite formation with translucent PETGs
I have had this issue with both Sunlu PETG (red) and TechnologyOutlet PETG (blue), both are translucent PETG filaments.
This is printed with a bowden setup, 5 mm retraction, 85 °C bed and 245 °C nozzle. I am convinced it is a retraction issue but it does not show up on my temperature towers.

Are you printing this with the same speed settings as your temperature towers?

How fast are you printing? This looks like an overpressure issue; there is too much pressure left causing filament to leak or ooze filament. Maybe you should print other tests then a temperature tower to tune this. Usually 3 or 4 cubes printed or a row an sort this out. You are also under extruding if you look closely to the flat surface.

Speed is probably the issue then, I copied the MK3 profiles from PrusaSlicer for my Ender6 as a baseline (I did hear the speeds were high but worked well for PLA), and the temp towers were made with teachingtech's generator so not via sliced settings. This is with a 0.8mm nozzle but issue persists at 0.4mm. I will try lower speeds when my current pla print is done! Thank you

I interrogated my filament settings to add a reduced speed override, and discovered that it was overriding the retracting length to DDE levels , which I have now undone- I will test this first then lower the speed.

The stalagmites are the result of your stringing.

It's wet.
This artifact (I love your name for it, stalagmites, and will have to remember/adopt that!) is always caused by wet filament. You may be able to get it to go away by using excessively long retractions, slowing down or speeding up retraction, speeding up travel moves, reducing temperature, or any number of other hacks, but the root cause is that your filament is wet, and many of these other attempts at mitigating the problem will harm the strength and other quality aspects of your prints.
Dry your filament. If it's PETG, it needs to be dried at 70°C or higher (probably up to 85 or 90 is okay) for at least 6 hours if you don't have active air circulation moving the moisture off. With a good dryer that does circulate air, 3-4 hours probably suffices. After that, it needs to be kept dry, in sealed dryboxes (not plastic bags) with generous amounts of desiccant, or re-dried every time you want to print with it.
Being newly opened from the sealed plastic bag the vendor sold it in does not mean it's already dry. It means it's 100% guaranteed to be wet. The tiny desiccant pack that was sealed in the package with it does not mean it's dry. You'd need 10-100x that much desiccant to keep it dry from the time of manufacture until the customer opens it. It just means the vendor is doing what customers expect to make themselves look like a decent-quality brand.

drying temperature depends on the spool - a PLA spool would limit it to 80, an ABS spool at 90.

@Trish: Indeed that's true, but I would say a PLA spool limits it to about 50 unless it was annealed. I've had to respool filament that was undryable because the manufacturer shipped it on PLA spools - a huge pain.

That's why I have s stock of ABS spools from other filament - though I do look into Paper spools in the future for they are easier to get rid off


text:
Which 3D printer to print heat-resistant material?
I need to print a rotor for a DC motor I'm designing. In the process of testing the behaviors of the motor performances, I would need a material that will not deform at a temperature range between 100 °C to 150 °C.
Since I don't have a 3D printer yet, I would like to know what would be the best choice for my need.
I was planning to buy an Ender 3, but I'm not sure this entry-level 3D printer will allow me to obtain the results I'm looking for. I'm excluding PLA material because I think it's the most "fragile" material from this point of view and for my needs.
My questions are:

Which material should I use in order to have a 3D printed object (rotor) that will not deform at a temperature that varies from 100 °C to 150 °C?
Can an Ender 3 (planning to use full metal hotend and also hotbed) be used to print the filament that is heat resistant? Should I buy a resin 3D printer?

I think there should be only one question per "question".

The problem with two questions is you have two different answers to two different questions, but you are only allowed to select one as answering your question.

This question would be better off by splitting the 2 questions in 2 separate questions. The current accepted answer does not answer the question in the title, that seems a bit odd. Either change the title, split the questions or rewrite the question to be more about the materials. I don't see a simple Ender printer be able to print e.g. PEEK. This might involve heavy modifications, NASA has done some effort including infrared lamps with that respect.

If you print the part with PLA (for ease of printing), you can then create a mould with high-temperature silicone and use that to cast pewter. In case that gives you some useful ideas.

PEEK (poly ether ether ketone) has a glass transition temperature of 145 °C (293 °F).
Melting temperature
345 °C (653 °F)
Nozzle temperature
370 - 410 °C
Heated bed
120 - 150 °C

Polycarbonate has a glass transition temperature of about 147 °C (297 °F)

Polypropylene has a glass transition temperature is 215 °C

Polymaker PolyMide CoPA (specialized Nylon) Filament has a softening temperature of ~180 °C, but they don't specify the glass transition temperature.  Other materials have the glass transition temperature about 5 °C below the temperature the material softens.
However, the glass transition temperature is only an indication of a physical change: while uncommon, a material may be rigid enough well above it's glass transition temperature.  How to interpret various thermal-related filament properties?
A side issue to consider as far as layout is FDM prints are weakest between layers (layer separation), so you want a layout where this affects your print the least.

Polymaker CoPA (nylon, modified) should not deform up to 180°C.

Does glass transition mean that it will start to deformate at that temperature? (ie for Polypropylene 215°C)

Glass transition means it is starting to move from solid to liquid, but doesn't have a distinct melting temperature with heat of fusion.  The material gradually gets easier to deform as the temperature goes above the glass transition temperature.

@PerryWebb it depends, it's not a clear distinction. Plastics deform permanently also below the glass transition temperature (creep), and some are use routinely above their glass transition temperature without deformation. It's just a physical parameter that typically relates to a sudden increase of plasticity, but not always...

H/LDPE, POM, PP all have glass transition temperature below 0 °C but still are perfectly solid at room temperature. See https://omnexus.specialchem.com/polymer-properties/properties/glass-transition-temperature

+1 for PEEK, it has great dimensional stability at a wide range of temperatures. If printing in PEEK, do some research on annealing for longer crystals and increased strength.

@PerryWebb maybe you want to add a link to https://3dprinting.stackexchange.com/questions/15490/how-to-interpret-various-thermal-related-filament-properties for the table with properties

Using an Ender 3 for high temperature materials is possible but you need to enclose it to be able to heat the air up to 100 °C.
It's quite involved and it would be much better, if it's something you do seldomly, to have the parts printed professionally.
Many thing start warping or breaking at 100 °C.


text:
What's wrong with my prints?
I just got my printer for Christmas. It's an Ender 3 Pro. I ran two test prints and they came out great.  However, after changing the filament from the one that came with the printer, my prints started looking like these (the black ones).
I've tried 2-3 different filaments.  I've adjusted my settings temp and speed, I've even cleaned it. All of these are the same slicer settings. The completed white one was from the filament that came with the machine. (Yes, I know they are all phallic-shaped it was an inside joke that was being worked on for gifts).
Any settings or ideas of what can be happening.

different filament or even different colors need different parameters, sometimes dramatically different than what you're used to. Something is WAY off and I really don't think those are the same slicer settings.

Do you have any of the original filament left? It might be useful to do a test print with that, to see if anything has changed with your printer, or if it's just caused by the filament. If it's the printer, you need to go through appropriate diagnostic steps. If it's the filament, the correct bed/extruder temperatures are usually printed on the side of the reel.

This looks like volumetric flow is enabled through the printer LCD controller. The top image is a very typical example for a large underextrusion, e.g. what you get when the printer expects volumetric filament flow while it is sliced for filament distance.

Apart from the points above about testing of your printer with the original filament and  underextrusion, why don't you use simple 1cm cube for testing? Like this one - https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:177694. It would decrease printing time and waste of plastic.