text:
Has anyone made their own custom LEGO bricks?
As I've just learned, LEGO bricks are made from ABS plastics.
I wonder if it would be possible to make some simple molds at home, get some ABS pellets, melt them up and make your own custom bricks? Novelty shapes or colours, perhaps?
Has anyone tried this, did it work?

Sounds like an awesome idea!

Completely feasible, all you need is the equipment and you're good to go!

Nice question. I cast a lot with resin in RTV molds but I would like to know more about ABS casting (tips and tricks).

Apart from those fans who contracted professional molds for new parts, no. Some have made milled, not molded, parts.  This question might be too open ended. For one, it is feasible if you have lots of money, but

This question might be too open ended. For one, it is feasible if you have lots of money, so an answerable question could be Has anybody made a custom part using hobbyist equipment? Also Bricks is really too vague; it's very hard to make a brick, much harder than a sword or a gun.

mikl: It's certainly "feasible" because LEGO does it. I tried to redirect your question a bit because I think you are looking for more practical advice.

Yeah, feasible should probably be extrapolated as “without spending thousands of dollars” :)

People with 3d printers have made their own LEGO bricks. The plastic used is ABS.
Blog post

Interestingly, 3d printers can be constructed out of LEGO parts - you could have it self replicating!
Of course, you would need a very expensive and high quality printer to make good pieces. Cheaper ones can only make hollow bottoms and the banding from manufacture is highly visible.

Can you make your answer more specific? Bricks made on $ 100,000 printers interoperate with the real brick but sub $1000 printers produce bricks with poor tolerances.

LEGO itself uses 3D printers for prototyping, by the way.

Ah, yes – of course. There's little you can't do with 3D printers :)

@Joubarc, reference?  Not that I don't believe you, but it'd be cool to read about.

Sorry, this isn't something I read on the web, but witnessed firsthand. LEGO Benelux once lend BeLUG a prototype of 8294 Excavator to show at an event, and the linear actuators in there weren't fully functional, but prototype parts which had clearly been 3D printed. I may have seen this on other occasions as well, but that example was very obvious.

Well, nothing a good search can't handle, apparently... here you go: LEGO Turns Design Concepts into Working Prototypes using Objet 3D Printer - the video provided by LEGO is very interesting.

Big Ben Bricks sells some custom LEGO-compatible elements, mostly train wheels. Since they produce sizes which the LEGO company doesn't, they have some customer, but the production cost is usually quite high for such a quality.
BrickForge does sell custom elements too, and so do BrickArms. Usually, custom element producer will focus on elements the LEGO company is not likely to make, either because they feel the element fills too small a niche, or because they don't want to (arms). Yet there is some demand, so these sites aim to fill the gap.
If you've got ideas, maybe contacting one of those would be interesting, either to learn about their processes, or to suggest the part.

This came in as I was typing the same answer and content!  +1 for prescience.

I'm surprised it didn't happen in the other direction, I'm usually quite a slow typist. Cheers, you'll beat me next time :-)

Yes, is it definitly possible.  However, as this page states:

Producing physical prints from our provided 3D models prompts certain fabrication considerations. According to Wikipedia, the precision of Lego pieces is less than 10 microns. As of early 2012, however, standard Makerbot printers have an XY resolution of 100 microns (0.1mm) and a default layer thickness of 360 microns (0.36mm). We thus caution that fabrication of the Free Universal Construction Kit with current (2012-era) solutions for DIY stereolithography, such as the Makerbot, Printrbot or RepRap, may lack the precision required for reliable or satisfactory coupling with standard commercial pieces. A great deal depends on how well-tuned the printer is; thus, your mileage may vary. In any case, we expect this situation will improve gradually, but inexorably, in tandem with improvements to these vibrantly evolving fabrication platforms. The artist’s proof shown here was created in a UV-cured white resin using a commercial-grade Objet (“polyjet”) 3D printer, which has a horizontal resolution of 42 microns, and a layer thickness of 16 microns. Ponoko.com and other private fabrication services offer printing from Objet machines and other high-resolution devices.

Free Art and Technology [F.A.T.] Lab and Sy-Lab. “The Free Universal Construction Kit.” Fffff.at, 20 March 2012. http://fffff.at/free-universal-construction-kit.
The article cited deals with a universal construction kit that allows you to connect ten diffent types of construction sets together, and as this is a Lego site, you may not want to visit it.
However, the point being that "standard" 3D printers (such as the Makerbot or RepRap) will probably lack the precision to produce tolerable Lego bricks.

We do acknowledge the existence of other building block toys here ;)

@Zhaph-BenDuguid: Construction sets, as in, K'Nex and Tinkertoys.

True yes we do consider those pretty much off topic ;) however that doesn't stop us looking...

Here is a UV printer that can print on the Lego brick, see this link. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3OD2DCCpe2U&t=15s
And I think this A3 UV printer is good choice. http://www.wayprinter.com/uv-flatbed-printer/XP600-Epson-uv-printer-XP600sUV.html


text:
Why do some sets have two different numbers?

Possible Duplicate:
Why did Lego use the same number for two different sets?

For example, 324 Ricky Racoon on his Scooter and 3605 Ricky Racoon and his Scooter appear to be identical in every way but the set number. So why did Lego use two different numbers?

My first Technic set (and last LEGO set before the dark ages) was the 852 helicopter, which had number 954 in the US. http://lego.wikia.com/wiki/852_Helicopter

The two questions are different. This one is "one set, two numbers" while the other is "two sets, one number".

In some cases, there were different numbers for the USA and the rest of the world, but I don't know if that's the case with Ricky Racoon.
LEGO also extended from a 3-digit numbering to a 4-digit numbering around that time, so maybe some sets were renumbered. At the time, LEGO didn't seem to care that much about set numbers (and as you've noted, reused some).

The Space sets also released first in North America in 1979 while Europe got Castle. The Idea Book 6000 came out in 1980 depicting the full range to both sides.  In 1981 the distribution crossed over after Castle had test-marketed in a few cities in the US. The Castle sets like 383 Knights Tournament got new 60xx numbers assigned at that time too.

source: Stack Exchange

license: Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0/

sort: votes


text:
How can I keep LEGO winches from becoming tangled?
I have some LEGO winches/strings with hooks.

Putting these away inevitably results in tangled strings (the next time I take them out). Even winding them up doesn't help.
Storing these in drawers and/or shelves is not an option for me. I keep most of my LEGO collection in a LEGO Star Wars box.
Is there some way I could build other bricks onto these so they won't unwind?

I take 2 of these:
Place 2 pins in the holes
And then sandwich the loop of string between.
It works well and you likely have the pieces lying nearby.

i've put mine into one of these little film-cans:

very simple, but effective: that way they're easy to find and can fly around in a big LEGO-box with all the other bricks without getting tangled.

You could try wrapping the winch in a rubber band to prevent it from becoming unravelled.

all_licenses: Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0/


text:
What different bricks exist with studs on the sides?
(Partially inspired by this question.)
I have been wondering recently just how many different LEGO bricks there are with studs on the side.
Which LEGO bricks have studs specifically on the sides?
Note: I am asking about bricks, not plates and/or other types of elements.

... how is this question "not constructive"?

Should I delete this question, then?

I really want to answer this question, but I can't figure out where to start. The second part is almost impossible to answer (have you seen plates back-to-back, hold together with levers?), not mentionning that even LEGO used non-SNOT-specific parts to achieve a SNOT effect. And the first part... well, I guess a lot of parts can fit the bill, but maybe some others aren't as clear a case.

@Joe Wreschnig: I've edited the question to make it specific to bricks.

I go with Joe Wreschnig on this one. The list is too long because it covers any piece that is used in a SNOT way (which could be all pieces)

@pcantin I specifically wrote: "bricks, not plates and/or other types of elements".

@PeterDC I think the complexity of the question is in the semantic.  What is a brick? To me a plate is a specialization of a brick, so when I read 'bricks' in your question I think of a lot of pieces.  To me this was confusing.

There are a lot of elements shown (together with other possibilities and SNOT-techniques) at holgermatthes.de, where there are pieces that are really bricks with side-studs (excluding all the other possibilities for SNOT-building) are those (+ the headlight/erling-brick and the big gray blocks you can see here, which are not shown in the following image):

LEGO lists these as "With Knobs" on their Pick-a-Brick tools, i.e. "1x4 With 4 Knobs" (Design ID 30414), or "1x1 With 2 Knobs" (Design ID 87087). They call the Erling-Brick an "Angular Brick 1x1" (Design ID 4070). http://shop.lego.com/en-GB/Pick-A-Brick-11998


text:
Is there virtual LEGO designing software?

Possible Duplicate:
Do any programs exist that allow you to build own LEGO plans?

Some years ago, there was a really good program to build models from LEGO. But today I can't find it. Do you know such software which runs on a Linux machine?

The LEGO Digital Designer that was the client/creation part of DesignByMe is Windows or Mac only.
This is regularly updated with the latest sets of parts available through Pick a Brick and similar tools.
It allows you to print off building instructions, or upload your creations to the LEGO site.
Previously, you were able to order a boxed set of your model for yourself, friends or family, however The LEGO Group discontinued this service in January 2012.


text:
What is the largest single LEGO piece?
What is the largest single LEGO piece ever produced? This does not include LEGO affiliates like Duplo.
Clarifications

It must be a purchasable block.

By largest, I mean largest by Volume/Weight of Plastic

Must be a baseplate.  Waiting for the ?x? count to come in...

Note that DUPLO isn't really an affiliate of LEGO, DUPLO is LEGO.

By "no affiliate", I think he wanted to exclude things such as playtables or other furniture pieces, which would easily win.

The "Extra Large" grey baseplate is 15"/38cm square, with 48 studs to a side.
Alternatively, the moulded castle baseplate had a greater volume (with height), and a base size of 32x48 studs and 6 bricks high (15"x10"/38x25cm) (in other colours as well):

Tim offered up the following, also with a base size of 32x48 studs, 6 bricks high (15"x10"/38x25cm) (it came in a few other colours too):

Peeron also lists a 48x48 Raised with Staircases and Pits:
Peeron.com
As well as a very old "Giant Base Plate" and a "Road 3-way Curve with Gray Pattern", both at 50x50 studs.
Joubarc suggested the "Boat Hull Floating 74 x 18 x 7":
Peeron.com
Stretching the definition of "Single Piece" somewhat, the "Electric Technic Control Centre with Yellow and Red Buttons" from the Technic Control Center was a beast of a part:
Peeron.com

Made this CW to allow others to add their contenders

It's still pressed from a single sheet, so the volume of plastic is probably less.

@fredley Techincally I believe they're injection moulded rather than pressed, and the thickness is usually consistent across the part...

This is getting silly - I need someone to get all these pieces and weigh them, or measure their volume via displacement ;)

A LARGE bounty will be awarded to anyone who does that!

@Zhaph it's my understanding that baseplates are vacuum-formed. There is a mold involved but the sheet of plastic goes in whole.

@erikolson Fair enough :) that would have some impact then, and I imagine their automated factories wouldn't leave the plastic heating up long enough to sag into the middle for added thickness on the sides

this brick has always annoyed me, when sorting my bricks

ooo, soccer stadium base. nice.

if you're just counting the basal area, it seems to be the gray 48x48 baseplate:

man, this was a beast of a baseplate. Also game in green as half of the lego football field.

Before that, the extra-large gray baseplate was 50x50, but nowadays only the 48x48 can be bought.

Also in Blue, plus some rare ones that were never in sets: http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=4186

If you go by Volume/Weight. This is heaviest single-element I've ever seen.  It's not just plastic but it's one element made and sold by LEGO.

Good call, I didn't think about "multipart" single bricks, although I think I can still trump that one with a different Technic controller hang on...

I think there's two categories: Single plastic-only piece and Single Lego element.

There you go, Electric Technic Control Centre with Yellow and Red Buttons ;)

Yes, and there's one sitting in a box in my loft. Was one of my brother's sets, lucky so and so ;)

I found this video (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yJXPkhjGwkg&feature=related) with the Electric Technic Control Centre in use

@Zhaph :
(from my sister's LEGO collection)

What set was this from? Possibly a Belville one?

@tombull89 Yeah, my sister's: Bellville 5862

Your sister's, yeah, right :-)

@Joubarc And we all know how many 'sisters' you have.

all_licenses: Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/


text:
How can I make my LEGO engine go faster
I have a LEGO engine powered by a PF XL motor but I didn't realize until now that the motor is not that fast and that even when I increase gear ratio the gears always get either unattached or jammed.

What should I do?

Update:
Thanks to mindstormsboi and Alex I was able to change the design of the engine to the following. It works much better now.

What does your engine do? Why do you want it go faster? I think I can see two ramps. Is this a GBC module? If you remove the motor and crank by hand, does it still jam?

Following your update I can see you've skipped bracing your gear assembly. Since you still use XL-motor I would go with following setup: motor - Technic bricks (1 stud wide) - gears(1st pair) - Technic bricks (1 stud wide) - 2nd pair of gears - last set of Technic bricks (1 stud wide) - output axle. This will ensure your gears won't move under load.

No i did not? I just put up a picture of it without its brace so you could see how the drivetrain works!

@Nerd You forgot to use that @ again...

If you need a fast motor but not having too much torque, yet powerful enough
 - consider using a PF L-motor. It has roughly half of the XL-motor's torque, but twice as much rpm.
The PF XL-motor has high torque, considering its intended application with LEGO. This is known to cause some serious damage to gears if the assembly isn't rigid enough. It is essential to have your gears braced properly from both sides. Otherwise your gears will be slipping and/or grinding under load. In your picture you have your gears braced from one side only - this will cause you problems. You need to construct rigid bracing from the other side as well.
I find Sariel's Gear Ratio Calculator useful for finding the right gears for your application.

I know it really does hurt my gears! If you look in the picture closely at the small gears teeth, they look all scraped and rigged. I have already gone through 2 gears ! Lmao! Thanks so much for the usefull tip it actualy worked and now i can actualy see the engine go fast without hearing that scratching on the poor little gear

To me, that does not really look like a proper gear train. I recommend that you line up all your gears on a technic beam and stick axles through them (and obviously bushes so they don't fall out). You also need to be using the correct gears. In other words, the ones you're using seem incompatible with each other, so you need to find gears that are designed to work together such as this gear with this gear combined and this gear with this gear combined. Also, make sure that any other Lego bricks are not interfering with the gear train. More info about gear trains.
Here is an example of what I mean:

As you can see there are no bushes attached to the axle, but that's because I'm using axles with stop. I lined up my gears on a beam without putting them too far or too close from each other and now they freely spin with no problem.
You also wonder how to make your engine faster. If using one single big gear and another small gear together is not fast enough, try adding some more. I will show you one way of doing this step-by-step.

Above is one big gear and one smaller gear, which is considerably faster than without any gears at all (unless you use the smaller gear as input gear, which gives opposite effect). If it is not fast enough for you, then we will expand the gear train to make it faster.

Now there is another big gear on top of the small one. This is because another small gear will follow after it, which will be almost twice as fast as the previous small gear.

Now there is the smaller gear. As I already said, it will be faster than the previous one due to the size of the other gears following it.

Now we put a bush under it to prevent it from slipping. You might think I could've put another big gear there instead, but no, I can't, because it will ruin the gear train and jam it up. The gear train will therefore continue on the other side of the beam, like so:

A big gear was placed on the other side of the beam to continue the gear train, and of course, a smaller gear will follow after it. But keep in mind that the smaller gear should be on the right axle from the bigger gear, not the left, because the axles on the left are already controlled by gears and you may end up twisting the axle or breaking the teeth off of the gears above them. It is also worth noting that putting too many gears will make it too hard for the motor to move them due to the heavy load of overall friction between them, so don't try to make it too fast.
Update: Here's another picture of some example gear trains taken from this answer:

You can also use gear links to make your gears faster while they are spread apart, as seen here:

Just note that there are different variations of those gear links which are designed to work with different gears.

Comments are not for extended discussion; this conversation has been moved to chat.

license: Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/


text:
Is this minifigure with a white shirt showing a little orange monster worth anything?
I have a LEGO minifigure that I am unable to find anywhere on the internet. He has the classic smiling yellow head, with a white torso portraying an orange monster shaped as a 3D cube/hexagon, with little vampire fangs in its mouth and crossed eyes. He has simple red legs. Does anyone know how much it might be worth? I am thinking of selling it.

I've found the legs and the head. I've been doing a few searches that would be guaranteed to get this torso, but so far, it doesn't appear, which makes me think the part is still from a third-party company. You should probably sell this on eBay... (don't sell it on BL, I don't think they allow third-party parts).

I agree, I looked through basically "all" torsos on bricklink and nope. Can't even seem to locate what this logo could be

Just to chime in with my contribution, I have cropped the icon on the torso and ran a reverse Google Image Search, but it has failed to turn up any relevant results. From this I guess the logo is not widely known, thus should be a one-off or at best a small batch. A high resolution, crisp image could help though, where the artwork is in the focus plane.

Everything apart torso has been available in multiple sets. The print on torso is odd though. Normally, for minifigure produced by LEGO, the best smiley you could get is a picture of another minifigure head with some face expression. So this print is some sort of logo. While LEGO produced some minifigures with prints for some special occasions this one looks to be custom (printed by non-LEGO) due to being just a logo, without mentioning any special names, dates or any other meaning being available on the same minifigure.

@mindstormsboi What do you mean? We still don't know anything about this minifig. It could be worthless or priceless.

@Aziraphale I'm guessing the minifigure is worthless because those legs and the head appeared in many, many different minifigs but that torso seems um, very rare since it's barely mentioned on the internet but many Lego fans simply hate clone-brands and would probably not accept the offer of that torso. But maybe on eBay they might, yet I still think the minifig is practically worthless.

@mindstormsboi I also think that it is not valuable. However, it could be a famous Japanese comic book character. So, ebay could be a bad advice since unknown pieces may sell at a very low price. This happened to me with a brick set I bought in South Korea. 1 Euro for a 500-parts set.

It's worth whatever someone will pay you for it.

The classic smiley head alone is selling on Bricklink for US$0.50 - 2.50 on average, depending on used/new and which style of stud. Some have sold for US$6.

The whole minifig assembly reminds me of of those services that allow you to print your own image on a torso piece such as Minifigs.me.

I wouldn't be surprised if this minifig was made using the same service as I cannot identify the graphic. I suspect this minifig could have been ordered as a promotional item.
The actual parts themselves are so common that they might even be the cheapest parts you could get to make a minifig. The parts can be sourced easily for under a dollar assuming you bought the torso without a custom print.


text:
North American market Lego boxes sold in Europe (by Lego itself). Is that normal?
Thanks to this old question I know that North American market Lego boxes have the piece-count printed on the box, as that is a requirement in USA and Canada.
European market boxes don't have that.
However in the last 3 months I have purchased 2 Lego Creator boxes in The Netherlands (which is still Europe, as far as I know) that have the North America box style.
One box (the 1960's Mustang model) was bought January 2020 in a regular toy shop (not a Lego store). And I noticed several other sets in their shop with piece-counts on the box.
(So this could be a case of a retail chain sourcing their stock via unusual channels.)
But the other one (the Harley Fat Boy model) was bought middle of April 2020 directly from Lego on Lego.com and shipped from their German warehouse.
How common is this?
Some reasons come to mind:
Is this just a matter of Lego occasionally using packaging intended for the North American market to supplement their European packaging stock if that runs low?
Is Lego having production/stock issues due to Corona and is selling NA sets in Europe in stead of shipping them to NA?
Or is Lego starting to use a single box for all markets on some models? (The linked question is 7 years old. Things could have changed since then.)
Does anyone know?

It might be hard to answer, as we don't know what is TLG doing on their side. It could be one of the reasons you've mentioned. And I haven't seen US box in Eastern Europe for past 7 years.

On a related note, when the Mandalorian battle packs came out, there were European boxes sold in our local Lego Store (in Canada) with stickers placed on showing the piece count.


text:
Is there a way to identify the part number of a brick, just by using an image of it?
I am trying to get my brother a custom made gift of an enemy he likes from a game. However, I don't know the names of the parts, and to make my problem harder I have never seen some of these parts. I need to order them online, however, without the name or part number, I am at a standstill. If anybody can shed some light on how to solve my situation, that would be very much appreciated. Here is the design for reference:
https://www.reddit.com/r/zelda/comments/6k9p4b/how_to_build_your_own_lego_guardian_botw/

Could you tell which specific image you need help with?

I am not specifically looking for the part #s of specific pieces, as there are to many that I don't know the names of. Rather, I am looking for a method of determining the part #s and names of the pieces. I edited my question to make my problem a bit clearer. Sorry for the miscommunication!

@UnorthodoxParadox Welcome to Bricks.SE! I've closed this question as a duplicate. Hopefully the answer on the other question helps you out. Certainly feel free ask additional questions if you get stuck on identifying specific parts. We're happy to help!


text:
How should I arrange LEGO to sell per pound?
I've dug up my LEGO collection, and I'm looking to sell it on Ebay or BrinkLink. All of my sets are mixed in containers. I still have the instructions but no original boxes.
I considered sorting the LEGO into sets however I realized that the extra profit I would get would be negligible for the effort it would take, especially since a lot of the LEGO is LEGO City and lesser valued sets like LEGO Agents, LEGO Exoforce etc.
Due to this, I have found that it would be best to sell the LEGO per pound. I could just sell it in bulk but I would get less profit according to this answer to another question.
If I was to sell it per pound, how should I divide the bricks? Per color, brick type (and if so what brick type) etc, or does it not matter?
Thanks.

See also the awesome answer here: https://bricks.stackexchange.com/a/9718/56

Good question, and welcome to LEGO Answers! Assuming you are going to break up your collection but not sort it into sets, you will likely get more money for your collection if you sell it in smaller lots sorted by color. You can get a sense for what different colors are worth per pound by searching completed listings on eBay.
However, I don't believe that the answer you cited is correct in most cases (including yours). The first item listed on the most popular answer is:

Sell the collection as-is (with as much honest description as you can muster and great photos if you're selling on-line).

You don't just have random bricks. Since it sounds like you have many complete or nearly complete sets, you'd be losing that value if you break everything up an sell it in 2 pound lots.
Assuming that your collection is well kept, and you don't want to do the work to sort it, I'd recommend selling it as one large lot. List the sets that you have instructions for and indicate that you believe that they are 99% complete (e.g. you aren't aware of any missing pieces or minifigs, but some have probably wandered off over the years). There are definitely people out there that buy large lots like this and separate out and sell sets for a profit.
You'll want to take plenty of pictures. I'd spread things out and take as many detailed shots of the parts as you can. Experienced buyers will be able to tell pretty quickly how complete your collection is. Given that minifigs have much more value than regular parts, I'd also recommend taking photos of them in a way that allows them to all be identified.

Excerpt from Brickpicker:

With bulk, in general terms, the more time you spend on it the more
  money you make. At a bare minimum any bulk lot needs at least a simple
  hose down and a quick sort to remove as many non LEGO as possible. A
  bulk lot treated in that manner would bring, on average, $5.00 per
  pound on eBay. To make any real money you need to spend the time to
  sort. Bricks sorted by color usually bring around $10.00 per pound.
  This assumes that you removed all minifigs and minifig parts. The real
  money in bulk is made by bringing sets back from the dead. The last
  loose 3181 I sold went for $46.00, had I sold it by weight I could
  have expected about $7.50. It took about 3 hours of work to sort/find
  all the pieces, but the extra return made up for it..


text:
LEGO Mindstorms IDE on macOS flickering
I experience a screen flickering in the LEGO Mindstorms program on macOS when the mouse pointer is moved across the window. The screen flickering is present for all normal users but not the administrative user. The screen flickering was not present in the beginning, but arrived after using the program for a couple of hours.
The problem is the same as described by BetaRide: EV3 ide flickering, but the answer does not solve my problem.
I am using LEGO Mindstorms version 1.2.2 Danish. This is running on a macOS Scierra 10.12.2 on a MacBook Pro 15-inch, Mid 2010.
I have tried to update and reinstall Microsoft Silverlight. I have tried to reinstall LEGO Mindstorm app by deleting the Mindstorms app from /Applications and removing the LEGO folder from /Library/Application Support. The reinstall gave an error message on first attempt, but succeeded in second attempt. I have rebooted the system several times during the process. The flickering persists.
Any thoughts?

As of this morning the IDE flickers for all users - including the adminstrative user. So no difference related to user.


text:
Lego Mindstorms RCX RIS 2.0 IR tower Windows 10 64-bit driver
I found this question:
Lego Mindstorms RCX RIS 2.0 IR tower Windows 7 / Windows XP driver
and I wanted to ask if someone found a solution.
But due to my lack of reputation I couldn't create a comment asking ... further
my system differs to the original post.
Kind regards

Possible duplicate of Lego Mindstorms RCX RIS 2.0 IR tower Windows 7 / Windows XP driver

Hi Thomas, and welcome to LEGO Answers. One of the answers to that linked question does also mention running on Windows 10 64bit, sadly it's a little under specified how Philipp managed to get this running. The fundamental problem is that this tower is now 16 years old, and at the time 64bit architectures were fairly rare in a family home - so the drivers were never produced for that.

Robotic Invention System 2.0
Hello.
I found this blog as I just upgraded my Mac with an Intel processor to one with an M1 processor.
I was running RIS 2.0 and Mindstorms NXT on Windows XP through Parallels.
Unfortunately, the new version of Parallels for the M1 processor no longer supports installing Windows XP.
But I just found a solution that worked for me.
UTM is similar to Parallels and you have two options: make a virtual machine with Windows or emulate it.
I took the option to emulate it and was able to install and run perfectly RIS 2.0, the Ultimate Builders Set, and NXT versions 1 and 2.
Requirements:

Install UTM on the Mac. Here is the link:
https://mac.getutm.app

Have a CD with Windows XP and make an ISO (CD image). (You can search the internet for how to make an ISO from a CD or DVD.

You also need to make an ISO of each Software you want to install: RIS 2.0, NXT, etc.

Download the “capsule” for Windows XP from the following link and follow the installation instructions: https://mac.getutm.app/gallery/windows-xp

Once Windows XP is installed and you run it through UTM, you will see a gray symbol in the upper right part of the Windows window, like a CD.

You click on it and it is as if you “loaded” the CD, in this case, the RIS 2.0 ISO.

You have to select it from the folder where you have saved it.

Once you load it, the installation menu will come out automatically.

If this doesn't happen, go to My Computer, all within Windows XP, and select drive D, which is actually a virtual CD drive that loaded the RIS 2.0 ISO. You double click to start the installation.

Everything should install without problems.

The IR transmission tower MUST NOT BE CONNECTED UNTIL THE SOFTWARE HAS BEEN PROPERLY INSTALLED.

Once the program requests it, you connect the IR tower.

IMPORTANT. When the tower is connected, Windows has to recognize and install it. When you get the option to install it, you have to tell it that it will use the software that is on the virtual CD. (Sometimes the RIS install window is on top of the Windows window to install the tower. You'll have to find it by temporarily minimizing the RIS install window.) If Windows doesn't install it, the software won't recognize it.

If you do this correctly, the RIS 2.0 software will recognize the tower and you will no longer have a problem.

If you have the Mindstorms NXT ISO, the installation is even easier because you don't have to install the tower.

I think using a Raspberry Pi device might work well in this situation.
Here is a tutorial on how to install Windows 98 on a Raspberry Pi.
https://magpi.raspberrypi.org/articles/run-windows-98-on-raspberry-pi-with-dosbox-x
Then install the old IR software onto that.
Plug IR Tower in and it could work.
I found this tutorial, too.
https://minordiscoveries.wordpress.com/2014/01/20/using-nqc-on-a-raspberry-pi-to-program-a-lego-mindstorms-rcx-brick/

Since most of the questions and answers regarding the old LEGO Mindstorms are outdated and/or not working (at least that I could find), I'll provide my solution, which worked for me as of 2024 using Windows 11 Pro, that should be applicable for current and future modern systems.
This solution is for the LEGO Mindstorms RCX 2.0 with USB infrared tower. Some steps may be applicable to other versions (please comment or edit if you try other versions).

In summary, the following steps walk you through installing a VM and installing the USB tower in the VM.
STEP 1: install virtualization software
You'll need software to run virtual machines (VMs), but note that you'll need VM software that supports USB-passthrough in order to connect the infrared tower. Options:

(not recommended) The Hyper-V software that's included in Windows 11. This is accessed via Turn Windows features on or off which you can search for in the start menu. However, it does not passthrough USB devices. There are workarounds, but they're not simple. One involves setting up RDP and passing USB devices through the remote connection; I tried this is and gave up because I couldn't get it working.
For Hyper-V, you'll need the following enabled in the Turn Windows features on or off settings

Hyper-V
Virtual Machine Platform
Windows Hypervisor Platform

And if you ARE NOT using Hyper-V, then you should probably disable the above options, as they may conflict with other VM software

VirtualBox (for Windows) supports USB devices. This is supposed to work, but I tried it and couldn't get it working on my Windows 11 Pro host PC. VirtualBox showed the LEGO tower in the list of devices but gave an error when I tried to connect it to the VM. I think it was just my particular setup, so feel free to try this yourself.

VMware Workstation Pro (for Windows) supports USB devices. As soon as I plugged in the USB tower, a prompt appears asking if you want to connect it to the VM. This worked great.
How to download: VMware Workstation Pro is now free for personal use. It's a bit hard to find the download page. Since Broadcom Inc. acquired VMware in 2023 (source: Wikipedia), you'll now find the download at broadcom.com. You'll need to sign up for a free account then you'll find the download at https://support.broadcom.com/group/ecx/productdownloads?subfamily=VMware%20Workstation%20Pro shown here:

I used the first one listed, using Windows 11 Pro as the host PC.

You should be able to use other VM software on other hosts too, like linux or mac. Please report if you try these.

STEP 2: Install legacy operating system
I used Windows XP with SP3. I've seen others report success with Windows 98.
You'll need the installation disc (.iso file)--details not included here for the sake of brevity. But I'll note that there's good info over here (which I contributed to) on activating Windows XP now that Microsoft's activation servers are offline.
If it helps, my Windows XP VM was setup with:

1 GB memory
1 processor (there's known issues with Mindstorms with multi-threading, so start with 1 before trying more)
USB Controller using USB 1.1

STEP 3: Install RIS software and drivers
If you have the original disc(s), go ahead and install them inside the VM. I found that the included driver didn't work. Instead, I found that the USB tower only worked once I installed updated drivers found here called Tower driver version 1.0.50.164. For ease of getting these files into the VM, I packaged up the driver into an iso file which you can download at github here. You can attach the iso file to the virtual CD drive.
Here's what it looks like once setup in VMware:

The host PC does not need any drivers installed, but it should detect the USB tower nonetheless.
STEP 4: Open RIS and configure the tower in the settings
Open the RIS software and run through the config wizard in the Settings menu. You'll need your RCX brain powered-up and sitting in front of the infrared tower. After that, you should be good to go. Good luck!


text:
Starting Lego robotics projects low-budget with the intention of expanding later
I've been digging around for cheap ways to build and control simple devices and was looking at the Mindstorms sets when I found WeDo and WeDo 2.0.  WeDo appears to be compatible with Power Functions sets, but WeDo 2.0 uses a different connector which is similar to, but not the same as, Mindstorms.
I'd like to start low-budget (suggesting WeDo as my starting point, because those controllers are much cheaper) but I want the option of expanding to more of the Mindstorms functionality in the future.
For my purposes, right now, WeDo seems adequate, but it looks like a dead end (unless the WeDo 2.0 connector is the future, in which case maybe EV3 is the dead end!). That's antithetical to the reasons I would even consider Lego in the first place.
Digging further I see rumors that WeDo 2.0 and Mindstorms may be set to converge in the future.  So even if I convince myself that i have no choice but to start with EV3, that could still turn out to be incompatible with future parts; but on the other hand it may turn out that my cheap WeDo 2.0 controller would work with future Mindstorms accessories.
Perhaps WeDo 2.0 and EV3 are compatible using just a cheap adapter, like how PF1 parts are.  I don't know.
In brief; if I want to expand my kit in the future, and I don't want to spend a lot of money today, then what should I buy?  Is there any concrete information available about compatibility or future kits that would help me make this decision?

Any adapters to get components from one set working with another would be worth knowing any, too.

A helpful but out-of-date overview here.

According to the WeDo 2.0 FAQ

Is this a new plug system?
Yes, this is the new LEGO Power Functions plug that has been optimized also to meet potential future needs.
What does that mean for the existing plug systems on other Power Function and MINDSTORMS products? Will they also be changed?
Yes, eventually we will convert to the new plug system after a transition period. The exact timing of this transition has not been determined.

However, if you want to build something today, WeDo is a good choice since it is compatible with the current Power Functions products.
There is also the 3rd-party SBrick that works with current Power Functions products but uses Bluetooth Low Energy like WeDo 2.0.

How does that fit in with Mindstorms products?  The power functions set seems a little limited and if that doesn't change, and if they're not compatible (say, with an adapter), then I might have to abandon them and repurchase everything when I come up against that limit.

Your question seems mostly about WeDo. Perhaps you could reword your question a bit to make it more clear what exactly you would like to know. For example, what is the end result that you hope to accomplish?

Looking more closely at all the options, I see that only the Mindstorms sets have removable cables in the devices themselves.  That gives me the option of buying spare cables to make into adapters for other kinds of controller without having to spoil the device itself.
So I think it's best if I buy just the motors and sensors from the EV3 family that I need, and use a cheap third-party controller rather than the EV3 brick.
I do see a couple of devices designed to control EV3 parts (eg., PiStorms and EVShield), so I wouldn't even need to make up an adapter.  Those are more expensive than the WeDo controllers, but they're at least compatible with Mindstorms parts.
But I think what I'm more likely to do is to rip apart a cable and attach it to a micro:bit, because break-out boards and motor control boards for that are dirt cheap and I already have the main board sitting here in front of me.


text:
LEGO Model to 3D Converter
I've created a LEGO figure using a great number of ball joints for maximum flexibility. The pre-finalized version of this model, before I got the legs working the way I wanted them, is shown in this picture:

For those of you who've been around a lot recently, this is the figure for which I posted the palm build challenge a while ago; still considering the answers I've gotten for that, by the way, because you all have such great ideas that I can't just choose one.
But I'm getting sidetracked. I'd like to see if I can use this figure as a custom rig for the new program FaceRig. In order to do that, I need a 3D model with specially labeled joints. My question is, is there a program somewhere out on the internet that can take a LEGO model, or LEGOCAD file, or some other form of LEGO input, and produce a 3D model articulated the way the real-life version would be? I know there are programs out there that can convert 3D models to LEGO replicas, for those who are into sculpture builds, but precisely because there are so many articles and questions about those programs, I can't find what I'm actually after, which is the inverse. Anyone know of anything like this?

Hmm - what you're after within the 3D app is typically called rigging, and uses bones which you can usually lock to constraints for their motion. It's a reasonably advanced topic, but the Character Animation Tools plugin within 3ds Max for example can automate the process of rigging a model - Rigify in blender may also help.

@Zhaph Well, part of the problem with a normal rigging method is that I want to keep the pieces from deforming the way a natural joint would, and if I started with a static 3D scan of my LEGO model I would have to pull the pieces apart at each joint first to make sure the rigging system won't twist them up. Due to the sheer complexity of the model in question, it would be much easier to simply use a program that does this automatically for an existing LEGO model.

Could you rebuild the model using LDD?  If so, then there are a number of programs out there that will take that and convert it to a .obj or something (LeoCAD and LDraw are two), which can then be read using a 3D program of choice (Blender is a free one).  I don't know exactly how FaceRig works, but you can create bones in Blender that move around the individual parts of your model by weight painting.


text:
Are Bandai "Figmes" compatible with LEGO?
According to gizmodo Bandai is releasing a new line of "Figmes" that look astounding similar to our beloved minifigs.  Here is the set:

And here is one close up:

Close up the hands look even better, but the legs look a little mushy.
So:

Does anybody have an early "Figme" or do we have to wait for March?
Can you test it with genuine LEGO for fit?
Can we get a side-by-side picture with a legit minifig?
What do the bottoms and backs look like?

From https://www.reddit.com/r/dbz/comments/4c7jmb/lego_like_official_dbz_bandai_figme_cant_find/? it sounds like these are only available in Japan and they lack the holes in the back of the legs.

Judging by the layout, it would probably fit with normal Lego sets and bricks, because the same goes with mega block figures. Although they won't fit in closed spaces where there is only a 1 x 1 space, in general, if you have space, they will fit. Also, with those legs being just about the same as those of Lego minifigs, they would probably fit right in. Another question that might show up is, do you know if there are slots in the back of their legs so they can sit? The layout is the same, I guess, but everybody LOVES minifigs that can sit and actually stay there (in this case, mega block figs can't stay), right? Just kidding, not everybody does, but are there holes in the back of the legs?

These minifigures would definitely fit with lego, just like other companies, such as mega bloks and kreo. As Chicks stated though, they may not be able to sit down. Also, as a warning, these minifigures have very poor paint.

authors: Николай Елисеев


text:
Wiring and Controlling an 88004 servo from a RaspberryPI
My 88004 servo does not move at all. Don't know how I should connect the wires correctly.
I think the inner two cables are C1 and C2 and the outer two GND and VCC.
When I connect 6.5V to the outer two cables the breadboard connector cables smoke up. I connected one GPIO from the RaspberryPI with a PWM frequency of 1200Hz to C1 and kept C2 at GND but nothing happened.
I found a video on youtube with a wiring diagram for an Arduino to 88004 but there is also GND and VCC connected with outer cables.
I orientated my Code like from the page How to control a 88004 Servo Motor with a Raspberry Pi?
Nothing happened with this Code (but I think the problem is my wiring):
import RPi.GPIO as GPIO

GPIO.setmode(GPIO.BCM)

GPIO.setup(12, GPIO.OUT)
GPIO.setup(16, GPIO.OUT)

Left = GPIO.PWM(12, 1200)
Right = GPIO.PWM(16, 1200)

Left.stop()
Right.stop()

Left.start(100)

Can you post a schematic of your setup? Smoking breadboard connectors is not a good thing - and, 6.5V shouldn't cause any smoking unless you are pushing excessive Amps through the wires. Also, check http://philohome.com/pf/pf.htm for all the wiring details regarding LEGO PowerFunctions motors - for the servo you need both GND+VCC as well as C1 and C2. The motor won't move if you only use C1 and C2.

My setup: RPi #16 - C1, RPi #12 - C2, 6.5V - VCC + GND

so you have VCC connected to 6.5V and GND to the GND of the same 6.5V source? You will also need to connect GND to the RPi GND, otherwise there is no common reference between the VCC and the C1/C2 pins. Finally - the motor was made to run with 9V DC - it would be best if you tried a 9V source first.

ok thank you now it works. there were two faults... i tried 12V and now the servo turns around. and i inverted the GND and VCC of the servo -> no smoke anymore.

I've converted my comments to an answer.

Smoking breadboard connectors are never a good thing - so check your wiring to make sure all is connected well. Also, make sure that you have the GND of your powersource connected to the GND of the RPi, so that all voltages are relative to the same ground potential. Finally, I'm not sure if the Servo will work with 6.5V - it has been designed to work on 9V. A different powersource might give better results.

authors: Дмитрий Воронов


text:
Looking for Adult LEGO

Possible duplicate of:
Are there LEGO sets designed for adults?

The pieces are smaller for higher resolution, the colors are not primary and there are more of them.
Does this exist? I had in mind the standard 4 by 2 brick becomes 8 bricks each with 4 by 2 pegs.

The "possible duplicate" explicitly excludes LEGO Architecture while this question is open-ended.

you might also want to check out the Technic line of LEGOs which are more challenging than the typical brick-focused sets you are probably familiar with.

Yes. LEGO® may still be a toy, but it clearly a toy for all ages.  Here are two examples:
LEGO Architecture
LEGO Architecture is clearly aimed at adults.

From one of LEGO's press releases:

With models developed in collaboration with architects, LEGO Architecture inspires future architects, engineers and designers as well as architecture fans around the world using the LEGO brick as a medium for reproducing esteemed structures. Fans of all ages can collect and construct iconic architectural sites, including: Frank Lloyd Wright’s Guggenheim Museum and Fallingwater, the Space Needle in Seattle, the Willis Tower and John Hancock Center in Chicago, New York’s Empire State Building and Rockefeller Center, The White House in Washington, D.C., Farnsworth House in Plano, Illinois and the Burj Kalifa in Dubai. Each LEGO Architecture set contains a booklet featuring step-by-step building instructions that is prefaced by exclusive, archival history, information and photographs of each iconic building, its design origin, its architect and its architectural features.

I'm sure there are some young architects out there, but this level of depth is more typical of adults.

Serious Play
LEGO has also a corporate-focused play for adults called LEGO® SERIOUS PLAY®

Build a better workshop with the LEGO® SERIOUS PLAY® program!
The LEGO® SERIOUS PLAY® program is a radical and innovative process designed to enhance business performance through building with LEGO bricks.

I like the reference to LEGO Architecture (didn't include it in my answer as it was IMHO already mentioned in the other post), however, it doesn't meet the "The pieces are smaller for higher resolution, the colors are not primary and there are more of them." criteria (you could argue if tan and white are not primary, but the "there are more of them" clearly indicates the OP wants to have many more colors/shades of a given color).

I am happy to admit that I ignored the color part of the question and focused more on the adult aspect.  IMHO LEGO has done great on embracing color diversity and there is a vibrant market for pieces in all colors.  It would be great to see more sets aimed at AFOL, but the LEGO Architecture series is the closest thing to that that I know of.

I am in full agreement with the last part of your statement.

Wait, what? Are those Duplo bricks in the lego "serious play" pile? And how is a minifig-sized motorcycle helmet supposed to be serious? Maybe I have no idea what i'm talking about...

@mindstormsboi Quick Google search will reveal what "LEGO Serious Play" is all about.

LEGO has recently released a number of sets in LEGO Art series. Each set is designed to create an image which consist of multiple of tiny 1x1 round plates or 1x1 tiles and has plenty of extra parts to create one of several alternative images.
Example with Andy Warhol's Marilyn Monroe (31197)

Included pieces seen above allow you to make one of 4 iconic images:

Same goes with Star Wars The Sith (31200)

Three copies of this set allows you to create another much larger version:

As you indicate yourself, the best answers regarding your question and current LEGO are already given in the other post. If you are not restricted by "current LEGO", I know of two more options:

You might want to look at Nanoblocks which, while still a children's toy, has smaller bricks and a different color pallette. I don't know much about the quality of Nanoblocks - the plastic does seem cheaper than LEGO's.

Another option is to look at Modulex, but you cannot find new sets as this line of LEGO bricks was only produced briefly from 1963 to 1965**. It was designed for adults (more specifically: for architects) as a system to build models of existing and planned buildings. Bricks are smaller, and have a different geometry (1:1 vs 5:6 for LEGO). Buying Modulex is expensive due to the limited production run and the fact that the last Modulex was produced 50 years ago. Bricklink does have Modulex items available for sale though, so you might find this something worth investigating further. There is a (not really updated) website for Modulex fans at MiniBricksMadness.

(source: minibricksmadness.com)

**) Modulex continued to be produced until the early 1980s in limited quantities by Modulex A/S, as per this article(PDF)

Nanoblocks are nowhere as good as LEGO. Clutch power is pretty weak and any piece bigger than 1x1 allows pieces under it to slide around.

Pixelblocks also fit your theme.

I would think that the best way for adults to embrace LEGO (if you know basic coding) would to get into the Mindstorms and maybe build complex moving structures.

Doing LEGO robotics or automation is definitely an interesting area for AFOLs.  The LEGO instructions are laid out so well I'm not sure that knowing coding is a prerequisite.

You could take a look at other non-LEGO brands targeting AFOLs. These can be more affordable, but also may be of a different quality.


text:
How to help a yellowed brick with a sticker?
My parents recently finally decided they can return me my childhood toys with 1990s Technic sets including the 8880 Super Car. All other sets were in boxes, but this one spent the last 15+ years assembled in a clean attic, so it's dusty and yellowed, but surprisingly, complete (I disassembled it with the instructions in hand). I haven't yet decided if I should keep or sell it, but I need to clean it.
Question:
This piece.

I've read about bleaching LEGO bricks with hydrogen peroxide and about removing labels for repair. Do you think it's a good idea to remove the labels and then bleach the brick? Or is there some other, better way of helping this guy?

My concern about removing the sticker would be getting it back on again.

I've done this a few times before. To remove the sticker, get a hair dryer and gently warm it up - this will slightly melt the glue make it easier to get off. The trick now is to lift it without damaging it. I bought some incredibly thin, and sharp blades for a craft knife... they are thin enough to make their way between the sticker and the plastic and practically slide straight under. This will lift the sticker clean off. Depending on the age of the sticker you might need a bit of extra glue to help reattach it (also you may need to warm it back up to help the glue bond again)
Just take care :)

I think that the best thing to do would be to keep everything as it was because in selling, even if it is damaged, the ORIGINAL product will usually sell for more than a restored product. this also means keeping the stickers on.
I actually did an experiment my self with this and i found these results. If you are keeping it for yourself then i would do whatever you need it for. If you are going to bleach it then cover and water-proof seal of the stickers and only then bleach it. That is what I would do.

You do not need to remove your sticker to bring it back to full color. Just follow this process. Get a 3% hydrogen poroxide solution and a small glass. Pour the solution in and your piece and set it in the sun for 4 to 5 days, making sure the piece stays all the way in the solution. That should work.


text:
Any elements that can be connected to the cavity under a stud?
Are there any elements that can be connected to the 'cavity' (i.e. the space) under a stud (e.g. on a regular plate or a regular brick)? The cavity measures about 2.4mm in diameter.
So far I've only tried a minifig hand peg (not the clip side, the other side) but unfortunately it is just a bit smaller, it has a diameter of about 2.3mm.
[Edit] I'm talking about the cylindrical cavity with a diameter of 1.5 LU as indicated in the overview posted here -- What are the dimensions of a LEGO brick?.

If I'm understanding you correctly, you're talking about the molding cavity directly underneath the stud (that actually goes up into the stud), and not the main tube cavities under plates/bricks (that are actually offset from the studs).
If that's the case, no, I'm not aware of any element that "intentionally" fits that space.
First off, I don't think that space is made with a high tolerance.  Looking at some of my bricks, the dimensions of that cavity are not nearly as uniform as the other features of the brick.
Secondly, I don't know how many System bricks have components that are not integer multiples of LUs.
You might get lucky and get a minifigure piece that has a detail that is 1.5 LUs, but you'd have to try a lot of them.

Your interpretation is correct :). Hmm, the part about the tolerance is interesting. I was hoping to fit a "Hand Pirate Hook" in the cavity, sounds like there's still some hope.

Without further specification, unless I read your question wrong, ANY normal brick-type element can be connected to the cavity under a stud - the whole principle that LEGO was based on, basically. Anything that has a stud on it will fit.
If you rather meant "non-stud" elements such as hands, signs, rods, etc., please update the question to make it more specific.

Updated the question.

(Edit: after re-reading your question I realized I misinterpreted the stud with the bar. Leaving the answer for posterity.)
There is. The size in the small holes beneath newer plates is the same size as a connector that doesn't have a fixed name. Bricklink calls it pin, others call it mini pin or stub. It is used in minifig headgears and a few other places, like the old dragon flame. It's not a connection people often use, but it can be done:

This picture is taken from a small writeup by Brian D'Agostine which documents other uses of it. You can also use the same pin (stub, mini pin, teensy tiny peg) to create fire strands:

Once you're aware of the connection you can find many fun fits for it.

For base plates you can connect the light sabre pieces underneath the base plate but I don't think it was an intentional feature


text:
Is there a free EV3 simulator (virtual machine) for the Mac OS?
I recently saw this question on a virtual EV3 machine. From the video, I felt that this software will be great. However, I don't have the budget needed to buy a licence. Is there any alternative to this system?

You could try TRIKstudio: https://trikset.com/en/products/trik-studio
This allows you to program a robot based on the LEGO EV3 setup, however while the application itself has English, French and Russian translations, most of the online help is only in Russian.

Can you please expand this answer a little. Have you used the software? How well does it work? Any limitations?

I have used the software, but for other uses. As far as I know, you can program in it, and then debug it in 2D mode.

If you are looking for free software, you can use the now abandoned Microsoft Robotics Studio. It has a virtual robot simulator. The project was shut down around the same time the EV3 was released, so I doubt that there is a virtual EV3. There is a virtual NXT though. And it is possible to create your own virtual robot models if you are willing to put a massive amount of time into it.
Also, this is Windows, software, so you will need Parallels or a VM to run on Mac.

Is this what you're looking for? Actually, this might be closer.
NOTE: The latter is only compatible with iphone/ipad, but it might be closer...Other than that, I'm not sure.


text:
After adding a MyBlock icon to the EV3 palette of MyBlock icons, how can the new icon be associated to an existing MyBlock?
After following the advice given in adding a MyBlock icon to the EV3 palette, can the icon be associated to an existing MyBlock?
Something better than copy/paste the contents of the existing MyBlock into a new MyBlock.

follow this: http://bricks.stackexchange.com/questions/4622/is-it-possible-to-edit-a-my-block-input-parameter-value/4689#4689

As mentioned in this answer, since v1.3.0, it is possible to edit my blocks.


text:
Is it possible to create your own wheel?
After my other question, i pretty much have a bicycle design all planned. My problem now is with wheels.
None of my LEGO wheels are big enough to work on a bike. And, the biggest ones are all pretty fat.
I was wondering if it would be possible to simulate my own wheels, that i could then attach to a LEGO creation.
It doesn't have to be made out of only LEGOs; i'm open to other building toys and materials as well.

You can always brick-build a wheel.  The curved slope pieces can closely approximate a circle.
For example, 12 4x1 curved slopes gives a circle with a radius of 160 LDUs (8 studs).
For more information on brick-built wheels, I suggest you refer to the "Brick Built LEGO Wheels Book":

http://www.ultimate-design.org/2014/05/unofficial-free-brick-built-lego-wheels.html


text:
How to restore old, scratched plates
I have some old lego plates that are quite scratched. They look rather dull compared to the newer pieces in my collection. Is there any way to restore (even partially) the shiny look between the studs?
I'd heard that using toothpaste can help smooth out transparent pieces, so I tried putting toothpaste on the plate. However, it seemed like it would be insane to try to rub the paste manually between all the studs... so I used a nylon brush to brush the plate. That didn't seem to help much, but didn't make it any worse. Would it have worked if I'd manually rubbed the paste in? Is there a faster way of doing that?

Brasso (yes, the metal polish) works better than toothpaste in this case. It is a bit more grainy so works faster but doesn't damage the parts. It does take some work though that may or may not make sense depending on the rarity of the elements.
And yes, with either toothpaste or Brasso, you actually have to vigorously rub the surface to buff it up. It might be easier and cheaper just to replace the worn parts with new ones if they really bother you.
LEGO getting scratched up a bit is normal. In most colors you won't even notice it, but there are certain colors where scratches are more visible — with black being the worst. So it actually helps to store black parts stuck together to prevent rubbing against each other in storage.


text:
Why do official LEGO PDF instruction books have such poor quality?
More often than not, my boys are working from PDF instructions downloaded at the LEGO site. The quality of those PDFs is poor. I'm sure you've experienced the jagged, pixelated lines and the bricks so dark you have to figure out the size through a process of deduction.
I'm familiar with the sites that offer user submitted scans, and occasionally we find what we need at one of them, but why is it even necessary? Is it a case of LEGO wanting to leave some motivation to pick up the actual sets with the actual instruction booklet? Is it something far less calculated than that, maybe just a legacy process for generating the PDFs that needs to be updated?
I'd be grateful for any insight!

I'm going to guess a combination of poor-quality inputs (a common complaint about printed booklets is black/dark grey/light grey confusion), and a poor process for turning print artwork into PDFs (I suspect they use the default settings instead of forcing PNG/GIF instead of JPEG). Really they should use cbr format direct from CAD instead since that's actually designed for pages of line art.

Indeed, but more people probably have a PDF reader installed than a CBR reader - and typically a .CBR file is significantly larger than the equivalent comic in PDF form ;)

Mσᶎ' comment has dealt with the technical reasons quite eloquently, and I'd guess Mσᶎ' analysis is likely correct.
However, I suggest that we can dig a little deeper to guess why the process hasn't been fixed.
Disclaimer: the following is pure speculation. I don't work for TLG (I wish!) and have no special knowledge or insight into the company or its policies.
A Revealing Question
In my mind, the important question is why the instructions are published as PDFs at all? Whilst LEGO is a passion for the fans, it is also a business. The PDF instructions are provided as a free service to TLG customers: they receive no direct financial benefit from the publication of their instruction books.
So, why do they bother? Presumably for indirect business benefits. Things like:

The hope that customers will buy bricks / sets to make up sets they don't own
Easier to deal with customer enquiries regarding lost instructions
Customer good will

Costs and Benefits
Assuming this is the case, we can speculate that TLG have not invested in better PDF instructions because they don't consider the additional benefits will be covered by the cost of improving the quality.

Do many people really purchase bricks based on these instructions? I doubt it.
The poor quality PDF instructions are probably good enough for customer enquiry purposes, or at least TLG may perceive that it is.
TLG may perceive that customers in general don't care about the instructions quality - the few of us who do may not provide sufficient incentive to improve things.

The bottom line is that these instructions are provided on a goodwill basis. Unless TLG receive incentive to improve them, they probably won't.
A Call to Action
So, if you really care about the instructions, what can you do?
I suggest that it might be worth contacting TLG's customer services. If they get enough complaints, they may consider making improvements. Alternatively, they may consider it worthwhile providing a paid service for obtaining better quality copies of instructions.

Another cost consideration: Better quality PDFs (or other formats) would require more storage and bandwidth  - which would also impact customer download times, etc.


text:
Where can I download the EV3 education edition software for free?
I have a site license but I'm not able to find the download for the software anywhere. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

I think it's strange how this guy asks a question and then never comes back to check for three years. But FYI, you should see the download somewhere here: https://education.lego.com/en-us/downloads/mindstorms-ev3/software

According to an education Community Manager you should have received a link when you purchased the licence.
If you didn't receive one you should contact your reseller - it depends on which region you are in as to whether logging in to the LEGO education site would enable a direct link for you.

The software for the LEGO Education version of the EV3 needs a license (either a single license or a site license). AFAIK, all EV3 Education purchases come with a Software License, which also includes instructions on where to download the software.
There is nothing preventing you from using the retail (non-Education) version of the software though, which is a free download from http://www.lego.com/en-us/mindstorms/downloads/download-software. It might prompt you to update the firmware on your EV3 to the "Home" version (currently v1.09H) but you can always switch back to the "Education" version (currently v1.09E).

Yep, looks like they've changed the sales model since this was last asked - as the UK Education shop now offers sets with Software, as either a "1 set" or in multiples for 2, 8, 16 or 30 pupils - there doesn't seem to be distinction between single or site licenses any more - possibly due to the tablet based tooling.

https://education.lego.com/en-us/support
You have to be logged in with your credentials, then click the download button.

As of January 1, 2016 you no longer have to have an activation key to download the software. Source: https://www.facebook.com/groups/legomindstorms/permalink/578017979013099/

You can download the Education Edition for the LEGO Mindstorms EV3 here (footer of the page). It is available for free.
You only need a valid LEGO ID for a login. If you haven't a LEGO ID you can create one on the linked page.

Please try this link and choose the software you want
http://www.lego.com/en-us/mindstorms/downloads/software/ddsoftwaredownload/

Hi Calin - that's the "home edition" unfortunately, which doesn't have the data logging and other capabilities of the Education edition.

If not yet had a license: Try download at this site but it will cost you RM2120 (if you're rich)...: http://lego.sasbadi.com/product-details.php?id=46&type=robotics&iframe=true&width=900&height=510
If already bought: Just follow the link at the license and enter the codes!(might need to make an account for the web)

Is it an official reseller?


text:
Which bricks warrant an extra to be included in a set?
I know why there are extra pieces in the sets, but I'm curious to find out which pieces will typically have an extra.
I know that usually 1x1 plates (both square and round) will have an extra included in the set, as well as cheese wedges. But I was surprised to find an extra double cheese wedge included once (I don't remember which set it was, but no, it wasn't a piece I overlooked in the building instructions). I have other sets with double cheese wedges that didn't have an extra, so I wonder:
Is there a list of pieces that will usually come with an extra?
Are there other criteria used to determine whether a piece will have an extra?

The inventory of parts provided for sets on Bricklink show which parts are considered extra. It might be possible to calculate which extra parts are the most common across the database of sets.

It's highly variable. I've had some sets with some of the smaller piece and ZERO spares. On the other extreme, the 2013 Star Wars advent calendar had up to THREE spares of the usual pieces and even bigger than usual (cups, beards) pieces, bringing the total number of pieces to nearly 150% of the number stated on the box.

Back in the day, it was because some of the pieces such as 1x1 round plates or flower petals came still attached to the sprues -- 1x1 round plates would always come as a multiple of two, while flowers would come as a multiple of four.

@Mark you're right! I had totally forgotten.

The ones that come with extras are almost always the smallest pieces in the kit that would be easy to lose and are negligible in weight.
From gizmodo article of LEGO FAQs:

Why did I always have pieces left over when I built my castle sets? Do they just do that to jack with kids?
For two reasons: first, because some pieces are so small that they weigh too little to be measured by their scale, during packaging (you will see this when I publish the factory tour. J.) Second, because it's better to have too many of those pieces than have one of them missing. Since we statistically know what pieces may get lost, we include some extras when appropriate.

thank you Zhaph-Ben for the edit. I couldn't figure out how to make the nice quotation box on the android app editor.

PS: the url of that FAQ is http://lego.gizmodo.com/5019797/everything-you-always-wanted-to-know-about-lego

It's all about knowing the markdown which still works in the app ;) But yes, it's certainly more bare metal when you're in the app.


text:
Is the NXT forward compatible with EV3 sensors and motors?
Is it possible to use EV3 sensors and motors with the NXT intelligent brick? I've read that the EV3 is backward compatible with NXT motors and sensors, but does vice versa work as well? Is the NXT forward compatible with EV3 sensors and motors?

5 months late but... I would argue that this is not a duplicate since the question linked to asks about the EV3 being backward compatible with NXT sensors and motors, whereas this question is vice versa; it asks about the NXT having forward compatibility with the EV3 sensors and motors, which is addressed in neither the linked question nor its answers. I went ahead and edited the question to be more clear, as well as nominated this for re-opening.

Short answer: you can use EV3 motors with NXT, but you can't use EV3 sensors on NXT. NXT sensors and motors work with EV3.
Detailed answer: read Laurens Valk paper.

The NXT works fine with EV3 motors, and will read them as NXT motors. EV3 sensors, on the other hand, do not natively work with the NXT, with the exception of the touch sensor.
The reason for this is that, touch sensor notwithstanding, EV3 sensors use a hardware communication protocol called UART, which is not supported by the NXT. The NXT only supports analog and digital I2C. The EV3 touch sensor works with the NXT because it's an analog sensor, unlike the other EV3 sensors.
That being said, it is possible to make EV3 sensors work with the NXT via an EV3 sensor adapter:

An adapter is required for each sensor port used. Unfortunately, it's not currently supported in NXT-G; just in NXC and EV3-G.


text:
Can I use the NXT 2.0 programming software with my educational set?
I have bought the 9797 NXT base educational set. It didn't include any software.
I know that I can freely download the NXT 2.0 software (which was included in the 8784 retail set). Is it possible to use this version of the software with my education set?

Yes, you can - I have done so on numerous occasions, and actually prefer to use the retail software over the education version even when working with the education kit.
The NXT bricks in the two sets are exactly identical. You might need to update the NXT's firmware before using the brick with the retail software, however.

Yes, I do this with mine because the consumer version of the software has more features than the education (but no datalog and you won't have the pieces for the building instructions that come in the software in your kit)


text:
How can I preserve opened Lego packages?
For some reason I keep my old Lego boxes (since the 1980s), and my son's old Lego packages. Because they are quite large, they take up a lot of space in my house, even if they are put one into another. I suppose I am not the only one (see this comment) who keeps them.
I actually don't know why I store them — maybe some psychological issue — but how can I effectively store old packages? And those of you who keep old boxes, do you ever display them, or browse them? Or do you just keep them?

@Ambo100: I don't think this is a duplicate question. The referenced question asked how to best store new unopened boxes to preserve their value, while this one asks how to store already opened boxes. Perhaps the title can be rephrased to better reflect the difference.

Well I used to keep mine as well. One thing I found very good was to take a razor or a box cutter and cut the front and backs off! this may seem obvious or defeat the purpose, but it made them easier to store. I would stack them all and slip them on a shelf or under my bed to keep them flat. This proved to be a very effective solution. Also, you could try to collapse them at the ends to have them take up less room as well.

When I was young my mother used the technique of cutting out the front and back and thus preserving the various ideas that the photographs of the set provided.  She stuck the box bits into a large craft book and it was stored on the bookshelf; it was handy to get to and flip through.  Don't do this; don't go cutting the front and the back off.  Whilst most of the interesting information is only on the front and back, the economic value of the box is destroyed when you cut it up like this.
If you want to resell the LEGO as a set later, having the original box greatly increases the value of the set.  The boxes for certain Technic sets can achieve values of $50 or $100 - just for the box.
The best way to preserve a LEGO box without it taking its full volume is to use a box cutter to cut the glue that holds the flaps onto the sides.  This preserves every visible surface of the box and allows you to reassemble/re-glue it at some point in the future. Cut down like this the box takes up a fraction of its original size, and can be stored in an out-of-the-way place like an attic or on top of large shelving (be aware that a box cut down like this can be surprisingly large and unwieldy).  Don't stack too many boxes atop each other like this - cardboard is both heavy and floppy, and searching through a substantial stack may require more strength/space than you have available.

Well there is two ways the easy way to throw them into a bucket or you can first separate them into groups either by size,color,set,etc. than put each group of separated LEGO bricks in some sort of container such as a bucket box or back. I think that a bucket is the best idea because it is more safe and can be put anywhere of size

I was asking about packages (boxes), not bricks


text:
Are all stickers on a sheet used or do you sometimes have spare? Dino HQ set 5887
I built Dino set 5887 recently, but the sticker sheet contains one extra sticker: one of the 'D' things, the pentagram one. One went on one of the walls, the other two round 'D's went on the chopper. I went through the instruction manuals 17 times to find it but for the life of me, I cannot.
Is it correct that I have one spare sticker on this one?

You occasionally get "extra" stickers, especially in the Police sub-theme of City, where the sheets have both "Police" and "Polizei" variations:

Police Plane Sticker Sheet on Peeron

That's definitely an extra. I checked the instructions to confirm this.
I can't comment on how common spare stickers are, as I don't personally apply the stickers in general.

Although I have never seen an extra sticker in another set, you are correct in that this set does have an extra "D" pentagon sticker.


text:
Useful machines built with LEGO
I am looking for examples of useful machines built with LEGO (probably Technics, NXT etc.). There are many fun project examples and proofs of concept, such as a Rubik cube solver and a Turing machine.
Do you know any examples of LEGO machines that simplify some actual task or where should I look for examples?

There are two brilliant brick sorters built by akiyuky, one for standard bricks, and another for Technic axles.

Here are some examples that caught my attention in the last years:

Cambridge scientists are using LEGO Mindstorms in their lab instead of a professional robot, saving them large amounts of money.
The Kno tablet development team is using a LEGO rig to perform automated stress tests on their devices.
University of Southhampton is using LEGO bricks as the structural frame for a cheaper supercomputer (warning: they use the word legos).
Building custom encasing for electronics like this monster three-motherboard PC.
For automatic milling and sculpting, there are also plenty of examples of LEGO CNC machines. They can be used to prototype parts, make molds, etc. Here's one.
A loom machine to produce usable weaved cloths — pictures, video.
Pheromone Labs is using LEGO Mindstorms 2.0 to perform automated tests of a tablet app — link, video.
Low-cost nanoscope at UCL (news, main page)
Handling insect specimens (link)
UV-Vis spectrometer (Link)
Braille Printer (Link)

It depends a lot how you distinguish useful from proof of concept.

I think this clock could be useful (or at least be fun): http://tiltedtwister.com/. The website even provides building instructions. However it will be noisy, expensive and take a lot of time (and fun) to build, which will make it less useful for a lot of people.
There's a super computer rack for 64 Raspberry Pis built from lego: http://www.southampton.ac.uk/~sjc/raspberrypi
I'm using only 4 bricks as additional feets for my keyboard, everyday at work. So this is probably the most useful thing I can think of. Things do not have to be rocket science to be useful.

+1! Had to catch my armchair tightly to not to fall down laughing! :] Your four-brick-keyboard-supporter certainly deserves Nobel Price or at least ten +1!

Lego Antikythera Mechanism can be seen at http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RLPVCJjTNgk
The Antikythera Mechanism: http://bit.ly/fm4oFK is the oldest known scientific computer, built in Greece at around 100 BCE. Lost for 2000 years, it was recovered from a shipwreck in 1901. But not until a century later was its purpose understood: an astronomical clock that determines the positions of celestial bodies with extraordinary precision.

In 2010, we built a fully-functional replica out of Lego.

I once built an NXT robot that opened and closed a set of blinds.
The blinds had a rod that you could spin to open and close them, and the rod had a hole at the end, which made it pretty easy to hook up to a mindstorms motor.
I made two different versions.  One version was a "clapper" - with a microphone sensor, and one was a smarter version, that used a light sensor.  The light sensor was positioned on the outside of the blinds.  When the sun came up, it would open the blinds, and when the sun went down, it would close them.
I could have combined them together - in fact, I was planning to do that - but then I decided to use the NXT unit for some other projects instead.

It depends how you define machine.
I've used a static rig as a phone holder on a desk.
I've built small tools for pushing Lego pins out when constructing Lego models. I've built innumerable machines for demonstrating principles of physics, engineering and structure.
If someone has dominoes as a hobby, then there is a Lego domino setting machine - http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=de4xdOVVROQ.
I've seen an NXT being used to tidy Lego bricks - although that may have been more proof of concept as it could only cope with bricks below a certain size, it would use a rotor to sweep the bricks (And anything else) into a rear hopper.
I've also seen brick sorters - for those who like to color sort their Lego (I used to do this) these can be handy.

Well this all sounds like toy examples. The machines for demonstrating principles of physics, engineering and structure come closest. There should be online video tutorials for learning with Lego :-)

I've also build a small stand to hold my phone securely in the dashboard of my car when I'm using it as navigation aid, so I wouldn't underestimate the adaptability of LEGO for similar jobs. At the other end of the range, there's even been a full desk - not a machine, but fully functional.

I've seen pinball machines too. The thing is - if such things are somebodies passion - then stuff that assists in them could arguably be "Useful machines".


text:
When was the first official use of the term 'minifigure' or 'minifig'?
When did The LEGO Group first use the term minifigure? Have they been called that since their introduction in 1978?
Similar to this question:
Why are they called "minifigs"?

"PEOPLE" in a 1979 brochure http://www.peeron.com/catalogs/1979/medium/12/?id=96

I kept searching and found out for myself :). The US magazine from 1979 calls them Mini-Figures, even the version without arms.
http://www.peeron.com/catalogs/1979/medium/6/?id=97
http://www.peeron.com/catalogs/1979/medium/10/?id=97

Technically, this 1979 catalog use refers to Mini-Figure, which is slightly different to ‘Minifigure’ which the LEGO group would consider to be the official trademarked term.

Funny then, that the 1979 catalog as the TM trademark symbol right next to Mini-Figure ;)

If I knew how to freely search for trademarks to see when it was originally filed, I would, but AFAICT it costs $$$! :)


text:
What's the exact opacity and translucency of transparent bricks?
As answered in this question, transparent bricks are made of PC (polycarbonate) and as listed in this answer and on Brickipedia there are fourteen transparent colors:
40  Transparent (clear)
41  Transparent Red
42  Transparent Light Blue
43  Transparent Blue
44  Transparent Yellow
47  Transparent Fluorescent Reddish-Orange (Transparent Dark Orange)
48  Transparent Green
49  Transparent Fluorescent Green (Transparent Neon Green)
111 Transparent Brown (Smoke)
113 Transparent Medium Reddish-Violet
126 Transparent Bright Bluish-Violet
143 Transparent Fluorescent Blue
182 Transparent Bright Orange
311 Transparent Bright Green

I am interested in the exact optical properties Transparency and translucency of this colors. How much percentage of light is absorbed? Has anyone measured with a prism which wavelength gets filtered out for each color?
P.S.: Why do I want to know? I want to put different kinds of LEDs in transparent bricks and like to know how the light is influenced. There are LEDs in different colours (light temperature) and one can calculate the luminosity at specific voltage and current. I'd like to calculate the luminosity as modified by the polycarbonate which the LEDs are put into.

If the question is 'How would you measure this?', you would probably be able to get some help from Physics.SE. I would assume you would need a fairly sensitive light sensor to detect the differences in reflected light.

Do you want an homemade method for doing this at home?

@jakob Any more info you could give us?  If you answer the questions from Ambo100 and I we could move forward with this question.

I don't want to measure this but I'd like to have some numbers, charts, technical specifications etc. to know how light from specific LEDs would be changed.

There are more transparent colours than what's posted in this question. The optical characteristics vary a lot between parts. It depends on the age of the part, its condition, and what kind of part it is. Also the parts are not manufactured to precise optical characteristics, so any two batches of parts of the "same" colour might have different properties. I'm not sure you can get a crib sheet for this, you'd be better off just experimenting with the bricks you get.


text:
Getting the IR Tower working with RCX and RobotC

Possible Duplicate:
Lego Mindstorms RCX RIS 2.0 IR tower Windows 7 / Windows XP driver

Trying to get RobotC to work with my old RCX 2.0. I'm running windows 7 64 bit. I've connected the IR tower via a Serial to USB cable. I get the error from RobotC when I go to send the firmware "RCX Controler Failed to Respond"
I'm assuming this is because the drivers are for 64 bit only. Has anyone had success running a WindowsXP virtual machine and trying the drivers? Or any luck getting RobotC and the IR tower running on a Win7 64 bit machine.

Please see this question: Lego Mindstorms RCX RIS 2.0 IR tower Windows 7 / Windows XP driver
Basically there are no 64bit drivers available and the OP on the question I linked to says he had no luck with an XP VM either.


text:
How Can I paint my LEGO Bricks?

Possible Duplicate:
How do I change the color of a brick?

Is there a way that I can paint a white LEGO brick?  I would prefer paints that will not come off easily.

Rather similar to our first ever question: How do I change the color of a brick

Years ago for one of my projects. I used some acrylic paint to match something with the rest of the building. It can be done. But removing the paint is going to be a pain in the tail feathers. The parts never did look right after that. So I advise against it.


text:
What disinfectant can I use on used LEGO parts?

Possible Duplicate:
LEGO cleaning techniques and tools

I usually purchase LEGO parts at yard sales and the like and would like to disinfect them before using them.  Can I use any spray disinfectant on parts without ruining them?  Should I be wary of any disinfectants that would cause LEGO parts to fade in color?

Hi Ivan, if you take a look at my answer to the linked question, you'll see that The LEGO Group recommend using a Mild Bleach for disinfecting your bricks.

Soaking the parts in a 50/50 mix of warm water and white vinegar works as well - it cleans, removes odors and disinfects without leaving any residue.

In the past I have used dish soap and a basin and just soaked them in hot soapy water for a while. I then learned that MegaBlocks float while LEGO sink.


text:
What is the best way to preserve a LEGO model after it has been built?

Possible Duplicates:
How can I store LEGO bricks as long as possible?
How do you store your built models for long term display?

I want to preserve my sons LEGO ships after they are built. Is there anything out there to apply as a coating after he is done building it?

It's not necessary, nor is it a particular good idea to apply coating to your LEGO bricks.

If you want to consider a permanent construction, take a look at: What glue should I use for permanent LEGO construction?, otherwise as Ambo100 states, take a look at the storage questions.

You could invest in a nice shelving system to place completed ships for display - that seems like a better method than gluing or coating them.

I disagree with the duplication.  The dupe is talking about unassembled bricks, and this question is clearly talking about completed models.

@DaveDelong I think we can all agree that as it's written this question is a bit ambiguous; it could also have been marked as a duplicate of: How do you store your built models for long term display?

@DaveDeLong If the question is rephrased to be less ambiguous and less like either of the questions in the "Linked" list, I'll be happy to reopen and clear down these comments :)

authors: Γιώργος Φιωτάκης


text:
Can you use four movement bricks on one NXT?

Possible Duplicate:
How can I use more than three motors with one NXT brick?

I want to make a tank out but it needs 4 movement bricks but I only have one NXT. Here are the parts:

It can move and that takes up two motion bricks so it can turn, move forwards and backwards.
It uses one movement brick for the gun.
it uses one movement brick because it will have a hatch that can open so that it can collect the balls that it has already shot so I don't need to get them manually.

You might want to check out the question How can I use more than three motors with one NXT brick.


text:
Where can I find LEGO X-Pod Playoff rules and printoffs?
Where can I find X-Pod Playoff rules? LEGO doesn't seem to be hosting them anymore.
Asked because of this question. Hopefully it can be mirrored on a few sites so that it doesn't disappear again.

Here are the PDFs donated by Friend Of George. Here are the unit catalog PDFs.
The starter kit for each pod has an inventory list, a set of cards containing units which can be built, and a set of X-TRA cards.  The cards and inventory list can be printed on card stock for better durability.
The Advanced Rules contain additional rules and Advanced X-TRA cards for the game.
The Advanced Strategy Guide contains some tips on how to best choose and use your units, along with movement and placement strategies.  It also gives sample sets of units and strategies for each Pod against each of the other Pods.
The boards were generated from the website with no obstacles for maximum flexibility.  Bricks should be used for these and placed where desired.

I downloaded everything I could find from LEGO at the time.  I must have missed something.

@JoeWreschnig I seem to have all the models, however they are all very low quality black and white. Will post if nobody has the additional pdfs.

@JoeWreschnig You should post that cache site as an answer.  You can still download all of the rules and starter sets.  It's a shame that the units catalog is broken though.

I found here a link to the LEGO website on archive.org with the X-Pod playoff section intact.
The download links for the rules and starter kits still seem to work.
The units catalog is slightly broken, but I was still able to print all of the unit catalogs into PDF format using PDFCreator.  For them to print correctly, click on the Advanced Rules tab, then go back to the Units Catalog tab.  Click the button for the units catalog you want to print.  Select a unit from the list and click Print All Pod Plans.
The arena generator works also.
(Thanks to @JoeWreschnig for finding the cached flash file to give me the correct terms to search for.)

I did notice that the "Print all" option for the Wild pods seems to replace the last two (Vampire Bat and Wasp) with the last page from the Robo pods - did you see that?

Yes.  If you click the advanced rules tab, click on the Units Catalog tab, and then select the pod and click on one of the units of the pod, it will print correctly.

Yep, it seems 3rd time lucky for me there.

@JoeWreschnig For me the last page was replaced by the Aero Pod's last page (which was the first unit I had clicked on).  I figured if I could reset the page somehow I could click on the unit I was trying to print and get it to work.

Recently, I found a link to a website that has everything the Lego website had in a PDF format. Here it is: http://korewanetadesu.com/pages/lego/xpod.html


text:
Cleaning lego: substances that can be safely used without causing damage?

Possible Duplicate:
Lego cleaning techniques and tools

I've used a normal washing up solution of Fairy washing up liquid and warm water to good effect previously, but I do find the blocks attract dust very quickly.
Has anyone used anything else?


text:
Cleaning a lot of bricks after a very long time in storage

Possible Duplicate:
Lego cleaning techniques and tools

I have a lot of bricks that have been in storage for a few years. They've been stored in a closed big box.
They're now very dirty. It's mainly dust but it's sticky gooey dust. It goes away when i scrub it with water.
What i need is a practical solution to clean all the bricks together. Some kind of solution to put all the bricks in and get them out clean.
Any ideas?


text:
Steering mechanism for City-scale vehicle
I'd like to build city-scale (6 studs wide) motorized vehicles with PF remote control. There are already several suggestions on how to motorize wheels. The next challenge is steering
 mechanism that can be connected to motor (with gears or by other means). Sure, solution with 2 rotation axes is preferred, but rigid axle turning at center is OK too.

That sounds incredibly ambitious. Do you have a model you would like to modify or are you building from scratch?

@Ambo100 actually I've seen a working model carrying 2 M-motors, train battery box and IR receiver.

I tried out rack and pinion steering but it didn't work to well for such small scale. It would be around 12 studs including the motor, and another 8 for the back end motor. Wouldn't work unless you had a bus.

It's difficult, but not impossible. A rigid axle turning at the centre would be mechanically simpler. As my crude drawing illustrates;
I would place a 24-tooth gear over the 2x4 wheel axle. A 8-tooth gear is optional but will provide finer control over the steering. The two teeth gears can also be replaced with a pulley gear.

This technique however will not work with current Lego CITY vehicals unless the wheel arch is removed or replaced.

So the wheel axel where the gears are connected would not be connected to the frame of the vehicle? In other words, the wheels would be connected to the axel, which is connected to the gears? I'm not sure I understand how the movement would work...


text:
Can custom content be imported into LEGO Creator?
I was reading this Wikipedia article that states:

Some people have uploaded custom (Lego) model creations for others to
  download into their version of Lego Creator. Tools used include LDraw,
  LegoDigitalDesigner and other LCA model format model software.

Is this possible, and can custom shaped or coloured bricks be imported?

Purely out of curiosity, is there a reason you want to use Creator rather then LDD or something else a bit more modern?

Normally a statement like that on Wikipedia would require a citation - odd that it's missing... Anyway, digging around elsewhere, the Brick model files had more than just the model data - they had actions, etc. associated with them, so aren't the same format as the LDD elements. http://www.rockraidersunited.org/topic/2944-lego-creator/

Unfortunately, that's not a factual statement.  I contacted the Wikipedia user who added that content, and he informed me that that statement was in error.  You can add custom models, but not directly from LDraw, LDD, or similar tools.