text:
LDD lacks almost all functionality
I have installed LDD on my Windows 10 today, and after installing the application it automatically opened up. But I realized that when using the Desktop shortcut, the app can't be found. Here's the given error:

So I used the installer again, and it said that LDD was already installed. But I couldn't find the files anywhere, only the shortcut. So I reinstalled anyway and stored them in a directory I recognized, yet after installing when I checked the directory, it wasn't there. Once again I tried this process, but the problem persisted. I also notice that any LXF file I try to open doesn't do anything and LDD doesn't detect the file when I open it from the application itself. So LDD is quite crippled, tbh.
How do I solve this??

If you are on Windows 10 indeed, use Stud.io from Bricklink instead of LDD. LDD is no longer updated (since a few years already) and is missing newer parts. Stud.io is a much better product.

Unfortunately, we can't really help with General Support for these applications, that's something you're better off raising with the supplier themselves. If you're sure you know where the installer was supposed to install the application and it's not there, I'd double check your AntiVirus software, and make sure that hasn't quarantined the executable. But as Phil B notes, Stud.io is probably the way to go now.

Rather than re-installing, you should better go with full uninstall and then install again. This should remove all the associated files first and re-install correct ones, including the shortcut. Optionally, you could simply search for "ldd.exe" on your machine.

I have found a similar question that tells how to fix one of my problems: https://unix.stackexchange.com/questions/279397/ldd-does-not-find-path-how-to-add

Update as of 12 January 2022
The LEGO Group has announced via a press release they will be closing the LDD site from 31 January 2022, and encourage all users to migrate to Bricklink Studio.

The LEGO Digital Designer (LDD) website will close on January 31st, after which time LDD will no longer be available for download. While downloaded versions of the LDD application will continue to work, people are encouraged to download BrickLink Studio, import their LDD files, and use Studio for 3D LEGO building files, and use Studio for 3D LEGO building.

Original answer
As Phil B commented - you'd probably be better off with Studio now. This was originally developed by a team at BrickLink, and when they were acquired by The LEGO Group made the following statement:

What about Studio and LEGO Digital Designer (LDD) – what will happen with the two digital building experiences since they’re quite similar?
The LEGO Group is planning to support and evolve Studio and will review opportunities for both services following the closing of the deal.

So going forwards, Studio is the supported option. If you feel you really must stick with LDD, please also ensure that you use the last-but-one version, as the very latest version is missing a number of elements.
Finally, ensure that you download the installer from official sources (such as the LEGO CDN as linked in that answer), rather than "free software" sites, which might have tampered with the package.

Does it support LXF files? Might be a dumb question, but just wondering.

And is the studio hyperlink dangerous, or is it just my Antivirus getting confused?

I've fixed download URL. It is also easy to find it by googling "stud.io". It can also import LXF files, but not save them AFAIK.

Cheers Alex, and sorry @mindstormsboi : I assumed their short link was secure, and so shouldn't have linked it as https.

Alright, thanks.

TLG has announced that after 2022-01-31 the LDD website will be full removed and direct downloads from LEGO will no longer be available, nor will there ever be any more official updates to the software or the parts database. https://www.brothers-brick.com/2022/01/12/lego-fully-discontinuing-lego-digital-designer-in-favor-of-bricklink-studio/


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Read power usage and respond when motor is straining
Is there a way to know if the drive wheels are "straining", like when locked up with an opposing bot?
This is for a Lego sumo bot using the Lego Mindstorms Education EV3 Core Set (EV3 Large Motor 6009430 and Lego Mindstorms EV3 Home Edition).
The approach that should have worked is based on the difference between the "regulated motor" green block and the "unregulated motor" blue block. The regulated motor retains a consistent speed, adjusting the power necessary to keep that speed, while the unregulated motor sends a constant power so the speed may change based on resistance.
There's a yellow block called "Motor Rotation" which has a setting to read something called the motor's "Current Power". Instinctively, I figured that would tell me the power being sent to the motor, so if it was driving using the regulated drive block, I would expect to see a number that would go up when the motor encounters resistance and needs more power. (And the number would go down hypothetically if the bot was going downhill and needed less power to maintain speed).
But, in practice, the number returned from the read "Current Power" matched the speed number I sent to the regulated motor block, and when resistance was applied, the number went down. I tested this by having the number displayed on the screen, the number displayed matched the "Current Power" number shown in the live "Port View" in the Mindstorms computer app, both went down when the wheel slowed.
Is there a way to read the real "Current Power"?
Is there any other way to know when a motor is straining?

I was playing around with my EV3 robot and I intentionally prevented it from being able to turn a full 360 degrees. Right out of the blue when it couldn't move a full rotation the EV3 light started blinking orange. When I let go it turned the rest of it's rotation and the program stopped, which makes sense since there were no other instructions for the robot to complete. I repeated this process and got the same results, and that was odd since the program didn't interfere with the light in any way.
I found out a few details about this:
• Even after you let go, the flashing orange light still stays.
• It occurs when the EV3 cannot move it's motor(s) far enough (in this case the big servo motors), specifically when it can't even budge.
• The program will not continue unless you allow the motor to continue it's rotation.
• It doesn't seem possible to program the EV3 to stop the orange light after the motor can continue it's rotation (or maybe it is, I'm not certain).
Again, this doesn't suit your needs, since the orange light will remain from that point on. The energy meter probably doesn't tell if the motor is stuck, and this automatic light system isn't suitable either. But at least I tried!

I don't have this project anymore, but if I were to continue on it, I'd try monitoring the degrees of rotation over time compared to an expected rate if the motor was under a normal load.  That's a good hint.

I believe the orange light indicates low battery or excessive motor strain, and I have noticed that it switches back to green after a short delay. Probably the one 360-degree turn did not last long enough for the light to return to green.

When I was looking in the sensors tab of the LABVIEW EV3 block-based coding software, I saw something that kind of looked like an alternative NXT Brick.

It was actually an Energy Meter, and because of its name, I thought it would suit your needs. However, it's wire port looks like it's intended for Lego Power Functions, but if it's in the EV3 programming software, then obviously there must be some sort of way to get it to work with EV3.

Have you checked what "Energy Meter" actually is? I don't think it is supposed to work in the setup described by OP. It has both PF and Mindstorms type connectors. With later one supporting the so called "E-motor" only.

Some details about "Energy Meter" can be found here: https://le-www-live-s.legocdn.com/sc/media/files/user-guides/mm/9688-energy-meter-guide-e526319e083ac417918f4fa7c1563fc1.pdf

What a curious little product.  +1 for including a link to the PDF.  Looks like this is designed to use a motor as a generator (motor becomes an input to the battery unit and some mechanical force pushes the unpowered motor).  Doesn't like up with the OP though, and is for an older version of Mindstorms NXT.

@efreed If it's in the EV3 coding software, then isn't it meant for EV3?

@mindstormsboi I thought for sure I saw a picture of an NXT device when reading the PDF, but must have been reading to fast.  I take back my NXT comment.  It's still a +1 for finding this, but it does not make possible monitoring the load/stress of a drive motor that is in use.

@efreed I have updated the answer and found another feature, but as of now it's quite pointless. Maybe you can contact Lego customer service and tell them about this and ask that the light turns off after motor can continue rotation, okay?

Or maybe there's a way to program it to flash green after you physically allow the motor to move?

@mindstormsboi You may have stumbled on something with monitoring the degrees of rotation over time compared to an expected rate if the motor was under a normal load.  I don't have my EV3 anymore to test, but if you post something like that as a second/separate answer, I'll mark it as the accepted answer.

@efreed I've made it a separate answer now, I hope it satisfies you.

source: Stack Exchange

license: Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/

sort: votes


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Is it okay to put rechargeable AA batteries into the EV3?
Is it really okay to put rechargeable AA batteries into the EV3 and continuously put them in after recharging them each time? Boring old one-use AA batteries are getting too expensive for me, and I know that I should use the rechargeable battery which is intended for EV3. But still, will it work?

According to the posts in this Eurobricks thread, it is indeed possible, even if there are a few caveats to keep in mind (like the maximal current the batteries can supply versus the maximal current the attached motors can draw).

And I see some other guy use them, even though TLG clearly states that they are NOT recommended.

TLG has no other choice than to say they are not recommended, in order to shield themselves from the legal liability in case some faulty rechargeable batteries leak or explode, damaging the EV3 or other property or life. Then all the lawyers have to do is point at the clause that "these are NOT recommended" and a lengthy and costly legal battle is avoided.

all_licenses: Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/


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Can you identify this part? (Lego themselves couldn't)
These pieces (3 shown) predate 1990. I don't know which set they belong to or what they were/can be used for. I asked Lego but they didn't know either.

Looks like these parts belong to a system used in watches, however I couldn't find the exact part as well. Are there any numbers underside these elements?

No numbers underneath.

This is most likely Scala Jewelry Plate, Modified 2 x 2 (Human Bracelet segment).

Quite easy for me to find on Bricklink's search engine. All I did was type "plate 2x2 modified." Bricklink tells it appears in four sets which look like bracelet kits, but as of now it's too late to use them as bracelets because Lego has already invented newer ones. You might as well use these as a bridge or something.

Wouldn't say it is "extremely easy" to find this on Bricklink as I've spent quite some time and couldn't find the piece.

(type) plate. (size) 2x2. (keyword, w/o which you will not find it) modified. Do not include color. (result: second from last out of 25)

"You might as well use these as a bridge or something." If he had more, he might be able to use them as tank treads.

@Mazura the trouble with this piece is that it isn't listed under modified plates on Bricklink, but rather under an obscure Scala group. Which makes some sense to group parts of same functionality like Znap, Bionicle or Hero Factory do. However there is also a separate category of parts used in watches, where similar 1x2 modified piece is listed in this category instead. Not even in Parts catalog. Yeah, searching for "2 x 2 plate" return the result, but otherwise there's no logic unless you know the piece.

Yeah, I tried searching as well. You had more luck it seems. Thanks for figuring it out.
I a not sure about the count but I think I have like 10 of those. Rather disappointed it's from a bracelet. Was hoping for some tracked vehicle.

mindstormsboi solved it. I inherited set 312-2 I recognise the tiles and the 4 by 4 and 4 by 8 clip-ons.


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Is there a way to keep large plates together more efficiently?
Whenever I'm building a baseplate for something such as a skyscraper, every time I put larger-scale pieces (such as an 8 by 4) onto the larger bottom piece (i.e. 16 by 16), there is always space under the smaller piece and it never seems to flatten itself completely, no matter how hard I push on it. This results in imbalances in whatever goes on top of the plate. I don't want to damage the plates with a hammer, but is there another technique that I can use to keep it down?

Stacks of plates make wonderful bridges.  https://bricks.stackexchange.com/a/351/6174

This isn't my personal experience, but I have seen and heard people use rubber hammers for fixing larger plates onto baseplates, which shouldn't be all too different from fixing them onto normal plates.
Those are a classic homeworking tool, commonly used pretty much for the "real world" equivalent of what you're doing, fixing floor tiles and cobblestones into place. They should be soft enough when applying force over a flat area as long as you don't hammer away like a madman. For additional protection you could possibly also put a piece of cloth over the plates. It's probably still more effective and lesss straining than using your hands to hammer or your thumbs to press.
In general though, it's also not a bad idea to try and avoid sticking too many big plates onto each other, as even if you get them pressed together really tightly, it can lead to bending of the entire model when done over a larger area, which is especially noticeable when having a flat ground stand that then...isn't flat anymore. Some of the "thicker" Architecture sets like Trafalgar Square or Robie House exhibit this problem. Try to thin it out when you can or use baseplates for the bottom layer, which are a lot more flexible in themselves.


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Attaching a ring-like handle to a castle door
I'd like to attach a round metal looking handle to a castle door such as this one.
I did a search for 'ring' on Bricklink and found the life preserver.
Would this work, or are there better options?
I wonder if I could just thread a key ring through a technic brick.

I agree with Alex. There's no reason to settle for a ring, when you could use the ring.
Here's one way to attach it if you want the ring to look like it is hanging down from the door:

That's awesome. I looked at the one ring, but wasn't sure how it would attach. Thanks

Perhaps Minifigure, Utensil Ring 1 x 1 will be a better fit as it is slightly larger than a stud, while life preserver is 3-4 studs in diameter.

Here how it looks when attached to doors you've mentioned:


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How do the Ninjago spinners work?
How do the Ninjago spinners work? From the set it looks like you can put a minifigure on it. It's a little hard to understand how that works from the picture though.

I've had a few of these in the past, and I've managed to find one so hopefully I can explain it with a few pictures.
They are simple, hand-powered spinning tops, best spun by a finger and thumb:

Usually the original spinner would have a Plate, Round 2 x 2 with Rounded Bottom on the bottom to aid spin:

Although clearly these became more advanced as per the other examples with pin holes in the bottom for further attachments.
The minifig stands inside the spinner, only lightly held on by the parts inside:

The interesting part is the light grey part that holds the minifig's feet which can go up and down, which happens when the dark grey part is rotated:
Lowered:

Raised:

And it was this action that made the game you'd play with them: By getting two people with spinners, you could spin them at each other, and hope that they'd bump, or at least the characters with their weapons would catch on each other, and this would cause them to rotate within the spinner, lifting them up, and hopefully knocking one off!

The cards would then allow you to add additional weapons to your minifig, or parts to the spinner itself, either raising it up, or building up "defences" that would stop the minifig from rotating, and so keep it in place for the next battle.

I've found a manual online for set 9591 which includes one of these spinners, but it has no English instructions. I decoded all of the translations using Google translate, but they only told what you should do depending on which card is available.
Then this part of the PDF rang a bell in my head:

As you can see in the image, the hyperlink in your question leads to only one of the parts required to build the spinner, which is this one. Also, you can attach minifigures to it as shown. Based on the looks of that grey bottom part, it's pretty much a typical top. This part of the image also contributed to that conclusion:

So it seems like these are ordinary tops like I already said. They don't seem to have any special mechanism like Beyblades or any other special tops, but they did make similar tops before these came out.

Same page with instructions include an English version as well.

Thanks @Alex but they don't seem to lead us any further. They do not show any clue as to how the spinners are assembled.


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Anybody know what this piece is called?

This came from a little car, and I'm trying to build that car using LDD, but I can't find the piece. Can someone help?

On Bricklink this is called Wedge 3 x 4 x 2/3 Cutout.

As Uli pointed out in the comments this part is called "FRONT 4X3X2/3 W. BOW" in LDD. The given image looks very similar. You can also see if this is really the part you're looking for by looking at the 3D model of it.

How I found it: Searching by properties did not work (which usually does), and I knew that many Lego city police sets had red-colored vehicles, so on google I searched "lego city police" and hit images, and I saw an image of the front of the box for set 60243 which showed a truck that seemingly looked like it had this piece and I found the same set on bricklink. Then I looked at the part list, and it had this part!

LDD calls it FRONT 4X3X2/3 W. BOW


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What set(s) do these pieces belong to?

The orange wheels are very similar to the red buggy from the Neptune carrier.

Please unaccept my answer, it is incorrect.

Most of this looks like it's part of the Mars Mission range - however, none of those sets contain the 2 flames, and the Minifig has both wrong colour torso (grey, instead of white), and the wrong type of helmet (he has Headgear Helmet Space instead of a Motorcyle Helment)
As for which Mars Mission set you have there, from curved Windscreen, the Technic bars that the wheels are attached, the device the Alien is strapped into, and the arm on the drill, I believe that this is ETX Alien Strike

You can see the Alien in the holding contraption at the back of the mini rover, the wheels beneath it, the drill-arm in the centre, and the cockpit & windshield at the front.  It looks like you might actually have most of the rover in your photo!

The set you are looking to identify is part of Mars Mission theme from 2008. The reason for that - sets from this theme are the only ones to use the wheels you describe in Orange color. However, it is not clear which size you got as there are several: Small, Large and Giant. Most of these sets (but not all) include the other pieces you've mentioned.
This is the best I could get you without pictures. This is true if the set you got is not a mix of parts from more than one set or mixture of sets.

Thanks it was indeed the ETX Alien Strike as I also have the black space ship.


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Who is this minifigure: black trousers, blue shirt with id and rescue item, sunglasses

Who is this minifigure: black trousers, blue shirt with id and rescue item, sunglasses?
What set can it be from?

Looks like this guy but without the hat.

https://www.bricklink.com/catalogList.asp?catType=S&catString=67.626.610

I found it, it´s indeed a coast guard.


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What sets are these vintage figures and wheels from?

Where do these belong to? (their head/body/hair/hat might be mixed up).

Here are the parts you're looking for:
wheel
wheel
2x4 wheel
wheel base 2x4 and so on
arm holder
hand
arm part
also arm part
female hair
head with freckles
cap
Based on the collected links, this might be one of the sets you own. It is too challenging for me to identify any others, sorry for the inconvenience: https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?S=200-1#T=S&O={%22iconly%22:0}

I can't combine them and identify a particular set out of hte heads and hat combinations I have unfortunately.

@Lotte I'll give it a shot, I 'll use the links I have and try to see if they can be smashed together to form complete sets. It might not be possible however since we don't see your other parts, but let's not go too far with this vintage-identification business.

@Lotte I could only find one possible set, at least I tried.

The red cap is fairly unusual. The head with the freckles as well...
Based on that I would say the Universal Building set 50-1 on BrickLink
The rightmost wheels are in that set too. The other wheels are so common that there are dozens of sets with them.


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Putting flipped plates together as close as possible
I have two plates that I would like to connect together and collapse with the studs facing out like in the image below. I need the two plates to sit as close together as possible. But I'd like them to open up fully so all the studs face the same direction as well.
I came up with an idea with horizontal clips and a bar (shown in image). Or maybe using a hinge plate, but then I need to reverse the studs which takes some space.

Any idea how to do it as thin as possible?

You mean that it can expand and close in between?

Yeah I've added two more images showing the hinge action I'd like, but just like it to be as close as possible when closed.

Huh, I recall knowing a few SNOT hacks for this, I'll see if I can recover them. Only thing is that they don't allow to expand the space in between.

Are third party bricks allowed? I know a special brick from a clone-brand that might suit your needs.

I'd appreciate it, thanks.

I'd obviously prefer Lego only, but if it's a much better solution I'd be open to it

There is a bit of a challenge with a geometry. LEGO doesn't produce much symmetrical hinges, otherwise they would be out of system. I could think of the following one piece you could achieve a close result - Hinge Plate 2 x 4 with Pin Hole and 3 Holes - Top. It comes in White color as well, so you could incorporate in your layer of white plates.

Here's a solution using this part. Only downside - it has a little gap.

I think I missed this hinge plate where the connection is offset. I think this may be as thin as possible. Going to try this out. Thanks!

this way it can open and close

Blue = 4276 Hinge Plate 1 x 2 with 2 Fingers
Yellow = 4275 Hinge Plate 1 x 2 with 3 Fingers
LightBlue = Plate 2 x 4
White = Plate 2 x 2
Pink = Plate 1 x 4
Light Bluish Gray = Plate 1 x 3
Yellowish Green = Plate 1 x 2
Red = Tile 2 x 2
Green = Tile 1 x 4

Really cool design, unless I'm not understanding your design correctly, I'm looking to open and close fully like my 2nd and 3rd images. Your design closes as tight as possible which I love, but the light blue piece I think would get in the way when open or closed.

@bsf10 I believe that the "fully opened" state would be a T shape, with the blue part pointing down (or up).  You may be able to use Hinge Plate 1 x 2 with 3 Fingers On Side to make it 1 stud deep instead of 2

Yeah I agree, I love how tight it is but the T shape unfortunately won't fit.

Here is another example why they should re-introduce those lovely 4275/4276 hinge plates.

This is one method using levers

via Swooshable

The problem here is that the OP needs it to be a such a way that you can easily open up the inside, he already gave one of his own examples. But this is still good to know. You can also use bucket handles and minifig hands instead if you want.

Might be a decent solution with the standard hinge plate? Not exactly an approved Lego design but if it works....?

@bsf10 normally they would create noticeable space in between, and you would likely need to add SNOT hacks, which would create even more space in between.


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Vertical motion for a power burst bar
2nd question on my Bellagio fountain design:
Suppose I have several power burst with bar end, and I want to allow the viewer to turn a knob or something and make them go up and down. How might I do that?
I suppose I could use a winch with string somehow, but I'd like to do something a little more hidden.

Can you provide a picture or sketch of what you are trying to do? What does "go up and down" mean exactly?

The first 20 seconds of this youtube video gives a litle more detail on what I'm trying to do:   https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0tCuPp6nHKM

I have an idea which was actually from JKbrickworks. Here is the MOC that uses it and here is another MOC of his that uses it.
Here it is step-by-step:

First, we have a plain old technic brick.

Now there's an axle stuck through it. That connector at the end of it is what I will use as the lever to turn. You can use whatever you want.

These connectors on the other end of the axle are supposed to lift the parts up and down, up and down, up and down. Using bigger ones will push them higher, but make sure that their ends are rounded.

And obviously, we need to add bushes. But we're still not done!

Buncha brickwork...

A 1x1 studded beam was added so that we can loosely hold a beam up above.

A non-friction pin is added.

A 1x5 beam was added, but I should actually use a 1x6 beam instead, which is fixed in the next images. What's the beam even doing here anyway? It's going to act as a guide for the axles that will sit above it.

Same process is gonna go on again. Note that I used two 1x6 beams in half because they didn't seem to exist in full. And yes, the technic beam must be laying on the lifters like that. I had to update it.

Almost done! But there's more...

More brickwork...

Now we have a technic plate with holes to stick axles through.

And of course, we stick axles through, you don't have to use plates like I did. And make sure that they are loose enough and rest on the beams. This is also the time when you can turn the lever to see if the axles pop up and down, up and down, up and down. If they don't and get stuck, try turning the lever the other way. At this point, we are almost, almost done.
The only thing left is to find a way to attach this minifigure shield to the axles. I don't have any solution for this unfortunately.
The final result should look something like this:

Update:
We've thought of using bars to connect the fountain parts, but we've discovered a few downsides and problems with that.
The first problem is that the plate with holes in my build is placed in such a way that it's not exactly aligned with the beams below, increasing the chances of any bars being placed on top slipping off.

The second problem is that the bars are noticeably thinner than the size of the holes in the plates, which leads to some pretty bumpy performance, as shown below. Your bar will tip around and possibly even slip out.

The build can be improved to reduce the chances of such things happening by doing the following:

First, let's remove that plate to make our additions.

Now we will have some off-set studs in order to align the plate.

And now we put the plate back, in a better position than before.

Now it's not as likely that the bar can slip off the beams. Don't you notice the difference?
We can reduce the chances of that happening even more if necessary by adding more plates with holes to restrict the bar from slipping, like so:

Alright. Now about the fountain spray problem.
The bar for that piece you're interested in is positioned in a rather odd way (if you're wondering why then just look at some of the thumbnails of 76108) like this.
But don't worry, I have a solution for this. Just stick the bar holder /w clip on top of the bar and attach the fountain spray part, and you'll be done! Easy!
The completed model should now look something like this.
Download link (click the button in the upper right corner)

@Aziraphale It is a simple mechanism, you can see it in action and how it's done in the two hyperlinks in my answer.

The prairie dogs are brilliant! However, links may break after a while and the fastest way to enjoy an SE post is to look at images that are provided here. Users usually appreciate this little extra effort. Plus, so far we can only guess what the OP has in mind.

@Aziraphale I've added some more details and images, originally my answer was too broad. I've discovered that the water spray part can't really be attached because of the odd way the bar is positioned for minifigs to hold it :(

@mindstormsboi Have you successfully built AND run this with real bricks? Just curious...

I don't think rubber connectors would work well here - they are quite soft and bendy. And could only work in one direction.

@Alex Yes, I know rubber connectors are bad. I just used them because I couldn't find the plastic variant (seen in the first few images). And the fact that it only turns in one direction is no big deal.

Thanks for that detailed model mindstormboi. Can you give me a part number on those black pieces you put around the first axle around step 5?

@MonteGardner I don't recommend those since they are made of rubber, I think you should use the orange connectors seen in the first few images. I don't have time to find them, but on bricklink I think they're somewhere under the "technic connector" category. Best of luck in finding a wormhole for the power shield problem.

Is there a way to replace the vertical axles with a bar-type element? (Is there an equivalent to the technic plate that will hold a bar steady while allowing it to move up and down?)

@MonteGardner I've updated my answer, please look. It will answer your questions.

Thanks for all the help folks

I've created an initial prototype.  I found the "axle with stud 1 x 5" pieces allow me to cross from an axle to a bar type piece such as a fountain.


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Help identifying this 1x1 2/3 brick (no studs)
I have been trying to identify this 1x1 2/3 (?) brick (looked in Studio, Bricklink parts list, sets, ...) and cannot, for the life of me, identify it. I have been able to find a picture of it and know it exists at least in white and light gray. The closest I got was 49307

Can somebody help me out?

I believe that you are seeing the wide end of a cheese slope like this:

Note that these are simply held in place by friction and not really "connected" in a traditional way.

Ah that explains why i could not find it, i have checked in software and the dimensions of the cheese slope (54200) indeed seem to be correct. I never noticed they were rounded enough around the edges (backside) to given enough "rounding" effect when reversed.
Thanks a lot!


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Can anyone identify these parts? Technic, liftarm connected to a circle

I'm trying to follow a video MOC tutorial but I can't figure out what this brick is. Part number would help.

It looks like some 44224 Technic, Rotation Joint Disk with Pin Hole and 3L Liftarm Thick and some 44225 Technic, Rotation Joint Disk with Pin and 3L Liftarm Thick - probably two of each, connected by pins.


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Please help identify these bricks with holes between the rows of studs
Hi I came across these bricks. But I have no idea what they are.
They are plastic as far as I can tell.
I hope someone knows a bit more

These are early IDEMA bricks. http://www.inverso.pt/legos/clones/texts/idema.htm
Photo from linked site:

The site mentions "The middle holes are a feature patented by Dehm to allow a string to be passed through aligned holes, to fasten bricks together"


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What is this rounded, textured piece with connections at right angles?
Can someone please help me to identify this LEGO brick?

Here is another view:

I do not recognize this as a LEGO element.

Neither do I, where are these drawings from?

I haven't seen anything like that in official LEGO sets before, are you sure this instruction is not from a copycat company?

The style of the instructions doesn't look like LEGO's style of instructions to me.  As Henrik asked for, it would be great to know where these came from.

Maybe the "wagon wheel" element could be identified to find this set, and then look at the rest of the pieces in the set?

Only 2 wagon wheels have 10 spokes, the others have 8. Number of sets that have those wagon wheels is short enough for manual inspection in bricklink -> none of the sets having those wheels look remotely like the stuff in the photo. It's quite safe to assume this is not a Lego set...

This is a very popular brick in certain clone brands that specialise in military theme, but then it is in military green.

It's hard to prove a negative, but searching Bricklink for "brick 1x1 modified" does not give any relevant results.
Combined with the utter lack of familiarity from all commenters above, it is more than probable that this is a 3rd party (clone) brick, and not an official LEGO design.


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Lego Set number or building instructions - lots of lime green and purple and grey
Please help me to identify what is set number for these LEGO sets. I bought them from OP shop but I can’t find what is set number. I just know plastic bag with QR Code and when I scan it becomes 6172090, 2017 The Lego Group

Plastic bag #2 219g8

Plastic bag #5 219g8

Plastic bag #4 319g8

It is well known that the numbers on the bags cannot be used to identify the sets; please post images of the bags, with as many pieces visible as possible.

Possible duplicate of https://bricks.stackexchange.com/questions/11276/lego-plastic-bags ?

Hi Alex, thanks so much for your prompt reply. I just edit the question by adding more photos please have a look and help

Hi everyone I have found the set number. It’s Lego set 41346 Lego Friends Friendship Box.

There are also parts from 10188: Death Star
Photo #3 & 4

Part # 55236 : Reddish Brown Plant Vine Seaweed / Appendage Spiked / Bionicle Spine
Part# 2585 : Light Bluish Gray String Reel 2 x 2 Drum
Part #30376 : White Legs Mechanical, Battle Droid
from Assassin Droid (White)
Part# 30562 :    Dark Bluish Gray Cylinder Quarter 4 x 4 x 6

I'm reminded of https://www.brothers-brick.com/2015/05/04/lego-death-star-remake-in-the-friends-theme/

@HuongNguyen says it's

Lego set 41346 Lego Friends Friendship Box

but I just wanted this question to stop coming up as unanswered. Don't upvote it.

But I just noticed there's also a weapon in there - that is not part of the set.

41346 Lego Friends Friendship Box does not contain the curved quarter panels from the fourth photo, but 10188: Death Star does.


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Which sets do these half-built pieces belong to? Lime green vehicle, long yellowish vehicle, creature with claws
Which set does each one of these belong to?

The first looks like 60181 Forest Tractor
The second looks like 60178 Speed Record Car
The third looks like 31073 Mythical Creatures

Thank you. Really appreciate your response.

2nd one does have 3 distinctive pieces from that set, but it's clearly a custom design, as most of the other pieces are not from that set.

@DarrelHoffman I agree - but it's mostly that one. I'm glad I didn't go down the rabbit hole of looking for those pieces!


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Which sets do these pieces belong to? Orange (non-Lego) and orange/black (Lego)
Which sets do these pieces belong to?
Thanks!

Bottom left looks like the bagged micro set of the Guardians of the Galaxy ship

The other LEGO sets seen in first picture have pieces of Arctic Ice Crawler (60192)

And Drone Explorer (31071)

Top-right are from the ice-crawler, bottom-right is drone explorer. Top-left appears to be partial non-Lego (studs look really wrong on several pieces). Bottom left appears to be Lego, but is not from either set as far as I can tell.

The first isn't (entirely) Lego - you can see the open studs on the top-left build.
The second seems to be 70645 Cole - Dragon Master

Thank you for your response.  How about the other pieces in the first picture?  They may not be all from the same set.

Bottom left is from The Guardians' Ship (30525), you can tell from the cockpit.

I believe that makes the top left the only clone brand sub-assembly.


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Which LEGO set bricks with words Basel, Genova, Hamburg, Post belong to?
I have these bricks with these words on them. I have searched on the internet, but can't find what sets these would go to.
Does anyone know ?

Those pieces were in one set: 113-2 from 1966.


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Does anyone know what set this belongs to? Dark red, and greens
Recently I bought a bunch of LEGO pieces and stuff from a garage sale, but one of the things I also got was this bag. The number says 135149 and it’s from 2011. I figure it might be from Star Wars due to the green laser pieces and maroon pieces, but I’m not sure. There might’ve been other bags that were supposed to go with it, small ones, but I can’t be sure.

Others better at this than I might be able to make out what the pieces are, but to me, it's quite blurry. If you could take another photo of just the pieces (no hand, no background) and make sure they're in focus, it might help us all.

What RSchulz said, or more detailed: open the bag, spread out the pieces on a white (or light monochrome) background to minimize overlap, then take a picture with the plane in focus where the pieces fill the frame but don't extend out of it and finally upload the photo in original (unreduced) size.

While proper identification is only fully possible after you follow the comments of Zovits and RSchulz and include a better picture, I am pretty sure this bag belongs to set 75191 Jedi Starfighter with Hyperdrive. This is because:

It has at least 3 bags due to its size (and you have a bag 3)
It includes the projectile in trans bright green
It includes at least one of the 4x6 wedge plates in dark red, visible in the right bottom of the bag. There are other sets with the projectile and dark red pieces (all in the Star Wars theme) but from what I can make out, 75191 is the only one with this wedge plate.


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Which item no is this minifigure head - prominent eyebrows raised in the middle, lots of teeth
I'm searching for the item number of this minifigure head:

Thanks for your help!

It's very close to 3626cpb2024 - but this shows more gap between the teeth.

Howdy Mister Dan, welcome to Bricks.SE.  Is your picture from a real-life model or was it 3d-rendered?  There are lots of amazing 3d-rendered LEGO pictures out there with parts that don't exist in those colors or with stuff printed on bricks that LEGO hasn't done yet.

The picture is from a Lego Stop Motion Film. Could be that the animator has digitally altered the face.

I could only find minifigure head with same face expression but with freckles:
Minifigure, Head Dark Brown Eyebrows, Dark Orange Freckles, Open Mouth Crooked Smile Pattern (Jay) - Hollow Stud (3626cpb1872)

While I cannot yet confirm if this is the only piece with such face expression, it is not unheard of such modification (within LEGO community), where unwanted printing is removed.

I was just about to make this same suggestion!

It's very similar to that and another couple we have at home (same mouth, different eyebrows), to the extent I thought we had the right one


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EV3 Brick: Powers on then off and won't stay powered on
I have an EV3 brick that when I press the power button the red lights all come on - the display shows starting up but after 3 seconds it powers off. The same happens when I press the power and right keys to update.
Any suggestions on how to get the unit to power on properly or is this not a software issue?

Did you try new batteries?

I did try with new batteries.

If the batteries are new and not even the update mode stays on, then something is wrong with the hardware. You should reach out to LEGO customer support to see if they can help.


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Identify a non-Lego Santa set

Yeah so basically I tried the usual sites, but even putting in “North Pole sign” came up with nothing except one kinda similar. I can’t find anything on this set. Please help.

I could not find anything for 'Santa's letters' and the parts with 'North Pole' where showing different stickers on Bricklink,
Based on the design of the bricks and the strange colour used for the characters I strongly suspect these are not LEGO bricks.
The 2x2 slope for example does not show a visible LEGO logo on the studs and each stud is quite different. The bags they are packaged in are also not standard.

It will be quite difficult to identify this set if you cannot find a box, instructions or some other markings/part numbers. Clone-brands rarely have an online set database where you can find sets or an official website.

I was not able to find anything in a Google search for compatible +"santa's letters" building construction - this appears to be a product that hasn't made an impact on the Internet.


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unknown pieces of a set - stickers on round corner bricks
I have found these pieces in a bulk purchase and I would like to find out the set.
They have sticker on it. Maybe a star wars set?
many thanks

9450 Epic Dragon Battle is the only set that contains part 95188pb12L - Brick, Round Corner 6 x 6 with Slope 33 Edge, Facet Cutout with 3 Diamonds and Black Line Pattern Model Left Side (Sticker) - Set 9450

Great. Many thanks!

It looks like 95188pb12L leading to set 9450 Epic Dragon Battle


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Help identifying potentially two LEGO sets - Hogwart's and Star Wars?
I just received a LEGO Eiffel Tower set from a very generous neighbor.  With the set, she included two other bags of LEGO pieces just in case the Eiffel Tower set was not complete and had pieces of it in those two bags.  Well, those two bags also included some of these pieces that were already created.  One of them appears to be Hogwart's Castle.  However, I am not sure what the other set might be.  Do any of these pieces look familiar to anyone (particularly the set that looks like it may be a Star Wars set)?  Thanks!

You’re correct that the one set looks like Hogwarts. Specifically 5378 Hogwarts Castle (3rd edition). There are three Dolores Umbridge figures, only one with solid pink legs like in your photo. This version only appears in the 3rd edition Hogwarts.

The Star Wars set looks like 8039 Venator-Class Republic Attack Cruiser.

Neither set contains Boat, 14 x 5 x 2 with Oarlocks without Hollow Inside Studs though it does appear in 75954 Hogwarts Great Hall so it could reasonably be part of the collection of someone interested in Harry Potter sets.


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Which Lego brick number is this? 1 x 3 connected vertically to a base
Please can someone help me to identify the brick in the picture. Thanks.

Does this answer your question? Please identify these two kinds of Lego bricks (circa 1990's)

They're the same piece, but is there any way someone could make that connection with such a generic question?

We don't have a clear policy on whether similar part-identification questions are duplicates.  https://bricks.meta.stackexchange.com/q/508/6174  Unless folks happen to do an image-based search it seems unlikely normal users would have much chance of realizing they're making a duplicate.

It's part 4169 Bracket 2 x 3 - 1 x 3 (Train Signal Stand)


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non-LEGO Tank, Marine Corps - Can anyone identify set?
Can anyone identify this tank? I'm looking for instruction to this set. I also found a strange door.

That tank doesn't look like anything LEGO would make. The frame of the door looks wider than what LEGO makes and the colours also look wrong, so I don't think any of that is LEGO.

Vaguely related: Are there any army-related LEGO toys? and Does the LEGO Group condone war toys?

The picture of the vehicle isn't very clear.  It appears to be dark green and missing several pieces.  This makes an already difficult to identify set nearly impossible unfortunately.  The dark green color and apparent military theme strongly suggest this isn't a Lego brand set, as already mentioned by Henrik.
What is left of the vehicle looks like some sort of APC or IAV possibly.  I spent some time searching and couldn't find building sets with the Marine Corps sticker on them.  It is very likely this was made by one of the many companies that make Lego compatible military sets, and even if we knew the exact set, it is highly unlikely that building instructions could be found.  To try to help you figure out what's missing on your set I've included a couple pictures to give you an idea of what your set might have looked like.

As for the door, very little can be determined from the picture.


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Help identifying wedge tile piece

2 x 3 flat tile piece. Same size as 2 x 3 wedge plate but I cannot find anything listed with the smooth top. "P 9" marking on the back with "lego" stamp but no part id number.

What I thought was a lego mark is actually 0C31. This must be a megablok. Sorry for the confusion!

Hi Jon, welcome to Bricks SE. Perfectly valid question and answer, no need to apologize.

0C31 looks remarkably like LEGO, when turned upside down, so I can't fault you for this mistake. Welcome to Bricks.SE!

It'd be nice to edit the original question to include this info.  It seems weird that it still stays there was a LEGO stamp on it.


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Help Identifying a minifigure head - white, like a mime or clown
I have looked everywhere I know to look but can't find this minifigure head listed.  Any help appreciated.

looks really similar to the sad clown head https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=3626bpb0915#T=C&C=1
the cross near the eyes are indicative of a clown-like figure, maybe a mime.

Could you confirm that it's a LEGO minifig ?

It is definitely a lego minifigure I got it out of the build a minifigure bin at the Lego store.  I have searched clowns, and mimes and looked through the entire minifigure database on bricklink and can't find a match.

I have looked through all the white heads on BrickLink, and find no match. Since OP said that they found it at the Build-A-Minifig bin, my guess is that it may be a head from an upcoming minifig/promotional item that wasn't released yet. An interesting find for sure!

I think it’s a Lego clown face from a mystery pack. I don’t know what series

I talked to a Lego expert on the lego.com online chat.  He told me that this particular lego head was an exclusive part for the Build a Minifigure bin and gave me the part number for it 6257472 mini figure head #2829.  I didn't know there were exclusive parts in the minifigure bin, I wonder if this is something new.  He seemed quite surprised when he found it in the lego database as being exclusive to the build a minifigure bin.

Great find, and thanks for coming back and letting us know :)

Awesome. Yeah I have a chimpanzee 95327pb02 that is difficult to find because it was in the Build a Fig bin, whereas the alternate print of it (95327pb01) is easy to find because it's included in 2 sets.

@raystafarian good to know!  Not knowing the build a fig bin had exclusives for a minute I thought they were kidding!

@bricknerdz I stopped by build a fig Tokyo today to try to find that head, no luck but they had other mimes I haven't seen

@Raystafarian  oooo cool, did you take pics?

I did not think to, no. Sorry

@raystafarian no worries, it just now has me wondering what exclusives the mini figure bin may have

Nuts. I found this thread while searching for a way to identify miscellaneous heads and read the discussion about build-a-fig stations. That got me interested in finding a LEGO store. googled the closest one and sifted thru a few photos. Lo and behold: a shot of this mime from last year. SF LEGO Store - Mime Minifig Head

Found it on brick link Catalog: Parts: Minifigure, Head: 3626cpb2325.
Title says it's a Minifigure, Head Mime Smiling Face, Black Star Eyes with White Pupils Pattern - Hollow Stud


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Can anyone identify this octagonal dish piece for me?
It seems like this piece would be named "Octagonal Dish 2 x 2" but I can't seem to find it on any of the usual sites. Is this named something else or is it not a real LEGO element?

Does the part have any numbering / lettering?

I believe it's yet another MEGABLOKS part. You can see it on the top of 9321 Cyborian rover holding the yellow antenna, for example.

It is very obvious that it is a Mega Blok.

Mega Bloks are always thicker than Lego bricks.
It would have Lego markings on it.
It would be listed here.
Have you seen a Lego piece with those big bumps? I have seen them on lots of Mega Bloks.

+1: In this case you're quite right. In general, however, it is worth noting that LEGO isn't always marked as such (Minitalia components, for example), and that the list on Brickset isn't quite definitive.

I'm going with "This is not a LEGO piece", assuming completeness of this Brickset page: http://www.brickset.com/parts/browse/categories/?category=Plates,%20Special%20Circles%20And%20Angles which seems to be where it would be if it existed in genuine LEGO...

It could be the extension to the gun like objects in the Lego Life on Mars set.

all_licenses: Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0/


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Mindstorms - want to perform various tasks, but never two of the same in a row (and other restrictions)
I want to make a program that does a few things in a random order: I have this so far:
The problem here is... I have set the switch block with the random number block to 3 different programs to run. So of course they run randomly. But I want to make it like this: When program 1 on the switch block has finished the random number cannot be 1. 2 can run twice but not three times, the same for 3. 2 can never run after 3 or 3 after 2. So when 2 finished the program, all of the numbers can be the case. If 2 comes after two, the next step should be 1. Not 3 because I made number 3 the reversed of 2 which I don't want to make run after eachother.
This is an example of how it should act in the loop that's going 6 times:

This looks like a state machine.
Save the "state" of your program in a variable. The state will be which program to run, so 1, 2 or 3.
You will also need some more variables to track the previous state and how many times a program has run.
Code flow will be something like this:
next_state = 1
prev_state = 0
run_count = 0
begin loop
    compute_next_state
    switch next_state
        case 1: run program_1
        case 2: run program_2
        case 3: run program_3
    end switch
    if next_state == prev_state
        run_count = run_count + 1
    else
       run_count = 0
    end if
    prev_state = next_state
end loop

I left out the implementation of compute_next_state since you have that spelled out quite well in your diagram.

I'm not sure how to use this code... I am not very skilled in coding and coding with nxt I have 0.0 experience...

To make it easier, I added an extra program to run which is the same as 2X program 2 or 3. Because Program 2 and 3 are 90 degree turns. So now it should be clearer what the idea is:
So the loop could start on program 1 and run 2, 3 or 4 after, but it could also start on 2, 3 or 4 on which the next step always program 1 is. It could stay running and keep taking infinite steps. So only after the first program is randomly chosen, the rest of the random chosen programs will be after program 1. The rest is in a logical order. After program 1 the system will randomly choose a new program for the next step that could be any of the steps exept program 1. So a long way of steps could look like this: Program 2 - Program 1 - Program 4 - Program 1 - Program 2 - Program 1 - Program 3 - Program 1 - Program 3 - Program 1 - Program 4 - Program 1 etc. etc. etc. The amount of steps that will be taken is the amount of times that the loop is set to. Right now I have made it in blocks. Very simple. Only the first two steps could be the same, but that's no problem to me.  :)

Even though I found it out myself I thank you very much!


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How much do you think these Lego pieces are worth?
I've got some very old LEGO brick from the 50s, and am wondering how much they are worth. I'd like an estimate because I know that they are now collectors items that might be worth something.
Here are some of the items:

Three Lego Beetles that are in plastic very good condition in red black and grey
A plastic red fire truck and a tanker that is red with written "Esso" on it and other small size Lego plastic trucks
The Lego set 810 with all the items inside
Another big wooden box of Lego
Box number 750 containing some architectural buildings

Instructions are included with each box.

There's a site called brickpicker.com that could be used as a rough guide for what sets are worth. Like Gev said - you really have to find the right buyer though.

There's a guy named Michael Todd, goes by Bruno, who lives outside of San Diego. He's built up one of the largest private collections of Lego memorabilia, if you will, in the world. He has purchased plenty of stuff from the 50s and 60s over the years, and he'd be a great resource to reach out to with a question like this. He has recently opened a museum in conjunction with the San Diego Toy and Doll Museum in Poway, CA. You can contact him through his website: http://www.lgauge.org/contact-us/

My answer to this kind of question is always "it's worth exactly as much as someone is willing to give you for it."
That said, one could look up prices on BrickLink (assuming there are any for sale there) and go from there. Failing that, put them on eBay with a reserve/starting bid of whatever minimum amount would make it ok for you to part with them.

Apart from looking prices up on BrickLink, putting them online for sale requires an intent to sell


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Unidenitified LEGO set - Star Wars stormtroopers and droids and stickers
Can anyone assist me to identify this set of LEGO. It's probably from between three to eight years old. I found the pieces but no instructions. I'm not sure if the orange pieces in the bottom right hand corner belong to the set or not.

I don't think all the pieces are from one set. You have definitely got parts of the 8015 Assassin Droid Battle Pack in there (the grey and white tipped parts on the purple curved slope pieces are for sure from that set).

But you seem to be missing most of the droids (only two droid bodies and a few arms, no heads). The two Star Wars figures are from another set - the one with the black hands appears to be minifig number sw201 - Clone Trooper Clone Wars, but since minifigs can be recombined this might not be correct.

Both Stormtrooper minifigs seem to have the same torso (at least from what I can make out from the photo) but one of them has yellow hands - I cannot find such a stormtrooper on BrickLink nor a set that has both black AND yellow handed stormtroopers.
The cupola shaped bowl is from 8086 Droid Tri-Fighter (and the part is unique to this set). This is also likely where the chain of bricks on the top comes from - it forms the arch of the Tri-Fighter. The propeller-blades are part of the nose of this model.

As has been mentioned in other answers, the dark blue pieces, yellow technic bricks, long rubber spikes, and long grey guns all appear in 8015 Assassin Droids Battle Pack. It also looks like you have parts of the droid minifigures.

It appears that the collection also contains parts of 8014 Clone Walker Battle Pack, which was released at the same time as 8015 Assassin Droids Battle Pack. The grey triangular plates, round tiles stickered with the Republic logo, and two clone troopers all appear in this set. The yellow hands and head would have been mixed up by the set's previous owner.

I'd say you have multiple kits there, but a big chunk of it appears to be the Assassin Droids Battle Pack (Item No 8015-1 and instructions are available).

The Assassin Droids only came in that pack.

Kit 8015-1 does not include any Stormtroopers so those came from somewhere else.  There are lots of Stormtroopers out there.  I couldn't find those helmets on BrickLink.


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Help me find the id of a part - two clips back-to-back
Help me find the id of this LEGO part please!

Hi c1oz7 and welcome to Bricks.SE! Please take the time to read the [tour] and the [help] pages to learn the local customs which will let you write great questions.

This is definitely not a LEGO part, but one from a compatible brand. Looks like a Brickarms U-Clip.

Can you tell me where I can buy?

If you click on the link provided, there is literally a section on that page labeled "where to buy."


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Lego 21323 Grand Piano - After setting up app on page 110 of instruction, the gear is turning anti-clockwise instead of clockwise as shown
After completing all builds till page 108 of the instructions, I installed the app. But when I press play on a song the gear move for a quarter turn anti-clockwise but the picture on page 110 shows clockwise.
What should I do
 (from https://lego.brickinstructions.com/en/lego_instructions/set/21323/Grand_Piano)

Could you confirm if Technic, Gear 20 Tooth Bevel is installed as shown in the picture? And not on the right (closer to us) side?

Thanks Alex. You are right. That was the mistake I made.

Converting comment that lead to an answer.
Looking at the picture the first thing that gets my attention is the position of Technic, Gear 20 Tooth Bevel. Particular part placement has a room for error - yellow half-bushing, placed on the same axle could easily be swapped with mentioned 20T bevel gear. This kind of error would reverse the rotation when operated.
Could you confirm if  is installed as shown in the picture? And not on the right (closer to us) side?


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How do I determine which set these belong to? Lots of yellow and blue, wheels, some grey
How can I determine which set this is?

60079-1 Training Jet Transporter
Based on

Yellow Bracket 1 x 2 - 2 x 4
Blue Plate 6 x 6


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I came across these and cannot identify the set - greys, tan, orange, darker green
I came across these and cannot identify the set.
Can anyone help me with identifying the set?

The top left assembly is from 75974: Bastion

the top right assembly is from one of these AT-ST 's

the bottom left assembly is from 75035: Kashyyyk Troopers

The bottom right assembly is from 70228: Vultrix's Sky Scavenger

AT-ST 75153 is the only of the three to have 6587 in Dark Tan and 92593 in LBG


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I cannot find the set these bags of Lego bricks belong to - lots of greys and dark reds
I cannot find the set these bags of Lego bricks belong to.
Can anyone help?

The bottom polybag contains 92946 in light bluish gray, 32523 in light bluish gray, and 3666 in tan. That combination of parts appears only in one set: 75243 Star Wars' Slave I, 20th anniversary edition.

Top right polybag appears to be from one of two Death Star - UCS sets: 10188 or 75159

These bags aren't all from the same set. 32523 in light grey is visible in the lower bag and isn't in either of those Death Stars.

@FredricShope thanks for noticing. I've updated the answer accordingly.


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Can anyone help me identify what set this pack is from please? white pieces with a distinctive minifig

Hi, I am struggling to identify what set this pack is from. It came randomly with a box of various toys, so nothing for reference!

Could you add a picture that shows which elements are inside the bag?

Please note any codes you find on a bag like this are irrelevant in identifying LEGO sets.

That explains why I can't find anything having searched for these codes! I'll add some more pictures.

Does this answer your question? How can I identify LEGO sets from a box or bag of parts?

70595 Ultra Stealth Raider is the only set on BrickLink with

973pb2520c01 Torso Ninjago Tunic with Light Gray Trim and Belt, 3 Dark Gray Ties with Gold Buttons, Dragon Symbol on Back Pattern / White Arms / Sand Green Hands
970c00pb0589 Hips and Legs with Silver Sash and Knee Straps Pattern

(Note: the torso and the legs are from two different figures.)


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identifying mega bloks parts, including a lot of big fig parts
Morning all,
I have got a massive box of mega bloks, but am really struggling to find what sets they are from. I have tried to find the more obscure bits so it can hopefully narrow things a bit.
#1

#2

#3

#4

#5

#6

#7

Have you already run those blocks through any block sites?

The part on the 1st photo is from MEGABLOKS set 9728 :Blue Thunder

Source : Partlist from Manual
I think the part on photo # 2 is from MEGABLOKS set 1401: Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles 1/4 pipe fight

The raised base plate on the 3th photo is from the Megabloks Dragon line
The part on photo #4 is from
MEGABLOKS set # 9337 Transforming Blok-Bots - Spy

The brown arm  is from
MEGABLOKS set# 9358 : Transforming Blok-Bots - Gladiator & Lion


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Kazi train - struggles to run, maybe due to weight
I've ordered 2 Kazi trains on aliexpress. Seemed like a nice set with some tracks for my kids. As seen below it's a set where the power box is a separate part and it runs a motor that connects to the wheels by a bunch of gears. Problem I have is that the trains are struggling to run. Yellow one more than green, maybe due to weight. Anyone had a similar problem and knows how to improve the set? I'm wondering if switching to the undercarriage motor would work on these sets. The larger ones seem to have a different kind of motor that has no gears to get it moving and provides power directly to the wheels but not sure if that one would fit. Considered applying some grease but not sure how much that can help in this case without making everything sticky.
[
[]

So I have done some more investigation into the problem on my side and there are several ways to go into this. First thing I did is I switched the battery brand from regular Maxell to GP extra which improved the condition but I still could not fully use the battery box in terms of speed regulation but an improvement none the less. Then I tried a couple of combinations:

changed the rubber on the wheels - no significant improvement all though the rubber I got originally is a lot worse in terms of quality
I used a combination of the original battery box and the undercarriage motor - best solution if it fits your train - you need some additional bricks to do the change probably - speed settings work well also
New motor and a 6 AAA battery power box - works well but no way of changing the speed with this power box - does not improve with the 5 battery box

So essentially the problem is in the gears which get stuck a lot, make a lot of noise and have a lot of wear - a lot of dust everywhere.
In case you're considering buying a train that is using the M motor like mine the best solution is to switch to undercarriage. Some trains are bigger and use the undercarriage by default so those will probably work better although the overall train weight is higher.

First thing is what batteries are you using with it ?
Some devices do not run well on rechargeable NiMh or NiCad batteries as their voltage is lower initially. So you may see lights that are more dim, motors run slower or so on.
Many devices may have voltage regulators or DC-DC converters where this not an issue. Simpler childrens toys and so on are often wired directly with no power circuit and are not optimal for rechargeable batteries.
You can also have some issues with heavy duty batteries not working correctly (not just shorter life), so if not already done troubleshoot with a set of fresh decent quality alkalines and go from there.
If that is already the case we can move on to looking at other possibilities.

Hi, thanks for replying. I'm using regular AAA batteries. Was considering the rechargeable but since voltage is lower than with the regular ones I'm guessing it's not gonna work. I saw some ideas of making your own battery pack but question is also weather you can put a bit more power in and not damage the motor.

deafeningly the Offical rechargeables are 7.4v output


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Help Identifying Bag of Black and Grey Lego pieces from set 11021
My son got box of Classic Lego (set 11021) that came with extra unmarked bags of Lego pieces.  Here is one of the bags, can you help identify which one this is?
Thank you!

This bag is from the same set as your other question : https://bricks.stackexchange.com/questions/17523/mystery-bag-of-blue-and-green-lego-pieces

I just noticed you already mentioned set 11021. For clarification : the 3 bags from your 3 questions came with that set.

I emailed the customer support and they provided me with this answer: "We intentionally don't include building instruction for these bags for your LEGO® 11021 because we want builders to let their imaginations run wild! For inspiration, we added some pictures to show a few things that can be built with the pieces in the set. Copying the models pictured can be incredibly rewarding before moving on to building more amazing creations."


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Is a huge box of old unsorted Lego and non-Lego pieces with no instructions or boxes of any value?
I have an old big bin of at least 20,000 Lego and Lego-like pieces. I never kept the boxes or the instructions when I was finished building sets and I have Lego pieces from at least 50 different sets, plus other non-Lego brand bricks of various types. I could sort it out, but that would take an extraordinarily long time. I want to know if they have any play value left; if I can still use them as Lego without any instructions or boxes, and no memory of what half of the sets that went into it were. Do these pieces have any play value, since they are random pieces with no way to reassemble the original sets?

Yes, there's play value (build whatever you want with whatever pieces). On finding the original sets, see https://bricks.stackexchange.com/questions/404/how-can-i-identify-lego-sets-from-a-box-or-bag-of-parts . On sorting big collections, see https://bricks.stackexchange.com/questions/550/has-anyone-automated-the-lego-hand-sorting-process-beyond-pawing-piling . Does this cover your quandaries?

@IvanSanchez I think so. I didn't know if legos could be put together any which way or if the legos would only fit together the way the instructions showed. So I can build things from legos that aren't the way they are in the instructions?

Yes, you can combine together bricks from pretty much any set. Try it out.

@IvanSanchez That comment would be an upvote-worthy answer in itself.

Just bought 1 for £5, so yes, quite a few parts I was after, p!ate with 1curved, petrol pump, blue window.

It definitely has a lot of play value for random creative building. With a box like that I would recommend to donate it to a primary school or kindergarden. If they have lego it would be in exactly that form anyway. A nicely ordered collection of indivual boxes with manuals would just quickly be turned into a huge mixed box anyway.


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I found these parts but cannot find the set(s) they go to - one is largely tan, others are black and greys
I found these parts but cannot find the set they go to.
Can anyone help identify the sets they belong to?

The upper left assembly with the Tan Tile, Modified 4 x 4 with Studs on Edge
is from set # 75974: Bastion

The upper right assembly is from set# 75322: Hoth AT-ST

The bottom left assembly is from set# 75035: Kashyyyk Troopers
][4

The bottom right assembly with Dark Brown Wedge 6 x 8 Cutout with Alien Skull in Black Circle Pattern (Sticker) is from set # 70228: Vultrix's Sky Scavenger


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What set are these 3 Lego bags from? Lots of white and tan
My nephew purchased this Lego set at a thrift store, we need your help identifying what set it is. Thanks for your help!

The top bag is from 41711-1 Emma's Art School.
Based on

White Hinge Plate 1 x 4 Swivel (2429 / 2430)
Sand Green Plate 1 x 10

The second bag looks like it could be from the same set based on a few pieces I looked at.
The last bag, however, already has things built, so is almost definitely not sealed. It might be a mix, it might be everything from the other bags, there's no practical way I know of to be sure. The White 6 x 12 plate is in that set, at least. And the mini-doll with the hoodie looks like Felix. And the built part on the left, with the yellow circular pieces, seems to be in the picture near the bicycle.

Thanks so much! We'll look up the set instructions and see how it goes


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Does anyone know what set these Mega Bloks grey parts are from?
My son bought some loose Mega Bloks in the UK and we are trying to identify what sets these parts could be from.

The part with the suctioncup and the cannon part are from Skylanders Giants

Battle portals

Zeppelin Airship Assault


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I was given a Lego set bag with no box or instructions - mostly blacks, whites, greys, browns
I was given a bag of a Lego set with no box or instructions and my kid wants to build it. The bag number is 5, from 2017. QR code and picture of pieces attached.

Unfortunately, the bag QR code only identifies the bag, which would be in many, many different sets; similarly, the 2017 copyright only applies to the bag, which would be in use for many years after that point.

If you only got bag 5, it's not a complete set, and as such it won't be possible possible to build the set.

That isn't bag 5, that's a plastic code for polypropylene

Any number you see inside of a recycling symbol will be about the material. It has nothing to do with the purpose of the contents.

Based on

Pearl Gold Plate, Modified 1 x 1 with Tooth Vertical
Black Wedge, Plate A-Shape with 2 Rows of 4 Studs
Dark Bluish Gray Wedge, Plate 3 x 3 Cut Corner

71719-1 Zane's Mino Creature

Looks good. This set also has "Wedge 4 x 3 No Studs Stepped" (Black), and "Wedge 4 x 4 Fractured Polygon Top" (dark Bluish gray) which appear in the question

@roblogic I don't think I even knew such a piece existed.


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A Star Wars thing, but what set is it from? A sphere with legs?
A Star Wars thing but what set is it from?

This is
75142: Homing Spider Droid

Keyparts

Dark Bluish Gray Brick, Round Corner 3 x 3 x 2 Dome Top
Dark Bluish Gray Projectile Launcher Part, Rapid Shooter Six Barrel - Angled Barrels


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Can you identify these 2 retro bricks? A red piece with notch and steps, and a green circle
No idea about these parts. The green part is roughly 5x5, 6-01 code and old school Lego brand written on it. The red part has a notch and what kind of looks like internal steps. Thanks!

1st is a train part, Plate, Modified 1 x 2 with Steam Engine Cylinder, Round Surfaces, Interior Grooves
2nd is Fabuland Trash Can Lid 5 x 5

Great, thank you!

I thought red was a train part, but it's not under the Train category. And I never got to searching for "Cylinder". The trash can lid I should have posted about, since I have the can itself, and it says LEGO on it as well, but also has no part number, so that would've been an easy match.

@Curtis https://bricks.stackexchange.com/help/someone-answers

@RSchulz, on bricklink, if part of an element is plate like it's usually under Plate, Modified, even if it's only used in train sets...

Yeah, but I wasn't about to go through all of those. It just seemed to... train-specific.


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What set is this? Star Wars, lots of greys, light and dark
What set do these bags belong to? It is the same Star Wars set.

Could you post a photo of the other side, so we can see more of the pieces not obscured by the 4 label?

75292-1 The Razor Crest (The Mandalorian Bounty Hunter Transport)

This is all from the first large photo which has the wheels (didn't see the second large photo until after the links were fixed). The small photo perplexed me for quite a while as well, so I'm just going to ignore it now.
Based on

Light Bluish Gray Plate, Round Half 3 x 6 with 1 x 2 Cutout
Dark Bluish Gray Plate 4 x 4 Corner
Yellow Technic, Axle 7L

I'm a bit confused by this. I needed to squint (and zoom the image), but I can see at least 3 units of Plate, Modified 4 x 6 with Trap Door Hinge in dark bluish grey:

...plus one 60485 technic axle, 9L in yellow:

Performing a search for sets containing those parts yields set 75292-1 "The Razor Crest, but the parts list for the set does not include any 6x10 or 6x12 plates, nor any 4x12 plates.
There's a few sets which include several trapdoor plates plus 4x12 light bluish grey plates (millenium falcon, AT-AT, UCS super star destroyer), but none of those sets do have any 9L yellow axles.
Better photographs are needed; or, at least, clarification on the sizes of light bluish grey plates in that bag.

Edit: The new photographs have clarified the situation. The 6xN plates are dark grey (and not light grey), and the 4x12 plate is really two 4x6s. As @RSchulz has pointed out, this is indeed the Razor Crest.

Just add another bag from the same set

Ah! It's not a 4x12 - it's two pieces, but you can't tell because of the white band covering them both. I also spent a long time trying to reconcile that.

Set 70323-1 Jestro's Volcano Lair also has the trap door and axle, but only one trap door, which I didn't notice at the time, oops.


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Got this at a sale. What set is it for? Lots of greys with 4 legs
Got this at a sale.  What set is it for?
Some one knows.

This is from
7869: Battle for Geonosis

Keypart

Dark Bluish Gray Brick, Round Corner 6 x 6 x 2


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Would this be a Star Wars ship. What set would it go to? Greys but with dark greens
Would this be a Star Wars ship.  What set would it go to?

This is from :
75168: Yoda's Jedi Starfighter

Keypart

Dark Green Wedge, Plate 8 x 3 Left


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Can you help with the set identification for these items? Symmetrical greyish wings, and tan/brown internals
Can you help with the set identification for these items?

The left two assemblies are from
8095: General Grievous' Starfighter

keypart:

Dark Bluish Gray Wedge 2 x 16 Triple

The right assembly is from :
75234: AT-AP Walker

Keyparts :

Dark Bluish Gray Dish 3 x 3 Inverted (Radar)
Reddish Brown Tile, Modified 2 x 2 with Studs on Edge


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What Lego set would this building belong to? grays and red flags of different sizes
What Lego set would this building belong to?
I cannot find the logo on the flag.

I searched BrickLink for 2335p* and then restricted the color to Red.
According to BrickLink, the only set with 2335pb013 Flag 2 x 2 Square with Avatar Fire Nation Black Lines and Fancy Scroll Pattern is 3829 Fire Nation Ship


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Which Lego set do I have? mostly yellow and seems to be based off of construction
The Lego set includes one minifigure with a blue cap, a red shirt, and blue pants. It also includes a window piece, some yellow connections, a black digger piece with the same connection and wheels. The set is mostly yellow and seems to be based off of construction. I tried to find it on other sites, but couldn't find anything. The set appears to be from the 2010s, and seems to be made for younger kids, but not quite Duplo.

A photo of the more distinctive pieces may prove useful here.

Best match I can find fitting that description is set 4667 - Loadin’ Digger from 2004.

This set is from the 4 Juniors line, and features a non-traditional minifigure, larger than the iconic ones, from the Jack Stone line of figures.


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Which set contains this Bionicle part? Looks like a mohawk or some sort of blade
Which set contains this piece? I cant find anything. It looks like a big Bionicle mohawk.

This part is 20479 (Large Figure Weapon Axe, Skull Warrior):

It is present in 3 sets from 2015:

70793-1 - Skull Basher
70794-1 - Skull Scorpio
70795-1 - Mask Maker vs. Skull Grinder

It is used as a blade, weapon, or sharp edge in these sets:


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Please help me identify the Lego set
This partial build was put together symmetrically. Both sides are moveable.

Hi nnLego! When uploading pictures please do not remove the text saying "enter description here" because without it the image will not render and we won't see it, and we'll end up thinking that you  didn't add a picture and we would close your question. Thank goodness I checked!

Actually, best way is to really insert descriptions there ;)

This is the rear part of 70009-1: Worriz's Combat Lair:

Oh, we managed to answer simultaneously. Upvoted!

Aw shucks, now all because of my misleading answer I deceived the OP and he's no longer active now apparently and won't see your correct answer, all because of me. Here, I'll give you an upvote, you certainly deserve it.

@mindstormsboi Don't be hard on yourself, many new members engage in ask-and-disappear behaviour, and it's been less than a day since OP has asked the question in the first place.

I think that what the OP has done is unfair, both answers are correct but the OP just accepted only one of the two and gave an extra upvote, which means that you get 35 more rep than Alex (and you probably don't care much about rep at this point) and... I think the OP simply did not even notice the other answer. Should something be done about this?

@mindstormsboi You're right in that I don't care about rep, but on the other hand I don't really see what is the "something" that could be done about it. I could certainly delete my answer, but that would certainly bring more harm (as it is the accepted answer). I'd gladly upvote Alex's answer for a second time, if I could, so I'm open for any suggestions.

That's part of Worriz's Combat Lair (70009) set. You can see the cage between second and last axles.

Wow, answered in the same second :) Jinx! :D


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Can you help me identify this part?
After a lot of circus and calisthenics with a magnifying glass and lamp, I'm still unable to read the part number. I've also clicked thru' about 180 pages of LEGO 'Pick a Brick' and didn't find it there.
Could someone please help me identify this part number? Apologies in advance for my failing eyesight :)

This is part 11458 Plate, Modified 1 x 2 with Pin Hole on Top. Much easier to find on Bricklink than by scrolling through Pick-a-Brick. Welcome to Bricks.SE!

You did me a solid. Thanks!

That is a cable guide. you attach it to your house when you want to string your telephone or internet cable from the low-hanging utility wires. It provided tautness for the cable. I mean, not real tautness but enough so the cables don't hang.

Cable guide?? Wrong. If it was a cable guide you would be able to open the hole to attach the wire otherwise it wouldn't fit due to the plug. This site is about Lego.

You can, definitely, use this piece as you have described, but this isn't its primary use. Especially, within other LEGO items.


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60197 Passenger Train control problem
Weird problem here.
My son has had the 60197 train for about a year and I decided to try out the powered-up app for the first time today.
After what seemed to be some kind of software update, which took about 2 minutes, the app connected, but did nothing.
When I went back to use the remote that came with the train, the remote now only moves the train at maximum speed.
To make matters worse, stop does not work, instead pressing the forward or backward buttons on the remote always do the following:
First press: full speed forwards

Second press: full speed backwards

Third press: stop
...Which pretty much renders it unusable as full speed is rather unstable.
Also, channel B is now no longer working.
Has anyone else ever seen anything like this?
I have replaced the batteries in both units and have uninstalled the app and even tried with my phone off just in case something is interfering with the connection.
We are stumped!

Hmm, very strange.  We cannot solve this, so you should contact Lego's customer service at https://lego.com/service and they will give you a replacement for free. They occasionally make oopsies with their technical components every now and then, and I've had a similar problem with the Boost 17101 hub lacking connection under common circumstances.
Also, you've asked another question:

Has anyone else ever seen anything like this?

Yes, I've seen such problems before. I already said that my Boost hub has had unintentional connection issues. One person has had EV3 port power issues, and on Eurobricks some other person is also having a malfunctioning hub. Once again, Lego occasionally makes these technical mistakes every now and then.

Thanks for answering, I’ve sent a mail to Lego and I’ll post on here when I get an update from them.

Not sure if you could say LEGO always has issues like that - they would go bankrupt or stop releasing items like that all. Occasionally - sure, always - definitely not. Similar issues have happened with previous generation - Power Functions - elements as well. It is not uncommon for electronics to misbehave.

Thank you @Alex I've edited my answer now.

I thought I’d update you on the situation for anyone else in a similar position.
I got in touch with Lego via email, it took a while for them to get back due to the COVID-19 pandemic, which is totally understandable.
I received a bright breezy fun reply from someone called Ryan who said he would send me replacement battery box and remote.  Once I received these items, the train worked for about an hour and then stopped working.
After troubleshooting, I found that the connecting wire must have had a break near or inside the connector.  I contacted Lego again, and they sent me a replacement set of motorised wheels.
They asked me to send back the faulty items using a supplied label.
Absolutely awesome service from Lego.


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Are all of these police minifigs from LEGO?
While I'm glad LEGO is taking a principled stand on recent events, I've seen this set of police minifigs circulating on social media portraying the evolution of LEGO Police through time:

I don't have any trouble believing the 3 minifigs on the left are legitimate minifigs from LEGO sets, but the fourth one looks much more militaristic than I imagine LEGO would put into a set. Can anyone identify this minifig or confidently rule out it being a LEGO minifig? If anybody wants to identify the first three, that would be cool too.
My first guess was that the long gun was from BrickArms, but I didn't see anything there that has a scope and a forward handgrip. Can you identify the assault rifle?

That 4th one is definitely not an official LEGO product. I'll probably leave to someone who can identify what it actually is to post an answer.

On a side note, this is actually the first police set with minifigures although they are different from the modern minifig.

If you look closely at the second one, you'll see that it was roughly cropped out of some other photo with some not-very-good lighting.

Be aware that unofficial mods and customizations of official Lego figures is a thing. It's possible to take an official figure and add unofficial clothes/ gear/ weapons/ slogans... you can see how this could get out of control esp. currently, and that's before we even get to Photoshop.

A YMCA LEGO set.

As pointed out by others, the first three minifigures are genuine LEGO (with the second having perhaps a few custom accessories). The fourth is not a LEGO minifig. It may include some genuine LEGO elements (legs, hands, etc), but the militaristic accessories are not LEGO elements. This appears to be a custom minifig sold at one time by Modern Brick Warfare.

Not only does LEGO not include guns in their City sets, they also have much better lighting for their minifig photos than this.

100% Real LEGO™! Obviously fake

Oh! The "timeline" creator stole the minifig image from this site! That explains everything!

@mindstormsboi Indeed. I found it via Google's reverse image search.

@mindstormsboi the "!00% real LEGO" refers to the minifigure, not the accessories ;)

@Zhaph-BenDuguid That's a very good point, but there's another point to make: It says "This is the perfect minifig to add to your city!" but if you made a giant Lego city with that minifig and put it in a brickvention, everyone's gonna shoot you dirty looks and you can guess what happens next. So who even knows if that info is true or not??

@mindstormsboi "The minifigure is in NEW condition and made with 100% Real LEGO! The weapons and fear are high quality and made to last" and "The M4A1 officer comes with: 1x Real LEGO minifigure 1x M4A1 assault rifle 1x tactical helmet [...] 1x tactical gas mask 1x tactical body armour 1x tactical belt with G17 pistol" - and you're buying it from a site that produces compatible weapons and armour. The base figure is legitimate, all accessories are custom made by the seller.

Minifigs can't even hold that kind of gun properly since their arms only rotate on one axis.  Even if it's spaced correctly to fit in both hands at once, he'd be aiming sideways all the time.

@DarrelHoffman to be fair, minifig's can't really hold the legitimate musket/rifles properly from the pirates range either, nor brooms and most other two handed accessories as the hands are angled as well.

These are identified from left to right.
Series 18 of Lego Minifigures has that first policeman. Here is the exact minifigure.
The second one appears to be from Series 9 of Lego Minifigures. Here is the exact minifigure.
The third policeman appears to be LEGO Policeman with Riot Helmet Minifigure with a different head. The head might be Minifigure, Head Male Black Eyebrows, Chin Dimple and Lopsided Grin Pattern - Hollow Stud.
As Alexander O'Mara pointed out, the fourth one is totally not official Lego. It is likely this guy and whoever made the timeline did not bother to think about the excessive military detail in this minifigure (Lego doesn't even make military content anyways).

Actually, the "timeline" is quite inaccurate. The first policeman being shown was actually released in 2018, however it is most likely a reference to the very first policemen (which look almost identical). Sometimes I mix up the two minifigs by accident, and I suppose the same story goes here (or (s)he probably did it because there are not many good pics of the early police guys y'know). The second and third policemen being shown were released in the same year, 2013. And the fourth one is not even real Lego, so who even knows about when it was made??

Your link in the footnote goes to a firefighter, not a policeman. There were policemen at that time, too, really similar to the one in the timeline, like this one

@AngewisnolongerproudofSO Actually you're right, the minifig from 621 is a better example.

The only weapons I've ever found in Lego are the ray guns in the space sets and the historic series (castle/pirate/etc.).

@Joshua - Quite a few of the licensed themes also have various styles of guns in - LEGO Indiana Jones, Star Wars (although that might be covered by your ray guns), Jurassic World - see also "Rifle" or "Gun".


text:
LEGO set from these two structures
Got these but could not identify the set.

Please stop using the lego group tag for every single question you post, if you want a set to be identified you can use set- identification tag or for a single part(s) use part-identification. I have edited your post to make this change.

This looks like Border Ambush (8778):


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Please help identify this LEGO set
Got it from bulk, please help identify the set.

This is Yoda's hut from Set # 4502-1: X-wing Fighter

key part: Tan Brick, Arch 1 x 6 x 2 Curved Top

Thanks, great help.


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How do you display multiple items at once on an EV3 screen?
I'm trying to make a program on the EV3 that will imitate the shutdown process.
At first, I wanted to make my life easier by naming the program "Shutting Down" and not interfere with the display in any way, because the program execution screen looks almost exactly like the real shutdown screen, however there is one small difference. On the default program execution screen, the line underneath the Mindstorms logo sometimes has parts of it intentionally white-ed out so that it looks like two lines, but the shutdown screen always has one straight black line that never changes. So I decided to go with Plan B.
Plan B was to interfere with the display and make it look 100% like the real shutdown screen. I am a bit new to this, though, and there's one thing about displays that I still don't get. And that is how I'm supposed to have more than one item appear on the screen at a time.
Here are the things I tried:
• I put all the displays in an infinite loop block without any wait blocks, hoping that without wait blocks it will display the images at such a rate that it gives the illusion that they are being shown all at once, but instead, it acted as if I did put tiny wait blocks here and there and the screen flickered, which is not what I want. What's stranger is that they came up in a lighter black than usual, kinda like the EV3 screen was physically dying.
• I put each display block with one play block behind it and nothing else, but the result was that only one of the displays would show up.
Here's the current program, without any display tweaks (other than the completely blank screen). I doubt it will help, but I don't mind if you steal my code and claim it for yourself. It's also possible that the code is messing with the display, but again, I doubt it. Just take a look:

I know the/an answer for the nxt, so I figured I'd check to see if it works for ev3: Is there any sort of option (a checkbox, on NXT) associated with the display blocks that says "Clear Screen"?

@Brandon_J As you can see in the given program the display block has an image of an eraser and a grey checkmark underneath. This tells that the screen will be cleared, but for some reason it doesn't seem to work for me. Correct me if I'm wrong, but the eraser looks like that on the NXT software, right?

I have figured it out.
At first, I mistook the eraser icon on the display code block for a function that makes the screen completely empty. As it turns out, I am wrong.
As Brandon_J pointed out, the clear-screen function is crucial to the solution. When enabled, it removes any other images that have been on the EV3 screen before it. If I want to show two or more images on the screen, the code should look like this:

The first code block has the clear-screen function enabled (the eraser), but the second one doesn't so that the sideways hourglass that comes before it will still stay on the screen. The first display block has clear-screen enabled to prevent odd outputs like the following:

If there are multiple display blocks in a loop, the screen will also appear like the above no matter what. There aren't any wormholes for it, and even if you put random code blocks before the displays in a loop in order to reach the program execution screen, you'd still get a similar result. Thus they should be outside of loops.
Alternatively, we can use the image uploader, as user15324 pointed out. This can be accessed by clicking "Tools" and clicking "Image Editor". This allows you to make custom images for the EV3.

You can then press the Save button in the upper-left corner and name your image.

The image will automatically appear under the "Project Images" folder in display blocks. It can be used the same way as any other image.

In my case, I could've just added this small batch of code to the start of the program. It has a random code block in front of the play button to access the program execution screen, and then a line is added to cover up the existing line that sometimes partially disappears.

At the start of the program, add a block that displays a custom image that is exactly the same as the shutdown screen (To make one, go to the tools tab at the top left, and in the drop-down, press "Image Editor") also, you can make a completely blank image for the second display block.

Will try it soon. Thanks!


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Why are there always holes in Duplo bricks?
For some reason, all the Duplo bricks that exist out there have holes in their studs. I haven't seen a Duplo brick that doesn't have holes in the studs, and I doubt such thing even exists.
System bricks can actually connect to Duplo bricks with these holes, but is that the only reason for the holes? Is there is a Duplo brick that doesn't have holes in its studs (if yes then please point it out in the comments or in your answer)?
What are the other reasons for Duplo bricks to have holes in their studs, if any?

Plastic molds are designed to have an even thickness wherever possible (I think it helps with cooling), so a having a hole in the stud made sense to keep the brick's walls consistently thin. The hole could have been placed on the underside of the brick, but putting it on top had the obvious advantage of being compatibile with standard bricks.
Interestingly, DUPLO baseplates have their holes on the underside rather than the top. I believe this is because baseplates are vacuum formed instead of injection molded.

Baseplates, at least for regular sized LEGO bricks, are made using vacuum forming/moulding: "Vacuum molds work like this: a sheet of plastic is placed inside a molding machine, and two radiant heaters pass above and below the sheet, heating it until it is soft. The sheet is then subjected to vacuum, i.e. it is “sucked” down into the mold and forms the familiar LEGO studs."

@Alex Thanks I'll amend my answer.

The holes are necessary so that regular system bricks can fit on the Duplo bricks. The ratio is 2:1 in both dimensions, so you need four 2x4 system bricks to cover one 2x4 Duplo brick. This is an intended feature of the Duplo bricks and was decades ago even advertised in catalogues.
Regarding the baseplates: Some people claim that TLC does not want people to use the comparably cheap and large Duplo baseplates for their large Lego system diorama designs which would be possible if the studs were hollow...


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Connecting an axle to a stud on the ground for railings
I'm trying to build railing using axles and connectors and am not finding an easy way to get the axles that go to the ground to connect in a way that would be best for my design. Three options I've found so far is using 4032, 3941, or 3713. I like 3713 because it has a smaller profile, but it cannot be placed directly on a stud, which causes two problems: 1) the railings are slightly inside of the plate (less problematic to me); 2) I cannot cover the surrounding studs with tiles, which I'd like to do. Seems another option could be using 11458. That would also offset the railing, but I could cover the stud with a 1x1 tile. I could also use a technic 3700 or 32064, but again, offset and you lose the smaller profile. I'm wondering if I'm not missing some socket sticking straight up that would solve the problem.

While I have a rough understanding, I'm find it a little confusing in terms of exactly what the issue is. Do you have any sort of mock-up to show?

Is your railing to minifig scale? How long is the vertical axle?

For the axle with stud on one side you could also use a smaller pin connector 18654.

Here are some Ideas i came up with. I added some of your suggestions for comparrison.

Mounted on top of the plate:

4032
3941
3713
11458, 32013, 2780
30383, 30553

Mounted below the plate:

40902, 30552
30389b, 30553
32000, 32013, 2780
3701, 32013, 2780

Uli got me the exact answer I needed, but I upvoted this one too, really appreciate the effort here!


text:
Why does Pybricks on ev3dev have slow performance compared to EV3-G?
I got MINDSTORMS EV3 for my son and me. We installed Python (ev3dev) and ii seems to be running very slowly. I tried setting up the classic LEGO ev3g (block code), and that seems to run fine.
Are we doing something wrong or is Python very slow on MINDSTORMS?
Please help!
Example:
Simple program - display count and loop 100 times
Python: ~1.5s
ev3g: ~0.15s
Edit:
#!/usr/bin/env pybricks-micropython

from pybricks.hubs import EV3Brick
from pybricks.tools import wait, StopWatch

ev3 = EV3Brick()
ev3.speaker.beep()
timer = StopWatch()

for x in range(0, 100):
    ev3.screen.print(str(x) + ':' + str(timer.time()))

wait(5000)

This on the screen the last line displayed is
99:1113
this takes just over ~ 1.1s to loop 100 times

Welcome to Bricks.SE.  Can you post the python source code?

@chicks sorry for the delay. I have added the code for the python end. nothing fancy. Any idea why it is so slow?

We cannot post our answer at the moment, we are voting to reopen the question so that it can be answered. And this is actually the comments section.

Printing text in pybricks-micropython on ev3dev has known performance issues, so we don't recommend doing that in a loop. The trade off is that, unlike ev3-g, you can also print in other languages that don't use Latin scripts like Chinese and Russian. Most other things should run much faster.


text:
Can't identify venom/spiderman minifigures
I can't identify these Venom/Spiderman minifigures and I have no idea what set they're from but they are probably about 6-7 years old. I'm not sure if those are the right bottoms for Venom, but I know that the head and torso match (and one of Spiderman's hands are mismatched as well). Does anyone recognize these particular ones? Thanks for the help

These torsos are from some kind of clone brand, not Lego

I think they come from this Megabloks set