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I bought a LEGO set from a yardsale and have no instructions, box or date
I want to find out what LEGO set I have so I can get some instructions for it. I'll add some pictures of the pieces as that's about all I can do.

I hope this is enough for someone to be to figure out which set this is.

For some reason it took the rest of my pictures away. Tell me if you need more and I'll try to add them.

Does the raft have any decals or printing on it?

No it is just all blue except for the spot in the middle.

Ahh, it's blue - the picture makes it look black.  Dark blue right?

If the boat is dark blue then the set is almost certain to be set 60069-1 Swamp Police Station since according to Bricklink it is the only occurrence of the boat (part 62812 Boat, Rubber Raft, Large) in dark blue.
The presence of the bars (parts 92586 and 60621) with white frame[s] (part 60596) and light bluish gray radar disk thingy (part 4285b) confirm this theory.
However, I was unable to identify the large black piece near the top-left of your picture, or find something similar to it in the set's inventory.  Is this a single piece?  If so it is probably not part of the rest of the set.

I don't know what that piece is. From what I've seen that's the only one I got in the container. But thank you very much for finding out which set it is. I am really excited to find some instructions and build this. Building is something I love And I love lego so this really made my day! Thanks again!

@EPICPOPTARTNINJA  That's odd, I'm pretty sure it doesn't belong with the rest of the set.  Now you have me curious!  Can you find a part number on it?  (BTW, if this answer has sufficiently answered your question, you can mark it as accepted with the green checkmark under the voting buttons.)


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What is the best way to sort LEGO bricks?
I live in Hungary. I have tens of thousands of bricks at home. Over 1000 sets plus bricks. Most of the sets are sorted and packed separately, in their original boxes if they can with a box. Unfortunately some sets were mixed and kept in cardboard boxes. i. e.: 15 Harry Potter sets all mixed in a big box. The problem is that LEGO changed the colors in 2004. I must sort all parts according to color and type first. After that I can start putting the sets together from lists.
Is there a good way you know for physically sorting parts according to color, shape, etc?

This isn't directly an answer, but I encourage you to read the Evolution of LEGO Sorting: http://news.lugnet.com/storage/?n=707

Thanks a lot. I enjoyed it very much. One difference is that I stopped buying new sets. It is like quitting smoking. I managed it. At least for the last year or so.  I am planning to spend the rest of my summer sorting, boxing.

I don't think this is a duplicate but you should read this other question: http://bricks.stackexchange.com/q/6064

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Unidentified LEGO 6 bag set dated 2007, sand, dark grey, and dark red pieces with small dinosaur statues
There's six bags here dated 2007:

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Most parts are from 7627-1: Temple of the Crystal Skull, based on Wall Element 1X6X5, Abs and Limb Element,
There are also some parts from 3315-1: Olivia's House is the photo's, like: Wall Element 1X6X5, Abs, Fence 1X4X2 W. 4 Knobs & Flat Tile 1X4.

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Identify classic City sets from box of assembled parts
I have quite a few models: a gas station, airports, police station, and a lot more including a battery powered cart. They are all built on gray road baseplates. I also have trees, benches, people, police cars, others cars, and a service station or fire department

From left to right in your first photo:
Police Station (6384):

Fire Copter 1:

Motorcycle Shop (6373):

Fire Patrol Copter (6657):

Fire Station (6382):

Your second photo includes:
Gas Station (6375):

Delivery Center (6377):

Paramedic Unit (6364):

I may have missed some smaller sets, but based on your two pictures, that's what stuck out at me.

Oh my childhood ... endless hours with that Fire Station :)

There might be a https://brickset.com/sets/6634-1/Stock-Car in front of that police station (first photo), albeit with different (red) wheels.

@O.R.Mapper That's certainly possible.


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Strange 2x2 Inverted slope with hollow center Identification
I have a brick that is similar to a 45 degree inverted slope 2x2 except where the un-sloped flat face should be there is a rectangular cavity into the brick
   _______
  /   ____|
 /   |
/     ----|
--HH---HH-

that is a rough cross-section of what it looks like where the H's represent the studs on the bottom

Does it have any numbers on the bottom?

no, but now that i look closer it has the letters TY and an infinity symbol.... TYCO perhaps....

Could be one of the bricks used at section 7 and 9 of this Tyco Super Blocks set:

Source: http://bricker.ru/instructions/download/Tyco%20Super%20Blocks/5281-2.pdf


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DeathStar maintenance
I have a LEGO Deathstar and have already built stage one of four. However, I haven't been able to get to it lately and it has become rather dusty. How should I clean it? And I travel a lot, so is there any way I can carry it with me by flight without dismantling it?

@StephaneDelcroix : Hahaha thanks. Funny that Darth Vader is cleaning the Death Star ;)

Which Death Star?
Either way, I can't imagine trying to travel with either Death Star model that LEGO has produced.
Removing dust can be done with a mini-vacuum or some sort of blower, like a hair drier. Canned air is advised against as it has icky propellants that get on your bricks.

Ah Alright. By the way, why was this marked as duplicate? I understand that the method is similar... but I asked for a travel case too.

@Artemisia - It's better to ask two single questions especially when they are very distinct, rather than have one question with two very different aspects which might result in two people answering each part, and no real way to mark either one as "the answer". For some suggestions on transporting models, see this question

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How to put LEGO together upside down
I'm building a truck. For the transmission, I want to make it all even and symmetrical.
To do that I need the pieces to stay together but they have no studs connecting so they will just fall apart.
Does anybody have any suggestions to keep them together besides using the light saber shaft?
This is the main chassis for the truck.
This is what I want the transmission to look like, but it's quite big so I want it smaller. As you can see, the arch bricks won't go together this way so I need an idea to keep them together.

There's a couple of suggestions in this question where people have answered the opposite of the original question.

Technic bricks can easily be attached with the studs in different orientations. Or minifig hands can be used to attach plates back to back with no gap if you don't need a lot of stiction.

I attempt to create a searchable index of SNOT techniques, as this is called. Of those, the strongest 180 degree stud reversal are probably one of these:

If you want to connect the two curves together bottom to bottom, you should be able to do it with an axle, sort of like these two techniques:

If that doesn't work I once had luck playing around with a lever and a rubber band. It was tricky, but it did work:

I think this is how we did it as kids. However, it was 1970s. Probably too primitive, clumsy, or against the rules now.

You can build a similar design which I find is stronger (but slightly larger) using cheese slopes and a plate and brick of the same size. It can also be built with two plates and cheese slopes.

@Ambo100 Post that as an answer, it's the best one here!

Generally, the lampholder plate does the job:
http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=4081b
but some idea of the scale you are working in will help get a better answer, or if you can post a picture of the model you might get a specific answer.

In addition, you can also use technic pegs to join bricks base to base.  This is an, 'illegal technique,' however, as forcing the peg into the tube will weaken/bend the plastic slightly and make it weaker in the future.

While Windfire's suggestion is valid, there are several elements with opposing studs.
Many of the parts listed on that link don't apply, but several do, including the first five.
If you're not clone-averse, Cobi makes some great plates with studs on both sides, though I have no idea where you can get them aside from buying entire sets known to contain them.


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Fixing poorly applied stickers
Does anyone have any tricks to removing a sticker and reapplying, after a significant period of time?  I recently purchased a lot of sets from 2000-2010 range, and the stickers look like they were applied by my 4-year old, while blindfolded...
I'm dealing with sets like Town Plan, and Joker's Ice Cream Surprise, so purchasing new stickers is not an option, and unfortunately stickers really make the sets in these two instances.  I'm hoping someone has experience with using a glue or something else to repair the adhesion.

Yeah, new stickers are not an option.  At the time of this posting, there is 1 lot on BL for Joker's Ice Cream at $200.  Frustrating...

Unfortunately older stickers are difficult to remove and reapply because the sticky part of the paper tend to rip off and leave a residue on the LEGO element itself. But the fact of the matter is that applying that taking off and re-applying even a new sticker is a challenge and it will almost always be visibly damaged at least a little bit.
Your best bet is just to get new stickers. You can find pretty much any sticker-sheet LEGO ever released all the way back from the beginning, and many times in new condition. In fact several Bricklink stores specialize in selling old stickers.
Just go to Bricklink, type in the set number and look at the inventory listing. The sticker sheet will be included there. Then see which seller have it at what prices and choose the one you like the most.
Here is the general listing of all LEGO stickers: http://www.bricklink.com/catalogList.asp?catType=P&catString=160

To remove stickers, I use lighter fluid.  However, it can damage plastics, and I've never used it on LEGO bricks before, so please test it first.
Apply the lighter fluid to the sticker, and use a sharp metal object (like an X-Acto Knife) to slowly pry the sticker from the brick.  You will probably have to regularly apply the lighter fluid as new parts of the sticker are exposed.
Once removed, set the sticker grahpics-side down a piece of newspaper or other disposable surface.  To restore the stickiness, spray the back side with spray glue or spray adhesive, available in most craft stores.  Now, immediately reapply to your bricks.
CAUTION:  chemicals like lighter fluid, Goo Gone, spray adhesive, etc. can damage both the stickers and the plastic bricks.  Test this process with an unimportant brick first.


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Bluetooth will not connect Error code: -142016
NXT 2.0 Error code: -142016
The Bluetooth does connect. I am not having these issues with any of my other Bluetooth devices running off of the same dongle.
Where do I find the meaning of any other error codes that I may encounter for the NXT?

Are you running Win7 64bits?

Or just Windows 7 - there are some compatibility issues with some of the software and Windows 7.

You say that you are using a Bluetooth dongle.  The problem might be with the dongle itself; I would recommend that you borrow a friend's and see if that works.

LEGO's Bluetooth support page has a limited amount of support for Bluetooth errors. It mentions further Bluetooth support can be found in the user guide on:

Pages 36-45 for NXT 2.0
Pages 28-37 for NXT 1.0

Where can I find instruction booklets?
You may also get in contact with LEGO's customer support.

Your NXT may need to be reset, then the Bluetooth may work. I've found with other devices that sometimes helps. Or maybe you'll need a new NXT. Sadly they are very expensive.

For such a small problem you shouldn't just buy another NXT, especially if it's the PC or Bluetooth dongle that is causing an error.

Yes you're right.


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Apart from the LEGO brick, is there any other hardware that has an NXT firmware written for it?
I am trying to find out if you can upload LEGO NXT byte-code to any other hardware, so I am just checking to see if anyone has ever written the LEGO firmware for any other hardware. Maybe hardware like an Arduino, Raspberry Pi, etc.

I doubt that, and to be honest I'm not sure it has any interest - the NXT firmware is tailor-made for the NXT, and there are enough people replacing it with something else to show that they don't even consider it very good to start with - so why would anyone to port it to something else is a mistery to me.

There is a huge community built around the NXT-programming software. Now imagine if I could code for the NXT using any of the many (robotics oriented) programming tools for the NXT then upload it to cheaper and more extensible hardware? Wouldn't that be a great idea?

The huge community may not be as huge as the programming communities for Arduino/Pi/etc. That said, most of the NXT programming community uses other firmwares to start with. I'll grant you that the idea is intruiging, but I honestly doubt anyone has considered going in that direction yet (feel free to do so, I'm curious ;-)

LEGO itself does not make specific firmware/software to support other devices other than the official NXT brick but...
...you can still use Arduino and Raspberry Pi (and more) with the NXT components including the NXT brick.  Personally, I mix LEGO and electronics all the time.
Arduino & Raspberry Pi are flexible development platforms and they can easily be interfaced with other devices. Also, the NXT devices (i.e. The Brick or peripherals) can be interfaced by something else than the official LEGO hardware & software.
On the other hand, the effort needed to run the LEGO firmware (probably through an emulator...) on a new device is way harder than to interface the systems.  Remember that this is a firmware and it expect to run on the exact device it was built for.
Arduino & NXT:
There is a lot of Arduino-NXT hardware components that you can buy or even make yourself.  For example you could use this Arduino shield called NXShield-D and it's software.
RaspberryPi & NXT:
Pi is still relatively new but, since it's a full computer, it is very easy to use.  To interface with NXT you can use the GPIO pins but thanks to the USB port, somebody already made the NXT-python to control the NXT brick.

But in none of these cases has anyone made an Arduino/Pi firmware which would be compatible with the one on the NXT, right?

Exactly right. There is no LEGO NXT firmware that works on other devices than the original LEGO NXT brick. Since @frazras was also interested in accessing the wealth of hardware available in the generic electronic community,  I've added a couple of alternatives.


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Lego set for 17 year old
This might sound a little bit silly, but I'm 17 and I've never built a LEGO toy, so I was looking for a first one, to see what it's about. What sets would you recommend I should look at, that are complex enough for someone my age not to get bored?
I wouldn't really get an NXT, because I don't want to program a robot, I just want to build something, and I think an Arduino would be cheaper and more complex. Bionicle and Architecture seem interesting, but Technic looks like the most complex of them all.
So... what sets should I look at?

I've found the technic set with lots of moving parts, gears, and power functions are the most challenging and the most fun.

You're probably the only one who can answer that question, but here are a few thoughts anyway.
If you're interested in mechanic complexity and how machines work, Technic is indeed a good way to go. And as you hint, it can evolve into robotics, whether with a NXT or with anything else you fancy.
If you're after building complexity, I wouldn't recommend the architecture sets. The few I build weren't very challenging, and I find their price a bit on the heavy side. The bigger ones (21005 - Fallingwater or 21010 - Robie House may be more challenging, though.
However, sets with a high number of parts will usually mean the build is more complex. For example, 10214 - Tower Bridge has 4287 parts, and if you compare its price with the 2276-parts Architecture Robie House, you'll find it much more interesting.
Similarly, the various modular buildings also have high parts counts and are fun to build and display afterwards; plus, they go well together when you get the chance to have more than one.
As an aside, notice the "display" aspect I mention is important too - what do you want to do with the set you'll end up buying? If you're after replay value (creating new things constantly, the Creator theme has great sets with good play value, which are reasonably priced.
On the other hand, if you're concerned about your set keeping some value, or if you're a fan, license sets may be a good choice, especially Star Wars which also has some very big and complex sets.
Last, keep in mind LEGO also give age ranges for its sets. They're estimates, but a set marked 16+ is likely to be more challenging to you, so you'll want to look for these. You can easily browse the sets by age on the online LEGO shop, and even set limits for price and number of parts.
In any case, whatever you end up buying, don't hesitate to come back and share your own experience.

The two in the Architecture set are ones I was looking at, also because of the high parts count. I didn't know about the Tower Bridge, though, which does seem very interesting. About what I'm going to do with them after I build them, keeping them for display is what I have in mind at the moment, which is why I really liked the Architecture set. I guess I'll look at more Creators and Technics, then. Thanks for the input, it's greatly valued!

It's an interesting question.
As Joubarc stated there are multiple approaches here. But from my personal experience I would recommend a graduated approach into the Lego Technic.
You should start with the sets on this page to see it you can find any kind of interest and to ensure you are not simply discouraged by the Lego Technic models.
If you enjoyed the simplest models at least a bit, you shouldn't stop until you have built the most challenging ones. The reward in completing and discovering them is way higher. To me the most enjoyable model was the 8880 Super Car replaced by the more modern 8070 Super Car. Although the new 9397 Logging Truck seems to beat it when it comes to complexity and functions.
But first you should try some simpler and yet enjoyable models. I know people who like the racing cars more than anything else. I like anything with good and interesting parts/mechanisms. If you like the construction vehicles more than the cars you will find a few good sets. The 8043 Motorized Excavator being the coolest construction themed set for me.

Architecture set - White House.   This is the first lego I ever built (got as a gift from wife).  Loved it.  Right amount of pieces, right amount of time - ~3-4 hours.  Enjoyable time well spent.  Recently disassembled with help of a brick tool, packaged it up and sent it to my brother so he could enjoy as well - he was a lego kid, I missed out on that when I was a kid.


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Will Lego repair a bad motor?
I have the Electric Technic Micromotor:
http://www.peeron.com/inv/sets/5119-1
and it simply won't come on. I seem to recall at some point someone telling me a long time ago, that if you sent parts to Lego, they'd repair them. Do they have a warranty or lifetime guarantee? How would I go about getting it repaired?
I also have several of the Electric Technic Mini-Motor 9v, probably about 8-10, and three of them aren't working. Anyone have any success fixing those?

The LEGO customer service does provide replacements for defective parts, but only for parts which are still in production. Sometimes you'll need to send the broken part back to them. They don't repair the parts as such, just replace them.
As for the micromotor, you're out of luck as it's not produced anymore. They might provide another motor as a replacement, but that's not going to help you much.
Your next option is to buy a second-hand one, for example on Bricklink (service pack or motor alone)

Thanks so much! I didn't realize the "still in production" part, appreciate the link.


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Is there a standard scale for building "minifig scale" creations?
I've seen many impressive models built to "minifig scale" (e.g. the enormous USS Harry S. Truman aircraft carrier), but is there a standard (or at least widely adopted) scale e.g. 1:60 that these models obey?
It seems any scale based on the height of a minifig won't work due to the fact the minifigs are not well proportioned for people. For example, I stand taller than my car (as do most people) yet trying to build a LEGO car that is less than four bricks high would be extremely difficult and result in an unusual looking model.
Are there any tips on choosing a scale that allows well proportioned looking models, that doesn't dwarf the LEGO minifigures that ride in/on them? Is "minifig scale" dependent on the type of model (vehicle/castle) or generally deemed to be whatever looks about right?

Indeed, most cars are 4 or 6 studs wide, but to get two minifigs next to each other you really need to be at least 8 wide.

Here's an article on a related topic — Lego train width — which anyone who finds this question interesting will probably enjoy: http://archives.indylug.org/blogs/jeramy_spurgeon/archive/2006/11/02/The-Great-LEGO_AE00_-Train-Width-Debate.aspx

Here's another train-related note: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Scale_model#cite_note-0

It's usually 1:40, based on the minifig size.
However, keep in mind that a minifig doesn't have the same proportions as a full-size human being, so scaling from real-world to minifig-world is not an exact science. Just have a look at LEGO cars, you'll see that they don't really match real cars.

Minifigs don't have the same proportions as average humans. They are comparable to a 600 pound male. Based on minifig height,  the scale is about 1:45. Based on minifig width, the scale is about 1:32. If you're making a building, you probably want to follow a 1:45 scale. If you're making a vehicle, you probably want to go with a 1:32 scale. One rule of thumb I read is that each pip equals about 1 foot.

I think what is interesting is that buildings are usually scaled to things other than minifigures.
For instance, a aircraft carrier would be built to airplane's scale, not the actual minifigures.
Most buildings are scaled to the size of the LEGO doors & windows.

Minifigures are not to scale. Lego has a greater emphasis on play then realism, so every thing is scaled to suit the minifigures.


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Is it safe to remove PC (polycarbonate) arms from minfigures?
I would like to replace the clear PC arms on the Chima ice figures with opaque ABS.  Would I still be able to use the clear PC arms with other figures after I have removed them?
I know that removing and replacing arms makes them slightly weaker and can only really be done once, what I am interested in is the relative durability of PC and ABS in this regard.

The clear PC arms are more brittle, however you should be able to replace them at least once, since the torso you are placing it into is ABS - so there is a bit of a give/flexibility on that side.
One thing to be careful of, is when you take out the PC arms (and when you put them in a new torso), do not hold the arms by the hands! This will put pressure on the wrists and can make the more brittle PC plastic crack. Either hold the arms further up, or even better, take out the hands first, then the arms. Hope this helps.


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How to build a car that stops at a certain distance?
I want to build a small car that is about 200 grams. I want it to run the following course and stop at exactly or about the finish line. I can't use any controlling devices or electronics.

I've an idea to count the number of revolution the wheels make to pass the finish line and the next time I stop it when it hit's it last wheel revolution.
Is there a device that can stop a wheel after a certain amount of turns? It must be mechanical and it doesn't have to be supplied by Lego either.

Ah, September, when the USA kiddies go back to school and start posting their homework questions.

Well, I'm not from the US and this is not a homework question. Even though I'm good with maths I'm extremely bad at construction so that's why I'm using legos.

Here's the simplest way that I can think of to stop the vehicle at the finish line. You'll need basic LEGO Technic parts and a good length of lightweight string or thread.
Create two reels for the string. One should be connected to the wheels and the other may turn freely. Wind all the string onto the reel which can spin freely and attach the other end securely to the reel on the wheels so that it will wind up the string as the vehicle moves.
This mechanism should prevent the axle from turning after the vehicle has traveled the desired distance as long as you measure the string appropriately.
Here's an example:

Here's a similar model built in LDD showing exactly how this is put together:

The reel on the back axle will pull all of the string off of the center axle and then stop when the string runs out. If you wanted to be fancy, you could use some math to calculate how much string you need, or you could just test it to find out.

how is the string going to stop the wheels?

I added an extra image to my answer to try to make this a little clearer for you. I'll be honest though, since this seems to be for some sort of educational assignment or competition, I don't want to give you a complete perfect answer. This is the basic concept. You'll need to adapt it and improve it to work for you.

The general concept is that the reel on the wheels is consuming string from the other reel as the wheels turn. Once there is no additional string left, the wheels are forced to stop turning (or break the string).

Thank you. How long did it take you to come up with this?

You're welcome! It didn't take long. I've seen this sort of thing before.

Cool, like an old cassette tape!

You might consider this cheating, but here we go:
There exist Lego wind-up motors:

With the number of turns of the key you should be able to control the distance rather precisely – unless the device gets too much momentum from the slope.


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How do I organize all my LEGO bricks and parts?
I have a massive amount of LEGO laying around in a container. It's kind of hard to sort through whenever I need parts. I was wondering if anyone has experience with many different sizes of LEGO bricks/parts and how to organize them. This seems like a problem most LEGO enthusiasts will have at some point, so is there some kind of "best practice" for a sorting scheme? What's the most suitable container to store LEGO in? Is there a common box that enthusiasts use? Do people often make their own box?

As you mentioned sorting and storing LEGO does become an issue as you start to amass a massive collection. There are however great solutions worked out already by LEGO fans. The earlier you set up a storage system that works for you, the better, and the easier it is going to be to manage your projects, and also stay enthusiastic in the hobby. Here are a couple of articles I wrote in regards to the topic, laying out what LEGO fans use and ways to get you started:
How to sort LEGO: http://thebrickblogger.com/2010/12/how-to-sort-lego/
How to store LEGO: http://thebrickblogger.com/2010/12/how-to-store-lego/
In addition, I have been maintaining a couple of Flickr Galleries where people show off their LEGO storing and sorting solutions. Seeing how other people sort and organize their LEGO can be very helpful, especially as your collection grows.
LEGO Display & Storage Ideas Gallery 2: http://www.flickr.com/photos/akunthita/galleries/72157629813455752/
LEGO Display & Storage Ideas Gallery 1:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/akunthita/galleries/72157625185890950/
You don't have to spend that much to set up a good system. What it requires though is to think through what you want and also what kind of space you have. The above information should get you started with ideas and solutions, and you should be able to get yourself organized easily.

Stack Exchange frowns on link-only answers because links may die, and that causes the answer to be useless once they do. Without clicking those links, I get close to zero information (aside from the fact that the information does, or did, exist) from this answer. Strongly recommend summarizing each of the links you offer, so in a worst-case-scenario there is still something useful here.

@KRyan but if "The BrickBlogger" loses interest in its blog, it is unlikely to care about this answer. So why would it bother working to make this answer useful in that case?

@Mσᶎ Uh, cuz maybe he cares about this community and making it the best of can be?

@KRyan right now that's possibly true (its pattern of link-only answers suggests otherwise, however). My point was that your request is future-oriented, "in the future if you lose interest in your blog the links will become useless", but in that even they'll also likely lose interest in this site. The willingness to spam links into duplicate questions is also bad.

I appreciate the concern, however I would add that sorting and storing LEGO is a dynamic process - besides just the basic separate by colors and/or parts. There is no absolute answer that will forever pass the test of time. And there are always newer and better storage solutions becoming available. This is why I added a link to two galleries I curate on flickr featuring solutions people come up with. I felt that this was more useful than just saying "you should sort this way". Yes, one day flickr, TBB and even this site may disappear, and we will all die, but the answer is relevant for now.

In addition, the OP selected this as the best answer, which means that they found it helpful for their purposes. Isn't this is what this forum supposed to be about? Helping each other out instead of just being an encyclopedia of dry information?

Sorting LEGO bricks is more complex than you might think. Frequency of use, shape of the brick, and communication with others are essential features of a good classification. Have a look at this book, it covers the sorting of LEGO bricks extensively: The Ideal Order

A lot of people prefer wide, shallow boxes to store parts — because it allows you more surface area to see what's in there. A Dollar store is a great place to get cheap storage containers.

Well if you need to organize your collection in a neat way that is easy to get to, I would use tackle boxes that you would normally use for fishing, because they come in all sorts of sizes and shapes and it can be easy to organize your collection in a neat way.


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Where can I buy big quantity of the same block?
I have a decoration project and for that I need almost 10.000 2x4 blocks (same color or not according what I would find).
Do you know how/where I can buy such a quantity ?
News  or 2d hand... I do not mind :)
I got on BrickLink, but I did not find it very easy to use.

If you want specific quantities of specific parts your only two real choices are BrickLink or Lego.com's Pick-A-Brick.
Searching for any color of 2x4 brick in quantities of at least 10,000 on Bricklink you can start from the following URL: http://www.bricklink.com/search.asp?pg=1&itemID=264&sz=50&searchSort=P
You'll then need to click the "Show More Filter Options" link and put "10000" into the "Min Qty" field and then click the "Go" button. You'll probably see the same result I did, which is that the only sellers who have that kind of stock are in Europe, which might not be an issue for you, at a minimum price of ~$0.13USD.
Checking Pick-A-Brick (http://shop.lego.com/en-US/Pick-A-Brick-ByTheme) the price per part direct from LEGO for the 2x4 in most colors is currently $0.30USD.
Those really are pretty much the two simplest options. However, for a quantity like that you might want to consider contacting some of the larger BrickLink sellers directly. They can often be very helpful when trying to run down this kind of an order since BL requires that they list their inventory by color, but they may be able to do a quick calculation to determine if they have enough on-hand from the various colors to be able to make a bulk deal and maybe, if you're lucky, maybe even get a deal on it.


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Identification for harness/hose/pipe + wings
I'm still trying to follow the instructions mentioned in my last question, and I came upon this image:
.
Does anybody know what piece/pieces that/those are on the right? (I know the # for the pistols.)
Also: the wings on the right:
.
All the wings I found either had holes for pins or were too big.

It's 30191 Strap 12 M:

This is listed as x169 on Bricklink and Peeron, and is also called a stretcher holder, as that was it's original use when it was first created in 1998:

Edit: It's acceptable and even preferred to post new questions to identify new parts. With that said, the wing part in your updated question is 15082 Animal Wing with Shaft:

any ideas for the wings in my updated question?

Thanks!  It looks like Brickset has better fuzzy searching, I'll have to try that next time.


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Please help identify Star Wars set - I have some very specific dark grey wings with brown paint
Please see attached pic, I reckon these are part of a Star Wars ship. Can anyone help me identify the set?

These pieces are indeed Star Wars related, they are from 7957 - Sith Nightspeeder from 2011.


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NXT Display is messed up
I have an NXT 1.0 and the LCD display only displays noise.  Anyone know how to get one replaced or repaired?

There is a great video on YouTube that shows how to repair this.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eCZNc7tPop0
Basically, there are some surface mount capacitors on the PCB board for the screen/buttons that need a little bit of soldering to make sure they are properly electrically connected.
I have performed this repair myself with success.

Awesome, I'll check it out


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Need help identifying this set
These came in a clear bag labeled with the number 2.  Dated 2011.

Was it 10667 Construction? The date is a little off, but the parts look right.

You beat me by 1 minute! Anyways - all bags have a date of 2011 on them - I guess that's when the current set bags design was made. I have a couple of recent (2015) bags with exactly the same number.

That looks right! You guys are awesome. Thank you!

As @Kramii already said, this is LEGO Juniors set 11067 Construction. Specifically the bag that makes the crane, without the Octogonal base plate (which was likely supplied separately in the box). Based on the picture Kramii posted you can see how to build this part of the set - you put the 6x6 black plate in the wrong place in your picture, it needs to be at the top.


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Large trap door - alternative to door with frame 4595708
I need to build a large trap door, the trap door 4x5 with frame 6x8 is too small for my model. Other doors/hinges seem to have too much resistance and the door doesn't fall by itself, it must be rotated. Do you have any ideas as to which parts I could use? I thought I could use 3 of these doors together, the problem is finding the right counterpart.

This hinge combined with a technic pin lets you easily make large trap doors. You can see a train-track-sized trap door in this model using two of these parts. In this model the trap door falls down when you retract an axle that normally holds it up. Other arrangements are possible.
The beauty of this particular hinge is that it is symmetrical, so there aren't two different halves to keep track of, and you can use any kind of technic pin you want. The relatively long plate on it makes it sturdier than some of the older variants like this one.

@Ana You're welcome. There are, of course, infinitely many other ways to do it. But this is using one of the newer, available-in-stores techniques. And using different pins to hold the plates together allows you to have looser or stiffer trap doors.

You can build your own trap door from System and Technic pieces. Use plates for the surface and frame (maybre reinforced by bricks if necessary), and attach one or more (depending on the weight and size) Technic joints underneath. I have no pieces with me at the moment, so I can't show you, but if you need clarifications, I'll look up images of the pieces I'd use.


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What is the name of this almost triangular shaped 3x5 Technic beam?
Okay so, I've been on BrickOwl.com for the past day or two, trying to find the names of the pieces for a LEGO GLaDOS that this guy made because he doesn't give the names, at around 12:50 he uses this piece:

and then he also uses some pins shortly after. Does anyone know the name, number, or a place I can buy one or two of the piece and/or the pins?
Or do you have a BrickOwl wishlist with all of the items on it?

That piece is called a Triangel: http://brickset.com/parts/6010864
You can buy it from the Lego store (no direct link, but it is element id 6010864).

I think the spelling on Brickset is wrong. Bricklink calls it a Triangle lift arm.

It's called a Triangel on the Lego store as well.

I call it a hanger piece, to me it looks like a clothes hanger.

The piece you are looking for is 2905 Technic, Liftarm Triangle Thin. There is similar Technic piece with similar looks and same functionality - 99773 - Technic, Liftarm Triangle Thin, Type II
Difference is clearly seen on this image:


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Help finding Star Wars set, 8x8 grey cone with white end
Bought a bulk lot of LEGO with no instructions. I have one piece I can't locate the set for - any help would be great.

Based on the one picture that did come through, you have set 9490 - Droid Escape from 2012.


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Identifying two BIONICLE parts, white and dark grey curved shell
What are these two BIONICLE pieces?

These are Bionicle parts, specifically the back spine of the 8588-1 Rahkshi Kurahk.
The individual parts are:

http://brickset.com/parts/design-44140
http://brickset.com/parts/design-44139

Adding to zovits' answer, you also appear to have a Part 44136 attached to the Part 44139.


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What is this 1x2 hinge brick?
What are the two pieces that make up this hinge and brick?

That's a 1x2 hinge brick. Here's a better image of what you're looking at:

This is part 3937 and 3938. Here are the two parts viewed separately:


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What's this weird blue 8-long thin hinge piece?
I've spent several hours on BrickLink now trying to identify this mystery piece. It doesn't have a part number on it, only the Lego logo. It looks kind of like a hinge or something that might snap into a doorway, but I haven't found anything similar. Can you help me?

It kind of looks like a window. Could you snap it in to a window holder?

The hinge is to large for the snap holes in a standard-sized 4x3 window.  It does snap with pieces like this, however.

Pictures in focus!  That is so amazing.  Kudos to Martin for including high-res in-focus pictures.

This is part 4218 Garage Roller Door Section without Handle:

As you might imagine from the name, these can be connected and used for garage doors as seen in Century Skyway, for example:

Wow! I´m impressed. Thanks so much for your help :-)


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Looking for instructions for brick set #135149, silver robot head and black police vest?
I have part two and part three of the this set and I am pretty sure this set has to come from the "Lego Movie" series. The reason I say is because one of the bags has one or two of the secret police robots in it. Can anyone help identify this set? I can't find any info on any of those sets in that series.

Welcome Tyrone! FYI, that set # is just the part number of the plastic bag, not the real set number.

You are looking at 2 bags from set 70808 - Super Cycle Chase. This is the only LEGO Movie set that has the robo SWAT cop head, the fence, the white 1x2x2 panel and the 1x4 plate with 2 studs in it.

There are 3 other sets (big enough to have a bag 2 and 3) that have this particular robot police officer head in it, namely:

70819 - Bad Cop Car Chase

70807 - MetalBeard's Duel

70815 - Super Secret Police Dropship

But none of these have the additional pieces as shown in the picture.

Oh man! Thank you Phil! I believe it has to be the first one with the car chase because there wheels big enough to fit! You have saved my Lego building experience!


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Identification of a piece, 1x1 bar piece with studs and handle

Sorry for the small image, but does anyone know what number that piece is?

This is 4599b - Tap 1x1 without hole in end.


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Bracket identification, 1x2 plate with 2x2 sideways overhang
I would like to know the name of these pieces.

The grey one (not the one with the towball socket)
(edit: found, it is 6009014 "Bracket 1 x 2 - 2 x 2") and the green one, they're similar but the grey one have the studs on the "inner" part, I think.
Edit: Found the grey one, still need the green.

The pieces are Bracket 1 x 2 - 2 x 2 and Bracket 1 x 2 - 2 x 2 Inverted. The grey piece is actually the inverted one.

The numbers should be printed underneath, then it's just a matter of finding the right colour e.g. look up part 44728 on BrickSet.com and you get http://brickset.com/parts/design-44728, then I'd say the right colour was dark green giving you http://brickset.com/parts/4212471


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How many mystery collectiable minifig bags to buy to get them all?
There are 16 distinct LEGO minifigures in a collectible series. They are sold individually in "mystery" bags so that you cannot tell which one is inside.

To get all 16 minifigures, what's the expected number of bag purchases I need to make?
For simplicity let's make the assumption that the probability of a single bag containing a specific minifigure always is 1/16.
In fact, you may sometimes be able to buy a case with 60 of these bags, guaranteed to contain the complete series. And you may swap figures on the Internet. Let's ignore such options for this question.

Well you might need to add in how many you pick from a certain box, or is it a mix of 10 boxes, this all would increase the probabilities etc. I think using a bred new open box (which should contain min 2 full sets) you should be able to work out the math there I just feel the bags and 98% of the time get the one I want and if I have the time ill feel for a whole series in one hit from a Lego store and get a good 90% of the series (like the recent disney ones)

@Adam Mann Pro: Where I purchase these bags there are hundreds of them mixed in big boxes. And I don't have the talent to "feel" the contents with my fingers, hence the assumption that what I get is truly random.

your odds seem quite high then, as they might be the duplicates from many boxes. if you were looking to sell them people are still willing to buy them opened (with all bags, accessories etc) as they will be guaranteed to get the one they want.

There are lots of folks on ebay who will sell you a complete unopened set.  I bought one and it was complete and the bags were still perfectly sealed.

Even if you can feel out a couple of figures, that can increase your odds of getting a complete set quite considerably. For example, the wedge-shaped "skirt" of many female figures is often easy to identify. The short, non-jointed legs are only a little harder, as are accessories like 2x2 tiles. I recommend giving it another go: you might surprise yourself.

55 Bags
If the distribution is assumed to be completely random (not necessarily true), and of a large enough group to make your purchases not effect the total probability (likely) then this is an alternate of a classic math problem known as the Coupon Collector's Problem:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Coupon_collector%27s_problem
There are many discussions of this and other probability problems in the Mathematics Stack Exchange.
Avoiding all the maths The answer for 16 individual units is 55.
If they have a case of 60 with a guaranteed full set, personally I'd buy it rather than depend on the random distribution of bags.

This is a great explanation of the maths. Note, however, that the distribution of figures is not completely random: there are more of some figures than others.

I agree it wouldn't be random, but it was an assumption listed in the question itself. Without knowing the actual distribution there is no way to solve the problem without making some assumptions.

16 Bags
I know the question was phrased as a sort of math problem, but most LEGO fans solve it as a sort of LEGO problem. The bags are opaque, so you cannot see what's in the bags, but almost everywhere they are sold you can feel the bags, and you can determine what figure is in the bag. With the exception of the recent Soccer Team figures, collectible minifigures are always unique in terms of what parts are in the bag. Just shake and squeeze the bag until the distinctive piece is found.
The problem with the math way: One can compute the probability of, say, picking two matching socks out of a drawer of miscellaneous socks, or of picking a whole collection of figures out of a box of figures. But there are a few complications:

Someone else has been there before you and squeezed the bags to find all the space marines.
Someone else has been there before you and grabbed a few at random, but then squeezed a few more bags to find the Princess.
The store takes what's left from the first box and jams it into the second box when the box runs low; or they don't even display them in the original box, making it impossible to know how many boxes are in play and how many figures have been picked.
There are usually 16 figures in a collection and 60 figures in a box; this means the figures cannot be evenly distributed. Some series have had as few as two of one figure in the box. Given that, it's entirely possible (though unlikely) to pick 58 figures and miss both of that elusive Unicorn Girl.

If squeezing the bags isn't an option, the only way to be sure is to buy a new, unopened box.


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How many BIONICLE store display tubes were created?
I'm an avid BIONICLE collector and am curious as to how many unique store display tubes were created during the lines original run. To add some known information to my question I know there was a Tahu Nuva display tube very early on but then there seems to be a gap. I hear there may have bee a Rahkshi display but have never seen it if anyone can confirm this? From 2005 every line had a tube produced including TWO for the Piraka for some reason. But I'm curious about the missing years. Toa Mata, Bohrok, Bohrok Kal, Rahkshi, Toa Metru, Vahki, do any of these have store displays? Or is it something that only started in 2005 and Tahu Nuva was an exception (as photographic proof exists of this one!)
Anyone with any knowledge on this it would help to fill a gap in the line's history! Also, where are the new 2016+ store displays? I've seen a single Tahu tube and a Tahu display case but nothing outside of that (except I believe a case of skull villains?) Are there any more being produced?
Here's a link to better explain what I'm talking about : http://www.bzpower.com/board/topic/18801-retail-items-topic/

As it turns out, a Rahkshi store display tube does exist and was recently re-discovered.
The following display tubes are known to exist.
G1
2002 Rahkshi Panrahk

2003 Tahu Nuva

2005 Hordika Vakama

2005 Visorak Keelerak

2006 Inika Jaller

2006 Piraka Hakann

2006 Piraka Vezok

2007 Barraki Kalmah

2007 Mahri Nuparu

2008 Mistaka Lewa

2008 Mistaka Lewa and Tanma

2008 Mistaka Tahu

2009 Glatorian Gresh

2009 Glatorian Mata Nui

2009 Stars Tahu

G2
2015 Tahu

Others
2001 Onua Sculpture
(Technically a display tube, but a brick sculpture rather than the set.)


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Which parts are these? Large yellow and orange pieces with Technic pin holes
In an effort to identify sets in a second hand random LEGO collection we bought, we found some really obscure parts. Do you know which parts these are? Thanks!

The two parts on the right are Cockpit 6 x 6 x 5 with Hinge (30619). These have been used to make cockpits in LEGO Juniors and other very simple, low-part-count sets such as 4652:

The part on the left is Engine Block 4 x 6 x 2 with Wedge Cutouts and Technic Holes (45407). It is used to make up the front section of the tow truck shown above and has been used in similar ways in a few more sets in different colors.


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Need help identifying a couple of Lego sets, grey tank with 4 short legs, and ship with long wings with lime green tiles
Do you recognize either of the below Lego sets?
We received them as a hand-me-down gift with no instructions.
Thanks for any help!

Top set is indeed 75013 as per @lego-related username's answer.
Bottom set is 75024 HH-87 Starhopper.

Top set is number 75013, Umbaran MHC (Mobile Heavy Cannon). I think the previous owner modified the cannon, because the actual set looks vastly different up there. I don't recognize the bottom set, but it looks like some star wars set.

The second set is 75024-1: HH-87 Starhopper


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Help identifying Lego bag without instructions, brown, grey, and clear bricks
Can anyone help identify which set this bag comes from?

This is a bag from the Minecraft set First Night (21115):

Ooo... that brings back good memories.


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Advice on where to start
I've seen this (http://petapixel.com/2013/04/12/check-out-this-lego-slr-and-its-lego-camera-strap-and-lego-strobe/) and really want to build it but cannot find instructions anywhere.
I can see the obvious parts but where on earth would I start with the bits that are well hidden away? Has anyone got any ideas of how it could be done? Is it just a case of playing around and seeing or can someone provide elusive instructions that I've not been able to find. Before you ask, yes I have contacted the designer to no avail.
I don't have enough of the right colours to be able to play but guessing software can do that but does that produce a list of bricks I can then buy? Not played with it before.

Have you tried messaging RGB900 on brickshelf.com?

@VolleyJosh I would if I knew there was a messaging system on there. Where is it?

I do not have much specific advice for the building of the model, but to get the pieces to physically create it, I can help with.
BrickLink will be the superior tool for you to be able to create this model yourself, and then buy the pieces for it. If you don't already have a BrickLink account, you can make one at this link:
Bricklink Registration
Stud.io Download
Once you have done so, click the above link and download their beta program "stud.io" which is a brick-building software that is very similar to Lego Digital Designer (a program originally released by TLG). It is more compatible with BrickLink than LDD, and you can link your BL account to stud.io.
Once you build a model in stud.io, you can easily upload it as a 'wanted-list' to your BL account that includes all the parts you need for your model that you created in stud.io. You can follow the steps on BL to get your parts in the most convenient fashion. I have found this to be cheaper and quicker than any other alternative (unless, of course, you have a massive collection of Lego pieces).
I hope that helps.

Thanks for getting back to me. I hadn't heard of Stud.io so will give that a shot. I guess its just going to be a case of sitting and analysing all the images and slowly building it all up. Thanks for your help though

authors: Бронислав Мяновский


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How to connect chain links in LDD to make tank tracks
I need help trying to connect chain links (in LDD) around a set of idlers and drive wheels. This is to be used on a tank design, and therefore is not using actual chain. It is using "Chain Link m=1" connectors, as well as there being 2 drive wheels to mount on. I have tried many different ways, but none of them worked.
Here's a picture of the tank and its threads

Can you explain what hasn't worked?

I tried extending the cross axle far enough so that I could add a technic piece. This piece was said to have the piece needed to join the links together. But that didnt work. I dont know the exact name of the piece though.

Are you talking about a  real physical model that doesn't fit, or are you asking how to select the piece you want in a 3D modeling application? If it's the former a photo or two would help.

Im trying to connect them in LDD

LDD does have some problem in making tracks that fit onto a bogey set. I think there may be some videos out there that might deal with this issue.

This issue is one of LDD's most prominent shortcomings. Unlike other CAD software, the simplifications that LDD makes in exchange for ease-of-use restrict some creations from being assembled with any degree of ease. However, the treads in this model are possible to apply, although I cannot say how easy it would be to get them the way you would want.
A quick search from more experienced LDDers on YouTube turns up that the process is very redundant and tedious. Each link must be adjusted individually, and when needed, certain gears must be turned to accept the chain. However, getting the initial link on the system requires a crafty Technic device used to mount a five-hole tread to a bar suspended just above the gear in question. From this five-hole link, the smaller links can be added, as shown in this video.
I tried the process myself and while it is painfully difficult, the end result is achievable. Here is a photo with the Technic system in place, and another after I removed it and added the correct link.
Of course, I had to try this in real life where dexterity is on my side. I ran up the exact construction as I see it in your provided picture and have determined that the perimeter of this design falls just over an even multiple of links. Twenty-five links are just barely too short to connect at the ends, and twenty six is much too baggy to stay seated on the gear teeth.
For another example of adding treads in LDD, you may also want to see this time-lapse video. Hope this helps and happy building.


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Drive motor via Power Functions IR with own power source
I want to see if it is possible to drive a Power Functions motor both with variable speed and forward/reverse with my own power source. I am planning to use my own power source, an IR receiver and a motor.
[Power Source] -> [IR Receiver] -> [Motor]
As I understand it, the pin out for Power Functions is as follows:

GND
C1 +/-9v
C2 +/-9v
+9v

Which of the above pins would I need to power to achieve this?
Do I need to provide a constant 9v to the IR receiver for it to function?
Can I rely on the IR receiver to vary the speed of the motor?
What would happen if the IR receiver was powered with less than 9v?
My power source may not always spin fast enough to develop 9v so I am wondering what would happen in this case.
P.S. I am returning to this hobby after 25 years so not entirely up to speed on how all of the new "stuff" fits together!

Which of the above pins would I need to power to achieve this?
You would apply the (-) side of your power source to GND and the (+) side of your power source to +9v.
Do I need to provide a constant 9v to the IR receiver for it to function?
Generally, yes. However, lower voltage or suddenly losing power will not harm the part.
Can I rely on the IR receiver to vary the speed of the motor?
Yes. The IR receiver handles the speed regulation.
What would happen if the IR receiver was powered with less than 9v? My power source may not always spin fast enough to develop 9v so I am wondering what would happen in this case.
I haven't tested this, but I would expect it to lose range, provide less power to the motor, and at some voltage level under 9V completely stop functioning. This shouldn't cause any damage to the part.
It sounds like you are powering this from some type of generator. Make sure that you have protection in place to ensure that the IR reciever isn't power by significantly more than 9V.
Welcome back to the hobby! If you're looking to simply interact with PF motors at a low level, the control lines are simply attached directly to a 9V motor, so you can use those much like the old 9V motors. The basic motors aren't steppers or anything complicated.

Thanks for the fast reply. From what you are saying the C1 & C2 are not used in this case. I guess the IR receiver pulses the received current (PWM) to drive the motor. I was wondering if it needed a constant 9v to do the pulsing. Seems not. So in theory I could provide a 6v input, and provide both variable speed and direction control to the motor with the setup I have described?

The IR only needs power. It will generate the C1 & C2 signals. IF (and that's a big IF) the RF works on 6V, and 6V drives the motors, then yes, it would work. Also, please check out Philo's excellent documentation on the Power Functions protocol and characteristics.


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Toys R Us - Frankenstein (Oct 29, 2016)
Anyone have a copy of the instructions for the Toys R Us - Frankenstein figure that they gave away on Saturday, Oct. 29, 2016? I attempted to visit the store but the line was wrapped and they ran out. Was hoping to get a copy of the instructions and build requirement to build on my own.
Thanks!

You might also enjoy this youtube of one going together.

Got these from a helpful friend over at BrickPicker.com:

Thanks for the upload! And sharing the site, I will have to check them out.


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Why remote controls are seldom used in Technic sets?
(As of Jul 2016) According to this, it mention that currently there are a total of 376 Technic sets. However, this information mention that only 6 of them have the remote control function. This means that only less than 2% of all Technic sets have remote control.
Is there a particular reason(s) why remote control are seldom used in Technic sets?

Price is most certainly a factor

Many Technic sets are small and wouldn't fit motors or need remote controls.
Beyond that it is an extra expense which they need to leave out to make things available at various price points.  In some cases LEGO makes the motor optional to keep costs for the initial kit lower.  And the remote control adds complexity beyond that.
But the beauty of LEGO is that you're not stuck with their designs.  You can add these features yourself if you're motivated enough.


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From what series is this brick? Duplo machine piece with yellow button, copyright 2007
We have ten of these, but I don't know from which series! When pressing the yellow button it makes a sound that could be a train or a tractor or something like that. We are curious. Does anyone know?

It doesn't look like any Lego piece I've ever seen. Does it have Lego written on it anywhere? Are there any numbers written on it? Any other angles?

I have updated the question with more info on the sounds it makes, and with an image of the back.

This is a Duplo Sound Effects Brick 2 x 4 with Water and Pump Sounds (Set 5605)  brick from 2008. It featured only in 1 set, 5605 Tanker Truck.


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Help identifying which set this bag is from? White plates and Technic panels and transparent red circle plates?
Can anyone help to identify the set that is shown in the photos?
They were in a bulk lot of LEGO - so no manuals, no box.
Thanks!
Dale

Having a bag 4 implies a larger set so there should also be bags 1-3 and maybe 5 and up.  Do you have those too?  Or just bag 4?

Hi Chicks, I only have bags 3 and four (unopened). There may be some of the other parts in the bulk lot (already opened).

Given the transparent red Plate, Round 4 x 4 with 2 x 2 Hole, white plates, and trans-blue Windscreen this is set# 76028 Darkseid Invasion from the Justice League series.

Thank you very much! I will go through the lot and see if I can find the other pieces. I downloaded the instructions so will have a go at assembling the set.

My pleasure.  :)  Happy LEGOing.


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What is this piece? 4x4 ring with studs, anyone have a clue for part #?

This is simply a ring with 8 studs on it. Anyone know what it is or what set it's from? Can't find it anywhere on BrickLink. No part number visible anywhere on the part. 1x2 tile on the side for extra size perspective.

It's the face plate for a Lego watch. There's a couple different watches this particular piece could have come from, including this Darth Vader watch and this Luke Skywalker one. I'm unable to find an element or design ID for this part though.

This question is now three years old, but I was looking for this part too.
It's Watch Part, Case Attachment - Bezel Ring with Studs (bb1008).

Note for future visitors: this answer is not a duplicate of the earlier one, as that incorporated information provided only later in this one (the bricklink link).


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Need help identifying this Star Wars set from about 2005, white and dark red triangle ship?
I need help identifying this Star Wars set. It was probably released about 2005. The complete kit is about 11 inches long:

It's a dusty 7143 from 2002, but the minifigure is not there.

Thanks so much!  I've got a whole box of lego people so I'm sure I've got the figure in there somewhere.  It's covered with the hydrogen dust of interstellar space ;)


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What set(s) are these 2x2 hexagon bricks from?
I've inherited quite a few interesting pieces from relatives who outgrew LEGO. Any idea what set(s) these came in? They don't have any numbers so I can't look them up on pick-a-brick or anything.

Do these bricks have any "LEGO" markings on them? The most obvious place would be on the studs of the blue octogonal piece (2nd from the left). So far I haven't found anything yet that matches so I'm wondering if this is perhaps a clone brand ....

yes, they all have lego markings on them.

You have the following pieces:

6037 - Brick, Modified Octagonal 2 x 2 x 3 1/3

6043 - Brick, Modified Octagonal 2 x 2 x 3 1/3 Corner

6042 - Brick, Modified Octagonal 2 x 2 x 3 1/3 with Side Studs

6032 - Brick, Modified Octagonal 2 x 3 x 1 2/3 Sloped

These were used in about 10-15 sets during a brief period from 1995-1998, most of them in the Aquazone theme, but some made their way into other themes as well (e.g. Castle).

Those are modified octagonal bricks numbers 6037, 6042, 6043, and 6032.
http://www.bricklink.com/catalogList.asp?pg=3&catString=7&catType=P
The blue corner pieces (6043) are only from set 6190-1 Shark's Crystal Cave

The others are likely from the 2162-1 Hydro Reef Wrecker


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Identification of vintage sloping window piece
I'm trying to identify the yellow one, the red 60598 ones are for reference.

This is definitely Lego, it is written in the hollow studs. It does not have a part number underneath, only an 01 and a separate 3. I can’t find it in any of the usual databases.
The yellow I’m trying to identify is 1x4 at the base, 3 bricks tall, leans back by on row at the top but is slightly wider than 4 studs at the top approx 4.5 so the overall dimensions are 2 x 4.5 x 3.

Looks like a LEGO Fabuland windscreen...

On the hint from Uli I was able to find it:

(All credit to Uli for the find :)

Must be

Fabuland Front Window Squared Small, Part x652 on peeron.com

(image source peeron.com)

We must have posted at nearly the same time.  You didn't post an answer after about 10 minutes so I ran with your hunch. Nice find, I had no idea this existed.

@JohnnyB photo finish in fact : ) couldn't find it on bricklink in time, that's why I checked peeron, too. took me some minutes...

It's called "Fabuland Window Squared Small", with part number fabai1 on bricklink.

Looks like part 4447 window 4x4x3 Roof.

It does look like it, but part# 4447 has squared corners and indents/holes for glass. The part in the picture has rounded inner edges and no indents/holes.

And this is not that bit wider at the top.


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How is this kind of structure made?
Recently I found a MOC made by Headzsets from Instagram, in particular this interesting structure from his EVA work. Here is a picture of his structure:

(https://www.instagram.com/p/BtCymDRHJx6/)
How does he have two 1 x 1 x 2/3 slopes like this? Are there any sets with this kind of structure that I can buy on the market so I can learn this building technique?

Just to add a little to the answer by TheBrickBlogger, the blue piece holding the purple 1x1 slope is likely this one:

Here is a really simple example of one of the many ways this can be accomplished:

The hollow stud allows positioning to be "jumped". Hope this is helpful :)

Thanks JohnnyB.

How can I add two answer as “answer”? Yours and brickblogger’s answers are both very helpful

@Tasca Qiu - You can't choose more than one.  Normally it would just come down to whichever answer you feel helped you the most.  If you feel more than one answer is eligible for "correct", then choosing the answer posted first would be more ethical in my opinion.

The black cheese-slope is attached to the stud below, and the purple cheese-slope is attached to the upside-down stud above it. The two cheese slopes are not attached to each other, but are held in place by the studs and the other pieces around them.
Cheese-slope techniques have been extensively researched by LEGO fan Katie Walker, who is well known for her cheese-slope mosaics. Her research into the techniques has been used by many other LEGO fans and also published in books.
If you would like to understand the techniques better, I highly recommend the following article by Katie: Cheese-Slope Mosaics: A Tutorial It includes extensive explanation of the techniques as well as pictures with demonstrations.

Thanks! That’s exactly what I need!


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How to disassemble LEGO train engine base part# 28743?
I have one of the new Bluetooth engines (part 28743, but in the bottom it says Hub No 5 model) that has started to under-perform and make some noises, I think that it need some maintenance (maybe due to cat hair) and I need to disassemble it.
The thing is that I can't see the screws properly. I think they are Torx ones but I don't know what size they are. Can someone provide the size and model of the key I need to acquire to take it apart? Any other advice is welcome, Google was not helpful.

This seems to be part of the sets 10874 and 10875. 28743 is apparently not available as replacement part. FCC info is available at https://fccid.io/NPI28743. PCB photo (source). MCU from that photo: https://www.ti.com/product/CC2640

"Push & Go" Patent (source). What was the cause of your problems and [how] were you able to repair the unit?

@handle it was indeed cat hair. After removing it, the unit started to work properly

Here are some disassembly pictures and tips.

Tools needed:

Either a precision flat-head or Philips screwdriver: There are two flat-head/Phillips hybrid screws that hold the the battery cover down. These two screws do not come completely out the battery cover.
T9 Star Key: There are six T9 star screws.  Four on the corners of the housing and two hidden inside the battery box.
Magnets:  Not required but helpful to keep the screws from getting lost.

The train has a headlight construction with two floating pieces that will fall out.  There is a proper way these pieces go back in, so it's possible not to notice their right orientation.

The clear transparent piece has a "wave" that swells up to encompass and sit directly on the light element. So, the "wave swell" humping up is the top of this piece.
The white headlight diffuse has two squared off "vampire fang" tabs.  Those tabs are the bottom of this piece.

Note: When reassembling, the white diffuse piece and the clear transparent piece have to be together FIRST, then TOGETHER, they are dropped directly down into it's spot.  I found it difficult to put them in separately.

Wheel inspection: I would start with the heavier, but easier to access back wheels.

The positive and negative wires are still tethered to the board, but...

... it just flips up and out for an easy looky-look.

Now to get at the floating front wheels, first we need to flip up the circular speaker.
There's a green rubber button that sits in there too.  See the top lip of the green thing?  That top lip sits on top of the wheel's axle bar. When putting the wheel and axle back in, it's easy to poke it around reposition it back in it's place, so don't worry too much about it, just don't lose it.

Now it's time to gingerly pry up the green circuit board.  When I was taking this apart, it seemed like there were two black tabs holding the board down, but I think those tabs are there to just keep it in place.
The two big (+) positive and (-) negative globs of solder seem to be doing double duty, both as electrical terminal points and as screws to keep the thing in place.

Now be careful.  Look at the above picture.  See the angle I pried up? Just enough to squeeze the wheels and axle out.  Look again at those metal diode stalks coming down from the board at a 90 degree angle.  Those are the bulbs for the train's light/color readers.

This next picture shows how those light/color readers look from underneath next to Mr. Green rubber button.

Good Lord that's detailed!  Even though I will probably never need this information (no Duplo trains) I appreciated the step-by-step instructions. A++ for the effort :)

Thanks for the detailed explanation which helped me. Now I need to remove one of the propulsion wheel that is "slipping". Do you have any clue how to remove them from their axel.

Hey, there.  Sorry it took me so long to get back.  Had to get some food/things before the forced curfew... Anyway, look the picture below, and tell me which wheel(s) are slipping, so we're both are focused on the same part.  Tell me (01), (02), (03) or (04).   https://i.sstatic.net/0zVjP.jpg

@RinRio-Oki I started a new thread to make things easier to discuss. So we can talk of it there : https://bricks.stackexchange.com/questions/13425/how-to-disassemble-the-propulsion-wheels-of-the-lego-duplo-train-engine-base-par

I was able to remove the screws properly with a Torx T9 screwdriver from our Duplo Train Push & Go Motor (28743).

I don't know if it helps, but there is a video about opening the train:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BjTmENxCRrQ

Hi charger and welcome to Bricks.SE! You have an exceptionally nice video linked, but as you can see in the [help] and [tour] pages, it is considerably better to provide a brief description about the contents of the video. If you have pictures to add, they improve the post as well :) So in order to turn this link-only answer into a great answer, could you please edit it and provide a description of the process? Thank you!

Video is private and unavailable :( Any other source for the video?


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Finding a Piece with a Picture
I have been trying to find this Lego Piece for a while now and I just can't seem to find it. I saw this Lego Warthog MOC on Youtube by hachiroku24 and wanted to build it, but I can't seem to identify the main part of the turret. The piece is the black one in the lower middle and I can't seem to find it anywhere. Anyone have any ideas?

Here's the video URL for a better look at the piece:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vg2NBk0SaIY&t=1s

I skimmed through the video, that's a pretty awesome build!  Hope you find the part you need :)

The piece is question appears to be part# 15071, via Bricklink:

https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?id=123914#T=C


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Grey Clone-Brand Brick With a Single Short Tube on the Bottom?
I've had this brick for a while, and I've long wondered what it is.
It's a LEGO-compatible 2x4 brick, colored almost exactly the same as the old medium grey. There are no identifying marking, and the only marking of any kind is a single line on the bottom, which I assume is a 1.
The most distinguishing feature is that it has only 1 tube on the bottom, and it doesn't reach all the way down.
I originally found it in a bucket of otherwise genuine LEGO pieces years back, so no clues there.

I'm quite certain it's not a genuine LEGO piece, but it is an odd piece and I've long wondered what it's from?

I don't know about this clone piece, but on original pieces the tubes at the bottom are not conical (and from the picture it doesn't look like that here either), so please don't call them cones. When I saw the topic I struggled a lot to imagine what you might mean.

As luck would have it I stumbled upon your answer today sorting through my own mess. It's a Tyco brick. Although the picture doesn't show it, the one I have has a white sticker with the word "DANGER" in red on one side. Hope someone finds this useful.

What you have is indeed a "Tyco" brick. Probably from the mid 80's. I use to have a few of them. I think the great bricks like that were adapter bricks for Tyco's version of Duplo.


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Gluing small parts with hairspray?
Someone told me about a "myth" that you could glue LEGO pieces together with a solidifying hairspray like Tresemme stuff, or similar firm hairsprays (that ones that solidify your hair and dry out fast)
Id rather not test it on a random brick to know, but I have a few sets of rare limited edition model weapons (Like Actual Silver versions of LEGO Ninjago weapons and other such common rares, but I also have some extremely rare things like the gold-plated minifig katana)... And I keep losing the pieces to them (I usually find them but still!!) And Due that I'm only using them for collection (not play) I don;t need them to be seperable.
Keep in mind, I'm not really applying this question to my 1 piece rares or my metal minifigure items. I also have some old limited edition plastics that no longer "exist" and they tend to be weapons and pieces made from multiple small pieces.
Is something like hairspray a workable method (Ive heard its similar to those "bead glues" that you see on TV where you make plastic beads, and spray them with something and they stick together...
if this isn't a good method to go about with this, Perhaps a better method that's not expensive nor messy, but works well and looks good.
I plan on later getting an artist to line them up and put them in Epoxy resin, but for now I need a glue method (For bragging rights :3)

Hi Taylor! Could you please expand on your reluctance, why are you unwilling to try this method with two common, easily replaceable pieces?

@zovits I dont have common pieces. I only collect rares or exceptionally popular pieces (Red darth vader helm, purple ninja ghi, silver METAL weapons, etc)

AFAIK those "bead glues" work on a completely different principle where the sheen on the individual beads is a water-activated glue and so the finished piece needs to be sprayed with just clean water to adhere the beads together.
There are a number of "weak glues" known which could be worth a try:

thick sugar syrup (naturally water soluble, thus removable)
a mixture of baking flour and water (similarly water soluble)
from this answer comes a recommendation for the "Spray and Play" glue, which can be found for sale online but whose website has since gone rogue. Probably due to the negative feedback received on Amazon.

Of course, for any of the above I'd recommend trying with a few pairs of expendable bricks, whose total cost might be lower than any one of your prized collectibles.
Another avenue would be to increase the clutch power to prevent the separation of the pieces. For example you could place thin pieces of paper, saran wrap or tinfoil between the LEGO pieces that need to be held together. The additional material will prevent the pieces from returning to their original shapes, this tension will make accidental separation harder. And if you get the size of the insert small enough and the placement precise enough, nothing will stick out from between the bricks and so the insert will not degrade the display value.


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Lego Technic 60C01 Clutch Gear Bore size
I was wondering what the bore size is off the 60C01 clutch gear as I was unable to find it anywhere. Also, what is the pitch of such gear?

Had to buy one to check the specs. The Bore size is just under 4 mm (~3.5 mm) in diameter. Without the teeth of the clutch it is just under 5 mm.

Outer (hub): 6.8 mm/.268 in./ 17/64 in.
Inner (shaft): 4.9 mm/ .193 in./ 25/128 in.
Teeth (key): 3.32 mm/ .1305 in./ 17/128 in.
-These are close/approximate, not exact due to the tolerances and/or wear. I measured 4 different gears with a digital caliper and the measurements were all within .10 mm of the listed measurements. The measurements even varied slightly within a single gear depending on side and orientation.
Also, I think you can find the answer to your second question about pitch here: "What is the "Module" of a LEGO gear?"


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What 1x8 ski part is this?
I looked through the usual places BrickLink/Rebrickable. I can't seem to find what part this is. It has no markings other then Lego and LEGO Group. I seem to remember it going to a set where this singular ski part goes in the front.

This seems to be item No. 2823

Technic Forklift Fork (white)

It was part of four sets:
6342-1 Beach Rescue Chopper

6545-1 Search N' Rescue

6401-1 Seaside Cabana

6663-1 Wave Rebel

All images bricklink

Thank you so much! 6342 is the set I think..


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What is up with Jack Stone's legs?
A recent question regarding identifying a Jack Stone minifigure included this surprising picture of the back of the minifig.

I was totally amazed by this because I had never seen a minifig with a leg pattern like that on the back.  Was this unique to this figure for some reason?  What could you do with this that couldn't happen with normal minifig legs?

As TheBrickBlogger has already pointed out, all of the figures from this theme are very different from a normal minifigure:

The backs of the legs on these figures are made to interface with Lego studs for seating purposes, which is probably fairly obvious.  So, I am assuming that the holes with narrow gaps between them may be the focal point of the "unique shape" you mentioned.  At first glance they appear to look very much like Key Hole Hangers, which suggests they may lock into/onto something.

But, after closer examination of a clearer picture, you can see that these slots provide clearance for the leg hinge assembly instead.  This extra range of motion is well fitted for a theme based on "Action" scenarios. It probably provides some stress relief on the parts at the pinch point also:

The details on what can be done with the legs gets much more to what I was looking for.  Thanks Johnny for finding some really helpful pictures too.

The LEGO 4 Juniors figures (also called Jack Stone figures) are significantly different from regular LEGO minifigures. They are much larger, and are not intended to be taken apart like regular LEGO minifigures. They are closer to the LEGO DUPLO figures in this regard with non-removable head, torso, arms, legs, etc.
Having said that, if you remove the head with a hobby knife (yes, you have to cut through the plastic), the rest of the body can be taken apart into smaller components. Take a look at the picture below to see what a disassembled Jack Stone figure looks like. Source: http://thebrickblogger.com/2011/02/lego-4-juniors-minifig-customization/


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Problem-shooting on 8070 "Super Car" with Power Functions
I have recently bought a used Lego Technic car (8070 Supercar). It was not fully built, and from the instructions I learned that it was fully built except for approximately the last 10 steps. I finished it and now there are some problems.
I assume the motor is not the most powerful for this heavy model, but it is not even possible to open the hood or the doors easily*. I have to sometimes touch the wheels to allow them to open. This leads to the second uncertainty: If the switch for example is in position "hood" the wheels also are moving. But in a video clip I saw them open without the car moving.
I want to locate the problem with the least effort. Worst case for me is to completely de-build and then have to rebuild new. Maybe this model has known weak points I can check first?
(Please comment if you need more information or pictures!)
(* I used new batteries ^^)

If built according to the instructions, the wheels should not be powered at all. The only motorized functions is opening the hood, doors and spoiler. Moving the wheels should not affect these functions, nor should the wheels move when operating the functions.
So my guess is that someone did a poor attempt at modding this model and you'll have to deconstruct the model further.

So you say in the regular model the motor has no connection to the wheels? This explains the "weakness" of the Motor

Yes, that is correct

Thank you for the answer! :) but I see me railing against you, when I will sitting between hundreds of small parts ;)


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What's this Colour?
Blue on the left, unknown in the middle, dark turquoise on the right.
It's got a slightly greener tint than dark blue. Do you know if they change the color over time? It's like this on the entire brick, so I assume it's not faded.
I've tried every possible color on Bricklink and a couple color guides, I'm lost.

The color of the 2x4 plate and 1x2 jumpers in the photo appears to be regular Dark Blue:

The greenish tint you mention is likely discoloration.  Here is an example of a discolored regular blue piece (right) next to a fairly new regular blue piece (left) for comparison:

How uniform or consistent the discoloraton is depends on the cause and/or whether the piece was assembled when it occurred.

I should have included that for comparison, but unfortunately its not.
Its got a slightly greener tint than dark blue. Do you know if they change the color over time? Its like this on the entire brick, so I assume its not faded.

@Zach Turley - Based on my experience, blues brick of all shades can turn a dingy greenish color with age, sunlight or excessive heat. The shade of green, of course, depends on the shade of blue.  I have just recently treated some discolored dark blue bricks (among many others) with hydrogen peroxide, heat and a fluorescent light with very good results.  There are a variety of methods using hydrogen peroxide to restore plastic color. A quick Google search will help you find instructions if you're interested.

Greenish accent on blue bricks appear due to so called "yellowing" process. It happens a lot with older bricks. So they get more of yellow/brown tint over time. I do believe the color you are looking at is Dark Blue [BL]. It is just bricks got yellowed.

@JohnnyB Thank you for the update and great answer.  I didn't realize that heat/age would be another factor instead of just sunlight: the bottoms are identical in color to the top, so I believed discoloration was not the case here.


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Brick 2 x 2 cash register and tile 2 x 2 tape recorder sticker
Recently after leaving my Dark Ages, I bought a bulk lot of LEGO and these parts with stickers were in it and were the only ones I couldn't find.
Is it possible to help? I used Image Search Options Firefox add-on but no luck.

Though it is difficult to see given the quality of the pictures, but I do not believe these are official LEGO stickers. I cannot find any trace of them on BL, definitely not on the bricks in you pictures.

Assuming these stickers are applied to the correct parts, you can search on Bricklink in the following categories: Slope, Decorated and Tile, Decorated (these links start at the pages where 2x2 slope and 2x2 tile first appear, respectively).
I didn't find anything looking like yours, which can mean one of three things:

I didn't look hard enough (there certainly are a lot of decorated 2x2 tiles)
These are not official LEGO stickers
There are official LEGO stickers but applied on wrong parts.

I'm leaning towards them not being official stickers, but there's no real way to be sure until we find where they are from.

Thanks. I've used BrickStore, than selected "Part" and "Slope, Decorated". In the filter I used "45 2 x 2" and skimeed through all pages and couldn't find, so most likely it was a custom sticker.


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What does the +/- dial in the Lego Defender model do?
Lego today released a video showcasing the new 42110 Land Rover Defender model.
The video captions mention that it has “Lego Technic’s most sophisticated gearbox to date”, and we see 3 seemingly related features.
The first two are fairly typical levers for “hi/lo” and “?/N/R”, ie gear selection and direction.
The other is a dial labelled “+ -“:

What is this dial for?

Based on a comment found in the overview on Brickset, and that all of the others levers and their function seem to be accounted for, it seem very likely that it is the transmission gear selector.
-UPDATE BELOW-
From Brickset:

"A new transmission system has two levers for engaging high or low
  ratios and a selector for changing gear – LEGO Technic’s most
  sophisticated gearbox yet."

Source: https://brickset.com/article/45677/introducing-the-technic-land-rover-defender
In other words, the transmission gears 1-?, rather than it's selection D/N/R and transfer case Hi/Lo.  The transmission looks too complicated to just be directional switch (D/N/R) and 1 gear range switch (Hi/Lo).

I have no idea how many gears it has, or if I am even correct.  It's all just speculation based on my observations.  Either way the set looks amazing!  I'm a sucker for vintage cars and all things 4x4.
Just confirmed from Lego.com:

Opening doors allow access to an elaborate cabin with a working
  steering wheel, detailed dashboard and a new-for-October-2019
  transmission system with 2 levers for engaging high or low gear ratios
  and a selector for changing gear – the most sophisticated LEGO Technic
  gearbox to date! The interior also features forward-folding rear seats
  that give visual access to the 4-speed sequential gearbox.
https://www.lego.com/en-us/product/land-rover-defender-42110

So it's a 4-speed transmission, nice!

Wow! I didn’t think it could be anything like that due to the ease with which it appears to rotate!

@JamesThorpe - Maybe a worm gear type setup?  Lego continues to amaze me with the complexity of their sets.

Could be - one of the stills you selected from the video has this orange piece in it - looks to be a way of activating the neighbouring gear lock via rotation rather than the usual reciprocation of a lever

I assume it's one of these - seems it's also been in the Bugatti last year.

@JamesThorpe - I honestly didn't even know that existed.  The Bugatti has yet to be squeezed into the budget.  Now I'm all sorts of curious about the transmission in that thing.

I'd forgotten about its paddle shift until I looked again earlier - now I'm wondering about the innards of that gearbox too...

The actual designer of the set has an overview here. Skip to 1:24 for the innards...!  (The +/- is definitely gear change!)

@JamesThorpe - Nice!  Thanks for the link :)


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How to prevent PF M-motor from springing back
I'm currently building a car with a simple 2-speed remote controlled synchronized transmission, shifted by a PF M-motor.  Everything is fine except for one thing, the transmission driving ring is disengaging under the high torque due to the changeover catch going too far.
I have added parts blocking the catch from going too far, but when I stop sending current to the motor it spring back somewhat, disengaging the driving ring. Are there any ways of preventing this effect, or do I have to use a different motor altogether? Any help would be very much appreciated.

It sounds like the motor is "winding up" from drivetrain deflection.  Lego parts "give" a little when stressed and therefore store some energy like a spring.  This is likely being caused by the high speed of the PF "M" motor.  A picture of the assembly would be very useful in determining a solution.  Without seeing it, the simplest fix would be to gear down the motor.  Given the fairly high speed of the "M" motor output, I would suggest doing this with a worm gear assembly.  A worm gear will greatly reduce your output ratio to the driving ring while also giving you more precise control that is less susceptible to back-tracking from deflection wind-up.
Here is a photo demonstrating how a worm gear can greatly reduce output ratio in very little space:

Another potential solution, if you have the part, is to affix a linear actuator to the "M" motor.  It would have the same benefits as the standard worm gear:

One last thing... Which version of part# 6538 are you using?  6538a & 6538b have ridges that allow the drive ring to "click' into place.  If you're using part# 6538c then swapping it with one of the others may be all you need to fix your problem.

A picture of your build would be appreciated to help reduce speculation.  It would also be nice to see this just for the "neat-o" factor :)

I'll try the worm gear solution and see if it works, though it will increase the time needed to shift. I'm actually not using the old 2L driving ring, but the new 3L one with the 3L axle joiner with ridges. I'll see if I can post a video about it on YouTube.


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Is there a database of images of LEGO pieces without a background?
For a project I am working on, I need pictures of individual LEGO pieces, but with a transparent background. Does such a database exist?

I was unable to find any sites with a decent database of images in the file format you are looking for.  I don't know what your experience is with image formats or what type of related editing software you may have access to that could help you obtain them yourself.
 If the list of parts isn't extensive then manually converting them is an option if you have the knowledge and software.  There are a lot of sites like Rebrickable & Brickset that have an excellent database of parts with neutral backgrounds that would make a crop & conversion fairly easy.  If there is a pre-existing database available that someone else answers with, I too will benefit from your question.
I did find this site that has online functionality and has the tool you need to convert pictures.  I tried it out first to make sure it worked and it certainly does.
https://www194.lunapic.com/editor/
Here is an example of the trial I did with a picture from Brickset. Hovering over them should show you the different file extensions. (Win 8.1 w/Chrome it's on lower left corner of window) You can't really tell the difference unless you click on the pictures and/or save them.

As a last resort you could add them (part# & color) to your question. I would be willing to convert them for you, just not sure how to get them to you as this Q & A format would be inappropriate.

One good way to share more of these would be in a github repo.

@chicks - Duly noted, thanks for the idea.

Excellent, thanks to the link you provided, I can take it from here. :)


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Electric motors - what for beginning?
I just got my first Technic joblot and now I am thinking about adding motors. I already have some - cheap ones from Amazon. I attached 1 axle pin to such motor with glue gun, works well except one thing - very often they are not powerful enough to run. I am thinking about getting starter set (8293), but at the same time I know I will enjoy adapting my own engines - question is which motors I should get in order to run builds that has lot of gears, hence lot of friction?

Hi @Slawosz, and welcome to Bricks Stack Exchange - your question might need some clarifications, particularly as to what you're trying to achieve. Pictures of what you've already done or the model to which you wish to adapt a motor might help. Also, what's a "joblot"?

Hi, I know this is a bit ambigous question, and I understand downvote. However I haven't found better space yet to ask and current @Joubarc answser is quite good.

If you're interested in comparing motors regarding to torque and what they can deliver, I would recommend  reading Philo's excellent motor comparison page which has a lot of detailed information, very much useful for tinkerers.
Of course not all of these motors are readily available nowadays and depending on your project some may be less suitable; but there's a good chance PF motors are what you're after.
While 8293 which you mentionned is a simple way to get one motor, keep in mind you're also getting a lot of extra stuff which may or may not be useful to you. In particular, battery boxes tend to get superfluous very fast (YMMV on this). So buying motors only might be a cheaper route; they are available per piece on LEGO's online shop - 8883 is the same as the set 8293; 88003 is a more Technic-oriented version and 8882 is the "XL" motor: slower, but with a lot of torque. (Again, read Philo's comparison). On the other hand, if you do want a battery box, it might be more interesting to buy a full motorized LEGO set, in which case you also get tons of additional elements, and the added thrill of building an official set. Beware that some motorized sets also come with IR remote & receiver, which may or may not interest you.
Note that the Power Functions system itself is going to be phased out by LEGO in favor of the newer Powered Up; but so far it's not quite clear if and how you can control those without a remote or app, as there's no "dumb" battery box so far - only hubs with more or less smartness.
And of course, since you're a programmer, you may want to have a look at programmable solutions, either EV3 or the upcoming Spike.

I really like your answer. I will probably accept soon.
So I think the best idea for me will be buying 8293, as will give me and my son some possibilities to make things working. And I will keep experimenting with custom motors.
Regarding programmable solutions, I am more interested in using Arduino/Rasberry Pi combo over Lego. Hence the question about 'custom' motors.

When using non-LEGO motors, maybe using a belt to drive a LEGO pulley could be a solution too; depending on the motor. But can't help you there, I'm leaning more on the "uses-only-LEGO-elements" side. On the other hand, if you get interesting results, you can also share them; I feel a question "How can you use non-LEGO motors to drive LEGO Technic models" could be interesting.

Given your background and overall goals (using 3rd parties motors currently and hoping to power creations using Arduino or Raspberry Pi), I wouldn't go with the starter kit. For my money, I'd buy an M-motor or two and see if they meet your needs. These are currently $7.49 individually on LEGO.com:
https://www.lego.com/en-us/product/lego-power-functions-m-motor-8883

As Joubarc pointed out, the starter kit comes with lots of "extras" (switch, lights, battery box, etc) that may add little value for you.

Given your background, you should have no problem modifying that motor to be driven from any source you like, and it will interface better physically with the LEGO Technic system than most solutions you'd come up with using off-the-shelf motors.
PF motor wiring is very simple, as the middle two wires (C1 and C2) simply connect directly to the motor. You can also pop the cover off and solder on your own wires.

I've butchered enough motors (and a 7864 transformer) by opening them when I was a kid that I don't want to do that ever again; but it's nice to see it's not that hard and they are readily available instructions to do so. I'd probably opt for just cutting the wire myself (and even then, I probably would only cut an extension wire), but for a tinkerer, that's definitely useful info

I'm wondering why one would want to tear the cover off to add new wires (except for a broken cable), instead of removing the plug block at the other end and using the original cables. If they are too short, solder and shrink tube seem a lot easier than the motor disassembly.

@WooShell Cutting the wire is certainly simpler. You could also cut an extension wire as Joubarc suggested. Desoldering and adding your own wiring does allow you to use any desired wire length, and you can (theoretically) return the motor back to its stock configuration, as you hopefully haven't permanently damaged any LEGO components. Also, if you use your own wiring and DuPont connectors, you can feed your wiring through the holes in Technic beams.

Also, as per the instructions linked, opening the motor allows you to remove the capacitor, which may in some instances be desirable.


text:
Buy new lego tires/tyres and treads
I'm part of a Lego team making competitive bots, and noticed that newer tires have better traction than our tires which are 5 years old.
Any ideas where I could buy new tires?  I've tried lego.com's "Pick a Brick" but they do not have them.  I can find "RIM WIDE W/CROSS 30/20" for example which would be the rim of the wheel I'm looking for, but not the tire.
I'd also be interested in buying tank treads, but I cannot find anything like that either in the "Pick a Brick" search.
Any ideas?

LEGO’s Pick-a-Brick service has only a limited amount of the total range of pieces ever produced. It contains a subset of the pieces available in current sets.
The Bricks and Pieces service (on the LEGO website under Customer Service) has a slightly larger range of pieces, but still limited to those that are currently produced by LEGO. This service is unfortunately only seasonally available (during busy seasons it goes offline).
For a broader range of pieces you have to go to third-party websites. The main ones are:
Bricklink: This site contains all the pieces ever produced by LEGO, and provides a marketplace where sellers all over the world sell these pieces either New or Used. Depending on the age and rarity of the piece, prices can be quite high or sometimes way cheaper than what LEGO charges. Just beware that shipping and handling costs are added on to your order, and those costs vary from seller to seller. Also, BL uses slightly different nomenclature for pieces than LEGO does, but searching by mould number (the little 4-6 digit number printed on each piece) should work. The rim you mention is this piece: Wheel 30.4mm D. x 20mm with No Pin Holes and Reinforced Rim and its listing shows all the tires that fit with this rim.
Bricklink has a competitor called BrickOwl, which offers a similar service.
Finally, you can also look for specific pieces in lots listed on auction sites such as Ebay, as they sometimes contain pieces you need at lower prices (especially when part of a bulk lot of other pieces that might be useful for you).

I'll give those sites a try, and stick with the ones labeled "new"   Thumbs up for providing a link to the part I mentioned.