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Any (small) Lego Technic parts not in whole units?
This is aimed at building a GBC module, not to reproduce an actual engine.
I need a piston type construction with stroke length of 3 units, which means a crankshaft radius of 1 1/2 units. Are there any existing LEGO Technic parts that will support this?
Edit:
TechnicTechnician provided the answer - the technic cam (6575) proved to be exactly what I needed. In case my original question wasn't totally clear I've added a picture of the solution below.

The distance between the two crank axles is 1½L, which means that the other end of the connecting rod (point X) will move a total of 3L as the crank rotates.

I assume you mean L when you say units?
Well anyhow, unless I'm misunderstanding, I would try these: https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=6575
You can stack 3 of them up to get 1 and a half L
If you mean 3L long instead of 3L wide, this should still work because it has axle holes which is 1.5L apart, it also has axle holes that are 3L apart.
Search youtube/eurobricks for 'technic mini engine' / 'technic micro engine' for some ideas.

Definitely the part for the job

There's also this old piece that is not a full 1L offset

https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=2853#T=P


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Please help identify this set with red, black, and lime colors?
Can someone tell me what it is so I can get instructions for it. All pieces are shown. I removed a couple I hope can help identify it

Based on the printed Atlantis part, this looks like Neptune Carrier (8075-1).

source: Stack Exchange

license: Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/

sort: votes


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Please help identify a set with bag of tan, white, grey, and light-blue 1x1 and 1x2 bricks?

Help me identify what set this small bag goes to?

Recently, I bought a used 10214 London Tower Bridge. It came with all parts in one single bag. However, looking at the brick types and colors on the picture I would guess it is from 10214.

all_licenses: Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/


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Are LEGO Clikits elements compatible with the brick system?
Are LEGO Clikits elements in some way compatible with the LEGO brick system?

According to this review on The Brick Blogger, yes, BUT...
After watching this video by Maniac4Bricks, it seems the compatibility is very limited.

Also the frames are to some extent compatible.
The entire frame is 9 studs wide, the little holes align with studs.
I've seen this frame used in a GBC module.


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Can two Powered Up train motors be plugged into one hub
I have set #60198 and it comes with one Powered Up motor. I'm hauling many many cars and one motor isn't enough any more. I see there is a slot for "B" on the hub. Is it possible to plug in another train motor into B and have the train be powered by 2 motors?
Does it even help? Not sure if a second motor would just split the power between the two motors if it worked, or does it draw 2x the battery from the hub?

You can attach second train motor to B output. However it will be controlled independently from motor attached to output A. So you would need to control speed for each motor separately.
Speaking of traction. The key thing here is your train weight. You might consider putting another full battery box (unpowered) into train just to increase weight and get more friction between wheels and the track.

Another thing to consider is that LEGO train motors are not precisely calibrated to run at any particular speed (or at least used not to be), so two motors given the same amount of power might run at slightly different speeds. I have seen trains with several locomotives, each with their own PF motor, that seperated after a short time.

I've seen this with 9V trains. However PF2 trains seem to be running fine - tested during two day event without uncoupling. We even had a case of one motor power loss on one end and still had all train parts together. I'm thinking train motor-axle-wheel combination might cause additional friction between these pieces if not adjusted correctly.

Can you guys take a look at the link? is this the right part? it says Powered up but it also says 9v. I know 9v is the old system right? https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?id=167303#T=S&C=11&O={%22color%22:11,%22loc%22:%22US%22,%22iconly%22:0}

Correct, that's the latest train motor for PowerUp (aka Power Functions 2.0) currently available.

If you know any programming, there are third party Boost/PoweredUp libraries you can use to control the train from a bluetooth-enabled computer. You can then write a program that takes input from the remote and powers both motors simultaneously.

The other motor came and it worked like a charm. It's pulling about 12 cars with no sweat. my 3 year old son doesn't care, but I'm real happy.


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LEGO kit 42082 step 1041 issue
Gray part will not fit into black pieces labeled 1 and 2. Tried them all, doesn’t fit right. If I put the gray piece in the other end it fits, but that’s not how it’s supposed to go. It’s like the hole on the one side is too small... Help please?

I'm assuming all parts you have are not damaged as this is possible, but highly unlikely, event.
I've tried to connect both parts myself. And this piece

is indeed harder to push into desired location as pictured in step 1041. Unlike the same hole from the other side of the panel. I've encountered this myself quite a few times while building other models. If you check both ends of the hole on a panel you'll notice that one has outer ring, which helps centering the connector, unlike the spot in 1041 step. I find it just a little harder to center the piece, but eventually it goes in and feels like it supposed to be there.
You can use something to help you with a task, like a 3L Technic pin, which can be attached to connector to help with a task.

Thank you, I will try that!

You’re awesome! It worked!! Thanks so much!

@Livie Happy to help. Please don't forget to mark post as an answer if helped with your your issue.

This is my first time using this website, how do I mark it as an answer?

@Livie You can accept it by clicking the check mark under the vote buttons on the left of the answer. The process is described in detail here: https://meta.stackexchange.com/a/5235/377708  Welcome to Bricks.SE!

Hi! Another question— same LEGO. 42082. Putting the feet on now... are they supposed to click in somehow? Also, my feet don’t seem to touch the ground...I’m worried I messed up somewhere a looong time ago.... !!??

@Livie I don't know if anyone other than me has ever seen your comment here, but if you actually ask another, separate question, it will get lots of attention.


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Looking for a way to connect SG90 servo motor to Lego Technic hole in a brick, in order to control Lego train track switch
After looking at this question:
Can I remotely control the points on PF train tracks?
I got the idea of controlling the train track switch handle using a servo motor that will be able to move the yellow handle to both positions.
The included video in that answer:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WoNiq5FCd9U
Shows the general idea of how to convert the circular motion of the servo motor into a kind of linear movement that will be suitable for the handle.
So it seems that with a set of Lego Technic bricks and an engine - it should be easy to achieve.
My problem is that I want to use an Arduino controller for this, with a cheap and simple servo called SG90:
https://www.google.com/search?q=sg90+specifications
So, what I need now, and a way to connect the SG90 motor to a similar kind of construction, to achieve a similar outcome as in the video (and in the question).
Many thanks for that!

There are numerous solutions over internet for attaching SG90 servo with LEGO. However I remember this particular video, which fit your need to attach/control Technic beams/liftarms. It also features required parts for this build at 7:48.

Thanks for your looking into it, dear @Alex. Actually I've seen that video before, and if you'll notice - the most important part is missing there. Not during the video, nor in 7:48 picture - the actual pare that is connected to the SG90 moving part - is missing. You can see (in the porccess) that there is a combination of some screws and a Technic brick, but I can't identify the parts, nor the way to connect them. Thanks again!

Are you missing the white non-LEGO piece that is attached to 5L Technic beam/liftarm on bottom center at 5:16 of the same video?

For mounting, servo tape (strong double sided sticky tape designed for mounting lightweight servos) to a tile works fine in many cases.


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Alternative to LEGO CONTROL+ app
My son just received the Liebherr R 9800 excavator 42100 LEGO set.
It would seem the Control+ app that is recommended for it simply won't work. It doesn't even connect to the blocks.
What are the available alternatives? And if this SE allows it, any recommendation/comparison between them would be greatly appreciated.
We're just looking to control each motor individually, no fancy achievement, scenarios, etc... We'll be able to compile from source, if needed, on MacOS or Ubuntu. We'll be able to run Android and IOS apps too (although I'd prefer to stick with official app stores), but the house has no Microsoft OSes available.
Edit: apparently control+ Android Pixel 3 simply doesn't work, but the app works on IOS. In my case, using BrickController 2 on Android solved the issue.

I'm sorry but I think you should get the standard app working before considering alternatives. Most common reason it's not working is because the motors are not connected correctly to the hub (e.g. wrong port, not connected), in which case the app doesn't recognise the model... also check bluetooth is enabled

Thanks Michael. The thing is, BrickController 2 worked right away, so the set must have been correctly wired.

Not necessarily, BrickController 2 will likely not have the requirement that all motors are in the correct ports, it will be able to control any motors attached. The control+ app requires ALL 7 motors connected and in correct ports, one remaining port free.

Mike, the app simply won't connect (android pixel 3). I tried my best not to make my post a rant and a simple ask for recommendations. The recommendation did work and I'm thankful for it. Please don't ask again if the cabling was correct and if batteries were present. :-)

I have the hub from the 42099 set, it's up to date, but can't connect with BuWizz or BrickController 2. The apps simply don't see the hub. I suspect some firmware version blocked them.

There is an alternative app called BrickController 2. This open source software is available for both Android as well as iOS. This application is actively developed and its maintainer can be reached on Eurobricks forums. You can also report and discuss any issues there.
The application is universal compared with solution offered by LEGO since one device allows you to control more than just LEGO Power-UP electronics. The following receivers are supported, by the time of this answer:

LEGO Powered-Up HUB
LEGO Boost HUB
LEGO Technic HUB
LEGO Power Function infrared receiver (on devices having infrared emitter)
SBrick and SBrick Plus (3rd party devices)
BuWizz 1 and 2 (3rd party devices)

BrickController 2 is primarily for lego kit control with an ios/android compatible gamepads.

Since this is stackexchange, I figure some might like to know it is open source software available here: https://github.com/imurvai/brickcontroller2

There is a free app called buwizz. It is a great alternative that gives more freedom, and works on Android.

Hi André and welcome to Bricks.SE! BuWizz is indeed an alternative, but it has already been mentioned by Alex above.

@zovits If I'm understanding correctly, André is suggesting using the BuWizz app to control the Control+ hub, which is different than what Alex suggested. I'm not sure that the BuWizz app can do that, though.

@jncraton Right, that could very well be the case. I apologize for not reading more thoroughly.

@jncraton that's indeed what I was suggesting. I have the 42100 and can control all functions with the BuWizz app. There's an unofficial alternative model ("skid steer loader") for the 42100 which also has instructions how to setup the BuWizz app to use it for that model.

I have started working on a C# SDK to control compatible Control+ / Powered Up hubs.
See: https://vouzamo.wordpress.com/2020/04/06/c-sdk-for-lego-bluetooth-le-hubs/ for more information.

Have you tried to use the PoweredUp App (also by Lego)? It gives full control over motors and programmation. It is like the advanced mode of Control+.
Here is a video by RacingBrick showing most capabilities even though since the last update, unfortunately, most programming blocks have new UI. Don't forget to enable the Advanced Palette if you want the full features.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a4gWPey2sBE

A little more information about the last update
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lCAp7s2rYO0

And this one by
Technicmaster0 : https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JS8GWqT0vNk


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Could not find this LEGO brick, any ideas?
Could you identify this LEGO brick? No ID number found on it...
Many thanks!

That's Legs without Split, which were used for the very first LEGO minifigures.

Thank you so much! Quick and on point


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Identify this dinosaur build
I acquired a random lot of LEGO bricks and came across this small dinosaur build. I can't find it anywhere. Pictured is about 35 pieces, but It is probably incomplete because even this had been broken in 2 parts.
Includes 4 dark green cheese wedges and 2 lime inverse 2x2 45 degree slopes and 2 white eye print 1x1 round tiles. Searching through sets that include those parts however did not help me.
Is this an official build? It seems a bit too polished to be just some kid's MOC.

Creative Supplement Set No: 10693-1

Searched on the curved green slope (the tail)

thanks you! I can't believe I missed that!


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Build a narrow archway
Is there a way to make a more narrow v-shaped arch as in picture below? I looked at the arches section on Bricklink and they all look like they're too broad.

I wonder, if I could use the Slope, Curved 6 x 1 Inverted (part #42023). Perhaps I could place 2 of them vertically so they split at the top and then use other similar parts somehow.

This looks like it could be two arch pieces placed at right angles, and then the low camera angle/viewport gives it a more narrow visual effect.

Couple of Brick, Arch 1 x 3 x 3 pieces produce somewhat similar archway.


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How to make a street-light style torch
I need to light up my streets so the citizens of my castle can get around at night. I'd like to do something like this:
From Etsy listing:

From https://www.pixtastock.com/illustration/58823117:

(I guess in some places they call this a 'sconce')
I looked around on Bricklink and the closest I found was this lantern below. But it looks like it only attaches to a hand, so I can't put it on the wall.
Any suggestions?

Lantern use so called 3.18 mm "bar" connection, which is used by multiple of other parts than minifigure hands too. You could position it upward as well.

Tree Palm Top was used as lanterns in old pirate sets, for example 6285

Yea, that works. Thanks.  The instructions can be found at https://lego.brickinstructions.com/pdfdrop/6285_1.pdf  step 25

you can even put a flame piecein the middle - if you use the short one, prop it up with a few round 1x1s

1989's Eldorado Fortress from the Pirates universe had torches made from part 3959 with a single transparent stud on the "top", with the entire assembly pushed into an Erling brick.

You can get a similar effect by clipping a lightsaber hilt piece to the wall or putting it onto a post. Just add a suitable flame piece (or simple stud) coming out of one end. For a recent handheld version of this (could be easily adapted to a stationary lamp), see Ninjago set 70671, Lloyd's Journey.


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Help finding number so I can find the set
I am looking for the codes of these 2 bricks. I inherited a big box of LEGO, but can't find the number to identify the set they go in.

Welcome to Bricks.SE.  Congratulations, you've got 40+ years old LEGO parts there!

That's 772p01 - Brick 1 x 2 x 2 without Bottom Tube with Window Pattern was available in one of these 4 sets.

And 3145 - Vehicle, Tipper End Flat with Pins in White color could be found in just 2 sets.

Thank you!!! I have found and build the sets


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Which pieces were used to make the flexible mesh skin for the life size Lego Bugatti?
In the linked video, around the 1:50 - 1:55 mark, a person can be seen picking up a flexible hexagonal mesh, and bringing it to the side of the vehicle. Also, close ups are visible around 2:03 - 2:37. Last, the are apparently two styles of mesh being used, one light colored one dark colored.
What are the Lego parts used to build these two meshes?

They appear to be Technic lift arms, beams and hinge elements. I wonder if BrickLink has this inventoried yet?

There doesn't seem to be a difference in a shape of triangles (that's how they mention them in the video) seen in Dark Azure as well as Dark Blue colors. However there are two shapes - bigger and smaller triangles. Smaller triangle's edge is half the length of bigger one - you can attach two of these to bigger triangle.
Larger one requires parts listed below. I didn't include half bushes seen in some images (funny thing is that half of same assembly had them, while the other didn't) as they put too much stress into assembly. It is also worth mentioning LEGO used a lot of parts which cannot be found in any of sets.

Smaller one needs these:

Then they are connected together with either of two following parts (both seen in use). First one is made of rubber so it allows some twisting and stretching which is what allows the skin to take shape.

Warning. I've built both versions and some parts here are a bit stressed (definitely illegal connections involved) which means they could deform over time.

Note. I've missed 3 pieces of 3L half thickness Technic beams in smaller triangle in my assembly to cover some axles, however part list has correct amount.

Could you give a bit more detail on what you meant about the comment, "used a lot of parts which cannot be found in any of sets"? Impressive answer, and the sample models you built are very appreciated!

@nijineko LEGO produce, from time to time, parts for various projects in colors not available in any of retail sets. Bugatti in the video is not an exception. If you look closer in the video, you'll notice half width 3L and 7L Technic beams featured in triangles above were used in Dark Azure color in the Bugatti. You won't find them in any of retail sets as of the time of this comment. Same goes for half bushings, some other elements including Dark Blue, Trans-Clear and Trans-Red colors (all Bricklink color names).


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Set to this brick
Do you know this piece? I would like to know the number of this item to see the set.

Does this answer your question? Part Identification - bricks with posts

I have never seen this piece before, but it seems like this is Vehicle, Steering Gear. In case this is the right one, black colored one was available in 12 sets.

You are correct. I have 3 of those 12 sets you linked and this is most definitely the steering gear. The cabin of the truck has a bottom and top plate with a hole. Beam goes through both and gets a standard 2x1 brick on top that can be twisted to turn the wheels.

Hi all thanks again! I have found the set and finished it. It was from the breakdown truck nr 382.


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What is the meaning of the available color lists in Bricklink searches?
Recent AFOL; figuring out Bricklink.
I'm trying to understand the color lists that are retrieved by searches in Bricklink.
Using Bricklink, I searched for part 3068a (2x2 tile without Groove), and looking at availability, and so forth.
Four categories of color lists are given in Bricklink:
Lots for Sale
On Wanted list
Price Guide info
Known Colors
The colors displayed in these categories puzzle me. For example, how is it possible for a color to be in the "Lots for Sale" list, and not be in the "Known Colors" list? Other possible discrepancies exist in these lists.
What do these lists of colors represent?
Here's a link to the available color lists for part 3068a:
https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?id=17085#T=C
For part 3068a, I scraped the data, looking for differences.
Here's a screenshot of part of the results, highlighting a couple of colors that are in lots for sale and are priced, but are not in the known color list:

Lots for Sale - this contains colors in which current part is being listed for sale.
On Wanted list - this shows which colors Bricklink members have added to their "wanted list". It doesn't mean parts in this color have existed. Most likely this being used to add non-existing color to list of wanted items and mark for notification. In such case if wanted item ever to appear for sale (and seller pushed this notification) person with desired item would be notified.
Price Guide info - here you can see sale/price history for each color for the past 6 months as well as items currently listed for sale.
Known Colors - here you can find colors which appear in released sets. Bricks in this list are tied to set inventories produced by community of Bricklink. If there ever be an error with inventory or it has alternative selection of bricks, this is being addressed by fixing or adding an alternative inventory for the same set. Every Bricklink member is welcome to make these fixes.
There could be several reasons why there are more colors for sale than on a list of known colors:

An error is an obvious thing. It is quite easy to make a mistake while listing individual part for sale if it has been produced in similar colors, or has variety in shape (with/without groove). Some shades of Blue and Pink are hard to distinguish. Shape differences aren't always so easy to notice too.
Some parts you see for sale may have been prototypes, test bricks or
produced for specific project (like life-size LEGO Bugatti has a ton of non-existing parts) which may have made their way somehow from the factory. This is not something you could request for as LEGO is trying to not let these items into the market.

One more thing to note. If you find a part in odd color and it isn't listed as HTF (Hard To Find) or Special Color, this is most likely a mistake while listing. Odd parts have quite a high value (depends on availability). Although it doesn't hurt to contact the seller to confirm the case before ordering.


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2x2x2 cube with smooth plate on bottom?
I have a follow-up to my previous question about building a 6x6x6 smooth-sided cube.
Do these three pieces create a 2x2x2 cube, smooth on top and bottom, and all four sides, with the height exactly the same as the width and the length?

2x2 tile (3068a)
2x2 block (3003)
2x2 modified, inverted (11203)

For completeness, can someone provide a sketch?
AFOL, returning to the LEGO universe. Thanks.

Yes. 1x1 Brick dimensions are 5x5x6 units. 1x1 Plate/Tile dimensions are 5x5x2 units. Since we have the top surface measured 2x2 studs, this brings us to top with 10x10 units in size. From here we need to construct a side of 10 units too. Taking out top and bottom tiles (10-2-2) we are left with 6 units, which is exactly a height of a brick.
Here's an example:


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Looking to identify set from a part
Looking to identify set from the following part

That's Support Crane Stand Double and Blue color was used in a single set - Highway Construction (6600)

Thanks Alex!!! Greeting from Hong Kong, Florian


text:
Unsure what set this is
I have a LEGO set without box or instructions. Some information about it is that it has a brick that’s kind of odd. It’s clear but at the bottom it isn’t and it has some type of metal in it the bag should all over say 135149. And I’m pretty sure it is not the Star Wars set. As I remember the box faintly.

This is:
31051-1: Lighthouse Point

based on the 1 x3 brick in Medium Blue and the Red Plate, Modified 1 x 4 with 2 Studs without Groove
The "odd' brick is  Dark Bluish Gray Electric, Light Brick 2 x 3 x 1 1/3 with Trans-Clear Top and Yellow LED Light (Glows Orange)

Spot on! I can hardly see modified 1 x 4 plate in Red. Not sure how have you spotted it as all of them look like tiles. I would have used Round Corner 2 x 2 Macaroni in Red as a second part to confirm the set.

I saw some instructions and it was right the bag was shiny due to tape on it. (The tape was on because I was moving and the set was opened)


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Fiery hair/head
I thought I saw a head with flames on it. (Maybe it was a hair piece?).  I looked for 'flame' and 'fire' on BrickLink but couldn't find it.
Here's a custom minifigure that may be using the hair piece I'm looking for.

I could find a few pieces with flames on BrickLink:
Minifigure, Headgear Head Cover, Flame Head Piece

Minifigure, Head Modified Alien with Trans Orange Flaming Hair and Reddish Brown Face, Yellow Eyes and Headband Pattern

Minifigure, Head Modified Alien with Trans Orange Flaming Hair and Skull with Yellow Eyes Pattern

Minifigure, Head Modified Alien with Trans-Orange Flaming Hair and Pumpkin Jack O' Lantern Pattern

Your picture seem to be showing a non-LEGO piece, which is similar to Minifigure, Hair Spiked Top, Plain. Also a comment on Flickr for this picture suggest: "It appears to be a trans-red knockoff piece with the goggles painted on"


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Who are the Lego Certified Professionals?
So, I was just watching Lego Masters, and it's mentioned that the show's judge, Ryan "Brickman" McNaught, is one of fourteen Lego Certified Professionals in the world. I was wondering who those fourteen people were. I found this article from in the answers one of the other questions on this site; however, it only lists 12 individuals, so it's clearly not an up-to-date list. I also found this post from 2019 on an official Lego website that states that there are currently 20 Lego Certified Professionals, not 14.
Is there a complete, up-to-date list of the identities of the Lego Certified Professionals?

November 2021 update
New LCP in Russia has been announced - Vladimir Golubev.
Number of LCP's is now - 22 (listed below). TLG has details on all of the members, except Vladimir. You can find more information about each member on the LEGO Certified Professionals webpage.
Americas

Robin Sather
Nathan Sawaya
Graeme Dymond

Europe & Middle East

Dirk Denoyelle
Georg Schmitt
Matija Puzar
Rene Hoffmeister
Kevin Hall
Ricardo Zangelmi
Luke Reveruzzi
Caspar Bennedsen
Balazs Doczy
Vladimir Golubev

Asia-Pacific

Prince (Shenghui) Jiang
Jumpei Mitsui
Wani Kim
Jae Won Lee
Wei Wei Shannon Gluckman
Nicholas Foo
Yenchih Huang
Andy Hung
Ryan McNaught

Graeme for sure is an LCP. Source: that LAN link and I know him personally. The official list page must be out of date. The most recent announcements for new LCPs have all been posted on lan.lego.com.

It wasn't specified which region Vladimir Aleksandrovich belongs to, but I assumed it is  going to be, most likely, "Europe & Middle East" where I've listed him.


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What is part number for this yellow cylinder?
I looked through hundreds of bricks on BrickLink and can not find this thing. Does anyone know what this is? The yellow piece on the axle:

That would be 75535 Technic, Pin Connector Round 2L without Slot (Pin Joiner Round)

There's a newer variation on the part which has a slot, but you can tell the difference by the hairline crack in the picture.
62462 Technic, Pin Connector Round 2L with Slot (Pin Joiner Round)

Thank you!!!!!!


text:
What set is the head in this MOC from?
This MOC uses some kind of armour for the head and possibly the thighs. I thought it was Hero Factory but I couldn’t find it on Bricklink.

I would greatly appreciate any help in identifying it!

It looks like Hero Factory Weapon Accessory - Machinery Armor is the part you are looking for.


text:
Actuator availability?
Is it true that there is no way to purchase any sort of Technic/PF/PU linear actuator directly from Lego at this time? The current giant Liebherr excavator seems to include #40918, a part which was only introduced last year, but they can't be bought individually on the store, Pick-a-Brick or the Education site. Is this true, or am I missing something?
I know that they are available on eBay and other secondary market sites, but it seems odd that they cannot be bought directly.

Short answer: Yes.
Long answer:
Technically linear actuators are not part of PF/PU system, so they are treated as generic part. S@H don't sell individual parts apart from PF/PU elements. Pick-a-Brick (PAB) has very limited part selection and linear actuators are never available there as well. I also haven't seen LEGO Education selling any actuators, only PF/PU elements. This brings us to the only possible place - Bricks'n'Pieces (B'n'P). Here you can usually buy most of individual parts from recently produced sets. However some parts are never listed for sale. These are either absent or have a note suggesting that piece cannot be bought this way (for example, PF/PU items). I remember linear actuators being in this grey area so I cannot tell if actuator you are interested in (even though I'm interested in new Technic elements I didn't pay much attention to this piece) was available for sale at any point. Missing/broken parts option, which is similar to B'n'P, on LEGO Service webpage actually has Large Actuator on the list and can be requested if your is broken or missing, obviously. So it may be possible that this item could be purchased on B'n'P after all. However this cannot be confirmed by the time of this answer as Bricks'n'Pieces is unavailable due to COVID-19.
If you really need the piece - you already found it on secondary market. There is nothing really against using it as prices are often lower than LEGO B'n'P offers. Shipping is also quicker than LEGO could offer.

Thanks for the info. Forgot about BnP so will try there whenever the virus subsides.


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Please help identify the LEGO set
Got the picture of the main fuselage with 3 troopers.

That's ARC-170 Starfighter (7259)

Thanks, found it as set #7259

@nnLego My bad, 7529 was a typo. URL indeed points to 7259.


text:
Please help identify the LEGO set from this picture
Got it from a bulk lot but lost pieces.

This specific set looks like it is from the "Lego Clone Wars Republic Gunship" set, due to the 3 cylinder like pieces.

Which set do you keep in mind, 7676? That one doesn't have pieces seen in the provided picture and using different stickers. Cylinder like pieces you are referring to are present on both versions.

No 7163 you posted a pic down below

That one isn't from Clone Wars.

Yes look at the clone troopers and the Droideka and super battle droids. Its in the picture that you posted and for a person who's loved star wars all their life im pretty sure i know what those are.

This is part of Republic Gunship (7163)

Identified by Dark Red [BL] Cylinder Half 2 x 4 x 4, which is unique to this set.


text:
Help identify playing cards
I'd like to design a poker scene similar to this one:

I've been able to find some individual cards such as the joker.  However, I can't find the full 'hand' piece in the bottom right. Is that a real LEGO?

These are all  the playing card tiles I can find:
3069bpb264 : Tile 1 x 2 with Groove with Playing Cards Four Aces Pattern

3069bpx6 : Tile 1 x 2 with Groove with Playing Cards Full House Pattern

3069bpb337: Tile 1 X 2 with Groove with Playing Card Ace of Spades Pattern

3069bpb338 : Tile 1 X 2 with Groove with Playing Card Joker Pattern

Those last two part numbers are individual cards, both of which came from a Jester minifigure from one of the collectible minifigs series.
Also, those coins you see in the middle of the table are from part 70501c01 and  97053.

Side note: somebody in this game is definitely cheating, since there's 2 Aces of Spades on the table...


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Please help identify the LEGO set from picture
Got this from a bulk partly assembled.

It is Darth Vader Transformation (7251)


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Please help identify LEGO from this picture of the base
Difficult to find which set this piece belongs to.

Could anyone give me more information?

Baseplate, Raised 32 x 32 Three Level with Ogel Center Pattern


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Which minifigure is this? Angry face with a moustache and a green playing card shirt?

Who knows what series/set this minifigure belongs to?

That minifigure looks like this one but without the tophat.
The head, however, is likely from this minifig. As you can see on that page both minifigs appear in 6 sets.

Thanks it does look like this one!

@Lotte based on some of your parts you've shown us it seems like you have a pretty good vintage collection since they come from before 2010.

yeah I recently bought a bulk at a second hand store. So it's a surprise what's in there. I found already a complete set 194 from 1976, but also newer sets from the atlantis series.

@Lotte you talking about this set? I'm jealous, look out for others! If you see any corny duplo-sized bricks in the collections then it likely means thet they're from fabuland series.

Yes that´s the one. It even had the original instructions with it. Let me google fabuland, no clue what that is, before I throw away something, which I shouldn´t...

Fabulaland, I recognise 3631 which I had as a kid. Need to ask my parents where all the lego is stored when I'm back home :)

This minifigure is a mixture of several other minifigures.
Torso Western Bandit Card Suit Vest and Gold Fob Pattern / Green Arms / Black Hands

has been used for just one minifigure called Bandit 3. Legs are matching yours so these two most likely come from the same minifigure, which appeared in 5 sets.

However your example is missing top hat and is using different face - Minifigure, Head Moustache Thick Angry and Long Hair and Stubble Pattern - Blocked Open Stud. It appeared in 13 sets and could be part of any of these 5 minifigures.

Yes, you're right, the head is from multiple other minifigs, that's what I should've said instead of saying that it comes from only one other minifig. Other than that, your answer is quite similar to mine. But it doesn't really matter.

Multiple answers to a question are a normal part of how StackExchange works.  Even the best answers might miss some nuance.


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Help identifying Lego bricks from a picture for a Geocache
I'd like to recreate a Lego design I've seen for an ammo can Geocache - its a box that opens with a hinged lid. I've found the parts for the handles (CLAMP 1X2) and hinge pieces (PLATE 1X2 W/SHAFT Ø3) on the top but I'm really struggling to find the large flat plat with hooks on the right side.
If you can help identify this particular piece I'd be grateful. If you have any idea what's on the right side too or any other bricks I need then suggestions are very welcome.
Thank you!

Hi,  Where have you seen this build, and do they have photos of other angles?

As a fellow geocacher, I had to vote this up.

The flat plate with hooks, on the left of the image, appears to be Tile, Modified, 3 x 2 with 2 Open O clips
Without an image from another angle, it is hard to tell what the connection on the other side might be - it could be Plate, Modified 1 x 2 with 2 Open O Clips (Horizontal Grip), or perhaps a pair of Plate, Modified 1 x 2 with Clip on End (Horizontal Grip), but it could equally be something completely different.

After a quick Reverse Image Search, I found this set for sale on Geocaching.com with images of other angles, including the Bag of Parts - and this model appears to use a pair of LegoPlate, Modified 1 x 1 with Open O Clip (Horizontal Grip), instead

Thank you very much, that's really helpful and given me lots of information to order what I need.


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Please help to identify spaceship-like LEGO set
It looks like the framework of a spaceship. Does anyone know what set it's in?

Between the blue pin and the grey plane nose bottom pieces there is a characteristic white wedge piece, which I have searched for. This piece exists in three different designs, each of which is only contained in sets that don't resemble anything like the build your image depicts:

https://brickset.com/sets/containing-part-4264027
https://brickset.com/sets/containing-part-4614247
https://brickset.com/sets/containing-part-6249584

On another path, I searched for the 2x2 brick with two balls, under the golden plate at the back, with the same results:

https://brickset.com/sets/containing-design-17114/
https://brickset.com/sets/containing-design-57908

So this leads me to think that your build is not part of any official sets, or it could be a somewhat modified part of a set.


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Can someone tell me what this part is?
I wanted to make something from the "Forbidden LEGO" book and I came across a piece, I don't know what the part number is.

The piece has 5 peg holes, one axle hole, half a gear, last of all I don't know, but in the instructions, it looks like there are 2 half peg holes. What is the part?

This is Technic Gearbox Half. It's very easy to find by searching "technic gear" on BL.

The item number is 32166, and it was available in the early 2000s (specifically from 1999-2002).

Thank you! Appreciate it.


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Can Lego Remote Control 88010 control Lego Technic Hub 88012?
I have been exploring the new Bluetooth Technic smart hubs with the Control+ app and PoweredUp app. I would like to also use a physical remote.
I have the Technic smart hubs that come with the Liebherr 9800. I see this hub with different IDs on Bricklink (88012 and bb0961c01).
Will the train remote 88010 work with the Technic smart hubs 88012 aka bb0961c01?
I see this how-to-connect question, but that is to the train hub 88009.

Just to make things a little more clear - 88012 is number used to represent a Technic hub as a set (this is what you can buy directly from online LEGO store) and bb0961c01 is ID used to identify Technic Hub as a part (which is what comes inside a sealed set). So technically, bb0961c01 should be part of 88012 set. Not sure why this relationship hasn't been done for this particular case yet, since such approach has been used for other PU parts.

No. I got the 42099 4x4 Off-roader recently, as well as the 60198 Cargo train. The monster truck didn't come with a physical remote, so I needed the app for it, unlike the cargo train which had both remote and app too.
The monster truck used a control system called Control+, while the train used another one called PoweredUP. I already felt it wouldn't work.
It wouldn't. I tried both of my PoweredUP remotes on the truck, but no response.  I tried them on both my Cargo Train and Passenger Train and they worked fine. They just didn't work on the monster truck.
And Lego never explicitly told us that they were compatible with eachother.

Thank you for those references!

@Jeff you are welcome! Do not forget to click the checkmark near my answer to mark it as accepted!

Technic hub has 4 ports/output, while train hub just 2. Now I wonder how can remote controller (88010), which can only operate two ports. knows which outputs it should actually control on Technic hub.

@Alex Oh, that corcerns me. Try looking here and seeing if there's any other info about the remote.

@mindstormsboi Technic hub wasn't released by the time those answers have been published.

@Jeff turns out I was wrong, it actually doesn't work. I will update my answer.

@mindstormsboi what do y'all think about this reference: https://lan.lego.com/news/overview/a-message-from-the-powered-up-team-r260/ from May 29 2020 says the "TECHNIC™ HUB (88012)" - "Connects via Bluetooth to the LEGO® Powered Up app and the Control handset". Does "Control handset" mean the train remote 88010? I should just buy the train already. :)

@Jeff We have more evidence that it works than that it doesn't, so I guess you're right??

Finally found clear evidence! https://youtu.be/hLbr4si2Qfs

I got a 42099 4x4 X-treme Off-Roader too, and found that Power UP App (current version is 3.6.0) can connect to the Technic smart hub. Click Bluetooth button in Create Mode, and then press the green button on hub. Enjoy yourself:)

didnt notice that...


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Can the Hogwarts Express train be motorised?
Can a Power Functions motor be fitted into the LEGO "Hogwarts Express" train? I have a spare motor and battery box and would like to fit them into this train.

There have been several Hogwarts Express trains released by LEGO. Which one you are looking to motorise?

One of the many sets released (10132) even comes motorised.

joedub55, can you please give us either the number or a photo of the set? There are seven (ok, really 6, since the microscale one is out of the question) that it could be. Or rather 5, since 10132 is also sold with a rail pack. And since that one is already motorized, there are really 4 options left: 75955, 4841, 4758 and 4708.

I don't think we have to close the question right now, we can just wait another day and if still no response then we can tell if all 5 Hogwarts variations can be motorized with PF. That means we can still answer the question, right?

@mindstormsboi Closing it now would prevent answers about a set OP didn't have in mind. We can always reopen when it is really answerable.

I'll assume you mean the most recent Hogwards express but this applies to most trains:
The simplest way to motorize most Lego steam engine sets that weren't made for motorization is to rebuild the coal car to sit on the train motor and contain the battery box. This typically results in a somewhat oversized coal car, but it's not ridiculously sized. If you are using the new Powered Up components, you don't need an IR sensor and you're done with just the battery box and motor. If you're using the older IR Power Functions you need to place the IR sensor somewhere: this typically involves rebuilding part of the locomotive. If you have the Power Functions train motor, but don't want to use the IR sensor, you can use the rechargeable battery box which has a built-in speed control switch. The downside is you have to catch the moving train to turn it off.
Building a powered self-contained locomotive is challenging as most steam locomotives are not wide enough to conceal a battery box, and the train motor isn't well suited to the typical spacing of the steam engine train wheels. Not to mention that its speed assumes small train wheels, so the larger wheels will spin as fast, but because of the larger diamter, the train will be faster. It's possible, but tricky, to build a steam engine where the front wheels use the train motor: I did it, but there are serious technical challenges to making it run reliably. I ended up having to switch the large wheels from a "flange, no-flange, flange" driver configuration to a "no-flange, flange, no-flange" configuration, so that the locomotive could go around corners.

Great stuff thanks for the help I think I might have to change my plans a little

@joedub55 Go on and click the checkmark next to the answer to mark it as accepted.


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Please identify the set(s) that these come from
I have bought an auction lot of LEGO packs. I thought that I'd be able to identify the instructions from the QR codes on the bags, but apparently not. Is anyone here able to help?

Slightly better photos:(http://www.imagebam.com/image/f8759e1346605880)
(http://www.imagebam.com/image/9b92721346606001)
(http://www.imagebam.com/image/6a46d51346606118)
(http://www.imagebam.com/image/89c6771346606190)

I had to shrink the image quality in order to upload the images, I hope that's fine with you. I'm still keeping the older links since they hold the original photos, which weren't modified.

Items in the last photo hardly can be used to identify the set since they are stored in ziploc bags rather than sealed polybag. Which means there could a random mix of bricks.

@Alex Looks like some random mix indeed. That blue tile is part of only 12 sets. I can't see any match. And I think mindstormsboi has already checked with the grille pieces...

@Uli Yeah, I don't really understand why you'd put a computer screen into  a building that's colored like a cave/mountain, and neither do I understand why you'd put those grilles in such build either. There are several other unique parts in the bag that don't really match the theme as well. Perhaps you can add this info to your existing answer.

@mindstormsboi I wonder if those extra parts were being advertisedv as such in the auction. That would really explain their randomness...

Ho Ho Ho!
Your four sealed bags (from first through third images) are Mr. Claus and Mrs. Claus

Item No: 40274-1

Building instructions at lego.com

It seems like the polybags on 3rd photo are from the same set as well.

@Alex I think you're right. The building instructions show two bags (#1 for her, #2 for him). But I can see 4 bags in an unboxing video on youtube. Looks like the smaller parts are in 2 seperate bags.

Thanks guys. That's something to go on at least. And a festive ornament for my lads room for a few years it would seem!


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Partial Truck needs to be identified
I've acquired a partially built truck (2 sets wheels so not huge), of which the bottom section is all I have (from the floor down). There is a transfer on both sides (on red bricks, which made me think of a fire truck, but no luck). This sticker looks like an advertisement or sponsorship logo you might see on a vehicle. It says Octan, then Tele (with the top of the T being a telephone receiver), then a white square with a black border with the initials CB in black typeface in it. It also has a tow hitch on the rear. Any ideas what model number I've got?

Welcome Paul! Can you add a picture of the build to help us help you?

Based on your description of the brick with “transfers”, which I assume are stickers, there is only one set that has Octan and Tele logos on it: 60084 Racing Bike Transporter. This set seems to match the rest of your description as well.

Fantastic, that's the one. Thank you, now to see if I can build the rest of it.


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When did Lego stop putting small catalogs into boxes?
In former times, all Lego sets used to come with a small catalog. This was either just a single leaflet with an overview of several themes (with a focus on new sets or subthemes), found in smaller sets, or a small booklet like a smaller version of the main catalog, just restricted to "minifig size" sets (when buying one of those minifig sized sets) and usually without any product descriptions (just set numbers), included in larger sets.
Personal nostalgia anecdote: These catalogs were significant to me as a child because they would often grant the first glimpse at new sets of the upcoming year during the first few weeks of January before toy stores would get the first main catalogs.
Recently, I noticed that current sets do not include this kind of catalogs anymore. When did TLC change this habit?

To be fair, it is hard to tell and depending on definition you may even tell TLG has never stopped doing so. But it depends on the series.
Bricklink has a lot of catalogs in their item data base. Single leaflet catalogs are called "Mini" and small booklet ones are called "Medium". Catalogs you can find in store are called "Large".
While Bricklink's database can be considered the largest in terms of catalogs they have, for some reason they didn't record if any of these catalogs come in sets. So it is hard to say when/if did TLG stop including Mini and Medium catalogs. Looking at the data recorded in Bricklink I would assume 1999-2001 are the years when TLG stopped putting "Medium" catalogs into System/City/Technic sets. It also depends which series you are interested in, since Duplo kept getting their "Medium" catalogs for much longer. However you can also find that some of recently introduced Dots sets may have had catalog of "Mini" type in their 2020 range.


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What's the purpose of 46834 & 46835 pieces (two wheels clutched into each other)
There is this strange wheel-like piece consisting of two pieces snapping into each other and offering to insert both axles from both sides, as shown in the first image.
What is the purpose of this part instead of just using a straight axle? I see that the holes for the axles are twisted by 45° between the two parts, but for that purpose, a much simpler part similar to the tubes joining two axles could be designed. The only purpose I can vaguely imagine is that it's sort of a clutch limiting the torque to prevent damage.
I particularly wonder why this is used in the track roller of the Liebherr excavator (42100 set) as shown in the second image below.

You've answered your question yourself. Limiting torque to prevent damage to motors or components is exactly what it is designed for, B.t.w. axles in it can be positioned in any multiple of 15 degrees...

Just to add what @MichaelVerschaeve said, clutch acts as safety feature not only to prevent damage of parts but also to prevent further injury if you stick your finger (or other body parts) somewhere between gears.

Step 45 of instructions for 42100 set shows entire drive-train for one side of the tracks before it is being covered with some panels and beams. I've taken that image and have drafted a rough path between the motor and Tread Sprocket Wheel that will then transfer this motion to tread links.
As you can see Clutch is within this drive-train, so it makes clear that its main purpose is to prevent damage to gears when track get stuck.
If there were no clutch some of those 12T gears would get an increased load and could be damaged since torque is being increased several times here.

This is a torque-limiting component. When one side is prevented from turning but the other side is forced to turn, the inner piece comes out of its "click location" and into the next one.
It requires quite a large torque before it activates. You will not be able to generate the torque just by turning the two components with your bare hands. To see the effect, you may need to attach axles and large wheels, or lever arms, or use gears, or a motor.


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I am desperate to find the name of this brick
Please help me find the name of this brick!
I am trying to build a Lego locomotive MOC and these headlights parts, the yellow ones would fit perfectly with my design, but I can't find the name of this one no matter how much I searched.

I would greatly appreciate if someone can recognize it and help me identify it!
Many thanks!

Looks pretty much like this part (tilted by 90°):

Brick Modified 2 x 2 with Pin Hole, Rotation Joint Socket
I recognized it by the small sloped parts next to the cylinder.
But apparently, this part was never produced in yellow. When looking closely at the pictures, the yellow has a different tone than the other yellow parts next to it. I think it might have been repainted.

OMG you are soo good! Thank you so much!

@BlueBrick Thanks, i recognized it because i like to use this part as engines on spaceships.

That makes a lot of sense!

Those headlights are made by mounting a Brick Round 2x2 in yellow with the studs towards the train body, and then adding a trans-clear boat stud as the light’s lens. The whole construction seems to be fixed in place with a bar, judging from the little light-bluish-gray tip sticking out into the lens.

The round brick would be to big, please look at the latest model here is a picture attached, he updated it. https://i.sstatic.net/wssjR.jpg


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Little round knobs under the ark of the covenant
I'd like to build the ark of the covenant from LEGO IDEAS as part of my 'raiders of the Lost Ark' scene. Is there a way to get a parts list for a LEGO IDEAS submission? If not, can someone identify those little round knobs at the base of it. Can someone help me understand how he's attaching the bars to the ark?

Since I'm not the author I won't be able to provide instructions, however it is quite easy for me to identify the pieces you are asking about.
"Little round knobs" are Brick, Round 2 x 2 Sphere with Stud / Robot Body (20953)

Bars are attached with the help of Plate, Modified 1 x 1 with Light Attachment - Thick Ring (4081b)

That's how it would look in the assembly:


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Identifying some hair, a green "gem", and white minifigures accessory
I recently acquired a few pounds of LEGO with some off-brand building blocks mixed through it. I've got three mystery pieces that I haven't been able to find on Bricklink.  I'm wondering if they are Lego or off-brand pieces. I was under the impression that most LEGO pieces had the word LEGO written on them, and none of these do.

Brown hair: Has the number 5 on the bottom.  It fits a 2x2 square.  I got no matches in a search for "hair", filtering to brown color.

Green gem: It kind of reminds me of Rock Raiders, but I got no matches for "green gem" or "green jewel".  The base is a 2x2 circle. It has no lettering on it.

White "wings"? This one I am quite sceptical of, however it fits perfectly on a minifigure as a pair of wings.  I had no idea what to search for this one.  It has a number 2 on it.

I'd like to know if these are Lego pieces.  Reasons that they likely aren't (eg. LEGO has never used that color) are great too.

Not sure about first element, but the last to are definitely not LEGO.

Your photos are very clear. It's my opinion that none are Lego parts. The parts are large enough to have Lego trademarks but none are appearant in your pictures. The molding quality of the green crystal seems far short of what Lego produces.

Piece 1 is Mega Bloks. Here's is a picture of a head (twice) that goes with it, and some yellow hair as well.

And now Lego has their own brick which is very similar to that head: https://cdn.rebrickable.com/media/thumbs/parts/elements/6382134.jpg/250x250p.jpg?1659323220.083711

The bottom piece seems to be Kre-O — this is a LEGO-like product produced by Hasbro, which includes a number of sets based on the Transformers franchise (which Hasbro also own).
This piece can be seen on the 3rd character (a "Kreon", their version of a Minifig) in the 6th row of the below image.

Fantastic, thanks!  I could have sworn that that piece was supposed to be car doors, I just couldn't understand why. Now I know.


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ID LEGO's in sealed bag?
Help please with this sealed bag of LEGO? It has the number 4 on it and I see purple pieces inside.

That polybag is from The Ender Dragon (21117), the set with the most of round plate 1x1 in Dark Purple [BL].


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Identify this bridal dress torso
Can anyone identify this brides dress torso:

I've searched on Bricklink for dress, white dress, and bridesmaid, but couldn't find it. I also have 1 in my collection but would like to buy more.

Keyword for this torso on Bricklink is "flower".
Torso Female Wrapped Dress with Pink Flower Pattern / Yellow Arms / Yellow Hands
It was used just for Fairy from Series 8 of Collectable Minifigures:


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Is this a LEGO part? It looks very similar to a technic axle connector 2x3 with ball socket
I recently bought a bag of random LEGO pieces which contained some non-LEGO pieces. This piece looks a lot like a Technic axle connector 2x3 with ball socket (32174 / 60176 / 93571 / 89652) but not quite the same as any of the pictures I found.
The main differences are the side isn't smooth but rather has two rectangular indentations (see picture 1) and the loops at the bottom have gaps in them (picture 2). The plastic doesn't show any signs that it has been snapped so I assume it was made like this.
I can't find any writing etched/stamped on it.
Does anyone know if this is a real LEGO piece and what its part number is if it is?
Thank you :)
Picture 1

Picture 2

Another indication that this is not from LEGO is that you can see the marks left from the injection molding.  LEGO is usually smart enough to keep those on the inside of a part.

This is a non-LEGO piece since none of the LEGO parts have gaps as seen in second picture.
One thing to note. Actual LEGO elements (depends on the version of Technic, Axle Connector 2 x 3 with Ball Socket) tend to crack right where the gap is on this clone element.


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Can I control PF M-motor with PF train controller?
Can I control Power Functions M-motor from 8293 set with remote control from 60051 train set? It seems from the picture, that the sockets fit into each other. So if I have the train set, and want to build a remote controlled car, should I buy the 8293?

Can I control Power Functions M-motor from 8293 set with remote control from 60051 train set? It seems from the picture, that the sockets fit into each other.

Yes, you can control any motor from Power Functions line with IR Speed Remote Control Unit found in 60051 set.

So if I have the train set, and want to build a remote controlled car, should I buy the 8293?

It depends. 8293 set contains single M-motor, which you can only use to drive back-forward or turn the wheels. You would need two sets at least to have a driving and steering model. It also depends how big of a vehicle you have as M-motors aren't very powerful and you might want to look into L-motor or XL-motor.

Thank you for your quick reply. I ended up with ordering set 42095, that is double price of 8293, so it worths it better then ordering two motor set.


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Cost effective sagging palm trees
I'd like to build about a dozen palm trees that have some curve or sag to them, not just vertical.
The 2 methods I've found are

The Baryonyx face-off set uses a dinosaur tail to make a curve in the tree.  Instructions can be found here, starting at about step 33.
The various Palm trunk pieces available on Bricklink.

Unfortunately, both of these pieces are hard to find in quantity and can be priced quite high.  Is there a more cost effective way to build sagging palm trees?

You could loosely stack Brick, Round 1 x 1 Open Stud around a core Hose, Rigid 3mm D.. As long as the stack is loose, you should be able to bend the trunk to your desired shape.
As a bonus, you get the segmented look of the trunk for free. A reference photo:

Or if your scale is smaller, maybe consider Hose, Ribbed 7mm D..

That seems to work. I'm having  a hard time getting the rigid hose through the 1x1 round bricks sometimes. Are there any particular techniques for threading it through ?

I've had trouble when the hose has been damaged (kinked, deformed, etc), but the diameter of the hole in the brick should fit an undamaged hose just fine. If you can, start from the top of the brick so you're not trying to line up the hole blind, and be sure you're gripping the hose close to the brick so it flexes the least amount possible. Maybe others have better tips.

If you're not strict about it being 100% LEGO parts, you could just use any old piece of string, thread, or wire instead.


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Does this scabbard really exist?
My son has seen a kind of backpack scabbard in a Ninjago magazine, and would like to get a real one for his collection. It holds a single large sword - all the others he has hold two swords, either in parallel (in the style of the Witcher!) or in the form of a cross.

I have found this unofficial 3D model, but would rather be pointed towards the real thing if there is such a thing.

It seems to me drawn item might not represent existing element accurately. It is very close to Minifigure Armor Shoulder Pad Single with Scabbard for 2 Katanas. Could be pictured at an odd angle.

OR
Some modification of Minifigure Armor Shoulder Pads with Scabbard for Two Katanas and Bar Hole

The only one I could find for holding single katana is Minifigure Armor Shoulder Pad Single with Star Lettering and Scabbard for 1 Katana, but shoulder piece is covering minifigure's right side.

There are some other elements that could hold two katanas:
Minifigure Armor Shoulder Pads with Scabbard for Two Katanas

Minifigure Scabbard for Two Katanas


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What is this piece called? two connected cylinders

Hi, I'm putting the pieces together for a Vostok spacecraft. I'm stuck at this piece, can anyone help me identify it please?

That would be
Part# 30360 : Cylinder 3 x 6 x 2 2/3 Horizontal - Round Connections Between Interior Studs
or
Part# 93168 : Cylinder 3 x 6 x 2 2/3 Horizontal - Square Connections Between Interior Studs
Both are essentially the same part, just a mold variation

Thanks so much, absolute hero

I wonder why they changed this mold?  The old one seems slightly more useful in that it has those open studs that you could maybe stick something into.  Not a big deal as I don't see too many use cases for that, just curious.


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What part number is this? - 1 x 1 at a right angle with one stud and one hole
My son needs this part and I'm unable to find its part number. Can anyone  identify it?

The black part is:
Part# 42446 : Minifigure Neck Bracket with Back Stud - Thin Back Wall
or
Part# 28974 : Minifigure Neck Bracket with Back Stud - Thick Back Wall


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Western General Store - slats and roof
I'm interested in making something like the Western General Store.  Can anyone explain how they got the slanted windows boards like that?  Also, the roof seems to use some sort of cylindrical T-brick at the apex (in the 2nd picture). Can anyone identify that piece please.

Here's an example of how walls have been built. If you look closely on original pictures you can also see 2 x 2 top hinge piece (marked in Yellow here) used for attaching it on the bottom.

Roof is, however, not connected to the top edge. This is how top edge looks on one side of the roof as it is made out of Technic pieces, mostly:

Parts are:

4623a or 4623b - Plate, Modified 1 x 2 with Bar Arm Up (Horizontal Arm 5mm or 6mm)
32013 - Technic, Axle and Pin Connector Angled #1
62462 - Technic, Pin Connector Round 2L with Slot (Pin Joiner Round)
2780 - Technic, Pin with Friction Ridges Lengthwise, Staggered, with or without Center Slots

Each of two roof surfaces are not attached to the top edge as I mentioned, however each cylindrical portion of the roof is attached to studded plates with the help of Plate, Modified 1 x 1 with Light Attachment - Thick Ring. Pictures don't tell how these are attached together. Keeping in mind we have plates visible, it shouldn't be hard to create some sort of structure underneath top surface to hold each "plate+cylinder" assembly together.

The slats seem to be 1x4 tiles on a base of overlapping 2x4 plates. It's easier to see from the inside.

The roof T-pieces are 32013 Technic, Axle and Pin Connector Angled #1 resting on a 4623b Plate, Modified 1 x 2 with Bar Arm Up (Horizontal Arm 5mm).

Are those the pieces you're looking for?

Thanks for all your help folks. I've managed to build a rought prototype of the apex of the roof and I think I understand how the technix connectors work.  Can anyone explain how the 1x1 round lbg rounds are held in place?

Starting at the top, there's 2 1x1round bricks, then a modified plate (as @Alex showed in red) which is actually attached to the big flat plate, then 4 more 1x1 round bricks (then a 1x1 round plate at the lowest point). It doesn't seem super-sturdy to me, but I think it'll hold. You could always put length-4 rods (lightsaber blades) inside to make it much stronger.

Thanks rschulz and Alex. I got it mostly put together now.


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Can you identify this fencer
Can anyone identify this hair piece and head? I did a search for moustache on Bricklink and couldn't find it.

'Allo. My name is Inigo Montoya.

The head is
part # 3626bpx129 : Minifigure, Head Moustache Black Bangs, Striped Sideburns, Cleft Chin Pattern - Blocked Open Stud

Hair

Part# 40251 : Minifigure, Hair Female Mid-Length

The rapier (sword) is from Brickarms


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What is this 2x1 decorated brick with green screen?
This is not a slope part, just a plain white 2x1 brick with decoration.

That's Brick 1 x 2 with TV Screen and 3 Buttons Pattern

It was part of a (BrickLink-labelled) minifig?! https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?M=alp007

@RSchulz that was just one of its uses


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How can find which Duplo sets, featuring car base, are currently sold in France?
My son have been playing a lot with my old LEGO at his grandma's, and I would like to buy him some to play at home.
I have tried to figure this out on my own, but I am stuck :(
I have read inside the vehicle the part number, 2312, and found it on Brinklink. It looks like it is retired, but the same mould tool got me to part 11248 which looks current.
It is in a decent number of sets, and I tried to find a few on the Internet, but it looks like they are retired. (Besides the obvious animal train, released this year)
How can I figure out, in the set list which are sold, in France, today, without checking one by one?

If you're interested in other car bases, there's also this one that comes in a bunch of recent sets, and some of them have a nice vehicle/plane top too: https://www.bricklink.com/catalogItemIn.asp?P=12591c05&in=S

Life cycle of a set from standard/general LEGO themes is, usually, 2 years. There are exceptions of course, where availability could be shorter or longer, but usually it stays within that time period. Some toy shops could have these sets for an extended period of time, while supply lasts.
It isn't easy to find which sets are available for sale using Bricklink, since it has so many Duplo Car Bases. So it would be much easier to check which Duplo sets are available for sale at official LEGO online store.
Currently, following Duplo sets feature car bases:

Mickey & Minnie Birthday Train (10941)
Animal Train (10955)
Number Train - Learn To Count (10594)
Unicorn (10953)


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Lego Boost app won't connect. What are my options?
So far, on three devices (Amazon Fire tab, Galaxy tab S2, Galaxy Phone S9), the following when trying to connect to the move hub from the Boost app:

all three permissions (Bluetooth, microphone, location)
upon request by the app, I push the green button
then, on the phone, the light on the move hub flashes white, then shines blue - at the same time, the app still shows the prompt to push the green button, the gear symbol in the upper right corner flashes blue
on the tablets, the android device shows a waiting screen (cute robot on treadmill), then again the prompt to push the green button

What I've tried:

removing and reinstalling the batteries from the move hub
as per a guide somewhere on the internet: turning off Bluetooth in the Android device, then push green button on move hub, then allow Bluetooth from within the boost app
Installing the Boost app on a PC, however LEGO does no longer support the Windows app & AFAIK no Android emulator handles the Bluetooth connection (nox doesn't, I tried)

What else can I try?

I know this is long in the past, but I just had success today with being unable to connect from a tablet which had previously worked fine.
At some point, the tablet had been upgraded (by accidentally tapping the wrong button) and that seemed to be the only possible cause.
(To add more useful keywords for others searching, I'll include what I searched for: I would get the treadmill, then the "Power On the Move Hub" message, then treadmill, then "Power On", then it seemed to just give up. The light on the Hub would turn on (blue), and the distance sensor would light up, but that was all. Another, newer, tablet would loop between treadmill and "Power On" roughly an infinite number of times.)
What finally worked to reconnect the original tablet was:

wait until the Boost app prompts to power on the Move Hub
extra-long hold the power button until the LED flashes red and/or green
when the app asks to upgrade the firmware, do it

I got the information from "SvenO" on EuroBricks

Life saviour ! Thanks !! I struggled for hours...

worked for me!!

Bluetooth problems are solved by the LEGO® POWERED UP program.
After this program establishes communication,the LEGO Boost app will work as well.

Nope. In my case Lego Boost refused to connect even though Powered Up was working fine (I could even control the device from Powered Up). In my case, the problem was that I let my 8 year old son start the Lego Boost app, and he probably didn't give the app the requested permissions (bluetooth, microphone, location), so I had to uninstall the app and re-install it to get everything right from the start. Still, the Boost app is terrible, the connection is lost every few minutes for no apparent reason causing both my son and me a lot of frustration!


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Align 2xX plate on "sandwiched" brick (height of 5 plates)
I'm using "baseplates" for my builds which are built by using two 16x16 plates with one brick height between them (to connect multiple baseplates with Technic bricks and pins).
Now I'd like to build "edges" on the sides where no further baseplate is connected. The problem is, that, although the baseplates have a height of a 2xX plate, I cannot align them correctly centered.

Is there any SNOT technique to get the 2xX plate aligned as for (A) which I cannot use, because modified brick 32952 does not fit between the two plates of the baseplate. For variants (B) modified brick 87087, and (C) Technic brick with modified tile with pin 2460 the attached plate would be slightly displaced.

It doesn't matter whether the attached plate would be "studs out" as in (B) or "studs in" as in (C), as long as it aligns as in (A).
(Bonus points if all bricks needed are available in white.)

Does attached element should be the of same thickness as a plate? What if the was one stud thick with no Technic pins visible?

It seems like you're inventing your own way of building baseplates, when at least two fairly widely used standards (Moduverse and MILS) exists. Consider just using one of those standards.

I've seen the MILS standard some time ago, which inspired me for by base plates. Although, they are quite similar (MILS with a base plate as bottom plate and Moduverse with one additional plate layer -- if I'm right). I guess you would have similar problems with both of them when designing an "off-module" edge as with my design? Or are their height a better fit? (Mine, at least, is exactly the height of a 2xX plate ...)

It might be an addition in Moduverse+, but edges exists for Moduverse (I don't really care about that myself, but I've seen that)

Found one solution using Bracket 2 x 2 - 1 x 2 Centered, where perpendicular plate is actually centered and fit two plates on each side seamlessly.

My other idea, which I had in mind initially, was to use Brick, Modified 1 x 2 with Pin, which can fit existing Technic bricks in your baseplates and leave presentable back side without any pins visible. Benefit of such solution is that you can have your baseplates same on each and every side (you don't need to make specific "edge" baseplates), thus allowing you to shuffle them however you like as this solution would work with any of them.

Wow. I didn't "find" that bracket, although I've already worked with it! Also in combination with the second option I could build a "pluggable" edge part without modifying the whole base plate. That's excellent!

Perhaps too straightforward but how about simply sticking a brick out with 1 stud and attach any kind of bracket to the top or bottom of the protruding end of the brick ?


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What motor and remote control can be used for LEGO train 60197?
I got the LEGO set 60197 passenger train and its missing the 3 components. The motor, the battery, and the remote. I've tried to look online for it but the only motor I see online is 88011. Is that compatible?

If you happen to have the appropriate kind of conductive track, 60197 can also be powered with the older 9v or 12v motors (part nos. 590 / bb0012v).

It would have been nice to know you location, to provide direct URLs. Below are details for UK, however prices would be in similar price range in other markets.

Train motor LEGO | Bricklink (as part) | Bricklink (as set)
Remote Control LEGO | Bricklink (as part) | Bricklink (as set)
Hub LEGO | Bricklink (as part) | Bricklink (as set)


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Can you identify these legs with the grass skirt?
Can anyone identify these legs. I tried searching Bricklink for "legs skulls" and "legs grass skirt" but couldn't find it.

This is:
Hips and Reddish Brown Legs with Lime Loincloth, Spider Knee Pads and Black Claws Pattern from Sparratus:

or (as JLRishe pointed out in comments):
Hips and Dark Brown Legs with Lime Loincloth, Spider Knee Pads and Black Claws Pattern from Sparacon

Both are from Chima sets.

The picture quality isn't great, but it looks like they're probably actually Hips and Dark Brown Legs with Lime Loincloth, Spider Knee Pads and Black Claws Pattern. The dark brown legs belong to Sparacon and the reddish brown ones belong to Sparratus.


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Why does this "useless machine" use out of production parts?
I found this new video. It uses out-of-production parts like the transmission parts. So when I tried to buy these elements in new Technic sets, I didn't find some of them. Any suggestions please?

Does this answer your question? What's an effective strategy for purchasing large numbers of different bricks?

I'm confused by the wording of this question. Perhaps you wanted to ask «how can I build this machine using only parts available in 2022 production», or «how can I build a transmission mechanism without out-of-producion transmission parts» instead?

There is no universal LEGO Technic set that contain each and every gear LEGO has ever produced.
None1 of those elements are out of production. You may not acquire all of them in a single set, yes, but they are still pretty much available in sets from 2021-2022.

1 Except, maybe, Technic Driving Ring 2L. But it isn't something that cannot be fixed by buying this element from Bricklink or an older LEGO set containing it. You can also modify this creation (it is rather easy) to include 3L version (in combination with Technic, Driving Ring Connector) of the mentioned element which is found in recent sets.

thanks for the answer.

Because the builder had those parts, and knew how to use them.
Perhaps those parts weren't out of production when that was build. There are extremely few MOC's that are updated when the parts go out of prodution. Perhaps the builder doesn't even have anymore, and their interests may have shifted. It does limit how many others are able to build a copy, but that is generally not why people build things.
(Apart from wanting to say that - and it became a little long for a comment  - I agree with RSchulz in his answer: because it works.)

I don't know if this should be an answer or a comment. But:
Because it works? That's kind of what the pieces were intended for, and they are put to good use. I, for one, could not have designed it any better.


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Does anyone recognize this LEGO piece? 2 studs, big curved section past a hole
I have searched through Rebrickable and Bricklink and can't seem to find this part.  Does anyone know what it is or what set it is from?

Have you looked at the bottom? Try to find a very small number there.

50948 Wedge 4 x 3 Cut Back with Cutout, 2 Studs
ATR 4 (8657) set is the only to include this element in Light Bluish Gray

In that color, it might only be in one set: https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?S=8657-1

Hope you don't mind me adding set you've mentioned into your answer.

Can you teach us how you find this? Is there a lookup function or a description bot somewhere, or did you know the piece, or did you just examine them all one by one?

I tried a variety of google image searches; Based on my browser history from earlier, the one that finally worked was "bricklink curved cutout". I recognize this piece (I don't have it in this color) but I couldn't spot on any builds I can easily lay my hands on, and I think I stored it in a place that is a bit hard to get to at the moment, so I just googled a few things until it worked.


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Building a window with the tie-fighter round dish
Is there an elegant way to build a round window with the Radial Cockpit Window? I've tried experimenting with vertical clip plates but it just ends up looking odd.

I'm gonna suggest a SNOT contraption relying on two 3659 Arch 1x4, two 1x1 round plates in trans clear, and one 2654 2x2 round plate with rounded bottom, also in trans-clear:

The 2x2 plus 1x1 round plates should just fit within the arches of the arch bricks and provide just enough friction to hold:

If stability is a bigger concern, replace one of the 1x1 round plates with a 2x2 plate in trans-clear. This should keep the window from wiggling:

There should be enough room inside the 1x4 arch brick to snugly accommodate the 2x2 plate:

And then see Joubarc's answer for details on securing this within your build.

I'd rather recommend reading The Unnofficial LEGO Advanced Building Techniques Guide (from https://www.brickshelf.com/gallery/KimT/Mixed/Instructions/advbuilding.pdf ), and in particular the SNOT 180 chapter.

It's also possible to use the (relatively new) part 78666 Arch 1x2 Inverted together with 3659Arch 1x4 to achieve a SNOT-less window frame, for example:

Bear in mind that the curve of the inverted 1x2 arches is not the same as the 1x4 arch, and there'll be a small (about 1/10th of a stud) gap between the inverted arches and the 2x2 dish:


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How can I extract a metal axle from a plastic wheel without damaging them?
I have Plate, Modified 2 x 2 with Wheels Red with metal axles that have developed rust and I need to sanitise them, as I have rust even on the plastic pieces
This is an example of wheels I need to disassemble:

Before trying more things and avoid breaking them, I would like to know if is it possible to extract the axles with no damage (the axles are inserted by pressure) or are they glued and should try to clean the rust without disassembly

Not an answer, just a comment, as I can't prove a negative: Bricklink treats the entire assembly as one part, indicating that it is not meant to be disassembled. That of course doesn't mean it can't be disassembled though, but could mean that such disassembly would cause damage to the parts.

@zovits thanks for your comment, maybe you are right. I assume they are one part because they are meant to be together, not because it cannot be disassembled, or because of the metal axle not being a LEGO part. Maybe I cannot disassemble because of the rust or the material expansion, or they are just glued! That's because I am asking :D I will try something by the weekend if I do not get an answer :(

From accidentally destroying some older wheels (decades on a sunny windowsill can make red parts brittle), I think you're out of luck.
The ends of the metal axles I've seen have had splines formed into them, then as far as I can see the plastic is moulded over the top. To see what I mean, imagine something like 32209 Technic Axle 5.5L with Stop, then covering the end with the stop with modelling clay - you won't get the clay off in one piece.
The good news is that ABS (the plastic used in most Lego parts) has good resistance to oxalic acid and you can get rust removers based on oxalic acid (some advice here).  It might turn the steel black; I know phosphoric acid does.  Note that phosphoric acid, citric acid, and acetic acid* aren't good for ABS, ruling out many commercial rust-removers and home-made recipes.  There's always a chance of damage, but less so than trying to get the assembly apart.
I tried an experiment.  After about an hour and a half in vinegar, the plastic was unaffected, but the rust hadn't reduced, so you may need something stronger.
But before I put the assembly into the vinegar I noticed one of the wheels was cracked (actually both now I look at the photo!), so I risked prising it off.  After scrubbing some rust off using steel wool you can see the groove in the axle where the plastic is moulded to grip it (red arrow), confirming that it's not coming off without damage.  I was slightly wrong though - this part isn't splined, presumably because it doesn't matter if the wheel slips round the axle.

If you insist on disassembly, applying enough heat to just the axle will soften the plastic touching it, allowing you to pull it out.  Reassembly would need glue.  But I think (from  memory, bricklink doesn't have a picture of the underside) you couldn't heat the axle without melting the plate.

* From the source I used, 20% acetic acid is bad, but vinegar (4-8% acetic acid) is good. Whether the soaking time to remove the rust is long enough to cause problems for the plastic would require an experiment.

What about vinegar? It is much more common than oxalic acid and is also known to be used for rust removal. It also seem to have "A-excellent" rating on the list you've attached.

@Alex I searched "acetic acid" in that list (vinegar being 4-8% acetic acid) and even at 20% it gets C - "should not be used".  I didn't search vinegar by name.  It might be worth trying it.  If the wheels are important, testing on a damaged/less useful part (perhaps of the same colour) might be a good idea.

I was considering the heat solution in case it was using some kind of pressure system, you just confirmed some of my worries. I got the wheels on a similar 2nd hand package you speak about and they are the only pieces of that kind I have so I did not want to risk breaking them. I will try my best to clean them without disassembling and not ruining them!


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What parts are used in this unicorn from Lego Ideas?
I feel like I should be able to find all these pieces and here I am asking.
I am trying to gather a list of pieces to buy to build this model found on LEGO Ideas. It is this Unicorn with articulating legs and neck.
The problem is, I don't know how to articulate the words needed to find some of these pieces.
Let me share a modified screenshot of the current piece I'm stuck on.  However if you know the fire pieces on the neck, or want to just make my whole list I'd love that.
I also am not sure what pieces make up the joint between the legs and the body. They look kinda like this Technic 1 x 2 piece (85943) piece but it is at least 2 x 2, I think.
I also am not sure what pieces make up the neck joint to the body but in the pictures on the LEGO Ideas page, it looks like that it can move too.

The mane seems to be based on 64647 Minifgure Plume Feather Triple Compact in either trans-orange or trans-neon orange colour; each plume is mounted on a 85861 1 x 1 round plate wih open stud.
The hooves are 47458 1 x 2 x 2/3 Curved Slope Wing End.
The leg joints seem to be tow-ball joints. See parts 22890 1x2 plate with tow-ball, 14418 1x2 plate with tow-ball socket on end, and 14704 1x2 plate with tow-ball socket on side.

It looks like Technic, Brick Modified 2 x 2 with Ball Socket and Axle Hole is used to connect the legs to the body

I have recreated this to the best of my ability on bricklinks' "Studio+" app.  I will share it as soon as they allow it to be published.

https://www.bricklink.com/v3/studio/design.page?idModel=260209


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Can you identify this Minifig? Transparent skeleton with red extremities
Can you identify this Minifig?

If you look at the answer to your other minifig question, you'll notice this minifig in that same set. This is gb020 "Mayhem" - IIRC, that's the ghost in the rock concert scene.

This seems good enough to be an answer, to me.

Same as in OP's other minifig identification question, the answer lies within set 75828-1 "Ecto 1&2".
The minifig is gb020 "Mayhem". If I remember the movie correctly, this is the ghost that interrupts the rock concert.


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Can you identify these 4 minifigs?

Please help me identify these last 4 minifigs.

FFS, Goldie, that's 9 minifig ident requests in the last 8 hours. Plz learn to do image searches.

I tried to search and not sure where to best do so.

Screenshot, crop torso+legs, search in https://yandex.com/images/ , grab minifig name, search on bricklink.

First is sw0603 "Shadow stormtrooper", with Lord Business' hair (from The Lego Movie).
Second one is sw0258 "Hoth officer", possibly with a different head.
Third one is loc002 "Razcal from the Legends of Chima line.
Fourth one is sw0581 "AT-AT driver".


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Searching for a part like 48989 but without the pins
I am searching for a part like LEGO 48989, but without the 4 pins.

The manufacturer doesn't matter as long as the part is compatible with LEGO bricks.
Also, a combination of parts is ok if it has the same function and no overlapping parts.
The construction problem:

the upper holes will hold pins with friction ridges (3L or normal)
the sideways hole will hold a pin with friction ridges (3L or normal)

Do they have to be pins with friction ridges ? Can they be pins with axles and friction ridges like Technic, Axle 1L with Pin with Friction Ridges or Technic, Axle 1L with Pin 2L with Friction Ridges or Technic, Axle 2L with Pin with Friction Ridges.

Yes, unfortunatly it has to be a friction pin. If there would exist a 3l pin with axle-friction-axle, i could use your first recommendation.

Lego has recently released a part to get closer to the ideal, by removing two of the four pins. https://brickset.com/parts/design-2393

I have found the part on several marketplaces on aliexpress and bought it. I don't know if its from Cada or other clone company, but the parts are working fine.

Your updated question mentions axle holes are not an option for your needs, and just pin holes are allowed. There's no LEGO part (I know of) with that exact topology, nor do I see a way of combining parts to achieve the desired topology within a 3L size restriction.
If none of the below suggestions suit your exact needs, and assuming cutting off the pins of a 48989 part is not an option, then non-LEGO parts are your only option it seems. I'll have to defer to someone else in that case. I'll leave this answer up, since it might provide inspiration.
LEGO Technic connectors with 90 degree offset holes, limited to 3L size (but with axle holes)
The closest is probably Technic, Axle and Pin Connector Perpendicular 3L with Center Pin Hole, albeit with axle holes rather than pin holes :

There exist similar parts as well, like eg. Technic, Axle and Pin Connector Perpendicular 3L with 2 Pin Holes :

Or the smaller Technic, Axle and Pin Connector Perpendicular :

LEGO Technic connectors with 90 degree offset holes, with just pin holes (but exceeding 3L size)
There are some parts that have just pin holes, offset by 90 degrees, like Technic, Pin Connector Perpendicular 2 x 2 Bent :

Or the bigger and more recent Technic, Pin Connector Block, Liftarm 1 x 3 x 3 :

Or even Technic, Liftarm, Modified H-Shape Thick 3 x 5 Perpendicular :

Thanks for your answer! Those parts don't fit for my construction problem.

@spoekes : could you then clarify your construction problem ? What are you trying to achieve ? You can edit your question with additional details.

Updated the question.

@spoekes : Updated my answer accordingly - unfortunately no exact match for your desired topology.


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Can one connect two technic pins end-to-end?
Who hasn't tried following some MOC instructions only to discover problems? This TIE Outlander build (free instructions) is neat but has several issues, the biggest of which are steps 44-46.
 The directions show a 3-length technic pin (6558) that connects to four pieces. The "orphaned" pieces do connect to other things in later steps but are never connected as shown in step 46, leaving the build less durable than I'd like. The directions later use the opening for other technic pins as well (steps 86-91), so even if a 4-length pin existed, it would not solve this issue.
Is there a way to connect two pins directly together, end-to-end? I know there are rods that can fit inside of pins; is this a legal connection, and would it work here? (I'm not sure if "rod" is the right term.)

Looks like there are 4 pins of length 3, though the instructions show two sets of 2x. Are you perhaps trying to put the same pin of length 3 through two pieces meant for 2 separate pins?

@DanielStevens No.. It is clearly 4 3L pins with 4L worth of pieces on each one.

In the MOC instructions it is clearer (in later steps) that it is intentional. The outer pieces on each pin are "floating"and kept in place later by the wing that gets added. Then a 2L pin is stuck in each of them to further extend the length. Fragile construction. Putting a narrow bar in the 3L+2L pins would work and is a technique used by Lego themselves at times.

The canonical way of connecting two pins is using part 62462 "Technic pin connector":

Those are shown in step 89 in the instructions of that MOC.

I know there are rods that can fit inside of pins; is this a legal connection, and would it work here?

Remember that "legal" means "doesn't put parts under stress".
By "rod" I guess you mean "bar". As far as I can tell, bars will fit snugly into technic pins. While this might be a legal connection, the pins themselves won't be able to compress to be fit into a technic hole (or to get out of one, for that matter). So while putting a bar through a pin might be legal, putting that pin through a hole will not. Putting the pin in the hole, then the bar through the pin, would be better.
A flex tube has the same diameter as a bar (IIRC), and would be a better option.

For the MOC in question, note that the wing (in steps 60 & 81) will connect all the 2x1 plates with perpendicular technic hole, so there's no need to put extra pins. Yes, the instructions could have been better.
You can also try replacing the pins with a 10L axle, the inner pin connectors with axle connector 2Ls, and the 2L pins from step 89 with pin axles.

The axle route would hold things together, but unless I miss something it wouldn't have any means of holding the wing position. So it would work for other applications with this problem but not this particular one

Oh, I didn't realize the position of the wings is held just by the friction of the pins. My bad.

@TomCarpenter No, that won't work well. The MOC is designed so that the wings can be (un)folded as a play feature. Locking the axle in place and locking the wings to the axle would disable that feature.

The question was how to connect pins, and this answered that so I've marked it as such. A solution to the MOC is different; like Ivan said, it is meant to fold but needs to be stiff enough to hold position. I might use a hinge, perhaps a liftarm, or maybe just say screw it and use 44224

Putting bars through pins is legal in my opinion, and is done in official Lego sets from time to time. Especially the "flick missile" is used in technic sets to extend pins with one more module:
https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=61184

Here is an example of such usage (from the 42039 24 Hours Le Mans Race car):

Another example; the recent 31127 street racer:

for aesthetic reasons flick missiles are used here with length 2 pins rather than length 3 pins.

Note how the pins go through the holes first, and then the bars go through the pins.

Yes, and when deconstructing the other way around, first remove the bars from the pins, then compress and remove the pins from the technic holes... imho it IS possible to create an illegal connection that way if the bars can't be removed from the pins anymore


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Is this resistance ship a set on its own, or part of another set?
I can't find this ship on Brickset, so it's either unlisted (unlikely) or came with another set.
Can anyone ID it, please?

This A-wing is part of 75196: A-Wing vs. TIE Silencer Microfighters

Ah, they come as a pair. I'd not got to the other craft yet. Thank you.


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Mistake with hook holder (steering arm with round socket) on Technic Helicopter 42145
I made one small (but costly) mistake in my otherwise very satisfying build for the Airbus helicopter: at step 66, I connected the grey piece "steering arm with ball socket" the wrong way. And of course now that I need it at step 744(!), the socket is facing up instead of down, and it is impossible to attach the hook. Can anyone here see a not-too-painful way of fixing this? Otherwise I will just have to give up on that hook.
Thanks!

As you can see from building step 66 and 67 the beam is held with a length 7 axle and a blue length 3 pin.
I'm afraid there is no easy way to flip that beam without partially deconstructing the model.
You can deconstruct either severely on one side until you can access the axle and take it out with pliers, or less severely on both sides so you can push the axle through with another axle.
Likely the blue pin will not give you much trouble, if the model is deconstructed enough to remove the yellow axle, there will be enough wiggle room to force out the beam with pin and all, Lego Technic is rather flexible like that.
One tip to make the process less painful: photograph each step you did while deconstructing the model. Then reverse the order of the pictures and you'll have yourself a list of instructions to put the model back together.

That's good advice even it it won't be easy for me to fix it. Thanks!


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What Harry Potter set is this assembly from?
I have been gifted a lot of 10+ years old LEGO. I don't have any instructions books. Any idea what sets could this be so I could try to find them online please?

That looks like two Slope 2x2 45° in sand green and a Light Brick 2x3x 1 1/3.
The only set containing both those parts is 4738-1 Hagrid's Hut (3rd edition).
(Now that you know the set number, you can search for instructions in Lego's customer support webpages)

Thank you so so much!!!

@Natalia You're welcome! Since you're new here, I'll remind you that it's good etiquette to "accept" the answer. See https://bricks.stackexchange.com/help/someone-answers .

Thank you again @IvanSanchez, really appreciate it. Have
I accepted the answer correctly? This forum is amazing. I have so many lego and keep checking for answers here, what element is what numer and what sets etc. And will have more questions, so happy I have registered here.

Thanks for accepting the answer! You're welcome to come back, but if you got a big unsorted pile you might wanna read https://bricks.stackexchange.com/questions/404/ for tips on doing the set identification by yourself.


text:
Can anyone identify this 4 x 4 round LEGO modified part?
This is a 4 x 4 round piece with a 1 x 2 studs on top. Anyone know the part #?

This is part 30209 - Bracket 1 x 2 - 4 x 4 Round Dish.


text:
What is the difference between LOCAL memory for programs and LOCAL memory for Direct Commands?
I've learned a bit about Direct Commands in EV3 and understood the work of Local and Global memory. Using the Direct Commands I can access the memory using an offset of the accessing byte/bytes (like if I want to access the byte 4 - I could write smth like LVX(4) (if I use already prepared library)). Now I want to work with .rbf files and found a cool repo that can decompile it into something readable.

And then to this:

Now  I really don't understand what is going on. I had some other programs decompiled and as I understood these thing like $LOCAL4 the number in it is directing not to a offset of bytes but bits. There were also some locals like $LOCAL120 and $LOCAL121.
I want to understand is there something common between these local things? And is there docs about memory used by .rbf files?

It looks like the disassembler you used doesn't show the complete picture. Like many programming languages, the lmsasm language allows allocating variables with either a global scope or a local scope.
I wrote a disassembler in Python that will create a .lms file that can be recompiled with the lmsasm assembler. Using this disassembler should show the actual allocations, although not with the correct data types.
To explain it better, consider this example:
DATA32 MyGlobalInt

subcall MySubroutine1
{
  DATA32 MyLocalInt

  // subcall can use both global and its own local variables
  ADD32(MyGlobalInt, 10, MyLocalInt) // MyLocalInt = MyGlobalInt + 10
  ...
}

subcall MySubroutine2
{
  ADD32(MyGlobalInt, 10, MyLocalInt) // ERROR! MyLocalInt is not defined

  // we could define MyLocalInt at the start of this subcall
  // to fix the error, but it would be a new variable, not
  // related to the one with the same name in MySubroutine1
  ...
}

...

Global variables are declared at the top level of the file and can be used in any blocks (subcall, vmthread, etc.) and will have the same value everywhere.
Local variables are declared inside of a block (between curly braces). Those variables can only be accessed in that block and the value does not persist between calls of that block.

Direct commands also run as a program. They just have more limited rules compared to a user program.
So, to answer the fundamental question: memory isn't directly shared between programs.
However, there are some opcodes that can be used to access memory in other programs.
From http://ev3.fantastic.computer/doxygen/VM.html:

opMEMORY_WRITE (PRGID, OBJID, OFFSET, SIZE, ARRAY)
Write VM memory
Dispatch status unchanged
Parameters

(DATA16)    PRGID - Program slot number (must be running) (see prgid)
(DATA16)    OBJID - Object id (zero means globals)
(DATA32)    OFFSET - Offset (start from)
(DATA32)    SIZE - Size (length of array to write)
(DATA8) ARRAY - First element of DATA8 array to write

Direct command example
opMEMORY_READ (PRGID, OBJID, OFFSET, SIZE, ARRAY)
Read VM memory
Dispatch status unchanged
Parameters

(DATA16)    PRGID - Program slot number (must be running) (see prgid)
(DATA16)    OBJID - Object id (zero means globals)
(DATA32)    OFFSET - Offset (start from)
(DATA32)    SIZE - Size (length of array to read)

Returns

(DATA8) ARRAY - First element of DATA8 array to receive data

Direct command example

Using these instructions seems dangerous since one program doesn't really know what is running in the other slot, so you may or may not be reading from the memory you intended to and writing to the wrong memory could cause crashes or other unexpected behavior.
Instead, I would recommend using the mailbox opcodes to transfer information between programs if needed.

Thank You for the explanation, but I still want to know is a user program shares memory parts with direct commands like imagine: a user wrote a program, deployed it to a ev3 brick and in the program there is a block like measuring touch sensor (the value of which is not wired to anywhere), so would the value placed anywhere in memory and if yes - could it be accessed by direct commands?

No, memory is not shared directly between a user program and direct commands. However, there are some instructions you can use to access memory in other programs. I will add these to my answer.