text:
How do you make a custom Lego piece/figure?
I have googled this countless times and there just isn't anything close to what I want.
I want to be able to print and design pieces: minifigure accessories, minifigure designs, pretty much make my own figure without going through another 3rd party. I have specific designs I want to do and it's strictly for personal use. I am just really curious about how other third parties do it.
I saw the YouTube video of how Lego makes their bricks. They have their own mixture and mold and press, impractical for single use. I am also not talking about pad printing or any kind of decal work as I have already researched different ways to go about doing it.

Because your question is more about plastic casting & mold making than specifically Lego, I think you will have better luck in Engineering.  It sounds like you're interested in silicone molds and 2-part resin casting. Google/Youtube has a lot of information on this subject as well.

I recommend getting the book Minifigure Customization. It explains all aspects of designing and casting of minifig parts and accessories. The book has two versions. The second print (white cover) is slightly updated from the first version (blue cover): https://www.amazon.com/Minifigure-Customization-Why-Live-Box/dp/1605490520/

The printing on existing pieces and the designing of new pieces are two very distinct fields with little to no overlap. Please specify which one you are interested in (and optionally ask another question for the other topic).


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Are these 1x1x5 and 1x2x5 bricks LEGO?
I bought a bulk box of LEGO and about 10% were mega blocks. I am unsure of these pieces. They seem to match in color.

Welcome to Bricks!

These are the Blocked Open Stud variants of
Part # 2453a : Brick 1 x 1 x 5 - Blocked Open Stud or Hollow Stud

and
Part # 2454 : Brick 1 x 2 x 5 - Blocked Open Studs or Hollow Studs

Yes, they are hollowed stud 1 x 1 x 5, and hollowed stud 1 x 2 x 5 bricks.

source: Stack Exchange

license: Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/

sort: votes


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how to send direct command to ev3 brick
I am new to ev3 python but am working on a project. I was reading about NXT-python that " It works by sending the direct commands detailed in LEGO's "Blue-tooth Development Kit" to the NXT brick" I was wondering is it possible to do the same with ev3 brick. Please answer in layman's terms. I am using ev3-dev and I was hoping I could use it to drive the robot.

This isn't exactly sending direct commands to your robot, but LEGO Education recently released a python stack for the EV3 brick.
I haven't tried it; but as I understand it, it's an alternative firmware which should allow you to have python scripts running natively on your EV3 brick, allowing for full autonomous robots programmed in python.

all_licenses: Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/4.0/


text:
Is there a software which finds alternate models for owned sets?
I know for example the catalog of BrickLink and now I wonder if there is a software which can calculate from the inventory lists which other models one can build with an owned set?
To more detail: If one owns a set with a lots of parts, there have to be some set with less parts that are included in the big set...
I have now browsed Rebrickable website, but there are only self-made instructions for owned sets. This is nice, but I searched for "original" models, which I can build of my owned sets. Did I made something wrong?

In your build options, you can select whether or not to include custom models or official lego models. Click "Change build options", then select "Include Official Sets (LEGO)" and "Include Official Sets (LEGO)" or "Include Custom sets (MOC)"

thank you for this advice!

You're describing rebrickable:
https://rebrickable.com/
Besides official models, also hundreds of fan created models are available.
It's a terrific resource


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What is the piece and piece number of the rocket launcher accessory this Joker figure is holding?
He is holding a rocket launcher type piece that I cannot identify.  What is the piece and piece number of the accessory this figure is holding?

I suspect that the rocket launcher is made from more than one piece.

6195916: Function Element, Female

+
306226: Round Brick 1X1

makes:


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When was this Lego Adventurers T-Shirt produced?
When was this Lego Adventurers T-Shirt produced, and what is its model number?
The link says 1998. Is it correct? And where can I see the full design?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/352740773574

The shirt itself says 1998 on it, which coincides with the earliest known release of a set for that theme.

Here it is advertised on/in this 1999 January/February issue of Lego Mania magazine:

(https://www.flickr.com/photos/timlydy/22805063335/in/photostream/)
Given this was advertised at the very beginning of 1999, I think it is safe to assume that 1998 is the correct date for when the T-shirt and Magazine were printed. As for a model number, as Alexander O'Mara mentioned, it's listed on Bricklink as TS10.  I am not familiar with model numbers for Lego clothing, or if they even have them.  Bricklink has likely created their own format for designating a number to a particular design to simplify and clarify it's identification for buyers and sellers.

Year:
Probably 1999.
The Jungle Adventurers sets were released in 1999, and it seems likely that it would be released that same year. The full design below shows this is the Adventurers line it corresponds to.
There is a copyright on the design, which turns out to be 1998, but it likely predates the actual release which seems to have been in January 1999.
Model Number:
Unclear if it really has one.
BrickLink lists it as TS10.
Design:

(source: BrickLink)

(source: Grailed)

(source: Grailed)

These pictures are a great find, you should consider adding one in the form of an edit to the question for clarity.

I noticed you edited-in the 1998 info after I posted my answer :P


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3x3 black Technic bracket piece needs identifying
I need some of this part but I’m struggling to find any sets they came in:

BrickLink calls it Technic, Pin Connector Toggle Joint Smooth Double with Axle and Pin Holes.

It comes in a number of sets listed here.

Here is some detail of the sets containing the part listed in order of year released (newest first). The green highlighted sets are currently still available on Lego Shop.com (US) at the time of this answer:

Since most sets didn't/don't come with very many of this piece, you're best bet is probably sourcing them from Bricklink or somewhere similar. They're about .20 cents (USD) or less on Bricklink.
They are also available for purchase individually at Lego Shop.com for .42 cents (USD):
https://www.lego.com/en-us/service/replacementparts/sale

I think a list of links might be more-useful than an image. Good point on the buying advice though!

Because I don't know the age, language comprehension, or experience level of the people asking the questions, I try to focus on clarity.  Links are absolutely useful, but also susceptible to breaking.  I try to present an answer that can stand on it's own if the link(s) fail.  I also feel that posting a line or two of just links is lazy and not much better than "one line" answers. I am still new here and would appreciate any constructive criticism from veterans such as yourself.  I am interested in contributing here without "stepping on toes".


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Is this grey piece a LEGO part?
I have this piece in our box of random LEGO. It doesn’t have any studs to connect to so wonder if it’s even a LEGO piece.
Added a picture with other pieces for size perspective.

Can you take a picture of it next to a Lego 2x4 brick, or something of that nature to give us a better idea of the size?

It is not LEGO but a clip for a Playmobil cannon.
https://www.libble.de/playmobil-7683/p/561335/

How the heck did you figure that out?  That's awesome :)

Exactly! I am amazed. I don’t know if we even have that cannon. I’m glad to remove it from the Lego box. :) Many thanks.

This piece doesn't look like any actual Lego piece that I am familiar with. The way the back of it is designed it looks likely that it snaps onto something.  I'll throw a guess out here and suggest it possibly came off of a toy train or model train wheel assembly.  It looks vaguely similar to the outside section of Lego part# 2878 (Train Wheel RC Train, Holder).


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Selling complete sets, Assembled or Disassembled?
I have several complete Lego sets that are assembled.  I would like to sell them and want to know if I should ask a higher price if I disassemble them and organize the pieces?  I also have the instruction books that go with them.

A good part of the LEGO experience is building the set. There is little joy in buying a LEGO set that was already built by someone else. So you are right, that a disassembled set is usually viewed as more valuable. However, consider the following points.
When people purchase a LEGO set, either new or used, they expect the parts to be sorted in some way into bags. So, taking apart the sets you have and putting them into baggies is not considered an additional service you're providing and buyers are willing to pay extra for.
Shipping a fully assembled set puts a lot more liability on you than shipping loose parts. If you advertise the set as fully built, and someone buys it, if any of the set gets broken or pieces fall off (which will likely happen in shipping), the buyer has all the rights to be disappointed and demand a resolution from you (shipping the set back to you at your expense, getting a partial or full refund, etc.) Also consider that shipping a fully built set is going to be more expensive, as you will have to use a lot more protective wrapping and a larger box.
As far as how much you can sell the sets for, that will be dictated by the market. You can certainly start out by listing your sets at the higher end compared to other listings, but it will be up to the buyers to decide if its worth it to them. If they don't buy, you will have to consider lowering the price, keeping the set for yourself, or selling the parts in bulk or individually.
If you are looking for angles to make your listing more attractive, here are some things buyers are looking for and willing to pay more for: Clean pieces, no damage or fading to the pieces, minifigs, instructions, and box (if provided). Stickers are clean and nicely applied without any fading or curling. The pieces are nicely organized in baggies based on color, piece type, or building steps. The set comes from a smoke and pet free home. The set belonged to an adult collector (or if from a child, the pieces are cleaned and sanitized). There are clear and detailed pictures included with the listing.
Hope this helps some. Any other questions, just post it as a follow up, and the community can give you more info.

That was a terrific answer.  I pretty much figure I will specify that the pieces are all sterilized and put into bags for organization.  Thank you for such a prompt reply

You're very welcome! Wishing you the best with selling your sets! :)

Let me add another perspective to TheBrickBlogger’s answer: when I buy a used set on EBay, I like to have some sort of a visual guarantee that the set is complete and as described. The only way to get that confirmation is by seeing pictures of the built set, ideally from all angles.
So, when I sell used sets on EBay, I will make sure the set is fully built, take pictures from all angles, take pictures of areas where pieces are missing or stickers are less than perfectly applied, and then list. Then, depending on the size of the set, I take the set apart (potentially sort it, but that is not a must) and make a clear note in my listing that the set is complete (with either “missing the extra pieces” or “missing minifigs” or something like that if necessary) and will be shipped disassembled in a ziploc bag.
By including pictures of the built set, I give the buyer a visual confirmation of what they can receive, and at the same time insure myself against “but the minifigs are missing” claims that can be easily disproven by just looking at the picture.
As a buyer, even if the set is built when I receive it, I will still disassemble the set, wash the pieces, and do a full inventory to make sure all pieces are included (using the inventory at the end of the manual, or using the BrickLink inventory in BrickStock). So there is no difference for me between a set that is shipped assembled or disassembled, apart perhaps for the extra effort in taking a built set apart.

One of the things that I was completely taken by surprise when I started buying on eBay in 2019, was that the almost everyone was sending me the sets fully and/or almost fully assembled. I even had a case where some parts were falling off the box when I received it, and another case when some part belonging to a set more than 40 years old was sent broken because - I reckon - the seller tried to partially dissassemble it and broken it in the process. I'm selling on BL and I always send everything cataloged in small ziplock bags, maybe because I love LEGO that much :)


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How can I find the original bag listing for 42083 Bugatti Chiron?
I'm buying a used set (42083 Bugatti Chiron to be specific) and I would like to sort the parts in their original module bags. However, I can only find the complete part list, not the parts per module. Does anyone have a pointer as to how to retrieve the original sorting?

As far as I know there is no such resource on the internet.
It's asked from time to time on other fora and groups I frequent, mainly from people who have a collection of bags and want to gather entire sets.
The best that can be done to get the parts per module is disassembling the set in reverse order of the instructions...


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Can anyone help identify the LEGO bags, lime, dark green, and dark grey?
I have 3 bags of LEGO. I need the instructions. Can anyone help?

These bags are from
9457-1: Fangpyre Wrecking Ball

Based on

Track Element, 5X1,5
4625623: Cupboard 2X3X2
and the multiple other Bright Yellowish Green parts

Joost, thank you so much! we bought used Lego for our kids and got unopened Lego bags from time to time. This is going to make their day. Thanks again.


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Can anyone identify the brand of this non-LEGO brick with grooved sides and a lion logo?
Hi folks I was hoping someone out there may recognise the brand of this block I found in the garden. I have been searching but the closest I can find are Locblocks - however this appears to have a Lion logo embossed on the top.

Possible duplicate of Please help identify this vintage (but non-Lego) brick!

I did see that post Phil but this is slightly different to the one posted there. It's more the brand I'm looking for so I can possibly put a date to it. I hoped the Lion on top would help to identify it.

Hi JayJ - can you include the dimensions of the brick? Or perhaps add a comparison photo alongside a LEGO 2x4?

Hi JayJ, where is the garden where you found it? UK, Canada, China, etc.?

Sorry for the late reply, time got away on me. Mike, sorry I forgot to mention I'm in Bendigo, Australia.  Ben, 31x15mm base and 9mm high.

There is a lion on the top so that might give you a clue

I have performed numerous internet searches that include the word 'lion' but have had no luck so far.

It looks more like a seal than a lion to me.

Thanks mindstormsboi, I'll hava a look.

Hang on - I recognize this! This is definitely from a knock-off brand my brother got a few months ago for his birthday. It's either from a brand called OXFORD in South Korea or from Coco, an illegal (i think) Chinese Knock-off.


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Please help identify what set this bag belongs to, white windows and fences, and tan circles

Bag indicates that it was made in 2011.

The year printed on the bag typically has more to do with the design/production of the bag, than the set it is used for.

This one is definitely from 10214 London Tower Bridge. I only have a used set that didn't have the original bags, but all parts and colors match perfectly.

The Technic Wedge Belt Wheel (Pulley) only comes in tan in 5 sets and the only one of those sets that has more than 2 (which your bag clearly does) is 10214 Tower Bridge.


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Minifigure Hand broken and stuck in arm

A friend of mine gave me some of his old minifigures. As you guys can see, the hand of one of the figures is broken and a part of the hand is stuck in the arm.
Do you have any ideas how to remove the broken part?

I think you would have to drill it out somehow, but that seems difficult. Might be easier to just replace the whole arm with some cheap blue-armed minifig from BrickLink.

I wonder if you could heat up a sewing pin with a lighter and stick it in and wait until it cools / solidifies.

That is no soldier, that is now a pirate Arrrggghh! who's hook, hat and parrot have been lost during a daring raid!

been sucessful with Aarons method twice, works fine!

Don't fix it
I sympathize with the desire to fix it, but on closer consideration it doesn't seem easy or worth it.  Getting the hand out would probably damage the arm even if you manage to do it.
Replace it
The entire torso is available for less than $1 on BrickLink.  This is the easiest path forward.  Some similar torsos are half as much if you don't need an exact match.
There are replacement arms for many colors and color combinations on BrickLink, but not a plain blue arm like this that I could find.
If you get lucky.
Apparently you can buy just the hands as Mr. Shiny and New 安宇 pointed out.  So if you manage to get the hand out without damaging the arm you can solve your problem for a few cents plus postage.
Or re-purpose it
As with all of LEGO the possibilities are limited to your imagination:

maybe this soldier had his hand cut off and he's too poor to get a  prosthetic.
maybe this guy is holding a tray of drinks on his right arm during a battle.  I don't have an arm with a missing hand to test this, but I hope something could be attached to it.
maybe he had a tragic shaving accident and you can make a bloody scene about it.
maybe this soldier put on the wrong uniform and you can live with 2 new matching arms from BrickLink that aren't entirely blue.
maybe he's sticking his arm into a bee's nest or a hole in a dike.

So I hope you can see some way to get more value out of your "broken" torso than just tossing it.  But sometimes we've gotten all of the life out of a piece and it is time to let it go.

Love the wacky re-purposes!

Hands are available for sale

I looked and looked and did not see that.  Kudos and thanks for finding what i could not.  I corrected my answer.

I've had this problem several times before. There are two general ways to solve this issue.
Brute Force Needle
Stick several needles into the arm area at an angle. Then simultaneously push down on all the other ends of the needles to unstick the needle
Hot Paperclip
This is excessive but effective.
I wore gloves and used my kitchen stove to heat up a paperclip and stuck it at an angle into the plastic. It melted the plastic and stuck really well and after the plastic solidified again (in a literally a minute) I pulled the entire stuck arm out.
Good luck!

The tiny screw method works. We dipped it in dish soap, made a tiny groove with a thumb tack and then threaded a very small screw. Used two pairs of plyers, one on the arm and one on the screw, and pulled the broken hand out with no issue.

I extracted two broken hand stumps with a hot needle and replaced them with unbroken hands from less important or otherwise broken figures.
Procedure:

Position the figure's arm pointing straight out and remove accessories that might fall off.
Hold sewing needle with pliers over stove until glowing hot.
Plunge hot needle into hand stump at an angle.
Quench with water.
Pry the hand stump out with the needle.

The needle will not have enough friction with the plastic to pull the stump straight out unless it's really lose, so the direction of pulling/prying must be at an angle from the needle.

Of the two figures I used this technique on, it worked on the first try for one and took two or three attempts (at different angles) for the other. The hand stumps were recessed to different depths.
The hot needle caused minimal distortion to the inside edge of the hand socket and did not interfere with the ability to install a new hand. With enough skill, I think you could avoid touching the arm socket at all, but I nicked mine a little tiny bit. Of course, this minifig has seen worse, so I'm not too concerned.

The king is all better now, with a new hand. The stub of an old one is on the table next to him.

Welcome to Bricks.SE! Great answer!

I just got one out using a very small drill bit and twisting it with my fingers. Took about a minute of twisting to make a hole in the hand piece. Then pressed the drill bit to the side of the hole I made and pulled it out.

If you have a tiny screw, it might be possible to screw it into the inner part and then pull on the screw to remove.
Almost like opening a bottle of wine with a corkscrew, except in this case the "cork" is set into the bottle a little.

Unless you had a super tough screw, you can't push it through the plastic. It could be melted though, to make it softer.

license: Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0/


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App (Win/Android) for managing and cataloging Lego sets
I'm looking for an app to keep track of my Lego sets. For my DVDs/BRs I'm using DVD Profiler:

Desktop application (Win 7+)
Android/iOS app
They sync by using a single account
But you can use all the apps offline as well

I don't need "fancy" functions like seeing what other sets I would be able to build with the bricks I own, I just want to add new sets on my PC (Win 7), then see which sets I own on my PC and an Android phone (offline as well!).
If I can set the purchase price and date (and maybe when I first/last built the set), that would be a huge plus but I can live without functions like that.
Is there anything like that?

Brickset allows you to do all of the things you mentioned. It's very simple to use, but it also has some optional advanced features. You can read more about keeping track of your collection on Brickset here: https://brickset.com/mycollection
There are some Brickset based apps providing options for Android and Windows 8+, although I'm not familiar enough with them to be able to recommend one that would work for you.

Unfortunately Brickset is a website and because of that I won't be able to manage my collection offline, which is a must for me. I'm looking for a Windows application with an Android "companion" app, maybe something that uses your Brickset profile?

There are some Brickset apps, although I'm not familiar enough with them to be able to recommend one that would work for you, but someone else might be able to point you in the right direction.


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Red 2x3 plate with triangle post part number?
2x3 plate with a triangular post.  Found 2 in a bin with a1 and a2 on the bottom

Does this answer your question? Part Identification - bricks with posts

These are train direction toggle posts from the old 4.5V train system. Part 3218 Train Direction Switch - 4.5V 2 x 3.


text:
What LEGO set is this thrift store find from, dark red and dark grey?
The part from a thrift store box of LEGO parts:

It appears to be the main model from Ronin R.E.X. (70735-1):


text:
Any ideas on this mostly white and dark red set?
I recently purchased quite a few Lego pieces from a neighbor. They are a bit of a mess with no instructions. I did find a couple bags that had not been opened. This is bag 2 and 3 and a couple smaller bags. I'm pretty sure bag one is already opened and in the mix of the others. Any ideas what set this could be. Thanks for any help.

Based on the White Wedge, Plate 6 x 12 Right, the Light Bluish Gray Technic, Steering Wheel Small, 3 Studs Diameter and Dark Red Wedge 3 x 4 with Stud Notches
I think these parts belong to
75003-1 : A-Wing Starfighter


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What would be the origin of these 1x1 bricks with the top part and stud having a different color?
Last weekend while visiting Legoland Germany, we found the following pieces in the discount crates:

They are white 1x1 bricks, with the top part (and stud) in light bluish gray.
What would be the origin of these pieces? How are they produced?

Looks like they may be spray-painted? Perhaps for a store display or mosaic?

Looks like they may be spray-painted? Perhaps for a store display or mosaic? – TheBrickBlogger Jul 14 at 0:40

I agree with this hypothesis. In particular, the pieces would have been assembled and then spray painted. This accounts for the faint tinge of gray on the top edge of the sides of the pieces (paint in the gap between adjacent bricks), and why some of the pieces (right side of the photo) have gray sides.
The tops of the studs look slightly less sharp than LEGO plastic molding usually is, which would be due to the paint slightly rounding everything over.
It is also unlikely that this effect would have been produced by regular injection molding, because the plastic does not enter the mold in neat flat layers so you can't do this by just putting two different colors in. "Overmolding" can create an object with two plastics stuck together, but they would have a crisp edge usually with a detectable seam, not the faintly fuzzy one here. In any case, some very unusual process would have been used, and I doubt that TLG would have gone to the trouble.
It's paint.

Please excuse my answer, because it is pure speculation.
Unfortunately, I don't know anyone that works for LEGO Germany, but Plastic Toy Industry-wise, I have a few friends that work at Hasbro headquarters in Rhode Island, USA, where their casting department spits out many prototypes of toys in the oddest of colors, where the reasoning behind doing so could be varied.
They may need to:

Test run injection molds,
Spot sculpting errors,
Test the plastic tolerances,
Test articulation,
Changing from one color to another,
See how it sits in a box for purchase.
Possible spray-painted for some type of display reason could also work here.

Somewhere in my basement I have two Transformers entirely purple given to me by my friends at Hasbro.
Check out this pretty ugly Skeletor from Mattel. If I found him in the discount crate maybe I'd buy him too... Big maybe...

So, in review, it might be rare for us outsiders to come across these items, but I don't think this is an odd thing for a company in the Plastic Toy industry to do when bringing an idea to market, thus ending my speculation on why these pieces have different colors.

LEGO most definitely produces a variety of proto types, mostly in red. Also the companies providing the ABS have their own injection molding machines to test... However, I would not expect prototype elements to turn up in the discount bins of Legoland Germany...


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What is this large drag-grey piece? I see it being sold with 9v train tracks, and it is about the same size

What is this piece?  I see it being sold with 9v train tracks

Great question! Welcome to Bricks.SE!

That's part 42936 Track System, Straight Track 16 x 8 x 2.

It was used in the Racers track system and was found in sets in the early 2000s such as 4588 Off-Road Race Track:

It really has nothing to do with 9V train track, but sellers don't always understand the details of different track systems and simply sell elements that look like track together.


text:
Set Identification: 2011 set, bag 3, #135149

Can anyone help identify which set this bag comes from?

This bag is from 75092-1: Naboo Starfighter

Based on

4655280: Plate 4X4 W/Angle
4260934: Left Shell 2X6W/Bow/Angle,Inv


text:
Which set is this bag 2 from? White airplane pieces?
Which set is it from? Can I build anything with it on its own? It says 2007 on the bag.

3367 space shuttle seems to match, although it is a 2011 set
https://www.bricklink.com/catalogItemInv.asp?S=3367-1
The tail piece does not appear in older sets in white according to bricklink...

That's the one! Thank you so much. It seems that for some reason the copy right was in 2007. Secondary question, i got that bag in an other set i got from a charity shop. What would be the best way to get the pieces from the bag 1? Or shoukd i just give up the idea and leave the pieces to my son's imagination?

The year on the bag, might just be the year the bag was produced/designed. For getting the pieces from the other bag(s) of the set (and the pieces et al. - e.g. the sticket sheet - not in any bag), you can use bricklink, if you make a wish list I believe you can make bricklink tell you which seller has the most of the needed parts, but it's going to be a lot of work, and if you can't find one or two sellers that have everything, shipping costs might make it more expensive than just ordering the complete set.

More likely in my opinion that the 2007 is another code altogether than that the bag was produced/designed 4 years in advance...

The design of the bag (typography, placement of text, production mechanism) was copyrighted in 2007 and likely used from that year onwards until replaced with the next style bag (copyright 2011), which is used on some current sets still, even though it has been replaved by yet another design (with the white band down the middle) in 2017.


text:
Can anyone identify this Lego piece? Clear red Bionicle head with clip?
I got this in a big box of LEGO from my cousin and this was in there. When I asked him he said he didn't know anything about it. I also couldn't find anything on the Internet about it. It has no identification number or any other marking except Lego 2003. I was wondering if this was a prototype. If anyone can identify it I will be very happy.

Is there a number anywhere on it, maybe next to the Lego brand?

Looks like it's got a "(c) LEGO 2005" (or maybe 2003) on it.

IDK what it is, but it looks similar to a BIONICLE Toa Mata head. What does the back look like? Is there something inside it?

Whatever this is, it's not one of a kind. This eBay listing, however, contains no information on it other than the possibility of it being a replacement part. No part number.

Can we get more pictures from other angles?

Maybe put something known in the pictures, so we get an idea of scale.

It's from a tooth brush. It is the thing that covers the brush itself. Here is a better picture of the green one.

Another picture :


text:
Can anyone identify this dark grey remote control and receiver with yellow and orange buttons?
Does anybody have an idea where this remote control and receiver are originally from:

Bionicle manas set 8539.
Top part from your foto. Bottom one.


text:
Can you identify this minifigure with green skin and red hat?
I would like to know who this minifigure is or what set it belongs to.

The minifigure that you have is Kithaba from Star Wars:
https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?M=sw397#T=P
it appears in this set:
9496-1: Desert Skiff


text:
Identify these window panels ~4x3
These window panels came in a bulk buy and don't fit any of the accompanying windows. I would have dismissed them as not LEGO, except the greenness exactly matches other trans green elements. They are approximately 4 studs wide and 3 high, therefore they do not fit inside a frame of that size, and are too small for the next size up.

These glass panels are
Trans-Green Glass for Window 4 x 4 x 3 Roof
from  6940-1 - Alien Moon Stalker
they fit with
4447 -  Window 4 x 4 x 3 Roof
4741 - Window 4 x 4 x 6 Outward Sloping


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What is this 2x2 white brick in the shape of a figure driving a go kart?
I have a 2x4 white Lego brick in the shape of a figure driving a go kart. It has a stalk to accommodate a head with Lego embossed on it. There is no serial number except for a 4 stamped underneath. Does anyone know what this brick is and what set it's from?

Welcome to Bricks.SE!

Based on your description, i think you have
x351 - Brick, Modified 2 x 2 Racer Driver No Head

This comes from:
4593-1: Zero Hurricane and Red Blizzard


text:
Re-building sets - paid services?
My son has A LOT of LEGO sets, which have sadly broken down into many, many millions of pieces. Does anyone know of any paid services that might help re-build his sets.
I know this sounds like it goes against the principles of LEGO, but really it's just too daunting, and he's lost interest because of it.

With “services”, do you mean someone who would come out to your house and rebuild the sets for you? As intriguing as that sounds, I do not believe something like that exists. Your best bet is to grab an instruction manual and start rebuilding from the pieces. Once you have a few sets built this way, it’ll become easier to rebuild the remaining sets. For sets that you know he has but you cannot find a manual, go to lego.com to download the instructions. Then, once it’s down to a few unknown sets, make pictures of the unusual pieces and post them here - we can help you identify the set(s).

Adding to this, OP could even invite some friends over to help with the process. Many kids and adults are really neat, organized, or even OCD, and they love sorting and organizing LEGO pieces. Put on some soft background music and it can be an almost therapeutic experience.

You're correct that it's absurd; services to build your Legos for you do not exist to my knowledge.
I would try taking an evening and organizing the parts that you have. Make it a parent-son thing - order a pizza, put on a movie, spread out everything you have on the floor and start separating the parts into groups. My suggestion: First group by general type (plates, bricks, hinges, etc), then by color.
Then comes the fun part: rebuilding. If you remember any of the sets that you have, you can download building instructions from the Lego website here. Once you're done separating by color/type it should be trivial to find the parts you need for any particular set.
Or just eschew this entire process altogether and encourage him to build something entirely from his imagination. Either way, your encouragement and/or involvement is a good thing.

I would argue that sorting by type first is better than colour in you are working to instructions. For example in a pile of black pieces it is hard to find the exact brick you need, but in a pile of 2x2 bricks it is easy to find the black one.

@Craig I agree with your suggestion and have edited the post accordingly.

A very important aspect of building with LEGO is finding the parts! It builds character: patience, fine motor skills, visual acuity, spatial relations, and the appreciation for randomly associating parts. Over time it will make you a better builder, as your LEGO "vocabulary" will get much better. You learn what parts look like rotated & upside down, their sizes, especially in relation to each other. And you learn your inventory.


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Are there any difference between the Power Functions 88003 and 99499 L motors?
I am planning to attempt a couple of RC MOCs and was looking up the power functions L motor on BL and found that there are actually 2 types of the L motor, namely the "88003 Power Functions L Motor" and the "99499 Power Functions 9V L Motor". From the somewhat limited information I could google, it seems like the 88003 can run on variable voltage (while I can't find the info on the 9V 99499 motor), it also seem like even their weights are different?
Can someone advice, or point me towards where I can find more information on these?

According to bricklink, 88003 is the set containing exactly one part, namely the 99499 motor.
You can buy the motor as a set in LEGO shops or online, it's packaged in a plastic bag, which probably accounts for the 3 gram weight difference between the items.
To my knowledge there are no different versions of the Power Functions L motor.
Here is the list of the sets the motor appears in, note that 88003 is listed as well:
https://www.bricklink.com/catalogItemIn.asp?P=99499c01&in=S

Hi Michael, that's great many thanks. Just got a little thrown off because the seller I was planning to purchase the motors from had both types at different prices(99499 being 10% more than the 88003). This was also made worse by the additional information/photo on BL that is different for both parts. when bricklink uses a different photo for both parts.

To me it seems that the picture for the set (88003) is the same as the picture LEGO S@H uses on its site to sell the set, while the picture for the part (99499) is a home-made picture taken by the bricklinker who added the entry... I have no idea why the BL seller would sell the single motor at a greater price than a packaged motor, I would expect it to be the other way around as a packaged motor is guaranteed 'new'...


text:
EV3 Brick and Commander app Bluetooth disconnecting
On iOS on an iPad, we're having an issue with the EV3 Brick and Commander app Bluetooth connection constantly disconnecting. The brick just stops responding, so we turn the brick off to disconnect and then reconnect Bluetooth via the app. After doing this it connects for a brief time, we're able to control the brick for a moment but very soon it disconnects again.
The app works just fine from an iPhone. So I'm assuming it's something to do with the app or Bluetooth on the iPad.
Any suggestions on how to fix?

Are you using iOS? Does the iOS setting on the EV3 match what you are using (turned on if you are using iOS, turned off if you are using anything else)?

Yes, using the IOS app - yes that matches.

Is it shutting down when it disconnects?


text:
Which set is this with a white truck and camper trailer?
I’ve been searching online for quite some time to find this set number, name, and the instructions, but I’ve had no luck. I’ll be passing it on to a youngster in the family and after it’s promptly destroyed I was hoping to have the instructions for him. Thanks!

Welcome to Bricks.SE!

I believe this is the set:
https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?S=6345-1
I searched on the vehicle roof piece, only 48 sets have it in white...
The instructions for this part of the set are pages 3 through 9 and are available on Peeron.

Thanks so much! That’s definitely it. I appreciate your help!

Set Number: 6345.
Name: Aerial Acrobats.
Instructions: We have at least 3 options: Two options are for free digital. One option is a physical purchase.

Option 1. Here are free online digital instructions for this
set.

Option 2. Skip over to YouTube and watch a speed build of this
set. In settings, (gear icon), you can slow the playback speed
of the video and easily glean an understanding of the build.

Option 3. It is possible to download and keep YT videos, but...if you
still want to keep things traditional by wanting a physical hard copy
for said youngster's future inheritance, then head on over to
Bricklink, where for under $10 bucks, you should be able to purchase the actual instruction booklet for this set.


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Lego Set ID for white curved pieces with blue Police stickers?
I got another police set but can't find directions.

The parts with "Polizei" are from the 7741 Police Helicopter set.
Other parts are from the 7286 Prisoner Transport set (parts with "Police" and "03").
The license plate is from the Fire Truck of the 7206 Fire Helicopter set.


text:
Can you help me identify this poly bag #4 with many grey pieces?

We got this bag in a free box and don't know what it is!

I'll be happy to help out, my Friend. It comes from Set #75103 First Order Transporter.
See ya around Space Cowboy!

@aQui Welcome to Bricks! If this has answered your question, you can click the tick mark and the upvote arrow to the left of the answer to let others know that this was helpful and answered :)


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Is it possible to remove a parted out set from BrickLink inventory?
I have an inventory in BrickLink, in which I accidentally parted out (with the consolidation option) two sets instead of one.
Is there a way to remove the pieces of the second set somehow without manual part-by-part deletion?

Good question. It's not that obvious, it seems.

According to this help article, you can, incredibly, part out a negative number of a set, which will result in the subtraction of that number of sets worth of parts from your inventory. I haven't been able to get this to work for my wanted list, though, and I'm not a seller (yet) so I can't verify if this works for sellers.

I can second LegoSonicBoy's comment. When I was a seller I wanted to remove the individual parts and add the set as an item. This can be done by parting out a negative set. Items can't have a quantity less than zero, so don't worry if you don't have all the parts in the inventory. I'd also suggest for LegoSonicBoy to post an answer :)

Part out the same set, but with a negative quantity.
This does indeed work, as I have solved this very problem using this solution in the past:

This is a screenshot of my Part Out Log, and you can see I've accidentally parted out 10 sets twice. Then I've reversed the second part-out.
You can see a list of every set you've parted out (after mid-2009) and the quantity in your Part Out Log.

I don't really think there is any way to do so other than to look at the inventory of the set and then do the manual part by part deletion, but if the parts from the parted out set consist of most or all the pieces in the cart then you could probably jot down the numbers of the parts not included in the set and delete everything in the cart. my answer could very well be incorrect or unusable, but this is the best I can do. Hope it helps.


text:
Any ideas how to separate these lobed gears and lightsaber pieces?
Any help please? I've got these two pieces stuck together and not sure what to try! I don't want to break the pieces...

A possible solution I frequently use in such cases:
Cover the transparent bar into something soft, e.g. a few layers of paper tissue and fix that part in a vise or a pliers. Tissues will prevent the tool from leaving marks on the bar. When the bar is sufficiently fixed you can simultaneously pull and carefully rotate the yellow piece back and forth until it comes off. You can use some soap to make it easier.


text:
Get robot to face perpendicular to nearest object, using the ultrasonic sensor in NXC?
I have an ultrasonic sensor attached to a motor so that the sensor can rotate. Right now it stops once it scans a value less than 65 cm. What I want it to do is to scan its surroundings and then face the ultrasonic sensor perpendicular to a the closest object.
task findWall()
{
     OnFwd(OUT_C, 30);
     until(SensorUS(IN_4)<65);
     Off(OUT_BC);
}

I like your username. I'm not exactly good at NXC either, but I'm experienced in C and Java. So here's some pseudocode that should get the job done. This will rotate the scanning motor 180 degrees, while remembering the closest object it's seen, and then rotating that motor back to point towards the closest object. You will need to change the functions to correspond to the actual NXC functions.
int closestObjectDist = 100; //variable records the closest object's distance
int closestObjectAngle = 0;  //variable records the angle pointing to the closest object
int currentAngle = 0;        //variable to hold the scanning motor's current angle.
int currentDistance = 0;     //variable to hold the sensor's current distance reading

resetScanningMotorAngle();   //reset the scanning motor's angle to 0.
turnScanningMotorOn(10);     //start rotating the scanning motor, slowly.

while(currentAngle < 180)    //repeat until the scanning motor has rotated 180 degrees
{
    currentAngle = getScanningMotorDegrees();  //get the motor's current angle
    currentDistance = readUltrasonicSensor();  //get the sensor's current distance

    if( currentDistance < closestObjectDistance )  // Here's the important part:
    {                                              // When the sensor reads a distance that
        closestObjectDistance = currentDistance;   // is the smallest distance yet,
        closestObjectAngle = currentAngle;         // record the angle and distance.
    }
}
                                            //now we have the closest object's angle stored!
rotateScanningMotorTo(closestObjectAngle);  //rotate the motor back to the recorded angle.

This code assumes that the robot scans in a 180-degree arc, but you could easily just change the 180 to 360 to scan in a full circle.
After the loop, you can add or subtract 90 degrees to closestObjectAngle to make the motor point perpendicular to the closest object instead of pointing AT the closest object.
Ask if you have any questions!


text:
Can you please identify these two assemblies, dark grey, dark red, yellow, and tan plus Technic treads with large orange pieces?
Set assemblies 1

Set assemblies 2

In the top image you have parts of 7656-1: General Grievous Starfighter and
7669-1: Anakin's Jedi Starfighter.
In the second image you have parts of
7706-1: Mobile Defense Tank

Thanks a lot.  Out of curiosity, did you happen to own the kits, or something you had seen in the past?  Thanks again

@pete I have a good memory, and build with the Exo-Force set before.


text:
Large Lego Ninjago package, no box and no instructions, many red and black pieces
These packages were all unopened. Only package number five came with a Ninjago mini figure.
Could someone possibly be able to get me the box information so I can look up the instructions!

Given the red quarter domes, I'm fairly certain the bricks are from this set:
https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?S=70615-1

https://media3.webcollage.net/e7591287200999f3ebb67aeb1d0fe6a13bc25874?response-content-type=image%2Fjpeg&AWSAccessKeyId=AKIAIIE5CHZ4PRWSLYKQ&Expires=1893517796&Signature=t%2BOpkHf7lQPzrB3%2FPzdgFauejow%3D   fire disk match too

Thanks for all your help! Awesome! On the instruction booklet, the Pieces i have match bags five through eight I just don’t have bags one through four do you know of a website that sells just certain bags out of boxes

I'm afraid I don't know of such website and I think it unlikely to exist. You could probably create a "wanted list" on bricklink if you have the time and patience to go through the inventory list and strike out the pieces you have. Not sure if buying the missing pieces on bricklink will eventually be cheaper than buying the set new or secondhand


text:
What is this heavy red LEGO piece with no obvious connectors?

I got a bulk box of LEGO on eBay and this was in it. It has the LEGO logo at either end but the pegs at the bottom don’t connect to anything. It’s heavy, like a battery, but no connectors and it doesn’t come apart. It doesn’t appear to be magnetic. Any ideas?

Keel for red ships.  I had several of those in the early 70'es.

I think it would make more sense to reverse the duplicate direction, since the other question is about a broken version of this piece.

It's a Boat Keel Weighted 8 x 2 x 4.

Which attaches to the bottom of a boat hull, providing sub-surface ballast necessary to keep the boat steady. There are also weighted bricks one may use in the hold of the larger cargo hull, though those are often used on trains.

+1, I had that boat as a kid! Totally forgot about it but instantly recognized the part. :)

I second Henrik's answer: I immediately recognize this part of this boat I used to play in my bath a lot with when I was a kid:


text:
What is this 3 x 8 orange curved piece from?
My dad recently gave me a large box of LEGO pieces that belong to sets. I found two pieces that appear to be the front of a car. I was wondering if you guys could help me out. I would love to know what it came from so I could maybe put it back together.

The pieces are
41750 Wedge 8 x 3 x 2 Open Left.
and
41749 Wedge 8 x 3 x 2 Open Right
(respectively).
Those pieces have only been in the following 2 sets in that color:
3830-1 - The Bikini Bottom Express

7706-1 - Mobile Defense Tank

I'm kinda new here, if the OP wanted to know what the pieces were, would you give them an element ID or would you pick a part number from one of the places that lists parts?

@Raystafarian I'd probably give them an official part number if possible and a link to the part on BrickLink.

@AlexanderO'Mara: could you throw the part ID's in there somehow?


text:
Partial set identification
Hi,
I bought a bag of sealed LEGO from the second hand shop. It is labelled 6 so must be part of a larger set. Is anyone able to identify it?

The "Red Support 1 x 6 x 5 Girder Rectangular" answers this.
It's only in two sets, and in 3368 there are 10, which your picture doesn't show, so this is probably 4430 Fire transporter.
EDIT: There are no "Trans-Light Blue Panel 1 x 2 x 2 with Side Supports - Hollow Studs" in 3368, so this is definitely 4430.


text:
What minifig and set is this shirt from?

I’ve googled trying to figure out where this piece came from but I have no idea.
Please help me figure out what minifigure this shirt from? Also, if it’s from a larger set.

This torso belongs to Deadshot as he appears in 76053 Gotham City Cycle Chase.


text:
Capture video stream from LEGO Studio Camera (Logitech USB webcam) in ev3dev?
Once upon a time, LEGO made a digital camera for the LEGO Studios and Mindstorms line. Internally it's an old USB Logitech camera repackaged in a LEGO housing.

It could also be used with the old LEGO Mindstorms software, to do some very weak video recognition when connected to a PC.
Fast forward some years, and Mindstorms are much more powerful, and even have a USB port, which this camera can be attached to, as some people have done.

When used with ev3dev, it's even possible to take some low-res pictures with it using a CLI tool like fswebcam.
However, I'd like to use it as a webcam, and capture a constant video stream from it, so I can use it in competitions where only official LEGO parts are allowed. Seems easy enough, but I've so far been unsuccessful.
It seems that OpenCV doesn't support the camera, because it uses an unusual pixel format encoding. Has anyone found a good solution for capturing a constant video stream? Something better than repeatedly calling fswebcam and parsing the output file (which would be unnecessarily slow).

Can you verify which model of Logitech camera is inside?  If so you may be able to find archived drivers for it and see if they work. Also, what operating system are you running? I have had pretty good luck with Windows backwards compatibility.

@JohnnyB In order to run on the brick, it would need to be compatible with an OS the brick can run, like the ARM-based Linux of ev3dev. Any old drivers for the "046d:0850 Logitech, Inc. QuickCam Web" wouldn't help.

So you want to run it directly from the brick? I didn't catch that part...

Fswebcam on ev3dev should already be using a v4l2 API backed by a v4l2 compatible driver.
The first thing I would look at is v4l-info to understand the pixel formats supported.
Next, I would try ev3dev OpenCV with a known good webcam - if it fails OpenCV may just be built without webcam support.
If OpenCV works with other webcams and v4l-info shows the info, you may have to patch OpenCV to understand the pixel format. Potentially you could patch the Lego camera driver to speak a format OpenCV already understands. With either approach you could do the development and testing on a desktop (might be faster than building OpenCV from source on ARM9)

Since I'm no software engineer my solution would be to retrofit the insides with known compatible hardware. Cheating? Maybe... but it isn't like the original hardware inside was actually Lego to begin with.  The mention of potentially using "compatible software" would seem to be already stepping out of bounds with "only official Lego parts", since it didn't come packaged with it. So...


text:
About selling old LEGO, by the pound or assembled?
I was just wondering how much does a pound of bulk usually sell for. I also have tons of star wars mini-figs, including tons of clone troopers of different kinds, stormtroopers, battle droids, but some are relatively worn, are they worth anything? I also have some pretty destroyed sets that can probably be rebuilt but I don't have the instructions anymore, should I just disassemble them?

I think the good answer better cover how to actually sell effectively, is bricklink good for selling small amounts.

In general, a pound of LEGO goes $5-$10, depending on what's included and the condition of the parts.
As far as how much your minifigures are worth, you can go to BrickLink.com, find the minifigures you have in their database, and check the Price Guide. It will list all the currently available minifigs sold by shops around the world, and sales figures from the past six month. There are separate columns for new and used figures, so you will get a good idea of what minifigs in similar condition as yours are selling for. To get you started, here is the main page for all the Star Wars figures: https://www.bricklink.com/catalogList.asp?catType=M&catString=65&itemBrand=1000
In regards to sets, you can check the BrickLink Price Guide for those as well. Some might be worth selling assembled, while for others it doesn't matter. You can download instruction from LEGO's website here:  https://www.lego.com/en-us/service/buildinginstructions

I'm also interested. Is it easy to sell via bricklink? (maybe it deserves a separate question...). I'm at all not sure ordinary lego user can sell easily at these prices..

Alexei, maybe you can clarify what is your definition of easy. In general, yes, selling on BL is easy. You follow the directions to set up an account and open a store. You select the parts/sets/minifigs you have, their condition, how many you have, etc., then add them to your store inventory. You wait for orders, follow the directions to send out invoices, collect payment, and ship packages. If you ever sold on anything eBay it is basically the same process. If not, it will probably take you a bit longer. People from all walks of life and all countries sell on both on eBay and BrickLink.


text:
Can you identify these 1x2 and 2x2 bricks with grooves?
As far as I understand, these are modified with groove bricks. However, search for 'groove' on BrickLink gives only left one. Which are the other two? Which other parts have similar vertical groove and do not have 'groove' word in the name?

Actually found via Google pictures. On bricklink need to use 'grooves' in search, partial matches do not work there.

They do if you put an asterisk (*) at the end of the search word, such as "groove*". I am not sure about other placeholder symbols.

Here are the listings from Bricklink.com (left to right).
Brick, Modified 1 x 2 with Groove
https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=4216#T=C
Brick, Modified 2 x 2 with Grooves and Axle Hole
https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=90258#T=C
I'm not sure about the last one. Maybe:
Brick, Modified 2 x 2 x 6 with Groove
https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=6056#T=C


text:
NXT Sensors not working
I'm looking for advice. I pulled my Mindstorms 8547 kit out of storage and started to play with it after several years of inactivity.
I found that the Color Sensor, the Ultra Sonic Sensor, and the position read back on motors all do not function. I downloaded the latest software and firmware version 1.31.
Any idea what is going on? Do I need to go back to a previous firmware version to get things to work as they did originally?
Any advice is appreciated, thank you.

Is there any chance it's simply your code that isn't working? Could you add a screenshot of the program you're using to test the functions?

Using the "View" directly from the NXT brick to test the sensors, just get all ?????on the display with the color or ultrasonic sensor plugged in.

Check for 5V on the two middle pins of the motor connectors (plug a cable into the brick, no motor on the other end,  and measure volatege on the contacts of the open other end). NXT/EV3 have separate power to all the sensors, if there's a short (failed capacitor or similar) or the power chip failed then the brick will still work, but the sensors won't get power.

This honestly just sounds like a faulty cable. See the NXT cable pinout below. If wire 5 or 6 is damaged it will cause digital I2C sensors to fail. This includes the color and ultrasonic sensors, but not the (analog) touch sensors.
Also, according to this source, pin 5 and 6 are also used for the motor encoders. So damage to 5 or 6 will cause rotation feedback to fail.
This sounds exactly like the issues you are having. The solution? Try a different cable to confirm that the issue is a faulty wire, then (optionally) buy new cables from here.


text:
Are These Minifig Helmet, Hair, and Stingray Accessories Official LEGO Parts?
I bought some minifigures on the internet, but these helmet, hair, and animal parts only have NUMBERS on them, but no LEGO logo.
They feel like LEGO, but I'm not sure. Does anyone know a way?

Welcome to BRICKS!
These are the four official LEGO parts you questioned.
Cross check their part numbers with the ones you've got on hand.
If they match, then they're good.
See ya!
Part# 61189pb03.

Part# 15083pb01.

Part# 30084.

Part# 43753.


text:
Why did LEGO switch the direction of flag elements in 2008?
Having just gotten back into LEGO this year, I noticed that the flags in my new sets are mirrored from all the flags I used to have. On the left is a green flag from 4162 FreeStyle Multibox from 1995, and on the right is a red flag from 10404 Ocean's Bottom from this year — notice that they flow in opposite directions:

According to BrickLink, this change was made in 2008, and the original mold stopped appearing in sets in 2010.
What was the reason for this change?

Maybe a radical change in the flag mold policy?

An informed answer seems unlikely, uninformed guesses are legion. My guess is the molding tool designer was thinking a flag is a flag just make it wave, It will be 8 years before any asks about it on Stack Exchange.

I asked them over chat and the answer was :

There's no a special reason, it's due to the mold. I know, it's not very romantic!

Nice one! However, I would have liked to see more speculations about flag directions. Which chat did you use to contact LEGO employees?

@Aziraphale lego.com support section

Oh, it's that simple!? Actually, the LEGO answer is no answer at all. The shape of the piece is due to the mold. But WHY did they change it? That is the big mystery. Maybe a struggle between left-wing and right-wing politicians in the LEGO hierarchy?

@Aziraphale lol nice point

Yeah, no, like @Aziraphale said, that doesn't answer my question at all. The shape coming from the mold is obvious - it should be pretty clear that I'm asking why they changed the mold. If they don't have an answer to that, they can say so and I can roll with that, but as it is right now it just looks like they didn't understand my question at all. Having said that, I'm not in the business of shooting the messenger so I won't downvote this answer - I'll abstain from voting instead. I'll assume the 3 upvotes are for your taking the trouble.

@LegoSonicBoy I am fine with that and my digging is still not stopped to get more


text:
What's the best way to start an 8 year old on Lego Technic building?
I'm a grandpa trying to start my 8 year old grandson in LEGO Technic building. I am particularly interested in mechanical parts building and motorization. He already loves LEGO and attends after school and summer classes at school which focus on LEGO and coding.
Piecemeal I purchased all LEGO motors along with a bag of assorted bricks (I just don't understand if there is a difference between so called original bricks and LEGO Technic pieces). I also bought Crazy Action Contraptions for him, which seemed to me to be the most elementary.
I apologize to you pros out there, but I'm such a novice that I had to ask my question this way.

Hi DRS, and welcome to bricks.stackexchange.com! There is no need for apologies, everyone was a beginner once :) Could you please tell us more about yourself and your grandson, especially about your grandson's experience with LEGO? The situation could be really different if he has not had any exposure to LEGO yet or if he already likes LEGO.

Zovits, I worked in the forging industry for my career as a Purchasing Mgr.  We forged parts for the construction equipment, agriculture and gear shops nationwide.  My grandson loves Lego and has for a long time.  Wednesday's after school and through the summer he attends a Lego class at school which is directly tied into coding.  I was hoping to tie Lego Technic and coding and mechanics together.  Thank you for your comment, a valuable one.

The best way would definitely be to appeal to his already existing preferences and show him how LEGO Technic can integrate into that or even enhance that.
Does he like cars? Let's build a simple car with him, later add a steering system, and still later a motor for driving.
Does he like robots? Offer to build a robot, with gears to move the arms, legs, head, etc. These can be motorized later as well.
The same can be done with planes, boats, farm machinery, animals, almost anything he might fancy.
You mention Crazy Action Contraptions, you could sit down with him and build some of the models included. Along this process you'd be able to gauge his interests both by area (i.e. does he like the Speedster or the Grabber more) and by general attitude (does he even like the whole building, or is he just waiting for you to finish it so he can play, or does he even care about it at all).
As alluded to in the last sentence, you should be mentally prepared for the possibility that you might not be successful, as he might not be interested in the topic. Don't take this personally, we all have different interests and forcing things usually don't turn out well.

just don't understand if there is a difference between so called original bricks and Lego Technic pieces

This sentence hints at your own inexperience regarding the subject, maybe in this case you can approach the topic as a common learning process, where you both venture out to explore the world of LEGO Technic. Alternatively, you could get familiar with the terminology, basic building techniques and principles so that you can coach him. Either approach is viable, they just require different attitudes and preparations - you can switch between them however, if the need arises.

Instead of providing a pile of assorted Technic bricks and motors, I would (and already did) rather start with medium-sized sets. This guarantees success and shows how everything fits together nicely. I am doing this with regular LEGO sets and my children are already demanding larger and larger sets. MOCs (i.e. "My Own Creations") can follow later.

I'm just going down this route with my 7 year old.
The old style primary colour gears (G9 / G15 / G21) have proved to be better for little fingers and more engaging than the "standard" technic gears, if you can get hold of them in sufficient quantity.
Of course, some of the model instructions we've followed have required a little adapting, but that's all part of the fun.


text:
Can I convert my train 9V 4563 to the Power Functions motor?
The motor of my locomotive is dead.
I have two choices : repurchase it or buy a Power Functions replacement.

It is possible of customize my train 4563 to use the Power Functions motor?
If yes, what set to buy ? (88002, 8879, 8878 another?)

To expand on Michael's link-only answer: Older train motors were powered by the track and the speed of the train is controlled by a track-side switch.
Newer PF trains are powered by the battery box on the train and controlled by the remote which sends IR signals to the IR receiver.
This means your train needs room for

the wire from the motor to the IR sensor,
the IR sensor and its wire to the battery box, and
the battery box

Fitting these into an older train or a modern train not designed for PF (such as the Constitution Train Chase) requires some rebuilding and some compromises. For the Constitution Train Chase I had to modify the coal tender to hold the battery box and the motor, and I had to put the IR sensor in the cab of the locomotive. This means unsightly wires slung between cars. However, when the train is in motion you don't really see that.
For a locomotive that already is designed to accommodate the old motor, there may be room inside it to fit the battery box and the IR sensor. You will have to sacrifice some of the interior.
Note that for summer 2018 there is a new train Power Functions system coming out, which is going to use a different system: a new motor connection, a new battery box, a new remote. The battery box will have Bluetooth or some other radio-frequency controller in it and thus you won't need the IR sensor anymore. This will save a lot of room in builds and eliminate the need for line of sight.

Here's LEGO's official answer to this:

Motorizing older trains using Power Functions
We introduced LEGO® Power Functions in 2009 as the new electric building system to replace the 9V, 12V and RC systems. What’s great about Power Functions is that they can still power your favorite trains from years ago!
You might have to make some slight changes to the design to fit the Power Functions elements, but here’s what you’ll need to get you trains updated:

Either 88000 LEGO® Power Functions AAA Battery Box or 8878 LEGO® Power Functions Rechargeable Battery Box and 45517 Transformer 10V DC
8884 LEGO® Power Functions IR Receiver
8879 LEGO® Power Functions IR Speed Remote Control
88002 LEGO® Power Functions Train Motor with 8886 LEGO® Power Functions Extension Wire

Perhaps you'll need an extra wagon to hold the battery box.

all_licenses: Creative Commons - Attribution Share-Alike - https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/3.0/


text:
Which set does this bag belong to? Blue and clear orange pieces
Hi can you please help identify which product this belongs to? Bought this from second hand shop.
The spiked flail is part of a smaller bag - no number however it was in a larger bag with a large number 2 on it, below which are the numbers 304R7:

Hope this helps in identifying it.

You mean this: https://brickset.com/sets/containing-part-4613938 ?

Can you post a picture of the bag?

Updated my answer with set identification based on the picture.

Based on the title of the post and Larme’s clarifying comment, you are looking at 59232 Minifig, Weapon Spiked Flail/Mace in a bag with date code 304R7 (which indicates this bag was produced in 2017).

Looking at BrickLink, there are several sets made in 2017 that have this element in Flat Silver (no other color was produced recently). There is one set from 2016 but that set did not come with bags AFAIK. Most are from the Nexo Knights range, but one is from the Super Hero Girls line. If the bag has no large number on it, it must have come from a small set, for example 70361 Macy’s Dropbot Dragon. If the bag does have a large number on it (1, 2, 3 etc) it will be from a larger set. Without more information on what is in the bag besides the Flail, it is impossible to narrow the set down further.
UPDATE: Now that a bag picture has been provided, it is clear this bag belongs to set 70351 Clay’s Falcon Fighter Blaster from the Nexo Knights theme. The Technic connector with hole in the middle in Orange is only in this set (out of all the sets on the list containing the Flail).

Bags without large numbers on them are also found inside of bags with large numbers on them in some larger sets, when the only knowledge of where it comes from is "second hand shop", we can't really rule out that it's a larger set where a numbered bag was opened, but the smaller unnumbered bags inside weren't.

Now that a picture of the bag has been supplied it should hopefully be possible to narrow the set down by inspecting the other parts in the bag.

Yes, posted the other answer on an account that asked me to register. Thank you for pointing me to the merge account. Thank you all for your help. I found the instructions online and successfully assembled clay's falcon fighter blaster. However, I am missing bag #1 and had a few extra pieces left.


text:
What is the best solution to power up two 5292 buggy motors?
I have two buggy motors, 5292 like this:

I see powering each separately and using two IR receivers soon triggers the receivers' protections and the motors are stopped.
My aim is not speed, I see battery options powering with 7.2-7.5V instead of others powering with 9V, obviously the latter ones performs faster, but I try to have a safely working setup, without burning components.

What is the best way to power up them?
Is there a way to avoid using Android apps and bluetooth, or EV3 stuff, by using an IR setup at all?
Is it possible to avoid SBicks and BuWizz?
If not, are these reliable? I see people talking about LiPo instability. Is it that fire-hazardous?
Having in mind that Lego has overheat protections that often stop the motors on load, first question would be: is there a setup with Lego's LiPo battery to avoid the known hiccups behavior, without bypassing the protections?

And I have a side question: how to control a  buggy motor using its box 54734, that come together in the 8287 set, with an IR Receiver? Mine simply does not power up the IR. I've tried all Lego Power Functions extension cables, the IR receiver doesn't lit.

Update
I have a RC power unit now:

A thing that nobody tells ~ and I've searched a lot ~ is that steering goes 45°, unlike the servo motor that goes for 90°.

Building big means heavy (I try the agrof's class 1 buggy), so I've used multiplication twice in order to achieve the same 90° with the RC unit. This powered down the steering so it could not work when not running. A crackling sound is heard from it too, when tried. The multiplication is like this:
 →  →  →
agrof's steering is pretty complicated to change in order to use a 20T instead of 12T due to the steering wishbones and link positioning, as the 20T is bigger in diameter. Also, don't know if it is enough.

Now, similar to Michael Verschaeve's idea, the 45° steering could be used to action a switch in order to steer using a servo motor, but seems pretty weird to me.

Can you show some links to what others have tried and tested?

Here: 1. Philo's video; 2. Philo's full article; 3. Sariel's.

In my experience, the hickups occur in about 30 seconds, all parts are new (I've unsealed them myself...). Each motor has its own receiver.

Perhaps get a hold of the RC units that came with the buggy? Afterall, those were designed for it ...

The buggy motor comes in a set , 8287, having no remote or receiver.

It also comes in 8475, having it's own powersource, RC receiver combination, a steering unit and a RC remote. It's from this set the motor derives it's colloquial name...

The Lipo, thermal protections kicks in when consuming about 1A, while the buggy motor will consume 1.3 A when loaded but not stalled.
So for two buggy motors, best would be 3 lipo's in parallel but perhaps you can get away with 2.
The V1 receiver, only 850 mA before the protection kicks in, so not enough to power 1 buggy motor, let alone 2.
The V2 receiver, 1.5 A before the protection kicks in, enough to power 1 buggy motor...
What might be a solution is having the V1 receiver control a medium motor or servo which mechanically switches a 8869 control switch which in turn switches the buggys on and off...
As for the old battery box, I think the reason you don't get it to power a V1 receiver is because power functions have two pairs of wires, a control pair and a pair that gives a constant voltage.
M,L and XL motors only use the control pairs of wires.
A servo uses the voltage pair to keep its position and the control pair to determine the position.
A receiver uses the input voltage pair to power itself, ignores the input control pair, forwards the voltage pair to the output voltage pairs and places control voltage on the output control pairs as it's instructed by the remote.
When using PF to 9V conversion cables, I think only the control pairs get connected, never the voltage pairs so the receivers cannot be powered by 9V battery boxes or cables...

Good information, but I've read that using V2 receiver and a 8881 battery box will trigger the box protection, so it will stop the buggy attached eventually (presuming one box per motor is set, for testing reasons). The original buggy receiver would be better? What would be the drawbacks?

The buggy receiver drawbacks, shape and size might be a bit inconvenient. Main drawback will be the availability, they are hard to find in good condition and hence costly...

Actually I have one. But the true drawback is the steering. It goes 45 degrees only, compared to the servo motor which goes 90 degrees. Multiplication twice gains the degrees, but loses to much power and works when running only. My actual design makes things really complicated to change (see argof's class 1 buggy for reference), as a bigger tooth gear being problematic.

I think it would be better if you start a new question regarding the steering with buggies. Now this thread is getting a bit convoluted in my opinion

I think that too, still, when powering with the RC version, the steering comes built in, so people should know what they get, that being not optional.


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What part is this 2x2 curved slope?
This is the piece I'm looking for:

I need the part number.

Welcome to Bricks.SE!

The part number is in the picture.

That is 15068 PLATE W. BOW 2X2X2/3:

Or as Bricklink calls it: Slope, Curved 2x2 No Studs.


text:
What LEGO set are these decorated tiles from?
I have a box of LEGO from when my husband was younger and I have been going through and putting them in their sets for my son. I have now run out of the instruction books and still have some sets left.
Can anyone identify what set these pieces pictures may have come from? It seems like his sets are all from the 90’s.

Oh wow nostalgia kicked in. I had this when I was a kid

I still have some Spyrius sets. Not complete, but the printed parts are all there.

These came from a number of sets, including a handy "Decorated Elements" set that covered most of the printed parts from the mid-90s space theme.
However, Recon Robot appears to be the only one that contains two of the 2x2 tiles and only one of the 2x1 tiles.
Instructions can be found in a number of places, including on Let's Build It Again.

Those old-school sets made my young me drool looking at those product catalogs that came with the Lego sets back them. Recon Robot was on my wishlist until a couple months ago, when I managed to buy it used in a garage sale. It is a very nice set overall with lots of fun parts to play with, and it was part of the "Spyrius" collection.


text:
What is this orange winged thing without studs?

It looks like some really old flying thing.

That piece is often used as a caterpillar track, or conveyor belt

It's hard to tell the colour in your photograph but it might be Medium Dark Flesh (a.k.a. medium nougat)
At the bottom of this page there are three sets which use this piece in that colour.
If you look carefully you should see the number "57518" shaped into the piece. Almost all Lego pieces have that a code on them that you can use to find them on sites like BrickSet or BrickLink.


text:
High Torque Subtractors
I would like to use a subtractor in my next RC LEGO tank, as it enables the vehicle to turn on the move, as opposed to stopping and then turning.
Unfortunately, the subtractors I have tested so far cannot withstand the torque of heavy vehicles, which either causes the subtractor to break apart, or the differentials/gears to grind.
Does anyone know any subtractor designs which are able to deal with high tension/torque/stress levels so that enormous vehicles can still use them? 3kg-5kg tolerance would be ideal.

It sounds like you need a stronger differential.
Might I suggest this design by Nazgarot:

If you make two, you can build a big and sturdy subtractor like this (probably customizing the gear ratios to your requirements, the right gearing could also remove the need for a PF switch):

Here's a video of it in action:

Very nice answer. You deserve to get the six-sided hat for this. :)

Excellent. I've come back to this question like 4 times hoping someone had finally figured out a decent answer.


text:
LEGO servo (88004) controlled by Raspberry Pi using python pigpio
I'm trying to control a LEGO servo (88004) using a Raspberry pi.
I would like to use pigpio to get a more precise control (no shaking, like with gpio PWM).
It's work with a regular servo (3 wires). It kinda works with the 88004, it buzz when I test it (both with c1 and c2), but I can't make it move :-( (see code below).
Anyone have a suggestions to this problem?
"Kinda" working python code.
import time
import pigpio

pi = pigpio.pi()

if not pi.connected:
   exit()

#sudo pigpiod -s8
c1 = 23
c2 = 24
pi.set_PWM_frequency(c1,1250)
pi.set_PWM_frequency(c2,1250)
print(pi.get_PWM_frequency(c1))

#use NAME (GPIO02 = 2)

while True:
   pi.set_servo_pulsewidth(c1, 0)
   pi.set_servo_pulsewidth(c2, 0)
   print "reset"

   try:

      pi.set_servo_pulsewidth(c1,2000)
      pi.set_servo_pulsewidth(c2,2500)
      print "c1"
      time.sleep(3)
      pi.set_servo_pulsewidth(c1,0)
      pi.set_servo_pulsewidth(c2,2500)
      print "c2"
      time.sleep(3)

   except KeyboardInterrupt:
      break

print("\nTidying up")

pi.set_servo_pulsewidth(c1, 0)
pi.set_servo_pulsewidth(c2, 0)

pi.stop()

I figured it out :-)
Using pi.set_PWM_dutycycle(c1, 128) # PWM 1/2 on makes it move.
In hindsight kinda obvious :)

Interesting to learn that power functions are controlled by PWM. I thought they were controlled analogously with a proportional voltage on the C1 and C2 pins


text:
How often does LEGO make colour substitutions?
I'm currently building the UCS Millennium Falcon and ran into a step where the instructions say to use two different shades of grey in the greebling, but the bags for that step only contain one single shade (but the right quantity).
This seems odd for such a prestige level release, so my question is whether this is "normal" or whether I should be asking for replacement parts.
To clarify - step 12, the round vents at the top back of the Falcon should contain black 1x2 grills, and dark gray 1x2 grills are used elsewhere on the paneling for detail.  The bags for this step contained no black grills - just the dark gray. Proper quantity, just wrong colour.
This isn't a case of the constructor misusing one part accidentally in place of another - the step is built with no missing parts, only a few random spares, it just has the wrong colour grills in the vents.

Which step are your referring to?

Like asked above, which step are you referring to? Those who have built the set already should be able to help you identify where the problem is.

@chicks apologies for late response - step 12, where the round vents in the rear of the Falcon should contain black grills, and the greebling elsewhere on the panels uses dark gray grills, but all the grills included in the steps bags are of the dark gray colour.  I have checked this against online reviews and builds, and it should definitely be black grills.  This isn't a case of "oops, used the wrong part elsewhere", hence why the existing answers are completely off the mark.

In my experience, this typically means you used the other colored part by accident somewhere else in the model, for example in a place where it is used on its own, and it was difficult to determine the exact color of the piece at that time. This happens a lot with colors like dark bluish gray, light bluish gray and pearl gray. You will need to go back through the manual to find previous places where this piece was used and confirm you used the right color.

Totally agree. I have built hundreds of sets and I can say that I have never found an error in the instructions or part counts even once. Not to say they don't exist, but the chance of builder error is just so much greater!

Thanks for the answer, but I'm talking about a large quantity - 30 to 60 pieces in a single step, not a single piece here or there.


text:
Why can't I install the NXT software on macOS High Sierra?
I just got an Mindstorms EV3 for Christmas, and learned that you can have the NXT communicate with the EV3 in the NXT software. I tried to install the NXT software on my Mac, but all that happens is a gray box pops up and stays there. I have macOS 10.13.2 High Sierra, and I'm wondering if that might be the problem because they don't update the NXT software anymore. Is there anything I can do to fix it?

Possible duplicate of What software should I install for NXT on OSX El 10.11.2 Capitan?, as the exact MacOS version doesn’t really matter here.

I'm not aware of any feature like this. Perhaps you heard that the NXT can be programmed using the EV3 software?

NXT software can't know anything about the EV3. The EV3 software can program the NXT.


text:
Where is this piece in LDD?
I'm looking for a certain piece for building my set in LDD. I've already looked through the extend theme, but I can't find it. If anyone knows where to find it, it would be super cool.

I assume you are talking about Lego Digital Designer since you mention "extend theme". Also assuming the design ID is correct (6163991) according to your screenshot and also the brickset database, searching for it in LDD in the search bar with updated bricks database and indeed in extended mode does not produce any results. I think it safe to conclude that the element is not present in the LDD bricks database. This happens, perhaps this will be corrected in a following database update but those only happen very sporadically anymore. Could be that the design ID is incorrect, which could be figured out by using the "Replace parts" service of lego, but this service isn't available this time of the year.

That's a rather new piece (from 2017), so it's really not surprising that it's not in LDD.

This piece is available in the 4.3.11th version of LDD in 10th set category


text:
Did these random parts come from a set? Dark grey, dark green, and black turntable

Here is a random half made LEGO creation which I bought within a large bag of LEGO. Do you have any ideas what it could be part of?
It is so frustrating trying to identify, but I'm excited at its prospects! If anyone has any tips on how I can figure this out myself that would be appreciated too.

I suggest you the following: choose a more or less rare part from the assembly and look for it in Bricklink, then check the "Item Appears In" sets. You'll probably find the desired set in a minute.

This time the part to search for that is more or less rare is the dark green slope with grille. I find that all bricks seem to appear in 76008 but the build is not the same.

This assembly comes from the Lego Set 76008 Iron Man vs. The Mandarin: Ultimate Showdown.
The assembly can be clearly identified on steps 14, 15 and 16 of the instructions available for example on BrickInstructions.com.
Here is how I proceeded to identify the set:

Spot any less common part (brick type & color), here the Slope 18 2
x 1 x 2/3 with 4 Slots in dark green color.
Use the BrickLink parts catalogue to look for all sets where that brick is used. Results here.
For each dark green entry, look at the set inventory and try to spot additional less common parts. In this case, I was trying to find the 4x4 black turntable plate.
Increase your level of confidence by matching a couple more bricks. The unique 2x4 red brick from the inventory was a good match as well.
Confirm the identification by finding the assembly by browsing the set
instructions.


text:
EV3 Home edition for Mac missing import block option
I'm running EV3 HE 1.3.1 on macOS Sierra 10.12.6, and I'm unable to import the ultrasonic sensor.
When I open tools -> import block -> browse, the open button is always disabled, it does not allow me to select any folder.
Is there a command line utility to import the blocks perhaps?
Stuck on this for a while now.

Do you have a project open when you are doing this? Many of the menu items are disabled unless you have a project open.

I do, and it's not the tools -> import that is disabled, I can actually get to the import screen, however the open dialog from mac shows greyed files not allowing me to select anything

It is working for me. Make sure your files have the .ev3b file extension. These are the only files that can be selected.

They have the proper extension, something is wrong with this install. I tried on a different mac machine and it's working. Not sure what else I can do. I'm asking support to see if they have any ideas (I have already uninstalled and installed it again with no luck) Thank you


text:
Why there are "unnecessary" bricks in 60080 LEGO City Space Port?
I previously asked about bricks in invisible places. Now I have second question. There are some bricks that are hardly visible, and in no way contribute to strength of a model. For example lime brick inside space shuttle or red bricks in the launch platform.
Note, as you can see in instructions step 14 - there is nothing on the other side of red brick. It connects only to the long gray technic brick.
Is there any purpose? Are these bricks there to symbolize something? What's the benefit that would justify cost?

Don't know about the lime brick, but the 2nd picture, it's a pin, it holds something together. The designers must have thought it DOES contribute to the structural strength... It's red because that's the common color for such pins...

@MichaelVerschaeve when I'll get back home, I will take picture from the bottom side. I'm quite certain that it does not hold anything together, and there were no bricks it could hold left.

I don't know the set, but in other sets parts like the lime tile, restrict movement of other parts.

@MichaelVerschaeve  https://www.lego.com/biassets/bi/6128942.pdf step 14 - red part is covered with nothing held by it under the plate.

@Henrik may be, but if you'll look at the instruction https://www.lego.com/biassets/bi/6158061.pdf step 5 you will see it is held tightly between 2 other brick, and lime brick is only on one side... I don't get it.

@Molot, I looked up the instructions as well in the mean time, you're correct the pins are not holding anything. My guess would then be that it is supposed to look like it is holding something, i.e. it is decorative... I disagree they are hardly visible, i can see them on the box art. I think they are to symbolize a nut or a stop.

@MichaelVerschaeve one  down (maybe), one to go ;)

The lime piece was probably to try to reduce the movement of the 'towbar' piece (the grey one in the middle), supposed to hold the shuttle on the booster. Maybe at one point during the design the towbar wasnt tightly centered by the two yellow pieces and that centering was done by two pieces like the lime things, but then forgotten to be removed afterwards. The instructions are susceptible to being 'frozen' while not in an optimal state for economical/deadline reasons, so don't look at the instructions as an optimum, but as a starting point for your creativity

@rienafairefr I don't let rules stop me, thank you :D I just assumed there might be something I'm missing. You are probably right I forgot for a moment that Lego sets are just products with lifestyle. If you would post it as an answer, I'll +1.

I have always assumed that the pieces in question were place holders to simplify assembly.  Their bright color and location help insure proper alignment for less experienced builders. One must realize that the set is marketed to 6-12 year old's. I imagine their testing has proven that such aides are very useful for younger builders.


text:
Can anyone tell me what part or set this round Technic piece goes to?
I bought a large lot of LEGO and need help identifying this piece and or its set.

That's not the best picture in the world, but it appears to be a Wheel 31mm D. x 15mm Technic, either dark red or reddish-brown.  The dark red variation has appeared in a half-dozen Star Wars sets and two other sets, while the reddish-brown version has appeared in just one set.


text:
How do I sell complete LEGO sets still assembled?
I have several complete items I want to sell. I have the instruction manuals but no boxes. They are still together. They include the old Death Star, and some other Star Wars, the complete Lone Ranger set and more.
How do I do this?

Hi and welcome to Brick SE. Have you tried to use the seach function? "sell LEGO" yields some interesting hints about how sell your sets. Ebay or Bricklink are common answers.

You can list the on BrickLink as complete, used, no box. Those are options you can select as you list each set. You can also list them on eBay, and just put in the description that the sets are without box, but with instructions and all the pieces included. This is a normal and accepted way of selling LEGO sets.


text:
Can you identify this inverted slope piece?
Need help identifying a piece, please.

This is a Mega Construx Slope 2x2x4 Inverted ( MA15488 )
In Black it appears in Stage Fright Monster High (2016):

It could also be from another set.

Thank you for your help!

@Edward Please do not add a comment on an answer to say "Thank you", but accept the answer as outlined here in the help center.


text:
What's the thickness of Playtive Clippys baseplates?
It appears Lidl's Playtive Clippys clone brand has now added baseplates to their portfolio:
https://www.lidl.de/p/playtive-clippys-bauplatten-6-teilig/p100379313
Are these comparable in thickness to LEGO's baseplates (the ones that LEGO is phasing out in favour of regular plates and the new road system)?

Auto-translate assures me they're "Compatible with all commercially available clamping bricks" I'll have to keep my eye out here in the UK if they ever arrive

@Zhaph-BenDuguid: Yes, that is what the German text says. And it's true, my children already have several Clippys sets and they combine flawlessly with LEGO bricks.


text:
Help identify this 1980's NON-LEGO NON-Duplo but larger than average brick?
The set is a castle tower, no box, nothing on the bricks but they're definitely larger than normal LEGO and much smaller than Duplo, the color is kind of "marbled."

Can you please add a photograph (or two) of your castle tower? It would help to tell if it's in fact Exín or not.

With only that information, I'll make a wild guess and say EXÍN Castillos.
EXÍN Castillos was a Spain-made brick system designed for castles, with castle-specific parts (roofs, arrow slits, battlements). Most of the bricks had few studs (sets had lots of 1x2 bricks for the walls, and 3x3 round bricks for the towers) and the studs were quite flat relative to the height of the bricks. Most bricks had indeed a "marble" texture to them.

At the time of this writing, it's possible to see most of their old catalog at http://eolo.cps.unizar.es/exincastillos/ .
There's also a modern (2014) revival of the system - the folks at https://ngcastillos.com/ offer newly designed sets, as well as second-hand parts.
Note the marbled appearance of the plastic and the shallow studs:

Seeing that marbled plastic is very convincing.  Bravo.

This product has a box. OP specified "no box."

@HelloGoodbye I interpret that as the OP saying they no longer have any box to help identify the set, rather than "this product does not come in a box".

Wow that's it!!! Thank you, amazing.

@HelloGoodbye - It seems vanishingly unlikely that a branded product wouldn't come in a box :-)

@JeffBowman Aaaah! I think you're right :)


text:
Mindstorms EV3 brick doesn't start up
When attempting to start your Mindstorms EV3 brick, the light turns red briefly and then turns amber (yellow or orange?) and stays that way indefinitely. The screen does not turn on at all. Any ideas on how to correct this issue?

If you hold down the right button while powering on the EV3, does it go into update mode (screen will say "updating...")?

No. I just tried it. It behaves exactly the same. The light goes red briefly and then changes color and the screen stays off.

Are the batteries dead?

The batteries are not dead. Six fresh, new AA batteries.

If any sensors or motors are plugged in, I would try unplugging them.
If that doesn't work either, I would contact LEGO customer support.


text:
What set do these four bags of LEGO pieces belong to?
Which set do these bags of LEGO pieces belong to?
Can anyone help identify them?

This question is similar to: How can I identify a set based on one or more original sealed bags?. If you believe it’s different, please edit the question, make it clear how it’s different and/or how the answers on that question are not helpful for your problem.

These are certainly not from one set - as it turns out, they are four bags from at least five different sets.
The upper left bag is from 70146 Flying Phoenix Fire Temple, based on these parts.
The upper right bag is from 80011 Red Son's Inferno Truck, based on these parts.
The lower left bag is from 41179 Queen Dragon's Rescue, based on these parts.
The lower right bag is a mix with parts from 70612 Green Ninja Mech Dragon, based on the Master Wu minifigure and the sand green Hero Factory Foot. It seems to be taped together because there is also 49193 (Minifigure Cape Cloth, Dementor Style)


text:
Parts similar to 2x4 hinge plate
I can't find a similar Lego piece. It should be like in the photo, only solid and thicker, I remember I had several of these yellow ones, but I lost them.
https://www.ebay.pl/itm/372966718634

I think you're looking for part 3149c01 "Hinge plate 2 x 4":

It appeared in yellow in several sets during the 1970s.
Note that while this has solid plates (instead of plates with technic holes), it is as thick as the modern counterpart: 2 plates.

And to add: Very prone to braking so finding good ones second hand can be tricky. There is also a version with a 2x8 as the bottom plate and 2x4 for the top. Comes in the classic base colors: yellow, red, blue, grey, white and black. Yellow and red are most common, followed by grey. I have never seen a blue or black one but apparently they do exist.


text:
How is this setup created?
From
https://www.newelementary.com/2018/10/lego-35787-tile-modified-2x2-triangular-45-cut.html
midpage there is this setup:

Can anyone provide more details how the parts are connected?
Preferably so it could be recreated in bricklink studio.

From the article, the grey triangle featured in the middle is Road sign 2x2 triangle with clip. I figured this information might help someone figure out what it looks like inside.

I think Bar 1L with Angled Hollow Stud is going to be involved here. Don't have too many bricks now to build anything reasonable, but I had this piece and it can give the right angle for LBG road sign triangle.

As that roadsign has a clip (it's in the bricklink name) and not an antistud, I wouldn't think that part had any place in there.

I have been doing a few experiments with part 65578 "Bar 1L with Ahgled Hollow Stud. Using one of them at a distance of four plates from one of the triangular tiles (using SNOT 180° if needed) would work:

Note how the fit is not perfect - in the setup displayed above, the roadsign has one side touching the top tile, but the fit to the side tiles is angled. And if you look closely to the reference image, you'll notice that the perfectly-fitted side is the right-sided tile.
Replicating the whole original setup hints that the bar with stud may be held just by gravity, with no actual connection and no clutch at all:

Note how the stud from the bar fits snugly along the tiles.
However, I suspect that this is not the technique used. Note how, in the reference photograph, we can see through the gap between the roadsign and the top triangular tile; in my CAD design the bar with stud blocks that gap.  There might be some other part (a minifig accessory, perhaps?) in play.
I suggest experimenting with a sausage instead. Its curvature should allow to tweak the angle of the roadsign, and so would make an even better fit.


text:
What set are these blue, purple, and green pieces from?

I found a bag of LEGO bricks and I want to know from what set this is.
I tried searching on brickset.com. But they can't find the set.
It contains:

Plate round 6x6 medium azure 11213
Plate 6 x 12 green 4541414
brick 2x4 purple (2 pieces)
flower 4143562 (2 pieces)

I hope you can help me.

thank you I will try then website now!

Hi Coolen and welcome to Bricks.SE! Let us know if you have any issues with the site, we're here to help if you get stuck.

this refers to set "10692-1" on my BL results.


text:
What are the dimensions of LEGO spike motor?
Any ideas on what the dimensions are of this motor,
and the holes and space between them?

Do read https://bricks.stackexchange.com/q/288/13403 - all lengths can be derived from those. e.g. the diameter of a stud (or a technic hole) is 4.8mm, and the distance between studs is (or between technic holes) is 8mm.

SPIKE M:  2.38 x 3.7 x 7.88 cm
SPIKE L: 8 x 4 x 4 cm

Thanks,what are the diameter of the holes and space between them?

@AbdElhaleem, well dimensions are there, so it is easy to do the math if you have any LEGO bricks on hand. Diameter - one stud. Distance - 2 bricks (center to center), 3 bricks (edge to edge).

ok, i used BL studio for later for correct dimetions

What does Spike L motor has to do with regards to OP's question? The M motor is clearly higher than 3 studs - rotating part is not part of motor's dimensions?

the rotating part is one stud height.

The rotating piece is still part of a motor and its dimensions, right?

yep. i do a quick update to this answer :)

Well, I don't have any parts in hands, so I need to know the dimensions in mm, sorry for asking a lot

OK, 8 mm is 1 stud.

Did you measure your own motors to get these values? Or did you find them somewhere?

I used BrickLink.com

There is a place for improvement. Why are there two motos listed? Which one of them is on OP's picture? Why dimensions for each motor are provided in different units?